Growing
Why Bellis Perennis ‘Lawn Daisies’ Are Perfect For A Wild Lawn Or Perennial Meadow
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Common Daisy Varieties How To Grow Lawn Daisies Planting Out Daisy Plant Care References Daisies are one of the native plants with which most people are extremely familiar. They are an important part of British childhood and many will remember sitting on the grass and making daisy chains as a child. There are common daisies growing in many lawns and wildflower meadows across the UK and also many cultivars derived from this native wildflower that offer bedding plants for a range of different growing schemes. Even though it is so common, the common daisy still has the capacity to surprise and there are many things about these cheerful little flowers that you might not know. Overview Botanical Name Bellis perennis Common Name(s) Common Daisy / Lawn Daisy Plant Type Perennial Native Area Europe, including the UK Hardiness Rating H5-H7 Foliage Evergreen Flowers White petals, yellow centres, pink-tinged edges When To Sow June – July Bellis perennis, the common daisy, lawn daisy or English daisy as it is sometimes known, is a common native wildflower and often grows in lawns in British gardens. It is native to western, central and southern reaches of Europe but has now become widely naturalised in most temperate climate regions.1 Even those very familiar with these daisies are surprised to learn that they are edible. The young leaves of these daisies can be eaten raw in salads or cooked, though they can get somewhat astringent or bitter as they age.2 In the garden, daisies can be great additions to a wild lawn or perennial wildflower meadow. They also look good at the front of borders, along pathway edges or in rockeries, and can find a place in a huge range of different planting schemes. Common Daisy Varieties Other than the species type, some interesting Bellis perennis varieties to grow include: B. perennis ‘Tasso’ Series B. perennis ‘Romi’ Series B. perennis ‘Roggli’ Series B. perennis ‘Dresden China’ B. perennis ‘Pomponette Mixed’ A few other common varieties whose names you might recognise: B. perennis ‘Belissima’ Series B. perennis ‘Lower Minety’ You will find that Bellis daisies come in a wide range of different colours and styles of bloom. Many of the above have double flowers that are considered attractive, but remember that double flowers will not generally be as good for the pollinators and other wildlife in your garden as the single-flowered types. These cultivars, like the common daisy, are naturally perennial, but they are often treated as biennials in a garden setting. How To Grow Lawn Daisies These daisies are remarkably easy to grow, whether we are talking about allowing the wildflower to proliferate in a grassy area or cultivating varieties of this species in flower beds or borders. Of course, you do need to provide the right growing conditions in order for these flowers to thrive. Remember to make sure that there is enough sunlight and that the soil conditions are free-draining, as these are really the most important things when growing daisies in your garden. Sowing These daisies’ seeds are best sown when they mature after flowering, in June or July. The seeds are typically sown where they are to grow, sometimes as part of a wildflower mix. Bellis perennis and cultivars of this wildflower often self-seed readily, so once you have them in your garden, you should find that they can spread without your intervention. However, double flowers may sometimes revert to single blooms when self-seeded. Planting Out Bedding-type Bellis perennis cultivars are typically planted out into beds or borders between March and May. These hardy plants can also be planted out in autumn to overwinter before flowering the following spring. Plant Bellis perennis in full sun or partial shade – not in too shaded a position. Soil Requirements When choosing where to sow or plant Bellis perennis, you also need to think about the soil. Fortunately, these plants are relatively unfussy and they do not mind about soil type or pH levels. However, they do require relatively free-draining conditions and do not like saturated conditions or waterlogging. Daisy Plant Care Not much care is required when growing common daisies in a UK garden. The natural native species type will thrive on its own with little to no care and attention from the gardener. Watering & Feeding Daisies can typically thrive with natural rainfall in the ground and will only need additional watering when grown in pots or during prolonged dry spells. For these low-maintenance plants, feeding is not generally required when growing in the ground. However, to promote good flowering, especially if growing in pots, it is a good idea to feed every couple of weeks with an organic, potassium-rich, liquid plant feed. Pruning No pruning is required when growing native lawn daisies, but if you are growing the bedding type, you may choose to cut back after flowering has come to an end for aesthetic reasons. You may wish to deadhead the flowers if you wish to avoid self-seeding and, in any case, with cultivars deadheading can prolong the blooming period. Dividing These daisies can be propagated by means of division, which will also help you to avoid the congestion of existing clumps. You can divide daisies in the autumn after flowering or you can divide the plants during the spring, from March to May. Winter Care Bellis perennis are fully-hardy perennials that can easily survive winter in any UK garden. The species type has an RHS hardiness rating of H7. They will typically (though not always) die back in the winter, but will burst into new growth in the following spring. Common Problems Daisies are generally free from pests but can be infected by rust. You should generally find that as long as you care for your plants correctly and have positioned them in a suitable location, they are relatively easy and problem-free plants. Invasiveness Common lawn daisies were historically often viewed as weeds in a lawn, but there is an increasingly good understanding in the UK that a manicured lawn is not an eco-friendly or sustainable choice and that daisies and other wildflowers are welcome additions. However, they are a valuable native species in the UK, but outside of their range they can be detrimental as non-native, invasive plants. “If you keep a manicured lawn and like your plant beds weed-free, Bellis perennis may not be something you want to encourage in your garden due to its invasive nature,” shares Master Horticulturist Dan Ori. “You may find a cultivated variety of Bellis that can be grown in a pot and deadheaded would be a better option.” References 1. Bellis perennis. (n.d.). Kew Royal Botanic Gardens. Retrieved July 7, 2023, from https://powo.science.kew.org/taxon/urn:lsid:ipni.org:names:184409-1 2. Common Daisy, Bruisewort, Bellis perenis. (2022, April 28). Wild Food UK. Retrieved July 7, 2023, from https://www.wildfooduk.com/edible-wild-plants/daisy/
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Vigorous Bamboo Can Quickly Take Over - Here's How To Remove It (Including The Roots)
IN THIS GUIDE When & Why Bamboo Can Be A Problem Halting Excessive Bamboo Spread Removing Bamboo References Bamboo can be a truly stunning addition to a garden in the right spot, but these vigorous plants can often become more of a problem than a delight. If left unchecked, many types of bamboo can grow and spread at a tremendous rate and could completely take over an area if you do not do something about it. Running bamboo, which spreads by means of long rhizomes that send up new colonies, are usually more problematic than clump-forming bamboo – but both can spread if you are not careful. Difficulty Hard Equipment Required Saw, axe or mattock When To Remove Whenever it has overgrown When & Why Bamboo Can Be A Problem Bamboo can become a problem where it is overly large and vigorous for its location or where it spreads beyond desirable bounds. While bamboos can often be great ornamental plants (and can even provide useful and edible yields in a productive garden), shoots from running bamboo can pop up far from the parent plant. They can breach ground cover membranes with ease and even break through solid barriers like patios, porches or conservatory floors. Clump-forming bamboo, though they will not spread so broadly, can still spread or grow further and larger than you might wish. “Serious consideration should be given before planting a Bamboo due to its invasive nature,” says gardening expert Dan Ori. “Some varieties are not so rampant and will grow in containers, you will just need to keep on top of pruning back roots that poke out and keep them well watered. “I would recommend whenever possible opting for a grass like a Miscanthus or a tree like a multi-stemmed birch or Acer to achieve a similar effect.” Halting Excessive Bamboo Spread If you have a bamboo in your garden that you wish to keep, but which has become a little too large or spread too much you can: Prune tall canes down to the required height in spring. The canes can be cut off to a lower height to restrict their growth upwards, but this will encourage lusher foliage growth. Dig up and separate sections from the edges of a clump or unwanted new colonies manually. Unearth the root systems of the sections of bamboo that you would like to remove and get rid of these, ensuring that you take away as much of the rhizomes below the ground level as you can. With a number of bamboos, you can eat cooked young bamboo shoots in the spring.1 Harvesting young shoots can be one excellent way to reduce the spread of an existing plant and give you an additional yield from your garden. While these will come back each year, harvesting shoots regularly can definitely help keep plants in check. Use bamboo canes for a range of other purposes. Bamboo is a very useful material, which can be used as a sustainable option for a range of different things in your home and garden. By treating your bamboo as a crop, you can harvest plenty of it and keep existing plants in check. After digging out unwanted sections of bamboo that have grown out of bounds, it is a good idea to insert a physical barrier vertically into the soil around the remaining plant to prevent its further spread, while keeping the existing plant. Removing Bamboo In an organic garden, it is never a good idea to use targeted weedkillers. Instead, use physical barriers to contain existing plants or take manual steps to slowly remove and eradicate the plant altogether from your garden. The best option is to take steps to remove an unwanted plant manually, by digging out the existing rhizomes and lifting the plants (or sections of the plants) from the soil. Large bamboo can be challenging to remove, especially if you are dealing with a heavy soil. However, it is worth taking the time to dig around the base of the entire plant with a sharp shade and slowly undertake the laborious work of removing all the rhizomes from the ground. Use a saw, axe or mattock to chop through thick and tangled root systems and remove as much of the plant you wish to eradicate as you can, section by section. Try to make sure that no rhizomes are left behind. Eradicating a vigorous bamboo entirely will not be easy, but by taking the time to dig up and remove as much of the plant as possible – then repopulating the area with dense plant cover of more wanted kinds – you should eventually be able to get rid of the bamboo that you do not want from your garden. References 1. Rd, R. a. M. (2021, May 14). Are bamboo shoots good for you? All you need to know. Healthline. Retrieved August 24, 2023, from https://www.healthline.com/nutrition/are-bamboo-shoots-good-for-you
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In Warmer Regions You May Have A Fighting Chance At Winterproofing Snapdragons
IN THIS GUIDE 1) Grow In A Suitable Location 2) Prune Antirrhinum In Autumn 3) Add A Thick Layer Of Mulch 4) Protect Against The Elements 5) Keep The Soil Moist 6) Remove Any Mulch After Winter Snapdragons are famous for their colourful and charming outward-facing flowers that do indeed resemble a dragon’s head. These cottage garden standards are divided into annual, biennial and perennial types. The vast majority of snapdragon varieties are hardy to H3 and are treated as annuals, meaning that they are hardy only in the milder regions of the UK, such as the southern and south-eastern coasts. Whether you can care for snapdragons in winter depends on whether you have grown them in open ground or in pots – and on your region of the UK. If you live in Scotland, the midlands or a similarly cold region, it would, unfortunately, be a waste of time trying to care for outdoor snapdragons during winter. However, if you live in one of the warmer regions of the UK, you have a fighting chance to winterproof your plants so that they come back the following year. Caring for snapdragons over the winter in the UK requires gardeners to follow these simple steps: Site your snapdragons in an optimal location. In late autumn, prune your snapdragons. Apply a layer of mulch. Try to protect snapdragons from the snow, rain and wind. Moisten the soil from time to time. Remove the mulch after winter and move your potted snapdragons back outside. Explore each step below to try to preserve your Antirrhinum for another year! Difficulty Medium Equipment Required Gardening trowel, secateurs 1) Grow In A Suitable Location If you grow or transplant snapdragons outdoors, then, to begin with, you should site them in an optimal location. This should be in a spot that receives full sun and is sheltered from any strong winds, preferably with a west or south-facing aspect. 2) Prune Antirrhinum In Autumn Near the end of autumn, when the flowering season is over but winter is yet to arrive, prune the plants. Cut off all dead and diseased stems and remove excessively-branching stems. You can cut back the plant by about half. Alternatively, if you are growing your snapdragons in a container, autumn is the time to bring them indoors. Ensure that the room’s temperature remains between 15-20°C for the best results. 3) Add A Thick Layer Of Mulch Apply a 10cm layer of mulch 6-8cm away from the main stem of your snapdragons. A mulch of half-cooked leaf mould would be a good choice. 4) Protect Against The Elements Ensure that the soil does not get overly wet. If you can protect the plants from the snow, wind and rain, then I strongly recommend that you do so. 5) Keep The Soil Moist Do not let the subsoil stay dry for too long, so water sparingly if growing outside. If you’re growing your snapdragons in pots, do not let the subsoil dry out and stay dry – keep it moist. For deciduous varieties, water sparingly so that the roots get the necessary moisture, and for semi-evergreen varieties water lightly so that the soil does not dry out. 6) Remove Any Mulch After Winter The following spring, after the last frost has passed and the soil temperature has warmed up, or as soon as you see fresh green growth, remove the mulch. Gardening expert Dan Ori suggests keeping some horticultural fleece to hand in case of an unexpected late frost. Sometime in spring after the weather has warmed up, with the exact timeframe depending on your region in the UK, put your potted plants out in the late morning and bring them back indoors near sunset for a few days. Once the weather has warmed up significantly, you can shift your potted plants back outdoors.
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Alyssum Sown In Early Spring Should Germinate Quickly And Flower Later That Year
IN THIS GUIDE 1) Prepare The Seed Trays 2) Sow Alyssum Seeds 3) Prick Out Seedlings 4) Harden Off & Plant Out In May Known as Alyssum or ‘Sweet Alyssum’, Lobularia maritima is an attractive flowering plant that is wonderful for growing in pots or at the front of beds or borders. It works well amid other ornamental flowers and can also be a good companion plant for a vegetable garden by providing ground cover and drawing in pollinators and predatory insects to aid in pest control. Fortunately, this is a plant which is very easy to grow from seed. This is a great plant for new gardeners and for growing with kids, with a simple process and relatively quick rewards. Difficulty Easy Equipment Required Seeds, seed trays or pots, growing medium, unheated greenhouse or cold frame Alyssum is best sown inside in late February or March. To grow Alyssum from seed: Fill seed trays with a peat-free seed-starting compost. Sow Alyssum seeds indoors in early spring. Prick out and pot on your seedlings, allowing them enough space to properly establish. Harden off and plant out your Alyssum in May. Read on for a slightly more in-depth outline of this simple gardening job. 1) Prepare The Seed Trays Fill seed trays with a peat-free, seed-starting compost that is moist but free draining. You can purchase a seed-starting compost or make your own, but make sure that it is adequately aerated and light. Ensure that the seed trays have been cleaned thoroughly to reduce the chances of fungal issues taking hold. 2) Sow Alyssum Seeds Sow seeds on the surface of the tray and cover over very lightly with a thin layer of compost. Water the seedlings using a sprinkler rose on your watering can to avoid washing away the seeds. Place the trays in a light, bright location on a sunny windowsill and wait for germination to take place. Your seeds should germinate within 1-2 weeks at the most. Gardening expert Dan Ori shares that as the seeds are tiny, he likes to sow Alyssum in damp compost, covering it with a thin layer of vermiculite instead of compost. When he waters, he waters from below using a tray allowing the compost to soak up what it needs. 3) Prick Out Seedlings Prick out the seedlings when they are about 2cm tall and place them into individual pots in another covered seed bed around 5cm apart. 4) Harden Off & Plant Out In May Harden off and plant out the seedlings where they are to grow in the garden in May. Gradually move the plants for longer and longer periods to a cold frame or unheated greenhouse or polytunnel before moving them outdoors fully, to acclimatise them to the outdoor growing conditions. Plant out Alyssum in a spot with full sun in reasonably well-drained soil. Alyssum will make a good companion plant around the edges of a bed full of a range of spring vegetables. So, if you’ve never done it before, be sure to consider growing some of your own food a go at the same time as growing Alyssum from seed.
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Growing Armeria 'Sea Thrift' - This Plant Needs Near Zero Maintenance
IN THIS GUIDE Overview How To Grow Armeria Armeria Care Common Types References Requiring virtually zero maintenance, Armeria is a tough evergreen that makes do with poor soil and tolerates salt-spray. Displaying foliage rather like brilliant green grass, this prepossessing little plant produces masses of pompom-like flower heads in gorgeous hues for up to three months in the summer. Armerias are justly prized for being impervious to salty air and sea spray and are also rightly valued for being perfect for rockeries and ground cover. However, when those are the lenses through which you see Armerias, you may forget that they are also charming, decorative, flowering evergreens that are terrific in a wide planter or as companion plants. They can also be planted into odd nooks, crevices and holes in walls, as long as they get full sun. Overview Botanical Name Armeria Common Name(s) Sea Thrift / Sea Pink / Cliff Rose Plant Type Perennial Native Area South America and the British Isles Hardiness Rating H4-H5 Foliage Evergreen Flowers Small, cup-shaped flowers held in dense, pompom-like clusters in shades of pink, purple, red and white When To Plant May to June The numerous species in Genus Armeria are native to the entire temperate Northern Hemisphere, the Mediterranean and South America.1 Armeria maritima is native to the British Isles and is a fairly common sight on sea cliffs and other coastal areas.2 Armeria foliage is nothing if not grass-like. Out of season, the plant appears to be slowly-spreading clumps and hummocks of wild grass of a light, bright shade of green – but during the blooming season, it is coated with dense, pompom-like flower heads composed of tiny little flowers, rising well above the foliage. Many of the flowers are nectar-rich, further enhancing your garden by attracting swarms of butterflies and bees. How To Grow Armeria Although you can certainly start Armeria seeds in pots for later transplanting, these steps are superfluous because this plant lends itself to direct sowing. Armeria seeds may be sown in the open ground after the soil has warmed up sometime in spring up until early summer, as well as in autumn, avoiding the warmest and coldest periods of the year. Dampen the soil first. Then, seeds should be nudged by a finger into the soil or placed on the ground and thinly sprinkled over with soil. Keep the sowing area continuously moist until the seeds germinate. Armeria plants should eventually be spaced by about one-half the spread of the variety or by about 20cm for a fuller look. Preferred Aspect These tough plants have no preference as to aspect or exposure whatsoever. All they need is a position in full sun. Soil Requirements & Planting The more nutrient-rich and fertile the soil, the more poorly Armerias will perform. Dense and poorly-draining soils will also not work out. Provide a loose, gritty, gravelly, sandy loam which will drain very well. Armerias may be purposed almost anywhere and used in nooks, rockeries, beds, and holes in walls. Simply transplant this tough plant in late spring to autumn and water it in. Armeria Care Armeria are virtually zero-care plants. They cannot tolerate full shade, poor drainage or overly-rich soil, but these one-time requirements do not fall under ongoing care. Just plant them in full sun in the right type of soil and they’re all set. Watering & Fertilising Armerias are ideal for forgetful gardeners as they require little water. Water young plants regularly but conservatively by merely dampening the ground. In many regions of the UK, mature Armeria plants’ low water needs will be met by rain. However, you should water during prolonged dry spells and periods of hot weather. Armeria do not need to be fertilised and improper feeding may do more harm than good. If you wish to fertilise them, do so once in spring with a pinch of succulents fertiliser or a mix of banana peel and wood ash. Sprinkle or work into the ground away from the roots and water it in. Pruning & Deadheading Another plus point for these no-care plants is that they do not need to be pruned. It is not necessary to deadhead Armerias, but it is you can do so if you want to trigger fresh blooms. Using a pair of scissors or mini-secateurs, snip off the faded flower head’s stalk as close to the ground as possible. I find it easy and efficient to hook the back or lower blade around the stalk, partially close the blades, slide it down the stalk and then snip. This way, there’s no danger of cutting anything you don’t want to cut. Common Problems As long as sea thrifts are positioned in full sun in open ground, these evergreens are virtually disease-free and pest-resistant! The most frequent problems that may arise would be traceable to human error, such as poorly-draining soils and overwatering. “You will normally find Armeria on sale in garden centres from April and these will be found with the herbaceous perennials or in the alpine plant section,” shares Horticulturist Dan Ori. “This is a big clue to Armeria’s preferred growing conditions and where best to plant, as it will thrive in a rockery and well-drained conditions.” Common Types Armeria maritima is the species plant that is native to the UK. It grows to about 15cm tall and the hues of its flowers are on the pink to purple spectrum, typically a bright tone of magenta. Two of its cultivars include: A. maritima ‘Alba’ Bearing pure white flowers, this cultivar has a height of about 20cm and a spread of 30cm. A. maritima ‘Splendens’ Growing to about 20cm with a slightly greater spread, its flowers are of a rich, vibrant, pink hue. And finally – not a native but an import from Spain that has been awarded the RHS’s Award of Garden Merit: Armeria caespitosa This mat-forming species grows to merely a few centimetres tall but spreads to about 30cm. It bears soft, pastel pink flowers at nearly the same level as the grass-like leaves. References 1. Armeria (DC.) Willd. (n.d.). Kew Botanic Gardens. Retrieved August 23, 2023, from https://powo.science.kew.org/taxon/urn:lsid:ipni.org:names:30024238-2 2. Thrift (Genus Armeria). (n.d.). iNaturalist United Kingdom. Retrieved August 2, 2023, from https://uk.inaturalist.org/taxa/60479-Armeria
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Tiny Lobelia Seeds Are Best Sown In Trays - You Might Want To Mix Them With Sand
IN THIS GUIDE 1) Mix The Tiny Seeds With Sand (Optional) 2) Sow Your Lobelia Seeds 3) Grow In A Warm Spot 4) Prick Out Lobelia Seedlings 5) Harden Off & Plant Out Lobelia can be annual or perennial, so there are a range of different types to choose from. However, no matter which type you opt for, it is possible for you to grow these attractive flowering plants from seed. To grow Lobelia from seed: Mix the tiny seeds with some sand to make the job of sowing them a little easier (this step is optional). Sow the seeds onto the surface of a seed tray, plug planter or into pots filled with seed-starting compost; cover lightly with compost. Place the trays or pots in a heated propagator or warm spot to germinate. After germination takes place prick out the seedlings and pot them on. Harden off the seedlings and plant out in late May. I demonstrate each step below, having grown Lobelia ‘Crystal Palace’ – a half-hardy annual – using seeds from Thompson & Morgan. Difficulty Medium Equipment Required Seeds, seed trays or pots, growing medium, propagator 1) Mix The Tiny Seeds With Sand (Optional) Lobelia seeds are extremely small so you may find them challenging to handle. You can see from the image above just how small these seeds are. I found that sowing individually is near-impossible and you will inevitably need to thin out your seedlings soon after germination. To make sowing easier, you can consider mixing the seeds with some fine horticultural sand. 2) Sow Your Lobelia Seeds Sow the seeds on the surface of a seed tray or into pots that have been filled with seed-starting potting mix or a suitable light and free-draining medium made at home. “I suggest sowing into trays to give you the best chance of even seed distribution,” says Gardening Expert Dan Ori. “When handling the seed, I recommend placing the seeds in the palm of one hand, then placing your other hand on top, slightly tilting your hands and rubbing them together moving them across the tray. “It’s similar to how you would spread flour on a surface before making pastry and you can then thinly cover them with compost or vermiculite in the same way.” As I was growing a lot of plants all at once in a heated propagator, I decided to use a plug planter. You can see the resulting Lobelia plug seedling below. Remember: if buying the potting mix, be sure to choose a peat-free option. Cover the seeds over lightly with a little of the medium you have chosen and firm it gently into place. It is best, because of the size of the seeds, to make sure the medium is moist before sowing and to water from below. 3) Grow In A Warm Spot Lobelia seeds require temperatures between 18-24°C for germination to take place, so I have found it best to use a heated propagator – to make sure that you provide the right temperatures. If you do not have one, a sunny windowsill may suffice, but you will see better results if you place some sort of cloche or cover over the top (I find cling film works well) to retain heat. 4) Prick Out Lobelia Seedlings Once the seedlings are large enough to handle, prick out each one and carefully place them into an individual pot filled with a peat-free multipurpose potting mix or homemade equivalent. “The best time to prick out is when they have two sets of true leaves,” shares Dan. “To avoid damaging the stem, make sure you handle the plant by a leaf as it is easier to grow a new leaf than a stem.” 5) Harden Off & Plant Out You should keep the potted seedlings in a frost-free location and only plant them out into your garden once all risk of frost has passed and the weather has begun to warm. I planted mine out in early May and the plant had no problems establishing itself. Flowering should start in early summer and in my case lasted for months – you can see from the image above that the results were beautiful and highly rewarding.
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Learn To Grow Echinops ‘Globe Thistle’ For Both Loose And Orderly Planting Schemes
IN THIS GUIDE Overview How To Grow Echinops Echinops Care Container Growing Common Varieties References The blue or white spherical flower heads of Echinops can bring a sense of the Mediterranean to a garden. Also known as ‘Globe Thistles’, these are plants that can fit in alongside many other Mediterranean plants in a sun-kissed part of a garden. Echinops grown in UK gardens are usually herbaceous perennials that will provide great value in a garden space over a number of years. Most have flowers held in circular heads with a purplish-blue hue, while some cultivars have white flowers. Overview Botanical Name Echinops Common Name(s) Globe Thistle Plant Type Perennial Native Area Mediterranean Hardiness Rating H7 Foliage Deciduous Flowers Spherical blue or white flowers When To Plant May to June Echinops largely come from Southeastern Europe, though their native range also spreads into Asia and some are also found in mountains of tropical Africa too.1 Their common name, ‘Globe Thistle’, comes from their spiny foliage, but though they are called globe thistles, they are not closely related to the true thistle species. The name Echinops comes from the Greek for a hedgehog.2 These plants are prized in gardens for their flowers and their stature. They pair well with a range of other common plants in cottage gardens, gravel gardens for low-water areas, wildlife gardens perfect for pollinators and plenty of other flower beds and borders. They are a good choice for loose, organic, prairie planting alongside other herbaceous perennials and ornamental grasses, but also work well in much more formal and orderly planting schemes. How To Grow Echinops Echinops is relatively easy to grow as long as you pay attention to its basic needs. When positioned and cared for correctly, this plant can certainly make for a great choice for a low-maintenance space. As perennials, they should remain in place and grow back each year over multiple years and these plants can also self-seed readily in a location where they are happy to grow. Sowing Echinops seeds should be sown in March or April. They can be sown indoors in pots or seed trays or in a well-prepared seedbed outside. You can also directly sow the seeds where they are to grow if the conditions are suitable in your garden. Some gardeners also sow in the autumn, but in my opinion, sowing in spring in the UK generally gives better results. If sowing indoors, transplant the Echinops to the garden after the last frosts where you live. Planting Above all else, when choosing a location in which to grow Echinops, remember that, though hardy, it comes from southern Europe and likes Mediterranean conditions. That means planting it in full sun or light shade will get the best results. There are not really particularly hard and fast rules when it comes to spacing Echinops, though generally seedlings are placed around 30cm apart. This may vary a little depending on which variety or variety of Echinops you have chosen to grow. Soil Requirements Echinops need moist but free-draining or free-draining soil and will do best in moderately poor soil which drains very freely. E. ‘Taplow Blue’ Make sure that you dig a generous planting hole for the plants you wish to place in your garden and where the soil is not as free draining, add grit to ensure that waterlogged conditions do not arise. Planting For Pollinators Grow Echinops in your garden and you will soon discover that they are surrounded by bees, butterflies and other pollinators throughout their flowering period. “Echinops are a great plant for pollinators,” states Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly. “Regardless of the cultivar, they are always covered in a range of pollinating insects, persisting into early autumn in most parts of the UK.” These flowers are not native, but they do attract and provide pollen and nectar for a wide range of our native insect life. While it is always a great idea to include a high proportion of native flowers in your garden for the bees and other wildlife, mixing in some non-natives (including Echinops) is not a bad idea and can simply add to the biodiversity within the garden. Echinops Care Once established, Echinops growing in a location that provides the right growing conditions generally will not require a great deal of care. However, there are some key elements to consider. Watering One important element of care is watering. Echinops should be watered in well and watered during prolonged dry spells, especially as they become established. Once established, however, these are fairly drought-tolerant plants. In fact, they can cope much better with dry conditions than they can with overly wet situations, so take care not to overwater your plants. Cutting Back Another of the jobs to do when growing Echinops is to cut them back after the first blooms have faded. This is not only to tidy up the garden but also can sometimes encourage a further flush of blooms to develop. If the plant clumps become too congested, you can lift and divide them to propagate new plants and give the existing plant a new lease of life. Common Problems One of the most common problems when growing Echinops, which are generally trouble-free and not prone to many pests or diseases, is an aphid infestation. Aphids should be welcomed in an organic garden along with their predators who will keep their numbers in check and the ecosystem in balance. In a healthy, organic and biodiverse garden, aphids will rarely get out of control and won’t typically pose a major threat to your Echinops or to other plantings. In terms of environmental problems, poor drainage is perhaps the thing that most commonly derails successful Echinops growing. Making sure that there is adequate drainage in the ground or in containers is one of the most important things when growing these plants. Container Growing You can grow Echinops in pots and they can be good candidates for a container garden. Smaller, shorter cultivars might generally be considered better choices for pots but any cultivar should be fine either on their own or with other plants that similarly like sunny and free-draining conditions. When choosing a container, make sure that it is sturdy enough to stand up and not tip over when growing taller cultivars. A terracotta or clay pot can be ideal because it will not retain water as much as a plastic one. Make sure it allows water to drain out freely at the base so that waterlogging cannot occur. Fill your chosen container with a suitable peat-free growing medium with added grit or sand to improve drainage. A soil-based option is best for perennials that will remain in their pots over multiple years. Note that in pots, as in the garden, Echinops that are taller may require staking or some support, especially if they are grown in a somewhat windy location. Common Varieties Some common varieties of globe thistle to consider growing in your garden are: E. bannaticus E. exaltatus E. ritro E. sphaerocephalus References 1. Echinops ritro. (2021, August 4). Cambridge Botanic Garden. Retrieved July 5, 2023, from https://www.botanic.cam.ac.uk/the-garden/plant-list/echinops-ritro/ 2. All About Echinops. (2022, July 28). Retrieved July 5, 2023, from https://www.americanmeadows.com/perennials/unique-perennials/all-about-echinops
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These Tickseed Varieties Are So Satisfying To Grow And Amazing For Pollinators
IN THIS GUIDE 1) C. ‘Cosmic Eye’ (Big Bang Series) 2) C. ‘Daybreak’ (Li’l Bang Series) 3) C. ‘Golden Dream’ 4) C. grandiflora ‘Calypso’ 5) C. grandiflora ‘Early Sunrise’ 6) C. lanceolata 7) C. ‘Pumpkin Pie’ (Pie Series) 8) C. ‘Red Elf’ (Li’l Bang Series) 9) C. ‘Redshift’ 10) C. rosea ‘Heaven’s Gate’ 11) C. ‘Starlight’ (Li’l Bang Series) 12) C. ‘UpTick Yellow And Red’ (UpTick Series) 13) C. verticillata ‘Grandiflora’ 14) C. verticillata ‘Moonbeam’ 15) C. verticillata ‘Zagreb’ References Coreopsis, also known as tickseeds, can be annuals or perennials if lifted and stored in a frost-free location over the winter. They have charming daisy-like flowers on long stalks that make them popular for summer blooms. Although they are not native to the UK1, they can be good for our native pollinators when included in a garden. “If growing for pollinators, don’t opt for a semi-double or double-flowered cultivar but opt for an open flower form so that pollinators can access the nectar and pollen,” shares Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly. C. tinctoria ‘Mahogany Midget’ Annual tickseed varieties of the species Coreopsis tinctoria will need to be re-grown each year and common types include: C. tinctoria ‘Mahogany Midget’ C. tinctoria ‘Quills and Thrills’ C. tinctoria ‘Radiata Tigrina’ C. verticillata Perennial tickseed varieties will come back each year, with some of the most common options in the UK including: C. verticillata C. verticillata ‘Bengal Tiger’ C. rosea C. tripteris C. ‘Red Elf’ C. ‘Star Cluster’ C. ‘Sweet Marmalade’ C. ‘Uptick Gold and Bronze’ I share more detail underneath with fifteen perennial and annual options worth growing. 1) C. ‘Cosmic Eye’ (Big Bang Series) COMMON NAME(S): tickseed ‘cosmic eye’ HARDINESS RATING: H5 PLANT TYPE: perennial FLOWERS: red and yellow SUNLIGHT: full sun / part shade A tickseed in the ‘Big Bang’ series of cultivars, this is a clump-forming perennial. The flowers, which are great for cut flowers and floral arrangements, are borne abundantly on the plants for a long period over the summer. They have yellow-toothed petals with burgundy red towards their centres. Grow them in full sun or part shade. 2) C. ‘Daybreak’ (Li’l Bang Series) COMMON NAME(S): tickseed ‘daybreak’ HARDINESS RATING: H5 PLANT TYPE: perennial FLOWERS: yellow and red SUNLIGHT: full sun / part shade Part of the ‘Li’l Bang’ series, this Coreopsis is a compact little cultivar. It forms neat mounds around 30-40cm high, bearing yellow and bright red flowers on long stalks for a long period of time over the summer months. 3) C. ‘Golden Dream’ COMMON NAME(S): tickseed ‘golden dream’ HARDINESS RATING: H5 PLANT TYPE: perennial FLOWERS: yellow SUNLIGHT: full sun / part shade The bright yellow daisy-like blooms on this cultivar also flower for a long period well into the late summer. The blooms stand out vividly against the bright green foliage. This is another perennial and compact clump-former, which grows less than 50cm in height and spread. 4) C. grandiflora ‘Calypso’ COMMON NAME(S): tickseed ‘calypso’ HARDINESS RATING: H5 PLANT TYPE: perennial FLOWERS: yellow and red SUNLIGHT: full sun / part shade The yellow flowers on this tickseed variety have toothed petal edges that are maroon towards the centres. These also flower over the summer months, holding the blooms on their long stalks above the lanceolate leaves, which add interest with their attractive variegation. 5) C. grandiflora ‘Early Sunrise’ COMMON NAME(S): tickseed ‘early sunrise’ HARDINESS RATING: H5 PLANT TYPE: perennial / annual FLOWERS: yellow SUNLIGHT: full sun / part shade A popular perennial commonly grown as an annual with semi-double blooms with a vivid sunshine-yellow hue, this coreopsis has large flowers which grow to 5cm across. These blooms remain on the plants for a long period, from spring right through to the late summer. 6) C. lanceolata COMMON NAME(S): tickseed HARDINESS RATING: H5 PLANT TYPE: perennial FLOWERS: yellow SUNLIGHT: full sun / part shade An RHS plant for pollinators, this coreopsis is a bushy and clump-forming perennial with lanceolate leaves and bright yellow, daisy-like blooms. Again, these vivid and cheery flowers are held on the plants for a long period over the summer months. 7) C. ‘Pumpkin Pie’ (Pie Series) COMMON NAME(S): tickseed ‘pumpkin pie’ HARDINESS RATING: H4 PLANT TYPE: perennial / annual FLOWERS: red and orange SUNLIGHT: full sun Part of the ‘Pie’ series of coreopsis, this short-lived perennial plant has vivid flowers with deep orange petals around a reddish eye. These bloom from early summer right through to early autumn above the foliage in mounds around 15cm tall with a 40cm spread. 8) C. ‘Red Elf’ (Li’l Bang Series) COMMON NAME(S): tickseed ‘red elf’ HARDINESS RATING: H4 PLANT TYPE: perennial FLOWERS: red SUNLIGHT: full sun Another option from the ‘Li’l Bang’ series of coreopsis, this cultivar is a compact option, which forms mounds around 30cm high and wide of fern-like foliage above which the large flowers form. These blooms are bright red with golden eyes and they are borne on reddish-green stems. They bloom through summer and into autumn. 9) C. ‘Redshift’ COMMON NAME(S): tickseed ‘redshift’ HARDINESS RATING: H5 PLANT TYPE: perennial FLOWERS: red and yellow SUNLIGHT: full sun / part shade Another great option for cut flowers, this coreopsis has lanceolate leaves above which the flowers bloom throughout the summer. The daisy-like flowers are wine-red in hue, held on stems that are yellow to creamy depending on the temperatures. 10) C. rosea ‘Heaven’s Gate’ COMMON NAME(S): tickseed ‘heaven’s gate’ HARDINESS RATING: H6 PLANT TYPE: perennial FLOWERS: pink, red, yellow and purple SUNLIGHT: full sun This is a perennial that is rhizomatous and clump-forming. It forms low mounds of fern-like foliage above which the abundant flowers are held on their longer, branching stalks through the summer months and often well into autumn. The flowers are pink with deeper purple towards the centres and yellow central disks. These flowers are around 4cm across. Grow in full sun in a sheltered spot. 11) C. ‘Starlight’ (Li’l Bang Series) COMMON NAME(S): tickseed ‘starlight’ HARDINESS RATING: H5 PLANT TYPE: perennial FLOWERS: white and red SUNLIGHT: full sun / part shade Another of the ‘Li’l Bang’ series of coreopsis, ‘Starlight’ is an eye-catching tickseed to grow. It has white flowers, with burgundy red towards the centres, and golden eyes. Again, these bloom for a long time over the summer months above the lanceolate leaves. 12) C. ‘UpTick Yellow And Red’ (UpTick Series) COMMON NAME(S): tickseed ‘baluptowed’ HARDINESS RATING: H3 PLANT TYPE: perennial FLOWERS: red and yellow SUNLIGHT: full sun / part shade One of the ‘UpTick’ series, this Coreopsis is another compact option, with a bushy, clump-forming habit of growth. The mid-green leaves are elongated and lance-shaped and the flowers are large and daisy-like, with pale yellow and deep burgundy-red coloration. Like other tickseeds, they flower for a long period in summer and into autumn. 13) C. verticillata ‘Grandiflora’ COMMON NAME(S): tickseed ‘grandiflora’ HARDINESS RATING: H5 PLANT TYPE: perennial FLOWERS: yellow SUNLIGHT: full sun / part shade This fairly compact coreopsis, a herbaceous perennial, grows to around 60cm tall. It has fern-like finely divided foliage which is almost hidden by the many bright yellow, daisy-like flowers that bloom above it in the summer months. Grow in full sun or part shade. 14) C. verticillata ‘Moonbeam’ COMMON NAME(S): tickseed ‘moonbeam’ HARDINESS RATING: H5 PLANT TYPE: perennial FLOWERS: yellow SUNLIGHT: full sun / part shade This compact perennial grows around 50cm or less in height and spread and comes alive in the summer months, with the prolific lemon-yellow blooms held just above the finely divided foliage. Grow in full sun or partial shade in fertile and moist yet well-drained or well-drained soil. 15) C. verticillata ‘Zagreb’ COMMON NAME(S): tickseed ‘zagreb’ HARDINESS RATING: H5 PLANT TYPE: perennial FLOWERS: yellow SUNLIGHT: full sun / part shade Another coreopsis with cheery, yellow, daisy-like blooms, this cultivar bears its flowers in the early summer. It is a herbaceous perennial which requires moist but well-drained or well-drained conditions, in full sun or part shade. References 1. Coreopsis L. (n.d.). Kew Royal Botanic Gardens. Retrieved July 5, 2023, from https://powo.science.kew.org/taxon/urn:lsid:ipni.org:names:60437222-2
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Phillip Harkness On Yellowing Rose Leaves - 'Prevention Is Better Than The Cure'
IN THIS GUIDE 1) Spider Mite Infestation 2) Black Spot 3) Nutrient Deficiencies 4) A Lack Of Nitrogen 5) Underwatering The Soil 6) Overwatering Or A Lack Of Sun Roses are perhaps the most cherished of flowering bushes because their blooms are the most prized of flowers. Unfortunately, little that is cherished and prized comes easily and roses are no exception – meaning they can succumb to many a pest, disease and deficiency. One symptom of many problems is yellowing leaves. Not only are yellow leaves on a rose bush a disconcerting sight, they always indicate an issue that is best diagnosed and treated urgently. Underneath we lay out six causes of yellow leaves on rose bushes and also make some suggestions for treatment. 1) Spider Mite Infestation Spider Mites are one of the more common types of pests that rose bushes are vulnerable to. If the infestation is an advanced one, the rose bush, unfortunately, may not be saveable, but caught early enough, spider mites can be eradicated. First, wash off all the mites and strands with jets of water from a hose. Next, apply a plant insecticide strictly according to the maker’s instructions. Finally, release biological controls such as lacewings, mite-feeding ladybirds and such. 2) Black Spot A fungal disease, black spot is one of the more common, as well as one of the more serious, diseases that can affect a rose bush. “Plants are no different to people, prevention is better than cure,” shares Philip Harkness, from Harkness Roses. Fortunately, it can be treated with fungicides. Apart from treating the disease, you will also need to take steps to prevent it from spreading. “Milder, wetter counties are perfect conditions for black spot,” says Horticultural Consultant Colin Skelly. “If you find that your rose is prone, rather than repeatedly spraying with fungicide, remove it and replace it with a cultivar that has better resistance.” 3) Nutrient Deficiencies As the problem could be either iron deficiency or alkaline soil or both, the best course of action is to first test the soil pH. If the soil pH is higher than 7.5, then the reason is alkaline soil, but if it is up to 7.0, then the problem is iron deficiency (or possibly magnesium or sulphur deficiency). You could treat each issue independently or apply sulphate of iron which will resolve both problems, albeit over time. Dilute and use according to the manufacturer’s instructions. As a more immediate treatment, apply chelated iron as a foliar spray. It is a niche product that is made by specialist manufacturers. Apply foliar sprays near dawn in the late evening or on overcast days. 4) A Lack Of Nitrogen A nitrogen deficiency in the soil can also be caused by an alkaline soil pH. First test the soil pH with a pH meter. If it is 7.5 or higher, then you should acidify the soil. The quick and easy way to acidify soil is by amending the soil with ericaceous compost, particularly if the problem is not acute. “If you have alkaline soil or acidic soil, I would recommend not trying to grow roses rather than trying to tackle the underlying soil conditions, which will always prevail in the end,” says Colin. “Alternatively, search for a rose that will tolerate a wider range of conditions – most rose nurseries will have some options.” If the soil could use some added fertility and richness, you could kill two birds with one stone by amending it with well-rotted chicken manure. If the soil is very alkaline, mix sulphate of ammonia into the compost or manure. It will not only lower the soil pH, but it will also introduce Nitrogen into the soil. If the soil pH checks out and the problem is a nitrogen deficiency, blood meal will do the trick in normalising it. The rose bush will take time to recover, so bear this in mind. 5) Underwatering The Soil Drench the soil. Afterwards, be sure to water the bush properly and not let the soil stay dry for any great length of time, especially during hot weather. If you have eliminated all the preceding possibilities in trying to diagnose the cause of yellow leaves on your roses, then the final issue might be harder to diagnose. 6) Overwatering Or A Lack Of Sun Roses need to be planted in a full sun spot. If your rose bush is growing in the shade, it will need to be transplanted to a sunny spot or the objects or elements that are throwing shade on the bush will need to be adjusted. Though roses unquestionably need water, the soil should not stay wet, let alone waterlogged. These shrubs need to be rooted in well-draining soil that is light and not dense or clayey. If the problem is overwatering, the solution is easy enough. Although you cannot prevent all the problems that may affect a rose bush, a defensive approach is well-suited for rose growers. “Don’t be afraid or frightened of the task,” says Philip. “Plants, not just roses, have the will to live and survive. As long as you try to help your garden plants with careful cultivation, they are hard to kill.” You have to get factors like sunlight, soil constituents, soil moisture, soil pH and proper nourishment right for roses more than for most other shrubs because roses are more vulnerable to a variety of pests and diseases.
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