Growing
How To Grow Lupins - Traditional, Timeless Classics With Towering Spires
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Lupin Varieties How To Grow Lupins Lupin Care Propagation Common Problems References Say hello to what may be one of the most easily recognisable plants in the UK. Lupins are traditional, timeless classics that have been a firm favourite among British gardeners for over a century. These striking, stately plants, characterised by their towering spires, come in every imaginable colour – as well as a range of sizes – making them a real statement in any garden. Overview Botanical Name Lupinus Common Name(s) Lupins Plant Type Perennial / Annual Flower Native Area Americas, North Africa, Mediterranean Hardiness Rating H5 Foliage Palmate leaves Flowers Colourful, pea-like flowers When To Sow February, March, April, May Flowering Months June, July, August When To Prune July, August The name means “wolf” in Latin, because in times gone by it was believed that Lupins “wolfed” minerals and nutrients from the soil.1 And happily, it’s since been discovered that this myth bears no truth. In fact, Lupins aid soil by boosting nitrogen levels, and as a result, they’re commonly referred to as a “green manure” by gardeners.2 The hardy, boastful Lupinus – the Latin name for the plant – is a member of the pea family, although you’d be forgiven for not guessing that when you look at the flower. It’s prolific, too: there are over 200 species worldwide, some of which grow to a whopping five feet tall when in flower.3 Lupin Varieties Most varieties of Lupin are perennial, although this is not universally the case. In this guide we refer exclusively to the perennial member of the Lupin family. ‘Towering Inferno’ The name really says it all! This variety grows up to 90cm tall, and boasts vigorous, flaming orange bells, making it a bold statement in any garden. Flowering in summer and with gorgeous mid-bright green leaves, this plant is sure to make your garden pop. ‘Polar Princess’ While this might sound more like a character from a Disney film than a garden plant, this variety is worth getting to know. This radiant Lupin bears pure white, delicately scented flowers that bring a royal flourish to any flower bed. Blooming late into summer this variety epitomises country cottage living. ‘Manhattan Lights’ Another early-season variety, this showy Lupin is adorned by sweetly scented purple and yellow flowers. Gracing the garden from late spring to early summer, its gorgeous, decadent colours will be the envy of all your neighbours. ‘Dwarf Pink Fairy’ (Annual) With its short stature, this annual Lupin is perfect for garden borders. A soft pink, free-flowering variety that blooms all the way from early June to late August. It has lovely green, bushy foliage and in the evenings its delightful, sweet-pea scent will linger in the air. How To Grow Lupins Now you’ve seen just how varied and beautiful Lupins can be, you’re probably keen to get them going in your garden. This plant really is a vital ingredient for the quintessential British garden, so thankfully they are fairly easy to grow. These hardy plants are also inexpensive and wonderfully reliable. Here’s how to bring plant them out. Soil Requirements Lupins do not grow well in clay or chalky soil – they much prefer soil that is neutral to slightly acidic. Moist, well-drained soil is recommended as the optimum, but they will tolerate most garden conditions. Water-logged soil, however, is unsuitable and will most likely lead to rot. Where To Grow Lupins are sun worshipers, but they also enjoy cool soil. Positioning newly planted flowers where they will receive full sun in the morning and shade in the afternoon will give them the best of both worlds, and help them to survive the summer heat. Don’t plant in full shade: they won’t thrive. This plant likes a bit of space to thrive and lends itself well to being grown in a garden border more than a narrow flower bed. We don’t recommend planting Lupins in containers where possible, because this leads to less strong growth and can leave them more susceptible to aphids (more on these fellas later). Growing From Seed Lupins do not come true to seed, so if you plant seeds from a packet your lupins are likely to grow in a range of colours. We advise soaking the seed the night before planting to encourage germination. For the best chance of survival, sow in a seed tray from February to September, and keep this in a greenhouse or on a windowsill. Leave them until they have four leaves, then plant out into the garden. Once planted, water them once then leave them to find water on their own. They prefer to be kept just below room temperature (15-20°C) and, when conditions are correct, will sprout about two weeks from planting. Growing From Cuttings Lupins grown from cuttings will be the same as their parent plants, so if you want a particular variety this is the only way to go. If you’re taking a cutting, aim for a basal cutting (shoots of around 10cm growing near the base) taken in March or April. This plant puts out a strong system of roots, so for the best prospects, it’s worth planting them out while they’re as young as possible. They’re quite hardy and can withstand growing outside right away. “For the best cutting compost, I add one-part perlite to two-parts fine peat-free compost (normally compost sweepings from my potting shed floor),” shares Dan Ori, a Master Horticulturist. Planting Although there is some leeway with when to plant (we mentioned February to September for sowing earlier), Lupins tend to do best when sown in early March, hardened off in late April and planted out in early May. If you are harvesting seeds, this should be done in late summer, around early August. Before sowing, seeds can be soaked for 24 hours in a small amount of water. Though this isn’t necessary, it can help them to start growing more quickly. Lupin Care Lupins are diligent food-finders and don’t need any special feed. In fact, adding high-nitrogen plant feed can make them grow too much, and increase the risk of attracting the aphids we mentioned earlier. In winter, Lupin care is just a case of doing… nothing! They will die back, then new shoots will appear in spring with no intervention required. This really is a hardy and self-sufficient plant – perhaps one of the reasons it’s become such a staple in British gardens. Pruning This plant has a longer recovery time than some others, so we advise against chopping back too hard after flowering. It is important to deadhead a well-flowering Lupin, however, as growing lots of seeds will drain energy and vitality from the parent plant. Propagation Most Lupins have a life cycle of six to ten years, depending on growing conditions. So the time may very well come when you need to propagate your existing plants to ensure their continued presence in your garden. Thankfully, this type of plant can grow successfully from cuttings (see above) and, if you have a delicate hand, through division. Dividing Division is a bit harder, and is not necessarily recommended unless you are a very experienced gardener. Because of the structure of their roots, Lupins are prone to damage by division. Instead, we recommend growing a new plant from seed or cutting is advised for the best likelihood of a healthy plant. Common Problems Lupins are fairly hardy, but there are a few things to keep your eyes peeled for. Slugs & Snails The perpetual bane of any gardener’s life, Lupins are not spared from the incessant attention of these garden pests. A humane way to keep slugs and snails away is to create a garlic spray, and coat the leaves of your Lupin. “I was very dubious about the use of garlic sprays to deter slugs and snails, but some convincing studies have shown it is effective if you apply it regularly,” says Dan. “Knowing how regularly is a matter of trial and error, but those who have had success often apply a spray when they struggle to smell the garlic on the plant.” Young plants are especially prone to getting munched, so remain especially vigilant for the first couple of years. Giant Lupin Aphids Another hungry pest, aphids are keen to get their teeth into your Lupins. Once a colony takes hold of a plant they can cause it to wilt, they can be hard to dislodge. This is what you’re looking for: small, white aphids that swarm the stem of the plant. Gently rubbing leaves to remove them – or spraying with a stream of water that’s not too powerful – can do the trick, as can a variety of pesticides. Personally we recommend the former. Lupin Anthracnose While slugs and aphids are creatures, anthracnose is a fungal disease that can wreak havoc with your Lupins. It is not usually fatal but can cause a lot of damage from dieback. Dead, brown areas, slimy orange spores, and coiled leaves are telltale symptoms of anthracnose. Removing and destroying damaged leaves, and planting your Lupins so that air can flow freely around them are two ways of controlling and preventing this condition. Brown Spot This creatively named condition gives Lupins – you guessed it – brown spots. It’s caused by spores in the soil your plant is growing in, so moving the plant is the best way to prevent further damage. Once you’ve moved it, avoid planting any other Lupins in that spot for a few years – this will give the spores a chance to die off. Lupins have been popular in British gardens for generations, and with good reason. They’re hardy, versatile, varied, and, almost universally, beautiful. They’re easy to look after, resistant to weather, and although threatened by a few diseases and pests, many plants will live to maturity with little issue. References 1. Definition of lupine. (2023). In Merriam-Webster Dictionary. Retrieved March 21, 2023, from https://www.merriam-webster.com/dictionary/lupine 2. Maron, J., & Connors, P. (1996). A native nitrogen-fixing shrub facilitates weed invasion. Oecologia, 105(3), 302–312. https://doi.org/10.1007/bf00328732 3. Lupines (Genus Lupinus). (n.d.). iNaturalist. Retrieved March 21, 2023, from https://www.inaturalist.org/taxa/47121-Lupinus
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Plant Hypericum ‘St. John's Wort’ At Any Time Of Year - Then Follow These Instructions
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Habitat & Growing Conditions How To Grow St. John’s Wort Hypericum Care Propagation References St. John’s Wort is a herbaceous perennial showcasing paired green leaves and attractive, star-shaped flowers in various shades of yellow, that will brighten up even the dreariest of gardens. It is a plant that grows easily in the UK climate and can thrive in all soil types. You should, however, air on the side of caution if you plan to add it to your garden, as in many local areas it is classified as a noxious weed.1 If that doesn’t put you off, and you’re still keen to bring St. John’s Wort into your garden, read on for our best care and growing tips, to find out everything you need to know about this bright and widespread wonder plant. Overview Botanical Name Hypericum perforatum Common Name(s) St John’s Wort Plant Type Perennial Flower Native Area Europe, North Africa, South-West Asia Hardiness Rating H6 Foliage Small, ovate leaves, deciduous Flowers Star-shaped yellow flowers When To Sow March, April Flowering Months June, July, August When To Prune March Hypericum ‘St John’s Wort’ is a member of the Hypericaceae family, and is found in most parts of the world, including Europe, North and South America, Australia and Asia.2 Due to its widespread nature, it is difficult to pin down exactly where it originated. According to Kew, the variation Hypericum perforatum is thought to come from Europe, North Africa and Asia.3 There are thought to be around 400 different varieties of Hypericum, but it’s H. perforatum that is known as common St. John’s Wort.4 Other names for this popular variety include ‘Herb John’, ‘Devil Chaser’, ‘Devil’s Flight’ and ‘God’s Wonder Plant’. It is also sometimes called ‘St. Columba’s Flower’. When fully grown, H. perforatum reaches 0.5-1m in height, and a spread of up to 0.5m (it can take up to 5 years to reach this point). It has reddish, woody stems and yellow-green leaves with translucent dots that make the leaves appear perforated and inspire its name. In early summer, it produces bright yellow, star-shaped blooms of up to 2.5cm in diameter. Habitat & Growing Conditions Hypericum ‘St John’s Wort’ is thought to be native to Europe and Asia, but has spread and now grows in many other parts of the world, including North and South America, Australia and New Zealand. It can thrive in a variety of climates, including those with summer or winter-dominant rainfall. It generally grows in fields and pastures. How To Grow St. John’s Wort The best time to plant Hypericum ‘St. John’s Wort’ is in mid-spring, March to April, or in the autumn, in September or October. However, you can plant at any time of the year, providing the soil is not frozen. One of the best (and most common varieties) of St. John’s Wort to grow in the UK is H. x hidcoteense ‘Hidcote’. This variety produces numerous bright yellow flowers throughout July and August and remains mostly evergreen over the winter. It typically grows to 1.2m tall, and can also make an attractive hedging plant. Planting To plant a Hypericum, you should find a partially shaded spot in your garden and dig a hole double the size of the plant’s root ball. Add the plant, along with some organic fertiliser, and re-fill the hole with soil – water the ground thoroughly. Container Growing St. John’s Wort will adapt to most growing conditions, and it is possible to grow it in a container – although this does not represent its ideal environment. Make sure your container has good drainage, and keep the soil moist. Hypericum Care St. John’s Wort is a very hardy plant that is easy to grow in the UK and requires next to no maintenance once established. H. x hidcoteense ‘Hidcote’ It can thrive in sunny or shaded conditions, sheltered or exposed – the ideal spot for it is probably one with partial shade. Soil It will grow in most soil types, including clay, chalk and sandy, and all pHs, as long as the soil is moist and has good drainage. The plant is therefore a perfect choice for any area of the garden and makes a particularly great addition to a riverbank, border or wildflower area. You should plant your Hypericum in spring or autumn (providing the ground isn’t frozen), and water well. Watering & Feeding Once established, Hypericum requires very little ongoing care, but you should water as required during the growing period, or in cases of extreme drought. You can also add a fertiliser twice a year for the first 5 years, to help it establish. Propagation Hypericum can be propagated by seed, division, or by taking softwood cuttings. By Seed To propagate by seed, sow seeds any time from mid-spring to early autumn. Make sure the bed is well-dug and weed-free, and the surface soil is crumbly in texture. Space the seeds around 0.5m apart, depending on the variety. Keep the soil moist during the growing period. By Division To propagate Hypericum by division, you should act in spring or autumn, when the plant isn’t in active growth. Lift the existing plant gently out of the ground, and divide the root ball into two. Re-plant the divisions immediately, and water well. This is an easy way of propagating Hypericum. By Softwood Cuttings If you want to take softwood cuttings, the best time to do this is in July and August, when the plant is in full bloom. To take your cuttings, you should look for new growth and non-flowering shoots that will root more easily. Take 10cm cuttings, starting from just above a bud. Once you have your cutting, remove lower leaves and dip the bottom in a rooting hormone. Plant your cuttings in a pot with compost and water them, then cover with a plastic bag and place them somewhere warm. Keep the soil moist, and after around 10 weeks, your cuttings should be rooted and ready to pot individually. References 1. Common St. Johnswort identification and control: Hypericum perforatum. (2018, September 18). King County. Retrieved March 20, 2023, from https://kingcounty.gov/services/environment/animals-and-plants/noxious-weeds/weed-identification/st-johns-wort.aspx 2. Hanson, S. (2013, January 9). Hypericaceae – St John’s wort family. Whiteknights Biodiversity. Retrieved March 20, 2023, from https://blogs.reading.ac.uk/whiteknightsbiodiversity/2013/01/09/hypericaceae-st-johns-wort-family/ 3. Hypericum perforatum. (n.d.). Kew Royal Botanic Gardens. Retrieved March 20, 2023, from https://powo.science.kew.org/taxon/urn:lsid:ipni.org:names:433719-1 4. Hypericum perforatum. (n.d.-b). North Carolina Extension Gardener Plant Toolbox. Retrieved March 20, 2023, from https://plants.ces.ncsu.edu/plants/hypericum-perforatum/
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How To Grow Rudbeckia 'Black Eyed Susan' For Abundant, Long-Lasting And Reliable Flowers
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Plant Care Habitat & Growing Conditions Container Growing How To Grow Rudbeckia References Rudbeckia, commonly known as ‘Black Eyed Susan’ is a plant you have probably seen before, although you may not have known it by name. Its familiarity is down to the fact that this lovely sunshine yellow bright flower is commonly found growing wild in fields and meadows throughout the UK and USA. It is a native species of North America and, you possibly won’t be surprised to hear, a fully-paid up member of the sunflower family.1 “Rudbeckia tops the list of my favourite plants for its abundant, long-lasting and hugely reliable flowers, which open like small sunflowers in a domed mass,” says Matt Collins, a Garden Writer. “Provided it gets a good dose of sunshine, it’s just the most rewarding and unfussy of plants, with long-stemmed blooms that also make fantastic cut flowers.” This pretty daisy-like bloom with its yellow petals and dark inner circle (hence the name) is actually a pretty powerful plant. So powerful, in fact, that it will tend to eventually outgrow most other plants in its wake. Butterflies and bees use it for nectar – other garden animals including birds also feed on the seed heads. This is another reason why the plant is so prevalent – the birds and insects spread them as they fly back to their nest (with the seeds as food). “It’s a plant that a lot of people don’t love, but the Rudbeckia genus is one of my favourite species of plant,” shares Lee Burkhill, the Garden Ninja. “It flowers in late summer with typical daisy flowers that are bright and light up a garden. People love it or hate it because its colours are so intense. “It will pretty much tolerate every soil, so for new gardeners, it is great.” Overview Botanical Name Rudbeckia Common Name(s) Black Eyed Susan, Coneflower Plant Type Perennial Flower / Annual Flower Native Area North America Hardiness Rating Mostly H4-H6 Foliage Herbaceous, simple or pinnately divided leaves Flowers Daisy-like flowers, yellow for perennial types, other colours for annuals and biennials Flowering Months June, July, August, September Rudbeckia isn’t just grown wild, of course; you will also find it in gardens up and down the country where it is often used for creating colourful and attractive borders. In addition, its cheerfully bright blooms are also a favourite of many high-street florists. “I love to photograph Rudbeckias, which often have contrasting velvety textures that make you want to touch them,” shares award-winning Garden Photographer Molly Hollman. With both summer annual and perennial varieties, Rudbeckia comes in a number of different types and beautiful jewel-like colours. You will certainly find blooms appearing in shades associated with an Indian Summer, such as gold, orange, rust and yellow. ‘Chocolate Orange’ New hybrid versions are equally as colourful and arresting with their shades of emerald green and bright pink. In essence, Rudbeckia is a very pretty flower which is colourful, easy to grow and low-maintenance. The plant self-propagates so even if you leave it be, chances are it would still bloom prolifically in your garden. ‘Cherokee Sunset’ As a result, it is loved by the majority of gardeners, both amateurs and experienced types on both sides of the Atlantic. “Perennial Rudebckias are a mainstay of herbaceous borders and are particularly popular in prairie style and matrix planting with grasses,” shares Colin Skelly, a Horticultural Consultant. “They are well suited to naturalistic planting, and the range of sizes and colours makes them popular for other styles of planting too. “Rudbeckia is prone to slugs and snails when a young plant, but is more robust when established.” Plant Care Although Rudbeckia is capable of withstanding drought conditions, the flowers will grow better if they are watered when necessary. In other words, it is really not a good idea to let them dry out – not, that is, if you want to see them flourishing and brightening up your borders. ‘Toto’ Dividing older plants doesn’t just ensure you have healthier blooms, but that there isn’t too much spreading through self-seeding. Habitat & Growing Conditions Rudbeckia should always be planted in the sunniest spot in your garden. Or, if that’s not available then in a spot that has some shade, but also access to the sun at times. The soil is important too; preferably moist but not susceptible to becoming waterlogged following periods of intense rain. Heavier soil can be used, provided you surround the plant’s roots with plenty of good compost. Container Growing Make sure your container pot is at least 45cm wide and 30cm deep. It should also have plenty of decent-sized drainage holes at the bottom. This will ensure that the soil will remain moist but not waterlogged (as this would kill-off the plant). Any type of decent multipurpose compost is fine. Feed after two weeks then every three to four weeks after this. Incidentally, one of the best varieties of Rudbeckia to grow in containers is ‘Toto’, the dwarf version, since it doesn’t need as much room as the others. How To Grow Rudbeckia Start growing the seeds in a greenhouse or at least indoors, during the months of February, March and April. R. ‘Irish Eyes’ Expect to wait up to three weeks for them to germinate. Then, as they grow either thin them out to around 30cm space in between or put them into pots. Finally, move them into their final positions when the root balls are strong and large enough to transfer. If you’ve tried both methods of growing (directly planting into the soil and transplanting), then you have probably noticed that directly sown seeds will often not flower until their second year, while transplanted rootballs will bloom within the first 12 months. References 1. Rudbeckia. (n.d.). Kew Royal Botanic Gardens. Retrieved March 23, 2023, from https://powo.science.kew.org/taxon/urn:lsid:ipni.org:names:329766-2
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How To Grow Penstemon Including Common Varieties And Problems To Watch Out For
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Habitat & Growing Conditions Common Varieties How To Grow Penstemon Plant Care Common Problems References Penstemon are a popular perennial that will bring unique beauty to your garden and are fairly hardy, typically being able to cope in all but the harshest of UK gardens. They come in many varieties and provide you with a way to add great colour and interest to your garden. They’re perfect for planting in flowerbeds as well as containers and can cope very well with the harsh winter weather. Penstemon might not be native to the UK, but you can very easily introduce them in your garden and expect them to last for many years. “There are some tender forms of annual or biennial Penstemon, so it is always worth checking the hardiness of the species before buying,” says Master Horticulturist Dan Ori. Overview Botanical Name Penstemon Plant Type Perennial Flower Native Area North America Hardiness Rating H3/H4 Foliage Deciduous or evergreen with simple, narrow leaves Flowers Bell or funnel-shaped flowers in various shades When To Sow March, April, May Flowering Months June, July, August, September When To Prune September, October, November The term ‘Penstemon’ was first established in 1748 by scientist, John Mitchell.1 Up until the early 1800s, there were very few recognised species of penstemon, but this changed considerably as the century went on, with many expeditions across the States and Mexico unearthing new findings. P. x mexicali ‘Red Rocks’ Today, according to Oxford University, there are some 280 species in the genus.2 Although penstemon plants are native to North America, they are now popular in many parts of the world thanks to their great variety of colours and hardiness.3 Habitat & Growing Conditions Most species of the ‘Beardtongue’ family are native to North America. Given the vast size of the continent, penstemon are acclimatised to survive in a variety of climates and adapt to their environment very well. They can be found growing in very dry climates, such as the Utah desert, as well as more varied climates throughout the United States. Common Varieties Below are some of the most popular varieties of penstemon plants: ‘Husker Red’ Also known as ‘Foxglove beardtongue’, this variety is very popular with growers, due to its distinctive red foliage and the fact that it flowers well year after year. ‘Burgundy’ Burgundy is another popular variety of penstemon, and with its deep purple flowers, it makes an excellent cut plant. If you’re growing this variety it’s a good idea to propagate it in late autumn, since it doesn’t always survive the winter. ‘Apple Blossom’ This quick-growing variety has white and pink flowers and is excellent for growing in flowerbeds as well as using as a cut flower. ‘Alice Hindley’ These blue and purple penstemon not only look great but are a very practical variety to grow in your garden, since they cope with the winter extremely well. ‘Evelyn’ Evelyn are a particularly appealing variety, due to their bright flowers and plentiful foliage. Although they are compact, they can grow up to 50cm high. How To Grow Penstemon It’s usually not hard to find penstemon plants and seeds – whether buying online or from your local garden centre. Penstemon is quite easy to propagate, whether you choose to do it by division, seed or cuttings. Let’s look at propagating using cuttings first since this is generally the best method. Using Cuttings You can take cuttings from a plant at any time during the growing season, though the height of summer around June / July would usually be the best time. To get started you should take some cuttings from stems that aren’t flowering and put them in a small seed tray that’s filled with good-quality compost. Make sure you water them well after planting. You should trim any cuttings you use until they’re roughly 4-5 inches long and be sure to trim any leaves at the top and sides to reduce water requirements and moisture loss. P. frutescens Everything being well, the cuttings should take root and start growing. Depending on how many cuttings you use and the size of your seed tray, you might want to move them into their own individual pots. In any case, you should keep them away from the frost over the winter and plant them during the following spring. Division Lastly is propagating by division. To do this you simply dig up a plant, divide it carefully and then pot the divided sections separately. Again, spring would be the best time to do this. Planting Before planting, you should think about the best spot in your garden to grow these plants. Although they’re able to withstand the cold very well, many types of penstemon are sun-loving, so it’s a good idea to plant them in a spot where they’ll get plenty of exposure to sunlight. When planting, it’s a good idea to use some organic mulch as well as a fertiliser to ensure the plants take well. The best time to plant penstemons would be in spring or early summer. This will ensure they have plenty of time to get established before the cold weather starts to arrive in autumn and winter. Plant Care Growing your own penstemons isn’t too complicated, but it’s still worth knowing the best way to go about it if you want your plants to thrive. Below are all the main aspects of growing penstemons in your garden. Water Requirements Generally, watering isn’t too much of a concern with penstemons, since they love the sun and can cope with dry conditions very well. You should ensure that the soil you plant them in isn’t waterlogged and the only time you’ll really need to water them is during prolonged dry spells and after first planting. Winter Care Penstemons can generally cope with the cold and frost over the winter, but this isn’t the case 100% of the time. Certain varieties are not able to cope as well as others, so to be safe you should add a layer of mulch in the autumn to help protect the roots from getting damaged. Common Problems There are a few ways to prevent common penstemon issues. Leaf diseases are often spread when it’s cold and wet, so anything you can do to keep your plants dry during these times will help. Using mulch, for example, will help to prevent rain from splashing up on your plants. Another good tip is when you’re watering your plants, be sure to be careful not to get water on their leaves; you should also be sure to remove any dead foliage you find on the ground. Proper spacing will help to ensure that your plants get enough air and circulation too. Although penstemons are very hardy and generally resistant to diseases and pests, they can still develop certain problems. Below are some of the most common ones, including how to deal with them. Powdery Mildew “It is very common to find a white dusty coating of Penstemon leaves, which is a fungal problem called powdery mildew,” says Dan. “This mildew will rarely kill an established plant but does look unattractive and does impact plant health. “You can apply fungicides, but for small outbreaks, I would advise increasing airflow but tidying around the plant removing some of the worst affected leaves. “As a prevention of sorts, you can plant in a free-draining spot with good airflow, taking care to water the soil and not the leaves.’ Rust Rust is a form of common fungal disease that can be spotted when see the formation of yellow spots on top of a plant’s leaves. Rust often appears during humid weather and a good preventative measure to take is applying fungicidal soap in early spring. In addition to this, you should also remove any infected leaves and if you notice any plants that are severely infected by rust, then you should remove them immediately since it can very easily spread. Botrytis Leaf Mould Another fungal disease – Botrytis leaf mould causes brown spots to appear on infected leaves. An organic fungicide may be successful at treating infected plants, but if you notice any plants that are severely infected and look like they’re beyond saving, then you’re best removing them completely. References 1. Don, M. (1999b, June 20). Tubular belles. The Guardian. Retrieved March 22, 2023, from https://www.theguardian.com/lifeandstyle/1999/jun/20/gardens 2. Harris, S. (n.d.-a). Penstemon species. Oxford University Plants. Retrieved March 22, 2023, from https://herbaria.plants.ox.ac.uk/bol/plants400/Profiles/op/Penstemon 3. Penstemon barbatus. (n.d.). Missouri Botanical Garden. Retrieved March 22, 2023, from https://www.missouribotanicalgarden.org/PlantFinder/PlantFinderDetails.aspx?taxonid=287041
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Add Depth And Texture By Growing Astilbe 'False Goats Beard' In Your Garden
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Why Grow Astilbe? Habitat & Growing Conditions How To Grow Astilbe Plant Care & Growing Tips Sunlight Soil Requirements Watering & Feeding Common Problems References The Astilbe plant is a herbaceous perennial, characterised by its divided leaves and erect feathery plumes of tiny flowers in white, pink or red during the summer season. Some varieties of Astilbe are also known as ‘False goat’s beard’ – for example Astilbe ‘Fanal’ x arendsii, which has serrated, dark green foliage and deep red-coloured flowers. This fluffy rhizomatous plant will not only add colour to your garden, but also depth and texture, as a result of the unusually shaped plumes. Overview Botanical Name Astilbe Common Name(s) False Goat’s Beard Plant Type Herbaceous Perennial Native Area North America and Asia Hardiness Rating H7 Foliage Ternately divided leaves Flowers Erect plumes of tiny white, pink or purple flowers When To Sow March, April, May Flowering Months June, July, August When To Propagate December to April by division As a very hardy plant, Astilbe grows well in a UK climate and I find it to be an ideal choice for areas where less tolerant plants might struggle – such as shaded locations or waterlogged soils. The fern-like appearance of the plumes looks particularly great in garden borders, alongside grasses and ferns. If you’re considering adding Astilbe to your plant collection, read on for our full care and growing guide, and discover the truth about what it takes to grow False goat’s beard in a UK garden. Why Grow Astilbe? Astilbe originates from parts of North America and Asia, and is a member of the Saxifragaceae family.1 There are at least 25 different varieties of Astilbe, and many more hybrids.2 Each variety has a different height, flowering time and flower colour; colours vary from white and pink, to red and lavender. Some varieties are commonly referred to as ‘False goat’s beard’, including A. ‘Fanal’ (x arendsii), which produces deep red flowers in early summer, and A. chinensis (Chinese Astilbe), which originates from China and Japan, and has pale pink flowers. As well as False goat’s beard, another name for Astilbe is False Spirea. These names come about because the feathery clusters of Astilbe give it a similar appearance to the true Goat’s-beard (Aruncus dioicus), and Spiraea plants. Astilbe is a popular choice for shaded gardens, and works well with other shade-tolerant plants, such as rodgersias and hostas, as well as grasses and ferns. It is often planted as part of a border, with several varieties of differing heights, and will add long-lasting colour and texture to your garden. Another common home for Astilbe is around a garden pond or stream, thanks to its fairly rare preference for waterlogged soil. Astilbe is a very low-maintenance plant, with few common pests, and is therefore one of the easiest perennials you can add to your garden. Habitat & Growing Conditions Astilbe’s natural habitat is the valleys, mountain ravines and woodlands of North America and Asia, where it often grows in shaded and boggy conditions. As a result, the plant does well in partial shade and favours moist or waterlogged soil. It does not like full sun or high temperatures. Ideally, Astilbe prefers soil that’s loamy and humus-rich, although it will grow in pretty much all soil types and pHs. Just make sure the soil doesn’t dry out, as Astilbe will not tolerate this. This is especially important if it’s in a sunny location, in which case lots of watering will be required. How To Grow Astilbe Although you can plant Astilbe from seed, I’d advise that this is definitely not the easiest choice, as it can be hard to germinate. Most people tend to purchase bare-rooted Astilbe plants when they are readily available in early spring, or acquire them by division. Plant Care & Growing Tips Sunlight Unlike many plants, Astilbe does not need full sunlight to produce its beautiful flowers – in fact, it favours the shade. It will, however, benefit from a little sun, to help it produce larger blooms. The best location to choose for it is one of partial or dappled shade, with perhaps an hour or two of sun throughout the day. Soil Requirements To plant your Astilbe, dig a large hole, and add some well-rotted organic compost. Astilbe can tolerate all types of soil – including acidic – with the exception of dry soil. As it needs a high moisture content, it will also do well in a boggy or waterlogged spot, where many other plants might struggle – for example by a stream or pond. Watering & Feeding Make sure to water your Astilbe regularly, and mulch the soil annually to help with water retention. Astilbe is a hardy plant, and apart from watering, requires little ongoing care for it to flourish and flower each season. It will die back to ground level each autumn after flowering, and fresh growth will appear the following spring. You can add a slow-release, balanced fertiliser at this time, to aid the summer’s flowering. Common Problems Astilbe is generally not prone to disease. Powdery Mildew One possible concern is powdery mildew, particularly due to Astilbe’s love of damp, shaded growing locations. Powdery mildew is a fungal infection which can lead to a powdery white coating on your plant’s leaves and flowers, as well as distorted leaf growth. To help avoid powdery mildew, make sure not to over-fertilise the soil, and don’t plant too densely, as this will stop air from circulating around your plant, encouraging the conditions for mould. Pruning back the centre of the plant or the division of a dense plant can also help as this will help to increase air circulation. If your plant shows signs of infection, you can tackle it by immediately pruning the affected areas, and removing any fallen infected material on the ground. You can also apply a fungicide. Bacterial Leaf Spot Another disease that may affect Astilbe is Bacterial Leaf Spot. The most obvious symptom of this is black or brown spots on the leaves. Unfortunately, it is not possible to completely eradicate Bacterial Leaf Spot once your plant is infected, but it can be controlled with the use of a fungicide. There are not many pests common to Astilbe plants, although vine weevil can sometimes attack with notches in leaves becoming apparent. Tarnished Plant Bug Occasionally, they might succumb to an infestation of tarnished plant bug – a 5mm, yellowy-brown bug, that feeds on plant tissue, sucking juices from leaves and shoots. These bugs can be controlled using insecticides, or by applying a garlic spray to your plant, to discourage feeding. You should also remove weeds and dead leaves from the area around your plant, so the bugs have nothing else to feed on, and nowhere to hide over winter. When you first plant your Astilbe, you may notice hedgehogs and rabbits nibbling on the leaves, but once the plant is established, it is generally fairly resistant to becoming wildlife fodder. References 1. Nardozzi, B. C. (2022, July 27). All About Astilbe. American Meadows. Retrieved March 10, 2023, from https://www.americanmeadows.com/perennials/astilbe/all-about-astilbe 2. Astilbes. (n.d.). Iowa State University. Retrieved March 10, 2023, from https://hortnews.extension.iastate.edu/2000/7-14-2000/astilbes.html
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This Is How Experts Grow Alstroemeria - The Perfect Statement Plant For Cut Flowers
IN THIS GUIDE Overview How To Grow Alstroemeria Planting Alstroemeria Alstroemeria Care FAQs References One of the most ubiquitous flowers found in bouquets in the Western world, Alstroemeria (also referred to as Peruvian Lily, Herb Lily or Lily of the Incas) is a much-loved bloom. The reason is not just the fact that it comes in a variety of beautiful colours and delightfully creative designs, but that it is also easy to grow by amateur gardeners and professionals alike. Native to South America, particularly Chile and Brazil, the flowers of the Alstroemeria plant don’t actually have a scent.1 However, their looks and durability pretty much make up for that. The plants will easily last until the end of summer when in the soil in the garden and for several weeks as cut flowers. Dog and cat lovers will be pleased to hear that Alstroemeria and its different varieties are pet-friendly. Overview Botanical Name Alstroemeria Common Name(s) Peruvian Lily, Herb Lily, Lily of the Incas Plant Type Perennial Flower Native Area South America Hardiness Rating H5 Foliage Herbaceous, thin lance-like leaves Flowers Showy trumpet flowers in various vibrant colours When To Sow April, May, June Flowering Months June, July, August When To Prune September The colours that the Alstroemeria can brighten up your garden, or indoors with, are rainbow-like and include yellow, red, pink, purple, white, lavender, peach, orange and even blue or green. “Like Dahlias, Alstroemerias are a bold, bright statement in the garden, but perhaps haven’t regained fashionable status in the same way,” says Master of Horticulture Colin Skelly. “I love them (the bolder and brighter, the better!) because they are great for cut flower growing and as a relatively low maintenance but high impact garden plant.” The leaves of this plant are long and slenderly shaped like a horseman’s lance, adding to its attractiveness. The patterns are fascinating too; it’s possible to choose from stripes and freckles and even two-toned petals. Alstroemeria can be grown directly in the garden soil (they make excellent border blooms) or nurtured in containers. How To Grow Alstroemeria Alstroemeria can be purchased easily from garden centres and nurseries around the UK. Such is the popularity of the plants that they are always in demand so sellers tend to be well-stocked. Florists, in particular, buy the grown flowers in batches. You can buy them in containers or as bare root tubers – most gardeners swear by the former since they are easier to grow and tend to be propagated from quality plants. Planting Alstroemeria When To Plant Sow Alstroemeria seed in the spring or summer months, using a good seed compost. It is best to germinate undercover in a propagator or at least somewhere warm such as a heated or sunny spot in the greenhouse, a southern-facing window ledge or conservatory. Certainly, the plants should only be planted outside once there is no further risk of frost on the ground (as this will kill young seedlings). This will obviously vary depending on where in the UK you live. Planting Out They prefer the soil to be light and deep; preferably filled with quality compost and mulch – at least for the first couple of years while the roots develop. And talking of the roots, these are brittle so take the utmost care if you plan on transplanting any of your Alstroemeria to other areas of the garden or into pots. Peruvian Lilies resplendent as a herbaceous border It’s best to plant the roots down as far as eight inches if possible. Alstroemeria Care Sunlight Alstroemeria prefers sunny spots in which to flourish, but they are hardy enough to cope with partly-shaded areas too. They will even flourish at the bottom of a sunny-facing wall. Soil & Mulching In terms of the soil, preferably it shouldn’t only be light, deep and exposed to the sun, but also organic. Chalk, clay, sand or loam are usually fine. However, if the soil is too sandy then compost should help with water retention issues and the plants can be watered regularly. If the soil is heavy with clay then the Alstroemeria simply won’t grow and will die off. Medium-heavy soils can work if gravel or mature manure is mixed in with it to help with drainage and nourishment. Mulch them with bark for the first two years to give them extra protection. Make sure too that the soil is free draining and slightly acidic to give the plants the best chances of growing. Give the plants extra attention if you’re growing from tubers. Staking As the plants grow, they may need to be supported with stakes or pea sticks. It’s common for the plants to grow to around six inches, while they will spread across the garden in an area measuring from 18-30 inches, which is why it’s excellent for flower borders. Pruning You can expect to get around 6-8 blooms per stem from your Alstroemeria if you prune it regularly. It won’t remain flowering unless dead flowerheads are removed; doing so allows the fresh stems to flourish. The way to prune these plants correctly is to gently pull the stem of the dead flower from the base of the plant (rather than cutting with shears). Cutting the flowers causes damage to the meristems under the soil and they will die. Having said that, if you want to use the flowers for a bouquet then cut the stalks during their first year. After that simply pull them out from their base as you would the dead flowers. Watering It’s a good idea to keep watering your Alstroemeria when first planted in order to ensure the soil remains moist. Once they begin to appear through the soil you can cut back but they do need to be watched for their first two years. Just be careful not to overwater so that the soil becomes soaking wet, since this can lead to fungus and root rot and which will definitely signal the end of your beautiful blooms. Peruvian Lilies growing wild in the UK countryside FAQs Are Alstroemerias Annual Or Perennial? Alstroemerias are tuberous perennials with deep and thick roots (once established). This means that they will grow back year-on-year and even grow in size each time. They are able to do this because although the stems die over winter, the roots remain healthy, allowing the plant to regenerate the following year. How Can I Grow Alstroemeria From Seed? Simply purchase seeds from your local garden centre or collect them yourself from existing Alstroemeria plants in your garden. Plant them in seed starting trays (having pre-soaked them overnight) and grow them sheltered in the greenhouse until you’re ready to transplant some of the seedlings into soil or containers outdoors in the summer, and laid out around 12 inches apart. In terms of growing time, it should take around six weeks for the seedlings to develop. They should be protected with mulch as they grow and covered with straw in the winter for the first two years until the roots are firmly and deeply established in the soil. Are Alstroemeria hardy plants? Alstroemeria ranks under the category of ‘hardy perennials’. They are capable of surviving intense frosts up to -20°C, provided they are properly mulched and their root systems are established and deep enough (usually after around two years of planting). How Can I Make The Most Of Alstroemerias In My Garden And As Cut Flowers? Use the plants to liven up and really add colour to the borders of your garden. As cut flowers, they can boost the colour and height of a bouquet. Taller varieties of the plant, such as ‘Orange Glory’ and ‘Apollo’, for instance, can add stature to a vase of flowers. The colours of the different types of Alstroemeria are so vibrant that they can be used to clash with other flowers or add interest when mixed in with paler and less interesting blooms. When choosing flowers for an arrangement, always go for those which are just beginning to open up so that the arrangement will last longer. References 1. Alstroemeria. (n.d.). Kew Royal Botanic Gardens. Retrieved March 9, 2023, from https://powo.science.kew.org/taxon/urn:lsid:ipni.org:names:326331-2
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Osteospermum - Grow And Care For Your African Daisies With These Practical Tips
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Habitat & Growing Conditions How To Grow Osteospermum Plant Care Buying Osteospermum References Plain and simple in structure, vivid and dazzling in colour, Osteospermum AKA ‘African Daisy’ has come out of Africa and into Britain; from the savannah to the garden. It has come out of nowhere into a rising arc of popularity – and why not? This flowering plant not only brings riotous good cheer, it is easy to grow and equally easy to maintain. Is it a subshrub or a shrub? A perennial or an annual? Single or clustered? Hard to pin down, the African Daisy is all of those! Overview Botanical Name Osteospermum Common Name(s) African Daisies Plant Type Perennial Flower / Annual Flower Native Area South Africa Hardiness Rating H3 Foliage Toothed, hairy leaves Flowers Daisy-like central disks with flat and narrow petals When To Sow May, June Flowering Months June, July, August When To Prune March, April, August, September Osteospermum species are perennials but the plant has been hybridised and cultivated for ornamental uses and most cultivars are treated as annuals. In the United Kingdom whether one or another Osteospermum is regarded as a ‘perennial’ or an ‘annual’ simply depends on whether or not it can survive a British winter and/or is allowed to do so. O. ecklonis and O. jucundum are two species which can, and, therefore, can be and often are ‘perennials’ in the UK. Though Osteospermum as an annual is rarely woody as when it is a perennial it grows to be a shrub. Usually one stalk bears a single flower but some cultivars produce lush clusters of flowers on a stem. The flowers comprise of a prominent central disk – the disk floret – and the petals – the ray floret. Most varieties’ petals are typically flat and narrow but some have curled, spoon-shaped petals. O. jucundum ‘Langtrees’ Osteospermum should not be confused with the related plant Dimorphotheca but it often is. Habitat & Growing Conditions The African Daisy’s natural habitat is the veldts, savannahs, and grasslands of Africa where they grow in relatively light soil and even poor soil.1 They are also found in and near dry forests. Their species – as opposed to most cultivars – thrive in sub-tropical regions with high humidity and also in humid warm-temperate regions. “I find the more hardy Osteospermum are cheerful additions to gravel gardens or rockeries, as long as they’re watered well to establish them,” shares Master Horticulturist Peter Lickorish. “Their bold, flat flowers pair well with more frothy upright forms such as grasses, Nepeta, or lavender. Alternatively, they have enough impact on their own to fill a container with joy.” How To Grow Osteospermum Plant seeds indoors in containers 6-8 weeks before the last frost. Cover seeds with only the barest sprinkling of soil – ideally vermiculite – as they need light to germinate. Water them twice a week initially and then as described below. Seedlings will sprout in about 2 weeks; water at the ground level and not on the leaves to prevent fungal diseases. Transplanting Seedlings can be transplanted into beds after the last frost. Transplant seedlings about 25cm apart. It may be late summer before seed-grown plants produce flowers. Established plants or store-bought plants will bloom earlier, from early summer or, depending on the variety, late spring. Most varieties will bloom in all their glory from May to early July but after that, as summer sizzles, the daisies dwindle unless deadheaded. Where To Plant The African Daisy is best shown off in sheets and swaths of flowering plants, mimicking how it occurs in nature, instead of in ones or twos. On patios and decks, a line of containers of bright-coloured cultivars set along the edge or on the parapet will bring low-key ornamental value to your enclosure. African Daisy can be used to line or edge walkways and pathways – try alternating patches with varieties in soft or pastel shades, say whites and pinks or yellows and purples. You can also use these plants to border beds whose centrepieces are showier or rarer flowers; to do so, use varieties of shorter height and complimentary, gentle colours. Finally, you can set loose an assortment of varieties and a gamut of colours in a good-sized vacant patch of your yard, being sure that no matter which ones you plant the results will bring merriment and good cheer. The open, uncomplicated structure of the flower combined with the colours that range from soothing, pastel shades to bold, vibrant hues make Osteospermum a top choice for floral arrangements, specifically mass arrangements, and also for larger bouquets. It is not recommended for emphasis or balance but is an excellent pick to achieve proportion, harmony, or rhythm. Plant Care Soil Requirements While African Daisies appreciate good soil, they grow happily enough in almost any old soil. Most varieties are unfussy, low-maintenance plants – all they need is regular watering but mature plants can make do even when dry as they simply go dormant, springing back to life when they get water. As a native of Africa, African Daisies grow well enough in sandy, chalky, and even stony soils, which is not to say that they should be grown in such soils. They need loose, light soils without much in the way of clay or manure. Thankfully, they’re unfussy when it comes to pH. Watering Mature specimens can tolerate a dry spell for a while but not waterlogged ground so make certain that your soil is well-drained. Moist soil, however, works well for the plant. Water a transplanted plant every two or three days for the first fortnight, then twice a week for the next fortnight, and then once a week. Sunlight & Temperature Though it may seem counter-intuitive for a genus of African origin, the plants do not do well in high heat, and cultivars in particular are averse to high humidity. In fact, most Osteospermums like coolish summers which lead to profuse blooming. ‘Sunny Mary’ However, these plants prefer full sun. Feeding You can increase the likelihood of plentiful and robust blooms by feeding African Daisies a sprinkling of organic fertiliser high in potassium every three weeks just before and during the flowering season. This is especially important if they’re grown in containers. Buying Osteospermum Osteospermum’s continuing rise in popularity is matched by a corresponding increase in its availability. Most nurseries and garden centres have ready stocks in an array of varieties. Potted plants, as well as seeds, are available online. Horticultural specialists sell established Osteospermum varieties as well as their own brand-new cultivars through their own websites. Instead of buying, you can ‘make’ new African Daisy plants yourself by propagating them through cuttings from late spring to late summer. References 1. Osteospermum hyoseroides. (n.d.). Kew Royal Botanic Gardens. Retrieved March 22, 2023, from https://powo.science.kew.org/taxon/urn:lsid:ipni.org:names:235817-1
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This Is How Pro Gardeners Grow Chrysanthemum Plants With Abundant Flowers
IN THIS GUIDE Overview How To Grow Chrysanthemum Ongoing Plant Care Common Issues References Chrysanthemum – or “mums”, as they are affectionately called – are one of the most popular flowers among gardeners, and rightly so! With their vibrant shades of violet, yellow, red, and orange, they are sure to add a burst of glorious colour to any garden. Not only will this beautiful plant bring luscious flowers to your garden, but choosing the right variety will prove to be a gift that keeps giving year after year. They are also fairly easy to grow. Overview Botanical Name Chrysanthemum Common Name Mums Plant Type Perennial / Annual Flower Native Area East Asia and North-East Europe Hardiness Rating H3-H4 Foliage Aromatic, pinnately lobed leaves Flowers Flower heads diverse in hue and form When To Sow April, May Flowering Months September, October When To Prune October Of all daisies, none have been bred and cultivated as much as the chrysanthemum, whose name means “Golden Flower”.1 Originally cultivated in China as a herb, these hardy plants bloom from September to frost and are accentuated by their deep green leaves. Being relatively inexpensive they have kept their place as a firm favourite in gardens around the world, up there with other big names like roses, tulips, and carnations. Are Chrysanthemums Annual Or Perennial? There are hundreds of different varieties of chrysanthemum, and people often ask whether they are annual or perennial. The short answer is both – it depends on the variety. However, annual varieties are more commonly grown as potted plants. Here is an annual variety known as Corn Marigold that I successfully grew from seed last year: C. segetum How To Grow Chrysanthemum When planting your Chrysanthemum, timing is everything. No doubt you want to fill your garden with their loaded blooms, and understanding what they need to thrive will give you the best chance to do just that. Planting Obviously it’s important to read about the exact flower you are planting, but as a general rule of thumb, planting perennial chrysanthemums is best done in the spring. This gives the flower a chance to establish itself over the months and adapt to its new home. Giving the root system time to grow stronger over the summer and autumn will help ensure your chrysanthemum survives the winter. Soil Requirements Chrysanthemums are best suited to well-draining soil with plenty of moisture. While in theory it is possible to grow them in hard dry soil, be aware that this will prevent the roots from properly establishing themselves. At the other end of the spectrum, wet boggy soil risks drowning the roots. To create the ideal soil for your Chrysanthemum, work the soil down to a depth of around 20-30cm. Follow this by adding some compost and mix it in to a depth of 5-10cm. When you squeeze the soil in your hand it shouldn’t clump together, it should just gently crumble. Spacing Spacing is extremely important when planting chrysanthemums. When you first plant them the garden might still feel quite bare, but don’t be tempted to plant them too closely together. By the autumn after the spring planting, your flowers could be up to three feet high! They are known to increase in size yearly as well, so keep this in mind and make allowances when planting. “I grow chrysanthemums in pots as I like to use them in a seasonal pot display in autumn,” says Colin Skelly, a Horticultural Consultant with previous experience at The Eden Project. “This will also allow you to control the soil conditions if your soil is heavy and to move the plant to favourable positions in the garden.” Sunlight Chrysanthemums love the sun. A nice little secret about this plant is that when it senses the change in light as evenings become darker in late summer, it will begin to set buds. Planting your chrysanthemums near artificial lights is a way to take advantage of this, and lengthen their bloom time. Ongoing Plant Care As we’ve mentioned, chrysanthemums are not difficult plants to grow and are pretty low-maintenance. That said, having a good care plan will ensure you really get the most out of them and will keep your garden bright and colourful. Watering As we said earlier, chrysanthemums thrive in well-drained soil with plenty of moisture. Watering this plant evenly and regularly throughout spring, summer, and autumn will keep it strong and healthy. We recommend watering in the morning to a depth of about 20cm, directing the water to the base of the plant. Pruning Chrysanthemums don’t actually need pruning, but “pinching” them throughout the growing season is important; this will allow your plants to branch out and flourish. In autumn, deadhead when necessary until the flower ceases to bloom. When your chrysanthemum dies back for winter, don’t cut it back. Allowing it to die back naturally will usually produce a much stronger and healthier plant the following year. Feeding To give your chrysanthemums the very best chance to flourish, fertilising is highly recommended. Feed them with a well-balanced, all-purpose fertiliser and do so consistently throughout the vegetative stages. This will prevent premature flowering and ultimately help your plants grow even larger and more luscious. Once your chrysanthemum flowers are in bloom, switch to a balanced, water-soluble fertiliser and apply monthly from early spring through summer. Common Issues Chrysanthemums really are a low maintenance plant, and although they are at risk from some diseases, they seldom have any trouble if you care for them well. Pests The main suspects to watch out for are mites, thrips, aphids, and earwigs. And slugs and snails of course! To deal with these mini-beasts use either insecticidal soap spray or a good strong blast from your hose to remove them from the foliage. Diseases Among the most common diseases to watch out for, fungal diseases are the easiest to spot and can be dealt with quickly. Keep an eye out for leaf spot, powdery mildew, rust, and moulds. There are a multitude of very effective anti-fungal sprays that can be bought from any gardening centre, although with some fungal problems, removing the parts of the plant that are infected is necessary to prevent it from spreading. Some of the pests mentioned above can also spread viral problems, many of which sadly have no cure – look for signs of stunted growth and yellowing foliage. Unfortunately if you determine the plant is suffering from a viral issue, you may need to destroy it. Sad though this is, keep in mind that it is very unlikely: providing you are caring for your chrysanthemum well, they rarely contract diseases. Chrysanthemums are a timeless favourite and welcome addition to any British garden. They are colourful, versatile, and surprisingly hardy for such a pretty flower. References 1. Chrysanthemum – The Golden Flower. (n.d.). Kadoorie Farm and Botanic Garden. Retrieved March 14, 2023, from https://www.kfbg.org/en/KFBG-blog/post/Chrysanthemum-The-Golden-Flower
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How Experts Grow Guernsey Lilies With Tips From Two Respected Nerine Enthusiasts
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Habitat & Growing Conditions Guernsey Lily Varieties Other Nerines Guernsey Lily Benefits How To Grow Nerine Nerine Care & Maintenance Common Problems References There are many types of flowers you can plant to add great colour and interest to your garden, but few are as incredible as the Guernsey lily. The great thing about Guernsey lilies is that unlike a lot of other flower species, they’re able to easily withstand the harsh conditions of UK winters, so you don’t have to worry about them struggling to cope with colder temperatures and frost. Guernsey lilies come in a variety of colours and are perfect for growing in your garden, in pots or using the cuttings as part of a display. In this guide, we collaborate with a few respected nerine enthusiasts here in the UK: Caroline Stone – Journal Editor of ‘Amaryllids’, The Nerine and Amaryllid Society’s own published journal. Nick de Rothschild – Oversees the Exbury Nerines collection at Exbury Gardens. “Nerines are such wonderful plants for the Autumn, providing bright colour to carry us into the winter,” says Caroline. Overview Botanical Name Nerine Common Name(s) Guernsey Lily Plant Type Perennial Flower Native Area South Africa Hardiness Rating H5 Foliage Linear leaves which show after flowering Flowers Lily-like pink flowers When To Sow March, April Flowering Months September, October, November, December Let’s start by looking at the origins of the flower. Guernsey lilies, also known by their botanical name as ‘Nerine’ plants, are a type of flower that originates from South Africa.1 Although they originate from South Africa, they have been cultivated on the island of Guernsey for more than 300 years, hence their name.2 The genus Nerine, which Guernsey Lilies belong to, was first established in 1820 by Reverend William Herbert.3 Habitat & Growing Conditions Guernsey lilies are native to South Africa, which means they are best suited to a temperate climate and cannot cope with prolonged exposure to extreme heat or cold. Knowing the conditions that Guernsey lilies grow in the wild is certainly useful when you’re growing your own. They grow best when they’re not disturbed and can be grown in bunches, provided you provide adequate space between each bulb. Guernsey Lily Varieties The term ‘Guernsey Lily’ is often used to describe the various types of nerine plants, with the two most common being N. bowdenii and N. sarniensis. Below is a description of both plants – Nerine bowdenii N. bowdenii is the first type of Guernsey lily and the variety that people most often think of when they hear the name. It has distinctive bright pink flowers and does well in temperate climates. N. sarniensis The other prominent type of Guernsey lily is N. sarniensis, which shares a lot of similarities with N. bowdenii, being suited to temperate climates. The main visual difference between the two is the colour of their flowers, which are scarlet as opposed to pink. N. sarniensis is also less hardy than N. bowdenii, requiring winter protection to survive. “We have one of the finest collections of N. sarniensis in the world,” says Nick, when discussing his collection of nerines at Exbury Gardens. “These nerines produce a wondrous spectacle in October that is just amazing to observe.” Other Nerines There are some other excellent plants in the Nerine genus that allow you to add a further range of colours to your garden. “Increase the colour range of hardy nerines by growing several varieties,” says Caroline. Her recommended varieties include: N. bowdenii ‘Isabel’ N. bowdenii ‘Stefanie’ N. bowdenii ‘Ella K’ N. bowdenii ‘Bianca Perla’ N. ‘Regina’ N. ‘Wolsey’ N. ‘Dingaan’ Below are some of the best ones to try: N. bowdenii ‘Alba’ N. bowdenii ‘Alba’ has white star-shaped flowers and is excellent for use with other types of Guernsey lilies. It looks great either in a container, border or garden bed; you can also cut them to display in a vase if you want. Alba plants are hardy, so you don’t have to worry about them being exposed to wind/frost etc. in winter. You should plant them in soil that’s well-drained and in a spot that gets good exposure to the sun. N. undulata N. undulata is another beautiful variety and would be perfect planted in a sunny border, providing it gets some shelter later in the day. It will generally do best in soil that’s not too saturated. Guernsey Lily Benefits Below are some of the main benefits of growing these plants – They help to add colour and interest to your garden. They’re suitable for being planted in flower beds as well as pots and containers. They’re completely hardy, so you don’t have to worry about them getting damaged or dying during harsh weather conditions in the winter. They generally don’t suffer from any diseases or pests. They can be bought very easily. They are very easy to grow. They look great when planted together in bunches. How To Grow Nerine You have the option to grow Guernsey lilies either directly in the soil of a flower bed or border; or in containers. They do well in either growing method providing they get enough water and sunlight. “I would recommend growing nerines in a glasshouse or a frost-free greenhouse,” says Nick. “They like square, plastic 2-litre pots for the most successful flowering. I’ve found that this also is the best choice for their annual root development.” Container Growing Growing Guernsey lilies in pots or containers is quite simple, but it’s important you take the right steps at the beginning to make sure they flower well. The first step is to fill your container with soil. You don’t need to be too particular about the condition or the pH of the soil; providing it’s not too moist it will be fine. Dig a hole in the soil and place the bulb in it, leaving an inch above the top of it. If you’re planting multiple bulbs in the same container, then you should leave roughly 8-10 inches between them, so they have enough room to grow. In the UK climate, it’s usually okay to leave potted Guernsey lilies on a windowsill. This way you can ensure it gets a good amount of sunlight during the day and shade in the evening. Make sure to water the plants generously when you notice they’re growing. However, “don’t over water, as waterlogging will cause the bulbs to rot,” warns Caroline. “In the greenhouse, withhold water from N. sarniensis when they go dormant and wait until signs of growth (usually in August in the UK) before starting to water again.” You should notice foliage first beginning to appear in the spring and summer, with the flower stems appearing in autumn. Flower Beds & Borders When you’re planting Guernsey lilies in a flower bed, the same basic planting procedure mentioned above should be used. The most important part of planting Guernsey lilies outdoors is that you find the right spot for them. “If you live in coastal areas of southern or western UK, you probably have mild enough winters to grow nerines outside all year round,” says Horticulturist Colin Skelly. “I grow them at the base of south-facing walls. They flower best when they form clumps, declining only when they become tightly overcrowded (when they should be divided).” The soil where you plant them should drain well and not be susceptible to waterlogging. Nick recommends Johns Innes No. 3 for nerine bulb planting. If water gathers in the soil hours after a downpour, you should find another spot. Dig holes in the soil where you want to place your bulbs and plant them with the necks roughly an inch above soil level, as Caroline explains: “Hardy nerines (mostly N. bowdenii) are very easy to grow but you must remember to plant them so the neck of the bulb shows above the ground.” Again, if you’re planting multiple bulbs, then just be sure to leave enough space between them. Water them well after planting, as well as during dry spells and when you notice new growth. Planting Bulbs The best time to plant Guernsey lilies is in spring. Planting the bulbs at this time will give them plenty of time to get established, with the first signs of growth appearing in early autumn. Nerine Care & Maintenance Generally, Guernsey lilies are very hardy and can cope well with harsh conditions. Still, it’s not a bad idea to use mulch in the winter to prevent the soil from becoming frozen and cracking. It’s also important to avoid moving your lilies once they’ve been planted. Guernsey lilies don’t cope well with being disturbed, so you should avoid doing this unless completely necessary. It’s a good idea to add some bulb food or fertiliser when you first plant Guernsey lily bulbs as this will help to encourage growth. “Remember to divide clumps of hardy nerines when they get congested,” Caroline advises. “This will give you more bulbs to spread around your garden!” Common Problems One of the many great things about Guernsey lilies is that they’re not nearly as prone to diseases and pests as a lot of other plant species; in fact, they’re generally considered to be disease-free. Although Guernsey plants are very hardy and resistant to diseases and pests, this doesn’t mean they’re completely problem-free. “Tender nerines (N. sarniensis) need to be given winter protection such as a greenhouse – and you also need to watch out for mealybugs, which can be an issue in greenhouses,” says Caroline. “A systematic bug killer can be applied in August whe root growth is active to get rid of mealybugs,” adds Nick. N. sarniensis One problem that Guernsey lilies can suffer from is not flowering. This is usually because proper care hasn’t been taken to provide the plants with the best environment. Some rules to adhere to if you want them to flower are – 1) Plant Them In Good Soil Although Guernsey lilies are hardy plants, it’s still necessary to ensure they’re planted in soil that’s in decent condition. Soil that’s very dry and cracked or overly saturated should be avoided. 2) Allow Enough Room For The Bulb When Planting You’ll certainly want to ensure that you leave enough room when planting the bulb so it’s able to grow. Dig a hole in the soil and when placing the bulb in it, leave the top of bulb roughly an inch above soil level. 3) Water Regularly In the months after you first plant Guernsey lily bulbs, it’s vital that you make sure you water them regularly. How much you need to water your bulbs will depend on the weather and where they’re planted. If you have them in pots, then soaking them once every couple of weeks will work well. If your bulbs are planted outdoors, then you should water your plants after they’re first planted, during dry spells and when you notice any new flowers emerging. “You can also feed during the growing period with a weak tomato fertiliser,” Nick suggests. 4) Make Sure They Get Plenty Of Sunlight Sunlight is equally important for Guernsey lilies as water. You should place any plants that you have in a spot where they’ll get plenty of sunlight during the day. If you put your bulbs in pots, then you should place them on a windowsill or somewhere else where they can get sunlight. Outdoor plants should be planted in a spot where they get at least some sunlight during the day. References 1. Nerine. (n.d.-b). Kew Royal Botanic Gardens. Retrieved March 16, 2023, from https://powo.science.kew.org/taxon/urn:lsid:ipni.org:names:1561-1 2. Nerine. (n.d.-c). Royal Horticultural Society. Retrieved March 16, 2023, from https://www.rhs.org.uk/plants/nerine 3. Nerines. (2009, September 18). The Northern Echo. Retrieved March 16, 2023, from https://www.thenorthernecho.co.uk/opinion/latest/4636850.nerines/
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