Growing
Yarrow Is Very Easy To Propagate Says Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly
IN THIS GUIDE 1) Growing From Seed 2) Taking Cuttings 3) Dividing Achilleas, commonly known as yarrows, are incredibly easy to grow and are pretty easy to propagate too. Depending on which type of yarrow you decide to grow, you may even find that the plants spread on their own through self-seeding. However, taking matters into your own hands will usually yield positive results and is something even novice gardeners should be able to do. There are three main ways to propagate yarrows: Growing from seed. Taking cuttings. Dividing mature plants. We’ll walk you through each of these methods below. Difficulty Easy Equipment Required Seeds and cuttings, pots or seed trays, potting mix, rooting hormone (not essential), a garden fork or trowel 1) Growing From Seed Yarrow can be grown from seed, sown either in autumn (indoors or under cover) or in spring, either in containers to be planted out later, or directly where they are to grow. Germination will usually take place within 2-3 weeks. Wherever the seeds are sown, keep the soil moist, but also ensure that it is not waterlogged and that the medium is draining freely. Excess water can increase the likelihood of dampness and other fungal issues. One thing to note, however, is that if you are growing one of the many cultivars available, many are hybrids and will not come true from seed. In other words, the plant which grows from the seed may not resemble the plant which it came from, so flower colour and other characteristics may not be retained. To create plants identical to their parent, this is the only method which you should avoid. 2) Taking Cuttings Achillea cuttings are best taken in early spring. Softwood cuttings should be taken by pulling away new shoots from the plant with a heel at the base. These cuttings should be placed into a moist yet free-draining potting mix with added sand for drainage. Place them around the edges of a small container. You can dip the ends of the shoots into rooting hormone to improve success rates, but this is not usually required. Leave the cuttings in a cool bright place out of direct sunlight and they should form their own roots within a few weeks. After this, they can be potted on into individual pots to grow on until they are planted out into the garden once well established. 3) Dividing If you have a mature Achillea in your garden, the best and easiest way to increase your plant stock is to divide the plant. The division is best undertaken in spring. “Whether grown from seed or bought as a plant,” says qualified Horticulturist Colin Skelly, “once you have the Achillea of your choice it is very easy to propagate more through dividing established plants.” “Towards the end of the summer, select a healthy plant and lift it with a garden spade or fork. “You will notice that the plant is actually a collection of plantlets that can be pulled apart from the parent plant. “Ensure that each plantlet removed has some root attached and then plant into a pot or another spot in the garden. Each division should have roots and some above-ground growth. Larger divisions (where the parent is simply divided in two, for example) can be planted into the growing positions in the garden straight away. Smaller divisions can be potted up and grown on until well established, and transplanted a little later into the garden. “Water well and then leave to establish – they should form healthy new plants for the following summer. “This is also a way to keep achilleas persisting in the garden as they can be short-lived when not divided.”
Learn more
Yarrow Is Fairly Low-Maintenance, But Cutting Back Before The Growing Season Can Help
IN THIS GUIDE Deadheading Yarrow How To Prune Yarrow Cutting Back Achillea, also known as yarrow, is one of the easiest perennials to grow and is a rewarding and highly useful addition to many gardens. Achillea does not really need to be pruned at all and is a very low-maintenance plant. However, you can if you wish: Deadhead the flowers through the summer to encourage more blooms to form. Cut back stems after the first flush of flowering to use the material. Cut back hard at the end of the growing season, or in spring. I’d recommend doing so in March here in the UK. Read on to learn more about each of these steps. Difficulty Easy Equipment Required Gloves, secateurs When To Prune March Deadheading Yarrow Yarrows bloom throughout the summer, and can continue to do so until September or even October in the right conditions. Deadheading the flowers which form in early summer can encourage a second flush of growth and further blooms that extend well into autumn. As each flowering umbel fades and begins to go to seed, simply take secateurs and snip it off halfway down the stem. This will avoid the plant from wasting energy on seed production where this is not required or desired and will keep plants looking neater. However, you may sometimes wish to leave some yarrow flowers to go to seed. It can sometimes be beneficial to allow the plant to self-seed – you can collect seeds to sow in autumn, or the following spring. Just note that not all cultivars will come true from seed, so it can pay not to be too zealous in deadheading. “Collecting seed or allowing achillea to self-seed can be an exciting way to originate unique seedlings as no two will be alike,” says Colin Skelly. “If there is one that you really like then you can increase it by division and have a plant that is a signature for your garden.” Remember that if you want the same characteristics as the parent plant then propagating by division is an easy way to do this. How To Prune Yarrow Achillea is cut back at different times depending on location, preference and need. Yarrow can be used as cut flowers as plant matter to maintain fertility in an organic garden. After the first flush of flowering, in the summer, yarrows can be cut back harder to the basal foliage (the leaves right at the base of the plant). The stems, fading flowers and all can be very useful to organic gardeners. The material that is cut off can be chopped and dropped as an organic mulch material, added to your composting system, or used to make an organic liquid plant feed. Cutting Back In colder climates, yarrow is often cut back hard in autumn, with the onset of winter, to within a few centimetres of the ground. But here in the UK, it is best to leave the foliage over the winter months before cutting back in early spring. Leave the foliage in place over winter as a habitat for wildlife, and also to offer a little more protection to the roots and crown of this clump-forming perennial. Then cut right back to the base just before new growth emerges the following year.
Learn more
These 15 Self-Seeding Yarrow Varieties Are A Dream For Organic Gardeners
IN THIS GUIDE 1) A. ageratifolia 2) A. filipendulina ‘Cloth of Gold’ 3) A. ‘Coronation Gold’ 4) A. × lewisii ‘King Edward’ 5) A. millefolium 6) A. ‘Credo’ 7) A. ‘Heidi’ 8) A. ‘Lachsschönheit’ 9) A. ‘Moonshine’ 10) A. ‘Paprika’ 11) A. ‘Petra’ 12) A. ‘Summerwine’ 13) A. ‘Terracotta’ 14) A. ‘The Beacon’ 15) A. ptarmica ‘The Pearl’ Also known as yarrows, Achilleas are commonly included in any eco-friendly, wildlife-friendly planting schemes. Yarrow is wonderful for organic gardeners, prized for its ability to attract pollinators and other beneficial insects to aid in pest control, and for its ability to dynamically accumulate nutrients from the soil. What’s more, it looks great too! There are a number of named cultivars of yarrow commonly grown in perennial beds and borders as an ornamental addition. Many of the varieties are cultivars of Achillea millefolium, common yarrow, though as you will discover below, there are a few other key species to consider. “Achillea is a very versatile genus of garden plants offering something for most styles and sizes of garden,” says Horticulturist Colin Skelly. “Cultivars of Achillea millefolium and Achillea filipendulina can be used in a traditional herbaceous border, in a cottage garden or naturalised with grasses in a prairie style. “The smaller species can be grown in rockeries, gravel gardens, pots or the front of a border.” So let’s take a look at some fantastic yarrow varieties that you could grow – all of which should be grown in full sun. 1) A. ageratifolia COMMON NAME(S): balkan yarrow HARDINESS RATING: H5 FLOWERS: White FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer This Achillea, also known as Balkan yarrow or Greek yarrow, is a smaller alpine-type perennial which makes small mounded clumps around 20cm high. The small solitary flowering heads are around 2.5cm wide, with soft yellow centres and white petals. H5 hardy, these can be a great choice for rock or gravel gardens or coastal locations. This is an RHS Award of Garden Merit plant. 2) A. filipendulina ‘Cloth of Gold’ COMMON NAME(S): yarrow ‘cloth of gold’ HARDINESS RATING: H7 FLOWERS: Yellow FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer / autumn A. filipendulina is an Asian species of yarrow. ‘Cloth of Gold’ is one of the cultivars of this species which has been awarded an RHS Award of Garden Merit. This cultivar grows to around 1-1.5m in height with a spread of 45cm and has vibrant yellow flowers. It can work very well in the middle or towards the back of a border. 3) A. ‘Coronation Gold’ COMMON NAME(S): yarrow ‘coronation gold’ HARDINESS RATING: H7 FLOWERS: Yellow FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer / autumn Growing to around 1m in height, this is another cultivar with an RHS Award of Garden Merit. It also has stunning bright yellow flowers. For this variety and other taller types, staking can be beneficial before flowering, though it is not usually essential. Like the above, it can work well towards the middle or back of an informal, wildlife-friendly border. 4) A. × lewisii ‘King Edward’ COMMON NAME(S): yarrow ‘King Edward’ HARDINESS RATING: H5 FLOWERS: Yellow and cream FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer This small hybrid type is a small and compact plant, which grows only to around 10cm in height. It bears clumps of yellow flowers, which fade to creamy hues as the season progresses. This plant also has an Award of Garden Merit and is great for a rock or gravel garden, a coastal location, or for use as a container plant. 5) A. millefolium COMMON NAME(S): common yarrow HARDINESS RATING: H7 FLOWERS: Cream and pink FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer Common yarrow, the species type, is native to the UK. It has small flowers in creamy whites or pale pink, born from June to August, and works very well in a wildlife-friendly and informal planting scheme. It is H7 hardy so will overwinter throughout the UK, even with the harshest of winters. It can self-seed readily. 6) A. ‘Credo’ COMMON NAME(S): yarrow ‘credo’ HARDINESS RATING: H7 FLOWERS: Cream and yellow FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer Though sometimes short-lived, this yarrow is another option to bring vibrant yellow hues to your garden. Another AGM plant, ‘Credo’ has all the benefits of the above, but offers a different colour of flowers from the species type. 7) A. ‘Heidi’ COMMON NAME(S): yarrow ‘Heidi’ HARDINESS RATING: H7 FLOWERS: Pink FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer / autumn If you love bright pink, then this could be a good yarrow to consider. ‘Heidi’ grows around 60cm tall, and its flowers are a purple-pink hue, which gradually fades to lighter pink as the season continues. Flowers are born all summer and often well into the autumn too. 8) A. ‘Lachsschönheit’ COMMON NAME(S): yarrow ‘Lachsschönheit’ HARDINESS RATING: H7 FLOWERS: Cream, orange and pink FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer ‘Lachsschönheit’ or ‘Salmon Beauty’ is a yarrow in the Galaxy series. As the name suggests, the flowers of this option are charming salmon pink, and gradually fade to a more creamish pink hue. They are born over the summer months. 9) A. ‘Moonshine’ COMMON NAME(S): yarrow ‘moonshine’ HARDINESS RATING: H7 FLOWERS: Yellow FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer / autumn ‘Moonshine’ is another cheery yarrow to consider, with bright yellow flowers. It grows to around 60cm in height and works well, like other cultivars of this species, in a wide range of settings where there is full sun and moist yet free-draining soil. 10) A. ‘Paprika’ COMMON NAME(S): yarrow ‘paprika’ HARDINESS RATING: H7 FLOWERS: Red FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer Another colourful cultivar to consider is ‘Paprika’ with its pinkish-red flowers and bright yellow centres. Around 60-80cm in height, this is a great option for the middle of a border, where it will flower throughout the summer months. 11) A. ‘Petra’ COMMON NAME(S): yarrow ‘Petra’ HARDINESS RATING: H7 FLOWERS: White and red FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer / autumn Another colourful variant is ‘Petra’, which has deeper red flowers, each one with a creamy white centre. Starting out as a rich-ruby hue, the colours do not tend to fade as significantly over the course of the season as other vibrant cultivars. 12) A. ‘Summerwine’ COMMON NAME(S): yarrow ‘summerwine’ HARDINESS RATING: H5 FLOWERS: White and red FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer ‘Summerwine’ is another AGM-awarded cultivar which has vibrant flowers. In this case, the flowers are a deep, velvety red wine hue. Like the others on this list, the colours gradually fade over the season, bringing more variation and interest to your planting scheme. 13) A. ‘Terracotta’ COMMON NAME(S): yarrow ‘terracotta’ HARDINESS RATING: H7 FLOWERS: Cream and yellow FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer / autumn Truly stunning and unusual, ‘Terracotta’ is a cultivar with stunning deep orange blooms. The burnished orange flowers fade to a somewhat more mellow orange hue as the season continues. The striking shades work very well with deep purple flowers, like salvias or nepetas. 14) A. ‘The Beacon’ COMMON NAME(S): yarrow ‘Fanal’ HARDINESS RATING: H7 FLOWERS: Red FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer ‘The Beacon’ is another vibrant Achillea cultivar with deep post-box red flowers and small yellow centres. This is also a great choice for mixed perennial borders which work well for wildlife and offers plenty of ornamental appeal. 15) A. ptarmica ‘The Pearl’ COMMON NAME(S): sneezewort ‘the pearl’ HARDINESS RATING: H7 FLOWERS: White FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer Last but not least, you could also consider this cultivar of A. ptarmica (the wild tansy), which has pretty white flowers with a double form. The white blooms look great when planted in generous drifts, and also make great cut flowers. The yarrows on this list are just some of the many enticing options to consider, but the options listed could be a great place to begin when trying to find the perfect yarrows for your garden.
Learn more
Gerberas Need To Be Deadheaded To Ensure Healthy Growth - Experts Share How
IN THIS GUIDE When To Deadhead 1) Clean Your Tools 2) Prune Stems 3) Pinch Or Trim Leaves 4) Feed With Liquid Fertiliser Other Ways To Enjoy Your Gerberas Gerberas are part of the daisy family and produce beautiful blooms, bursting with colour. Coming in single shades or multi-coloured, gerberas can be planted both indoors and outdoors and are a splendid addition to any home or garden. This plucky little plant can bloom from spring all the way through summer, with some varieties flowering up to the first frosts. They are also adored by bees and other essential pollinators. Like many members of the daisy family, gerberas need to be deadheaded to ensure healthy growth and to extend blooming periods. Here are the 4 easy steps you need to follow to do this: Rinse a pair of scissors or pruners. Prune the flower stems back. Pinch or trim older leaves. Feed your gerberas with a liquid fertiliser. These steps are explained in more detail below. Difficulty Easy Equipment Required Kitchen scissors or pruners When To Deadhead March-September (when flowers are withering) When To Deadhead When your gerbera’s flowers are starting to wilt, before the petals have fallen off, it’s time to deadhead them. “Gerberas are definitely one of those plants that benefit from deadheading,” says Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly. “Aside from encouraging further flowering, the dead stems really do detract from the bright fresh blooms.” This could be anytime during the blooming period between March and September. 1) Clean Your Tools We recommend doing this in a solution of 1 part bleach and 9 parts water. This will sterilise the tool and prevent diseased organisms from spreading to the gerbera whilst deadheading. 2) Prune Stems From the flowering head, follow the stem down to where it emerges from the foliage and make the cut. 3) Pinch Or Trim Leaves When leaves become tired and shabby-looking, you can pinch or trim them. This will keep your gerbera looking its best and will also encourage new foliage growth. 4) Feed With Liquid Fertiliser Blend up a half-strength, well-balanced liquid fertiliser and feed your gerberas every couple of weeks during spring and summer. This will encourage continued blooming. By repeating these steps when needed, you will extend the blooming cycle substantially and really get the most out of your gerberas. Other Ways To Enjoy Your Gerberas You can make absolutely glorious indoor arrangements with gerberas. When your plant is in full bloom, you can take a clean pair of kitchen scissors or shears and cut the stem near the base of the plant. Fill a broad-based vase with 2cm of water. This shallow water reserve helps to slow down stem decay, keeping your gerberas looking healthy and happy for longer. Place the trimmed stems in the vase, arrange them to your liking and enjoy!
Learn more
Water Exposure Could Cause Brown Spots On Gerbera Leaves Argues Colin Skelly
IN THIS GUIDE What Causes Brown Spots? Preventing Brown Spots Spot The Difference References Gerberas have been a firm favourite in British gardens for centuries and are frequently used in bouquets. In fact, they are so popular, it has been claimed that they are the fifth most-used cut flowers in the world.1 With short and long-stemmed varieties, they can be used in large ornamental displays or made into cute little posies. In addition to this, when planted, gerberas really do bring absolute joy to the garden, but they can be faced with a couple of issues. A common problem you will come up against with gerberas is brown spots. In this article, we will look at how to avoid brown spots on your leaves and petals – as well as how to deal with them if they appear. What Causes Brown Spots? The brown spots that can appear on gerberas are usually caused by Alternaria, which is a fungus that flourishes in humid environments.2 The leading cause of Alternaria is water splashing on the leaves during rainfall or watering, as Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly explains: “Too much water and splashing are the enemies of Gerbera growers in the UK. “Whilst it is possible to control watering, it is not possible to control the rain. “However, I have found placing pots under the eaves of the house or in the lee of a wall can help.” Preventing Brown Spots Brown spots on gerberas are unsightly and ruin the natural beauty of the plant, but never fear – we have some brilliant solutions to help you avoid brown spots and to keep your gerberas looking gorgeously glorious. There are lots of ways to avoid pesky brown spots on your gerberas, here are our top tips: When you water your gerberas, I recommend that you water thoroughly. Don’t over water. The soil should feel moist, not saturated. Make sure there is adequate drainage in the flowerbed or pot. Feed your gerberas frequently in spring and summer with a well-balanced liquid fertiliser. Pinch off old, dead leaves and discard them. This will ensure healthy new foliage growth. Clear fallen leaves away from the plant or they will encourage fungus to grow. Water at the base of the plant, taking care to avoid splashing the leaves. Do not use sprinklers or overhead watering. Wait for the soil to become dry before watering again. If you are planting multiple gerberas, make sure they are spaced evenly, giving them adequate space to grow and to allow for air circulation. Spot The Difference Yes, by following those easy steps you will really be able to spot the difference and avoid those nasty brown spots, instead keeping your gerberas healthy and happy – just like they keep us. References 1. Wholesale Gerbera Guide & Wedding Flower Guides UK. (n.d.). Triangle Nursery. Retrieved March 16, 2023, from https://www.trianglenursery.co.uk/flower-guides/gerbera-guide 2. Orton, T. G. (2020). Breeding for Disease and Insect Resistance. Elsevier EBooks, 345–382. https://doi.org/10.1016/b978-0-12-815396-3.00019-6
Learn more
Shasta Daisy Growing Tips: 'It Would Be Hard Not To Get A Very Pleasing Display Of Flowers'
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Common Varieties How To Grow Shasta Daisy Ongoing Plant Care Common Problems References Shasta daisies have long been a gardener’s favourite and for good reason. With a long flowering season, they will brighten up any border or container and attract a myriad of pollinators into the garden. Shasta daisies are easy to grow and care for and are perfect to use as a cut flower or as a filler in a flower bed. “If I’m asked for a recommendation for a perennial by someone who is new to gardening, I will often suggest a Shasta Daisy,” shares Colin Skelly, a Master Horticulturist. “It would be hard not to get a very pleasing display of flowers and invariably encourages further experimentation with other plants and combinations. It’s also great for multiple styles and sizes of gardens.” Overview Botanical Name Leucanthemum × superbum Common Name(s) Shasta daisy / Chrysanthemum superbum Plant Type Ornamental perennial Native Area North America Hardiness Rating H5 Foliage Deciduous Flowers White petals with yellow centres When To Plant March-June When To Prune November-February (deadhead throughout flowering season) Leucanthemum x superbum, or the Shasta daisy as they are more commonly known, are herbaceous clump-forming perennials and part of the Asteraceae family.1 Slightly confusingly, they were previously classed as a member of the Chrysanthemum genus and take their name Leucanthemum from the Greek words for ‘white’ and ‘flower’.2 Originally bred in California from other Leucanthemum species, it is named after Mount Shasta, as the white flowers are said to resemble its white snowy peak.3 Since then and through further breeding, Shasta daisies are now available in a range of different sizes, shapes and even colours. Shasta daisies are hardy and tough and are able to survive all but the very worst winters here in the UK, as they can withstand temperatures down to -15°C. Loved by pollinators, Shasta daisies provide a great source of nectar and pollen for bees and other insects when they are in flower during the summer months. Common Varieties Shasta daisies are often known for their white petals surrounding a yellow centre with either single or double flowers. Shasta daisies are widely available here in the UK from garden centres and online suppliers. Available in a range of sizes from 20cm tall dwarf varieties to some varieties nearly 1m in height, there is one to suit every garden. Some varieties include: L. × superbum ‘Real Galaxy’ This variety produces stunning semi-double flowers with white petals. Growing to a height of 60cm with a 45cm spread, it does equally well in a border or large container. L. × superbum ‘Madonna’ ‘Madonna’ is a dwarf variety growing to only 20cm tall and wide, making it perfect for a pot. With its classic white petals and yellow centres, it will flower from June until September. L. × superbum ‘Banana Cream’ This variety is a real show-stopper. Producing large 10cm diameter flowers with a yellow centre and pale lemony coloured petals, it can grow to up to 30cm tall with almost double the spread. L. × superbum ‘Wirral Supreme’ ‘Wirral Supreme’ is definitely one for the border as it grows to 90cm in height over time. With double flowers and a frilly centre, it is great when used as a cut flower. Having been awarded the RHS Award of Garden Merit, it has been shown to perform reliably well in the garden. L. x superbum ‘Real Dream’ ‘Real Dream’ is a relatively small variety growing to only 40cm high. Ideal for the front or middle of a border it produces an endless display of pale yellow flowers with darker yellow centres. How To Grow Shasta Daisy Where To Grow Shasta daisies are a very tolerant plant. Preferring full sun, a south or west-facing situation is ideal. However, they will also grow in partial shade, although possibly flowering a little less. They will cope with any moist, but well-drained soil whether in a border or in a pot or container. Shasta daisies do prefer to be out of the wind though, so do benefit from a bit of shelter. Shasta daisies are an easy plant to grow and care for. Most often bought as plants, they can also be grown from seed or division. Planting Whether to grow in a border or in a container the ideal time to plant a shasta daisy is in spring or autumn. If planting in a border, dig a hole twice as wide as the pot and at least as deep. Plant the shasta daisy at the same depth it was previously planted and backfill with soil, firming in as you go. If the soil is poor, it is worth adding some organic matter or compost at this stage to help feed the plant. Water well on planting and until the plant is established, after which watering can be reduced. When planting in a container the above guidance is the same, although it is recommended to use a potting soil mix to plant with. Growing From Seed Shasta daisies can be grown from seed, however, they will often not bloom until the following year, so a level of patience is required. To grow from seed, sow the seeds in February to April in a seed or module tray, using a seed sowing compost and covering lightly. Water gently or from below after sowing and keep moist and place on a windowsill or in an unheated greenhouse. Germination usually takes 2-4 weeks and once the seedlings have grown their first true leaves, they can be carefully pricked out and potted on. Keep undercover until the last frosts have passed and harden off before planting out. If sowing outdoors, wait until the last frost has passed, usually around May to June, and sow thinly in a well-prepared seedbed raked to a fine tilth. Keep watered and weed-free and once germinated, thin out to give the plants space to grow before moving them to their final position in early autumn. Ongoing Plant Care Pruning Once established, Shasta daisies need little care except for deadheading and cutting back. Once the flowers begin to fade, the blooms can be cut off to promote further flowering throughout the summer months. After the first frost, the plant can be cut back to 3-5cm from the soil level to overwinter. Feeding As a perennial, come spring new growth will appear, which is the perfect time to add a slow-release fertiliser and a layer of mulch, which will help suppress weeds and conserve moisture during the growing season. Supporting Some of the larger varieties such as ‘Wirral Supreme’ and ‘Real Galaxy’ can grow quite tall and will certainly benefit from supports of some kind to prevent them falling over. Whether homemade from bamboo canes or hazel sticks or if using metal supports, it is advisable to install these before the plant gets too tall, as it is far easier to do when the plants are still small. Dividing Shasta daisy plants can grow quite rapidly leading to large and sometimes congested clumps in only a few years. It is advisable to divide the plants every 3-5 years or as required to keep the plants blooming well and to avoid them becoming overcrowded. To divide lift the whole plant, ideally in spring, and cut away any dead wood. Split the remaining plant and roots into smaller sections and plant at a spacing of 30cm to allow them room to grow or pot up in containers. Companion Planting Shasta daisies are easy to accommodate in most gardens, but perhaps suit a cottage style or informal planting scheme best. Shasta daisies go well with many plants but perhaps look especially good when planted with perovskia, crocosmia and rudbeckia. They are also a great perennial for a cutting patch as they have such a long flowering season. Common Problems Shasta daisies are generally unaffected by pests and diseases although they, along with many other plants, can be susceptible to aphids and verticillium wilt. Aphids Aphids are sap-sucking bugs that are often attracted to Leucanthemum plants and infestations can lead to reduced growth and curled or distorted leaves. Usually visible to the naked eye, they tend to congregate on new growth and flower buds prior to opening. Check plants regularly from spring onwards and if found, present action can include squishing by hand where numbers are small and encouraging predatory ladybirds and hoverflies into the garden. For severe infestations, organic sprays may be used. Verticillium Wilt Verticillium wilt is a common soil fungal disease that can affect ornamentals, fruit and vegetables – including Shasta daisies. Symptoms can include the leaves yellowing and shrivelling up and the plant suddenly wilting in hot weather. Depending on the severity, the affected plants may recover when cooler weather arrives and with heavy watering. There is no chemical control available for verticillium wilt and the fungus can be spread through soil movement and contamination. Therefore, care must be taken if verticillium wilt is confirmed and any infected plants and their roots disposed of and soil not moved around. Once any infected plants have been removed, it is advisable to either replant with verticillium wilt-resistant plants or grass over the affected area for many years. References 1. Shasta Daisy. (n.d.). Retrieved March 23, 2023, from https://aggie-hort.tamu.edu/wildseed/shastadaisy.html 2. Leucanthemum × superbum “Snow Lady.” (n.d.). Missouri Botanical Garden. Retrieved March 23, 2023, from https://www.missouribotanicalgarden.org/PlantFinder/PlantFinderDetails.aspx?taxonid=244692&isprofile=0&cv 3. Daly, G. (2017, July 23). Shasta shines by the seaside. Independent. Retrieved March 23, 2023, from https://www.independent.ie/life/shasta-shines-by-the-seaside-35958048.html
Learn more
When Propagating Hardy Cyclamen, Dividing Tubers Is Usually The Best Method
IN THIS GUIDE When To Divide 1) Cut Back Any Dead Foliage 2) Lift The Plant 3) Divide The Tuber 4) Replant The Divisions Cyclamen is a popular plant and there are many different varieties to choose from. Some species are hardy and are grown outside in UK gardens, while others, known as Florist’s Cyclamen, are more tender and are typically grown as houseplants indoors. If you wish for more cyclamen plants, it is possible (though sometimes challenging) to propagate new plants from existing ones. Florist’s Cyclamen is usually more difficult for the home gardener to propagate than the hardier types and individual species will differ greatly from one another in how simple it is to do so. However, cyclamens can, with some patience, be propagated from seed, or they can be propagated by means of division of the tuber. Some hardy types will self-seed rather readily outdoors, but sowing the seeds of most cyclamens yourself can take some work. It is usually easier to attempt propagation by division. To propagate cyclamens by division: Cut back any dead foliage. Lift the plant from the soil or growing medium. With a clean knife, cut the tuber into pieces, each one with a point where foliage would grow from (like the eyes in a seed potato). Plant the sections of cyclamen tuber with the growing points just above soil level. Read on for a slightly more in-depth description of this process – When To Divide The best time to divide cyclamens very much depends on which variety you are growing. As a general rule, hardy cyclamens are divided in autumn, around September or October. The more tender types grown indoors are best divided after they enter their period of dormancy after the foliage dies back in spring. April is usually a good time to propagate these cyclamens by division. “If you have a hardy Cyclamen that has established, it will slowly increase into a clump through natural division or self-seeding,” adds Colin Skelly, a Horticultural Consultant. “You can speed up this process by dividing some of the plants and controlling where you want the clump to spread.” 1) Cut Back Any Dead Foliage First things first, cut back any dead foliage on the plant. This will allow you to see things more clearly and handle the plant. 2) Lift The Plant Next, lift the plant carefully from the ground, or from the container in which it is growing. Ease the plant gently from the pot or lift it from the soil. Knock off any excess dirt so that you can clearly see the tuber, which at the mature stage, will resemble a seed potato. 3) Divide The Tuber Take a clean, sharp knife, and divide this tuber into sections. There are no hard and fast rules about how many divisions you can make, but you should not go overboard. Dividing each one into just 2-3 pieces usually offers the best chance of success. Each division that you create should have a small protrusion which foliage would grow from. Look out for these spots, which work like the ‘eyes’ on a seed potato. It is from these spots that new growth should emerge. 4) Replant The Divisions Once you have divided the tuber of a mature cyclamen plant, each division, with its growing point, should be replanted or potted up. If placing in the ground in your garden, it is important to choose a free-draining location in partial shade with good, fertile soil. If growing in containers, be sure that they drain freely and are filled with a suitable loam-based, peat-free medium with added grit and leaf mould for the best results. While this process is fairly straightforward, unfortunately, the divisions will be particularly vulnerable to root rot at this stage. It is important to make sure that they are not in overly damp or waterlogged conditions. If the divisions are successful, they should grow into new plants to increase your cyclamen collection. Be sure to place them in an appropriate place for the type you are growing and make sure to care for them correctly.
Learn more
Looking To Transplant Your Cyclamen? Do It Just Before Their Dormancy Period
IN THIS GUIDE When To Transplant 1) Cut Back Dead Foliage 2) Lift The Plant 3) Divide The Tuber 4) Replant Both hardy and tender cyclamen can be relatively easy flowering plants to grow. Hardy types will remain in a garden year-round, in the ground or in containers. Tender types are typically grown as houseplants over the winter months and placed outdoors or in a cool spot during the summer while they are in their dormancy period. To transplant cyclamen: Cut back any dead foliage in the spring dormancy period. Dig under the plant and lift gently from the soil or growing medium. Divide the tubers (if you wish to do so). Replant or pot up the dormant plants as soon as possible. Difficulty Easy Equipment Required Trowel or spade Preferred Aspect Partial shade, bright but indirect light indoors When To Transplant You can transplant hardy cyclamens in Autumn between September-October after the leaves die back. Tender types should be lifted and transplanted in spring when the plants die back for their summer dormancy. These are generally the best times to transplant cyclamens, though the best time to do so will depend on which particular variety you are growing. 1) Cut Back Dead Foliage Transplantation is easiest when the plants enter their dormant phase. You will be able to tell when cyclamens are entering dormancy because the leaves will be dying back. Before you lift and transplant the plant, it is easier if you cut back all the dead foliage so that you can see and handle the plant more easily. 2) Lift The Plant Once you have decided to move cyclamen, simply dig down below the plant with a trowel or small spade and lift it from the soil, or remove it from its present pot if it is growing in a container. Lift the plant out of the soil and shake off or remove any clods or clumps of soil so that you reveal the tubers. 3) Divide The Tuber If you wish, you can divide the tuber to propagate your cyclamen. 4) Replant Once you have lifted a plant, it is important to replant it as soon as possible. Make sure you are clear about which type of cyclamen you are growing and where it will happily grow. Hardy cyclamens like a partially shaded spot, in fertile soil that is moist but free-draining and is rich in organic matter. They do well in dappled shade below trees or shrubs, especially on slopes. “I always make sure to mark where I have planted out dormant Cyclamen,” shares Colin Skelly, a Horticulturist with almost 15 years of experience in the industry. “This will ensure that I don’t forget and disturb the planting site at a later date. “I simply put a cane where I have planted as a reminder. I also label the planting site so that I have a record of the species or cultivar that has been planted.” They can also be grown in suitable containers. Tender cyclamens need a free-draining container, filled with a free-draining yet fertile medium. This should be placed indoors in bright, indirect sunlight, at temperatures between 10-15°C.
Learn more
Cyclamen Society Advises On Some Common Difficulties And Ways To Fix Them
IN THIS GUIDE 1) Cyclamen Leaves Turning Yellow 2) Cyclamen Not Flowering 3) Collapsed Cyclamen 4) Grey Fuzzy Appearance On Foliage 5) Cyclamen Mite References Cyclamens can be relatively easy and trouble-free plants to grow, especially outdoors hardy varieties. Trevor Wiltshire from The Cyclamen Society explains that “there are very few problems growing them outdoors provided the correct situation is provided for them, some species tolerate and like shade, some are happy in full sun, they do not tolerate very wet soils. “They prefer free-draining soils. Some like growing in raised beds or even in rammed earth stone walls (Cornish hedges).” However, as with any plant, whether you are growing hardy cyclamens outdoors, or tender types indoors, there are certain problems and issues you can encounter, especially if you haven’t been able to provide the conditions mentioned above. Some of the common problems and issues that you encounter include: Yellowing leaves Poor flowering or non-flowering Collapsed or wilted plants Grey fuzzy appearance on leaves or stems Cyclamen mite We’ll take a look at each of these problems and talk through the causes for each one below: 1) Cyclamen Leaves Turning Yellow If Cyclamen leaves are turning yellow, it is important to note that this is not necessarily a problem. As a part of their natural life cycle, cyclamens die back to the ground. When the cyclamens do this will depend on which type you are growing. Hardy types tend to die back in autumn, while tender types usually go dormant in spring. If cyclamen leaves turn yellow when they are not meant to be entering their dormant period, then this is usually due to: A problem with temperatures. Too much or too little water. This problem is more common with indoor-grown cyclamen than it is with types grown outdoors. Indoor cyclamen should be placed indoors from September, until they enter dormancy in spring, in a bright spot with indirect light, at temperatures between 10-15°C. Often, yellowing leaves are a sign that the cyclamen was grown in a location too warm for it indoors. Yellow leaves may also be a sign of under-watering, or of watering too much. Water only when the medium begins to dry out, and make sure excess water can drain away freely. 2) Cyclamen Not Flowering If cyclamen fails to flower, this is usually, with tender types, due to high temperatures, which can send the plant into dormancy too early. Make sure that you are not growing these indoors in too warm a position. Remember, tender cyclamen will stop flowering and enter a period of dormancy in spring. They should be placed into a cool spot and then brought back indoors when growth resumes in around September. Cyclamen growing outdoors may not flower because they are not yet mature enough to do so, or there may be an issue with too little sunlight or poor drainage. Remember, cyclamen need a partially shaded though not deeply shaded position, with a free-draining, yet moist and fertile soil or growing medium. 3) Collapsed Cyclamen If a Cyclamen completely droops or collapses, this is often due to overwatering, or waterlogged conditions. In very damp conditions, the crown can rot and turn mushy and brown. It is important to ensure good drainage, to water the soil and to try and avoid splashing water onto the stems and leaves. Cyclamen which are tender may also collapse due to exposure to cold. Remember that while there are hardier types, some cyclamen cannot withstand cold temperatures and frost. Sometimes, complete collapse can also be a sign of a pest infestation. Vine weevil larvae can eat the roots of these plants, as Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly explains: “Vine weevil larvae are the biggest problem I have with plants grown in pots and they have a particular liking for Cyclamen. “Typically, there are no symptoms until the plant suddenly collapses as the larvae munch through the tuber. “The larvae are most active from autumn into winter, just when Cyclamen come into flower. “Check when planting for signs of vine weevil in the roots or treat the pot with a vine weevil predating nematode in early autumn when the compost is still warm enough for them to be active.” 4) Grey Fuzzy Appearance On Foliage If you spot a grey fuzzy mould on your plants, this is a sign of fungal infection.1 One common fungal issue is Botrytis cinerea – also known as cyclamen grey mould.2 Remove any infected leaves or flowers as soon as you can to prevent their spread. And to avoid repeat problems with a fungal infection, ensure that there is adequate drainage, make sure you do not overwater, make sure excess water can drain away, and ideally water from below, so water is not splashed onto the foliage. 5) Cyclamen Mite Not a lot of plants have their own special type of mite. These guys are one of the worst pests cyclamens can get, and they cause damage to every part of the plant. Prevention includes using a fertiliser that’s not too high in nitrogen or potassium: these elements can create an environment conducive to the mites. Regular inspection of your plants is another way to nip problems in the bud; you can remove mites manually and destroy them. If you find yourself with a full infestation, it’s time to investigate predatory insects (which don’t damage the plant) or pesticide sprays. Again, this warrants further research in the case of an infestation. Most problems encountered with cyclamens are due to the plants being grown in the wrong locations or some problems with the environmental conditions which have been provided. So, make sure you understand the needs and growing requirements of the particular cyclamen that you have chosen to grow. If you do so, you should not encounter many problems. References 1. Botrytis cinerea. (n.d.). Cyclamen.com. Retrieved March 14, 2023, from https://www.cyclamen.com/en/professional/diseases/8/20 2. Control of grey mould (Botrytis cinerea) in container-grown ornamentals: heated glasshouse crops. (n.d.). Horticultural Development Council. Retrieved March 14, 2023, from https://projectblue.blob.core.windows.net/media/Default/Horticulture/Legacy/Ornamentals%20factsheets/n24y02.pdf
Learn more
