Growing
Colocasia As A Houseplant - Here's How You Can Grow Taro In The Right Spot Indoors
IN THIS GUIDE Can You Grow Colocasia As A Houseplant? Indoors Growing Conditions Ongoing Care Colocasia is a dramatic and attractive foliage plant native to much warmer zones, but it can be grown successfully in the UK. This is a plant which can be placed outdoors in a warm and sheltered spot over the summer months if you have a suitable place in your garden. However, if you do not have a suitable location in your garden, or do not have a garden at all, you may be wondering if you can grow colocasia, also known as elephant ear or taro, as a houseplant. Can You Grow Colocasia As A Houseplant? The good news is that you can enjoy these tender perennials as houseplants year-round. You don’t necessarily have to place them outside in a garden over the summer months. However, colocasias do need to be provided with certain specific conditions to thrive. You need to place them in the right location indoors and care for them correctly, which we explain how to do below. Indoors Growing Conditions If you would like to grow colocasia indoors, the most important thing is to provide the right growing conditions. Light Colocasia grown as houseplants needs a location in bright, indirect light. Temperature These plants require warm conditions to thrive. To keep them in active growth year-round, you will need to be able to provide temperatures of around 20°C over the winter months in order to prevent the plant from losing its leaves and going dormant over the winter period. Humidity Humidity is also a crucial thing to consider – as South-Asian natives, Colocasia requires a humid atmosphere. A location in a bright, steamy bathroom, near the kitchen sink, or in a humid conservatory can be ideal. Container Conditions Choose a container for your colocasia which is large enough to accommodate the plant’s root ball. Corms should be planted in a pot at least 25cm in diameter and mature plants will usually need a pot around 40-50cm in width and depth. Select a container which is good at retaining moisture, such as a glazed ceramic pot, rather than a terracotta one which will lose water more quickly. Soil Colocasia needs a moist, humus-rich and fertile potting mix. A peat-free multi-purpose compost or potting mix will work well. Mulch over the top of the container with some homemade compost or other organic material for moisture retention and for fertility for these relatively hungry plants. Ongoing Care As long as you have chosen a suitable spot to grow colocasia as a houseplant, you should find it reasonably easy to care for over time. Watering Water to make sure that the growing medium remains consistently moist. Check the pot regularly to make sure that the medium is not drying out. Fertilising It is a good idea, in addition to providing a fertile growing medium and mulching to feed colocasias that are growing in containers with a balanced, organic liquid feed, like compost tea or seaweed feed, every month or so while the plant is actively growing. Common Pests & Problems If the leaves on your colocasias are turning yellow, this can be a sign of a problem with watering or feeding. Make sure that you are providing enough water and enough nutrients for your plants. However, remember that leaves dying in autumn may simply be a sign that the plant is entering a period of dormancy, which it will do if temperatures fall below around 20°C. Colocasias can also encounter problems with common houseplant pests, like whitefly, and spider mites. Make sure your houseplants are as healthy and happy as possible and take organic steps to protect your plants from severe infestations when growing colocasia indoors. If you place your colocasia houseplants in the right spot and take care of their basic needs, you should not find them difficult to care for inside your home.
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Colocasia Won't Make It Through Winter Outdoors - These Are Your Options
IN THIS GUIDE 1) Grow Indoors Year-Round 2) Move Container-Grown Colocasia Indoors 3) Pot Up Plants Grown In The Ground 4) Lift And Store Tubers Colocasia can be an excellent plant to grow as it is ornamental, with large, interesting leaves. However, it is important to recognise that while growing this plant in the UK is relatively easy, it cannot make it through the winter in most gardens. To care for colocasia in winter you have several options: Grow colocasia indoors all year round. Move container-grown plants indoors to use as houseplants over the winter months. Dig up plants and pot them up to move indoors, keeping them in active growth. Dig up and store the tubers over the winter months before replanting in spring. We discuss each of these options in more detail below. 1) Grow Indoors Year-Round If you wish, you can grow colocasia as houseplants year-round. They should be placed in a warm, humid spot, with bright but indirect light. To remain evergreen throughout the colder months, you will need to be able to maintain a temperature of around 20°C. So, in a cooler home, it may not be possible to provide the conditions to keep the plant looking good all winter. However, if you have a suitable spot to keep your colocasia thriving through the winter, this can be an easy option. Just reduce watering (but keep the soil moist and the conditions humid) over the coldest months. You can also allow your plant to go dormant, keeping the pot indoors in a suitable spot and allowing the leaves to die back before new leaves emerge in the spring. Dormant plants require watering only very sparingly over the winter months. 2) Move Container-Grown Colocasia Indoors Another option if you are growing your colocasia in pots is to place these outdoors in spring, after your last frost date, and then bring them inside again before the first frosts arrive. Bring the container indoors and keep it around 20°C or let it remain in dormancy during the winter, watering only sparingly, before new growth emerges and the plants can be placed outdoors again in spring. You might also simply treat taro as an annual crop, harvesting the tubers when the foliage begins to die back in the autumn. At this point, you can also take divisions or offset corms and pot these up to keep indoors until spring. 3) Pot Up Plants Grown In The Ground You do not necessarily have to grow colocasia in containers. You can also place them, if you have a suitable spot, in the ground in your garden. You can plant them out in spring in a moist bed, bog garden, or around the margins of a pond and then lift them and pot up the plants to move indoors for the winter. 4) Lift And Store Tubers “Colocasia can be stored in a greenhouse over winter,” says Colin Skelly, a Horticultural Consultant. “Growth will stop and there may be some die-back but the corm should be fine, especially if the plant is fleece-covered during the coldest weather.” To do so, simply dig up and lift the plant, then cut off all the foliage. Dust or shake off excess dirt from the tubers and then store them in a cool, frost-free location until spring. In early spring, bring the tubers back into growth and out of dormancy by bringing them indoors to a warm location and potting them up. Then, if you wish, plant them back outdoors after the last frost date in your area. By taking care of your colocasia over winter by choosing one of the above methods, you can continue to enjoy your plant over a number of years in your home or garden.
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They Won't Grow As Big, But Potted Colocasia Can Be Moved Indoors Before The First Frosts
IN THIS GUIDE Can You Grow Colocasia In Pots? Choosing A Container Choosing Compost Potting Up Corms Potted Colocasia Care Growing colocasia plants is a great way to bring a tropical look to your garden or your home. These dramatic foliage plants can be placed outdoors in a summer garden or grown indoors year-round. Can You Grow Colocasia In Pots? Not only is it possible to grow colocasia in pots but it is also a very good idea. While the leaves of plants growing in containers will likely not become as large as the leaves of those growing in the ground, growing these plants in containers can be beneficial. Growing colocasia in pots will make it easy for you to shift your plants back indoors before the first frosts, and then back outside after the last frosts in the spring. Choosing A Container Colocasia corms should be planted into a container which is at least 25cm across. If potting up a pot-grown colocasia that you have purchased, you should choose a container which fairly snugly accommodates the root ball of the plant you have selected. It is best to choose a glazed container rather than porous terracotta, as this will aid in water retention. Plastic can retain water well, but remember that choosing plastic pots is definitely not the most eco-friendly option. If you wish to use plastic pots, make sure you use reclaimed options rather than buying new ones. Choosing Compost Fill your pot with a multi-purpose, peat-free compost. This can be a suitable potting mix that you have purchased or one which you have made up yourself. Remember that colocasia needs a suitably moist medium amended with plenty of organic matter. Potting Up Corms When planting colocasia from corms in spring, you should fill your container two-thirds full with your chosen potting mix. You should then place the corm in the pot. The pointier end or the end with the most concentric rings should face upwards. Fill in the area around the corm with more of the potting mix and cover it over. The upper end of the corm should be a couple of centimetres below the surface. Pot up your colocasia as it grows. A mature plant will usually require a container around 40-50cm wide and deep. The larger the container you choose, the less the growing medium will dry out, and the less frequently you will need to water your plant. How Many Can You Plant Per Pot? Place a single corm into a pot which is at least 25cm in diameter. It is best to plant just a single taro plant per pot, as these plants grow relatively quickly. Potted Colocasia Care To care for colocasia in containers, make sure to place them in a location indoors with bright, indirect light, ideally in a humid spot like a bright bathroom or kitchen. You can also grow them outdoors over spring and summer in partial or dappled shade. Water regularly, making sure that the growing medium remains consistently moist. Mulch the top of the container with compost each spring to aid in moisture retention and provide slow-release fertility. Boost growth and health by feeding container-grown plants once a month from spring through summer with a balanced, organic liquid plant feed (such as a compost tea). Maintaining humidity levels is especially important when growing indoors. Mist or stand plants in a shallow, pebble-filled tray of water, as Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly shares: “I have found it essential to stand Colocasia pots in a water tray to ensure it has sufficient moisture in hot weather. “This provides a reservoir of water that the plant can draw on rather than relying solely on the water held in the compost.” You can also group plants together to raise humidity levels. Maintain a minimum temperature of 10-15°C over the winter to keep the plants evergreen all year. As long as you are able to provide the right conditions for your Elephant Ear plant, and can care for it correctly, you should find it a relatively easy and straightforward plant to grow in pots.
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'Black Magic' To 'White Lava' - Here's 15 Taro Types Loved By Horticulturists
IN THIS GUIDE Choosing The Right Variety 1) C. esculenta ‘Black Coral’ 2) C. esculenta ‘Black Magic’ 3) C. esculenta ‘Blue Hawaii’ 4) C. esculenta ‘Burgundy Stem’ 5) C. esculenta ‘Coal Miner’ 6) C. esculenta ‘Hawaiian Punch’ 7) C. esculenta ‘Illustris’ 8) C. esculenta ‘Cranberry Stem’ 9) C. esculenta ‘Maui Sunrise’ 10) C. esculenta ‘Metallica’ 11) C. esculenta ‘Mojito’ 12) C. esculenta ‘Pharaoh’s Mask’ 13) C. esculenta ‘Aloha’ 14) C. esculenta ‘Diamond Head’ 15) C. esculenta ‘White Lava’ References There is a wide range of dramatic colocasia varieties which make excellent ornamental garden plants. Although it is native to much warmer climes, colocasia can be grown outdoors over the summer months in the UK, or grown indoors as a houseplant year-round, as Horticulturist Dan Ori explains: “Colocasia is a great plant to grow indoors and you can give them a summer holiday in a sheltered spot in the garden in summer. “They can look spectacular clustered around Cannas and Musa (bananas).” There is a huge selection of different colours and variations to choose from, which makes these very varied foliage plants. Choosing The Right Variety Usually, one factor above all others which will help growers decide which colocasia varieties to grow is the visual appearance of the large leaves and stems. Of course, you should also look at the size of the colocasia you are considering, and where exactly you plan to grow it. It can be helpful to think holistically about your plant choices, so consider not only the conditions that this plant needs, and what each cultivar looks like in isolation, but how it will look with other plants in your garden, or as part of your houseplant collection. To help you decide which of the many colocasia cultivars you would like to add to your collection, here is a list of some of the very best options for UK growers. Bear in mind that all varieties in this list are H1B hardy and should be grown in a sheltered condition in full sun or part shade. 1) C. esculenta ‘Black Coral’ COMMON NAME(S): Taro ‘Black Coral’ FOLIAGE: Purple STEM: Black SOIL PREFERENCE: Loam or sand; any pH SIZE: 1-1.5m in height, 0.5-1m spread This is one of a series of eight colocasias called the ‘Royal Hawaiian’ series, which was introduced by the US company Planthaven.1 It has deep purple-black leaves, with purple-blue veins and deep purple-black stems. 2) C. esculenta ‘Black Magic’ COMMON NAME(S): Taro ‘Black Magic’ FOLIAGE: Purple, black and green STEM: Black and purple FLOWERS: White FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer SOIL PREFERENCE: Clay, loam or sand; any pH SIZE: 1.5-2.5m in height, 1-1.5m spread The heart-shaped leaves of this colocasia variety are green when they first emerge, then turn a deep purple over time. These 60cm long leaves are held on stems of a deep blackish-purple hue. 3) C. esculenta ‘Blue Hawaii’ COMMON NAME(S): Taro ‘Blue Hawaii’ FOLIAGE: Green STEM: Purple SOIL PREFERENCE: Loam or clay; any pH SIZE: 1-1.5m in height, 0.5-1m spread This variety has large, light green leaves, with striking purple veins which stand out in sharp contrast, especially when the light shines through. This is another Royal Hawaiian colocasia. 4) C. esculenta ‘Burgundy Stem’ COMMON NAME(S): Taro ‘Burgundy Stem’ FOLIAGE: Green STEM: Pink and purple SOIL PREFERENCE: Loam or clay; any pH SIZE: 1-1.5m in height, 0.5-1m spread As the name suggests, this colocasia has deep, richly coloured burgundy stems, which stand out in contrast to the green leaves and give this plant a very tropical, exotic look. 5) C. esculenta ‘Coal Miner’ COMMON NAME(S): Taro ‘Coal Miner’ FOLIAGE: black and green STEM: Black SOIL PREFERENCE: Chalk, loam or clay; any pH SIZE: 1-1.5m in height, 1-1.5m spread This colocasia is also aptly named, as the large green leaves are deeply dusted with black as though they have been in a coal mine. This variety also has black stems, and the deeper greens and blacks of the leaves are punctuated by lighter green veins. ‘Coal Miner’ gets quite tall quite swiftly, and is said to be easy to overwinter successfully in the UK. 6) C. esculenta ‘Hawaiian Punch’ COMMON NAME(S): Taro ‘Hawaiian Punch’ FOLIAGE: Green STEM: Pink SOIL PREFERENCE: Loam or sand; any pH SIZE: 1-1.5m in height, 0.5-1m spread This elephant ear has bright red stems which bring drama and interest to its surroundings and gives the plant an exotic and tropical look. The stems are very vivid and stand out against the lush, green leaves. This is another fantastic taro in the Royal Hawaiian series of colocasia. 7) C. esculenta ‘Illustris’ COMMON NAME(S): Black caladium FOLIAGE: Purple and green SOIL PREFERENCE: Loam or sand; any pH SIZE: 1-1.5m in height, 0.5-1m spread This is another dramatic and attractive cultivar, which has large elephant ear-like leaves with a deep, russet bronze hue, and lime-green veins which stand out starkly against the rusty backdrop. 8) C. esculenta ‘Cranberry Stem’ COMMON NAME(S): Taro ‘Cranberry Stem’ FOLIAGE: Green, gold and yellow STEM: Cream and white SOIL PREFERENCE: Clay; any pH SIZE: 0.5-1.5m in height, 0.5-1m spread ‘Cranberry Stem’ has light green leaves and red stalks which can stand out well and look great alongside other darker colocasia cultivars. 9) C. esculenta ‘Maui Sunrise’ COMMON NAME(S): Taro ‘Maui Sunrise’ FOLIAGE: Green, cream and white STEM: Green SOIL PREFERENCE: Loam or clay; any pH SIZE: 0.5-1m in height, 0.5-1m spread This Royal Hawaiian colocasia has glossy deep green leaves, with creamy-white markings and veins. 10) C. esculenta ‘Metallica’ COMMON NAME(S): Taro ‘Metallica’ FOLIAGE: Blue, black, green and bronze STEM: Black SOIL PREFERENCE: Loam or clay; any pH SIZE: 1-1.5m in height, 0.5-1m spread This fairly new type is an unusual variety of colocasia and has velvety, large blue-green leaves with a metallic sheen, born on shiny, dark stems. 11) C. esculenta ‘Mojito’ COMMON NAME(S): Taro ‘Mojito’ FOLIAGE: Purple and green STEM: Purple and red SOIL PREFERENCE: Loam or sand; any pH SIZE: 1-1.5m in height, 0.5-1m spread Named after the popular drink, ‘Mojito’ is an introduction from the United States which has chartreuse green foliage, flecked with deep purple and black. 12) C. esculenta ‘Pharaoh’s Mask’ COMMON NAME(S): Taro ‘Pharaoh’s Mask’ FOLIAGE: Green and black STEM: Black SOIL PREFERENCE: Clay; any pH SIZE: 1-1.5m in height, 0.5-1m spread This rare cultivar has deep green heart-shaped leaves, with protruding veins in black, which give it an almost three-dimensional appearance. The veins begin to flatten and develop over time to give the final mask-like appearance. This was bred from a mutant form of another varietal called ‘Dark Star’ in the US. 13) C. esculenta ‘Aloha’ COMMON NAME(S): Taro ‘Aloha’ FOLIAGE: Purple, black and green STEM: Green SOIL PREFERENCE: Loam, sand or clay; any pH SIZE: 1-1.5m in height, 0.1-0.5m spread This Royal Hawaiian colocasia has glossy dark purple and dark green leaves, with contrasting light-green veins and light-greenish stems. 14) C. esculenta ‘Diamond Head’ COMMON NAME(S): Taro ‘Diamond Head’ FOLIAGE: Purple and black STEM: Purple SOIL PREFERENCE: Loam, clay or sand; any pH SIZE: 1-1.5m in height, 0.5-1m spread This Royal Hawaiian type of elephant ear has deep purple to black leaves, with a glossy finish, and deep burgundy red stems. 15) C. esculenta ‘White Lava’ COMMON NAME(S): Taro ‘White lava’ FOLIAGE: Green, cream and white STEM: Purple SOIL PREFERENCE: Loam or sand; any pH SIZE: 1-1.5m in height, 0.5-1m spread This colocasia, another in the Royal Hawaiian series, boasts dramatic white-cream flows of ‘lava’ down the centres of the green leaves, radiating out along the veins. The leaves also each have purple splotches where the leaf attaches to the stalk. These are, of course, just some of the many colocasia cultivars that you could consider growing either in your garden over the summer or as year-round houseplants here in the UK. References 1. Colocasia ROYAL HAWAIIAN ‘Black Coral.’ (2022, April 29). PlantHaven International. Retrieved March 14, 2023, from https://planthaven.com/plant/colocasia-black-coral/
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Separate Offsets To Grow New Colocasia Plants Argues Elizabeth Waddington
IN THIS GUIDE 1) Cutting The Tuber 2) Separating Offsets 3) Dividing The Main Corm Colocasia can be grown either as an ornamental plant or an edible crop and is prized for its large leaves, which add a tropical and exotic look to its surroundings. This is a tender plant, which can be grown outdoors in summer, but requires 21°C indoors over the winter months to remain fully evergreen. When grown outdoors in summer, the tubers are lifted and taken indoors for the winter, or, when grown in containers, taken indoors before the first frosts. Winter is the time to propagate the plants by division. To propagate colocasia by division of the tubers, there are 3 main options: Slice off the top couple of centimetres of the tuber, where the leaf stalks emerge, and replant this to grow into a new plant. Lift the plant and take off the small suckers of offset tubers around the main tuber, and grow these on to replant. You can also cut the main corm into small pieces, making sure that each one has an eye, and grow these sections on slowly for replanting. We explain each of these methods down below. Difficulty Medium Equipment Required Trowel, compost mix, pots, garden knife, propagator When To Take Cuttings Winter 1) Cutting The Tuber If you plan on harvesting taro at the end of the growing season, it is worthwhile cutting off the top couple of centimetres of the tubers, where the leaf stalks emerge, and replanting these sections in pots to grow on indoors over winter. Trim back the above-ground growth to leave just 15cm or so of the stalks. Pot these up into their own individual pots and keep them indoors at above 21°C until the following spring when they can potentially be planted back out into the garden. 2) Separating Offsets While this method will be a little slower, you can also take the offsets or smaller corms which form around the main one on the plant. These small offset corms can be potted up into their own containers and grown indoors, ideally in a heated propagator to provide the requisite temperatures and humidity, over the winter months. They can be planted out in the garden once they develop into larger independent plants. 3) Dividing The Main Corm The main corm can also be cut into pieces. As long as each portion of the corm is one with an ‘eye’, these pieces should eventually grow into new plants when appropriate growing conditions have been provided. This option is the most challenging, however, and it will take the longest to produce viable new plants, so one of the first two options is usually best for temperate climate gardeners. “My top tip for success, or rather minimising the chance of fungal problems on your plants, is practising good container and tool hygiene by disinfecting knives and pots before use,” shares Horticultural Consultant Dan Ori. “I would also recommend not having the compost too damp (if damp at all), and I would try to have good airflow around them as it starts to warm up in the spring.”
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Can You Grow Lobelia In Pots? Yes - Try These Cultivars With A Rich Growing Medium
IN THIS GUIDE Can You Grow Lobelia In Pots? Choosing A Container Choosing A Compost Potting Up Ongoing Container Care Lobelia is a popular choice for gardens in the UK. There are a number of different species and hybrid types that you could grow, with flowers in an enticing range of colours and tones. Of course, lobelias often make good border plants, but you might be wondering if you can grow these beautiful perennials in pots. Can You Grow Lobelia In Pots? Lobelia of many different types can make excellent plants for container gardens, as both annual and perennial types can be grown in pots. Some of the most popular for container gardening are Lobelia erinus cultivars. These half-hardy annuals are often trailing and are ideally suited to growing in pots or hanging containers. However, perennial types and their hybrids can also be grown in pots, as long as the right conditions are provided. I actually grew lobelia from seed last year and planted them out in one of my raised planters. You can see the results (at different stages of the plant’s flowering cycle) in my images below: As you can no doubt see – what starts off as just a few flowers slowly morphs into a flurry of blooms that lasts throughout summer. More tender types may sometimes be grown in containers so that they can be moved indoors or undercover during the coldest months. Choosing A Container When choosing a container, the first thing to decide is whether you will choose a hanging basket or a container that will sit on the ground. Trailing lobelia can look lovely when in an elevated container, and hanging containers can help you to make the most of your space. However, keeping up with watering needs may be a little more challenging. When you choose your container, remember that you want to provide moist but free-draining conditions for annual types, so adequate drainage holes are essential. However, some perennial types will like damper and less free-draining conditions, so make sure you think about which particular type of lobelia you have chosen to grow. Choosing A Compost The potting mix or growing medium that you choose will also depend in part on which type of lobelia you are growing. That being said, all lobelia will tend to appreciate a growing medium that is relatively rich in organic matter and capable of retaining moisture sufficiently well. A multi-purpose peat-free compost with some homemade compost or well-rotted manure added in will work well. “For plants like Lobelia, I make a water-retentive potting mix of one-third vermiculite, one-third coir and one-third good-quality peat-free compost,” shares Master Horticulturist Dan Ori. A loam-based option is generally best for perennial types that will remain in a container over a longer period of time. Potting Up When planting lobelias in pots, make sure that you place potted specimens at the same depth that they were planted at in their previous pot. Make a planting hole large enough to accommodate the root system or the plant or plants, place the plant into the hole and then firm back the growing medium around the outside. It is also a good idea to add mulch or organic matter over the surface of your containers in order to retain moisture, which is essential in lobelia cultivation. How Many Can You Plant Per Pot? How many lobelias you can plant per pot will obviously depend on the size of the container and, again, on the type of lobelia you have chosen to grow. It will also depend on whether you will be growing the lobelia alone or combining it with other plants in a mixed display. Annual lobelias can look great alongside a range of other annual bedding plants commonly grown in containers and hanging baskets. If you are growing annual lobelias in a container, each one should usually be placed around 10-15cm apart. Perennial types typically require space of around 30cm. Ongoing Container Care Place containers in full sun or partial shade depending on the variety and where you live. In hot summer areas, partial shade can be better for some types, helping them last for longer. Water well and regularly. Keeping up with water requirements is the most important thing when growing lobelia in pots. “It is likely you will need to water your containers at least once a day in the summer, so placing your containers in trays of water will often help – I use grow bag trays,” explains Dan. “If your containers dry out and plants start to wilt, water the surface of the pot slowly and then sink it into a bucket of water until submerged, when the air bubbles stop breaking the water surface. “The planting mix should be rehydrated, but be warned, as you may need help since the pots will get heavier as they soak up the water.” Remember, all lobelias like moist conditions, so never let the growing medium completely dry out. Remember that more regular watering is usually required for plants growing in pots or hanging baskets than for those growing in the ground. Mulch upon planting and replenish mulch around perennial plants each year. Feed with a potassium-rich organic liquid feed every couple of weeks through the blooming period for best results. Keep an eye out for slugs, snails and other pests and make sure to protect or move tender perennial types in winter.
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Artful And Architectural - Acanthus ‘Bear's Breeches’ Pointers From Gardeners
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Common Varieties How To Grow Bear’s Breeches Where To Grow Acanthus Ongoing Plant Care References Named for the oversized hairy leaves which adorn its robust upright stems, Acanthus mollis is said to resemble the hirsute hind quarters of a friendly bear. Indeed, it’s often prized more for its foliage than its flowers, though they too are a sight to behold when in full bloom. “I love anything architectural, so if I can’t squeeze in a towering tree fern, then I’m likely to try and get some Acanthus mollis into all of my smaller planting designs,” shares Garden Designer Joe Carey. That’s because the blossoms come with their own hooded leaf bract, which provides a pleasing purple contrast to the pinkish-white petals beneath. Artfully arranged on the stem, they are irresistible to bees and will enhance the biodiversity of your garden wherever they’re placed. Regardless of the reasons for its popularity, there’s no denying that Bear’s Breeches are a common fixture in bold garden displays across Britain. They work especially well when given pride of place at the front of a border, or else to bring architectural intrigue to an arrangement. Overview Botanical Name Acanthus mollis Common Name(s) Bear’s Breech / Bear’s Breeches Plant Type Herbaceous Perennial Native Area Mediterranean Hardiness Rating H6 Foliage Evergreen Flowers Tall spikes populated with white or pink flowers with purple hoods When To Plant April-May or September-October When To Prune March or September-October Acanthus mollis was a favourite cultivar in both Ancient Greece and its Roman counterpart, which is why it features in much art of both time periods.1 Most notably, it can be seen in abundance as decorative detailing atop Corinthian columns.2 For that reason, using it around your garden will effortlessly create a classical aesthetic for your display. It’s quite tall and showy, so it works best when it’s the centrepiece of a floral arrangement, or else grouped together in large clumps if you have the space available. What’s more, it also makes an excellent cut flower. Common Varieties Although there are 30 accepted species of A. mollis, a mere handful are commonly grown as garden plants and there isn’t a whole lot in the way of variation between them.3 Having said that, here are some of the more popular types in the UK: A. mollis ‘Whitewater’ Much like other types of bear’s breeches, ‘Whitewater’ is favoured for its intriguing foliage, striking blossoms and architectural prowess. However, it differs from its brethren in the white splashes found on its leaves, which are otherwise of deep green. A. ‘Summer Beauty’ This isn’t a true A. mollis, but rather a hybrid that is tall and imposing at full maturity. It bears giant, glossy but finely cut leaves that form expansive clumps, while the summer months yield beautiful white flowers in spikes, topped by the trademark purple bract. A. spinosus A close relative of Acanthus mollis, A. spinosus has the same classical frame but slight differences in its colourings. For starters, the leaves are of a more dramatic blue-green hue, while the hood above the white flowers is often of a slightly rustier tone than the standard purple. How To Grow Bear’s Breeches Bear’s breeches are most commonly bought from nurseries and garden centres for direct planting into the ground. They should be planted in spring or autumn to avoid excessive height or frozen terrain. It’s important to choose the site where you plant bear’s breeches wisely, since it’s very tricky to relocate it after the fact. Not only is it a sizeable specimen that’s unwieldy to dig up and move, but its roots penetrate deep beneath the earth and can be nearly impossible to eradicate completely. Leave any behind and they’ll develop into new plants in time. It’s also very possessive of space and will require a diameter of around 50cm on all sides to itself. It can be quite aggressive in pushing other plants out of the way, too, so many gardeners choose to plant it in bottomless containers to restrict the spread of its roots. Growing From Seed It is possible to cultivate bear’s breeches from seed, but they require plenty of time and warmth to germinate and establish themselves. For that reason, it’s best to begin them indoors and wait until their roots are developed. Soak the seeds in water for between 24-48 hours before planting to begin the germination process. Drain them and plant them immediately in a large pot at 1cm depth, covering them with loose soil and watering thoroughly. Once the roots have had time to establish, you can move your bear’s breeches outdoors. Of course, it is possible to plant them directly into the ground (this must be done in spring), but it’s trickier to ensure they germinate in the British climate. In any case, it will still take several years before they flower, regardless of how they are reared. Root Cuttings “You can propagate new plants successfully in autumn or spring from root cuttings or by slicing off an outer section of leaves with roots attached using a sharp spade,” advises Master Horticulturist Dan Ori. “This is often easier than seed propagation or digging up the plant to divide due to its deep root structure. “I have found cuttings and divisions are more successful in the spring as this can avoid the cold wet winter conditions and the high potential of powdery mildew or slug/snail attack without being able to put on growth to offset the challenges. “Growing from seed is worth trying as you will most likely get flower colour variations – I would harvest seeds in the autumn and sow in the spring.” Where To Grow Acanthus Soil & Aspect As mentioned above, Bear’s Breeches work best when they’re grown as the star of the show. They do best in fertile soil with good drainage qualities and appreciate full sun or part shade. They have excellent drought resistance and it doesn’t matter too much where you plant them in terms of aspect or soil quality, as long as you make sure you’re happy for them to stay there indefinitely. With that said, “I always avoid planting in wet shade due to the plants’ dislike of the conditions and susceptibility to powdery mildew,” says Dan Ori. “In my opinion, Acanthus is one of the best plants you can use in a dry sunny herbaceous border.” Temperature With RHS hardiness ratings of H6 or more, this plant is more than capable of holding its own against the British winter. In fact, the colder temperatures in December, January and February are actually what prevents them from becoming invasive in many gardens. Ongoing Plant Care As resilient plants, bear’s breeches don’t require too much in the way of ongoing maintenance. Only minimal upkeep is needed, including the following: Light Bear’s breeches appreciate direct sunlight but don’t depend on it for their survival. For that reason, they’ll thrive impressively in part shade and even hold their own in full shade, though you might notice that blooms are not as impressive. Watering Acanthus is a thirsty plant and demands frequent watering. If neglected, it may wilt quite dramatically. Feeding & Fertilising Aside from enriching the initial hole in which bear’s breeches are planted with rotted manure or another organic fertiliser, they shouldn’t require feeding. Use a balanced fertiliser only if the plant shows signs of flagging. Common Problems Given that the foliage is the main selling point of bear’s breeches, protecting the leaves from slugs, snails and other critters is imperative. Equally, powdery mildew and bacterial leaf spot and other fungal diseases can be an issue. Avoid those problems with organic fungicides, salts and proper circulation of air. Pruning Stems should be cut back and disposed of after flowering, while foliage should be neatened up in springtime. Other than that, no pruning is needed unless the clumps start to become congested. Propagating Bear’s breeches can easily be propagated by digging the plant up, splitting its roots with a spade and planting cuttings in potting composts. Once established, they can be transplanted elsewhere in the garden. Just remember, however, that bear’s breeches do spread freely via the use of underground runners, so plant them in multiple positions in your garden at your peril. Companion Planting As alluded, bear’s britches are ostentatious plants which might detract from the splendour of others growing in the garden. For that reason, you might wish to make them a standalone centrepiece, or else pair them with shrubs, bushes or hedges that aren’t as showy. That being said, they can form part of a striking display alongside other bold and bright perennials. Crocosmia Airy options like crocosmia and gaura can create an audacious partnership with bear’s breeches that’s guaranteed to turn heads. References 1. Minissale, P., Magro, V., & Raimondo, F. (2019). Why did Acanthus mollis, native to West Mediterranean, become a so relevant artistic and symbolic element arising from ancient Greece? Flora Mediterranea, 29, 119–128. https://doi.org/10.7320/flmedit29.119 2. The Editors of Encyclopaedia Britannica. (1998, July 20). Acanthus. Encyclopedia Britannica. Retrieved March 9, 2023, from https://www.britannica.com/art/acanthus-ornamental-motif 3. Acanthus L. (n.d.). Kew Royal Botanic Gardens. Retrieved March 9, 2023, from https://powo.science.kew.org/taxon/urn:lsid:ipni.org:names:344-1
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These Mistakes Might Cause Your Phormium Leaves To Turn Brown Or Yellow
IN THIS GUIDE 1) Overwatering 2) Nutrient Deficiencies 3) Restricted Roots 4) Leaf Spot 5) Frost Damage 6) Leaf-Yellow Disease References Phormiums are generally relatively easy plants to grow, whether grown in the ground or in containers. However, you may notice that the leaves are either turning brown or yellow, which is a common sign that the plants are not happy. There can be a number of common problems that lead to these issues. Some common problems that cause brown leaves are: Overwatering or waterlogged soil Nutrient deficiencies The phormium needs repotting Phormium leaf spot And yellow leaves may be caused by: Frost damage Leaf-yellow bacterial infection We explore these problems and what you can do about them below. 1) Overwatering Leaves turning brown can be a sign that the plant has received too much water. These are relatively drought-tolerant plants, but they cannot tolerate waterlogged soil. Make sure that water can drain away freely and take care not to water too much. Only water when the top few centimetres of the soil or growing medium is dry. 2) Nutrient Deficiencies Leaves turning brown around the edges can also be a sign that the phormium is not receiving enough nitrogen. Make sure that the soil is nutrient-rich and, if growing your phormium in a container, feed the plant with a seaweed feed or a compost tea to ensure that it gets the nutrients that it needs. 3) Restricted Roots The plant may also develop brown leaves as a sign of stress because it needs dividing or repotting. Simply repot into a bigger pot with sufficient compost for the plant. 4) Leaf Spot Unfortunately, brown leaves can also be a sign of a fungal infection, leaf spot, which is caused by a fungal pathogen. If this is the issue, the brown will be in patches on the leaves, and these may have a greyish hue or purplish edges. If you spot this issue, cut off the affected leaves as soon as possible to prevent the spread of this infection. 5) Frost Damage Yellow leaves can sometimes be caused by frost damage. These plants can cope with winter temperatures down to around -5-10°C in a sheltered spot, but they are not suitable for areas where there are long cold spells in winter. Leaves can also tear and tatter in strong winds, so a sheltered position is important, especially in areas where more extreme weather conditions might be expected. “Phormium makes fantastic coastal plants, but after a rough winter, they can look a little worse for wear,” shares Horticultural Consultant Colin Skelly. “You can prune out the worst of the torn leaves from the base but don’t exceed a third or you’ll hinder the ability of the plant to regenerate.” Phormium leaves that have been damaged by frost can discolour and become soft and mushy. Although the plant may wilt significantly and can even look dead, it will often come back if you care for it well. If your plant has been frost damaged, cut off the dead foliage with a sharp pair of gardening scissors or secateurs. Give it a feed, and give it some time, and new growth may well emerge. 6) Leaf-Yellow Disease Another problem that causes yellow leaves is leaf-yellow disease, which is caused by a bacterial pathogen called Phytoplasma.1 If infected, the plant can become stunted, and the bacteria can kill off the rhizome. The leaves will tend to turn yellow-orange in colour and will wilt until eventually, the plant will likely die. Remove infected plants carefully to prevent the spread of this problem in your garden. Though the issues above can arise, it is still the case that phormiums tend to be relatively low-maintenance and easy plants for UK gardens. They don’t usually have a range of issues and can be a good choice for busy gardeners. References 1. Marcone, C. (2011). Candidatus Phytoplasma asteris (yellow disease phytoplasmas). CABI Compendium. https://doi.org/10.1079/cabicompendium.7642
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Divide Phormium Regularly To 'Maintain A Healthy, Vigorous Plant' Says Colin Skelly
IN THIS GUIDE 1) Lift Existing Plant 2) Divide Into Sections 3) Replant The Divisions Phormiums are attractive and dramatic foliage plants that can add architectural interest and colour to your garden. Generally speaking, they are easy, relatively low-maintenance, and straightforward plants to grow. One job you will need to think about if you successfully grow phormiums in your garden is lifting and dividing your mature plants. There are two reasons to lift and divide phormiums. The first reason is to tackle a plant that has become too large to prevent overcrowding or congestion, which can cause a range of issues for these plants. “I have found that a lot of large Phormium tenax which have not been divided tend to accumulate brambles near their centre that are hard to remove,” shares Colin Skelly, a Master Horticulturist. “Regular division will help to maintain a healthy, vigorous plant but also provide the opportunity to get to the roots of any perennial weeds.” The second reason to lift and divide phormium is to obtain new plants from an existing specimen, as this is by far the easiest way to propagate these plants. To lift and divide a phormium plant: Lift the existing phormium from the ground using a spade, or remove it from its pot. Pull or cut apart the plant to create sections with fans of leaves leaving a section of root attached. Replant or pot up the divisions. See more information on each of these steps below. Difficulty Easy Equipment Required Mature phormium and a spade When To Divide Spring 1) Lift Existing Plant Extricate the phormium from its existing position. Either gently ease it up out of the soil with a spade, or remove it from its pot. Shake off any excess soil so that you can see things clearly. 2) Divide Into Sections Next, you need to decide whether you just want to remove a little of the plant to make the existing plant smaller before repotting it, or whether you would like to make a number of smaller divisions to obtain new phormiums for your garden. You can make as many divisions as you wish, as long as each one has a fan of leaves and some root beneath. The larger your divisions are, the more quickly they will re-establish. Larger divisions can be replanted right away into your garden. Smaller divisions are best potted up and then planted out once established. 3) Replant The Divisions Remember, phormiums like a position in full sun, though many can also cope with partial shade. They also need free-draining conditions. Replant or pot up your divisions, watering well but making sure that excess water drains away. Soon, these new divisions should be growing well and rivalling the original plant.
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