Growing
From Common Harebell To Milky Bellflower - Here's 15 Colourful Campanula
IN THIS GUIDE 1) C. portenschlagiana 2) C. rotundifolia 3) C. poscharskyana 4) C. lactiflora 5) C. pyramidalis 6) C. carpatica 7) C. glomerata 8) C. persicifolia 9) C. latifolia 10) C. sibirica 11) C. takesimana 12) C. garganica 13) C. medium 14) C. punctata 15) C. trachelium References Easy to grow and an absolute joy to behold, it’s no surprise that bellflowers, or campanulas, are a common sight in cottage gardens and border displays across the United Kingdom. Distributed across much of the Northern Hemisphere and often found in woodland areas, they’ll cope with most soil types and climates with ease, providing the terrain doesn’t become waterlogged. Despite the name, they come in many different shapes and colours, meaning there’s an option to suit all aesthetics. In fact, there are over 400 different types of campanulas to choose from.1 Listing all of them would be difficult, so I’ve whittled this list down to my favourite fifteen. All of the varieties on this list can be grown in full sun or partial shade and are unfussy with regard to exposed or sheltered conditions. 1) C. portenschlagiana COMMON NAME(S): Wall Bellflower / Adria Bellflower HARDINESS RATING: H5 FLOWERS: Purple FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer Holder of an Award of Garden Merit from the RHS, this universally popular specimen is better known as the Dalmatian bellflower. The moniker is nothing to do with dogs, however, but rather with the region of Croatia from where it originates.2 With mat-forming tendencies and evergreen lush foliage, C. portenschlagiana bursts into life each summer with cascading lavender blossoms. Ideal for ground coverage in sunny borders. 2) C. rotundifolia COMMON NAME(S): Common Harebell / Scottish Bluebell HARDINESS RATING: H7 FLOWERS: Blue FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer C. rotundifolia (colloquially known as the Scottish bluebell) is not precious about its growing conditions. It flourishes in particularly dry or nutrient-rich soils but can grow elsewhere too. Despite those humble beginnings, it’s still a bonnie sight to behold. Flowering from midsummer to early autumn, it produces dainty bell-shaped blossoms that are just as attractive to pollinators as people. 3) C. poscharskyana COMMON NAME(S): Trailing Bellflower HARDINESS RATING: H5 FLOWERS: Blue FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer / Autumn Variously known as the Serbian bellflower and the blue waterfall, this showstopper of a garden specimen produces an abundance of cascading lilac blossoms from spring onwards. Each flower is a perfect star, both in shape and stature. Nonetheless, it should be noted that the cultivar is considered invasive by some authorities. If left to its own devices, it might colonise your garden, so keep a watchful eye on its development. 4) C. lactiflora COMMON NAME(S): Milky Bellflower HARDINESS RATING: H7 FLOWERS: Blue and white FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer Nicknamed the milky bellflower, C. lactiflora produces attention-grabbing clusters of white star-shaped flowers that carry a purplish tinge to them. This variety is particularly lovely in full bloom, though it does have a tendency to turn brown on fading. As well as adding instant attraction to your garden, milky bellflowers are also practical little critters. That’s because they’re anathema to pests like rabbits and deer, so you can rest assured the surrounding plants won’t be nibbled upon.3 “Campanula lactiflora is one of my favourite bellflowers,” says Colin Skelly, a Horticulturist with nearly 15 years of experience in the industry. “I find it grows well in many garden contexts (except full shade) and has a very long flowering season, especially if deadheaded: it’s not quite bullet proof but not far off. “The only drawback is that, without deadheading, the faded flowers aren’t great to look at, but nobody’s perfect!” 5) C. pyramidalis COMMON NAME(S): Chimney Bellflower HARDINESS RATING: H4 FLOWERS: Blue FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer The intriguing architecture of C. pyramidalis is what sets it apart from its brethren. Tall spikes of tapered and jagged leaves produce strings of pale blue flowers in the height of summertime, making it the perfect choice for the rear of a garden border. However, it’s not one of the longer-lasting specimens available and is best viewed as a biennial rather than a perennial. 6) C. carpatica COMMON NAME(S): Tussock Bellflower HARDINESS RATING: H5 FLOWERS: Blue and white FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer One of the easiest alpine species of campanula to grow, the Carpathian harebell is robust and resilient enough to handle the UK climate with ease. It’s immediately identifiable by the large and open structure of its flower heads, which come in brilliant whites and soft pastel blues, among other colours. Pop a selection into the front of a border to add a splash of vibrancy among the foliage. 7) C. glomerata COMMON NAME(S): Clustered Bellflower HARDINESS RATING: H7 FLOWERS: Purple and blue FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer This devastatingly attractive specimen is commonly known as clustered bellflower and one glance should be enough to understand why. Its upward-facing bell-shaped flowerhead only lasts for a matter of weeks in late spring and early summer – but it’s well worth it. Capable of reaching just over 50cm in height, they’re absolutely at home in an informal cottage garden setting. 8) C. persicifolia COMMON NAME(S): Peach-leaved Bellflower / Fairy Bellflower HARDINESS RATING: H7 FLOWERS: Blue FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer Despite its common name of peach-leaved bellflower, no part of this plant is actually peach in colour. It remains extraordinarily popular all the same, likely due to its lengthy flowering season. As for the blossoms themselves, they’re cup-shaped and lilac-blue in appearance, with the plant capable of reaching up to 1m in height. C. persicifolia is unfussy about growing conditions but does not deal well with exposed sites and strong winds. 9) C. latifolia COMMON NAME(S): Giant Bellflower / Broad-Leaved Bellflower HARDINESS RATING: H7 FLOWERS: Purple and blue FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer With a maximum height of 1.2m, C. latifolia isn’t known as the ‘giant bellflower’ for nothing. Its upright structure bears long, oval leaves and nodding flowers whose petals can reach 5cm in length alone. With its blossoms most commonly appearing in light blue or violet, it’s best placed against similarly soft hues in shaded parts of the garden to accentuate its lovely attributes. 10) C. sibirica COMMON NAME(S): Siberian Bellflower HARDINESS RATING: H5 FLOWERS: Purple FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer We’ve already had Serbian bellflowers – now we have Siberian ones. Native to the upper enclaves of the mountainous regions of Siberia and northern Iran, C. sibirica makes light work of even the worst British winters.4 Of course, it’s summertime when it comes into its own, though. The rough, hairy texture of its foliage and stems is in sharp contrast to the delicacy and daintiness of its bell-shaped blossoms during the warmer months. 11) C. takesimana COMMON NAME(S): Korean Bellflower HARDINESS RATING: H7 FLOWERS: Cream, red, pink and white FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer With its sagging flowerheads and profoundly intense shades of pink, purple and white, Korean bellflowers are among the most striking of all campanulas. The backdrop of vibrant green foliage serves as a pleasing contrast, only enhancing its appeal. To top things off, C. takesimana comes with a delightful fragrance that’s bewitching to all passers-by. It can be vigorous in its self-seeding habits, so keep it in check to prevent it from taking over your garden. 12) C. garganica COMMON NAME(S): Adriatic Bellflower HARDINESS RATING: H5 FLOWERS: Blue FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer One of the few varieties on this list whose spread exceeds its height, the Adriatic bellflower forms cushions of bright green leaves in a distinctive heart shape. Come summertime, however, that foliage will be all but invisible as it is smothered in mountains of blue or lilac star-shaped blossoms. Although it reaches just 10cm in height, it will grow outwards quite quickly, so it’s best to give at least 25cm of space on either side of it to express itself fully. 13) C. medium COMMON NAME(S): Canterbury Bells HARDINESS RATING: H4 FLOWERS: Blue, pink and white FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer Known as Canterbury bells, these hefty flowers are more large than medium. The erect stalks are reddish-brown and hairy to the touch, while the short-stemmed, bell-shaped flowers which perch atop them are exquisite in both colour and shape. They’re not demanding about their growing conditions or the attention you pay to them after establishment, even self-seeding prodigiously. Nonetheless, they’re irresistible to butterflies and bees, so much so that some apiarists even use them to sweeten their honey products. 14) C. punctata COMMON NAME(S): Long-flowered Harebell / Spotted Bellflower HARDINESS RATING: H7 FLOWERS: Blue, pink and white FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer A native of China, Japan and Siberia, C. punctata’s Latin name can be accurately translated into English as the spotted bellflower.5 That’s down to the mottled appearance of the underside of its petals, but the outer façade is impressive enough in itself. The dramatically long tubular flower heads droop down with no little gravitas, which is only slightly leavened by the dusky pink hue of its blooms. Double-flowering and ruby-red varieties are also available from nurseries and breeders. 15) C. trachelium COMMON NAME(S): Nettle-leaved Bellflower / Blue Devil Bellflower HARDINESS RATING: H7 FLOWERS: Blue FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer C. trachelium boasts racemes of lavender-blue flowers reaching 3cm in length, making it incredibly easy on the eye. Although the leaves resemble those of the stinging nettle it doesn’t actually sting, so don’t let the common name put you off this beautiful campanula species. References 1. The BRAHMS Project, University of Oxford, Department of Plant Sciences. (n.d.-d). Campanula species. Oxford University Plants. Retrieved March 13, 2023, from https://herbaria.plants.ox.ac.uk/bol/plants400/Profiles/cd/Campanula 2. Campanula portenschlagiana: Adria Bellflower. (n.d.). NBN Atlas. Retrieved March 13, 2023, from https://species.nbnatlas.org/species/NHMSYS0000456767 3. Campanula lactiflora. (n.d.). PFAF. Retrieved March 13, 2023, from https://pfaf.org/user/Plant.aspx?LatinName=Campanula+lactiflora 4. Campanula sibirica. (n.d.). Kew Royal Botanic Gardens. Retrieved March 13, 2023, from https://powo.science.kew.org/taxon/urn:lsid:ipni.org:names:141096-1 5. Campanula punctata. (n.d.). PFAF. Retrieved March 13, 2023, from https://pfaf.org/user/Plant.aspx?LatinName=Campanula+punctata
Learn more
12 Show-Stopping Scabiosa Varieties (Both Species And Hybrids) In A Range Of Colours
IN THIS GUIDE Annual Scabiosa Perennial Scabiosa 1) S. triandra 2) S. graminifolia 3) S. farinosa 4) S. atropurpurea ‘Black Knight’ 5) S. caucasica ‘Miss Willmott’ 6) S. atropurpurea ‘Chile Black’ 7) S. caucasica ‘Fama White’ 8) S. purpurea ‘Ebony and Ivory Mixed’ 9) S. atropurpurea ‘Fire King’ 10) S. columbaria ‘Flutter Rose Pink’ 11) S. columbaria ‘Butterfly Blue’ 12) S. caucasica ‘Fama Deep Blue’ Almost all Scabiosa species and varieties are upright herbaceous plants. Before sharing some of our favourites, it’s worthwhile bearing in mind that there are some significant differences between perennial and annual Scabiosa types: Annual Scabiosa Scabiosa atropurpurea and its varieties are annuals though they often self-seed. Their flowers are a little smaller than those of S. caucasica but have a wider variety of colours and hues, including purples and crimson. As a general rule, S. atropurpurea varieties’ flowers’ colours range from purples to crimsons through near black. S. atropurpurea varieties in the main have a bushy habit. Perennial Scabiosa S. caucasica and its varieties are perennials. Their flowers come in fewer colours than S. atropurpurea varieties but they are up to 8cm across. S. caucasica and many of its varieties have a clumping or mat-forming habit. Perhaps counterintuitively, varieties of S. atropurpurea (which are annuals) reach heights of 85cm to 1m whereas varieties of S. caucasica (which are perennials) reach heights of 30-50cm. Underneath we present an even dozen Scabiosa varieties which include both species and hybrids, and a fantastic range of colours from white through near-black. 1) S. triandra A Southern European species whose leaves are bright green and linear, among the narrowest in Scabiosa species. The rounded bloom is a gentle shade of lilac and adding to its charms is its scent which is very attractive to bees and butterflies. Its longish flowering season runs from June through September. 2) S. graminifolia Also native to Southern Europe, and its linear leaves are so long and narrow that their shape coupled and the plant’s clumping habit combine to make this species resemble a patch of grass! The colour of the solitary and spaced-apart flowers, which exhibit the characteristic pincushion, is the palest and gentlest tone of lilac. 3) S. farinosa Native to the South-Western part of Africa. It is a long-lived herbacious perennial that often develops woody stems. Though a 60cm tall perennial, it has a mounding habit. Its pincushion flowers attract large numbers of butterflies and bees, and are of a pale, delicate tone of pink or purple, and are not infrequently virtually white. 4) S. atropurpurea ‘Black Knight’ Flowers from June through August, and its thrilling flower draws butterflies, bees, and birds. But it will also draw and hold human eyes by virtue of its deep maroon hue, verging on black in the centre on some blooms. The white ‘pins’ in the maroon ‘pincushion’ make for a stunning contrast. “S. atropurpurea ‘Black Knight’ is the Scabiosa that I grow most often,” shares Colin Skelly, a Master Horticulturist. “I find that it combines well with grasses and other perennials in naturalistic plantings. It really is great for pollinators and great for the human eye, creating little jewels of colour.” 5) S. caucasica ‘Miss Willmott’ Bears flowers that can have an irregular or ragged appearance. They are among the largest of all Scabiosa with many blooms between 7-8cm across. The shade varies from a Pearl White through Creamy White to Pure White. It is a recipient of the RHS’s Award of Garden Merit. 6) S. atropurpurea ‘Chile Black’ Has lovely bright bluish-green foliage and bears flowers on erect, long stalks. This variety produces profuse blooms, they have that classic pincushion shape, they have a wonderful scent, and as for the colour, it is truly striking as it ranges from maroon to a startling black. 7) S. caucasica ‘Fama White’ A clumping variety that bears flowers on long, upright stalks. These are double flowers that often present a pleasing, symmetrical appearance. Outliers in size, blooms can reach even 9cm. The flowers are pure white and often the stamens too are pure white (though sometimes they are cream-yellow) giving the flower a two-toned appearance. 8) S. purpurea ‘Ebony and Ivory Mixed’ Having presented two near-black and two white varieties, we may as well do both black and white in one shot. The flower has the dome-like shape shared by many S. purpurea varieties but among all flowerdom, this is surely one of the most remarkable varieties because one and the same plant produces maroon-black and white blooms side by side, delivering awesome visual impact. This one is a ‘talking point’ in the garden. 9) S. atropurpurea ‘Fire King’ A real visual delight. The foliage of this bushy plant is a deep lush green which is the perfect backdrop to the dramatic bloom. Exhibiting a perfect disk and ‘dome,’ the florets have somewhat thicker than usual lobes, and the hue is a rich shade of crimson to burgundy that is a stunning complement to the foliage. 10) S. columbaria ‘Flutter Rose Pink’ A dwarf variety that reaches only 35cm and is of a mounding, bushy habit. However, it’s all about the flowers with this variety. It has both a long flowering season, blooming all summer long, and a delightful propensity to bloom profusely. Topping it off are the flowers, which are more radially-shaped than most, and of a charming baby pink hue. 11) S. columbaria ‘Butterfly Blue’ Also quite a short variety with fern-like foliage and a mounding habit. It too boasts a very long flowering season and also blooms profusely. Its flowers attract even more butterflies and bees than other varieties. The small, 5cm flower is fuller with more densely packed florets than ‘Flutter Rose Pink’ and is of a lavender hue tending to blue. 12) S. caucasica ‘Fama Deep Blue’ Another ‘Fama’ variety with flowers that are similarly symmetrical, and similarly shaped and sized as ‘Fama White’ described above but with a couple of differences. This variety attracts butterflies and bees like there’s no tomorrow. As for the obvious difference, its colour is usually purple but sometimes an astonishing true blue colour of an azure tone.
Learn more
English Lavender Growers Share Their Secrets - 'The Most Important Factor Is Positioning'
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Varieties Planting Lavender English Lavender Care References English Lavender is a true stalwart of gardens here in the United Kingdom – and for good reason. With its wonderful fragrance, beautiful purple-blue flowers and ability to draw in pollinators galore, it is a great plant for any garden. Given the right conditions and some simple care, it is easy to grow and will last for years. “When I first started gardening, I loved lavender because it is an easy plant to grow in a window box and gives you a lot for your money,” shares Isabelle Palmer. We teamed up with four British lavender growers to help complement our growing advice: Nick & Lyndsay Butler – Owners of The Lavender Fields. Patrick Fairweather – MD of Fairweather’s Nursery. Julia Snowball – Head Gardener at Yorkshire Lavender. Charlie Byrd – Owner of Cotswold Lavender. “Lavender is such a beautiful plant that flowers for a long period, providing not only colour but also aroma and texture to a garden and the countryside,” says Nick. Overview Botanical Name Lavandula angustifolia Common Name(s) English Lavender / Common Lavender Plant Type Shrub Native Area Mediterranean Europe Hardiness Rating H5 Foliage Evergreen Flowers Purple or blue flowers When To Plant April – May Harvesting Months July – August When To Prune March – May or September – November English Lavender, or Lavandula angustifolia as it is botanically named, is part of the Lamiaceae family and not a herb as it is often thought of, but a shrub.1 “Lavender is a very special shrub with a long history of cultivation in this country,” says Julia. “It’s a plant which benefits us all with its calming scent and culinary properties, and it is a fantastic plant for the environment as the bees love it!” Rather confusingly, English lavender is not actually native to the UK but originates from the warmer Mediterranean.2 It does, however, cope rather well with our climate, especially in the south of the country. “Our soil is very stony so it was important to find a crop that suited our soil type,” says Charlie, when discussing why he started growing lavender on his farm. “Our farm is nearly 1,000 feet above sea level, which makes quite a difference to our climate. On average we are 2-3°C cooler than nearby towns because of the altitude. “Lavender has really thrived here and has been an interesting crop to grow.” A hardy and drought-tolerant shrub, it can tolerate temperatures down to -10to -15°C, unless grown in heavy soil prone to water-logging. Varieties The most well-known varieties of English lavender are L. angustifolia ‘Hidcote’ and L. angustifolia ‘Munsted’. Both widely grown in the UK, they are hardier than the English hybrids such as L. × intermedia and their French and Spanish counterparts L. stoechas – thus a more reliable choice for growing here, especially in the north of the country. Both ‘Munsted’ and ‘Hidcote’ are relatively compact varieties growing to an eventual height of roughly 50cm. The main difference between the two is that the slightly larger ‘Hidcote’ produces a darker purple flower compared to ‘Munsted’, which is lighter in colour and less compact. Other English lavender varieties are available and can include those which produce pink and even white flowers in summer. Planting Lavender Where To Plant “The most important care factor is positioning,” say the Butlers. “Lavender likes to be in full sun and will not thrive in the shade.” English lavender grows well when planted directly into the ground or in a pot or container, and thrives in sunlight, so a south or west-facing spot is ideal. Lavenders in general are rather fussy when it comes to the soil though. “Wet feet kill lavender quicker than anything, so good drainage is essential,” explains Charlie. “Soils here at the farm drain naturally, which is one of the reasons we chose to grow lavender. On clay soils, it is important to mix sand or grit into the soil to create an open soil structure.” With this in mind, they require a free-draining mix that is not too acidic and will seriously struggle to make it through the year if planted in soil with poor drainage. When preparing a site to plant English lavender, gravel or horticultural grit can be added to the bottom of the hole and potting mix to increase drainage levels, mimicking its Mediterranean origins as far as possible. In really wet areas, planting on a small mound or ridge can prove beneficial as well. How To Plant English lavenders are readily available during the spring and are most commonly sold in 1-3L pot sizes, ready to plant out. However, smaller lavender plug plants have become more widespread and are a cheaper way of buying larger quantities of plants, yet will need to be grown on first before planting out. English lavender can grow up to 0.5m in height with a 1m spread, so need to be spaced accordingly when planting out. English lavender can be a great plant for an informal low hedge in the garden. If planting for a hedge, it is advisable to space the plants 30-45cm apart depending on the variety. To give new plants the best chance of establishing, it is strongly recommended to plant them out in spring when the soil is warming up and they have the summer months to settle in and grow before the winter arrives. When planting, plant at the same depth as they were previously in their pots. “Once planted in the ground, lavender will need watering for the first few weeks,” explain the Butlers. “Once the roots have taken, you should not need to water the plant, even during the dry season.” English Lavender Care If the aspect and soil conditions are right for lavender, then they need little ongoing care. “Lavender is a Mediterranean plant, so try to give it conditions as close as possible to its natural home,” explains Julia. “The plants prefer a sunny location with well-drained, poor, sandy soil and they do not like to be overwatered.” Watering & Feeding Once established, lavender will need little watering, unless when grown in a pot or container, which will dry out more quickly. Lavender doesn’t tend to be a hungry plant as they like nutrient-poor soil, so feeding isn’t usually required, as Charlie shares: “It’s important not to overfeed lavender. “Don’t let them grow too big too quickly, as they will not be strong enough to support themselves when their foliage gets wet in the summer.” Overwintering Plants in containers or pots are more susceptible to hard frost due to their lack of insulation. Therefore, it is advisable to provide a bit of protection to any containerised plants if severe weather is forecast. Pots can either be brought in to overwinter under a porch or in an unheated greenhouse, which will not only provide some protection from low temperatures but the cold rains as well. Pruning English lavender tends to only need an annual prune, which can either be done in spring or autumn. However, if pruned in the autumn, they can look a bit neater over the winter months. “Pruning is ideally done at the end of the summer after the plant has finished flowering and before the cold weather sets in,” say the Butlers. Once flowered, the flower stalks and about 3cm of green growth can be taken off. “In early September as soon as flowering has finished, I use a sharp pair of shears or, in the case of extensive low hedging, a sharp hedge trimmer, to cut back the lavender as described,” shares Master Horticulturist Roy Nicol. “The plant then has time over the autumn to grow fresh foliage which looks good and protects it over winter.” Lavenders do not easily regrow from old wood, so some green growth must be left on for the plants to regrow well. Lavender plants tend to live for an average of 10-15 years, although some may live considerably longer. Over time, the plants can become leggy, especially if not pruned correctly, but thankfully, lavender is easy to propagate from cuttings, so replacements are not difficult to provide. Common Pests & Diseases English lavender tends to be fairly problem-free if given the right conditions. That being said, they can be rather susceptible to the rosemary beetle, which is unfortunately now widespread here in the UK.3 The rosemary beetle and their larvae feed on the foliage of rosemary plants, but also on thyme and lavender. The shiny green and purple beetles are easy to spot on the leaves, which they can reduce in length to virtually nothing. Yet the damage done is often small in comparison to the size of the plant and is of little aesthetic or health consequence. For this reason, is it encouraged to tolerate small numbers and pick them off by hand if necessary. However, pesticides are available if needs must, but can prove more effective when applied to the larvae rather than the adult beetles. References 1. Lavandula angustifolia. (n.d.). Missouri Botanical Garden. Retrieved March 21, 2023, from https://www.missouribotanicalgarden.org/PlantFinder/PlantFinderDetails.aspx?taxonid=281393&isprofile=1&gen=Lavandula 2. Lavandula angustifolia (English lavender). (n.d.). Native Plant Trust: Go Botany. Retrieved March 21, 2023, from https://gobotany.nativeplanttrust.org/species/lavandula/angustifolia/ 3. Rosemary beetle. (n.d.). The Wildlife Trusts. Retrieved March 21, 2023, from https://www.wildlifetrusts.org/wildlife-explorer/invertebrates/beetles/rosemary-beetle
Learn more
Verbenas Are Great At Tying Planting Together - Here Are 4 Plants To Grow With Them
IN THIS GUIDE What Is Companion Planting? 1) Marigolds 2) Nasturtiums 3) Zinnias 4) Ornamental Grasses References Gorgeous verbenas are a gardener’s joy. This plucky plant adds colour and interest to any garden and boasts 150 species that flower.1 Known for their long flowering period, there are varieties that bloom every month apart from in winter and are really easy to grow, making them perfect for even the most novice gardeners. Verbena with Echinacea and Rudbeckia These plants are vibrant and versatile and will thrive in beds and borders as well as in pots and containers. “Verbenas are great at tying planting together, particularly in looser naturalistic planting,” says Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly. “I use it a lot for this reason, but also because it is a great plant for pollinators, particularly in late summer.” Thanks to their multi-talented nature, these beauties can really set off other plants, so in this article, we’ll look at the best companion plants for your verbenas to really make your garden pop. What Is Companion Planting? As you can probably guess, companion planting is simply choosing a suitable plant to go beside a plant you already have in your garden – but the reasons to choose a particular plant can be varied. You may choose the companion plant just because it looks nice next to your existing plant. However, you can also pick plants that can repel unwanted pests or attract pollinators. 1) Marigolds Marigolds with their explosive yellow and orange blooms look utterly delightful next to verbena’s more dainty flowers. Verbenas thrive in full sunlight and marigolds are just the same, so these two are a match made in heaven. Marigolds also attract butterflies, bees and other essential pollinators – so this pair really is a win-win. 2) Nasturtiums Like verbenas, nasturtiums are also super versatile with bush varieties, species that cascade and others that climb. Nasturtiums also come in a wide range of colours so there are limitless combinations you can choose from when pairing these two plants together. Nasturtiums are also notoriously easy to grow, so this is a great option for beginner gardeners or if you’re just feeling lazy! 3) Zinnias Perky, peppy zinnias are just so much fun and can certainly keep up with the charm of verbenas and neither one upstages the other. Zinnias also flower from early spring to late autumn so both plants will be blooming in time with each other, filling your garden with whimsical colour. Both plants require the same amount of watering, making them the ideal couple. 4) Ornamental Grasses Ornamental grasses are a great option if you want to create a bit of texture and movement in your garden. Verbenas have an almost wildflower appearance, so pairing them with ornamental grasses can create a real country cottage vibe. There are loads of ornamental grasses to choose from and you will be able to find one to perfectly match any variety of verbena. Including ornamental grass in your garden is also a great way to do your bit for the environment. Ornamental grass helps provide shelter for small mammals and insects. As you can see, there are lots of options when it comes to companion plants for verbenas, whether you are trying to create the right colour scheme, keen to attract pollinators or just want to give your garden that extra wow factor – there is a suitable plant for every occasion. References 1. Verbena. (n.d.). Kew Plants of the World Online. Retrieved August 23rd, from https://powo.science.kew.org/taxon/urn:lsid:ipni.org:names:330551-2#children
Learn more
Smaller Lavatera Cultivars Can Make Perfect Container Plants - This Gardener Explains All
IN THIS GUIDE Containers For Lavatera Compost For Potted Lavatera Potting Up Tree Mallow Ongoing Potted Lavatera Care Lavatera is a genus of attractive flowering plants commonly grown in UK gardens. There are many different options to choose from if you are interested in growing a lavatera in your outside space. Of course, these are common and popular choices for beds and borders, in traditional cottage gardens, and for gardens in a range of other styles. But if you don’t have a lot of room, you might be wondering whether you can grow lavateras in pots. The good news is that lavateras can be grown in pots, and are actually quite a good choice for container growing. However, note that larger lavateras may be too large and sprawling for comfortable container cultivation. Smaller lavatera types can make a good choice for containers because they are reasonably drought tolerant and thrive in the free-draining conditions that can fairly easily be provided in a container garden. Smaller and more compact lavatera varieties such as ‘Barnsley Baby’ are particularly well suited to container growing. Containers For Lavatera When choosing a container for a lavatera, drainage is the most important factor. Lavateras require reasonably free-draining conditions, so it is important to choose a pot from which water can drain freely at the base. The size of the container that you choose will of course depend on the size of the lavatera you are growing. You might use smaller pots when growing lavateras from seed or when propagating the plant through cuttings, but it is important to remember that the plants should only stay in these pots for a while before they are transferred to larger ones or planted out into a garden. If you plan on keeping a lavatera in its container for longer, you will typically need to choose a container that is just a little larger than the current plant. If the container is too large for the specimen, waterlogged soil may be more likely to occur. Compost For Potted Lavatera The compost or potting mix you will choose when growing lavateras in pots will depend on whether you are growing them in pots temporarily, or planning to keep them in their containers longer term. When growing from seed or propagating from cuttings, free-draining seed compost or cutting compost is recommended. When growing lavateras in containers for the longer term, it is a good idea to choose a peat-free soil-based compost that can provide fertility and retain some moisture while also helping to ensure good drainage for the plant. Potting Up Tree Mallow When potting up a lavatera, it is important to plant them to the same depth they were at in their previous pot. Remember to make sure that you know how large the lavatera you have chosen will grow, and make sure it fits in the container with just a little space around each side to allow it to grow. Pot up your lavatera to a larger container when it seems congested and before roots block drainage holes at the base. How Many Can You Plant Per Pot? How many laveteras you plant per pot will of course depend on the size of the plant you are growing, and on the size of the pot. Smaller pots can contain a single plant, while you might plant multiples in a larger container or planter. “I always use the biggest pot I can for the size of the plant or use a smaller plant in combination with others in a larger pot,” shares Horticultural Consultant Colin Skelly. “This is because small pots dry out very quickly in warm weather, probably more than once a day on the hottest days.” You might also consider creating mixed container displays in larger containers which might contain lavatera and other plants which enjoy similar sunny and relatively free-draining conditions. Ongoing Potted Lavatera Care Place containers in full sun, as lavatera requires sunny and ideally sheltered conditions. Taller types of lavatera may require some support, and care should be taken to ensure containers do not tip or blow over. Once established, lavateras are reasonably tolerant of dry conditions, but you will still have to water lavateras growing in pots. Remember, plants in containers will dry out more quickly than those in the ground, however, take care not to overwater, and ensure good drainage. Waterlogging can become an issue for these plants. Lavateras do not have particularly high nutritional needs, but it can be a good idea to mulch around the top of containers when planting with good-quality compost or other organic mulch. You might also feed with a potassium-rich feed to encourage good flowering. These basic tips should help you grow lavateras successfully in pots.
Learn more
How You Prune Your Lavatera (Mallows) Will Depend On The Type You're Growing
IN THIS GUIDE Pruning Sub Shrubs Pruning Herbaceous Types Pruning Woody Shrub Varieties Malvas (until recently known as Lavateras) are, generally speaking, pretty easy plants to grow. This genus of plants, commonly also referred to as ‘Mallows’ can be annuals, biennials, herbaceous perennials or woody shrubs. All Malvas have beautiful flowers similar to Hollyhocks, great for attracting bees and other wildlife to your garden, but the gardening jobs can differ throughout the year depending on the specific type or types you have chosen to grow. Difficulty Easy Equipment Required Secateurs or gardening knife When To Prune Spring or autumn Learning how to prune the Malva you are growing is one key thing to consider. Although each variety will need slightly different care, here are the general guidelines for pruning Malvas: Tidy up sub-shrub cultivars (those with a woody base and tender stems) in autumn, then cut back hard in the spring. Cut back herbaceous lavateras to the base in winter. Prune lavatera shrubs with a permanent woody framework in spring. Deadhead in summer to encourage new growth and flowers. Pruning Sub Shrubs Sub-shrub type Malva, including M. cachemiriana and M. x clementii, can be tidied up a little with a light prune in autumn if desired. However, the main pruning is best left until the spring. In spring, you can cut back hard to the new shoots that emerge from the base of the plant. Pruning Herbaceous Types The faded and dead foliage of herbaceous types of Malvas can be cut down to the base in winter. If you prefer, you can cut off the soft foliage at the beginning of winter to tidy things up in your garden. However, in a wildlife-friendly space, it is best to leave the prune until the end of winter or very early spring, since the dead foliage can provide good shelter and habitat for wildlife, especially during the coldest months. Pruning Woody Shrub Varieties If you are dealing with shrub Malvas with a permanent woody framework, usually only minimal pruning will be required. However, you should also aim to prune these species in the spring, and can take softwood cuttings at the same time. Your goal should be to maintain a woody framework with an attractive shape and form – and to encourage the fresh growth on which the flowers form. If in doubt about which type of Malva is growing in your garden, deadheading the plant through the summer to encourage more flowers is typically a good idea, and pruning in early spring to encourage flowers on the growth of the new season is also advisable for many types.
Learn more
Achieve A Charming Cottage Garden Aesthetic With These 14 Tree Mallows
IN THIS GUIDE 1) M. arborea 2) M. x clementii ‘Barnsley Baby’ 3) M. x clementii ‘Bredon Springs’ 4) M. x clementii ‘Burgundy Wine’ 5) M. x clementii ‘Candy Floss’ 6) M. x clementii ‘Lavender Lady’ 7) M. x clementii ‘Mary Hope’ 8) M. x clementii ‘Rosea’ 9) L. maritima 10) M. thuringiaca 11) M. trimestris ‘Beauty Series’ 12) M. trimestris ‘Mont Blanc’ 13) M. trimestris ‘Silver Cup’ 14) M. trimestris ‘Twins Hot Pink’ Malvas (until recently known as Lavateras) are popular cottage garden plants that can work well in many different garden schemes, but choosing a variety means wading through a whole raft of different options. This genus contains numerous different plants, which can be annuals, biennials, herbaceous perennials or shrubby plants. When choosing which Malva varieties to grow, I would argue there are a number of different things to think about. You should consider not only the colour of the blooms, but also the size to which the plants will eventually grow, their growth habit and form – and how hardy they will be in your particular area of the UK. In my area of Northern Scotland, I would only ever grow herbaceous perennial or shrubby types that are hardy to at least H5 (tolerant to -10°C to -15°C). Here are fourteen of my favourite varieties – remember every variety in this list must be grown in full sun: 1) M. arborea COMMON NAME(S): Tree Mallow HARDINESS RATING: H4 FLOWERS: Pink FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer This tree mallow is a biennial or short-lived perennial with a bushy habit. It will typically grow to around 2m in height and 1-2m in spread. It has semi-evergreen foliage, and flowers in pink to deep pink shades, with darker pink veining appearing closer towards the throat. The blooms appear all summer and are around 4cm across. This is not a native but has naturalised in some coastal areas of the UK. 2) M. x clementii ‘Barnsley Baby’ COMMON NAME(S): Tree Mallow ‘Barnsley Baby’ HARDINESS RATING: H4 FLOWERS: Pink FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer This Malva is a particularly popular variety, which can work equally well in pots or in the ground. It is more compact than many other lavateras, growing to around 70cm tall, with a spread of up to 60cm. The flowers are pale pink with darker pink veining and are borne throughout the summer. 3) M. x clementii ‘Bredon Springs’ COMMON NAME(S): Tree Mallow ‘Bredon Springs’ HARDINESS RATING: H5 FLOWERS: Pink and purple FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer This tree mallow is a vigorous semi-evergreen shrub type lavatera which grows to around 2m tall. It has greyish-green leaves and funnel-shaped flowers which are 5-7cm across and have a lovely pink hue. The flowers bloom throughout the summer months. This variety has been awarded the RHS Award of Garden Merit. 4) M. x clementii ‘Burgundy Wine’ COMMON NAME(S): Tree Mallow ‘Burgundy Wine’ HARDINESS RATING: H5 FLOWERS: Pink FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer This is another Malva with an Award of Garden Merit from the RHS. It grows to around 2m and has deep pink flowers in the summer months borne above greyish green leaves. The pink flowers are streaked with darker veins. H5 hardy. 5) M. x clementii ‘Candy Floss’ COMMON NAME(S): Tree Mallow ‘Candy Floss’ HARDINESS RATING: H5 FLOWERS: Pink FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer With a height and spread of around 1.5- 2.5m, this is another attractive Malva to consider. It is also semi-evergreen and has grey-green leaves and pink flowers 5-7cm across are borne in summer. However, the flowers of this cultivar are a lighter, pale pink. This Malva holds the Award of Garden Merit from the RHS. 6) M. x clementii ‘Lavender Lady’ COMMON NAME(S): Tree Mallow ‘Lavender Lady’ HARDINESS RATING: H4 FLOWERS: Purple FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer A tall and rather striking tree mallow, this variety can grow up to around 1.8m tall. The flowers, as the name suggests, are a pale pink verging to a lavender hue. They are streaked with deeper purplish veins and, again, are borne throughout the summer. H4 hardy. 7) M. x clementii ‘Mary Hope’ COMMON NAME(S): Tree Mallow ‘Mary Hope’ HARDINESS RATING: H4 FLOWERS: Pink and white FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer Growing to around 1-1.5m tall, this lavatera is another popular and award-winning option, holding the Award of Garden Merit from the RHS. It has white and pale pink flowers with darker pink veining, which are saucer-shaped and borne in profusion through the summer months. 8) M. x clementii ‘Rosea’ COMMON NAME(S): Tree Mallow ‘Rosea’ HARDINESS RATING: H5 FLOWERS: Pink FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer Though often short-lived, this lavatera is enchanting, with its light pink flowers 8cm across that bloom in summer. It is a fairly vigorous option, which can grow to between 1.5-2.5m in height and spread within 2-5 years. It is H5 hardy and holds the Award of Garden Merit from the RHS. 9) L. maritima COMMON NAME(S): Tree Mallow HARDINESS RATING: H3 FLOWERS: Pink and purple FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer / Autumn Lavatera maritima is another type of tree mallow to consider. It grows to between 1-1.5m in height, with a spread of up to 1m or so. The flowers are beautiful pink or lilac shades, around 7cm across, with purple veining and deeper purple colouration towards the centre. However, note that this is a slightly less hardy option with a hardiness rating of H3 and is particularly suited to coastal areas without hard frost where it withstands salty sea breezes. 10) M. thuringiaca COMMON NAME(S): Tree Lavatera HARDINESS RATING: H5 FLOWERS: Pink and purple FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer / Autumn Tree lavatera, as it is sometimes also called, is a large upright herbaceous perennial. It has downy, grey-green foliage and funnel-shaped pinkish-purple flowers up to 8cm across that appear in the summer months. It can grow to around 1.8m in height and is H5 hardy. 11) M. trimestris ‘Beauty Series’ COMMON NAME(S): Tree Mallow Beauty Series HARDINESS RATING: H3 FLOWERS: Pink and white FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer Among the many M. trimestris that you may consider, those of the ‘Beauty Series’ stand out. This series offers a range of compact, upright options around 60cm tall, great for containers as well as growing in the ground. There is a range of options colour-wise within this range, with flowers in shades of pink and white, often with darker veining. H3 hardy and holds the Award of Garden Merit from the RHS 12) M. trimestris ‘Mont Blanc’ COMMON NAME(S): Tree Mallow ‘Mont Blanc’ HARDINESS RATING: H3 FLOWERS: White FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer / Autumn These large and bushy plants are superb lavatera, highly regarded for their huge, white, trumpet-shaped blooms that are beloved by bees. These plants tend to grow to around 1m tall, with a spread of around 45cm. They work well in the middle of a south or west-facing sheltered border and their pure white flowers really stand out and look wonderful in many garden schemes. 13) M. trimestris ‘Silver Cup’ COMMON NAME(S): Tree Mallow ‘Silver Cup’ HARDINESS RATING: H3 FLOWERS: Pink FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer Another attractive tree mallow, L. trimestris ‘Silver Cup’ has light pink flowers deeply veined with reddish-purple, a hue which becomes more prominent towards the centre of the blooms. These flowers are 7-10cm across, and the plants grow to around 70cm tall. This cultivar has an RHS AGM and is H3 hardy. 14) M. trimestris ‘Twins Hot Pink’ COMMON NAME(S): Tree Mallow ‘Twins Hot Pink’ HARDINESS RATING: H3 FLOWERS: Pink FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer This compact Malva cultivar has a height of around 50cm with a similar spread. It has pretty hot pink flowers with a satin sheen and has been specially bred for good disease resistance. It works just as well in containers as it does in the ground at the front of beds or borders. These are just some of the excellent Malvas on offer that you could consider choosing to grow in your garden.
Learn more
Lavatera Are Susceptible To Fungal Issues - Overcoming 4 Common Problems
IN THIS GUIDE 1) Lavatera Rust 2) Stem Rot 3) Soil-Borne Fungal Diseases 4) Insect Pests Lavateras are generally healthy and trouble-free plants to grow in your garden. However, many types can be prone to a number of fungal issues, including: Rust Stem rot Soil-Borne fungal diseases Certain pests can also be attracted to Lavatera, though this is admittedly less common. Keep reading to find out how these issues could affect your plants and also what you can do about them. 1) Lavatera Rust Rust is a problem to which many plants within the Malvaceae plant family can be susceptible. Rusts are a series of common fungal diseases which can infect a wide range of different plants. This is fortunately not usually a major issue. Rust can sometimes affect the vigour of a plant and can look unsightly, but they rarely kill the plant. Lavatera rust manifests as pustules on the leaves and other parts of the plant. You will mainly see this problem later in the summer, or in autumn. Often, the problem can be nipped in the bud by carefully removing and disposing of any infected leaves as soon as they are seen. So, remain vigilant and you can often prevent the issue from spreading too far! However, if the rust is more widespread, removing too much foliage can do more harm than good. In general, if rust is widespread on your lavateras, you should simply do all you can to make sure that they are as happy and healthy as possible. Make sure there is enough water, though not too much, and adequate fertility, but take care not to use too much nitrogen fertiliser and always garden organically. 2) Stem Rot One other problem that can occasionally occur when growing lavateras is stem rot. Stem rot can be caused by waterlogged soil or by a fungal infection that is often a result of waterlogged conditions. Lavateras like free-draining conditions and can tolerate drier sites than many other plants. They can be grown in heavier, clay soils but they will tend not to live as long and this problem can be more common since soils will tend towards sogginess in the winter months. “If soil conditions aren’t right but you really want to grow a particular plant, grow it in a pot or container,” shares Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly. “That way you can create the right moisture, drainage and nutrient levels rather than trying to coax a plant to thrive in conditions it will not like.” Ensuring adequate drainage in planting sites or in containers will help you to avoid encountering issues such as stem rot with a lavatera plant. 3) Soil-Borne Fungal Diseases As mentioned above, stem rot can be caused by fungal diseases that are more likely in wet conditions and waterlogged soil. Occasionally, other soil-borne fungal diseases that affect plant roots and stems can also occur in lavatera. These might include wilts, for example. Ensuring that the drainage is good wherever you are growing lavateras, whilst also remaining vigilant to any issues, can reduce the chances of losing plants due to fungal issues. If you use organic mulch, this can also help to prevent fungal spores from splashing up from the soil onto the leaves and above-ground portions of the plants. 4) Insect Pests Aphids These insects suck from the plant’s juices and affect its appearance (rather than its structure). In this sense, the damage is more cosmetic. It’s possible to get rid of them using a water hose, gardening oil or insecticidal soap if there’s a lot of them. Spider Mites Resembling little black dots, two-spotted spider mites sit on the plant’s foliage and can usually only be spotted for sure by using a magnifying glass. That way you can tell if the dots are stagnant (so part of the leaf) or moving (a certain spider). These are dangerous to Lavateras because they suck plant juices from the foliage and young stems. The result is that the leaves turn yellow and deformed. A garden hose sprayed directly onto the flowers and leaves (and underside of the leaves) is a great way to get rid of these tiny spiders. You can carry this out for several mornings in a row and then every few days. If there are lots of the little blighters then try spraying the leaves with insecticide soap or, in the event there are just too many spider mites, then consider employing a miticide formulation. Most of the issues that are likely to be encountered when growing lavateras are due to some problem with the environmental conditions in which they are grown – most commonly due to poor or inadequate drainage. So to keep your lavateras in good health, placing them in the right location is the first and most important thing.
Learn more
Gerbera Plants In Pots: 'I Find I Need To Control Their Position Quite Precisely'
IN THIS GUIDE Choosing A Container Where To Grow Choosing A Potting Mix How To Plant Gerberas Potted Gerbera Care While gerberas appear to be just one flower, they are in fact made up of hundreds of little flowers all clustered together, making them a unique little plant. While many gardeners choose to grow their gerberas in flower beds, if you don’t have the space or want to brighten up an urban courtyard, porch or decking, planting them in containers or pots is the way to go. “I grow Gerberas in pots because I find I need to control their position quite precisely and move them inside if it becomes wet for prolonged periods,” shares Colin Skelly, a Horticultural Consultant. “I can also change the location as the year progresses to ensure maximum sunlight.” Choosing A Container Depending on the species, gerbera daisies usually grow between 15-45cm, so to grow a single plant you will want to choose a pot at least 15cm deep and wide to provide them with adequate room to grow. Gerberas also require well-drained soil, otherwise they will be in danger of developing root rot, crown rot and powdery mildew. This means you will need to choose a container with drainage holes at the bottom. Where To Grow Gerberas thrive in sunlight, so you must choose a sunny spot for them. If you are keeping them indoors, choose a south or west-facing windowsill. If this isn’t an option, in dark and gloomy rooms, artificial light will give them the boost they need to survive. If you are keeping your gerberas outside, be sure to place them somewhere that will provide shelter from strong winds. Choosing A Potting Mix Light potting mix is best for gerberas and should be free from contamination. Including sharp sand will aid with the drainage as it will create channels for excess water to drain through. You will also want to mix in organic matter such as garden compost or peat-free multi-purpose compost. How To Plant Gerberas You can find ready-to-plant gerberas in garden centres. Planting gerberas in containers is super easy, just follow these simple steps and you can’t go wrong. Fill the container or pot with potting mix. Dig a hole big enough for the root ball and place the plant in the hole, making sure the crown lies just above soil level. Cover the base with more potting mix and water until the soil is moist, avoiding saturating the soil. Potted Gerbera Care You do not need to water gerberas too frequently, just water them when the topsoil is a little dry, taking care not to splash the leaves. To encourage healthy blooming periods, you can feed your gerberas every 2-3 weeks with a well-balanced fertiliser. Once the flowers have died, it’s important to deadhead them. That should be everything you need to know about growing gerberas in containers or pots. We hope you found this article useful and that you feel ready to get cracking and pot up your plants.
Learn more
