Growing
Early Spring? Start Planting Out Your Dahlia Tubers After The Last Frost Date
IN THIS GUIDE When To Plant Dahlia Tubers 1) Select & Source Your Dahlia Tubers 2) Decide Where To Grow Your Dahlias 3) Prepare The Containers 4) Plant Your Dahlia Tubers 5) Add Organic Mulch References Dahlias are popular flowers found in many UK gardens. They can be grown from pot-grown plants, from seed, or from tubers. In this guide, we will cover how to plant out dahlia tubers for the best results. Dahlia tubers are best planted indoors into containers from February to March, though they can also be planted a little later directly into the garden. To plant dahlia tubers you will need to: Select and source your dahlia tubers. Decide where to grow your dahlias, remembering that they need a warm, sunny spot with adequate drainage. Prepare a container and growing medium if starting indoors. Plant dahlia tubers, making sure to plant them the right way up, just below the surface of your growing medium. Mulch around the plants with an organic material. Difficulty Easy Equipment Required Dahlia tubers, mulch, containers, compost When To Plant February to March (indoors), April (outdoors) When To Plant Dahlia Tubers Dahlia tubers can be planted indoors early in the season in February or March or they can be planted directly into the garden in mid to late April, after the last frost date in your area. The former option is best when space inside your home or in a greenhouse is available, as this will give dahlias a head start and allow them to get growing earlier. 1) Select & Source Your Dahlia Tubers Of course, if you would like to plant dahlia tubers, then the first thing that you will have to do is select varieties and source some tubers of the dahlia varieties that you would like to grow. “Growing your dahlia from a healthy stock is so important,” says David Hall from the specialist plant nursery Halls of Heddon. “If the tubers don’t look right, appear stunted in habit or the leaves have severe mottling, then they may be affected by viruses and should be pulled out and removed.” There are, of course, many different cultivars of this garden favourite that you might consider growing in your garden, with flowers in a range of styles, shapes, hues and sizes. There are no fewer than around 120 dahlia cultivars that have an RHS Award of Garden Merit, so these reliable choices could be a good place to start when trying to select dahlias for your garden.1 2) Decide Where To Grow Your Dahlias As well as thinking about which dahlia tubers you would like to plant, you should also consider where you would like to grow them. Dahlias can work well in a range of beds or borders and some smaller dahlias can also potentially be grown in containers, which is where Elaine from Dachshund Dahlias grows hers: “We grow all our dahlias in pots, as the tubers would be lost if they remained in the ground in our Scottish location. “The ground is too wet and lacks proper drainage, meaning the tubers would rot.” When choosing where to plant them, be sure to remember that dahlias need as warm, sheltered and sunny a spot as possible. They will do best in rich, fertile soil or growing medium that is moist yet free-draining and can tolerate neither extremely dry conditions nor waterlogging. 3) Prepare The Containers If you decide to start tubers indoors in pots to get a head start on the growing season, then you will have to prepare containers with a growing medium for your dahlia tubers. “In some parts of the UK, dahlias can be left in the ground over winter, but in most areas, they will need to be dug up and stored,” shares Horticultural Consultant Colin Skelly. “When replanting in spring, giving the roots a head start by potting and keeping in a glasshouse or cold frame makes a big difference to how fast they will establish once in the ground.” Plant the tubers into a multipurpose compost that is peat-free or a homemade equivalent. “If you are growing from a cutting or a dormant tuber, you will need to start off in a small pot and continuously pot on into the next size until you are finally using a 7.5-litre pot,” advises June Nash, from The National Dahlia Society. “Use good quality compost and give an occasional feed.” The size of the pots is not as relevant, as they will only be in the containers for a short time before you plant them out into their long-term containers or their positions in the garden. However, good drainage is still important. 4) Plant Your Dahlia Tubers When planting dormant dahlia tubers in pots of multipurpose compost in the spring or when directly planting them where they are to grow, make sure that you have them the right way up, with the uppermost linking area positioned just below the surface of the growing medium. The shoots will appear from this area where the sausage-like tubers are linked. If you are starting your dahlias in pots, you will then transfer these to their final growing positions outdoors after the risk of frost has passed. When planting these dahlias out into your garden, they should again be planted at the same depth that they were in their containers, with the top of the tubers where the shoots grow from just at the soil surface. For most dahlias, the tubers should be planted in the ground with a spacing of around 60cm between them. Softwood cuttings can also be planted out at around the same time. Rooted cuttings should also be spaced at 50-60cm apart, with the top of the compost in their pots just a little below the soil level. Remember that there are larger and smaller dahlias and you should think about the size of the specific dahlia variety you are growing when determining plant spacing. 5) Add Organic Mulch One final thing to think about after planting dahlia tubers outside, in the ground or in containers is that you should add an organic mulch around them to provide fertility, reduce moisture loss and suppress weeds. Just make sure that the mulch surrounds but does not touch the stems of your plants. References 1. Dahlia. (n.d.). Royal Horticultural Society. Retrieved March 29, 2023, from https://www.rhs.org.uk/plants/dahlia
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Feeding And Mulching: Experts Weigh In On Meeting Roses’ Nutritional Needs
IN THIS GUIDE When To Feed Roses Why You Should Fertilise Roses The Importance Of Choosing Organic Options Healthy Soil Equals Happy Roses Feeding Roses Growing In The Ground Feeding Roses Growing In Containers Mulching Roses References Roses are among the most popular flowers grown in the UK and consistently top charts of peoples’ favourite flowers. Fortunately, these favourites come in a wide range of varieties to suit almost any garden and they are generally relatively easy to grow. “The sheer amount of blooms and all the variations in fragrance, flower form and all the variations make me so passionate about growing roses,” says Stewart Pocock, a Partner at the specialist nursery Pocock’s Roses. “They are a truly diverse genus of plants.” Meeting roses’ nutritional needs and feeding roses what they need is one key concern for those who grow them. Feeding roses is something we’d typically consider before planting each year in the spring. Here are some of the key pieces of information you need to know: Feed roses each year in March-April. Mulch after feeding with a rich organic matter. Choose organic options to avoid harm to the environment and wildlife. Container-grown roses need feeding more than those in the ground. Read on for more information about keeping roses in top condition. Difficulty Easy Equipment Required Fertiliser, mulch, watering can When To Feed Spring or throughout the flowering season When To Feed Roses Roses are typically provided with a growing medium or soil that provides a good proportion of the nutrients that they need. Choosing the right site to grow roses is, therefore, the number one thing that can be the difference between success and failure. That said, roses are hungry plants, which do require a lot of nutrition to grow and flower well. This means that they perform best when they are fed at least once a year and mulched well with organic matter after feeding. Roses in the ground should usually be fed and mulched in March or April each year. Those in containers will require more work and are typically provided with a liquid plant feed every second week from the middle of spring to late summer. Why You Should Fertilise Roses “The most important thing when caring for roses is to feed them at least twice a year to help keep them strong and healthy,” says Chris Styles, a partner at Style Roses. “Regular fortnightly spraying during active growth before you see problems is recommended. You can alternate with natural bee-friendly products like Sulphur Rose, Uncle Tom’s Tonic and SB Plant Invigorator. “These fertilisers will vastly improve the performance of your roses and eliminate most disease issues.” Roses can often survive without any feeding at all when they are growing wild in a healthy soil. Our own native rose varieties are extremely resilient and hardy and can cope with a wide range of soil conditions. However, most of the roses grown in UK gardens are hybrid types or those that have been bred over generations to have the optimal visual appeal. These plants are somewhat fussier than wild roses and are very hungry plants that often need additional feeding to perform at their best. In many instances, where the soil is healthy and fertile, a good quality organic mulch can be sufficient to keep roses growing and blooming well. “Alongside a good watering and feeding regime, a good mulch also provides a barrier from pests and diseases,” says Ben Stirton, the nursery manager at Country Garden Roses. However, where the soil may be lacking in nutrients or where the growing conditions are not ideal, feeding is often essential to get the right results. The Importance Of Choosing Organic Options Unfortunately, for many gardeners, the usual response when growing roses is to reach for non-organic, synthetic fertilisers. These can sadly often do more harm than good and are a poor choice for wildlife and the environment. What’s more, roses themselves may suffer or fail to thrive due to over-feeding with synthetic fertilisers. Whenever you are seeking sustainable and eco-friendly options for feeding roses, it is important to restrict yourself to organic options. Healthy Soil Equals Happy Roses The key thing to remember about feeding roses is that roses take their nutrition from the soil or growing medium in which they grow and they need a good quality and fertile soil or growing medium to thrive. One interesting thing that goes on below the soil around roses is that roses form a symbiosis with mycorrhizae, which form fungal networks stretching out from the roots of the roses into the surrounding soil.1 This type of connection occurs with many plants and it significantly increases the amount of soil the plants can access for nutrients and water, expanding their root system.2 Often, ensuring healthy soil means building healthy fungal networks that aid roses and other plants meaning that less intervention from us is required. When feeding roses, the first step is always to ensure that you have healthy soil that is rich in organic matter and supports and sustains a wide variety of life, including the microbial life that helps roses and other plants to thrive. “Using mycorrhizal fungi granules at planting time on all roses makes a huge difference to the establishment and the performance of roses,” says Chris. We can maintain healthy soil by disturbing it as little as possible, protecting it with living roots, ground cover and mulches, and, of course, by gardening organically at all times. Feeding Roses Growing In The Ground When roses are growing in the soil, they can tap into the resources present in the soil in which they grow since, thanks to mycorrhizae, they can draw on nutrients even beyond their own root systems. This means that they can often be content with much less feeding than roses that are grown in containers, confined beds or planters. However, as mentioned above, especially where the soil may leave something to be desired, feeding can definitely be important in order to achieve the right results. Often, feeding roses more than once a year is recommended, but if your soil is healthy, it is generally only necessary to feed once a year in the spring by sprinkling organic fertiliser around the base of the plants. “Feed in spring with a slow-release fertiliser, such as osmocote,” Stewart suggests. It can be helpful to understand which nutrients might be lacking in your soil in order to understand which organic fertiliser you might add and you can often use things from your home to make your own feeds rather than buying anything. “I feed my roses annually with a granular feed like national growmore, tonk’s rose feed or fish blood and bone,” shares David Allison from the NSALG. “I then add a high potash liquid feed during the season to encourage good strong colours in the blooms.” To name a few examples, you might add: Egg shells for calcium. Banana peels for potassium and magnesium. Fish bones for a number of micro-nutrients and phosphorus. These and other organic additions can be added to a planting hole when planting new roses or crushed, chopped and spread around the roses in spring before you mulch around the area with your primary slow-release feed and mulch material. “From late May onwards, feed weekly with either a liquid rose fertiliser or a liquid tomato fertiliser,” adds Stewart. “We use Uncle Tom’s rose tonic regularly and this helps immensely with flower production.” Feeding Roses Growing In Containers “Roses have a big appetite and if you satisfy the need for food and water, you will get more flowers,” Philip from Harkness Roses says. Roses growing in containers, as mentioned above, need more feeding than those growing in the soil because they do not have the wonderful web within the soil to fall back on. Therefore, they will be more dependent on us, as gardeners, to meet their needs. “Use good quality compost and add a slow-release fertiliser in spring,” says Philip. “During the growing season, use a liquid feed once every two weeks or so.” The fortnightly feed for roses before buds form should be a general-purpose, relatively balanced organic liquid fertiliser, such as compost tea. You can make your own compost tea as long as you make your own compost at home. Once the flower buds form, it is then best to switch to a potassium-rich organic liquid plant feed. This is also something that you can make yourself at home, using any potassium-rich leaves from plants like comfrey or other dynamic accumulators of potassium. Mulching Roses Mulching roses is, for me at least, the most important stage when it comes to caring for roses and making sure that they have the nutrition they need throughout the year. I always mulch roses with good quality homemade compost or manure after any other fertilisers are added in the spring. I replenish this mulch each spring, on the surface of the soil or on top of the growing medium in containers. “A good pruning regime and an annual mulch of organic matter which will do three things,” says David Allison. “It will provide nutrients to the roots as it decomposes, act as a weed suppressant and help to retain moisture in the soil.” The mulch not only protects the soil and provides slow-release fertility throughout the summer as the mulch breaks down, but it also helps to suppress weed growth, thereby ensuring that roses do not have as much competition to contend with and are able to grow strong. References 1. Mycorrhizal Fungi. (n.d.). David Austin Roses. Retrieved March 20, 2023, from https://www.davidaustinroses.co.uk/products/david-austin-mycorrhizal-fungi 2. Mahr, S. (n.d.-e). Mycorrhizae. Wisconsin Horticulture. Retrieved March 20, 2023, from https://hort.extension.wisc.edu/articles/mycorrhizae/
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Six Dedicated Rose Growers Share Expert Advice For Planting And Ongoing Care
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Common Types How To Grow Roses Planting Out Your Roses Ongoing Care For Roses References Roses are a favourite with many gardeners and for very good reason. “I couldn’t live without my roses – a cop-out, of course, because there are so many kinds, but it’s the species that has given me the most joy over the last 50 years,” shares Elaine from The 3 Growbags. Throughout our guides to roses, you will find advice from SIX outstanding experts in the industry, each of whom we interviewed individually: Philip Harkness – Co-Owner of Harkness Roses. Chris Styles – Partner at Style Roses. Ben Stirton – Nursery Manager at Country Garden Roses. Colin Dickson – Owner of Dickson Roses. Stewart Pocock – Owner of Pocock’s Roses. David Allison – Vice Chairman of the RHS Fruit, Vegetable and Herb Committee. “The rose is an exciting plant,” says Philip. “It is a species that has developed over millennia in the wild and we have harnessed the diversity, adaptability and beauty of the rose by hybridising new strains and varieties.” These adaptable climbers and shrubs work well in many different gardens and fit in extremely well in many British gardens of many different styles. “No other flowering garden plant delivers so many blooms over the summer and into late autumn and lasts for so many years,” adds Chris. “Of course, there’s also the great and differing fragrance you get from so many of them.” Overview Botanical Name Rosa Common Name(s) Rose Plant Type Perennial / Shrub / Climber Native Area Asia, Europe, North American, Northwest Africa Hardiness Rating H6 (can vary between species) Foliage Deciduous or semi-evergreen Flowers Large, often fragrant flowers in a range of colours and forms, often followed by hips When To Plant November to March (bare root) Roses are woody perennial flowering plants in the Rosa genus, in the Rosaceae plant family.1 There are over three hundred different species of rose and literally thousands of cultivars that have been grown and developed over time.2 “Roses are incredible at this time of year (in the summer),” shares Bunny Guinness, a Landscape Architect. “‘James L Austin’ is probably my favourite variety at the moment. It has these lovely purple-magenta flowers that just go on and on. It’s a lovely bushy variety.” There are two species of wild rose native to the UK – R. rugosa and R. canina. Numerous different garden roses descended and hybridised from both native and non-native species and are now grown in gardens throughout the British Isles. Common Types There are so many different roses to consider growing that it can be helpful to narrow down your choices to a particular type. “My favourite rose to grow varies with my mood,” explains Philip. “There is so much beauty in so many different roses and there is such diversity in the genus that there is the perfect variety for almost every situation. “I think my favourite is the next one that I see. There is beauty in all of them.” You might consider: Climbing roses Rambling roses Shrub roses Hybrid Tea and Floribunda roses Patio and Miniature roses Ground-cover roses Understanding these different types, and their preferences and characteristics can help you find the right options for your garden. “I personally like growing climbing roses, though if you ask anyone else in the nursery they will all have their own favourites,” says Ben. “Climbing roses take up a relatively small amount of bed space, but with careful pruning and regular deadheading, you can achieve an amazing display of flowers over structures or up walls. “Some of the best are highly scented and are bee friendly too.” The type you choose will also dictate pruning and other important elements of their care. “Hybrid Tea & Floribunda Roses are easy to look after and, if pruned hard each winter, grow back to manageable heights of around 1-1.2m and produce wonderful displays of repeat flowering large long-lasting double flowers,” Chris Styles adds. “Many will produce over 100 blooms when in the main flush and they work really well planted together en masse in large rose beds or when grown as container plants.” How To Grow Roses If you would like to grow roses another major decision is to consider where those roses will thrive. Understanding hardiness, sunlight requirements and preferred soil & drainage are absolutely crucial in choosing the right roses and the right location in which to grow them. Hardiness Most roses are H6 hardy, which means that they are perfectly able to withstand winter temperatures across the whole of the British Isles, even during more severe winter conditions. Preferred Aspect Most roses will flower best when they receive at least 4 hours of sunlight each day, meaning that they will not do very well if they are in an extremely shady spot in the garden with a north-facing aspect. Roses can be grown in sites with a south, east or west-facing aspect. Some roses will thrive in the sunniest south-facing positions, while others will do better with at least some light or dappled shade. It is important to think about the characteristics of specific roses when deciding exactly where to place them. When looking for a suitable spot, it is best to avoid extremely windy or exposed locations, though some roses can certainly withstand fairly exposed conditions. Preferred Soil & Drainage Roses are not fussy about soil type or pH, but they do require soil that is reasonably free-draining, does not dry out entirely and remains moist over the summer months. “Use a soil-based compost such as John Innes no. 3 and lighten it up with a little multi-purpose compost,” says Stewart, when discussing what compost to use for potted roses. It is especially important to make sure that the soil is rich, fertile and contains plenty of organic matter in order to give a newly planted rose the best chance of successful establishment. Prepare the site by adding plenty of homemade compost or well-rotted manure to the area. “Ground preparation before planting is key,” shares David Allison. “Remove any trace of perennial weed roots and add lots of organic matter, as roses prefer a rich, moisture-retentive but well-drained soil. “Also, give them plenty of space to allow good airflow to avoid a build-up of diseases.” Planting Out Your Roses Once you have selected and prepared a suitable spot to plant your new rose, the process of planting the rose is relatively simple. However, it is important to plant roses carefully as a lack of care can lead to small mistakes that might result in the slow establishment of your new rose shrub. Dig a planting hole deep enough to accommodate the roots of the rose you have chosen that is at least 2 times as wide. In some cases, adding a mycorrhizal additive to the planting hole upon planting may be beneficial, though in some areas the beneficial collaboration between rose roots and fungi may occur naturally without the need for human additions.3 Place the rose into the hole, teasing out the roots and spreading them out as evenly as possible around the base of the plant. It is especially important to make sure that you tease out the roots of pot-grown plants as these may otherwise fail to spread their roots as quickly or effectively and may, therefore, find it harder to find enough water in the summer heat. It is absolutely crucial to check that the graft union on your rose is at and not below the soil level. The graft union is where the rootstock is joined to the scion cultivar. Placing the graft union below the soil is said to increase the incidence of rose dieback. Once the rose is in position, firm the soil back around the plant, making sure that there are no air pockets around the roots. “Ensure the plants are well firmed in after planting so that the plant’s delicate feeding root hairs are not broken by wind damage,” says David. Water the rose in deeply and well, making sure that excess water can drain away freely, then add a layer of organic mulch around the new rose to give in the best possible start. The organic mulch will add slow-release fertility, conserve moisture in the soil and help to suppress weed growth. Ongoing Care For Roses Roses in the right positions in the first place will be relatively easy to care for over time, especially once they are well established in their growing positions. “Look after your plants, examine them regularly, prune out dead flowers, feed as needed, mulch annually and rectify any issues or evidence of pests and diseases, prune out dead flowers, and you will enjoy your roses for many years to come!” says David. Watering Roses will require more watering during their first summer as they become established than they will tend to do once fully established and mature. “Ensure your rose plants never go short of water, especially the first year after planting, until they get established,” says David. They will also, of course, need to be watered more frequently when growing in pots or other containers rather than in the ground. Once roses are well established in most British gardens, roses in the ground will not usually require additional watering except during extreme heat waves and dry spells. When watering is required, make sure that you water deeply around once a week for plants in the ground and daily when roses are in containers, rather than little and often. Deep watering encourages roses to develop deeper roots and become more resilient, meaning that they will be able to cope better during dry spells in future. Overwintering Roses are usually H6 hardy so will not require any special winter care. They can happily survive in your garden over the coldest part of the year. Most are deciduous, but some are semi-evergreen and can hang on to some or all of their leaves throughout the year. Companion Planting One other important thing to think about when choosing where to grow roses is what you will grow alongside them. Fortunately, roses make great companions for a huge range of other flowering plants and bring in pollinators to benefit many other plants close by. “Grow salvias near your roses,” says Gardener Designer Manoj Maldé. “The sulphur in the scent of salvias means that when they warm up, they release a natural fungicide which helps to keep roses healthy, and mildew and blackspot free.” Other great companions for roses are too numerous to name in this guide, but it is great to experiment with native perennials that bloom just before, at the same time as or just after roses as companions, to increase the visual appeal and nectar for pollinators in your garden. Cutting Back “Never be afraid to prune your roses, as you won’t ruin the plant,” Philip says. “Many of the newer varieties make some of the old pruning rules obsolete. “Modern garden roses are bred to be productive, making many stems and flowers. “In the olden days, when growth was less vigorous, you were advised to ‘prune to an outward facing eye’, as that one eye would grow and dominate. “Modern bushes will produce multiple stems, so this old requirement is pretty much redundant now.” When pruning, Colin Dickson emphasises the importance of cutting back any dead or damaged stems. “I’d recommend pruning at the beginning of March,” adds Ben Stirton. “Ramblers are an exception to this rule and they should be pruned directly after flowering, as they flower on the new growth from the previous year.” Issues Many common problems experienced by those growing roses are related to environmental issues or issues with basic care. Unfortunately, roses can also sometimes encounter a range of pest and disease problems. “Diseases like rust, powdery mildew & black spot are common on many roses, especially older varieties,” Chris explains. Aphids, flower balling, rose dieback, rose leaf and rose sawfly are just some of the other most common rose problems. “A regular spraying programme of a systemic insecticide or whatever control measure you feel comfortable with is key to combat pest issues,” David shares. “Rose sickness is a soil problem that can be an issue and is most commonly found when the same beds are used to replace plants with new stock,” he adds. “If you have to use the same beds and rotation is not an option, fungicides will need to be used.” References 1. Sytsma, K. (2023, March 10). Rosaceae | plant family. Encyclopedia Britannica. Retrieved March 20, 2023, from https://www.britannica.com/plant/Rosaceae 2. Roses – Rosa. (n.d.). Kew Royal Botanic Gardens. Retrieved March 20, 2023, from https://www.kew.org/plants/roses 3. Mycorrhizal fungi. (n.d.). Royal Horticultural Society. Retrieved March 20, 2023, from https://www.rhs.org.uk/biodiversity/mycorrhizal-fungi
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Grow These 18 Companion Plants With Peonies Says Little Budds Peony Farm
IN THIS GUIDE Companion Planting With Peonies Plants To Grow Alongside Peonies Plants To Grow Over Peonies Plants To Grow Under Peonies Other Considerations Plants To Avoid With Peonies Growing peonies can be a great choice for many gardens. They can work particularly well in a cottage garden scheme, but what should you grow alongside and around your prized peony plants? Companion Planting With Peonies Companion planting peonies is all about choosing plants which: Will cope with similar growing conditions to peonies (full sun or partial shade, fertile, moist yet free-draining soil). Will not compete overly with peonies or be too impacted by their growth. Which look good in planting schemes alongside these flowers. You might think about companion plants that: Bloom at the same time as peonies. Flower before your peonies emerge to ensure that your displays look good before the peony flowers. Are in flower after peony flowers finish for the year. Improve environmental conditions for peonies. “In my own garden I have a variety of perennials and bulbs growing around the peonies,” says Kate Blacker from specialist nursery Little Budds Peony Farm. “You don’t want to be disturbing soiI close by. I use delphiniums as a backdrop to show them off and fragrant roses to extend the season of the border.” “Try not to grow anything that will creep into that 1x1m space” – a rough guideline to the area peonies need to grow uninhibited. Carol Adelman from the Pacific Northwest Peony Society also grows Delphinium with her peonies: “Companion plants I grow include iris, delphinium, dianthus, heuchera, thalictrum, scabiosa, armeria, petunias, dusty miller, foxglove, and phlox.” “I interplant the peonies with spring bulbs,” says Joan, Secretary of the Canadian Peony Society. “Purple irises, including tall, bearded, and Siberian varieties, bloom at the same time and work nicely with peonies. “I also have daylilies in front of my peonies for July and August colour.” Plants To Grow Alongside Peonies Lilac Roses Hydrangeas Azaleas Alliums Day Lilies Irises Foxgloves Delphiniums Lupins Plants To Grow Over Peonies “The planting combination you choose will reflect the style of garden that you have,” shares Colin Skelly, a Master Horticulturist. “Lupins and Delphinium would lend themselves to a looser, cottage garden style whilst Alliums and Iris could be used in a more regulated, formal arrangement.” There are quite a number of trees that work well in the space above peony plants. Amelanchier Cherry Tree Plum Tree Magnolia Dogwood Plants To Grow Under Peonies Mediterranean Herbs Salvias Spring Bulbs Other Considerations Of course, these are just a handful of suggestions and there are plenty of other plants that will make excellent companion plants for peonies. Just remember to space and position plants correctly according to their size and form, and make sure you leave your peonies enough space to avoid damage or too much competition around the roots. As well as considering flowering plants, you might also consider foliage plants such as smaller evergreen shrubs, ornamental grasses or other plants like heucheras or hostas. Another thing to consider is growing more edible perennials around your edible peonies. You might also place perennial vegetables like alliums and brassicas intermingled with ornamental flowering plants. Plants To Avoid With Peonies Avoid planting any aggressive ground cover plants close to peonies, since these can compete too much with peonies and may strangle the roots and crowd the crowns of your plants. As long as you remember to keep competition in mind and think about the conditions that peonies and other plants prefer, you could not find it too challenging to develop a beautiful planting scheme with peonies and a wide range of other plants.
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Growing Tender Bamboo? Insulate Or Wrap Your Plants In Winter Says Colin Skelly
IN THIS GUIDE 1) Move Potted Plants Indoors 2) Mulch The Soil 3) Wrap With Hessian 4) Monitor Throughout Winter Bamboo is widely revered across the UK as a low-maintenance and architecturally attractive grass. While most types of bamboo are fairly hardy, some types are more tender to cold and frost. For that reason, it’s always a good idea to check the label or enquire with the nursery or garden centre where you bought the plant about its temperature resilience. Generally speaking, if you’re growing a variety that is H4-H7 hardy, you should not need to take any preventative measures to protect your plant over winter in most areas of the UK – your bamboo should be naturally resilient enough to survive on its own. As a rule, it’s advisable to purchase a cultivar with a minimum temperature tolerance that’s at least 5°C lower than the winter averages in your area. Whether your bamboo is planted in a pot or in the ground will also affect its hardiness through the colder months – potted plants are more susceptible to frost, since they do not benefit from the natural insulation of the surrounding terrain. Nonetheless, you should be able to ensure both potted and ground-planted varieties make it through the winter and bounce back the following spring with renewed vigour. If you are growing a tender variety, one or more of the following steps will help preserve your bamboo for another year: Move potted bamboo plants indoors or into a greenhouse. Mulch the soil around your bamboo plant to insulate its roots. Wrap your bamboo with hessian or plastic tenting. Keep an eye on the weather and protect from heavy snowfall. We explore each of these methods in more detail below. Difficulty Easy Equipment Required Organic mulch, hessian or plastic tenting 1) Move Potted Plants Indoors If your bamboo is planted in a pot, the easiest and most efficient method of winter-proofing them is moving them to a sheltered location. A greenhouse is a perfect option for this, as they will still receive radiation from the sun without suffering the extremes of the cold. If you don’t have a greenhouse, you can also move the plant indoors. “I move plants inside a porch or shed or garage with a window,” shares Colin Skelly, a Horticulturist and Consultant from the UK. “This can often be enough to take the edge off freezing temperatures. “Although it won’t be sufficient for extreme cold events, it will minimise the movement of plants for most regular frosty weather.” Just remember that bamboo demands plentiful light, so you should move it back outside as soon as the temperature rises. 2) Mulch The Soil A layer of organic matter atop the surface of the soil surrounding your plant is an excellent way to insulate its roots. The roots and the rhizomes are the most important parts of any bamboo plant, so keeping them safe is the priority. You may find that your plant provides its own insulation in the form of fallen leaves. If this happens, don’t move them and instead supplement them with a generous layer (up to 6 inches) of organic mulch to protect them as best you can. 3) Wrap With Hessian If your potted bamboo is too big and cumbersome to move, you can still insulate the container itself by wrapping it in hessian or a similar material. This will help to retain warmth and prevent frost from setting in. If the plant is in the ground and temperatures are expected to plummet, you might wish to erect plastic tenting around the bamboo. This will protect it from strong winds, rain and snow, but will also prevent irrigation, so remember to water it yourself in this scenario. 4) Monitor Throughout Winter Heavy snowfall can cling to leaves and stems, causing them to freeze more quickly and inhibiting the flow of nutrients around the plant. If you notice snow settling on the plant, try to remove it immediately. If, on the other hand, the snow has already frozen to your bamboo by the time you notice it, wait until it thaws before interfering, otherwise you will almost certainly damage the plant.
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Growing Bamboo From Seed Is A Tricky Process - Try These 8 Steps To Improve Your Chances
IN THIS GUIDE When To Sow Bamboo 1) Get Your Compost Ready 2) Soak The Seeds 3) Sow Bamboo Seeds 4) Cover Seeds 5) Await Germination 6) Transplant Your Seedlings 7) Place Pots Outside 8) Plant Hardy Types Outdoors Bamboo is the fastest-growing plant on earth and some varieties grow so quickly that you can sit and watch it happen! It’s also a fascinating plant, with properties and aesthetic features that make it popular for many reasons. Growing bamboo from seed is trickier than growing some other plants, especially in the UK, where our native climate varies quite a lot from the bamboo’s native region. However, it is possible. “Bamboo only flowers occasionally, so the seed is not very commonly available,” explains Colin Skelly, who has been awarded the Master of Horticulture status by the RHS. “All the more reason, perhaps, to collect the seed and propagate them if your bamboo does flower, but it’s still probably not the easiest way to start growing them!” Here’s a basic overview of the process when growing bamboo from seed: Prepare and moisten the compost in a seed tray or pots. Soak your bamboo seeds in water for roughly 24 hours. Sow your bamboo seeds, with a very thin layer of compost on top. Cover your seeds using a propagation tray or plastic bag. Wait for the bamboo seeds to germinate, typically within a few weeks. Transplant into pots after a month or so of growth. Move outside and slowly acclimatise to outdoor conditions. If growing a hardy outdoors variety, plant your bamboo out in the garden. We’ll take a look at the process in more detail in the next sections. Difficulty Medium Equipment Required Seeds, seed tray, compost, spray bottle, propagator (optional) When To Sow Early spring When To Sow Bamboo Unlike many seeds you might grow in the UK, some bamboo varieties can’t spend their first autumn outdoors for the simple fact that they’ll be too weak to survive. Inclement conditions in the UK mean that bamboo needs to be fully established before you can plant it out. We recommend sowing in early spring and taking careful note of the requirements of the variety you’re growing. 1) Get Your Compost Ready Bamboo will do well in general compost, so simply fill a seed tray with a layer of compost, then use your spray bottle to moisten the top layer. 2) Soak The Seeds Bamboo seeds need to soak in room temperature water for 24 hours. If the water is too hot, they’ll die, so err on the side of caution, as cool temperatures will only delay germination, rather than kill the seeds. 3) Sow Bamboo Seeds Once your seeds have soaked, place them on top of your compost with about 1cm between each, then add another thin layer of compost (about 5mm) on top. 4) Cover Seeds If you’re using a propagator, put your seed tray into it and leave it to get up to the required temperature, which is about 24°C. If you don’t have a propagator, you can cover the seed tray with a plastic bag to increase temperature and humidity. Use sticks to keep the bag elevated above the surface of the compost, and use an elastic band to keep it nestled tightly around the edge of the tray. Put your tray or propagator in a spot where it will get some shade and not too much direct sun. 5) Await Germination Now comes the waiting game and the time required is different between varieties. You should expect germination to occur somewhere between 10-20 days. At this step, it’s important to make sure that the plastic bag (if you’re using one) is elevated well away from the compost and seedlings. 6) Transplant Your Seedlings After 30 days, it’s likely that all of the seeds that are going to sprout will have done. Transplant the sprouted ones into small pots (about 5cm in diameter) using potting soil with some added mulch. Ensure the neck of each seedling is level with the top of the soil in its container. Keep each pot in a spot outdoors where they’ll get some shade. 7) Place Pots Outside Bamboo seedlings will be ready to go outdoors out at different times. Hardier species can spend their first winter outdoors, but they’ll need to stay in their pots and have some shelter, with mulch around their base as a bare minimum. Less hardy species will most likely need to spend their first winter indoors in a greenhouse, along with occasional watering to keep them healthy. 8) Plant Hardy Types Outdoors Seedlings that reach about 30cm in height are strong enough to survive the transition to life outdoors. So if you’ve chosen a UK hardy variety, plant them out in your garden and enjoy them as they continue to grow!
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The Bamboo Pruning Routine Followed By A Grower With 15 Years' Experience
IN THIS GUIDE When To Prune Bamboo 1) Prune Damaged Or Dead Canes 2) Thin Canes If Required 3) Reduce Height 4) Thin Lower Foliage Bamboo can be an extremely valuable foliage plant to grow in your garden. As long as you choose the right bamboo and place it in your garden appropriately, it can be an excellent low-maintenance option. One element of bamboo care to think about is pruning. According to Kerri Dall, owner of Scottish Bamboo with over 15 years of experience caring specifically for these plants: “Bamboo doesn’t require much pruning. However, we recommend pruning or thinning out old & thin canes at the base, including any culms which have died in the centre of the clump. “You can also top prune the height if it becomes too tall in the Autumn once they have completed their full growth for the season”. As Kerri says, pruning bamboo is not always essential, but there are several reasons why you might carry out this task. Bamboo is usually best pruned in spring to: Remove any damaged, weedy or dead canes. Thin canes to reduce congestion on dense clumps. Curtail the height of the canes and produce lusher foliage. Clear lower foliage to show the canes off to their best advantage. Below, we’ll take a look at each of these types of pruning in a little more depth. Difficulty Easy Equipment Required Secateurs or pruning saw When To Prune April or May When To Prune Bamboo Bamboo is typically pruned in the spring so that the plants are able to grow strongly over the growing season. 1) Prune Damaged Or Dead Canes Check over your bamboo in spring and cut back any canes which are below par or dead right to the base with a pair of clean, sharp secateurs or garden shears. 2) Thin Canes If Required On large, mature bamboo, you may find that the clump has become very dense and congested. Where this is the case, it can be a good idea to further thin out the canes, cutting out canes at the base as required to allow light and air into the heart of the plant. 3) Reduce Height If your bamboo is growing very tall, you can, if you wish, prune off the tops of the canes to contain their height. Pruning off the growing tips of the canes will encourage them to produce more abundant and dense foliage. 4) Thin Lower Foliage Another option, which is recommended for many bamboos, is to prune out lower foliage to reveal the attractive canes and to show these off to the best advantage. According to Kerri: “One other reason you may choose to prune a bamboo is to trim the lower branches or limbs to show off the culms for their wonderful colour. This is best done throughout the growing season, as the new branches form when the growth is soft and easy to remove from the main culm”. To achieve this, cut off the lower foliage where you wish to do so, making sure that you cut as close to the main canes as possible. “In large clumps of bamboo, it is possible to cut paths through the clump making for an immersive experience that children love,” shares Horticulturist Colin Skelly. “Just be careful to make sure that the bamboo stumps are cut flush with ground level to reduce the potential for trips or injury if fallen upon. “Adding bark chips to the path will also accentuate the intention of the path and make it safer to walk on.” While it may be the case that none of the above steps are necessary, regular pruning can help keep bamboo in check, and keep plants looking their best.
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Lifting And Dividing Your Bamboo Plant Can Keep Growth In Check - Here's How
IN THIS GUIDE 1) Find Your Bamboo Plant 2) Lift From The Ground 3) Divide The Rhizomes Bamboo can be a beautiful and very useful plant to grow in your garden. However, many larger bamboos, especially running varieties, can become invasive, and even existing clumps of non-spreading types can easily become overgrown. One key job which you might wish to undertake when growing bamboo in your garden is the process of lifting and dividing an existing bamboo plant. This can help to keep growth in check and offers the chance to grow more bamboo plants – or gift them to friends or neighbours. The process is surprisingly simple: Choose a bamboo to lift and divide. Lift the bamboo plant from the ground. Divide the bamboo into sections using a saw, axe or mattock to separate the rhizomes. You’ll find a more detailed explanation of this simple process below. Difficulty Easy Equipment Required Bamboo, spade, saw or axe When To Divide March to May 1) Find Your Bamboo Plant The first step involves thinking about the bamboo that you might wish to lift and divide. Decide at this stage why lifting and dividing your bamboo is a good idea and make sure you are clear about your purpose and goals. Kerri from Scottish Bamboo advises: “Bamboo is best planted from a small, pot-grown plant and allowed to establish in its final environment”. Therefore, you need to make sure you are lifting your bamboo plant for a good reason, otherwise this task might damage the plant. Lifting and dividing a bamboo plant is usually done in order to: Renovate and ease the congestion of an existing clump. Propagate new bamboo plants to place elsewhere in the garden, give away or sell. Remove a bamboo that is growing where it is not wanted. 2) Lift From The Ground Lifting bamboo can sometimes be a challenging process and you may not be able to carry out this task on your own. If you are planning to divide a smaller bamboo plant, simply ease a spade or other tool under the roots and lift the plant out of the soil. Where the bamboo is much larger, you may have to unearth and remove sections, one at a time, dividing them from the plant while the bulk of it is still in the soil. 3) Divide The Rhizomes Smaller bamboo plants can often be divided into sections by cleaning off the rhizomes as best you can and taking a saw to the roots. Each section with a rhizome and some above-ground growth should ultimately grow into a new plant if you want it to do so. If you simply wish to remove the bamboo from your garden, you might not need to divide smaller bamboo at all, but splitting larger plants into sections can make removal easier, even if you don’t plan to replant the pieces elsewhere. With larger bamboo, especially those that you have not been able to remove from the soil, you may have to separate sections (either to dispose of or to replant) with an axe or mattock. “I find a mattock the best tool for removing bamboo,” shares Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly. “It doesn’t root deeply but is remarkably reluctant to be removed from the soil! “When using an axe or saw to divide clumps, don’t use your best tools. “I have an old folding saw that I use for sawing roots to avoid blunting the blade for pruning jobs.” Use whichever tool you decide on to chop down through the rhizomes and separate sections off one at a time. If you plan on replanting and are dividing the plant as a means of propagation, it is best to choose healthy young sections from around the edges of an existing clump to replant. “Always give bamboo sufficient space around it when first planted” advises Kerri Dall. “At least 1m is recommended, as it will quickly grow and fill the space”. Plant out your new divisions where you wish to grow them and water in well.
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Why Root Barriers Are The Perfect Way To Stop Invasive Bamboo In Its Tracks
IN THIS GUIDE 1) Select An Appropriate Barrier 2) Dig A Trench 3) Install The Barrier 4) Seal The Ends 5) Aftercare On the surface of things, bamboo is a highly attractive and exotic addition to your outdoor display, offering privacy as screening or intrigue as an ornamental feature. Below ground, however, bamboo could be cooking up a diabolical plan to take over your garden! The fast-growing tendencies which make it such a hit with amateur horticulturalists all over the country can also be their undoing. Worse still, once an invasive bamboo species has been allowed to develop to this point, it’s very tricky to bring it back under control. Commercial herbicides are generally not strong enough to break through the rhizomes of running bamboo and digging the whole plant up can be back-breaking and time-consuming. “Ideally you want to only choose a clumping variety and allow sufficient space around the plant to grow into, around 1-1.5m”, advises Kerri Dall from Scottish Bamboo. “If you opt to plant a bamboo with a spreading rhizome, you should always plant with a rhizome barrier in place or grow your bamboo in a raised bed or a large, sturdy pot”. With that in mind, preventing the bamboo from spreading in the first place is the most preferable course of action. Thankfully, as Kerri mentions, the use of barriers is a surefire way to stop this plant in its tracks – and all it requires is a little bit of forethought and elbow grease to keep your plant in check. Here’s what must be done: Select an appropriate barrier. Dig a trench around your bamboo plants. Install the barrier at an angle. Seal the ends of the barrier. Maintain your bamboo plant. For those concerned about a bamboo invasion in their back garden, here’s a closer look at those steps in more detail: Difficulty Medium Equipment Required Spade, root barrier membrane, wooden stakes, gaffer tape, soil, sharp knife 1) Select An Appropriate Barrier In effect, a bamboo root barrier simply acts as a physical wall that the rhizomes cannot penetrate. As such, any durable but pliable material is fit for the job. There are plenty of specialist products available at garden centres or on the internet which are guaranteed to keep your plant in check. Alternatively, you could use a homemade solution, but if you decide to do so, make sure that the plastic or other material you use is at least 1mm thick, 60cm wide and strong enough to prevent the rhizome from breaking through it. 2) Dig A Trench “Digging a trench around the planting hole so that the rhizomes can be clipped annually when they reach the trench is another way to maintain spreading bamboo” shares Kerri. Using a spade, dig a trench around the area in which you wish to confine your bamboo plants. Base the depth of the trench on the width of the barrier you plant to use. The majority of the barrier should remain underground, with only around 6cm or 7cm protruding above the surface of the soil. For example, if you are using a barrier that is 60cm wide, dig a trench that is just over 50cm in depth. 3) Install The Barrier Position the barrier within the hole, angling it so that it is at a slight slant, projecting away from the bamboo plants. This is so that when the rhizomes come into contact with its surface, they will be encouraged to grow upwards rather than horizontally. This can be tricky to manage, especially at the corners, but you may find enlisting the assistance of someone else or using stakes to keep the membrane in place while you work is helpful. 4) Seal The Ends Make sure that there are generous overlaps of the barrier (at least 50cm) at its joins to ensure there is no way for the rhizomes to squeeze through. Seal these connections using gaffer tape or another strong adhesive. Pack soil tightly around the barrier to increase its stability and make sure it can’t be blown out of position by the wind or knocked over. 5) Aftercare When the rhizomes reach the barrier, they will now surge upwards and break through the surface of the soil in foliated form. These will need to be trimmed back to keep your plant in check and looking at its best. “I have used a range of bamboo barriers and they work for 95% of the time,” says Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly. “However, there always seems to be one rhizome that finds a way through though, so you have to act quickly to cut this back to within the barrier. “I have known running bamboo to pierce through tarmac, so early intervention is advised!” Autumn is a great time to perform any maintenance which might be necessary. Check for rhizomes that are attempting to scale the barrier and cut them back as needed.
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