Growing
Dicentra Seeds Will Need Stratifying Before Germinating - Follow These 7 Steps
IN THIS GUIDE When To Sow Dicentra 1) Collect Dicentra Seeds 2) Sow In Potting Compost 3) Subject Seeds To A Period Of Cold 4) Place Pots On A Windowsill 5) Maintain Watering 6) Wait For Germination 7) Thin Out Your Seedlings Dicentra spectabilis, now classified as Lamprocapnos spectabilis and also known popularly as ‘Bleeding Heart’, is an attractive herbaceous perennial with distinctive heart-shaped flowers. This plant is more easily propagated by dividing mature plants (though care must be taken to avoid damaging the existing roots) or from cuttings obtained in late winter or early spring. However, with some patience and care, it is also possible to grow these plants from seed. “Growing from seed is a good option if there are a number of plants required, which can take a while if you rely on division and is also expensive if you want to purchase plants,” shares Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly. “It pays to research the ideal sowing conditions and have everything in place (including space in the freezer if stratifying) before sowing.” To sow bleeding hearts: Collect your seeds when they are ripe for sowing right away. Sow your dicentra seeds in potting compost. Subject seeds to a period of cold, typically by placing them in the freezer. After 2 weeks place the dicentra seeds on a sunny windowsill. Maintain watering when appropriate. Wait for germination to occur (patience is required as this can take between 2-6 months). Thin out the dicentra seedlings and plant out between early spring and summer. I explain this entire process with each detailed step below. Difficulty Medium to Hard Equipment Required Seeds, pots or seed trays, potting compost, cold frame or unheated greenhouse When To Sow August to January When To Plant Out March to June When To Sow Dicentra You can collect and sow dicentra seeds right away or store the seeds in a cool and dark place until early the following year. Some gardeners find that they are successful when simply sown right away and then leaving the seeds outside all winter, finding that some of the seeds germinate the following spring. However, following the steps below will often yield better results. 1) Collect Dicentra Seeds If you are collecting seeds from an existing dicentra, then these can be collected by tying fabric bags over the pods when they begin to turn a beige colour, so that as the pods dry and open, the seeds spill into the bags. If you choose to purchase seeds, these are best sown early in the year. 2) Sow In Potting Compost Prepare small seed pots with a good quality peat-free seed compost, then take your dicentra seeds and sow 3-4 seeds in each one. Each seed should be covered with around 1cm of potting compost. The location where you sow the seeds should be around 18°C and this temperature should ideally be maintained for around 2 weeks to improve germination rates. 3) Subject Seeds To A Period Of Cold Next, there is another step to improve germination rates. Take the pots and place them in sealed bags in your freezer. Keep them there for 6 weeks to expose the seeds to a period of cold stratification. 4) Place Pots On A Windowsill After taking the seeds out of the freezer, place the pots by a sunny window where temperatures between 15-18°C can be maintained. 5) Maintain Watering Make sure that you keep the potting mix moist but take care not to overwater. Bottom watering can make sure that the seeds are not washed away and that the medium does not become waterlogged. Ensure that excess water can drain away freely. 6) Wait For Germination Germination will usually take place in 2-6 months, depending on the conditions and when exactly the seeds were sown. You may begin to see signs of life from at least some of your seeds in March. However, if they do not begin to sprout in the first spring, leave them in place and some may still germinate the following year. 7) Thin Out Your Seedlings Once the seedlings do germinate, thin them to leave just one per pot. These can then be left to grow on in the same conditions until they are planted out in your garden. Dicentra are usually planted out between March and June.
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You Can Propagate Bleeding Heart Plants By Dividing Their Clumps: Experts Share How
IN THIS GUIDE 1) Lift The Plants 2) Remove Any Excess Soil 3) Divide The Crown 4) Pot Up / Plant Out Bleeding Heart, or Lamprocapnos spectabilis, as they have recently been reclassified botanically, is a stunning, shade-loving perennial that flowers from late spring into early summer. With heart-shaped flowers in red, pink or white that dangle from arching stems, they make an elegant addition to any garden and are particularly suited to informal and cottage garden schemes. As a clump-forming perennial, bleeding hearts can become prone to congestion and should generally be divided every 4-5 years to retain their vigour and encourage blooms. You can lift and divide bleeding heart plants by following these steps: Lift the dicentra using a shovel or garden spade. Knock off any excess soil. Carefully divide the crown of the dicentra using a sharp knife. Plant out or pot up your bleeding heart plant. This process is explained in more depth below. Difficulty Easy Equipment Required Spade, knife, secateurs, gloves, pots, compost When To Divide February to March 1) Lift The Plants Bleeding heart plants can be divided in either spring or autumn. However, they are best divided in spring, just as new growth is appearing, to give the new divisions plenty of time to establish before the colder winter weather sets in. When lifting bleeding hearts, try and choose a dry day when the soil is not frozen or waterlogged. Using a clean and sharp spade, dig around the plant and gently lift it from the ground, trying to keep as much of the roots intact as possible. 2) Remove Any Excess Soil Once lifted, set aside on a tarpaulin or tray and try and remove any excess soil from around the roots, to help create a clear view when it comes to dividing the plant. 3) Divide The Crown Once the soil has been removed from the roots, the plant is ready for dividing. A sharp and clean knife, garden spade or trowel can be used to slice the existing clump into 2-3 equal sections or more depending on the size of the original plant. If a knife is not sufficient, a saw or spade can be used to divide the sections, and an old bread knife set aside solely for this purpose can prove surprisingly effective. In order to give the new divisions the best chance possible of developing into a strong and healthy plant, each new section needs to have a decent section of roots attached and a new bud or two showing in the crown. 4) Pot Up / Plant Out Once the divisions have been made, they are ready to be planted out or potted up into containers. If you wish, a division can be planted back in the position it previously was in or a piece of the original clump can be left in the ground to carry on. To pot up into a container, choose a size slightly deeper and wider than the roots and fill up to one-third of it with a potting mix or general-purpose, peat-free compost. “Divisions are a great way to increase the size of a clump by replacing one large plant with a larger clump of 3-5 plants,” explains Colin Skelly, a Horticultural Consultant. “Alternatively, new plantings can be established or plants established in plants for future use or for gifting or charity plant sales.” Place the division into the pot at the same depth it was previously planted at and backfill with soil, gently firming the soil down as you go to try and eliminate any air pockets. If the roots are slightly too big for the pot or are sticking out, they can be trimmed judiciously using a clean and sharp pair of secateurs. Water well on planting, protect from any harsh weather and keep the soil moist until established. If planting out directly into a bed or border, the same advice as above follows. However, it is advisable to work in some organic matter before planting to give it a boost and to add mulch afterwards to help conserve moisture as it establishes.
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12 Black And Purple Hellebores You Could Combine With Snowdrops
IN THIS GUIDE 1) H. atrorubens subsp. croaticus 2) H. × hybridus ‘Double Black’ 3) H. orientalis ‘Hello Ruby’ 4) H. x hybridus Ashwood Garden Hybrids 5) H. × hybridus ‘Black Swan’ 6) H. × hybridus ‘Double Ellen Purple’ 7) H. × hybridus ‘Harvington Double Dark Purple’ 8) H. orientalis hort. ‘Shades of Night’ 9) H. × hybridus ‘Harvington Smokey Blues’ 10) H. × hybridus Party Dress Group 11) H. × hybridus ‘Smokey Blue’ 12) H. purpurascens Purple and black hellebore varieties can add a lot of interest and appeal in a partly shaded spot. The rich, deep and dramatic purple tones possible with this plant mean that they are great to include in a purple-themed garden. “Black and purple hellebore flowers have a jewel-like quality that invites you in to look more closely,” says Colin Skelly, an RHS Master Horticulturist. “Combined with other early spring bulbs such as Snowdrops, they can be a real highlight of winter gardens. “If you have more than one species or cultivar, they will often hybridise to create new variations.” From rich plums to vibrant grape hues, to purples so deep they are almost black, here are some purple hellebore species and cultivars to consider. 1) H. atrorubens subsp. croaticus COMMON NAME(S): croatian hellebore HARDINESS RATING: H6 FOLIAGE: deciduous FLOWERING SEASON(S): spring SUNLIGHT: full sun / part shade Starting with a flower which could perhaps be described as being at the more subtle end of the purple colour spectrum, the Croatian hellebore is a clump-forming deciduous perennial which grows to around 40cm tall. It has rounded leaves divided into leaflets that often have a purple tinge. The nodding flowers are 2-3cm wide, with deep purple to pinky-purple colouration on the outside of the petals and greenish hues on the inside. This variety is H6 hardy. 2) H. × hybridus ‘Double Black’ COMMON NAME(S): hellebore hybrid ‘double black’ HARDINESS RATING: H7 FOLIAGE: evergreen / semi-evergreen FLOWERING SEASON(S): winter / spring SUNLIGHT: part shade Now we zoom to the other end of the spectrum. This option has some of the darkest hellebore blooms you will find – so deep a purple that it almost edges into black. The petals’ deep colour contrast appealingly with its greenish-white stamens. These plants are around 40cm tall. 3) H. orientalis ‘Hello Ruby’ COMMON NAME(S): hellebore ‘hello ruby’ HARDINESS RATING: H7 FOLIAGE: deciduous FLOWERING SEASON(S): winter SUNLIGHT: part shade A plummy reddish-purple in hue, these are also stunning flowers to consider. They grow to around 35cm in height and are hardy perennials which can thrive in dappled shade. 4) H. x hybridus Ashwood Garden Hybrids COMMON NAME(S): hellebore Ashwood Garden hybrids HARDINESS RATING: H7 FOLIAGE: semi-evergreen FLOWERING SEASON(S): winter / spring SUNLIGHT: full sun / part shade These hybrid hellebores offer some of the best purple-hued options. They are seed-raised evergreen herbaceous perennials which grow up to 30cm tall and come in a huge range of single and double, plain and patterned forms, and in a huge range of hues. Some of the purple flowering ones include: Single Dusky Grape Double Dusky Grape Double Reverse Picotee Purple Single plum shades Though there are also other options which may include some purple or edge into this colour zone. This group of garden hybrids is very much worth exploring not only if you are looking for purple varieties of hellebore, but also if you are interested in other notable colours and shades. 5) H. × hybridus ‘Black Swan’ COMMON NAME(S): hellebore hybrid ‘black swan’ HARDINESS RATING: H7 FOLIAGE: semi-evergreen FLOWERING SEASON(S): winter / spring SUNLIGHT: full sun / part shade This clump-forming perennial grows around 60cm tall, with dark green, deeply lobed leaves, which usually remain throughout the winter, and stunning deep, rich purple flowers which are outward facing. These flowers have white stamens, and are borne on strong, upright stems. This plant is H7 hardy. 6) H. × hybridus ‘Double Ellen Purple’ COMMON NAME(S): hellebore hybrid ‘double ellen purple’ HARDINESS RATING: H7 FOLIAGE: semi-evergreen FLOWERING SEASON(S): winter / spring SUNLIGHT: part shade This option has double, deep purple flowers that are lightly speckled and have yellow centres, which grow to around 35cm high. They have dark green leaves, are perfect for partial shade and are H7 hardy. 7) H. × hybridus ‘Harvington Double Dark Purple’ COMMON NAME(S): hellebore hybrid ‘harvington double dark purple’ HARDINESS RATING: H7 FOLIAGE: evergreen FLOWERING SEASON(S): winter / spring SUNLIGHT: full sun / part shade The stunning nodding or outward-facing dark purple flowers on this option bloom from late winter to the middle of spring, to a height of around 60cm above dark green leaves. Good for planting in full sun or dappled shade. This is another H7 hardy variety. 8) H. orientalis hort. ‘Shades of Night’ COMMON NAME(S): hellebore ‘Shades of the Night’ HARDINESS RATING: H7 FOLIAGE: evergreen FLOWERING SEASON(S): winter / spring SUNLIGHT: full sun / part shade Another option from Harvington is the stunning ‘Shades of the Night’. This plant grows to around 45cm tall and produces large, single blooms in a deep purple to black colour. Also fine in sun or partial shade, this plant is H7 hardy. 9) H. × hybridus ‘Harvington Smokey Blues’ COMMON NAME(S): hellebore hybrid Harvington Smokey Blues’ HARDINESS RATING: H4 FOLIAGE: evergreen FLOWERING SEASON(S): winter / spring SUNLIGHT: full sun / part shade This variety’s purple-black flowers have a dark bluish sheen and creamy yellow centres. They are particularly effective amid snowdrops or amongst other white flowering hellebores. 10) H. × hybridus Party Dress Group COMMON NAME(S): hellebore Party Dress Group HARDINESS RATING: H7 FOLIAGE: evergreen FLOWERING SEASON(S): winter / spring SUNLIGHT: full sun / part shade If you are looking for somewhat paler shades of purple, then the Party Dress Group of hellebore will provide you with some options. These neat and slow-growing plants come in a range of hues. They are hybrids derived from H. torquatus and well-coloured forms of H. x hybridus. 11) H. × hybridus ‘Smokey Blue’ COMMON NAME(S): hellebore ‘smokey blue’ HARDINESS RATING: H7 FOLIAGE: semi-evergreen FLOWERING SEASON(S): winter / spring SUNLIGHT: full sun / part shade This is a clump-forming semi-evergreen perennial, which grows to around 45cm high. It has deep green leaves and bears beautiful dark greyish-purple blooms from late winter to spring. 12) H. purpurascens COMMON NAME(S): purple-flowered Christmas rose HARDINESS RATING: H6 FOLIAGE: deciduous FLOWERING SEASON(S): winter / spring SUNLIGHT: full sun / part shade Another option is the purple-flowered Christmas rose. This is a deciduous, clump-forming perennial which grows to around 25-30cm high. It has rich purple or pinkish-purple flowers which start opening in December and continue to flower through to March.
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These 12 White Hellebores Are 'A Real Spring Treat' And Well Worth Growing
IN THIS GUIDE 1) H. × nigercors ‘Snow Love’ 2) H. × ericsmithii ‘Winter Moonbeam’ 3) H. × hybridus ‘Double Ellen White’ 4) H. × hybridus ‘Harvington Double White’ 5) H. × hybridus ‘Pebworth White’ 6) H. × hybridus ‘Pretty Ellen White’ 7) H. niger 8) H. niger ‘Potter’s Wheel’ 9) H. niger ‘Wintergold’ 10) H. × sahinii ‘Winterbells’ 11) H. thibetanus 12) H. ‘Verboom Beauty’ Helleborus are very easy plants to grow and are suited to many UK gardens. They are often best suited to partial shade, though many types also do well in full sun, as long as they have moist but well-drained, alkaline to neutral soil. They are great for wildlife-friendly gardens, providing a nectar source for pollinators and other insects when there are few other sources around at that time of year. “White hellebores are a real spring treat, their flowers have a delicacy and poise that makes them a stand-out garden plant for humans,” says Colin Skelly, a Master Horticulturist. “When planting for non-humans, I often see bumblebees taking advantage of this early flower.” This list of white cultivars should be a great place to start if you are wanting to add a hellebore to your garden display. 1) H. × nigercors ‘Snow Love’ COMMON NAME(S): hellebore ‘snow love’ HARDINESS RATING: H5 FOLIAGE: evergreen SUNLIGHT: full sun / part shade This clump-forming perennial plant grows around 45cm high. It has dark green, serrated leaves and stems which stand out against the foliage, bearing creamy white flowers which become lightly flushed with green as they mature. The flowers bloom between the middle of winter and early spring and are perfect for moist but well-drained soil in full sun or partial shade. This variety is H5 hardy. 2) H. × ericsmithii ‘Winter Moonbeam’ COMMON NAME(S): hellebore ‘winter moonbeam’ HARDINESS RATING: H5 FOLIAGE: evergreen SUNLIGHT: full sun / part shade This option also forms mounds, but these are to around 35cm. It has attractive silvery-grey, vein-like markings on the leaves and bears white, single, outward-facing flowers on a short stem. The flowers turn pinkish and then reddish as they fade. ‘Winter Moonbeam’ is H5 hardy. 3) H. × hybridus ‘Double Ellen White’ COMMON NAME(S): hellebore ‘double Ellen White’ HARDINESS RATING: H7 FOLIAGE: evergreen / semi-evergreen SUNLIGHT: full sun / part shade The white flowers on this semi-evergreen, clump-forming perennial are large, double blooms with ruffled edges. They bloom through the winter and into spring. It is H7 hardy. 4) H. × hybridus ‘Harvington Double White’ COMMON NAME(S): hellebore ‘harvington double white’ HARDINESS RATING: H7 FOLIAGE: evergreen / semi-evergreen SUNLIGHT: full sun / part shade Another semi-evergreen Hellebore, this variety thrives in partial shade, where its pendent or outward-facing, double, saucer-shaped flowers stand out pleasingly above the dark green leaves. A bushy type, it grows up to around 60cm high. This plant is H4 hardy. 5) H. × hybridus ‘Pebworth White’ COMMON NAME(S): hellebore ‘pebworth white’ HARDINESS RATING: H7 FOLIAGE: semi-evergreen SUNLIGHT: full sun / part shade The blooms on this cultivar are white with green or pale pink flushing, lightly marked with a little red towards the centre. It grows to around 50cm in height and is H7 hardy. 6) H. × hybridus ‘Pretty Ellen White’ COMMON NAME(S): hellebore ‘pretty Ellen White’ HARDINESS RATING: H7 FOLIAGE: semi-evergreen SUNLIGHT: full sun / part shade This Hellebore is semi-evergreen and grows to around 35cm tall. It has divided, dark green leaves and its white flowers also often have faint green or pink blushing and light spotting towards the centre. They are borne in late winter and spring and are H7 hardy. 7) H. niger COMMON NAME(S): christmas rose HARDINESS RATING: H7 FOLIAGE: semi-evergreen SUNLIGHT: part shade Also known as the Christmas rose, this is a semi-evergreen perennial which grows to around 30cm tall. Each plant bears 1-3 pure white or pink-tinged blooms up to 8cm in width. This plant is H7 hardy. 8) H. niger ‘Potter’s Wheel’ COMMON NAME(S): christmas rose ‘potter’s wheel’ HARDINESS RATING: H7 FOLIAGE: semi-evergreen SUNLIGHT: part shade While you may simply purchase and grow the species type, there are also several named cultivars of Christmas rose to choose from. This is one of the best-known, with flowers that can be 10-13cm across, overlapping pure white petals that are marked green towards the centre and golden-yellow stamens. Like the species, this named cultivar is H7 hardy. 9) H. niger ‘Wintergold’ COMMON NAME(S): christmas rose ‘wintergold’ HARDINESS RATING: H7 FOLIAGE: evergreen SUNLIGHT: part shade Another named cultivar of the Christmas rose is ‘Wintergold’. This plant grows 30-35cm high and its white flowers are around 8cm across, pure white, with bright yellow stamens. 10) H. × sahinii ‘Winterbells’ COMMON NAME(S): hellebore ‘winterbells’ HARDINESS RATING: H4 FOLIAGE: evergreen SUNLIGHT: full sun / part shade This is an interspecies hybrid of H. niger and H. foetidus. Its flowers are not pure white, but rather white overlayered with soft pink and greenish hues, which look lovely against the silvery-green foliage. It can cope with partial or even full shade on suitable soils. 11) H. thibetanus COMMON NAME(S): tibetan hellebore HARDINESS RATING: H5 FOLIAGE: deciduous SUNLIGHT: part shade An interesting option, the Tibetan hellebore is a deciduous perennial growing to around 45cm tall. Its leaves have saw-like edging and the flowers are bell-shaped, arriving in clusters of 2-8. They are around 5-6cm across and bloom in early spring. The flowers, which have a papery texture, start out pure white but fade through pale pink to green, sometimes with dark veining. 12) H. ‘Verboom Beauty’ COMMON NAME(S): hellebore ‘verboom beauty’ HARDINESS RATING: H6 FOLIAGE: semi-evergreen SUNLIGHT: full sun / part shade This hellebore is semi-evergreen. It flowers early and abundantly on compact plants and bears beautiful pure white flowers in late winter and spring. It is H6 hardy. Hellebores can often be an excellent way to bring interest to a shady spot and are a boon for the bees. These white flowering options are just some of the many plants within this genus to consider growing in your garden.
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Propagating Hellebores Is Not The Easiest Garden Job - Try These Two Proven Methods
IN THIS GUIDE 1) Propagating By Division 2) Propagating From Seed Hellebores are delightful perennials which brighten the garden with their blooms when few other flowers are out in winter and early spring. Propagating Hellebores is not always the easiest garden job. These plants do not usually offer the option to propagate from cuttings, but can often either be propagated by division or by growing from seed. The best option will depend on which type of hellebore you are growing. We explain your two choices in more detail below. Difficulty Medium Equipment Required Spade or fork, knife, seeds, compost, pot or seed tray When To Propagate Summer (by seed) or Autumn or Spring (by division) 1) Propagating By Division Before you divide hellebore, note that this method of propagation is not suited to all varieties and, although this is the easiest way to get new plants from those you already have in your garden, hellebores are notoriously fussy and do not like to be moved or disturbed. If you have a suitable hellebore variety which is large and healthy, careful division is best carried out in early autumn. However, you can also consider undertaking this job in the spring, immediately after the flowering period. To divide a hellebore, dig carefully around the plant and, keeping the roots as intact and undisturbed as possible, lift it from the soil or growing medium. Slice through the centre of the clump with a sharp spade or gardening knife to divide it into 2 or more sections. Replant each of the divisions as soon as possible in a spot suited to their growing needs. Make sure that you place them so that the base of the growing shoots are approximately 2.5cm below the surface of the soil or growing medium. It is very important to make sure that your new plants are watered well during the first growing season and are not allowed to dry out. Note that you will have to be patient, as it can take a couple of years for transplanted divisions to flower well. 2) Propagating From Seed Hellebores like H. argutifolius, H. foetida, H. lividus and H. sternii are among those which do not respond well to division. Therefore, these and some other hellebores are best propagated from seed. Often, the best way to obtain new hellebores is simply to allow them to self-seed where they are growing in your garden. However, you can also collect the seeds in their ripe pots and sow these directly in the garden where they are to grow in mid to late summer. If seeds are stored rather than direct sown, it can be challenging to get these to germinate successfully, but it is possible. However, the seeds will require a period of warmth followed by a cold spell in order to germinate. You should also note that this also requires a lot of patience because germination can often take up to a year and can still be sporadic or patchy. After you have sown the stored seeds in pots or seed trays filled with a seed-starting peat-free compost, these should be kept at temperatures between 15-18°C for 6 weeks. They should then be exposed to winter cold, or kept at 5°C for another 6 weeks. When growing from seed, remember that the plants you grow will vary from the parent plant. Luckily, it can be interesting to experiment to see which variations occur and to create your own interesting new hellebores. “When hellebores are growing happily, they will produce seedlings that you can either allow to grow to maturity if you are happy with where they are, pot-on or transplant to a different spot,” shares Horticultural Consultant Colin Skelly. “If you have several species or cultivars in your garden they will tend to hybridise. “If you want to obtain a copy of the parent then you’ll need to divide, but the seedlings will produce variations on the parent species or cultivars.”
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Hellebores Grown From Seed Can Be Very Rewarding - Simply Follow These 5 Steps
IN THIS GUIDE When To Sow Hellebore 1) Harvest Or Purchase Seeds 2) Fill Pots With Compost 3) Sow Seeds 4) Prick Out Seedlings 5) Grow On Hellebores, also widely known as the ‘Christmas Rose’ because of when they flower, are a group of hardy perennial plants that can flower from winter until spring. Growing hellebores from seed can prove lengthy and tricky, as they can be difficult to germinate and take a few years until they flower. However, if successful growing hellebores from seed can be very rewarding. Some hellebores self-seed freely and the seedlings can be left to grow where they are or potted up. However, they may well not come true and end up looking different from the parent plants. To grow hellebores from seed: Harvest seed pods or source them from your local garden centre. Fill shallow pots with a seed-sowing compost mix. Sow seeds, firming them gently into the compost. Prick out seedlings to ensure they aren’t competing for resources. Grow on undercover, providing shaded conditions out of direct sunlight. This process is explained in detailed steps underneath. Difficulty Medium Equipment Required Gloves, pots or seed tray, seed sowing compost, horticultural grit or perlite When To Sow May-July When To Plant Out Autumn to Spring When To Sow Hellebore Hellebore seeds are usually best sown straight away on receiving or harvesting them and before the seeds dry out, which can lead to their dormancy. 1) Harvest Or Purchase Seeds Hellebore seeds are rarely found available in a garden centre, but can be purchased from an online supplier or harvested from a plant that has recently bloomed. Hellebore seeds can be collected from a plant once the flowers have faded and the seed pods have turned brown and are beginning to split, usually around the month of May. Remove the spent flower heads or seed pods from the plant and separate the small glossy black seeds which can be kept in a paper envelope until sowing. 2) Fill Pots With Compost Fill a small pot, or seed or module tray with a seed sowing compost mix and tamp down to provide a smooth surface to scatter the seeds over. 3) Sow Seeds Sow the hellebore seeds thinly on top of the compost and firm the seeds gently down ensuring good soil contact. Cover the seeds with a thin layer of perlite or horticultural grit and water gently from above being careful not to disperse the seed. Label clearly and place the pot or tray outdoors in a sheltered spot out of direct sunlight and water when required to keep moist. 4) Prick Out Seedlings Hellebore seeds can take a long time to germinate and require some time exposed to cold temperatures before doing so. Once the seeds have germinated, typically when the temperatures drop around November to December, place them in an unheated greenhouse or cold frame to grow on. “Essentially, this replicates the conditions in which they have evolved, as germinating before or during summer would result in high rates of loss due to drought,” explains Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly. “As temperatures drop into autumn and wetter weather resumes, the seeds are primed to emerge.” Once the seedlings are large enough to handle and display a pair of fully opened leaves, they are really for pricking out. Carefully prick out the seedlings, handling the leaves only, and pot on individually into small pots filled with a peat-free multi-purpose compost with some horticultural grit added. 5) Grow On Grow the seedlings on in an unheated greenhouse or cold frame and out of direct sunlight, keeping the soil moist at all times. Pot on the young hellebores a size up when they outgrow their pots and continue to grow the plants on until they are large enough to be planted out into a border or a final container or pot.
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Pruning Hellebore In 3 Steps - 'In Late Winter, I Remove All Of Last Year’s Foliage'
IN THIS GUIDE When To Prune Hellebore 1) Remove The Foliage 2) Deadhead Spent Flowers 3) Dispose Of Old Foliage Hellebores are a group of flowering perennial plants that can bloom from winter through to spring. There are several benefits to cutting back hellebores, including maintaining optimal plant health and removing the foliage so that their jewel-like flowers can be seen and enjoyed. Cutting back hellebores is a fairly simple process as described below: Remove any browning, diseased or damaged foliage. Deadhead the flowers back to the base of the stem. Get rid of old foliage to prevent the spread of any pests or problems. This process is explained in more depth underneath. Difficulty Easy Equipment Required Secateurs, gardening gloves When To Prune October to February When To Prune Hellebore Hellebores should be cut back either in the autumn or in mid-winter, depending on the variety. The easy-to-care-for and widely-grown Helleborus x hybridus, with its nodding flowers that tend to bloom in February and March, requires cutting back in late winter before the new growth appears. Other hellebore varieties require some pruning in late autumn and after flowering in spring. 1) Remove The Foliage The foliage of Helleborus x hybridus is semi-evergreen and can begin to look tired and tatty towards the end of the year. It is these old and often browning leaves that can be removed by cutting to the base of the stem with a clean and sharp pair of secateurs. “In late winter, I remove all of last year’s foliage on my H. x hybridus,” shares Colin Skelly, a Horticultural Consultant. “At the same time, I mulch around them with compost. “This creates the perfect backdrop for the emerging flowers to stand out as they emerge as well as improving the soil.” Other hellebore varieties require any diseased or damaged foliage to be cut away earlier in the autumn. Hellebores can be prone to a fungal disease called leaf spot, characterised by dark spots and blotches on both the foliage and the flowers. Cutting back and removing any infected or old foliage can help prevent and control leaf spot disease. 2) Deadhead Spent Flowers Helleborus x hybridus have a tendency to self-seed and can even take over an area. This can be minimised by either deadheading the spent flowers back to the flowering stems’ base with secateurs before the seed pods are formed or by removing the seedlings once germinated. Other hellebore varieties, such as Helleborus foetidus or the Stinking Hellebore as it is suitably named, which flower in spring can also self-seed freely. These produce thicker and taller flower stems which can either be cut back right after flowering to discourage their reproduction or left to develop pods and self-seed, before cutting back to their base. 3) Dispose Of Old Foliage Along with the fungal leaf spot disease, hellebores can also succumb to a viral disease known as Hellebore black death. Aptly named due to the black linear markings on the foliage that appear, the only control is to remove and destroy the plant when the disease is identified. As a result, and to avoid contamination, it is recommended not to add any hellebore material to home composting systems, but for it to be destroyed instead.
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Astrantia Typically Self-Seed, But You Can Sow Them Yourself In A Desired Area
IN THIS GUIDE When To Sow Astrantia 1) Collect The Seeds 2) Prepare Your Seed Trays 3) Sow Astrantia Seeds 4) Cover Seeds With A Thin Layer 5) Wait For Germination 6) Prick Out Seedlings Astrantias, also known as ‘Masterworts’, are attractive flowering perennials. They are herbaceous plants with attractive, star-shaped floral bracts, which radiate out around pincushion-like flowering heads during the summer months. Sometimes, Astrantias may self-seed in a suitable spot in your garden, but you can also take things into your own hands. Astrantias can be sown using the seed collected from existing plants in your garden. The process is simple: Collect or purchase your Astrantia seeds. Fill a seed tray or pot with seed-sowing compost. Press the Astrantia seeds onto the surface of the growing medium. Cover the Astrantia seeds with a thin layer of horticultural grit or vermiculite. Leave the seeds in a cool, bright spot for germination to take place. Prick out the masterwort seedlings and plant them out into their growing positions. Read on for a more in-depth discussion of the steps above. Difficulty Medium Equipment Required Seeds, seed trays or pots, seed-sowing compost When To Sow February to April or August to October When To Plant Out October to April When To Sow Astrantia If you collect your own seeds, either from a plant in your own garden or from the garden of a friend or relative, these can be sown as soon as they have been collected in August, September or October. “Seeds sown when they are fresh have the best chance of germination, which can be erratic,” says Roy Nicol, a Professional Gardener. Alternatively, they can be stored carefully in a paper envelope and planted in spring, between February and April. Purchased seeds are typically sown in spring indoors or under cover. 1) Collect The Seeds Seeds from Astrantia plants are relatively easy to collect. Once the seed heads are brown and dry and just before they open, place these into a paper bag and give them a shake. The seeds will fall into the bag, ready to be sown. Alternatively, you can purchase Astrantia seeds to sow. 2) Prepare Your Seed Trays Make sure you have a suitable seed tray or pots ready. This should be filled with seed-sowing potting mix, which is moisture retentive yet aerated and reasonably free-draining. 3) Sow Astrantia Seeds The seeds of Astrantias are not buried within the growing medium but are instead pressed gently into the surface. They should not be covered over with the potting mix. 4) Cover Seeds With A Thin Layer Instead, cover over the seeds with a thin protective layer of horticultural grit or vermiculite. Place this tray into some water so it can soak up moisture from below. “This method helps to engage the seeds with the potting mix rather than disturbing them as watering from above can do,” explains Roy. This ensures appropriate conditions and germination should hopefully take place. “Astrantia seeds should be sown fresh in seed trays around October, covered over lightly and then left outside over winter,” explains Caroline from the Astrantia specialist nursery Letham Plants. “If seeds are to be sown in the spring, it is best to place them in a refrigerator for 4 weeks before sowing,” explains Roy. “This cold stratification will encourage germination.” 5) Wait For Germination Astrantia seeds should germinate fairly quickly. Not all of the seeds will germinate, but you should see some new growth after a relatively short period. Sometimes, when sowing in autumn, the seeds may not germinate. If this occurs, simply place the tray somewhere in the cold outdoors. The period of cold over the winter may well lead to germination in late winter or early spring. “Astrantias need the cold to germinate,” Caroline elaborates. “Make sure the seed trays do not dry out and once the weather starts to warm up, the seeds will germinate.” 6) Prick Out Seedlings If sowing in autumn, seedlings can be pricked out and potted on. You can place the plants in containers to grow on or transplant them straight into their final growing positions in your garden. Young Astrantias can be planted out in your garden any time between October and April. Be sure to choose a spot which is in full sun or, ideally for most varietals, in partial or dappled shade. An ideal location will have moisture-retentive, humus-rich, loamy soil which is high in organic matter. “Seed-grown plants will usually flower in their second year,” says Caroline. Choose the right spot and these useful and attractive plants will be great trouble-free additions to your garden, delighting you with their flowering displays for a number of years to come.
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Both Tender And Hardy Verbena Can Be Grown In Containers - Here's How To Care For Them
IN THIS GUIDE Can You Grow Verbena In Pots? Choosing Verbena Containers Verbena-Friendly Compost Potting Up Verbena Potted Verbena Care Whether we are talking about more tender bedding verbenas or hardier perennial types, these plants are wonderful choices for a wildlife-friendly garden. If you are considering growing these lovely plants in your garden, you might be wondering whether you can grow verbenas in pots. Read on for an answer to this question and for more information to guide you when growing verbena. Can You Grow Verbena In Pots? Verbenas can be grown relatively easily in containers. In fact, container growing is an extremely popular choice when it comes to these plants, especially for bedding verbenas that are commonly grown as annuals in UK gardens. Even hardier perennial verbenas can be grown in containers as long as they are given appropriate growing conditions and the right care. When thinking about long-term container growing, which type and cultivar of verbena you choose will be important. So, choose a verbena before you make any other decisions to make sure your chosen plant remains as happy and healthy as possible. Choosing Verbena Containers When choosing a container for verbena, it is important to take into account the size to which the particular verbena you have chosen will eventually grow. Bedding types are generally smaller and can be ideally suited to growing in a wide range of containers, but these can also vary in height and spread quite dramatically. Hardier perennial types may be more vigorous and need a much larger container. If growing perennial types like Verbena bonariensis, look for compact cultivars if you plan to grow them in pots, such as ‘Lollipop’. ‘Lollipop’ Verbena A container for verbenas can be one which sits on the ground, a hanging basket or another hanging container. Just make sure, whatever type of container you choose, that it will retain sufficient moisture while allowing excess water to drain away freely. Generally speaking, the larger the container, the less slowly it will dry out and the less work it will take to maintain it. Many verbenas lend themselves well to planting in larger containers alongside other plants which enjoy similar conditions, either for summer bedding displays or for perennial plantings which will grow a number of years. Verbena-Friendly Compost If you are growing bedding verbenas as part of a summer bedding display in containers, you should fill your container with a peat-free multipurpose potting mix or a homemade equivalent. With perennial displays, it is a good idea to fill containers with a loam or soil-based potting mix or homemade equivalent. Potting Up Verbena Bedding verbenas should be planted out into containers from mid-May onwards since these more tender types won’t survive a late frost. If you pot them up sooner, keep them indoors or undercover in a frost-free location before hardening them off and moving them outdoors once all risk of frost has passed and the weather has warmed up in your area. If you are planting these types of verbena in hanging baskets, you can use a frost-free greenhouse to get them off to the best possible start. “There are many excellent Verbena cultivars for bedding,” says Horticultural Consultant Colin Skelly. “Typically these are smaller than the hardy perennial species and cultivars and more suitable for pots, containers and hanging baskets. They are also more tender, so should be grown as an annual outdoors in the UK.” Place plug plants into the basket in March or April in the greenhouse, so they get a chance to settle in and should begin flowering soon after they are moved and hung outdoors in May or June. How Many Should You Plant Per Pot? Verbenas vary significantly in their size and growing habits, so how many you can place in a given container will very much depend on which type and variety you are growing. Smaller verbenas can look good on their own in smaller pots, but will often take less work if planted in groups, or alongside other plants which like similar sunny and free-draining growing conditions. Potted Verbena Care Place pots in a sunny spot. Taller growing types will do best in a spot that is sheltered too. Water verbenas regularly and remember that those growing in pots will require more frequent watering than those growing in the ground. Water when the medium feels dry at a depth of around 2.5cm, ensuring that excess water can drain away freely, as verbena cannot tolerate waterlogged conditions. When you water, continue to add water until the majority of the compost is wet, but stop before it runs out of the drainage holes. Verbenas planted in the ground in your garden won’t typically need fertilising, other than an organic mulch applied annually in spring. If you want, you can apply a potassium-rich organic fertiliser every couple of weeks or from around a month after planting until the end of the flowering period. In winter, it is generally best to move perennial Verbena into a greenhouse, porch or another sheltered spot to see them through until spring. Cut back perennial verbena in the spring, just before new growth emerges.
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