Growing
These Remarkable Long-Flowering Perennials Will Keep Your Garden Bursting With Life
IN THIS GUIDE Maintain Plants For Longer Flowering 1) English Lavender 2) Catmint 3) Dahlias 4) Yarrow 5) Hardy Geraniums 6) Spiderwort 7) Daylily 8) Butterfly Bush 9) Pincushions 10) Black-Eyed Susan 11) Masterwort 12) Penstemons 13) Peruvian Lily 14) Coneflower 15) Geums 16) Stonecrop 17) Clematis 18) Phlox 19) Amsonia 20) Bellflower 21) Valerian 22) Wallflower 23) Carnations 24) Aster 25) Hydrangea References When the peak gardening season kicks in, you want your garden to be bursting with life and colour, and long-flowering perennials are just the ticket. Many perennials will offer second blooms to help prevent gaps in your garden, with little maintenance or additional planting required. “A perennial is a plant with a life that exceeds two years,” shares Dan Ori, a Master Horticulturist. “Some perennials are tender and need protection in the winter, but in the UK the term perennial is usually used for hardy plants.” With some, you simply have to remove the flowers before they start seeding, and this will encourage another burst of flowers. Maintain Plants For Longer Flowering Other perennials just need to be cut back entirely after their first round of flowering, and should reflower again if fed and watered. We also recommend deadheading to promote more prolonged flowering and help your garden to look its best for as long as possible. Deadheading prompts plants to direct their energy into new flowers rather than seed generation.1 To get the most out of your garden, we recommend planting in a mix of early, mid-year, and late bloomers. This will keep things as colourful as possible, for as much of the year as possible. There are lots of long-flowering perennials to choose from, all requiring different levels of care and maintenance – we’ve written this list to help you get started: 1) English Lavender BOTANICAL NAME: Lavandula angustifolia HARDINESS RATING: H5 POSITION: FULL SUN; PROTECTED FLOWERING SEASON: SUMMER POSSIBLE FLOWERING MONTHS: JUNE – JULY With its fragrant leaves and long-blooming purple flowers, lavender has always been a firm favourite in English gardens. Whether you have a country cottage garden or a more modern, contemporary design, lavender will always fit in and, as it can be grown in containers, it is perfect for even the most modest-sized spaces. Lavender should be planted in spring from March to May in well-drained soil in a sunny, sheltered spot. You’ll be rewarded with gorgeous flowers from late spring and all the way through summer. They also attract bees and other important pollinators to your garden, so they really are a must-have.2 2) Catmint BOTANICAL NAME: Nepeta cataria HARDINESS RATING: H7 POSITION: Full Sun; Exposed or Protected FLOWERING SEASON: SUMMER / AUTUMN POSSIBLE FLOWERING MONTHS: MAY – AUGUST Nepeta, or catmint, is also well-loved by pollinators, and this aromatic beauty blooms from late spring to the middle of autumn, producing gorgeous clusters of lavender-blue flowers. Catmint is easy to grow, and you should plant it out in spring. For best results, plant it in sun or partial shade and in average to well-draining soil. “This plant is considered a great companion for vegetable patches as it is thought its essential oils deter insects when used as edging, but there is more study is needed to determine what beneficial and detrimental insects might be affected,” shares Dan. Take care to deadhead them to encourage further flowering. 3) Dahlias HARDINESS RATING: H3 POSITION: FULL SUN; PROTECTED FLOWERING SEASON: SUMMER / AUTUMN POSSIBLE FLOWERING MONTHS: JULY – OCTOBER If well cared for and deadheaded when necessary, Dahlias can put on their show from midsummer all the way through until the arrival of frost. With colours ranging from pretty pastels to boastful brights, Dahlias make a real statement in any garden. These little showstoppers should be planted during late May to mid-June, depending on one when the frost has ended. Dahlias prefer a sunny site in free-draining, lighter soil and you can boost your stocks by cutting and division, or by growing new plants from seed. 4) Yarrow BOTANICAL NAME: ACHILLEA HARDINESS RATING: H7 POSITION: FULL SUN; EXPOSED OR PROTECTED FLOWERING SEASON: SUMMER POSSIBLE FLOWERING MONTHS: JUNE – OCTOBER One of the longest flowering perennials, yarrow is a bee and butterfly magnet. It makes a lovely addition to herb gardens and flower beds. Yarrow can be planted from October to March in full sun, and while it can thrive in almost any soil types, it much prefers well-drained soil. This plant will produce adorable clusters of flowers in a vast range of colours, and by cutting it back thoroughly in late summer, you encourage fresh foliage and blooms. 5) Hardy Geraniums HARDINESS RATING: H7 POSITION: Full Sun or Part Shade; Exposed or Protected FLOWERING SEASON: SUMMER / AUTUMN POSSIBLE FLOWERING MONTHS: JUNE – OCTOBER Reliable and long flowering, hardy geraniums can flower from April through till September in a variety of colours. Tolerating both sun and shade they are best planted in well-drained soil and, if cut back after flowering, they will usually produce a second wave of blooms. Hardy geraniums are also great self-seeders, and you will often find them flourishing in tiny cracks and spaces. They are also well-loved by pollinators such as bees and hoverflies and provide a long season of nectar and pollen. 6) Spiderwort BOTANICAL NAME: Tradescantia HARDINESS RATING: H6 POSITION: PART SHADE; PROTECTED FLOWERING SEASON: SUMMER / AUTUMN POSSIBLE FLOWERING MONTHS: JUNE – SEPTEMBER Resilient and easy to grow, tradescantias are short-lived; however, they frequently flower and have superb grassy foliage. Producing unusual, three petalled flowers and thriving in a range of soils, this perennial is perfect for hanging baskets as well as for ground colour and filling gaps in borders. Flowering from late spring to late summer this cheerful and charming plant is a beautiful addition to any garden. 7) Daylily BOTANICAL NAME: Hemerocallis HARDINESS RATING: H6/7 POSITION: Full Sun or Part Shade; Exposed or Protected FLOWERING SEASON: SUMMER POSSIBLE FLOWERING MONTHS: JUNE – AUGUST Also known as hemerocallis, this pretty little plant produces lily-like flowers that only last a day or two, but thankfully, in such an abundance that they span the period from spring to late summer. With many colours to choose from, ranging from vibrant yellows and oranges to deep, burgundy-red, these plants bring a valuable flash of colour and life to your garden. Plant hemerocallis in free-draining, fertile soil avoiding heavy shade as well as borders that are prone to drying out come summer. 8) Butterfly Bush BOTANICAL NAME: BUDDLEJA HARDINESS RATING: H6 POSITION: Full Sun or Part Shade; Exposed or Protected FLOWERING SEASON: SUMMER / AUTUMN POSSIBLE FLOWERING MONTHS: JULY – OCTOBER Also known as butterfly bushes, this deciduous perennial typically blooms from June through to September. It can reach up to eight feet in height and sometimes more producing long pinnacles of blue and purple clusters of purple and blue flowers. Buddlejas should be planted in full sun and well-drained soil and should be watered slowly and deeply during dry spells. They are low maintenance and just require deadheading after flowering to prevent them from self-seeding. As the name suggests, butterfly bushes are well-loved by butterflies as well as lots of other pollinators and beneficial insects. 9) Pincushions BOTANICAL NAME: SCABIOSA HARDINESS RATING: H4 POSITION: Full Sun; Exposed or Protected FLOWERING SEASON: SUMMER POSSIBLE FLOWERING MONTHS: JULY – SEPTEMBER Although a meadow-flower, scabious looks equally at home in a more formal, manicured garden and are also a wonderful gap-filler. Flowering from June through to late August, this perennial comes in many colours, including white, blue and deep red. Scabious prefer full sunlight but they will tolerate some shade and should be planted in moist, well-drained soil. One single scabious can produce over two thousand seeds, which makes them a favourite amongst birds. 10) Black-Eyed Susan BOTANICAL NAME: Rudbeckia HARDINESS RATING: H6 POSITION: Full Sun or Part Shade; Exposed or Protected FLOWERING SEASON: SUMMER / AUTUMN POSSIBLE FLOWERING MONTHS: JUNE – SEPTEMBER With their daisy-like appearance that blooms for weeks, this prolific perennial will bring a nonstop cacophony of colour to your late-summer garden, typically flourishing from late June until the first frost. Black-eyed Susan requires minimum effort and care and should be planted in full sun and well-drained soil. Dead-heading will help prompt repeated flowering, and they are enthusiastic self-seeders. You can also cut back this plant to encourage another burst of blooms in Autumn. These care-free wildflowers are a great way to attract birds into your garden. 11) Masterwort BOTANICAL NAME: ASTRANTIA HARDINESS RATING: H7 POSITION: Full Sun or Part Shade; Exposed or Protected FLOWERING SEASON: SUMMER POSSIBLE FLOWERING MONTHS: MAY – AUGUST These sophisticated shade-lovers sport showy, star-like flowers in a range of different colours. They also happen to be slug and snail-proof, making them an ideal asset for any border. Astrantias should be planted in heavy, damp soil in full sun or dappled shade. They will also benefit highly from home-made compost or leaf mulch. Flowering from June to August, this plant provides a long season of colour and, by cutting the plant back after flowering, you can expect more foliage and more flowers. 12) Penstemons HARDINESS RATING: H4 POSITION: Full Sun or Part Shade; Exposed or Protected FLOWERING SEASON: SUMMER / AUTUMN POSSIBLE FLOWERING MONTHS: JUNE – OCTOBER If your border is lacking colour in late summer, then this plant will make an immediate impact. This perennial can suffer in winter, so we recommend waiting to cut back until late Spring. Plant in groups of three or five and this plant will reward you with flowers right up to the first frost. 13) Peruvian Lily BOTANICAL NAME: Alstroemeria HARDINESS RATING: H4 POSITION: PART SHADE; PROTECTED FLOWERING SEASON: SPRING / SUMMER / AUTUMN POSSIBLE FLOWERING MONTHS: MAY – OCTOBER Alstroemeria – or ‘Peruvian Lily’ – is a perennial flower native to South America. It’s most likely to flower between the months of June and August, though you may see some varieties bloom earlier or later. They will do best in a sheltered area that receives at least partial shade throughout the day. There are many hybrids of this bushy plant and you can expect to grow many different colours and varieties – each with its own flowering period. As it is only H4 hardy, you will need to offer some protection to the roots if you’d like the plant to return the following year. Mulching well before cold weather and frosts set in is usually the best option. 14) Coneflower BOTANICAL NAME: Echinacea HARDINESS RATING: H5 POSITION: Full Sun or Part Shade; Exposed or Protected FLOWERING SEASON: SUMMER / AUTUMN POSSIBLE FLOWERING MONTHS: JULY – SEPTEMBER The most popular variety of Echinacea, Echinacea purpurea (or ‘Purple Coneflower’) is a well-known favourite here in the UK, where it is H5 hardy. You can expect its large, showy flowers to bloom in the summer months and attract a range of pollinators to your garden. Those in full sun will generally flower better (and for longer), though they will still do well in part shade. 15) Geums BOTANICAL NAME: AVENS HARDINESS RATING: H7 POSITION: Full Sun; Exposed or Protected FLOWERING SEASON: SPRING / SUMMER / AUTUMN POSSIBLE FLOWERING MONTHS: MAY – OCTOBER Geums are hardy perennials that are commonly used as companion plants – especially in wildflower and cottage garden planting schemes. They look great with campanula, hardy geraniums, hellebores and many other flowering perennial plants. They have a very long flowering season and will usually appear in late-spring – sometimes lasting all the way until autumn. Plant in full sun and divide every 3-4 years for the best results in your garden. 16) Stonecrop BOTANICAL NAME: SEDUM HARDINESS RATING: H7 POSITION: FULL SUN; EXPOSED FLOWERING SEASON: SUMMER / AUTUMN POSSIBLE FLOWERING MONTHS: AUGUST – OCTOBER 17) Clematis HARDINESS RATING: VARIES POSITION: VARIES FLOWERING SEASON: ALL POSSIBLE FLOWERING MONTHS: YEAR-ROUND 18) Phlox HARDINESS RATING: H7 POSITION: Full Sun or Part Shade; Exposed or Protected FLOWERING SEASON: SUMMER / AUTUMN POSSIBLE FLOWERING MONTHS: JULY – SEPTEMBER 19) Amsonia HARDINESS RATING: H5 POSITION: Full Sun or Part Shade; Exposed or Protected FLOWERING SEASON: SPRING / SUMMER POSSIBLE FLOWERING MONTHS: MAY – JULY 20) Bellflower BOTANICAL NAME: CAMPANULA HARDINESS RATING: VARIES POSITION: Full Sun or Part Shade; Exposed or Protected FLOWERING SEASON: SUMMER POSSIBLE FLOWERING MONTHS: JUNE – AUGUST 21) Valerian BOTANICAL NAME: VALERIANA OFFICINALIS HARDINESS RATING: H4 POSITION: Full Sun or Part Shade; Exposed or Protected FLOWERING SEASON: SUMMER POSSIBLE FLOWERING MONTHS: JULY – OCTOBER 22) Wallflower BOTANICAL NAME: ERYSIMUM HARDINESS RATING: H5 POSITION: Full Sun; Exposed or Protected FLOWERING SEASON: SPRING / SUMMER POSSIBLE FLOWERING MONTHS: MARCH – AUGUST 23) Carnations BOTANICAL NAME: DIANTHUS HARDINESS RATING: H6/7 POSITION: Full Sun or Part Shade; Protected FLOWERING SEASON: SPRING / SUMMER / AUTUMN POSSIBLE FLOWERING MONTHS: MAY – OCTOBER 24) Aster HARDINESS RATING: H6/7 POSITION: Full Sun; Exposed or Protected FLOWERING SEASON: SUMMER / AUTUMN POSSIBLE FLOWERING MONTHS: AUGUST – OCTOBER 25) Hydrangea HARDINESS RATING: H5 POSITION: Full Sun or Part Shade; Exposed or Protected FLOWERING SEASON: SUMMER / AUTUMN POSSIBLE FLOWERING MONTHS: AUGUST – OCTOBER References 1. Deadheading plants. (n.d.). Royal Horticultural Society. Retrieved March 20, 2023, from https://www.rhs.org.uk/garden-jobs/deadheading-plants 2. Benjamin, A. (2013, October 17). Love buzz: bees most attracted to lavender and marjoram, study finds. The Guardian. Retrieved March 20, 2023, from https://www.theguardian.com/environment/2013/oct/17/bees-most-attracted-lavender-marjoram
Learn more
Grow These 8 Lily Types With Stunning Trumpet, Oriental And Asiatic Options
IN THIS GUIDE Expert Opinion Types Of Lilies 1) Asiatic Lilies 2) Oriental Lilies 3) Orienpet Lilies 4) Trumpet Lilies 5) Canada Lilies 6) Longiflorum Lilies 7) Longiflorum Asiatic ‘LA’ Hybrid Lilies 8) Turk’s Cap Lilies Let Loose With Lilies Delicately elegant and effortlessly beautiful, lilies are one of the most recognisable flowers in the world. They’ll be right at home in any style of garden, whether it’s a country cottage or something more modern and contemporary. “From Asiatic Lilies in pots used in a formal style to Martagon Lilies grown in a woodland understory in a naturalistic style, lilies offer something for every gardening temperament and style,” says Horticultural Consultant Colin Skelly. “I use them in both of these ways but considering the options, there are many more ways I should explore.” Lilies are often regarded as a little old fashioned but, thanks to thousands of hybrid varieties that see them blooming in every imaginable colour with their own unique fragrances, they’re making a comeback in a big way. Lilies are also suitable for any garden size as they can be grown in the open ground or pots, meaning you can include them in even the most compact space. Easy to grow and maintain, lilies are extremely rewarding and are the perfect way to add a boost of beauty and colour to your garden. This plant features heavily in various cultures and religions, where their symbolism plays a prominent role. Whether you believe in the symbolism of the lily, or just enjoy their gorgeous aesthetic, they’re an undeniably excellent addition to any garden. Expert Opinion “My favourite type of lilies changes throughout the growing season,” says Lynn Slackman, the President of the North American Lily Society. “The early Martagon and Species are a sight to behold, as they are both so petite and charming. “The Trumpets and Aurelian varieties are large, commanding, and fragrant, and the interdivisional hybrids that bloom towards the end of summer bring that last bang of colour and fragrance to the garden.” Types Of Lilies With so many Lilium varieties to choose from this can be a daunting task, so we’ve done the hard work for you. We have separated the lilies into eight divisions and picked out our favourite type within each division – as well as many further choices (with an image for each!). 1) Asiatic Lilies Bred from several different types of lilies, these hybrids provide the earliest lily bloom. Their petals are often spotted and can be white, yellow, red or orange. They also make long-lasting cut flowers and are a popular choice for wedding bouquets. Their lack of fragrance means that they won’t disrupt the scent of the perfume that a bride may be wearing. Our Favourite Asiatic: Lilium ‘Grand Cru’ Brighten up your garden with the gorgeous Lilium ‘Grand Cru’ This cultivar of lily is a gorgeous, upwards facing plant with bright yellow, wide-open flowers. The grand cru blooms from early to mid-summer and is ideal as a border plant, providing a showy blast of colour which will contrast nicely with perennial plants. Growing up to four feet in height, this plant is beloved by bees and easy to grow and maintain. This cultivar will also grow reliably in containers so are perfect even within a smaller garden. More Asiatic Lilies Pink Giant Tiger Lily ‘Fata Morgana’ ‘Apricot Fudge’ ‘Must See’ ‘Stargazer’ ‘Elodie’ ‘Eyeliner’ ‘Lollypop’ ‘Yellow Bruse’ ‘Levi’ ‘Friso’ ‘Black Pearl’ 2) Oriental Lilies If you are looking to fill your garden with fragrance, then oriental lilies are the way to go. Their pretty perfume is most prevalent in the evenings and is the perfect companion for balmy evenings when you sit out on your patio or decking. This variety produces broad leaves and large exotic flowers, blooming in shades of pink, purple, white and yellow. Oriental lilies are known for their big, flamboyant personalities and bloom for an extended period of time between mid to late summer and often right through into autumn. Our Favourite Oriental: Lilium ‘Starlight Express’ This eye-catching and fragrant plant is a real showstopper with up to fifteen fabulous flowers per stem. Best grown in full sunshine this is a truly rewarding plant and is ideal for adding glorious splashes of colour to your borders. This cultivar is incredibly easy to grow and care for, and the colour and scent can transform your garden. They are also perfect for container growing and make excellent fresh cut flowers. More Oriental Lilies ‘Casablanca’ ‘Big Smile’ ‘Big Brother’ ‘Polar Star’ ‘Dizzy’ ‘Aisha’ ‘Companion’ ‘Exotic Sun’ ‘Kaveri’ ‘Marlon’ ‘Petrolia’ ‘Sorbonne’ 3) Orienpet Lilies Crossed between oriental hybrids and trumpet types, orienpet lilies are the perfect variety for your summer garden. These beautiful lilies are highly aromatic and come in a huge array of colours. Our Favourite Orienpet: L. ‘Black Beauty’ Blooming ‘Black Beauty’ The Lilium ‘Black Beauty’ is a truly spectacular garden plant and is extraordinarily vigorous. Its deep crimson flowers are embellished with thin white margins which bloom in mid-late summer. Best planted in full sun or partial shade, this lily will thrive in fertile, acidic, well-drained soil. They are resistant to disease, and much more tolerant to heat, cold and drought than many other varieties. These factors combine to give this cultivar a reputation as a real break-through in lily breeding. More Orienpet Lilies ‘Anastasia’ ‘Belladonna’ ‘Flashpoint’ ‘Nymph’ ‘Robert Swanson’ ‘Scheherazade’ 4) Trumpet Lilies Known also as Aurelian lilies, this type is prolific in appearance and colour, and are also gloriously fragrant. Named for its triumphant, trumpet-shaped flowers, this type comes in shades of pink, yellow, orange, cream and white. They are magnificently tall, easy to grow and can produce up to fifteen blooms per stalk. They have an exceptionally long flowering period and are perfect for perennial borders. Our Favourite Trumpet: L. ‘African Queen’ The queen of the lilies Delightfully fragrant the L. ‘African Queen’ certainly deserves its royal title. It’s large, apricot coloured trumpets give it a real sense of ceremony and the outer petals boast a beautiful burgundy colour, creating an air of luxury. This glorious lily is celebrated for its sensational scent and its magnificent aesthetics. Growing up to 6 feet in height, this easy-to-grow lily performs best in full sun or partial shade and, despite its grand name, is not fussy about soil types. Plant in spring or autumn and you will be rewarded with a sensationally striking display. More Trumpet Lilies ‘White Planet’ ‘Regale’ ‘Bellsong’ ‘Pink Perfection’ ‘Golden Splendor’ ‘Easter’ ‘Regale’ 5) Canada Lilies This North American native type of lily is blessed with beautiful yellow or orange petals and can grow up to four feet in height. With each stalk producing up to eight leaves per stem and up to twenty gorgeous flowers, this variety has become a firm favourite among gardeners. Best suited to woodland gardens, Canada lilies will thrive in meadow-like areas. It is worth noting, however, that while they are well-loved by gardeners, they are equally adored by rabbits and deer. If you live in a countryside setting this might not be the ideal lily type for you. Wild yellow Lilies Introduce the true colour of summer to your garden Sporting bright, fresh yellow blooms with adorable black spots, this is one of the most charming varieties of lily. That said, whilst it is easy to plant, you may end up waiting up to five years for them to come into bloom. Most Canada lilies are best grown from bulbs and prefer full sun or partial shade in slightly acidic soil. These delightful plants add charm and whimsy to your garden and bring with it the true colour of summer. 6) Longiflorum Lilies Typically known as Easter lilies, longiflorums are encouraged to bloom out of season by exposing the bulbs to the right conditions. With their trumpet-like shape and scented white blooms, this type requires a little more expertise, but are well worth the patience. After enjoying their beautiful bloom, you should introduce the bulbs into your garden where they will enjoy full sunshine and well-drained soil. Our Favourite Longiflorum: ‘Elegant Lady’ Elegant by name, elegant by nature Also known as pink easter lilies this sweetly scented plant is a joy to include in any garden. With their delicate pink petals that transcend into dusky, pink centres, these are a pleasure to behold. This cultivar is outstanding for attracting bees and butterflies, and other vital pollinators and are a perfect accompaniment to borders or patio containers. Choose a sheltered position in moist soil and watch this beauty thrive and breathe life into your garden. More Longiflorum Lilies ‘Vuvuzela’ 7) Longiflorum Asiatic ‘LA’ Hybrid Lilies Created from a combination of Asiatic and Easter lilies, this cultivar is the real “showgirl” of the bunch. What they lack in fragrance they make up for in colour, with pinks and yellows, creams and whites and almost everything in between. These lilies are an exciting crossbreed of Asiatic and Easter lilies and perform well in gardens thanks to how quickly they multiply. Our Favourite LA Hybrid: L. ‘Kentucky’ A taste of the exotic With their burnt orange complexion, sprinkled with a shower of burgundy spots, the Kentucky lily is striking to behold. Like most lilies, this variety also favours full sun to partial shade and will bring a vibrant boost to your garden. If you are keen to add a taste of the exotic to your garden, then the Kentucky lily is just what the doctor ordered. With its leopard-like patterns and colours to die for, this plant will be a focal point of your garden and will truly bring it to life. More LA Hybrid Lilies ‘Brindisi’ ‘Forza Red’ ‘Courier’ ‘Royal Sunset’ ‘Corallo’ ‘Golden Tycoon’ ‘Indian Diamond’ ‘Pink Brush’ 8) Turk’s Cap Lilies Last, but certainly not least, the Turk’s cap lily is easily recognisable by its lovely blooms which dangle down its stalks. Blossoming in colours of pink, purple, orange and red, Turk’s cap lilies are the perfect way to add a little romance into your garden. Our Favourite Turk’s Cap: Martagon Lily Beautiful and balletic Martagon lilies can grow up to nine feet in height and are the perfect way to add towering colour, texture and structure to your garden. This cultivar requires rich soil, and though they prefer full sun, they will still do well in dappled shade. This lily’s gorgeous flowers give the impression of dancing ballerinas and bring a sense of serenity and peace to any garden. More Turk’s Cap Lilies ‘Lady Alice’ ‘Henry’ ‘Scheherazade’ (again!) L. speciosum var. rubrum ‘Arabian Night’ ‘Orange Marmalade’ Let Loose With Lilies By now you should know all you need to know about the abundance of lily varieties and the many shades and colours they can provide to your garden. Lilies are surprisingly easy to grow and contribute significantly to your garden’s personality. With so many options to choose from, it’s easy to see that there is a perfect lily for any garden, no matter its size. So let loose and start planting, and soon your garden will be filled with the exquisite beauty of lilies.
Learn more
Three Peony Specialists Share Growing Tips For Beginners: 'Good Drainage Is Most Important'
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Peony Types Peony Care Propagation Common Problems Peonies, also known as “Pentecost Roses”, are recognisable by their gorgeous fluffy blooms which come in varying shades of colours, shapes, and sizes. Popular among brides for bouquets and table decorations, these flowers are effortlessly romantic and often have a wonderful fragrance. Peonies are perfect for border displays and though they are slow-growing, these popular plants are absolutely worth the wait. In these guides, we collaborate with THREE incredible Peony specialists: Koen Hurtekant – Founder of The Peony Society. Carol Adelman – President of the Pacific Northwest Peony Society and Owner of the plant nursery Adelman Peony Gardens. Kate Blacker – Owner of the specialist nursery Little Budds Peony Farm. “They are beautiful, live a long life, and don’t take much care,” says Carol. “There’s also such a range of peony forms and colours!” Overview Botanical Name Paeonia Common Name(s) Peonies, Polish Roses Plant Type Perennial Flower Native Area Asia, Europe, North America Hardiness Rating H6 Foliage Large leaves often divided into multiple leaflets Flowers Showy, large flowers in a range of colours When To Sow May, June, October Flowering Months April, May, June Peonies are long-lived perennial plants meaning they will come back year after year. In fact, some peonies have been known to thrive for over a hundred years. “What’s not to love about a peony – the big blousy girls sell themselves!” says Kate. “The cutting season is six weeks long, which means we can easily work around this crop.” Blossoming from late spring to early summer their flamboyant flowers come in many shades including white, pink, coral, maroon, red and yellow – to name but a few. There are three common types of peonies: tree peonies, which are tall and woody; herbaceous peonies which will die back each winter; and intersectional peonies which are hybrids crossed between the two. “Nowadays, the intersectional cross between the shrubby and herbaceous groups is easily obtainable for every gardener,” says Koen. “This cross offers the flowers, leaflets and fragrance of the shrubby group, but they die back yearly like the herbaceous types.” Though not all types are scented, as with the colour, peonies also have a wide range of fragrances, from soft and sweet, to citrus, and even somewhat spicy. Peony Types The best way to choose your peony is by choosing which flower shape and colour you would like. Peonies have four arrangements for their bowl-shaped blooms, so you have a choice of how simple or extravagant you want to go. Single ‘Early Scout’ peony This peony’s bloom is mostly cup-shaped with no more than one or two rows of large petals that curl inwards, surrounding its many yellow stamen. Semi-Double ‘Coral Sunset’ The semi-double peonies are close in appearance to the single peonies, but instead, have two to three inward-curving rows of petals. Double ‘Pink Giant’ In double types the petals often overlap, and in their thin and sometimes-ruffled appearance, which is typically filled to the centre. Koen remarks that stamens are usually absent or sometimes hidden between the petals. Carpels are often gone, and sometimes smaller ones are hidden beneath the voluminous petals. “From semi-double to full double there are some varieties that are ‘in-between’,” says Koen. Anemone-Form This type can have either single or semi-double-like blooms. “The centre carpels are surrounded by transformed stamens,” remarks Koen. “These transformed stamens no longer contain any pollen, which is the main difference with singles. “Here the stamens are transformed into petal-like structures. If they are very small we call them ‘Japanese’-form flowers, if they are wide they are ‘anemone’-form, and if they are the same colour as the outer petals and fully transformed into normal petals you have a ‘bomb-double’.” Peony Care After you’ve planted your beautiful peonies, you will need to give them ongoing care to help them survive and thrive. Watering For the first year after planting and while they are establishing themselves, regular watering is key. However, being such a deep-rooted plant, when fully established, regular and routine watering will not be necessary and you only need to focus on them in particularly dry weather. “By far the most important factor in peony care is good drainage,” Koen states. “Peonies cannot stand growing in places that remain too wet for a long period of time.” Ensure the water can drain away freely in whatever spot you’ve planted in. Feeding “Peonies are rather hungry for nutrients, so regular fertilisation will be beneficial,” advises Koen. Simply applying a general-purpose fertiliser each year in springtime will give your peonies the boost they need to flourish. Follow the instructions on your chosen fertiliser. We also recommend that you then add a layer of garden compost or manure, this will help preserve moisture and prevent weeds. If using manure, take care to avoid covering the centre of the plant to prevent damage to the buds. However, when using compost, Koen advises that you are fine to cover the whole plant. Staking Staking is optional and won’t be necessary for all peonies but for cultivars with large flower heads, using a stake to support them will prevent the stems from bending and breaking. Deadheading Deadheading should be done with secateurs after flowering, but it really depends on which type of peony you’re growing as to whether you’d want to let it go to seed. “Almost all peonies are lactiflora,” says Koen. “They don’t set seed because they are mostly doubles and those usually don’t have the carpels needed to make any seed. “Hybrids can make seeds, it just depends on what variety you have. “If you grow a single lactiflora you might usually expect many seeds.” Regardless, deadheading spent flowers will prompt your plant to divert its energy from seed production to generating more blooms – so it’s a worthwhile activity for most gardeners. Older Plant Care Peonies are long-lived plants, and a well-cared-for peony could easily outlive you! With an older plant, if you find the flowering is less reliable then you can give it a new lease of life by lifting and dividing in late winter. Propagation Once your peonies are thriving you may want to share them with friends and family or plant a few more elsewhere in your garden. Because peonies do not breed true, the best way to increase them is through division which should take place in late autumn. Peonies that are grown from division will be identical in colour, shape and fragrance to their parent plant and you can expect them to begin flowering around two years after dividing. Sharing the love of your peonies through propagation is relatively straightforward. Once uprooted, remove all foliage and lift the clump with a spade, leaving as many roots intact as possible. As carefully as you can, gently wash off the soil, exposing the roots and buds. Using a sharp knife or secateurs remove sections of the crown, leaving each section with a minimum of three dormant buds as well as some roots attached. Share with your friends and family, or choose the perfect spot in your garden and replant. The buds should be 2.5cm below soil level. Common Problems Being such a hardy plant, if conditions are right, peonies will rarely run into trouble. That said there are a few things you may come across. Botrytis “Botrytis is the main disease of peonies,” says Carol. “Botrytis can look like lettuce that has been too long in the refrigerator and it can make a sore at the base of the stem or cause the bud to turn black. “If you see evidence of botrytis, remove the affected part and spray with any fungicide recommended for black spots on roses. “In addition, you can cut the foliage to the ground in autumn and put the foliage in the garbage, not the compost. “This way, if there were any botrytis spores on the plant, then they won’t be there to attack the plant as it comes out of the ground in the spring.” To prevent this disease, Carol recommends that you should provide a spot for your peonies with good air circulation – allowing the foliage to dry after a rainfall. Deep Planting & Shade If planted too deep or in shade your peonies may not be able to produce flowers. If this occurs then wait until autumn and then proceed to move your plant to a more suitable position and take care to plant them no deeper than 2.5cm. “I have found that planting too deeply is the most common cause of peonies not flowering, particularly for recently planted peonies that have not yet flowered,” shares Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly. “For an established peony that has stopped flowering, a division is the most likely restorative.” This will ensure your peony has a chance to thrive but do be aware that once moved it may take up to two years for your peony to flower. Prolonged Drought Though hardy, if your peony experiences long periods of drought, this can cause poor flower bud growth and buds may not even open. If a long dry spell occurs then mulch around the base of your plant and water regularly.
Learn more
Growing Cyclamen With The Experts - These Are The Varieties And Care Tips To Get Started
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Cyclamen Varieties Planting Cyclamen Soil Requirements Where To Plant When To Plant Planting Out Plant Hardiness Cyclamen Plant Care Pruning References Cyclamen is a cute and attractive family of flowers that bring reds, pinks, purples, and whites to your outdoor spaces. They’re hardy perennials, making them popular choices for British gardeners, and, depending on the varieties you choose, they can bring colour to your garden year-round. This plant is so popular in some places that its populations have been depleted by illegal collection, making them endangered.1 By growing cyclamen in your garden you could be contributing toward the preservation of at-risk species, which is an exciting prospect.2 We have collaborated with Trevor Wiltshire from The Cyclamen Society in writing this guide. Trevor has a particular fondness for cyclamens, citing his interest in the species: “They are permanent perennials that need very little care and provide interest and colour for 11 months of the year when a wide range of species are grown”. Overview Botanical Name Cyclamen Plant Type Perennial Flower Native Area Europe / Mediterranean Hardiness Rating H1C – H4 Foliage Leaf shape varies Flowers Various, usually pink, white or purple When To Sow January, February, March, October, November, December Flowering Months January, February, March, April, May, June, August, September Cyclamen from UK garden centres – whether you buy the plant or the seed – is propagated responsibly, so you don’t need to worry about contributing to the threat wild cyclamen plants face. Cyclamen is a genus of plant that contains 24 species; all of which are perennial.3 The family is native to Europe, with some species as far-reaching as Iran and eastern Africa. While all species share the same broad colour palette, there are aesthetic differences between them. Depending on the look you’re going for, different species will appeal more than others. When choosing cyclamen for your garden, be sure to know what it will look like throughout its lifespan. These plants are perennial, meaning they’ll come back year after year. Rushing the decision, or buying seeds without researching the adult plant, could be a mistake that sticks with you for a long time. Cyclamen Varieties “I adore hardy cyclamen because they are amazing little plants for autumn into winter and early spring, often growing in quite difficult places where not much else grows, like shade under trees,” shares Garden Designer Noel Kingsbury. “They are small scale but are wonderfully indestructible and unusual little flowers.” The cyclamen genus is smaller than some other garden plants, with just 24 species. When asked about his favourites, Trevor notes: “Cyclamen coum for mid-winter colour and foliage interest, C. graecum in walls (Cornish hedges) and raised beds to give nice foliage and then good flowers in late summer. “C.hederifolium as a ‘bomb proof’ all round garden plant in shade and woodland.” Here are a few favourites to get you started: C. ‘Laser Rose’ Despite the futuristic name, this soft-pink cyclamen brings a calming energy to outdoor spaces. It thrives in partial shade, with a south, east, or west-facing aspect. It’s not fussy when it comes to soil: you can grow it in sand, clay, chalk, or loam; at most accepted pH levels. After planting it’ll take 2-5 years to reach its maximum height of about half a metre. This variety will burst forth with pink flowers in winter. C. ‘Sierra Scarlet’ These flowers have a lovely blend of crimson and vintage pink, providing an engaging splash of colour in the winter months. The variety grows quicker than the ‘Laser Rose’, taking one year to reach its full height and spread of about half a metre each. C. rhodium (Peloponnesian Cyclamen) This variety sports lantern-shaped flowers with light pink tops and rich, deep pink bottoms. They’re smaller than previous cyclamens, reaching a height and spread of about 10cm over 1-2 years. You’ll enjoy a pink explosion in springtime if you go for this variety. Planting Cyclamen This guide details how you can grow cyclamen from bulbs, or via transplanting – growing from seed is a whole different ball game, and we’ve not covered that here. You can buy young cyclamen plants from traditional garden centres, online merchants and everywhere in between. You can also buy young plants that need to be transplanted, a process which is quite easy. Soil Requirements All the varieties featured above are happy in loamy, sandy, clayey, or chalky soil. Cyclamens prefer well-drained soil but are not fussy when it comes to pH levels. Where To Plant Although different varieties flower at different times, try to avoid mixing varieties in the same area. Intuitively, this seems like a way to alternate flowering seasons and guarantee colour year-round, but what actually happens is that one variety will dominate – and eventually kill off – the other. With this in mind, you’ll want to leave about a metre between varieties. Because cyclamen is quite a low-profile plant, many gardeners use it as ground cover for roses or other taller plants. Most varieties will thrive in partial shade, with west, south, or east-facing aspects, and a bit of shelter. The space underneath a tree can often be ideal, as Horticultural Consultant Colin Skelly explains: “I tend to plant Cyclamen underneath deciduous trees or shrubs because they provide a sheltered environment in summer and winter, provide leaf mulch and a bright winter environment where they can flower whilst most other plants have died back.” Again, double-check the preferences of the varieties you’re considering incorporating into your garden. When To Plant To give your cyclamens the best shot, you’ll want to plant them in autumn, winter (if the ground allows), or early spring. These plants shouldn’t present too much of a challenge, as long as you choose a spot that’s not too sunny. Planting Out As we’re discussing either bulbs or young plants in this article, your first step when planting cyclamen is to dig a hole. Then, whack in a bit of gravel and sand at the bottom to provide drainage. Cyclamen bulbs are prone to rotting if they’re overwatered, so this is important. Next, plop the bulb at the bottom of the hole, or push down the young plant until it’s securely in the ground, then gather soil around the top and water thoroughly. It’s recommended that you wait until your bulb (or tuber) is showing roots. This helps you to distinguish the top from the bottom and improves the chance of successful growth. Plant Hardiness Amongst the varieties above, the hardiness rating varies between H1C and H4. You can grow plants with the former rating outdoors in summer, with a preferred minimum temperature range of 5-10°C. Plants rated H4 are suited to the UK climate year-round, excepting very extreme conditions. Depending on your location and needs, your ideal hardiness rating will vary. We always recommend researching the properties of the specific varieties you’re interested in, and choosing the most suitable. Cyclamen Plant Care This plant thrives with even watering and cool temperatures. It will die back out of season: the leaves will die away, and it may look like hope is lost for another year of colour, but be patient. The bulbs will flower again, and the plant will return to its former glory. Mulching in winter with leaf-mould will nourish the soil around your cyclamens and help them to grow back big and strong next year. Pruning Remove all dead plant matter during the down season for aesthetic reasons. The cyclamen family is bursting with attractive and relatively easy-to-grow plants that will bring colour and excitement to your garden. A careful selection of varieties will ensure visual interest year-round, and with a little bit of care, you should be on track for healthy and rewarding plants. We hope this cyclamen growing guide has been a useful starting point. Enjoy your gardening! References 1. Cyclamen – Cyclamen hederaefolium. (n.d.). Brickfield Spark. Retrieved March 14, 2023, from https://www.brickfieldspark.org/data/cyclamen.htm 2. Yesson, C., & Culham, A. (2006). A phyloclimatic study of Cyclamen. BMC Evolutionary Biology, 6(1), 72. https://doi.org/10.1186/1471-2148-6-72 3. Cyclamen L. (n.d.). Kew Royal Botanic Gardens. Retrieved May 15, 2023, from https://powo.science.kew.org/taxon/urn:lsid:ipni.org:names:32774-1#children
Learn more
Grow Happy And Healthy Campanula With These Care Guidelines From Gardeners
IN THIS GUIDE Overview How To Grow Campanula Propagation Soil Requirements Planting Plant Care Pruning Common Problems References Campanula, Latin for ‘Little Bell’, is a plant that brings a cascade of colour to any garden. It offers bold blues and purples, right the way through to proud pinks and whites. You’ll also hear this plant called the ‘Bellflower’, alluding to the bell shape the flowers take before opening. When they do eventually open, they reveal enticing star shapes, making Campanula a pleasure to look at throughout the year. Overview Botanical Name Campanula Common Name(s) Bellflower Plant Type Perennial Flower Native Area Temperate and subtropical northern hemisphere Hardiness Rating Mostly H5-H7 Foliage Some evergreen, some deciduous Flowers Bell-shaped flowers, often blue, purple, pink or white Flowering Months June, July, August Technically speaking, the term ‘Campanula’ refers to plants from the family Campanulaceae that are known as bellflowers.1 Other plants from the family include lady bells, harebells, and hundreds more. Campanula plants have a lot of versatility: some are deciduous, while others are evergreen; some are bushy, while others form clumps. C. carpatica You can find annual, biennial, and perennial varieties, ranging in size from 5cm to over 2 meters. None of the plants in this guide reaches quite that height, but more on that later. How To Grow Campanula Campanula is a relatively easy plant to introduce to a British garden. Its growing conditions are not particularly fussy, so as long as you take a bit of time to understand the best time and place to plant it out, you should be good to go. It’s very hardy, too – all varieties of Campanula sit between H5 and H7 on the RHS Hardiness scale – making them suitable for all but the harshest of climates in the British Isles. C. ‘Loddon Anna’ For the vast majority of British gardeners, these plants can therefore be grown as perennials. Propagation You can propagate most varieties of Campanula by division in spring and autumn, or by basal cuttings in spring. C. carpatica can be propagated by seed. It’s good to divide your plants every three years or so to prevent overcrowding. Soil Requirements Chalky, loamy soil suits all varieties of bellflower. Some types will take to soil with sand or chalk present, too. All varieties can grow in alkaline or neutral soil, and a few can tolerate mild acidity. In terms of drainage, this plant prefers moist but well-drained soil. Particularly sensitive varieties will require well-drained soil, but these are in the minority. Planting When To Plant The best time to plant bellflower is in spring – once the soil has started to warm after winter. To give your plants a head start you can grow them in seed trays, beginning a few weeks before the last frost is expected. Where To Plant There is no hard-and-fast rule for where to plant a bellflower. Some types – like ‘Stella’ – like exposure. Others (‘Loddon Anna’, ‘Prichard’s Variety’) prefer shelter. Others, still, can thrive in either condition. Because of this, different varieties prefer different aspects – it is best to understand which variety you have chosen to grow and the conditions it prefers. There is one trait all bellflowers share, however: none will thrive in full shade. Planting Out If you’re planting seeds directly into the garden, use a dibber to create a hole a couple of centimetres deep. Water thoroughly and stay attentive until seedlings start to appear. Planting from a division is easy, too: just dig a hole large enough for the plant and its root system, place it in, and cover it over. Make sure it is planted at the same depth as it was previously, as planting too deep can cause damage. Plant Care Bellflower responds well to a bit of compost in spring, then again in mid-summer, so just make sure you water thoroughly after each dressing. Mulching around the base of your plant will strengthen growth and maintain healthy soil conditions. Leave a couple of inches in diameter around the stems. Pruning Pruning requirements differ between bellflower varieties. With some – like the C. carpatica – you don’t need to prune at all. Others (‘Stella’) need to be cut back after flowering to maintain their optimal shape. Pruning other varieties will prevent them self-seeding, and will encourage a second wave of flowers after the first wave begins to dwindle. Common Problems You can minimise the likelihood of your plant contracting most diseases by keeping it generally healthy. This means: Keeping the soil well-watered, so the plant has moisture. Keeping the soil well-drained, so the plant doesn’t have too much moisture. Ensure enough access to sunlight. Leave space between plants to reduce density and overcrowding. Don’t use too much nitrogen in your fertiliser. Slugs & Snails No one likes slugs or snails, but sadly they like pretty much every plant in your garden. Both are active year-round and will munch unsightly holes in the leaves and stems of your bellflower plant. Keeping them at bay is the goal of all gardeners, but their prevalence makes it an ongoing job. You can use products like Nemaslug to target both, as Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly shares: “Nemalsug is a parasitic nematode in solution applied to the soil. Rather than a chemical action, this method of control uses a specific parasite to target slugs and snails. We are changing our thinking to regard slugs and snails as a part of the garden ecosystem instead of as pests, using targeted use of non-chemical controls or just accepting damage as the price of providing a food resource for other species.” Other gardeners create barriers of crushed up eggshell or attempt to make beer traps that will lure in and drown slugs and snails before they damage your garden. Aphids Another ubiquitous garden pest, aphids suck sap from plants they inhabit. They’re visible to the naked eye, so scanning your Campanula occasionally offers protection from unexpected infestation. You may also see symptoms of their sap-sucking first: curled or distorted leaves, black sooty moulds, and generally poor health. Other less pestilent bugs can keep aphids at bay, and at certain times of the year, this removes the need for any other intervention. If it’s the wrong time of year or you don’t trust these other bugs to keep things in check, pesticides can be deployed. Powdery Mildews If you find a coating of dusty white powder on the leaves of your Campanula, it may be a victim of powdery mildews. This disease is caused by fungal infection, and although many plants are susceptible, it’s interesting to note that the fungus is different in each case. The best way to prevent infection is to destroy infected leaves when they fall from the plant. This will get rid of the spores that cause infection, as will pruning out shoots that are infected. Various pesticides are available, too. Keeping the plant healthy will reduce the risk of powdery mildews. Rust This is a very common garden disease which will reduce your plant’s vitality, then, if left unchecked, gradually kill it off. It can affect leaves, stems, or flowers – so keep a careful eye on your whole Campanula plant. Removing affected leaves can help keep early infection at bay, but if you remove too many you’ll damage your plant. If things have progressed to this stage, fungicides can be used to prevent further spread. Make sure not to compost any infected material, as the spores are durable and may infect other parts of your garden. References 1. Introduction to the Campanulaceae. (n.d.). Bellflowers and Lobelias. Retrieved March 13, 2023, from https://ucmp.berkeley.edu/anthophyta/asterids/campanulaceae.html
Learn more
These Experts Have Been Growing Daylilies For Decades - Here Are Their Top Tips
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Hemerocallis Cultivars Planting Hemerocallis Daylily Care Common Problems References This plant has a fantastic reputation thanks to its attractive and colourful flowers, tolerance of drought and heat stress, and the general ease of looking after it. You’ll also hear this plant called ‘Daylily’, alluding to its flowers that appear one morning and quickly shrivel away, only to be replaced shortly after by another equally vibrant flower. For this guide, we interviewed Steve Amy, Membership Chair at The American Daylily Society and Paula Dyason, Co-Owner of the specialist plant nursery Strictly Daylilies. “Daylilies are very hardy in most climates and require very little care. If they receive 4-6 hours of sunlight daily and occasional watering, preferably by rainfall, they will thrive. “For the most part, they are disease free and seldom invaded by destructive insects”, Steve says. Gardeners growing Hemerocallis can expect yellows, oranges, golds, purples, and all manner of other bright and beautiful colours. This ever-evolving symphony of flowers and colour appeals to seasoned and novice gardeners alike. Overview Botanical Name Hemerocallis Common Name(s) Daylilies Plant Type Perennial Flower Native Area East Asia Hardiness Rating H6 Foliage Some evergreen, some deciduous Flowers Large and dramatic flowers in many different bright shades When To Sow March, September Flowering Months June, July When To Prune June, July A perennial plant that flowers between late May and early August, bringing vibrant splashes of warm colour to any garden. Hardy growth makes this a non-fussy plant well-suited to gardeners of all abilities. “To me, hemerocallis cultivars are the ideal perennial, as they are easy to establish without being invasive,” says Paula. “The abundant diversity of the daylily is clear to see in the plant’s colour, size and height.” The clump-forming properties of many Hemerocallis cultivars make it well-suited to garden borders and beds, but you’re not limited to growing it in these locations. Hemerocallis Cultivars “With nearly 100,000 registered cultivars available worldwide there’s a lot to select from”, Steve explains when pressed about his favourite varieties to grow. “Our garden is a registered ADS Display Garden which requires certain conditions of having a minimum count of different cultivars and different forms and varieties in order to qualify.” “We don’t have a particular type; dormant, evergreen, semi-evergreen (which refers to the type of foliage and how it performs in the autumn/winter months). “All of these grow well for us in our zone. There are also several bloom forms and we don’t have a specific preference for those either. “We like nearly all forms and colours.” H. ‘Lark Song’ “Single, double, spider, polymerous, and sculpted are the official forms and I love them all,” adds Paula. “There are also a huge array of bloom sizes, from 1-16 inches, whilst the scape heights can be as short as 5 inches but some can reach to 80 inches. “With so many to choose from, there is indeed a daylily for every garden, every taste and every area of the United Kingdom!” Despite such a wide range of cultivars, we’ve attempted to shortlist just some of the varieties that have received the RHS Award of Garden Merit.1 This commendation is given to plants that do particularly well in British gardens, making them an excellent place to start. ‘Ruby Spider’ The “trumpet-shaped, yellow-throated” flowers boasted by ‘Ruby Spider’ are indicative of what you can expect from Hemerocallis: a summer of colour and confidence, tumbling out of countless flowers. You have to see the colour profile of this flower to believe it. Eponymous ruby fades gradually into a dazzling yellow, with broad, flat petals making it impossible to resist. ‘Serena Sunburst’ Proud, buoyant yellow give sunburst its name. Looking at this flower, the comparison makes sense. During warm weather, you’ll find a light peachy pink border, lending a bit more depth and elegance to the petals. The shape is different from the ‘Ruby Spider’, with a narrower and slightly more rounded profile. ‘Serena Sunburst’ makes a fine addition to borders, beds, and beyond. ‘Burning Daylight’ From sunburst to ‘Burning Daylight’, Hemerocallis is definitely the plant to choose if you want the same range of colours in your garden as those created by the sun in the sky. This cultivar plays mainly with orange, with broad, inviting flowers. It works well by itself or arranged with other types of daylily. ‘Pink Damask’ Sharing its name with a famous upholstery pattern, ‘Pink Damask’ effortlessly evokes the same refined sophistication as suites that use the fabric. The clue is in the name with this cultivar. Prepare yourself for a regal pink blossom, drawing on multiple colours from the palette without ever looking gaudy. This cultivar will work well in similar settings to other Hemerocallis. ‘Stafford’ The ‘Stafford’ is a quintessential example of the appeal of Hemerocallis. This daylily combines red, orange, and yellow in a way that will melt the heart of even the most disinterested gardener. A great way to liven up any area of your garden. ‘Venusian Heat’ Elegant red and yellow. This daylily cultivar doesn’t bring anything too radically novel to the table, but it is another fantastic demonstration of why we love this plant. This cultivar will work well standalone, or alongside others. Planting Hemerocallis When planting a Hemerocallis, you can expect it to grow up to a metre in height, with a spread of 10cm to a metre. Most cultivars will grow to a maximum spread somewhere around 50cm, over two to five years. This is a hardy plant, and it’s hard to go too far wrong when cultivating one. Pretty much all cultivars have a hardiness rating of H6; they will stay healthy and strong in the UK in temperatures as low as -15°C. Soil Requirements This is a flexible, versatile plant that isn’t fussy when it comes to growing conditions. In fact, it can grow well in some poorer-quality soils that other plants may struggle with. “Although daylilies are extremely carefree, they will be most beautiful with adequate moisture and appropriate nutrients,” Paula explains. All cultivars above will do best in clay, loam, or chalk. Certain cultivars can tolerate sand, too: ‘Ruby Spider’, ‘Serena Sunburst’, ‘Tuxedo Junction’, and ‘Sir Modred’. All require moist but well-drained soil and can tolerate acid, alkaline, or neutral pH levels. “A problem I see with people growing daylilies is over-fertilising,” warns Paula. “If growing in soil directly in the ground, it is always advisable to have a soil test prior to adding fertiliser, then treat as suggested.” Where To Plant Your Hemerocallis will need full sunlight to grow its best, so make sure to plant it somewhere south or west-facing. “Hemerocallis is a great choice for a full sun spot,” shares Horticultural Consultant Colin Skelly. “I’ve used them in a range of soils and they invariably both spread densely and flower profusely to provide an almost maintenance-free garden plant.” Growing your plant in light shade won’t kill it, but the flowering will be less vibrant and plentiful – avoid planting in full shade. If possible, plant somewhere that will get five or six hours of sunlight per day. When growing darker-coloured varieties, you may want to bear in mind that shade in the afternoon will lead to better colour retention. When To Plant For best results, plant your daylily in spring or autumn. This means ideally in April, or in the few weeks between late September and the end of October. Planting Out You can buy daylily plants from seed, or pre-grown in packets – if choosing the latter, be aware they will need more attention early on. You shouldn’t plant them out directly. Instead, pot them in compost, keep it moist, and keep somewhere cool until they’re growing well. Plant out your tended daylily in the spring or autumn, as per the previous section. Growing from seed is easy: just plop them in holes around 2cm deep, and keep well-watered until seedlings appear – this should take about a fortnight. Be aware that growing from seed means you’ll have to wait longer for flowers. Expect this to take anywhere up to three years. Daylily Care Improving the soil with general-purpose fertiliser is a good way to boost lacklustre growth. Mulch – compost or manure – will keep in soil moisture if your plant is struggling to get enough. Propagation Daylilies are ripe for propagation. Their ability to cross-pollinate relatively easily compared to other flowers means that you can create your own hybrids. To give this a go, you’ll have to manually pollinate a female plant with the pollen of a male one. There’s a chance a seed pod will develop, and if it does, you can plant the seeds as instructed in the previous section. After a couple of years, you’ll be able to see whether your matchmaking worked! Pruning Compared to other plants, Hemerocallis needs very little in the way of pruning. It’s only advised out of necessity when you are in an area prone to gall midge (more on this later). Otherwise, pruning is purely an aesthetic consideration. Common Problems There are a few pests that like to make their home on Hemerocallis plants. “Deer, rabbits and other vegetation-eating animals will eat the foliage, blooms and buds. “The insects will damage the blooms and foliage which will not kill the plant but rob you of the beauty”, Steve Amy shares. “Animal repellents are effective in keeping them away and are not always toxic to the plant. “Insect repellents or killers also work, but they can harm plants and are only to be used when an infestation is severe”. When you welcome this flower into your garden, it’s a good idea to familiarise yourself with the risks and their symptoms. This way you can nip any issues in the bud (if you’ll excuse the pun). Aphids Although they’re small, these pests can wreak massive amounts of havoc on your daylilies. If you get an infestation, you’ll find large colonies of tiny bugs living on the underside of your plant’s leaves. To satisfy their voracious appetites, aphids feast on sap. Once this is drained, Hemerocallis begins to wilt and lose its usual enthusiasm. Not only that, but a byproduct of their presence can attract other pests. Your best course of action is to spray plants with water and insecticidal soap. This should dislodge small infestations, but for bigger ones you may have to turn to pesticides. Vigilance is a good policy: you can usually spot and remove aphid populations before they overcome your plant. Slugs & Snails You’ll find that Hemerocallis is not exempt from these slimy visitors, the bane of every gardener’s life. Slug and snail remedies vary, with each gardener citing their own secret technique. Some people leave small troughs of beer to attract these pests away from their flowers. Others use ammonia solution to discourage them, and still-crueller gardeners use perimeters of salt to dissolve them before they can reach their intended dinner. We wish you luck, whatever solution you decide to use. Glasshouse Red Spider Mite Here is another hungry pest that can cause surprising amounts of damage to your Hemerocallis plant. The red spider mite will suck sap from your plants, gradually depleting them until, if left uninterrupted, they risk an untimely demise. The mites prefer warm weather, so keep a careful eye out in the summer. You’ll see mottled leaves, fine webbing on plants, and weaker-looking petals. Because of their tendency to be in warm places, you’ll be less at risk with plants outdoors than in greenhouses, but we still recommend keeping your eye out. Thrips These bugs, also sometimes called thunder flies, suck sap from flowers for sustenance. Leaves they’ve feasted upon grow dull and discoloured. They’ll also leave waste-products after feeding, in the form of little black spots. Pesticides are recommended for removing thrips – you’ll need to use a few applications to kill bugs and larvae that hatch from any already-planted eggs. Hemerocallis Gall Midge “The worst problem we have in the UK is the presence of Hemerocallis gall midges,” says Paula. If your Hemerocallis has swollen buds that don’t open, you may have been visited by gall midges. These flies lay their eggs on young Hemerocallis flower buds, and the hatched larvae play havoc with the buds’ development. “You can control them by picking off the affected buds, which will be distorted and swollen,” advises Paula. “The buds need to be frozen in bags for several days or burned. Make sure they are dead and do not place on your compost heap or in the green bin.” The RHS advises asking your neighbours to do the same so that the spread can be reduced. Late-flowering Hemerocallis plants are less prone to gall midge because their laying season ends before flowering begins, as Paula shares: “There is no treatment to date for this, but it can generally be avoided by growing varieties that bloom later in the season, as they usually only affect early and early mid-season varieties.” If you’re especially worried about this pest, maybe consider one of the varieties that flowers later: ‘Pink Damask’, ‘Stafford’, ‘Burning Daylight’, and ‘Red Precious’. Hemerocallis, daylily, or whatever you decide to call them, we’re sure this flower will make a fantastic contribution to your garden. They are easy to grow and look after, and draw on an astounding colour palette – from gentle pinks through to rich, hearty reds. References 1. Ornamental AGM Plants. (2021, July). Royal Horticultural Society. Retrieved March 16, 2023, from https://www.rhs.org.uk/plants/pdfs/agm-lists/agm-ornamentals.pdf
Learn more
Secret Agapanthus Growing Tips Shared By Chair Of The RHS AGM Trials
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Habitat & Growing Conditions Planting Agapanthus Agapanthus Care References Agapanthus, or ‘African Lily’, is a popular border and container plant, known for its tall stems ending in spherical flower heads in shades of blue, white and purple, which bloom from mid-summer until early autumn. The Agapanthus plant originates from Southern Africa, and therefore typically prefers a hot and sunny climate. Despite this, it is possible to grow it successfully in many UK gardens, providing you choose the right location, and offer your plants adequate winter protection. For this guide, we interviewed specialist Agapanthus grower Patrick Fairweather. He is the MD of Fairweather’s Nursery, home to a Plant Heritage National Collection of Agapanthus – as well as being Chair of the RHS Agapanthus AGM trials. “Agapanthus reminds me of sunny summer days,” Patrick says. “They used to be just blue and white, but now, with modern breeding, we have a wide range of colours, flowering times and habits.” If you’re prepared to put the effort in, you’ll be rewarded with spectacular displays of exotic-looking blue, purple or white flowers, at an eye-catching height. Some varieties are also evergreen, so will provide attractive green foliage year-round (if not covered for winter). Overview Botanical Name Agapanthus Common Name(s) African Lily, Lily Of The Nile Plant Type Perennial Flower Native Area South Africa Hardiness Rating Typically H5 Foliage Sometimes evergreen, narrow, strap-shaped leaves Flowers Umbels of funnel-shaped blue or white flowers When To Sow April, May Flowering Months June, July, August, September Agapanthus is a herbaceous perennial, and part of the Amaryllidaceae family.1 There are hundreds of cultivars and hybrids within the genus, ranging from 20cm dwarf varieties to ones that grow to 1.5m tall. Although it originates from Southern Africa, Agapanthus has become naturalised in various other countries, including Britain and Australia.2 The flowers of Agapanthus plants are most often shades of blue, but can also be lavender, purple or white. They are trumpet-shaped, and form in large spheres at the ends of tall stems, above the green foliage. The flower heads will prove an instant hit with birds and butterflies into your garden. Other names commonly used for Agapanthus include ‘African Lily’ and ‘Lily of the Nile’ – despite the fact that it’s not actually a lily. Habitat & Growing Conditions Agapanthus’ natural habitat is Southern Africa, where it grows in hot and sunny conditions, with fertile soils. “Agapanthus love full sun and free draining soil that mirror the plant’s native conditions,” says Patrick. Many varieties therefore do not cope well in the cold, and need to be sheltered during winter. Due to its dry natural habitat, Agapanthus can tolerate periods of drought – although you should not allow it to dry out completely. Deciduous vs Evergreen Agapanthus plants can be deciduous or evergreen – the deciduous varieties tend to be hardier, whereas the evergreens are more tender. It is recommended to cover evergreens in winter, or grow them in a container, so that you can bring them into a cool greenhouse to protect them from frost. Planting Agapanthus The best time to plant Agapanthus is in spring, around April time. Try to wait until the last winter frosts have passed – this is especially true for the less hardy, evergreen varieties. Make sure to cover the roots with at least 5cm of soil upon planting. If you want to make life easier for yourself, you can also buy potted Agapanthus plants in summer, from garden centres or specialist growers. Keep them well-watered and mulched, to allow the plants to establish themselves. Agapanthus Care When growing Agapanthus, it is important to choose a variety to suit your situation. Providing your garden is sheltered, and you don’t live in too cold an area, you should be able to grow a hardy, deciduous variety in your garden, without moving or covering it during winter. Fully hardy varieties of Agapanthus include A. ‘Midnight Blue’ and A. ‘Blue Giant’. A. ‘Midnight Blue’ If you don’t have a sheltered garden, or you wish to grow an evergreen variety, your plant will probably need to be moved into a cool greenhouse or sheltered location over winter. It is therefore a good idea to grow less hardy varieties of Agapanthus in containers in the UK. Aspect Agapanthus prefers full sun, so choose a sunny, south-facing spot in your garden in which to plant it or position the container. Soil & Watering Plant in a loam-based compost, and make sure the pot has good drainage, as the plant does not like waterlogged soil. Water the plant regularly during the growing season of the first year – Agapanthus blooms from mid-summer until early autumn, depending on the variety. Once the plant is established, it should only need watering in the case of a particularly hot or dry summer. Fertilising If you’re growing your Agapanthus in a garden border, you can feed it a balanced fertiliser once a year in spring, to encourage blooming. “If your Agapanthus lacks flowers, a high-potash feed should help,” Patrick suggests. If your plant is in a container, feed it a liquid fertiliser every 2 weeks from April to July. References 1. Amaryllidaceae. (n.d.). Pacific Bulb Society. Retrieved March 9, 2023, from https://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/Amaryllidaceae 2. Agapanthus. (n.d.). Kew Royal Botanic Gardens. Retrieved March 9, 2023, from https://powo.science.kew.org/taxon/urn:lsid:ipni.org:names:331131-2
Learn more
You Can Grow Achillea (Yarrow) In Flowerbeds Or Pots - Here's How
IN THIS GUIDE Overview How To Grow Yarrow Container Growing In Flowerbeds Preferred Soil & Watering Common Problems Indoor Arrangements References Achillea plants (AKA ‘Yarrows’) are perennials that have a distinctive look and are very popular with gardeners throughout the UK due to their hardiness and unique beauty. Considered part of the daisy family – yarrows have a variety of colourful flowers and lush foliage.1 Many growers have a fondness for yarrows since they are quite easy to grow and look after and look great when combined with other plants. If you want to grow yarrows, either in your garden or in pots, then you should find the information below incredibly useful. Overview Botanical Name Achillea millefolium Common Name(s) Yarrow Plant Type Perennial Flower Native Area Europe and Western Asia Hardiness Rating H7 Foliage Herbaceous toothed leaves Flowers Small daisy-like flowers in white, pink etc. – grouped in flat-headed umbels When To Sow March, April, May Flowering Months June, July, August Achillea millefolium, or yarrows, are part of the Asteraceae family and are native to the Northern Hemisphere, including the UK, China and the US.2 Today, they’re grown all around the world for their beauty. A. millefolium is the most common type of yarrow plant and has small white, pink-tinged flowers and grows natively throughout Europe.3 How To Grow Yarrow Container Growing Growing yarrows in containers is quite simple, whether you choose to buy established plants, or grow them yourself from seeds. Growing from seed is the cheaper option of the two, and since Achillea germinates very quickly, you don’t need to wait too long to see them flourishing. Achillea does best with exposure to full sunlight, so it’s best to place them in a sunny spot – they can still do well in partial shade too, however. Always make sure you use containers that are big enough to accommodate your plants as they grow. In Flowerbeds If you want to grow yarrow outdoors in a flowerbed, then you have a couple of choices. You can either acquire already established plants and replant them; or use seed or a plant that you’ve grown in a container. If you’re sowing from seed, then the best time to do this would be during the spring or early summer. This will give them time to get established without the need to worry about frost damage or the soil being too saturated. When picking a spot to plant them, you should opt for a position that gets plenty of direct sunlight. This will ensure they flower well and are less susceptible to certain fungal diseases. Preferred Soil & Watering Achillea are not difficult at all when it comes to their water and soil requirements. Generally, they can do very well, even in dry conditions. This means you won’t usually need to water them other than during particularly long dry spells. As for soil requirements – yarrow will do well in most types of soil, even heavy clay soil. Ideally your soil would be light and open, but if not, your plants should still be ok. The main thing to be aware of is that if you’re planting in soil that’s not optimal, then you should make sure you avoid planting them later in the year so there’s no risk of frost damage or the soil being waterlogged while they’re getting established. Common Problems Yarrows are generally problem-free, provided they’re properly cared for. Still, there are certain diseases and pests that can cause issues. Below are some of the most common problems as well as how to deal with them – Rust Rust is a general term for a number of fungal diseases that cause rust-coloured spots to appear on the leaves of infected plants. To prevent rust, you should ensure good air circulation and avoid getting water on leaves. If you notice any plants that are badly infected, then you should dig them up and destroy them to prevent it from spreading. Powdery Mildew Powdery mildew is a fungal disease that affects many different types of plants. When infected, the leaves of the plant will have a coat of white mildew on top of them that’s not dissimilar in appearance to powder. In order to avoid powdery mildew becoming an issue, you should take care when watering plants to ensure that water doesn’t splash up onto the leaves. Adding a layer of mulch is a good way to avoid this – you should also space plants out enough to provide good air circulation. Mealybugs Mealybugs are very small insects that leave behind a white powder on the branches and leaves of plants they infest. They extract sap from the leaves, which results in poor growth. The excretion of honeydew also causes mould – as well as attracting ants. If you notice mealybugs on your plants, then you can get rid of them by either washing them off the surface using water, or, by encouraging the presence of predatorial insects, such as wasps and ladybirds. Aphids In addition to feeding on the underside of leaves, aphids also leave behind a residue that can attract ants, causing even more damage. Thankfully, they are quite easy to get rid of. If you notice them on your plants, then a few blasts of water or soapy water should be enough to remove them (if only for a little while). Spider Mites Spider mites are another pest that can affect yarrow. Despite their tiny size, they can still cause a lot of damage to plants. They multiply very quickly and can damage the foliage of plants considerably. You can usually spot spider mites from the webbing they leave behind. If you notice them on your plants, then blasting them with water should do the trick. Thrips Thrips are very small insects that attack different parts of plants they infest, including the stem, leaves and petals. You can usually spot plants that are infested with thrips by the leaves changing colour, or having a discoloured or silvery appearance to them. You can get rid of thrips by using soapy water. It’s also recommended that you remove any plants that are seriously affected by them to prevent spreading. Spreading / Invasiveness Achillea will usually spread in the wild, but it’s quite easy to keep on top of it when planting in your garden. Certain species are more aggressive and do self-seed readily so bear this in mind when buying yarrow plants. Deadheading in autumn can help prevent the spread of seeds in your garden. Indoor Arrangements Some varieties of yarrow are better than others for indoor vase arrangements, such as ‘The Pearl’ and ‘White Giant’. Always be sure to take cuttings from plants that are healthy and when new growth is coming through in the spring. Be sure to cut the stems at a 45° angle and that you place the cuttings into water as soon as possible. You should also remove any foliage that would sit underneath the vasewater and find a place to put the vase that’s out of direct sunlight. References 1. Achillea millefolium. (n.d.). North Carolina Plant Toolbox. Retrieved March 9, 2023, from https://plants.ces.ncsu.edu/plants/achillea-millefolium/ 2. Achillea L. (n.d.). Kew Royal Botanic Gardens. Retrieved March 28, 2023, from https://powo.science.kew.org/taxon/60436826-2 3. Common Yarrow (Achillea millefolium). (n.d.). iNaturalist. Retrieved March 9, 2023, from https://www.inaturalist.org/taxa/52821-Achillea-millefolium
Learn more
Specialist Begonia Growers Share Their Favourite Tips From The Garden
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Habitat & Growing Conditions Begonia Care Temperature & Sunlight Soil Requirements Common Problems Begonia Origins References The ever-popular Begonia is not a single type of plant or flower – it is a genus comprising over 1,900 species and over 10,000 cultivars.1 Some gardeners may know Begonias as perennials; others as annuals. Flower lovers may go crazy about the vast variety of blossoms; foliage enthusiasts are equally fixated on fancy-leaf hybrids. In our Begonia guides we feature advice from Janeen Randle, President of the Melbourne Begonia Society. “My passion for growing begonias stems from the variety and colour in the flowers and the foliage,” says Janeen. “These plants produce long-lasting clusters of pendulous flowers with various leaf shapes that have interesting colouring, patterning and texture.” Overview Botanical Name Begonia Plant Type Annual / Perennial Flower Native Area South America, Central America, Central Africa and South Asia Hardiness Rating H1C-H3 (sometimes hardier) Foliage Varied genus Flowers Bright blooms in various colours When To Sow March, April, May, June Flowering Months June, July, August, September When To Prune June, July Begonias are herbaceous perennials in their native habitats in the tropical and sub-tropical regions of South America, Central America, Central Africa, and Southern Asia.2 Because they cannot survive a frost, most varieties are grown as annuals in the United Kingdom. However, some varieties can be grown indoors, besides in greenhouses, as perennials. For example, B. semperflorens or wax Begonias are effectively annuals in temperate regions but can live for several years in tropical climates or controlled environments. “If I was going to recommend a houseplant to a beginner, I’m drawn to the various different types of begonia,” shares Mr Plant Geek Michael Perry. B. masoniana AKA ‘Iron Cross’ “They can be a little fussy, as they don’t like to be over or underwatered, but they let you know in a simple way by just wilting a little. “You know then to just give them a little bit of water. You can’t get it wrong with them, they can be divas, but they are easily fixed. They also provide so much colour with their foliage.” Advances in Begonia horticulture occur at a dizzying pace. Wax and cane-like begonias would best be described as petite and cute varieties for beds and small pots, as these plants grow to about 15cm and no more than about 22cm at most. How things have changed! Newer cultivars are big, beautiful beasties; they average 40cm and the tallest reach a height of 85cm. What is more, they branch repeatedly so that besides being big, they are also broad and bushy. As for the blooms and the leaves, they are colourful, striking and vibrant. Habitat & Growing Conditions Begonia mazae f. nigricans For the most part, Begonias are understorey plants that grow in the cool and moist conditions of a rainforest canopy in their native habitats, for example, Cameroon and Malaysia. Some tuberous varieties thrive in dry and cool climes like those of the Peruvian Andes.3 Others grow in the wild on moist, shady slopes. Begonia habitats are the tropical and subtropical regions of South America, Central America, Central Africa, and Eastern Asia, with Southern China, Ecuador, and Cameroon being particular centres of diversity. B. maculata Other countries which boast their own brands of Begonias include Ecuador, Andean Peru, Brazil, Colombia, Venezuela, Mexico, Cameroon, Equatorial Guinea, India, Peninsular Malaysia, Borneo, Southern China, Vietnam, Philippines, and the Koreas. A few Begonias are native only to isolated areas in remote locations such as Sao Tome, the Bolivian Andes, and New Guinea; in contrast, Begonia cucullata grows freely across a huge swath of land in Argentina, Brazil, Paraguay, and Uruguay. The famed Begonia rex cultivars originate from the species which is native to North-East India and Myanmar.4 B. ‘Doublet White’ Regardless of the species or cultivar, the flowers of this genus are monoecious, that is, a given flower on a plant is either female or male. Most varieties are hardy to H1C-H3. Begonia grandis, also known as the Hardy Begonia, is a well-known exception that is winter hardy in temperate regions, being hardy to H5/H6. Begonia Care Caring for Begonia, as one of the most diverse genera, can scarcely be described in a one-size-fits-all section. That said, three essential guidelines hold good for virtually the entire genus. These are: Begonias do not like strong, direct sunlight and do best in indirect or filtered sunlight or bright shade. They are susceptible to frost and must be protected from it. They do best with moderate and regular watering but are averse to wet soil. “Although Begonias do not like wet soil, they also don’t like getting dry and can drop their flowers if they do,” advises Horticulturist Colin Skelly, whose experience includes time as a Skilled Horticulturist and Nursery Manager. Everything else is a variation on these guidelines, apart from specific requirements, such as minimum winter temperatures. Temperature & Sunlight As understorey plants, Begonias generally prefer indirect or filtered sunlight, but stronger sunlight is necessary for Rex Begonia and its cultivars, keeping in mind that the darker-coloured the leaf, the more it can withstand strong sunlight. Most Begonias do well in temperatures of 18-25°C but fare well in warmer temperatures provided they are kept under shade or a natural canopy. Soil Requirements The best soil has a moderate to slightly acidic pH of 5.6-6.5 which is of a loose, rich, loamy type. “The aim is for the horticultural sweet spot of free draining but moisture-retentive soil,” says Colin Skelly. “Add some horticultural grit to your compost to make sure that the compost drains freely and consider using pot feet to aid free drainage.” Begonia aconitifolia Compost may be mixed with the soil; it should preferably contain coir but be free of peat. Common Problems Begonias can become infested by mealybugs and aphids. You can treat either and both by using products like Safer’s soap according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Aphids are a particular menace because of their rapid breeding and harmfulness. Mealybugs on outdoor plants can be eliminated using nature to fight nature. Release ladybugs, lacewings, and mealybug destroyers on the affected plants. These are beneficial insects that prey upon mealybugs. Rex Begonias are particularly susceptible to nematodes. While many nematodes are beneficial and even kill harmful insects, some are parasites that dwell in soil and destroy plants. Garden centres usually stock some products for nematode infestation. A few natural methods exist to eliminate nematodes, such as raising the soil temperature by sealing it off, but these cannot be used on soil inhabited by plants. One semi-natural remedy that can be used to put down a nematode infestation is to put naptha mothballs on the soil, and water plants as usual. Begonias, especially saplings and young plants, are delicacies for snails and slugs so be on the lookout for them and remove or eliminate them promptly so that their numbers do not get out of hand. While waterlogged soil is harmful to almost all plants, even damp soil poses a threat to tuberous Begonia varieties as dampness can bring about rot. Ensure that the soil is drained well and put containers on tiles or wedges so they are off the ground. Although Begonias like some humidity, avoid misting them and do not expose them to overly humid environments to prevent mildew, as Jane Perrone, houseplant expert, explains: “Lots of begonias really like humidity which you can check with a humidity meter. They like a humidity of around 50%, so it is a good plant for a bathroom or something similar. “Begonias don’t like dry air, so don’t place them next to a radiator.” Begonia Origins Begonia brevirimosa The well-known name of one of the most popular plant families memorialises quite an unknown gentleman. Way back in the 1600s, a French ancien regime official by the name of Michel V Bégon served in various ‘intendant’ positions in France’s colonies in the Caribbean. This gentleman was passionate about plants and when he met with naturalist and botanist Charles Plumier, the latter was so impressed with the good intendant that he named a new genus after Monsieur Bégon.5 References 1. The BRAHMS Project, University of Oxford, Department of Plant Sciences. (n.d.-b). Begonia species. Oxford University Plants. Retrieved March 13, 2023, from https://herbaria.plants.ox.ac.uk/bol/plants400/Profiles/ab/Begonia 2. An Introduction to Begonia Species. (2021, December 20). The American Begonia Society. Retrieved March 13, 2023, from https://www.begonias.org/introduction-to-begonia-species/ 3. Moonlight, P. W., & Reynel, C. (2018). Two new species of Begonia from Andean Peru. Phytotaxa, 381(1). https://doi.org/10.11646/phytotaxa.381.1.15 4. Begonia rex Putz. (n.d.). Kew Royal Botanic Gardens. Retrieved March 28, 2023, from https://powo.science.kew.org/taxon/urn:lsid:ipni.org:names:105573-1 5. Schumaker, P. (2020, February 13). The plant named after Michel Begon. UF/IFAS Extension Charlotte County. Retrieved March 13, 2023, from https://blogs.ifas.ufl.edu/charlotteco/2020/02/17/the-plant-named-after-michel-begon/
Learn more
