Growing
Pruning Or Deadheading Crocosmia Isn't Needed Until The End Of Season, Says Mark Wash
IN THIS GUIDE When To Prune Crocosmia 1) Wait For Foliage To Die Back 2) Cut Back Dead Foliage Crocosmia is a very easy plant to grow and care for. As long as it has moist yet free-draining soil and a sunny or lightly shaded spot, it should thrive and flower well for a number of years with very little work on your part. Though not strictly essential, it can be beneficial to cut back dead foliage from crocosmias before new growth emerges in the spring. You can prune crocosmia by: Waiting for the foliage to die back. Cutting off dead foliage to the base. Read more about this simple process below. Difficulty Easy Equipment Required Secateurs, gardening gloves When To Prune March When To Prune Crocosmia The most important thing to remember when cutting back crocosmia is that you should never do so while the leaves are still green and in active growth. After the plant flowers, usually between August and October, the plant leaves still have an important job to do. They are busy and hard at work, converting sunshine and carbon dioxide into energy. When the leaves begin to die back at the end of the growing season, the energy they collected will be stored in the corms over the winter, allowing new growth and flowering the following year. If you cut back the Crocosmia before the leaves have been able to do their job, there will not be enough energy stored in the corms to allow the plant to grow and flower well next year. As soon as the leaves naturally die back, you can think about cutting off the dead, brown leaves to tidy things up and for appearances. However, it is far better to wait until early spring to cut back the plants, as Mark Wash from Trecanna Nursery, states: “No pruning or deadheading is required until the cut back at the end of the season,” he says. If you wait until early spring, shortly before new growth emerges, wildlife will be able to make use of the cover, shelter and habitat that the dead foliage provides over the coldest part of the year. Waiting until spring will also give the corms below a little extra protection, which can be a good thing, especially in colder parts of the UK. So, if you want to have a wildlife-friendly garden and ensure no winter damage takes place in colder areas, hold off pruning crocosmia until around March. 1) Wait For Foliage To Die Back As mentioned above, it is best to hold off cutting back the dead foliage until the early spring. “A gentle shake of the stems will help loosen any spent flowers to keep the clump looking fresh,” says Mark, though this step is completely optional. However, you can cut back hard any time after the foliage dies. You will be able to tell when the foliage has died back because it will have turned a brownish colour and no portions will be green. 2) Cut Back Dead Foliage This job really could not be simpler: just take a pair of secateurs and a hold of a clump of the foliage and cut it off close to the ground. Once you have removed the foliage, it will make a great addition to your composting system. “Depending on the state of decomposition of the foliage (i.e., not too slimy), it can be cut back into small sections and left on the ground around the plants,” shares Horticulturist Colin Skelly. “This allows the foliage to rot down directly on the soil and provides a surface mulch – this can be done with other perennials too.” After pruning, you can also consider replenishing the mulch around the base of your plants with fresh homemade compost or other organic material to maintain fertility and help make sure that the plants have what they need to flower well later in the year.
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Crocosmia Not Flowering? Maturity And Congestion Are The Most Common Causes
IN THIS GUIDE New Plant Not Flowering Older Plant Not Flowering Crocosmias can be reliable plants, which bloom well year after year in the right setting, but it is not all that uncommon to have a crocosmia which fails to flower. If you have a new crocosmia which has not flowered, this can have a number of reasons: It might need more time to mature. It may bloom a little later where you live. The location may be too shaded. The soil may not be sufficiently moist. If you have a crocosmia which has failed to flower after having flowered well before, this may also be due to under-watering or a particularly dry summer. It may also be because: Your plant is congested, and needs to be divided. You may have pruned your crocosmia too soon after flowering, so corms could not develop as they should. Corms were damaged in particularly cold winter conditions. The plants were provided with excessive nitrogen fertiliser. Plants were not provided with sufficient potassium for flowering. New Plant Not Flowering If a new crocosmia fails to flower, first of all, check that you should expect flowers now. You may simply have to wait for corms to mature further or for the flowering period where you live. If flowers do not appear when they should on a new crocosmia, usually this is down to a problem with where you have placed your crocosmia. These plants can cope with some partial shade but could benefit from being transplanted to a sunnier position if they fail to flower. “Shade is the problem I have most often encountered with loss of flower with Crocosmia,” says Horticultural Consultant Colin Skelly. “This may happen because it is planted in the wrong place to start with it but also because conditions change because of plants growing up around it. “Once exposed to full sun again, Crocosmia should return to flower.” You may also have chosen a spot which does not provide the moist but free-draining, fertile soil conditions that these plants require. Transplanting to a more suitable spot, or amending the soil with plenty of organic matter, could solve this problem. Older Plant Not Flowering If you have a crocosmia in your garden which has flowered well in previous years and is obviously in a suitable spot, another issue is to blame. One of the most common reasons why crocosmia fails to flower after having done so well in previous years is congestion. Mature clumps of these plants should usually be lifted and divided every 2-3 years. Crocosmia may also fail to flower or have a poor flowering year because corms did not develop as they should over the winter months. You may have cut back the crocosmia too soon after flowering and not given them the chance to photosynthesise and gather energy for the next year in their corms. The corms may also have been damaged by cold in the winter. In northern areas, it can be a good idea to lay a thick mulch over the corms to keep them safe over the coldest months. Failure to flower, in new plants but especially in more mature ones, may also be down to a problem with fertility. If you have fed crocosmia with a strong nitrogen fertiliser, this may encourage foliage growth at the expense of flowers. Your plants may also be suffering due to the depletion of potassium in the growing area, so feeding with a potassium-rich organic plant feed could help them flower next year.
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How Biennial Wallflowers Are Typically Grown From Seed (Or Via Plug Plants)
IN THIS GUIDE When To Sow Erysimum 1) Sow Wallflower Seeds 2) Place Tray In A Suitable Spot 3) Prick Out Seedlings & Pot On 4) Plant Out In Autumn / Spring Erysimum, also known as wallflowers, can be either perennial, biennial or annual and they can make great additions to many different gardens. Biennial wallflowers are the most common ones to grow. Typically called bedding wallflowers, these are usually grown from seed, though you can also purchase plug plants. To grow biennial bedding wallflowers from seed: Sow seeds into a seed tray filled with a suitable seed-starting potting mix. Place somewhere relatively cool but sheltered. After 4-5 weeks, prick out seedlings and pot on into their own individual containers. Plant out in the garden in autumn or the following spring. Read about this process in more detail below. When To Sow Erysimum Wallflower seeds are sown in the spring, typically between March and May. These plants are biennial, so you will need to tend your young plants throughout the summer, autumn and winter before you are rewarded with flowers the following spring. 1) Sow Wallflower Seeds Fill a seed tray with a suitably moist yet free-draining seed-starting compost, which is also peat-free. Then, sow your seeds sparsely into the surface of this medium, before covering them lightly with a fine layer of the potting mix. “When I first started gardening, we used to sow biennial wallflowers in seed beds outdoors,” shares Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly. “In the autumn, we would dig them up and transplant them to their final planting position. “Erysimum grown in a similar way in nurse beds are sold as bare-root perennials in the autumn from garden centres and by post. “If you want to grow quite a few Erysimum, this could be a useful technique to use at home.” 2) Place Tray In A Suitable Spot Place the tray in a cold frame or in a sheltered location outdoors and wait for germination to take place. Make sure that the medium stays moderately moist during this time. 3) Prick Out Seedlings & Pot On After 4-5 weeks, the seeds should have germinated and the seedlings will be large enough to handle. Holding each one by a leaf, gently prick them out and place them into their own individual pots to grow on until they are ready to plant out. Make sure that you tend the young plants, watering when required over the summer. 4) Plant Out In Autumn / Spring You can then plant out your young plants in autumn or keep them in their pots and plant them out the following spring. You should expect these biennial spring bedding plants to flower in the spring, around a year after sowing.
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You Can Grow Fritillaria In Pots, But Keep Them In A Greenhouse Says Dr Robert Wallis
IN THIS GUIDE Can You Grow Fritillaria In Pots? Choosing Suitable Containers Choosing A Compost Potting Up Bulbs Potted Snakeshead Fritillaries Care Snake’s Head Fritillary, Fritillaria meleagris, is a beautiful spring bulb which has very distinctive flowers, usually with a purple checked pattern. These can grow well in a range of different settings, as long as the conditions are moist but relatively free-draining and they are exposed to full sun or dappled shade. Can You Grow Fritillaria In Pots? “The vast majority of fritillarias grow quite happily in pots, as long as they are kept in a greenhouse”, shares Dr Robert Wallis from The Fritillaria Group. Robert is right: these spring bulbs can be great for growing in containers, though it is worthwhile noting that this will require a little more care than growing them in the ground. One of the key considerations is that watering needs will be higher, and balancing moisture content will be your key concern since these plants need some moisture but rarely tolerate any waterlogged soil. Another thing to think about is that F. meleagris are H5 hardy. They will make it through the winter fine when in the ground across most of the UK, but in pots, they will be somewhat more vulnerable and may need some extra insulation to protect them in the coldest parts of the British Isles. Choosing Suitable Containers When choosing a container for this plant, the most important thing is to choose a container with sufficient drainage that also does not dry out too quickly either. Terracotta pots can work well, as they can help regulate moisture content, but you can also use a range of repurposed objects as containers and up-cycling can be a great eco-friendly idea. Make sure that the pot or container you choose has good drainage at the base. “Depth is important when selecting a container,” Master Horticulturist Peter Lickorish explains. “A minimum of 30cm is ideal for most bulbs, and one nearly double this depth would be appropriate for the taller crown imperial fritillaries.” Choosing A Compost “The compost needs to be well-drained, so I’d normally use a loam-based medium with lots of added drainage material”, Robert recommends. Loam-based composts sink in pots, so it is worth firming down at intervals whilst filling pots, to prevent the level dropping too much later on. It is a good idea to add organic mulch over the top to improve drainage. Potting Up Bulbs Snake’s head fritillary bulbs should be planted at a depth of around 4 times their own height. The bulbs should be handled carefully as they can be quite fragile and you should plant them at least 10cm apart for more long-lasting container displays, or a little closer for a seasonal display. How Many Should You Plant Per Pot? You can place around 5 bulbs in a 10cm pot if you are planting on transferring the plants to your garden before they flower, or after they die back. But if planning on growing on in a container, you will usually aim for around 5-7 in a 30-40cm pot. However, remember that you can also combine fritillaries in a container for a mixed display with other plants. You can place other spring flowering or early summer flowering bulbs in layers to create a bulb lasagna, or you can plant up a container with other relatively low-growing perennials which like similar conditions and allow the snake’s heads to pop up through the other planting. Consider adding a trailing plant, like a variegated ivy, to further layer the interest. Potted Snakeshead Fritillaries Care Place your container in a sunny position, or in light, dappled shade. “Raising the container off solid surfaces using pot feet or placing pots on gravel will help ensure the much-needed drainage,” adds Peter. Water well, ensuring that the medium does not dry out, but also make sure that the medium does not become too waterlogged. “Watering is the most important factor in container cultivation”, says Dr Robert Wallis. “Although fritillaries should be kept moist during winter, water can be increased a bit as they come into growth in the spring”. “During the summer, withhold water. Overwatering is the usual cause of problems in pots”. “It results in root rots, poor growth, early dormancy and often loss of the bulbs”. If you decide to feed your container-grown fritillaries, make sure that you use an organic, potassium-rich fertiliser in spring. Too much nitrogen can encourage too much leafy growth rather than flowers. Top dress pots in spring with a mulch of potassium-rich compost or other organic material for slow-release fertility and moisture retention. Look out for slugs and snails in spring and for lily beetles in summer. Allow the foliage to die back naturally and do not remove it while it is still green. A period of photosynthesis is required for fritillaries to store nutrients required for next year’s growth and flowering. Once the leaves die back, you can cut back the stems to just above the level of the growing medium. In longer-term displays, you may decide to thin the clumps by removing bulbils from around the sides of the plants if things become a little congested. You can also easily take the small bulbils and plant them up in new containers to increase your plant collection over time.
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Container Chrysanthemums - Experts Recommend Pots With At Least A 30cm Diameter
IN THIS GUIDE Can You Grow Chrysanthemum In Pots? Choosing A Plant Pot Choosing Compost Potting Up Chrysanthemum ‘Mums’ Container Care Chrysanthemums are versatile plants which come in a range of different varieties, with diverse blooms in a staggering array of colours. Some are quite hardy and can sometimes even be grown in the garden year-round, while others must definitely be brought indoors over the winter months. Can You Grow Chrysanthemum In Pots? Chrysanthemums can be an excellent choice for container planting. Hardier garden chrysanthemums make wonderful displays for an autumn garden, while later flowering, more tender types will bloom indoors in a cool room over the winter months. Growing chrysanthemums in pots can require a little more work than growing them in the ground over the summer but can make things easier when it comes to moving chrysanthemums of both types indoors for winter. Dwarf types are naturally well-suited to container growing. Choosing A Plant Pot When choosing a container for your chrysanthemum, it is best to select a pot which is at least 30cm in diameter. As these are plants which require relatively free-draining conditions, it is important to ensure that you choose a container which has good drainage at the base. If you are growing a taller type, remember that it will need staking and the pot should be heavy and stable enough to prevent it from toppling over. Choosing Compost The best way to fill containers for chrysanthemums is with a peat-free John Innes No. 2 compost or a homemade equivalent. Add an organic mulch (such as a homemade compost) over the tops of the pots to retain moisture and add slow-release fertility. Potting Up Chrysanthemum Chrysanthemums can be purchased as newly rooted cuttings or young plants in spring, established young plants in early to mid-summer, or as mature plants in full bloom in late summer or early autumn for an instant display. Pot up the plant you have chosen as required if it is pot-bound in its existing container. How Many ‘Mums’ Can You Plant Per Pot? One chrysanthemum is typically planted in a pot of at least 30cm in diameter. However, you can use a larger container and plant several chrysanthemums at the same time. You might also plant up a mixed larger container display with other plants which like similar conditions and which will aesthetically complement your selected chrysanthemum plants. Remember, the larger the containers you have, the less watering will typically be required, since they will dry out more slowly. “The type of pot will also influence the rate of drying,” shares Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly. “Plastic pots retain moisture within the pot whilst terracotta pots allow moisture to evaporate. “The choice will be a trade-off between the size of the pot, its position and the style of the garden.” However, make sure that you will be able to move your containers when you need to do so at the end of the growing season. ‘Mums’ Container Care Water regularly, especially during dry periods over the summer. Never let the growing medium dry out entirely, but take care not to overwater or cause waterlogged conditions. Feed with blood fish and bone to boost growth in April and apply a nitrogen-rich feed to encourage good lush foliage growth in June. Feed early flowering types with a weekly high-potassium feed (such as comfrey tea) during flowering. Pinch out young plants once they reach 20cm in height. Disbud and deadhead as desired to improve blooms or prolong the blooming period. In mild areas during winter, you may get away with placing container-grown chrysanthemums in a more sheltered spot outdoors out of extreme cold and wet conditions. However, it is usually best to move containers with chrysanthemums which have already flowered undercover to a frost-free location where the plants can overwinter in a dormant state. Those more tender types or those that are yet to flower should be potted up and moved indoors, into a cool room inside at around 10°C where they should then flower over the winter months. Take cuttings in spring to propagate new chrysanthemums for your container garden. Look out for problems like yellowing leaves or a lack of flowering, which could suggest a problem with environmental conditions or care, and also remain vigilant for other signs of pests and diseases. If you take good care of your chrysanthemums throughout the year, they should grace your container displays for several years to come.
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Your Chrysanthemum Might Be A Late Bloomer - Check These Reasons For Not Flowering
IN THIS GUIDE 1) Late-Bloomers 2) Lack Of Sun 3) Waterlogged Soil 4) Excess Nitrogen 5) Pests And Diseases Chrysanthemums are cheery flowering plants that work well in beds and borders, while late-flowering types flower in the winter months and can be grown as houseplants indoors. But what if your chrysanthemums fail to bloom? There are a range of reasons why chrysanthemums may fail to flower, but the most common reasons for an absence of blooms are: It is the wrong blooming season for the variety you are growing. Your plant is receiving too little sun. The roots of your Chrysanthemum are growing in overly wet or waterlogged conditions. There is excess nitrogen in the plant’s soil. Pests or diseases may have impacted your plants. Read on for a little more information to help you work out the reasons for this problem. 1) Late-Bloomers Remember, there are different types and cultivars of chrysanthemums and some bloom later than others, as Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly explains: “There are early, mid and late-flowering Chrysanthemums, flowering at different times from August through to November. “I like to grow a range if I can so that I can replace one pot for another as the season progresses from late summer to late autumn. ‘Remember to label your plants and note when it is due to flower.” Make sure you know which type or types you are growing, so you know precisely when you should expect it to bloom. Most hardy garden chrysanthemums will bloom in September and October, but more tender types will flower later, usually over the winter months. 2) Lack Of Sun Often, a problem with non-flowering is due to environmental conditions, such as excessive shade. Chrysanthemums are sun-loving plants, which should ideally be grown in full sun. If they do not get enough sun, they may not flower as well or they may fail to flower entirely. 3) Waterlogged Soil Another environmental problem which can lead to chrysanthemums failing to bloom is excessive water. These plants require relatively free draining conditions, so while they do need the soil or growing medium to remain moist, it is important not to overwater. Make sure that excess water can drain away freely and that waterlogging does not occur. 4) Excess Nitrogen If you have fed your chrysanthemums with a nitrogen-rich fertiliser or plant feed, this can sometimes encourage foliage growth at the expense of flowers. Always avoid synthetic nitrogen feeds and choose organic options. You should feed chrysanthemums with an organic liquid plant feed from late spring, but stop feeding as soon as the flower buds start to open. 5) Pests And Diseases Sometimes, especially where overwatering has occurred, chrysanthemums can develop fungal diseases, such as root rot and mould. White rust is one of the common fungal infections you may encounter. This causes discolouration and problems with the leaves, but where a plant is badly affected, its growth may be stunted and fail to flower. Pests like slugs and snails, aphids, leaf miners and eelworms may also have weakened your plant and stunted its growth, reducing flowering. You can reduce the chances of pest or disease problems by making sure you provide the appropriate growing conditions and care for your plants.
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21 RHS Award-Winning Chrysanthemum Types With Options For Any Region
IN THIS GUIDE 1) C. ‘Allouise’ 2) C. ‘Aluga White’ 3) C. ‘Bronze Elegance’ 4) C. ‘Barbara’ 5) C. ‘Cassandra’ 6) C. ‘Debonair’ 7) C. ‘Enbee Wedding’ 8) C. ‘Golden Cassandra’ 9) C. ‘Gold Mundial’ 10) C. ‘Happy Jogger’ 11) C. ‘Lynn’ 12) C. ‘Mayford Perfection’ 13) C. ‘May Shoesmith’ 14) C. ‘Mezzo Magenta’ 15) C. ‘Nantyderry Sunshine’ 16) C. ‘Pennine Oriel’ 17) C. ‘Roy Coopland’ 18) C. ‘Sicardo Orange’ 19) C. ‘Yellow John Hughes’ 20) C. ‘Yogigi Gold’ 21) C. ‘White Margaret’ There are a huge range of chrysanthemums to consider and it can be challenging to work out which varieties you should grow. When choosing a chrysanthemum, here are some of the key things to think about: Hardiness – some chrysanthemums are far hardier than others. Bloom Time – chrysanthemums vary in length of bloom time. Height & Size – of the particular variety you want to grow. Flower Form & Colour – of the specific cultivar. “Where you live in the UK will influence the Chrysanthemum you can grow outdoors,” adds Horticulturist Colin Skelly. “Most are RHS hardiness rating 3 (-5-1ºC )or 4 (-10-5ºC) but some are H2 (1-5ºC), making the timing of blooming essential before the first frosts can be expected.” To help you make up your mind, we’ve come up with this list of 21 options, all of which have been awarded the Award of Garden Merit (AGM) by the RHS. Although this list is just a starting point, I think that the options here could be a great place to start when aiming to choose the right chrysanthemum for you and your garden. 1) C. ‘Allouise’ HARDINESS RATING: H3 FLOWERS: pink FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer / autumn SOIL PREFERENCE: clay, loam, sand; any pH SIZE: 1-1.5m in height, 0.5-1m spread This dramatic chrysanthemum is an H3 hardy perennial which grows up to 1.2m tall. It has silvery-pink double flowers which are deeper pink in the centre, born in late summer and early autumn. 2) C. ‘Aluga White’ HARDINESS RATING: H4 FLOWERS: white and yellow FLOWERING SEASON(S): autumn SOIL PREFERENCE: loam; any pH SIZE: 0.5-1m in height, 0.1-0.5m spread ‘Aluga White’ is H4 hardy and has masses of white blooms with yellowish centres up to around 6cm in diameter that are borne in early autumn. Bushy perennials, they grow to around 75cm tall. 3) C. ‘Bronze Elegance’ HARDINESS RATING: H4 FLOWERS: bronze and orange FLOWERING SEASON(S): autumn SOIL PREFERENCE: clay, loam, sand; any pH SIZE: 0.5-1m in height, 0.1-0.5m spread H4 hardy, ‘bronze elegance’ is a Korean chrysanthemum, which has double pompon flowers 2.5cm across, in shades which range from light apricot to deep bronze, borne in autumn. The plant grows to around 70cm in height. 4) C. ‘Barbara’ HARDINESS RATING: H3 FLOWERS: pink FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer / autumn SOIL PREFERENCE: loam, chalk, sand; neutral pH SIZE: 0.1-0.5m in height, 0.1-0.5m spread This charming chrysanthemum is a compact, bushy herbaceous perennial growing to around 45cm in height. It has vivid pinky-purple double flowers which are long-lasting through early autumn. This option is H3 hardy. 5) C. ‘Cassandra’ HARDINESS RATING: H2 FLOWERS: pink and purple FLOWERING SEASON(S): autumn SOIL PREFERENCE: 0.5-1m in height, 0.5-1m spread SIZE: all soil types; any pH For growing indoors from early autumn to enjoy later blooms inside your home, this is one interesting option. H2 hardy, it flowers in late autumn, with pink double flowers with incurving florets, which grow to around 14cm across. 6) C. ‘Debonair’ HARDINESS RATING: H3 FLOWERS: pink and purple FLOWERING SEASON(S): autumn SOIL PREFERENCE: all soil types; any pH SIZE: 0.1-0.5m in height, 0.1-0.5m spread This compact chrysanthemum is H3 hardy and grows to around 30cm in height. It produces sprays of rosy pink florets, pale pink on the reverse, which are around 5cm across. The double flower heads have overlapping recurved ray florets, born in autumn. 7) C. ‘Enbee Wedding’ HARDINESS RATING: H3 FLOWERS: yellow and pink FLOWERING SEASON(S): autumn SOIL PREFERENCE: clay, loam, sand; any pH SIZE: 1-1.5m in height, 0.1-0.5m spread The excellent ‘Enbee Wedding’ range offers a selection of cultivars in different colours. They grow to around 1.2m in height and are H3 hardy. 8) C. ‘Golden Cassandra’ HARDINESS RATING: H2 FLOWERS: yellow FLOWERING SEASON(S): all soil types; any pH SOIL PREFERENCE: all soil types; any pH SIZE: 0.5-1m in height, 0.1-0.5m spread This indoor chrysanthemum is H2 hardy. It is a tender perennial which has 13cm wide flowers of a lovely golden yellow hue, with florets which are recurved and paler on the reverse. 9) C. ‘Gold Mundial’ HARDINESS RATING: H2 FLOWERS: yellow FLOWERING SEASON(S): autumn SOIL PREFERENCE: all soil types; any pH SIZE: 0.5-1m in height, 0.5-1m spread This charming chrysanthemum is a tender (H2) perennial with flower heads that have protruding domes at the centre formed by inner florets. This is a free-flowering spray chrysanthemum with cherry-gold centres and florets of dull gold, which are paler on the reverse. This plant flowers in the autumn. 10) C. ‘Happy Jogger’ HARDINESS RATING: H3 FLOWERS: pink and purple FLOWERING SEASON(S): autumn SOIL PREFERENCE: loam; any pH SIZE: 0.1-0.5m in height, 0.1-0.5m spread This compact H3 hardy chrysanthemum has vibrant deep pink to purple flowers which are borne from early autumn. It grows to around 50cm high. 11) C. ‘Lynn’ HARDINESS RATING: H3 FLOWERS: purple FLOWERING SEASON(S): autumn SOIL PREFERENCE: all soil types; any pH SIZE: 0.1-0.5m in height, 0.1-0.5m spread This half-hardy option has lilac florets, fading to a deeper purple-pink within the centre, and purple colouration on the reverse. It is bushy, with a compact growth habit. This is one of the Reflexed Charm groups of Chrysanthemums. It flowers in autumn. 12) C. ‘Mayford Perfection’ HARDINESS RATING: H2 FLOWERS: orange FLOWERING SEASON(S): autumn SOIL PREFERENCE: all soil types; any pH SIZE: 1-1.5m in height, 0.5-1m spread This is a large flowering indoor chrysanthemum, which has large, fully double, loosely spherical flowers in a delightful salmon-orange hue. A late flowering type, it produces blooms from late autumn and is H2 hardy. 13) C. ‘May Shoesmith’ HARDINESS RATING: H2 FLOWERS: white FLOWERING SEASON(S): autumn SOIL PREFERENCE: all soil types; any pH SIZE: 0.5-1m in height, 0.1-0.5m spread Another large-flowered indoor type that is H2 hardy, this chrysanthemum has double, loosely spherical flowering heads, which are white and up to around 13.5cm across. The plant grows to around 85cm in height. 14) C. ‘Mezzo Magenta’ HARDINESS RATING: H3 FLOWERS: pink FLOWERING SEASON(S): autumn SOIL PREFERENCE: loam; neutral pH SIZE: 0.1-0.5m in height, 0.1-0.5m spread ‘Mezzo Magenta’ is naturally compact and bushy, growing around 30cm tall and bearing an abundance of pinky-purple, double flowers from early autumn. It is H3 hardy. 15) C. ‘Nantyderry Sunshine’ HARDINESS RATING: H4 FLOWERS: yellow and orange FLOWERING SEASON(S): autumn SOIL PREFERENCE: clay, loam, sand; any pH SIZE: 0.5-1m in height, 0.1-0.5m spread This H4 hardy chrysanthemum is an early flowering, outdoor, semi-pom pom type. This herbaceous perennial grows to around 90cm tall and is compact and bushy in form. Little flowers, 3cm wide, are a cheery bright yellow and the inner florets are tipped with a deeper orange-yellow hue. 16) C. ‘Pennine Oriel’ HARDINESS RATING: H3 FLOWERS: yellow and cream FLOWERING SEASON(S): autumn SOIL PREFERENCE: clay, loam, sand; any pH SIZE: 1-1.5m in height, 0.1-0.5m spread H3 hardy, this perennial is 1.2m in height, with white-cream flowers 8cm across which are borne in early autumn. The disk florets are tipped with light yellowy colouration. 17) C. ‘Roy Coopland’ HARDINESS RATING: H2 FLOWERS: bronze FLOWERING SEASON(S): autumn SOIL PREFERENCE: all soil types; any pH SIZE: 1-1.5m in height, 0.1-0.5m spread This tender chrysanthemum is an indoor type. It has dramatic bronze flowers which can grow to 15cm across, and the florets, which open from late autumn, are a light greenish-yellow at the bottom and paler on the reverse. 18) C. ‘Sicardo Orange’ HARDINESS RATING: H3 FLOWERS: bronze, red and orange FLOWERING SEASON(S): autumn SOIL PREFERENCE: loam; neutral pH SIZE: 0.1-0.5m in height, 0.1-0.5m spread This compact and rounded herbaceous perennial grows to around 50cm tall. It is H3 hardy and bears an abundance of double flowers in the autumn. The flowers have deep dark red to bronze inner florets and paler outer ones in orange hues. 19) C. ‘Yellow John Hughes’ HARDINESS RATING: H2 FLOWERS: yellow FLOWERING SEASON(S): autumn SOIL PREFERENCE: all soil types; any pH SIZE: 0.5-1m in height, 0.5-1m spread This remarkable tender, medium-flowered, indoor chrysanthemum has light yellow, spherical flowers 9cm across which are borne from late autumn. 20) C. ‘Yogigi Gold’ HARDINESS RATING: H3 FLOWERS: yellow and gold FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer / autumn SOIL PREFERENCE: loam; any pH SIZE: 0.1-0.5m in height, 0.1-0.5m spread This H3 hardy chrysanthemum is a compact and upright plant that branches freely. It has golden-yellow flowers which are borne in abundance in the late summer and early autumn. 21) C. ‘White Margaret’ HARDINESS RATING: H3 FLOWERS: yellow and white FLOWERING SEASON(S): autumn SOIL PREFERENCE: clay, loam, sand; any pH SIZE: 0.5-1m in height, 0.1-0.5m spread This half-hardy perennial has lovely white flowers which grow to around 7cm in diameter. These flowers are yellow-tinged to the interior, with white reverses tipped with yellow. As mentioned above, any list can only ever be highly selective, but the options on this list are all certainly interesting chrysanthemum options for you to consider.
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Coral, Peach And Apricot Flowers - Here Are 35 Ornate Orange Perennials To Grow This Year
IN THIS GUIDE 1) Blackberry Lily 2) Blanket Flower 3) Orange Ball Tree 4) Butterfly Weed 5) California Poppy 6) Canna Lily 7) Chrysanthemum 8) Shrubby Cinquefoil 9) Dahlia 10) Daylily 11) Gerbera Daisy 12) Avens 13) Giant Montbretia 14) Globe Flower 15) Golden Pea 16) Hawkweed 17) Helenium 18) Himalayan Spurge 19) Georgian Fleabane 20) Iris 21) Lantana 22) Ligularia 23) Monkey Flower 24) Orange Coneflower 25) Chinese Trumpet Vine 26) Peony 27) Persian Buttercup 28) Peruvian Lily 29) Rainbow Bitter Root 30) Rock Rose 31) Red-Hot Poker 32) Tulip 33) Wallflower 34) Welsh Poppy 35) Bird Of Paradise References Orange is a great choice for those who want to add some flair and flavour to their garden and perennials excel at creating a long-term outdoor display. Encompassing a range of colours from coral to peach to apricot, these orange-flowering plants will be just as enticing to winged pollinators as they are to green-fingered people. 1) Blackberry Lily BOTANICAL NAME: Iris domestica HARDINESS RATING: H7 FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer SUNLIGHT: full sun / partial shade EXPOSURE: sheltered SOIL PREFERENCE: clay or loam; any pH SIZE: 0.5-1m in height, 0.1-0.5m spread The name here is somewhat misleading, since there are no black tones nor berries in sight, and the plant is not even a true lily! Instead, it belongs to the iris family – but don’t hold that against it. The delicate orange blossoms, speckled with delightful red spots, can last for several months and brighten up any space. 2) Blanket Flower BOTANICAL NAME: Gaillardia pulchella HARDINESS RATING: H4 FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer / autumn SUNLIGHT: full sun EXPOSURE: exposed / sheltered SOIL PREFERENCE: chalk, loam, sand; any pH SIZE: 0.1-0.5m in height, 0.1-0.5m spread From its bulbous dark-red stigma, the blanket flower gradually softens into orange and yellow at its tips. This makes for a supremely warm and autumnal sight for sore eyes that is every bit as enticing to butterflies as it is to humans. It’s hardy enough and overwinters well, so should thrive in most parts of the UK. 3) Orange Ball Tree BOTANICAL NAME: Buddleja globosa HARDINESS RATING: H5 FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer SUNLIGHT: full sun / partial shade EXPOSURE: sheltered SOIL PREFERENCE: all soil types; any pH SIZE: 4-8m in height, 4-8m spread This semi-evergreen shrub can reach a whopping 5m in height, so bear that in mind when selecting and planting it. The dark green leaves resemble snake tongues, while the globose rosettes of the orange flower heads are around 2cm in diameter and appear without fail in the early summer months. 4) Butterfly Weed BOTANICAL NAME: Asclepias tuberosa HARDINESS RATING: H4 FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer / autumn SUNLIGHT: full sun EXPOSURE: sheltered SOIL PREFERENCE: clay, loam, sand; acidic or alkaline pH SIZE: 0.5-1m in height, 0.1-0.5m spread A magnet for butterflies and honeybees, this attractive plant is considered an invasive weed and will spread rapidly if left unattended. Having said that, it’s not the worst problem in the world, since the dainty clusters of orange blossoms bobbing atop the vibrancy of its green foliage is a beautiful sight in its own right. 5) California Poppy BOTANICAL NAME: Eschscholzia californica HARDINESS RATING: H3 FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer SUNLIGHT: full sun EXPOSURE: exposed / shelteredf SOIL PREFERENCE: loam or sand; any pH SIZE: 0.1-0.5m in height, 0.1-0.5m spread The cupped blossoms of the California poppy seem to spring up overnight, carpeting the surrounding area in a wave of orange vitality. Although they grow very fast, their beauty is ephemeral; you’ll struggle to even put picked flowers in a vase before their blooms wilt away. “As mentioned, California poppies are not perennial in the UK and, although you can buy seeds, you are more likely to have them self-seed from neighbouring gardens,” shares Master Horticulturist Dan Ori. “Once established, they may or may not be a nice surprise as they pop up unexpectedly around your garden.” They will need to be grown as annuals in colder areas of the UK. 6) Canna Lily BOTANICAL NAME: Canna × generalis HARDINESS RATING: H2 FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer / autumn SUNLIGHT: full sun EXPOSURE: sheltered SOIL PREFERENCE: all soil types; any pH SIZE: 0.5-1m in height, 0.1-0.5m spread Offering an excellent burst of colour and very little in the way of upkeep, canna lilies are far hardier than their extravagant aesthetics might suggest. Both flowers and foliage will last for many months throughout the year and can be overwintered indoors to act as perennials, but if planted outdoors, they’ll typically grow as annuals. “Canna lilies are not perennial in the UK, but they do make a good houseplant if the room is not too dry, so I recommend trying to overwinter them,” says Dan. “It is common for cannas to be overwatered indoors during the winter, often because they are in pot covers that allow them to sit in water. “When growing indoors, other than not overwatering, my top advice would be to bring them indoors during early autumn and keep them out of cold drafts.” 7) Chrysanthemum BOTANICAL NAME: Chrysanthemum ‘Sicardo Orange’ HARDINESS RATING: H3 FLOWERING SEASON(S): autumn SUNLIGHT: full sun EXPOSURE: sheltered SOIL PREFERENCE: loam; neutral pH SIZE: 0.1-0.5m in height, 0.1-0.5m spread Chrysanthemums are often associated with the colour red but are actually available in a variety of hues, including a brilliant orange that is guaranteed to add punch and pizzazz to any arrangement. They can reach up to 90cm in height and will do best if treated to frequent watering due to their shallow rooting habits. 8) Shrubby Cinquefoil BOTANICAL NAME: Potentilla fruticosa ‘Hopleys Orange’ HARDINESS RATING: H7 FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer / autumn SUNLIGHT: full sun / partial shade EXPOSURE: exposed / sheltered SOIL PREFERENCE: chalk, loam, sand; any pH SIZE: 0.5-1m in height, 0.5-1m spread This gorgeous perennial bush is populated with an abundance of button-shaped blooms which last throughout the summer months. It’s a fast grower and can exceed 2m in height and spread if left to its own devices, while it’s also resistant to most types of pests and predators. 9) Dahlia BOTANICAL NAME: Dahlia ‘Orange Nugget’ HARDINESS RATING: H3 FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer / autumn SUNLIGHT: full sun EXPOSURE: sheltered SOIL PREFERENCE: clay, loam, sand; any pH SIZE: 0.5-1m in height, 0.5-1m spread Reminiscent of the chrysanthemum, the dahlia boasts a fuller, more-rounded architecture to its rosette and dainty points at the tips of its petals. Of course, dahlias are available in a range of colours, but orange varieties can really spice up their surroundings. 10) Daylily BOTANICAL NAME: Hemerocallis fulva HARDINESS RATING: H7 FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer SUNLIGHT: full sun / partial shade EXPOSURE: exposed / sheltered SOIL PREFERENCE: all soil types; any pH SIZE: 0.5-1m in height, 0.5-1m spread Another plant whose beauty is short and sweet, the day-long duration of the blooms gives ‘the daylily’ its name. Not to worry, however, since a single plant can produce hundreds upon hundreds of flowers across the season. Once established, they require very little in the way of upkeep indeed. “Daylily varieties are my go-to plants when I need an orange perennial,” explains Dan. “Their ability to harmonise in a border with so many other plants while still being showy is what makes them special to me.” 11) Gerbera Daisy BOTANICAL NAME: Gerbera ‘Sweet Sunset’ HARDINESS RATING: H3 FLOWERING SEASON(S): spring / summer / autumn SUNLIGHT: full sun EXPOSURE: sheltered SOIL PREFERENCE: chalk, loam, sand; any pH SIZE: 0.1-0.5m in height, 0.1-0.5m spread Native to South Africa, Gerbera daisies prefer full sun and warmer temperatures, though hybrid varieties have been developed which can withstand colder climes. Their beautiful wheel-like flower heads should be pinched off as soon as they begin to wilt in order to prompt fresh growth and prolong the blooming season. 12) Avens BOTANICAL NAME: Geum ‘Totally Tangerine’ HARDINESS RATING: H7 FLOWERING SEASON(S): spring / summer / autumn SUNLIGHT: full sun EXPOSURE: exposed / sheltered SOIL PREFERENCE: all soil types; any pH SIZE: 0.5-1m in height, 0.1-0.5m spread A member of the rose family, geums are low-maintenance plants which often flower from spring all the way into autumn. Available with red, orange and yellow flowers, their growing habits (up to 50cm) makes them an ideal choice for the centre of a mixed border. 13) Giant Montbretia BOTANICAL NAME: Crocosmia masoniorum HARDINESS RATING: H4 FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer SUNLIGHT: partial shade EXPOSURE: sheltered SOIL PREFERENCE: all soil types; any pH SIZE: 1-1.5m in height, 0.1-0.5m spread As the name suggests, these attractive plants can exceed 1m in height and as such, are better suited to the rear of your display. Their clusters of orangey-red flowers appear in late summer from July to August, but their swordlike foliage should provide attraction year-round. This plant can be invasive if left unattended. 14) Globe Flower BOTANICAL NAME: Trollius × cultorum ‘Orange Princess’ HARDINESS RATING: H7 FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer SUNLIGHT: full sun / partial shade EXPOSURE: exposed / sheltered SOIL PREFERENCE: clay or loam; any pH SIZE: 0.5-1m in height, 0.1-0.5m spread Extremely versatile, globe flowers love moisture and therefore do best when situated next to a pond, stream or bog garden. Having said that, their buttercup-like blossoms will liven up any bed or border with minimum fuss, as long as you remember to keep them well hydrated. 15) Golden Pea BOTANICAL NAME: Lathyrus aureus HARDINESS RATING: H6 FLOWERING SEASON(S): spring / summer SUNLIGHT: full sun / partial shade EXPOSURE: exposed / sheltered SOIL PREFERENCE: clay, loam, sand; any pH SIZE: 0.5-1m in height, 0.1-0.5m spread Golden Peas belong to the Lathyrus family, some of which are cultivated for food production. However, home growers should simply marvel at the profusion of golden-orange flower heads which appear in early summer on each of its upright stems. 16) Hawkweed BOTANICAL NAME: Hieracium aurantiacum HARDINESS RATING: H5 FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer SUNLIGHT: full sun / partial shade EXPOSURE: exposed / sheltered SOIL PREFERENCE: chalk, loam, sand; any pH SIZE: 0.1-0.5m in height, 0.5-1m spread Hawkweed is notable for the architectural intrigue and bright orange colour of its blossoms, which appear between June and August each year. As the ‘weed’ part of its name suggests, it’s invasive and will spread out of control once established, so bear that in mind when choosing a location to plant it. 17) Helenium BOTANICAL NAME: Helenium ‘Sahin’s Early Flowerer’ HARDINESS RATING: H7 FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer / autumn SUNLIGHT: full sun EXPOSURE: exposed / sheltered SOIL PREFERENCE: all soil types; any pH SIZE: 0.5-1m in height, 0.1-0.5m spread Characterised by bulbous stamens and thin, daisy-like petals, heleniums grow to a reasonable height and are often favoured for providing background colour. 18) Himalayan Spurge BOTANICAL NAME: Euphorbia griffithii HARDINESS RATING: H7 FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer SUNLIGHT: partial shade EXPOSURE: exposed / sheltered SOIL PREFERENCE: clay or loam; any pH SIZE: 0.5-1m in height, 0.5-1m spread Native to Bhutan, Tibet and regions of southern China, the Himalayan spurge has dark red stems supporting bright green leaves and red or orange blossoms in the early summertime.1 It’s fast-spreading and can sometimes be invasive. 19) Georgian Fleabane BOTANICAL NAME: Inula orientalis HARDINESS RATING: H6 FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer SUNLIGHT: full sun / partial shade EXPOSURE: sheltered / exposed SOIL PREFERENCE: all soil types; any pH SIZE: 0.1-0.5m in height, 0.1-0.5m spread With large disc-like blossoms reminiscent of an oversized common daisy, Inula orientalis hails from Asia and is fully hardy for cultivation in the UK. It’s a versatile little plant which will do well in almost all conditions, except waterlogged terrain with no sun exposure – but that’s the same for most perennials! 20) Iris BOTANICAL NAME: Iris ‘Orange Harvest’ HARDINESS RATING: H7 FLOWERING SEASON(S): spring / summer / autumn SUNLIGHT: full sun EXPOSURE: exposed / sheltered SOIL PREFERENCE: loam or sand; acidic to neutral pH SIZE: 0.5-1m in height, 0.1-0.5m spread With their 80cm stature and paper-like flowers, irises are fragile but fascinating additions to your garden. They’re generally quite low-maintenance creatures but don’t do well when starved of water, so take care to make sure their soil doesn’t dry out completely. Their flowers appear between May and July. 21) Lantana BOTANICAL NAME: Lantana camara HARDINESS RATING: H1C FLOWERING SEASON(S): spring / summer / autumn SUNLIGHT: full sun EXPOSURE: sheltered SOIL PREFERENCE: all soil types; any pH SIZE: 1-1.5m in height, 1-1.5m spread These vining plants look every bit as attractive when climbing up a trellis, tree branch or exterior wall as they do when trailing from a hanging basket. They come in a variety of different colours, from blue to white to orange, and will thrive if treated to well-draining soil and plenty of irrigation. They will need overwintering indoors to survive as perennials in the UK. “You may find Lantana hard to overwinter, which is why I regard it as an annual and sow new plants each year,” Dan says. 22) Ligularia BOTANICAL NAME: Ligularia dentata HARDINESS RATING: H6 FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer / autumn SUNLIGHT: full sun / partial shade EXPOSURE: sheltered SOIL PREFERENCE: all soil types; any pH SIZE: 1-1.5m in height, 0.5-1m spread Almost as popular for their lush, lance-like foliage as they are for their yellow and orange blossoms, ligularias are often known as leopard plants for the combination of colours on their flower heads. Their Latin name comes from the word for tongue and derives from the shape of the petals emanating from the central disc.2 23) Monkey Flower BOTANICAL NAME: Mimulus aurantiacus HARDINESS RATING: H2 FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer / autumn SUNLIGHT: full sun / partial shade EXPOSURE: exposed / sheltered SOIL PREFERENCE: all soil types; any pH SIZE: 0.5-1m in height, 0.5-1m spread Monkey flowers gained their common name due to the assertion that the petals on some varieties look like the face of our simian friends, but you might have to use your imagination a little bit to see the resemblance! Nonetheless, their fused petals and bright colours are supremely attractive, meaning they’ve spread far beyond their native Americas. Unfortunately they will not survive the winter period outdoors in the United Kingdom. “Mimulus aurantiacus is one to grow under winter-heated glass, so it is best not to regard it as an outdoor plant, although for some it is worth the work of moving large containers to have it outside in the summer,” says Dan. 24) Orange Coneflower BOTANICAL NAME: Echinacea ‘orange passion’ HARDINESS RATING: H5 FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer / autumn SUNLIGHT: full sun EXPOSURE: exposed / sheltered SOIL PREFERENCE: chalk, loam, sand; any pH SIZE: 0.5-1m in height, 0.1-0.5m spread Orange coneflowers are among the most popular orange perennials in the UK and elsewhere. The yellowy-orange petals are arranged in a pleasing star-like formation around a dark central stamen, while the hairy texture is unique and soft to the touch. 25) Chinese Trumpet Vine BOTANICAL NAME: Campsis grandiflora HARDINESS RATING: H4 FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer / autumn SUNLIGHT: full sun EXPOSURE: sheltered SOIL PREFERENCE: all soil types; any pH SIZE: 8-12m in height, 2.5-4m spread Originally hailing from the tropical climates of Paraguay and Brazil, the orange trumpet might be difficult to establish in the UK.3 If you succeed, however, you’ll be treated to fantastic evergreen vines populated by orange tubular blossoms in the wintertime, adding some much-needed life to your garden in the colder months. 26) Peony BOTANICAL NAME: Paeonia ‘Coral Charm’ HARDINESS RATING: H6 FLOWERING SEASON(S): spring / summer SUNLIGHT: full sun / partial shade EXPOSURE: sheltered SOIL PREFERENCE: clay, loam, sand; any pH SIZE: 0.5-1m in height, 0.5-1m spread Another staple of the Great British gardening scene, peonies come in all types of shapes, colours and sizes. The orange-coloured specimen above is a personal favourite of mine and can change its tones as it matures, so keep an eye out for a mesmerising metamorphosis throughout its blooming season. 27) Persian Buttercup BOTANICAL NAME: Ranunculus asiaticus HARDINESS RATING: H4 FLOWERING SEASON(S): spring / summer SUNLIGHT: full sun EXPOSURE: sheltered SOIL PREFERENCE: loam or sand; any pH SIZE: 0.1-0.5m in height, 0.1-0.5m spread The flower heads of this beautiful perennial look like the paper-mâché creations that we used to knock together at school, though nature is a far better craftsman than I or my classmates ever were. Its preference for cooler climes makes it ideal for UK cultivation, as in hotter regions, the petals will simply wither and die. “Choose your varieties with care, as only a few Ranunculus are perennial in the UK,” warns Dan. 28) Peruvian Lily BOTANICAL NAME: Alstroemeria ‘Orange Glory’ HARDINESS RATING: H4 FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer / autumn SUNLIGHT: full sun / partial shade EXPOSURE: sheltered SOIL PREFERENCE: all soil types; any pH SIZE: 0.5-1m in height, 0.5-1m spread This bushy perennial can achieve almost 1m in height with a similar spread, so remember to give it plenty of elbow room when planting. Once flowering begins, you’ll be delighted with the range of lily-like flower heads which appear all over its body, the dark flecks offsetting the brilliance of its orange petals. 29) Rainbow Bitter Root BOTANICAL NAME: Lewisia cotyledon ‘rainbow’ HARDINESS RATING: H4 FLOWERING SEASON(S): spring / summer SUNLIGHT: partial shade EXPOSURE: exposed / sheltered SOIL PREFERENCE: loam or sand; acidic to neutral SIZE: 0.1-0.5m in height, 0.1-0.5m spread This herbaceous evergreen perennial is often mistaken for a succulent, due to the waxiness of its leaves and its tolerance for drought. Despite the interesting foliage, it’s the star-shaped flowers which are the real attraction for the eye-catching array of pinks, reds, oranges and yellows which adorn them. 30) Rock Rose BOTANICAL NAME: Helianthemum ‘Coppernob’ HARDINESS RATING: H4 FLOWERING SEASON(S): spring / summer SUNLIGHT: full sun EXPOSURE: exposed / sheltered SOIL PREFERENCE: all soil types; alkaline to neutral pH SIZE: 0.1-0.5m in height, 0.1-0.5m spread The deep orange of the tissue-paper petals on a rock rose plant looks particularly stunning set against the lush greenery of its foliage. It’s an excellent choice for beginners, given that it will survive in almost all conditions, including with very little water, but it does best in full sunlight. 31) Red-Hot Poker BOTANICAL NAME: Kniphofia uvaria HARDINESS RATING: H5 FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer / autumn SUNLIGHT: full sun EXPOSURE: exposed / sheltered SOIL PREFERENCE: loam or sand; any pH SIZE: 0.5-1m in height, 1-1.5m spread There are few perennials more impressive than the torch lily, which gains its name from the changing colours of the flowers on the conical stem, which graduates from yellow nearer the base through apricot and coral up to a soft red at its apex. As such, it really does resemble a flaming torch. 32) Tulip BOTANICAL NAME: Tulipa ‘Orange Angélique’ HARDINESS RATING: H6 FLOWERING SEASON(S): spring SUNLIGHT: full sun EXPOSURE: sheltered SOIL PREFERENCE: all soil types; any pH SIZE: 0.1-0.5m in height, 0.1-0.5m spread Tulips come in a wide variety of hues, but there are plenty of oranges cultivars to choose from. ‘William of Orange’, ‘Orange Queen’ and ‘Orange Angelique’ (pictured above) are just some of the options on offer. Whichever you choose, their mid-range height and soft coral tones make them ideal for the middle of a border. 33) Wallflower BOTANICAL NAME: Erysimum cheiri HARDINESS RATING: H5 FLOWERING SEASON(S): spring SUNLIGHT: full sun EXPOSURE: exposed / sheltered SOIL PREFERENCE: chalk, loam, sand; alkaline to neutral pH SIZE: 0.1-0.5m in height, 0.1-0.5m spread Native to southern Europe, the wallflower gains its name from the fact that it’s so adept at dealing with dry soil that it can even sprout from between the silty cracks in brickwork. Far from being bashful like their human namesakes, however, wallflowers are extremely hardy, yet still very pretty to look at. Their four-petalled flower heads come in blues, purples, reds, yellows and, of course, oranges. 34) Welsh Poppy BOTANICAL NAME: Papaver cambricum HARDINESS RATING: H6 FLOWERING SEASON(S): spring / summer / autumn SUNLIGHT: partial shade EXPOSURE: sheltered SOIL PREFERENCE: clay, loam, sand; acidic to neutral pH SIZE: 0.1-0.5m in height, 0.1-0.5m spread This softly orange poppy is a counterpart to the Californian variety mentioned above, though it differs in its preference for dark and damp locales. It’s often found in forested areas in the wild and under the shade of walls in captivity, but wherever it’s located, it will invariably attract pollinators by the bucketload. 35) Bird Of Paradise BOTANICAL NAME: Strelitzia reginae HARDINESS RATING: H1B FLOWERING SEASON(S): winter / spring SUNLIGHT: full sun / partial shade EXPOSURE: sheltered SOIL PREFERENCE: chalk, loam, sand; any pH SIZE: 1-1.5m in height, 0.5-1m spread Is it a bird? Is it a plane? Nope, just a dramatically attractive plant. Capable of growing to almost 2m in height, bird of paradise plants will need plenty of their own space and even more sunlight, though they must be grown exclusively indoors here in the UK. References 1. Euphorbia wallichii – Wallich Spurge. (n.d.). Flowers of India. Retrieved March 21, 2023, from https://www.flowersofindia.net/catalog/slides/Wallich%20Spurge.html 2. A Grammatical Dictionary of Botanical Latin. (n.d.). Missouri Botanical Garden. Retrieved March 21, 2023, from https://www.mobot.org/mobot/latindict/keyDetail.aspx?keyWord=lingua 3. Campsis radicans. (n.d.-b). Missouri Botanical Gardens. Retrieved March 21, 2023, from https://www.missouribotanicalgarden.org/PlantFinder/PlantFinderDetails.aspx?kempercode=b840
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Don't Deadhead Scabiosa If You Plan To Collect The Seeds Or Allow Self-Seeding
IN THIS GUIDE Should You Deadhead Scabiosa? Collecting Pincushion Seeds How To Deadhead Scabiosa Scabiosa is a genus which includes a number of flowering plant species perfect for attracting bees and butterflies to your garden. There are annual, biennial and perennial types, all of which are wonderful choices for a wildlife-friendly garden. These plants can work well in a range of different settings, whether that’s in more artfully arranged beds or borders, or in wilder and more natural schemes. One decision that you will have to make if you plan on growing some kind of scabiosa in your garden is whether or not you will deadhead your plants. Should You Deadhead Scabiosa? Whether or not you choose to deadhead Scabiosa flowers will depend on whether or not you plan to collect the seeds or allow self-seeding. It may also depend on practicalities and on which variety or varieties you are growing, and where. Scabiosa varieties are often chosen for a low-maintenance wildlife-friendly garden scheme. In such gardens, deadheading may not be high on the priority list. You may prefer to simply leave your pincushion flowers to bloom and set seed naturally within a low-maintenance garden area or wildflower meadow. Working in harmony with nature in this way by letting nature take the reins is a good choice for those with less time on their hands. Scabious can also be grown in beds or borders in, for example, a cottage garden style scheme, where aesthetics and order are likely to be a little more important. If you are growing scabiosa in such a setting, then deadheading can give you beautiful blooms for longer and keep your garden looking good. “If a large flowered Scabiosa was next to a path or in a pot, I would deadhead it,” shares Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly. “This would enhance its appearance whilst I would also not want the plant to self-seed in this context. “On the other hand, if grown in a naturalistic or meadow context, the seed heads and self-sowing would be central to the aesthetic and function of the plants.” Collecting Pincushion Seeds If you do wish to collect the seeds or want to allow for the possibility of self-seeding, then do not deadhead too zealously, as if you remove all the spent flowers, the plants will not have the opportunity to go to seed. However, if you do not desire seeds, deadheading scabiosa can be a good idea. Removing the flowers once they have faded will focus the plants’ energy on further bloom production and extend the flowering period. How To Deadhead Scabiosa If you do decide to deadhead some scabiosa in a bed or border to prolong the blooming period and prevent the plants from going to seed, then this is a very simple process. All you need to do is take a clean, sharp pair of secateurs and snip off the flowering stems once the flowers have finished. The stems can then be cut down in autumn or left in situ for wildlife until spring. Deadheading really is not essential for these plants, so whether or not you choose to do so is entirely up to you.
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