Growing
Preparing Peonies For Winter? 'Take Care Of One Key Job' Says Kate Blacker
IN THIS GUIDE Preparing Herbaceous & Intersectional Peonies Preparing Tree Peonies Protecting From Late Frosts Peonies are perennials which can be a great choice for many UK gardens. They come in a wide range of flower colours and can vary quite a lot in other things, like size and foliage, too. Even though peonies do require care, when it comes to how to look after peonies in the winter, you will find that they are relatively undemanding. Although peonies can differ in their hardiness, almost all are fully capable of making it through the winter months in our climate entirely unscathed. They usually die back over winter, entering full dormancy, before they spring back into full life in the spring. Read on to learn a little more about getting your peonies ready for winter and protecting emerging foliage and flower buds from late frosts. Preparing Herbaceous & Intersectional Peonies In order to keep herbaceous and intersectional peonies in good health, it is important to take care of one key job before winter well and truly arrives. “In the autumn, we advise taking away any of the dead stems, as this is where botrytis can overwinter and cause damage to the new spring growth,” explains Kate Blacker, a peony grower and owner of Little Budds Peony Farm. These peonies should be pruned back to the ground as soon as the foliage dies back in autumn. As Kate says, this is a good idea because the dead foliage can harbour fungi and other micro-organisms which can increase the chances of disease taking hold the following year. “If botrytis has been a problem, try a thick mulch layer of woodchips,” shares Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly. “This has the effect of reducing the splashback from soil which helps to spread fungal spores. It is also great for moisture retention and the slow breakdown of organic matter and nutrients.” Peony wilt is another problem which can occur if you do not chop back and remove all the dead foliage and dispose of it carefully before winter arrives. Preparing Tree Peonies Tree peonies typically do not need much pruning at all. These shrubs should, however, be checked over in winter for dead or damaged branches and these should be cut back to a healthy bud. Some tree peonies have vigorous, upright stems. To control the size of these once they are mature, it can be a good idea to consider removing some of the oldest stems at ground level in the autumn. Protecting From Late Frosts While most peonies are fully hardy when dormant over the winter months, some tree peonies may have tender young growth of leaves and buds in spring which can be damaged by late frosts. If a late frost threatens, you may protect this new growth with a covering of horticultural fleece.
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Support Your Peonies To Prevent Breakage To The Stems And Damage In Winds
IN THIS GUIDE Do Peonies Need Support? Support Options To Consider 1) Staking 2) Plant Support Hoops 3) Fluted Cage Peony Supports Peonies come in a range of different sizes and colours. Many have tall stems and large flower heads, so you may be wondering whether or not you need to install supports for the peonies you have chosen. Do Peonies Need Support? Many peonies will benefit from some kind of support, to prevent breakage to the stems and damage in winds or heavy rains. Herbaceous peonies usually require some kind of support, while intersectional and shrub-like tree peonies can often manage without it. Supports may not always be essential, and you may be able to get away without them if you are growing shorter cultivars or are growing them in a particularly sheltered spot. However, using supports of some kind for herbaceous peonies can potentially help you avoid disappointment later in the growing season, and prolong the duration for which you can enjoy the beautiful peony blooms. Support Options To Consider There are plenty of different options when it comes to choosing support for your peonies. Remember, you do not necessarily have to rush out and buy something new for this gardening job. The most sustainable and eco-friendly solutions are those using natural or reclaimed materials, which you may already have lying around. Below are some of the support types which can work well for peonies in many gardens. 1) Staking The traditional way to support peonies is simply to use a stake to support each stem. Stakes might be made from a range of different materials, from bamboo to natural branches from your garden, to reclaimed lengths of wood, metal or other materials. The problem with staking is that you may need rather a lot of them to support all the stems in larger clumps, or where a large number of peonies are grown. You might also consider creating rings or lines of stakes around a clump, or several peony clumps, with natural twine or other strings between them. 2) Plant Support Hoops Another way to support peonies is with plant support hoops, which completely encircle a peony clump and provide it with some support. Grid-type hoop supports can be better than open hoops because they provide support not just for the whole clump, but for individual stems. You can make your own hoop supports from reclaimed materials such as old fencing, or purchase one of the many more decorative and attractive options on the market. 3) Fluted Cage Peony Supports One popular type of encircling support structure for peonies are cage supports which are not cylindrical in shape, but taper from the base out to a wider circumference at the top. These fluted supports allow peony clumps to develop and sit more naturally, catering to their growth and form. These can look very attractive when placed around peonies in mixed beds and borders in a cottage garden or other similar styles of space. “The key with plant supports is to ensure that they do not distract from the flowers themselves,” shares Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly. “When first installed, they will be noticeable and if they are attractive, all the better, but ideally the plant should grow into the structure and be barely noticeable by flowering time. “Natural materials like stakes and string or materials like corten steel tend are my go-to materials for unobtrusive but effective supports.” With some imagination and ingenuity, you can find plenty of solutions to protect your peonies which not only stop them from falling over but also look great in your garden.
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Cut Back Peonies At Around 4 Inches To Prevent Botrytis, Says Expert Koen Hurtekant
IN THIS GUIDE Pruning Herbaceous & Intersectional Peonies 1) Wait For Foliage To Die Back 2) Cut Off Stems And Dead Foliage 3) Get Rid of All Plant Debris Pruning Tree Peonies Peonies are varied and popular garden plants which can really add a lot of interest and drama to your garden. However, to make the most of these plants, you need to care for them correctly. With herbaceous and intersectional peonies, it is a good idea to remove all stems and foliage to ground level as soon as the foliage has died back in the autumn. This can reduce the chances of peony wilt disease and help to ensure that your peony can grow back strongly the following spring. The process of pruning peonies of these types is very simple: Wait for the foliage to die back in autumn. Cut off all the stems and dead foliage at ground level. Get rid of all plant debris, removing it from the site. We discuss this in more detail in the rest of the article. Difficulty Easy Equipment Required Secateurs or pruning shears When To Prune October-November Pruning Herbaceous & Intersectional Peonies Pruning of these peonies takes place in the autumn after any bud removal and deadheading have taken place throughout the season. It is usually best to wait until after the first few touches of frost when the foliage is dying back naturally. However, you may sometimes cut back earlier if your plant shows signs of disease. 1) Wait For Foliage To Die Back It is usually important to wait for the foliage on your peony to die back naturally before you cut it back to the ground. If you cut it back too early, the plant will not have been able to store enough energy through photosynthesis to grow and flower well the following year. 2) Cut Off Stems And Dead Foliage “In autumn, cut the foliage from your peonies at around 4 inches above the soil level,” says Koen Hurtekart, founder of The Peony Society. “Research has found that this results in lower numbers of botrytis infections amongst peony plants.” To do this, take a clean, sharp pair of secateurs or some gardening shears and cut off all the dead/dying plant material as close to the ground as possible. This is a good idea because the material may harbour invisible fungal spores and diseases which could affect the plant the following year. “Mulching around the plant after cutting back can help to reduce the spread of fungal spores from rain splash,” shares Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly. “Wood chip is particularly effective for this but be careful not to bury the crown.” “Never pull the old stems out, as you might also pull out the new buds which grow alongside them,” warns Koen. 3) Get Rid of All Plant Debris Even where the material does not look infected, it is best to be assiduous in removing all the dead material from the area around the plant to reduce the risk of any diseases like peony wilt taking hold. It is best not to compost this material as invisible fungal spores might spread through your composting system to other parts of your garden. “Don’t hoe around the peony as you will destroy the feeder roots,” explains Kate Blacker, the owner of Little Budds Peony Farm. Pruning Tree Peonies Note that these pruning guidelines apply to herbaceous and intersectional peony types. Tree peonies have different care guidelines. With tree peonies, you will typically only need to do minor pruning – deadheading blooms and removing any dead, damaged or diseased branches.
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Propagate Larkspurs From Basal Cuttings When You See Fresh Shoots (In Early Spring)
IN THIS GUIDE 1) Prepare The Pot & Soil 2) Obtain The Cutting 3) Trim The Cutting 4) Prepare The Cutting 5) Plant And Water 6) Cover The Pot 7) Move To A Suitable Location 8) Keep The Soil Moist References Delphiniums bring a few special charms to beds and borders. These plants are stately and elegant in form, they feature lobed palmate foliage as if cut out by scissors, and for a glorious month or two in summer produce spikes or racemes richly laden with delightful cup-shaped flowers. Depending on the hue and shade, they impart grace, radiance, or drama to your garden. Usually grown from seed or acquired as potted plants, it is not difficult to propagate these plants from cuttings. Specifically, they can be propagated from basal cuttings in spring. This method is great if you are enamoured with a particular plant and would like to ‘duplicate’ it. You can propagate Larkspurs from basal cuttings by following these steps when you see fresh shoots at the base of the plant in March or April. We explain the process in 8 simple steps below. Difficulty Medium Equipment Required Gardening gloves, a sharp knife, scissors, a propagator or a clear plastic bag, a rooting hormone or raw honey and cinnamon powder When To Take Cuttings March-April (depending on your location in the UK) 1) Prepare The Pot & Soil Take a small 9cm terra-cotta (but not ceramic or plastic) pot which has drainage holes. Prepare a soil of multi-purpose compost and perlite, grit or sharp sand in a 2:1 ratio. Fill the pot about two-thirds of the way, leaving the rest of the soil aside. Make a shallow pencil-sized hole where you will insert the cutting. 2) Obtain The Cutting At the base of the plant, choose a strong shoot that is 7-9cm in height and about the diameter of a pencil, and is forming and unfolding leaves. Remove 1cm or so of soil below this shoot. The sub-soil greyish-brown tissue-like portion of the shoot will become visible. Cut through this part of the shoot with a gardening knife or secateurs with a single clean cut. 3) Trim The Cutting Remove the lower leaves from their attachment to the shoot and retain 2-3 fresh leaves toward the top of the cutting. Also, cut off any side shoots. Most of the cutting should be bare and only the top quarter should have young leaves. 4) Prepare The Cutting Dip the base of the cutting in rooting hormone, otherwise use the time-honoured technique of dipping in honey and cinnamon.1 Dip the cutting to about a quarter of its length in cinnamon powder, then dip in raw honey, and dip once again in the cinnamon. “I have never used cinnamon and honey for rooting cuttings, but there are studies that support it over not using any rooting aids,” shares Master Horticulturist Dan Ori. “I do use rooting hormone and most trials support that it is more effective than other solutions.”2 5) Plant And Water Insert the cutting into the pot you have prepared. Fill the pot with the prepared soil such that 25-30% of the cutting is in the soil. Pat down the soil but do not tightly pack it. Water in moderation so that the soil becomes moist all through. 6) Cover The Pot If you have a propagator, put the pot in it, otherwise cover the pot with a clear plastic bag in which you have made several small perforations. Tie the opening of the bag to the rim of the pot and ensure that the bag does not cling to the cutting. The perforated plastic bag will conserve moisture but will allow the cutting to breathe. 7) Move To A Suitable Location Place the propagator or the pot in a cool place where it gets indirect or filtered sunlight for a prolonged period. Do not put under direct sunlight. Though the ambient temperature should not be warm, the soil temperature should be. If the cutting is in a propagator, turn on bottom heat at 20-24°C. If it is in a pot, put the pot on a heating pad. 8) Keep The Soil Moist Keep watering the cutting sparingly but frequently so that the soil stays moist throughout. When you water the plant, remove the plastic bag and put it back on after 10-15 minutes. Cuttings will root in 15-30 days. Shortly after the cutting has rooted, the pot should be removed from the propagator or the plastic bag should be removed from over the young plant. After the plant has grown, harden it and pot on. References 1. Study the effect of honey and cinnamon on stimulating rooting process for some plants and compare them with the rooting hormone. (2021, February 9). Journal of Pure & Applied Sciences. https://doi.org/10.51984/jopas.v20i1.990 2. Khalid, W., & Ahmed, A. (2024). Study of some Natural Substances in Rooting of two Fig Varieties. International Journal of Agricultural and Statistical Sciences, 18(1), 183–188.
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Delphiniums Are Best Supported To Prevent Damage - Consider These 3 Options
IN THIS GUIDE When To Provide Support Support Options To Consider 1) Single Canes Or Stakes 2) Cage / Ring Supports 3) Grid Supports Whether you are growing perennial delphiniums, or annual delphiniums (Larkspur), you will find that they are wonderful additions to many gardens. However, both of these types of delphiniums do require some care, and one thing that you need to think about is support. Delphiniums are tall plants – though some are taller than others. The particular cultivar that you have chosen will determine exactly how fragile and likely to topple it might be. Where exactly you have placed your plant will also determine whether it needs staking, or another form of support. In some cases, surrounding plants or man-made features in a garden may already protect your plants to a degree, and, especially with shorter delphiniums, additional support may not always be required. However, most delphiniums are best supported, since even in a sheltered spot their hollow stems and height make them vulnerable to damage. The last thing you want is for a sudden summer storm or windy weather to knock over these majestic plants and disappoint you after all your work to grow and tend to them. When To Provide Support Delphinium supports should be added in the spring before the plants tower to their summer heights. Take care when inserting supports not to damage the plants themselves or their root systems. If planting out delphiniums, you may wish to consider placing supports before planting, to avoid any potential damage or disruption. Support Options To Consider When supporting delphiniums, it is important to remember that these are plants which like to sway a little in a gentle breeze. Tying too tightly to too rigid a support can do more harm than good. In a particularly sheltered spot, where delphiniums are at the back of a border with other plants in front, you may be able to get away without supporting them. However, to avoid risk to your plants, here are some support options to consider. 1) Single Canes Or Stakes The simplest and most straightforward way to support a few delphiniums is to use single bamboo canes, or natural branch stakes pushed into the soil nearby. The plants can be tied in using natural twine to these supports as they grow. Just be sure to use a stake which is tall enough for the cultivar you are growing, and if growing in containers, make sure that the pot is heavy and sturdy enough not to fall over when the support is added. 2) Cage / Ring Supports Another option is to create or buy a cage or ring-type support, which provides some support by encircling the stem up to 1m or so in height. Owner of delphinium nursery Home Farm Plants, Graham Austin, shares his specialist advice on staking delphiniums: “It is important to stake them. I’d recommend using 3 canes around each plant, tying around the canes to form a cage as they grow”. There are plenty of reclaimed materials that you might use to create a cage or ring support – from strong fencing wire to a simple design with three canes and some natural twine. Such supports can be hidden by other plants and can be designed so as to be relatively unobtrusive. 3) Grid Supports If you are growing a larger number of delphiniums, you might also consider placing a series of stakes or canes with a lattice of twine between them. “In informal planting schemes, I like to use long thick forking branches pushed deep into the soil, as this gives a softer rustic feel to a border,” shares Dan Ori, a Horticultural Consultant. Again, at 1m or so in height, this can provide support for a number of taller plants while remaining relatively unobtrusive in the overall look of the garden.
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Tender Geraniums Are Typically Grown As Annuals, But They Can Be Overwintered
IN THIS GUIDE Overwintering Tender Geraniums 1) Taking & Overwintering Cuttings 2) Overwintering Pelargonium Bare Root 3) Overwintering In Containers Hardy Geraniums Geraniums can be excellent value flowering plants to grow in your garden, but it is important to understand that there are lots of different varieties that require a different level of care in the winter months. How you care for geraniums in winter will depend on whether you are growing tender geraniums or true, hardy geraniums (also known as cranesbill) in your garden. Read on to understand how to care for both types of geraniums in the winter. Overwintering Tender Geraniums Tender geraniums, technically called pelargonium, are perennial plants, but because they are not hardy for the winter months at all, they are often treated as annuals in the UK. There are three main ways to make sure that you can keep hold of the pelargonium you love for future years, which we have shared below: 1) Taking & Overwintering Cuttings Taking cuttings is a great choice, especially if you have a number of plants or if you are growing soft-stemmed species. However, if you want to take this route, preparation begins long before winter actually arrives. The first step is to take softwood cuttings from your plants, which you should do in late summer. Once your cuttings have rooted successfully, these should be overwintered indoors, in a bright and frost-free location. They should be watered moderately and the growing medium should be allowed to dry out between each watering. In late winter, it is a good idea to feed your young plants every 7-10 days with an organic liquid fertiliser with balanced NPK (nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium content). Around this time, as spring approaches, it is also a good idea to pinch out the growing tips of your new plants, as this encourages a bushy growth habit. You then need to pot up individual cuttings into 9cm pots in the middle of spring, harden them off, and then plant them outside – only once all risk of frost has passed where you live. 2) Overwintering Pelargonium Bare Root Another option to consider if you have large numbers of pelargoniums to overwinter is overwintering them as bare-root plants. Unfortunately, this is not the most reliable of methods and success rates may be patchy. Another thing to consider is that this option is only suitable for varieties of pelargonium which have tough and woody stems, and not for more tender-stemmed types. The idea of this method is to overwinter the plants out of the soil, in a state of dormancy. You should lift the plants you want to save from their positions in your garden before the first seasonal frosts. Next, you should dust off any excess soil from the roots and lay them out in a cool but frost-free location so that the stems and foliage dry out. Then, either wrap them in a newspaper or hang them upside down in a suitable frost-free location. In early spring, you should then take a look at the plants and keep those which show signs of growth. Taking these plants, you should first rehydrate them by soaking the roots in water for a few hours. You can then pot up the rehydrated plants which have survived the winter and cut back their stems to a height of around 10cm. These should be placed in a warm and bright location, hardened off, and planted out in your garden a little after the expected last frost date in your area. 3) Overwintering In Containers The third and final option for overwintering pelargoniums is to pot them up and grow them as container plants indoors or under cover. Of course, container plants will take up some space, so this is usually only an option where there are only a few tender geraniums to overwinter. With this method, you have the option to either keep the plants in pots in active growth or cut them back to 10cm so they are more dormant. Space may often dictate which one is the right option for you. Container geraniums can be kept in pots over winter as long as they are in a light and frost-free location, with good airflow and ventilation. Those which are kept in active growth will usually need to be watered around once a week, while those in dormancy need only be watered very sparingly until growth resumes in spring. Container plants should then be repotted in mid-spring, hardened off, then planted out after all risk of frost has passed. Hardy Geraniums Hardy geraniums are far lower maintenance plants. The most commonly grown hardy geraniums are H5-H7 hardy, so should make it through the winter months unscathed without any special care or protection, after flowering right up until the first frosts. “As with most garden plants, a mulch of compost in the autumn provides extra protection and also feeds the soil, encouraging stronger growth in the spring,” shares Master Horticulturist Roy Nicol.
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11 Dahlias In Shades Of Pink Chosen By Dachshund Dahlia Plant Nursery
IN THIS GUIDE 1) D. ‘Kilburn Rose’ 2) D. ‘Magenta Star’ (Sin) 3) D. ‘Topmix Pink’ (Sin/DwB) 4) D. Happy Single Wink 5) D. ‘Gallery Rembrandt’ 6) D. ‘Vancouver’ (Misc) 7) D. ‘Franz Kafka’ (Pom) 8) D. ‘Vassio Meggos’ 9) D. ‘Bluetiful’ 10) D. ‘Café au Lait’ 11) D. ‘Take Off’ (Anem) With a lengthy blooming season and a wide range of architectural forms to choose from, dahlias are an ideal summer flower. Indeed, the more you pare them back, the more they blossom, meaning your hard work receives an almost instant reward. It’s no surprise that pink is among the most popular colour for garden displays, either. Capable of mixing well with pretty much any other colour scheme, they’re a breath of fresh air and instantly liven up any environment. “My favourite pink dahlia is ‘Bishop of Leicester’, as the subtle tone changes of pink in the petals look like they have been painted using a fine watercolour brush,” shares Horticultural Consultant Dan Ori. “This is a plant of competing colours with watercolour pink petals centred with vibrant yellow stamens and dramatic dark foliage. “It is an excellent option for when you are trying to knit together a border containing contrasting colours. It has an average height of 70cm and spreads to 50cm, making it a useful plant for the front or middle of a border.” Below, I have handpicked my own choice of a number of pink dahlia varieties for your perusal. All of these varieties mentioned below are H3 hardy, growing in full sun in a sheltered location, and produce flowers in the summer and autumn months. 1) D. ‘Kilburn Rose’ COMMON NAME(S): Dahlia ‘Kilburn Rose’ FLOWERS: Pink and orange SOIL PREFERENCE: Any soil type; any pH SIZE: 1-1.5m in height, 0.1-0.5m spread ‘Kilburn Rose’ is a waterlily-style dahlia of medium height, growing up to 120cm at full maturity. Its double petals are a startling shade of peach, while the softer pinks and bright yellows of its centre make it appear as though the flower heads are positively glowing. Set against the greenery of its foliage, the blossoms of ‘Kilburn Rose’ are a sight for sore eyes indeed and look best when arranged in clusters of five or six plants next to one another. 2) D. ‘Magenta Star’ (Sin) COMMON NAME(S): Dahlia ‘Magenta Star’ FLOWERS: Pink SOIL PREFERENCE: Clay, loam, sand; any pH SIZE: 1-1.5m in height, 0.5-1m spread Ever so slightly taller than ‘Kilburn Rose’, ‘Magenta Star’ can reach up to 130cm in height and boasts single flower heads of around 10cm in diameter. The dramatic magenta pink of their petals gives way to a deep rusty red disc at their centre, fringed by golden anthers. Like most dahlias, it has a longevity to its blossoms which extends right up until the first frosts, but the unusual brown foliage and stems mean it still carries intrigue even when not in bloom. 3) D. ‘Topmix Pink’ (Sin/DwB) COMMON NAME(S): Dahlia ‘Topmix Pink’ FLOWERS: Pink and yellow SOIL PREFERENCE: Clay, loam, sand; any pH SIZE: 0.1-0.5m in height, 0.1-0.5m spread The ‘Topmix’ range of dahlias are floriferous bushy plants with single flowers and low-growing habits. ‘Pink’ does what it says on the tin by displaying bright pink petals around a yellow honeycomb centre, creating a pleasing contrast against the dark green foliage beneath. ‘Topmix Pink’ is among the smallest offerings on this list, with its total height and spread not exceeding 30cm and its flower-heads measuring a mere 6cm in diameter. As such, it’s perfect for container cultivation or for filling in little nooks and crannies in a mixed border. 4) D. Happy Single Wink COMMON NAME(S): Dahlia FLOWERS: Pink, red and purple SOIL PREFERENCE: Clay, loam, sand; any pH SIZE: 0.5-1m in height, 0.1-0.5m spread ‘Happy Single Wink’ is another dwarf dahlia on the smaller side, but one that’s no less cheerful for its diminutive dimensions – as the name attests! It is characterised by single bright pink petals darkening to a deep crimson at their centre, while yellow anthers add a further splash of vibrancy. The plant can reach up to 60cm in height and the flower heads 10cm across, making them ideal for adding late summer or autumn colour to your borders and beds. 5) D. ‘Gallery Rembrandt’ COMMON NAME(S): Dahlia ‘gallery rembrandt’ FLOWERS: Pink SOIL PREFERENCE: Clay, loam, sand; any pH SIZE: 0.5-1m in height, 0.1-0.5m spread Another dwarf variety, ‘Gallery Rembrandt’ shares similar dimensions with ‘Happy Single Wink’, though its flowers are comprised of fully double petals rather than single ones. Bright pink fades to a lighter shade of lilac at the edges of the petals, with a yellow hue imbuing the centre of the bloom. They’re particularly prolific flowerers from midsummer right until the temperatures plummet and the frost sets in, so they’re great for keeping your garden active and attractive when other plants are dying back. 6) D. ‘Vancouver’ (Misc) COMMON NAME(S): Dahlia ‘Vancouver’ FLOWERS: Pink and white SOIL PREFERENCE: Clay, loam sand; any pH SIZE: 1-1.5m in height, 0.5-1m spread One of the more ostentatious options on this list, ‘Vancouver’ is a fully double dinner plate variety of dahlia with blooms that can reach a whopping 25cm in diameter! Dinner plate varieties are a favourite of dahlia specialist Elaine Patullo, the owner of Dachshund Dahlia Plant Nursery, who loves them for their size and ‘wow-factor’. At up to 1m in height, they’re great for placing among tall grasses or in a mixed herbaceous border to draw the eye. What’s more, the colouring on ‘Vancouver’ dahlias is no less showy. While pink and cream vie for supremacy in the flecked petals, there are also suggestions of blue, violet and burgundy on display here, too. 7) D. ‘Franz Kafka’ (Pom) COMMON NAME(S): Dahlia ‘Franz Kafka’ FLOWERS: Pink and purple SOIL PREFERENCE: Chalk, loam, sand; any pH SIZE: 0.5-1m in height, 0.5-1m spread Although ‘Franz Kafka’ is a dahlia of reasonable stature (80cm at full maturity), its flower heads are among the smallest of any cultivar at just 5cm across. Tightly compacted ruffles of bright pink petals make for beautiful pompons that bob atop their stems in the breeze. This disparity between their height and flower size makes them an intriguing choice for a mixed herbaceous border. At the same time, the delicate daintiness of the blossoms means they’re just as popular as part of a multi-coloured bouquet, too. 8) D. ‘Vassio Meggos’ COMMON NAME(S): Dahlia ‘Vassio Meggos’ FLOWERS: Pink and purple SOIL PREFERENCE: Any soil type; any pH SIZE: 1-1.5m in height, 0.1-0.5m spread This clump-forming dahlia is an offshoot of the Spartacus variety and has a range of attributes in its favour. Firstly, there’s its size; at up to 140cm in height, it’s one of the tallest dahlias available, while a single plant can produce up to 25 flowering heads at the same time. As for the blossoms themselves, they’re no shrinking violets at up to 25cm in diameter. Lavender-pink in colour, the double petals fold back towards the stem in a highly pleasing manner, marking them out as a showstopper in any setting. 9) D. ‘Bluetiful’ COMMON NAME(S): Dahlia ‘Bluetiful’ FLOWERS: Pink and purple SOIL PREFERENCE: Clay, loam, sand; any pH SIZE: 1-1.5m in height, 0.5-1m spread As the name suggests, ‘Bluetiful’ carries a blueish tinge to the lavender-pink of its petals. The flowers are decorative in shape and feature a slightly ruffled structure to their petal placement, making them almost reminiscent of the surrealist paintings of Salvador Dalí or someone similar. It is these captivating attributes which make ‘Bluetiful’ such a charming addition to any outdoor display. At 90cm in height and with flowers approximately 13cm across, it’s a versatile option which can complement similarly low-key colour schemes. 10) D. ‘Café au Lait’ COMMON NAME(S): Dahlia ‘café au lait’ FLOWERS: Pink, cream and orange SOIL PREFERENCE: Clay, loam, sand; any pH SIZE: 1-1.5m in height, 0.5-1m spread Another decorative dahlia, ‘Café au Lait’ takes its name from the fact that its flowers begin life with the creamy white colour of milk, tinged with the tan of coffee. However, as it matures, you’ll notice an irresistible apricot hue spread across the flowerhead, giving it a softer and dreamier aspect. The size of the blossoms can reach up to 20cm and this, coupled with the sumptuous colouring of its fully double petals, makes it a perennial favourite with wedding planners. 11) D. ‘Take Off’ (Anem) COMMON NAME(S): Dahlia ‘Take Off’ FLOWERS: Pink and yellow SOIL PREFERENCE: Any soil type; any pH SIZE: 0.5-1m in height, 0.1-0.5m spread ‘Take Off’ is of the anemone flowering dahlia variety, which has a tendency to display muted tones in its colouring. This stunning specimen combines mauve lower petals with creamy-pink upper ones, flecked with edgings of yellow. All in all, it makes for a rather jaw-dropping addition to your borders. With flowers 8cm across and 90cm in height on the plant itself, it’s a striking but space-efficient option for your display.
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11 Pure White Dahlia Types Featuring Florist Georgie Newbery
IN THIS GUIDE 1) D. ‘My Love’ 2) D. ‘Honka White’ 3) D. ‘Trelyn Kiwi’ 4) D. ‘Small World’ (Pom) 5) D. ‘Lady Liberty’ 6) D. ‘Eveline’ 7) D. ‘Silver Years’ 8) D. ‘Eternal Snow’ 9) D. ‘White Onesta’ 10) D. ‘Karma Maarten Zwaan’ 11) D. ‘Fleurel’ An import from the Americas, dahlias have taken to the British climate with aplomb – and Britons have taken to them with equal enthusiasm. Available in a variety of forms, they’re as versatile as they are visually stunning. “One plant I can’t live without is the dahlia, as I love a hard worker with masses of chutzpah!” jokes Georgie Newbery, a Florist. Indeed, they’re often prized for the vibrancy of their colourings, but you might find that the brilliance of white is actually a superior option for your display – not least because it goes well with absolutely everything, including other white flowers. While many people love the exoticism of cactus varieties or the architectural intrigue of a spherical pompom flowerhead, it’s a good idea to include some single-flowering specimens in your mix to allow pollinators easy access to the goods. We asked Master Horticulturist Dan Ori for his favourite white flowering dahlia: “I recommend Dahlia ‘Bishop of Dover’. The white blooms of Dover will get you singing like Vera Lynn, and I love the way the pure white petals look like they are soaking up a lilac-pink hint from the sky on a summer’s evening. “Reaching a height of 90-100cm, this Dahlia towers like undulating white cliffs through a border.” With that in mind, here’s a selection of my favourite white dahlias to grow in your garden. It’s important to note that all of the varieties mentioned in this list bloom in summer and autumn, are H3 hardy and need to be grown in a sheltered location in full sun. A variety of styles and shapes are on offer here, so there’s sure to be something to please everyone. 1) D. ‘My Love’ COMMON NAME(S): Dahlia ‘My Love’ FLOWERS: White SOIL PREFERENCE: Clay, loam, sand; any pH SIZE: 0.5-1m in height, 0.5-1m spread A cactus variety, ‘My Love’ is beloved for the purity of its colour and the strange spear-like shape of its petals. Each one unfurls from the central flowerhead like a limb stretching in the morning, while the hint of yellow at its core is a beautiful companion to the white everywhere else. Growing up to 80cm in height and 50cm in spread, it has blossoms that can measure as much as 15cm across. As such, it’s a lovely choice for a border, patio pot or even indoors on a sunny windowsill. 2) D. ‘Honka White’ COMMON NAME(S): Dahlia ‘Honka White’ FLOWERS: White and yellow SOIL PREFERENCE: Clay, loam, sand; any pH SIZE: 0.5-1m in height, 0.1-0.5m spread A single flowering variety of dahlia, ‘Honka White’ is no less impressive for the sparsity of its petals. Indeed, their pointed nature, along with the spacing in between, makes them reminiscent of a windmill stretching its blades towards the sky. With bright yellow stamen casting a honeyed hue on the white canvas beneath and lush green foliage acting as the ideal backdrop, it’s guaranteed to catch the eye and start tongues wagging wherever it’s planted. 3) D. ‘Trelyn Kiwi’ COMMON NAME(S): Dahlia ‘Trelyn Kiwi’ FLOWERS: White and pink SOIL PREFERENCE: Any soil type; any pH SIZE: 1-1.5m in height, 0.1-0.5m spread Another cactus dahlia, ‘Trelyn Kiwi’ has petals which are chunkier and more curved than the straight, tendril-like lances of ‘My Love’. It also carries a slightly pinkish tinge to its white, while the yellow reflections of the buried core complete a very pleasing collage of colours. Growing up to 1m in height, it’s ideal for adding some structural variety to a mixed herbaceous border, but the unusual shape of its flowerhead makes it an excellent choice for a cut flower, too. 4) D. ‘Small World’ (Pom) COMMON NAME(S): Dahlia ‘Small World’ FLOWERS: White SOIL PREFERENCE: Clay, loam, sand; any pH SIZE: 0.5-1m in height, 0.1-0.5m spread The pompom blossoms of ‘Small World’ float above the dark green leaves beneath, while the white flower-heads tinged with yellow provides a very pleasing contrast to the foliage. The whole plant achieves a maximum height of just 1m, but it’s the delicate blooms which are particularly petite – and all the more lovely for it. From the cheeriness of their movement in the breeze to the upbeat children’s song that their name is inspired by, it’s impossible not to have a positive disposition when planting, admiring or tending to these little lovelies. 5) D. ‘Lady Liberty’ COMMON NAME(S): Dahlia ‘Lady Liberty’ FLOWERS: White SOIL PREFERENCE: Clay, loam, sand; any pH SIZE: 0.5-1m in height, 0.1-0.5m spread From the pristine clarity of her snow-white petals to the demure manner in which they fold back towards the stem, ‘Lady Liberty’ is every inch a female of regal bearing. Set against the plush greenery of her foliage, her flower-heads look magnificent throughout summer and well into autumn. Reaching 120cm in height, she’s a medium-sized dahlia that will fit just as well into a mixed display as she does in pots or vases, whether container-grown or as a cut flower. 6) D. ‘Eveline’ COMMON NAME(S): Dahlia ‘Eveline’ FLOWERS: White and purple SOIL PREFERENCE: Clay, loam, sand; any pH SIZE: 0.5-1m in height, 0.5-1m spread Speaking of elegant ladies, ‘Eveline’ could give ‘Lady Liberty’ a run for her money in the head-turning stakes. This decorative dahlia boasts soft white petals unfurling in a spherical shape, while their outer edges have just been brushed with the slightest hint of a lilac hue. It makes for an overall aesthetic that’s utterly mesmerising, and the prolific nature of its flowering period means there are plenty of blossoms to go around. 7) D. ‘Silver Years’ COMMON NAME(S): Dahlia ‘Silver Years’ FLOWERS: White, pink and cream SOIL PREFERENCE: Any soil type; any pH SIZE: 0.1-0.5m in height, 0.1-0.5m spread This is a fully double-flowering decorative dahlia with soft contours and a scintillating colour combination. The white petals are imbued with a subtle flush of pink, which intensifies in warmer weather and becomes even more noticeable at their extremities. Capable of growing up to 1.5m in height, it’s one of the taller dahlias available, while the flower heads can command a diameter of 10cm in total. As such, it’s invariably a darling among horticulturalists, wherever it’s placed. 8) D. ‘Eternal Snow’ COMMON NAME(S): Dahlia ‘Eternal Snow’ FLOWERS: White SOIL PREFERENCE: Any soil type; any pH SIZE: 1-1.5m in height, 0.1-0.5m spread ‘Eternal Snow’ is, as the name suggests, characterised by the purest of whites, though there is a noticeably greenish-yellow tint at the centre of the flowerhead. 12cm across, they bob serenely atop sturdy stems up to 1m in height, making for a truly relaxing spectacle. The blossoms bear resemblance to waterlilies, making them an excellent choice for planting alongside ponds, fountains and other water features. Cared for appropriately, they’ll produce stunning blooms until the first frosts. 9) D. ‘White Onesta’ COMMON NAME(S): Dahlia ‘White Onesta’ FLOWERS: White and yellow SOIL PREFERENCE: Clay, loam, sand; any pH SIZE: 0.5-1m in height, 0.5-1m spread Another waterlily-style dahlia, ‘White Onesta’ is most remarkable for the large dimensions of its flowering heads. They most commonly boast a diameter of around 15cm, but on certain occasions can even reach an incredible 25cm! As well as being oversized, the blossoms also last remarkably long even after being cut, which is why they’re such a popular option for placing in vases around the home. 10) D. ‘Karma Maarten Zwaan’ COMMON NAME(S): Dahlia ‘Karma Maarten Zwaan’ FLOWERS: White and yellow SOIL PREFERENCE: Any soil type; any pH SIZE: 0.5-1m in height, 0.5-1m spread Although not quite as prodigious as ‘White Onesta’, ‘Karma Maarten Zwaan’ is another waterlily-like dahlia with large blossoms of up to 15cm in diameter. While it might be slightly smaller in size, it does boast more depth than its dinner-plate counterpart. That’s due to the layer upon layer of petals that are gently ruffled underneath its soft yellow centre, providing additional intrigue for the casual observer. Another which provides impressive longevity after cutting. 11) D. ‘Fleurel’ COMMON NAME(S): Dahlia ‘Fleurel’ FLOWERS: White and cream SOIL PREFERENCE: Any soil type; any pH SIZE: 1-1.5m in height, 0.1-0.5m spread Like the two aforementioned dahlias, ‘Fleurel’ is another variety prized for its colossal flower-heads. With a maximum diameter of 20cm, the cultivar produces beautifully arranged petals in the purest white, with a suggestion of yellow at the centre casting a golden glow onto its blooms. With this in mind, it’s no wonder that ‘Fleurel’ is among the most popular choices in wedding bouquets. Nonetheless, it’s equally as popular with bees and butterflies as it is with brides, so it’s a superb way to encourage biodiversity in your garden, too.
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Remember To Pinch Out Your Dahlias: It Will Help To Promote Better Growth
IN THIS GUIDE Why Pinch Out? When To Pinch Out How To Pinch Dahlias Dahlias are a large group of stunning perennial plants widely grown here in the United Kingdom, as they can flower from mid-summer right up until the first frosts at the onset of winter. “Dahlias are easy to grow and have wow factor, and, flowering from July to the first frosts, they are the most giving of flowering plants,” shares Florist Georgie Newbery. Available in a dazzling array of shapes, sizes and colours from cool whites to vibrant reds, there is a dahlia to suit every garden. Why Pinch Out? “Pinching out is useful, especially for promoting more flower heads,” Elaine Patullo from Dachshund Dahlias puts it simply. Dahlias are easy to care for and will often grow well enough if left to their own devices. However, pinching out (removing the central growth tip when young) will encourage the plant to develop into a more sturdy and bushy plant and produce more flowers. Pinching out dahlias is a straight-forward process and is applicable to all the different types of dahlias available to grow: Identify when to pinch out – typically this will be when your plant has grown to 30-40cm in height. Pinch out the top growth – the central stem of the plant. Pinching out should be undertaken early in the summer before the plant has matured and begun flowering. This process is explained in more depth below. Difficulty Easy Equipment Required Secateurs or snips When To Deadhead May, June, July When To Pinch Out Dahlias should be pinched out in the early stages of their growth when the plant has grown to about 30-40cm high. “If you pinch your dahlia out once the plant has 3 sets of leaves, this will help the plant to bush up and send more lower leaves up,” explains Jack Gott, owner of JRG Dahlias. Here in the UK, this tends to be around May to July, depending on whether the plants have been started off undercover in a greenhouse or planted directly outside. “If you are growing from a tuber and have several shoots appearing this is not strictly necessary unless you want a shorter and bushier plant,” says June Nash, secretary of The National Dahlia Society. How To Pinch Dahlias Once the dahlia plant has reached the desired size and stage, it is time to pinch out the top growth. The material to remove or pinch out is the topmost leaf and stem growth of the central and tallest stem on the plant. This is known in horticultural terminology as the ‘Terminal Bud’. In the image below, this would be the central stem which is showing signs of a new bud – This new growth only needs to be removed down to the plant’s top pair of leaves, which can sometimes mean only removing a very small amount of the plant. “If you are growing from a small plant or rooted cutting it is advisable to pinch out the centre bud when about 4 pairs of leaves are showing,” says June. “This will encourage the side buds in each leaf axle to grow, making a bushier plant.” To remove, the new growth can simply be pinched off using a thumb and forefinger or a sharp and clean pair of small snips or scissors, being careful not to damage any growth on either side. “Down on the south coast of England, I usually use the week of the Chelsea Flower Show to remind me to pick out my Dahlias (Late May),” shares Horticulturist Dan Ori. Don’t worry about pinching out this new growth. It may delay flowering for a short time but it won’t stop the plant from growing, in fact, it will do the opposite and can encourage more stems to grow and more flowers to bloom. David Hall, from dahlia nursery Halls of Heddon, says that you should be rewarded in around 1-2 months for pinching out your dahlias, with larger varieties taking longer to get to their best.
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