Growing
Garden Pea Plants Over 80cm Will Need To Use One Of These Support Methods
IN THIS GUIDE Method 1: Netting Method 2: Staking Method 3: Free-Standing Support Dwarf varieties of Garden Peas need little to no support, but bushy ones may or may not depending on their respective habits and sizes, and tallish climbing vines really should be supported. As a guideline, varieties that grow to less than 50cm should not require much support, while those that rise to 80cm and above should be supported. Anything in between is a judgement call. We outline three methods by which you can support your Garden Pea plants. Method 1: Netting You can find several kinds and designs of netting identified as ‘Trellis Netting,’ ‘Vine Netting,’ or ‘Netting Support for Vines.’ This type of netting should be hung, vertically, quite close to the plant. It may be hung from the roof’s rafters, off a garden cabana, or on a simple for-purpose frame. “You could make a rectangular frame with legs by tying four canes together tightly,” suggests Horticultural Consultant Peter Lickorish. We suggest you set up your netting at any point from the time you sow Garden Peas seeds to when the little plants get to be about 20cm in height. As the little plants grow, they will readily start to climb via their tendrils up the netting and be supported by it, avoiding the need to tie them in. Method 2: Staking You can support vines with four bamboo canes or with three. If you use four canes then they should be arranged in the form of a square that will enclose the plant. Drive the canes into the ground so that they are firmly set. Each side should measure about half the eventual spread of that variety. If you use three canes then fuse, nail, tie or staple them together at one end with the other ends splayed outward. The objective is to make a frame like an elongated triangle-based pyramid; a frame resembling a three-sided letter ‘A’. Place this over the spot where the plant will emerge and push the canes into the ground. In each case you may wet the soil and pack it around the base of the canes to ensure firmness and rigidity. In either case tie twine tightly around the lower parts of the framework, and soon after the seedlings emerge, train them on the twine if necessary though their tendrils will likely ‘find’ the supports. Thereafter, tie twine, tightly, all the way up the framework every 20cm or so. If the twine slips, make lateral notches in the canes. We strongly recommend against driving canes or stakes close to even a growing plant (let alone a mature one) – doing so may damage or sever the roots. Canes may be driven into the ground at the time of sowing the seeds or soon thereafter. If transplanting, place supports in the ground immediately thereafter. You will know where you can insert the canes such that they are away from the very narrow root system. “For dwarf varieties, some support is still a good idea to stop the plants from becoming a tangled mess,” says Peter. “Driving lengths of woody prunings, that are around 50cm long, into the ground gives a loose framework. “If these stems have branches, even better, as peas can attach to these too.” Method 3: Free-Standing Support You can set up a free-standing trelliswork support at any time in the plant’s lifecycle so long as the support is not fully enclosed and has an open design. An arched pergola is a very good option. One person should simply lift up the vine, which may even be overgrown, while another sets the support in place after which the vine can be draped on the support. “Supports may have their own feet or spikes to drive in the ground, or a cane can be threaded through alternate sides of a flexible trellis or mesh at 1m intervals,” Peter adds. The plant’s tendrils will happily grip the trelliswork in short order. Wet the soil under the support and cake some mud around it to firm it up. Such a support should also be sufficiently heavy and have a low centre of gravity. Otherwise, when the free-standing support is covered by a bushy climber, a blustery wind can blow it over. Therefore, if necessary, tie it down or weigh it down. U-shaped pegs can be driven in along the bottom row of trellis for support.
Learn more
Use These Varieties If You're Container Growing Beetroot Says Peter Lickorish
IN THIS GUIDE Can You Grow Beetroot In Pots? Choosing Containers Compost For Beetroot Potting Up & Transplanting Caring For Potted Beetroot Plants Beetroot is a delicious root vegetable that probably deserves more recognition than it gets. It can be boiled and tossed in cold salads, cooked in pot roasts, and stewed and pickled. And – of course – there’s borscht. But that’s only the root vegetable – actually, Beetroot is a ‘two for the price of one’ veggie. The leaves are tasty and these leafy greens too can be tossed in salads, cooked like spinach, or serve as an ingredient in stir-fries. Beetroots have been grown for many centuries in cottage gardens in Central and Eastern Europe. In comparison, this root veggie has made its appearance relatively recently in British gardens. Recently or not-so-recently, we do know that Beetroots are grown in many a British garden, but one question remains. Can You Grow Beetroot In Pots? Yes – Beetroot is grown very successfully in pots. Though persons who have a garden of their own may not care whether or not Beetroot can be grown in pots, if you live in a townhome or a high-rise flat and would like your own ‘garden fresh’ beetroot, we lay out how you can grow this earthy, mouth-watering root vegetable on your patio or balcony. Choosing Containers The pot should be at least 20cm deep. A standard 10-litre pot is 22.5cm deep so this is the smallest size you should choose. A 15-litre pot that is 30cm deep would be advisable. That said, you can grow small cultivars, especially if you will harvest them early as ‘baby beets,’ in containers even smaller than 10-litre ones. A planter or a trough is an excellent container to grow beetroots in as long as it is at least 20cm deep. Pot or planter, the container should have drainage holes. Just as you need to choose a container of the right size, where root vegetables are concerned you also need to choose a cultivar that is suitable for container growing. ‘Red Ace’, ‘Kestrel’, ‘Avalanche’, and ‘Moulin Rouge’ are the best bets for beginning gardeners who would like to grow Beetroot in containers, and they are especially good choices when you want to grow Beetroot in a less-than-adequate container. Aim for rounded and not cylindrical varieties. Compost For Beetroot Though you can prepare your own soil, a potting compost is the hassle-free way to grow Beetroot in containers. John Innes No 3 mixed with either Miracle-Gro Nature’s Care or Westland Multi-Purpose Compost is a good choice. If you prefer making your own soil, to grow Beetroots in containers start with a base of sandy, chalky soil, add grit to assure good drainage, and mix in well-rotted cattle manure, well-rotted chicken manure, and organic compost in about equal quantities. Regardless of whether you make your own soil or use a branded compost, the important points are that the soil must be free draining, it should be light and friable, and of a pH level in the slightly acidic range, i.e. 6.1-6.5. Though a pH anywhere from 5.5-7.0 is certainly acceptable. Potting Up & Transplanting Potting up or transplanting beetroot is to be avoided like the plague – well, not quite but you get the point. Beetroot, like many root veggies, are averse to being potted up or transplanted. Simply sow the seeds in a container of the proper size to begin with. “Pots usually have to earn their keep in small spaces,” shares Peter. “For maximum decorative impact, you could combine the dark red leaves of ‘Morello’ with the yellow-touched leaves of ‘Boldor’.” How Many Can You Plant Per Pot? First, bear in mind that except for a few relatively recent cultivars, most Beetroot cultivars ‘seeds’ contain 3 or 4 real seeds per ‘seed’. This is because Beetroot seeds are multigerm seeds, which is where each ‘seed’ contains multiple embryos. You’ll get perhaps 3 times as many plants as seeds sown. The number to sow also depends on the size of the pot and on what you want from your crop. “If the quantity is the goal, sow thinly across the top of the pot and cover with a layer of compost around 2cm deep,” shares Peter Lickorish, a Lecturer in Horticulture with 5 years of professional experience. “You’ll get a good crop of seedlings and you can thin these to a third, once they’re 3cm high, washing and eating the thinnings.” “The rest can be harvested later as baby beets, and a couple left behind can develop into golf-ball size roots.” If aiming for larger roots, we suggest that you grow two, perhaps three, Beetroot plants per pot of 15 or 20 litres volume, for which you would sow three seeds in a triangle shape. If the seeds are multigerm, you would thin them to one plant per seed, after germination. If you intend to use a rectangular planter or trough you can plant multiple seeds and grow multiple plants, albeit in a single row. As a rule of thumb, divide the length of the planter or trough in centimetres by 10, rounding down or up, and subtract 1 from the result. That is how many larger Beetroots you can grow in that planter. Caring For Potted Beetroot Plants Keep your containers in a spot where they will enjoy full sun – the more, the better, where Beetroots are concerned. Water seeds and seedlings every day with a watering can with a rose. As the plants grow, the frequency of watering to every two or three days. Keep the soil moist but do not let it get waterlogged – if the top 2-3cm of soil has dried out, it is time to water. Be on the lookout for weeds and pull them up as soon as you spot them. “I find that aiming for young or baby beets gets the most productivity out of the container, spreading the harvest,” adds Peter. “You could even pair them with salad onions in a larger container.” You may hear that Beetroots benefit from a high-phosphorus fertiliser such as bonemeal and this is correct, but this will not be easy to apply in the correct volume in containers and you run the risk of burning the roots. The easy and safe option is to apply a balanced liquid fertiliser once just after the seeds have sprouted and then again after about four weeks. Miracle-Gro Performance Organics Fruit & Veg in liquid form is a good bet; apply it according to the directions on the label.
Learn more
Gardeners Share Why It's Best To Sow Beetroot Seeds Directly In Open Ground
IN THIS GUIDE 1) Prepare The Soil 2) Scarify The Seeds 3) Sow The Seeds 4) Water The Seeds And Seedlings 5) Protect The Seedlings Flavourful Beetroot is among the most rewarding vegetables you can grow in your garden. You will reap an even richer reward if you go about it correctly. However, beetroot, along with some other vegetables, has a deserved reputation for being averse to being transplanted. Sowing beetroot seeds in trays and then transplanting the seedlings into open ground can be a self-defeating exercise – meaning it is often best to sow Beetroot seeds directly in open ground. Difficulty Medium Equipment Required Seeds, spade, gloves When To Sow April – July Planting Aspect Full Sun / Part Shade Beetroot seeds rather look like knurly husks; somewhat resembling American mixed-grain cereal. The vast majority of Beetroot varieties’ ‘seed’ actually contains three or four seeds, while a few newer cultivars have monogerm seeds. These have only one actual seed – technically embryo – per seed. Beetroot needs soil that drains very well but is rich and fertile. If your garden soil does not drain well, improve drainage with perlite, grit, a raised bed, or some combination of these. You can sow Beetroot by following these steps. Keep in mind that these steps need not be performed only once a season. Though Beetroots are admittedly best sown in mid-spring and early autumn, they are amenable to successional sowing in most parts of the UK so feel free to sow a handful of seeds right from April through July every fortnight to enjoy a harvest clear from June into October. Grow beetroot from seed by following these five simple steps: Prepare the soil Scarify the seeds Sow the seeds Water the seeds and seedlings Protect the seedlings This process is explained in more depth below. 1) Prepare The Soil Choose a spot of ground in full sun or partial shade. If you live in one of the balmier regions of the UK and plan to grow Beetroots through the summer, you need a partial shade location. The ground should be cleared of stones, tree roots, and such. Prepare the ground a few days to a few weeks before you intend to sow the seeds. Cultivate the ground to a depth of a good 30cm, breaking up any large lumps. If the ground does not drain very well, you have a choice of mixing in perlite or grit, especially at the lower strata, or sowing in ridges or making a raised bed, or both. Mix in well-rotted chicken manure and/or organic compost at about a 20% ratio to the garden soil, and add smaller quantities of a balanced granular fertiliser. The soil should not be densely packed. The optimal soil pH level is slightly acidic, with a pH ranging from 6.1-6.5, though there is certainly some margin at each end. 2) Scarify The Seeds Start sowing Beetroot seeds when the soil temperature is 8°C or more which is usually some time in April. Scarifying can improve the germination rates of beetroot. Though you can cut into the hard outer husk or abrade it with sandpaper, soaking is the easiest way to go about it. Simply fill a jar with lukewarm water and soak the seeds for around an hour before sowing. 3) Sow The Seeds Sow the seeds 8-10cm apart at a depth of 2-3cm. You can pull a cane or a hoe through the soil to make a shallow drill for sowing. Keep in mind that each seed of a multigerm cultivar will likely give rise to more than one plant. Rows should be spaced at about 30cm. Loosely cover the seeds by raking soil over the top. Moderately water the freshly-planted seeds. If it rains then that may be all the water they need. Seeds should germinate in 10-14 days but they may take as little as one week (or as many as three). 4) Water The Seeds And Seedlings Watering frequency will depend on the season and rainfall. Give the seeds or young plants a light watering if it has not rained for a week, otherwise rainwater should suffice. In hot and dry weather, increase the frequency of watering even up to every two days. Do not let the soil get dry. 5) Protect The Seedlings Deer, rabbits, and other small animals love Beetroot greens. If you anticipate that your plants are under threat, cover them with a suitably spaced garden mesh or even wire netting. However, sunlight should get through the protective barrier. When the plants are of sufficient size, say 3cm, thin them so that you are left with one plant per seed – that is one plant every 8-10cm. “There are ways of squeezing in an extra-early crop, by bringing your sowing date forward a month,” adds Peter Lickorish, a Horticulture Lecturer. “This can be done by using black membrane to cover soil before sowing can raise the temperature slightly and the ground can be fleeced after sowing.”
Learn more
Emily Cupit Shares Feeding And Watering Tips For Thriving Carrot Plants
IN THIS GUIDE Watering Carrots Feeding Carrots Easy to grow and flavoursome, carrots have been a long-term favourite for home growers and vegetable patches. Part of the Apiaceae family, Daucus carota, or carrots as we know them, originate from the Middle East and hence their preference for full sun and a free-draining growing medium. When it comes to growing carrots, it can be easy to forget about them as they don’t require much looking after. However, as with all other vegetables, they do need a certain amount of moisture and some essential nutrients to grow well. As explained in more depth below. Watering Carrots Carrots are almost drought-resistant, making them easy to care for over the summer months. Thriving in a sunny spot in light soil, carrots will cope with a certain amount of neglect. However, they do require watering and especially during long dry spells. A thorough and deep watering once every two days or so (depending on the weather) should suffice. If you are unsure if they need more moisture or not, check the soil an inch or two down and if it is dry then water. Carrots grow well in pots, containers and raised beds, yet it is good to note that if grown this way and especially in smaller containers, they will need watering more frequently than those grown directly in the soil. Feeding Carrots Carrots, like a lot of root crops, are light feeders and will grow well in all but the poorest of soils. Although, to get the best-sized and tastiest carrots, they do require relatively fertile soil. Before sowing, it is advisable to prepare the ground by removing any weeds and stones and evenly adding either some well-rotted manure, compost, bonemeal or a slow-release balanced granular fertiliser, to provide the necessary nutrients for the growing season ahead. However, if you do decide to improve the soil with manure or compost, it is recommended to do this a few months ahead of sowing. This will allow the soil some time to settle and for the organic matter to break down further, as high levels of nitrogen, which fresh manure contains, can cause the carrots to fork. “My first port of call when selecting a fertiliser is to look at the N-P-K ratio on the back of the packet,” explains Master Horticulturist Peter Lickorish. “This tells you the relative proportions of Nitrogen, Phosphorus and Potassium (or Kalium) the product contains. “For carrots, Nitrogen is not especially important, so look for higher numbers for Phosphorus (as found in bonemeal) or Potassium. “Fish, blood and bone fertiliser has a ratio of Nitrogen: Phosphorus: Potassium of around 3:9:3, which is a good blend for carrots.”
Learn more
This Is How Emily Cupit Grows Carrots In Containers - 'The Crucial Factor Is The Depth'
IN THIS GUIDE Are Carrots Container Suitable? Container Sizes Choosing Compost Sowing Carrots In Pots Caring For Pot-Grown Carrot Plants Carrots are a home growers’ favourite and for good reason: they come in an array of colours and taste delicious. Being easy to grow and care for, they also grow well in pots or containers making them ideal if your growing space is limited. Are Carrots Container Suitable? Carrots can grow well in pots or containers, with the only limiting factor being the size and depth of the container. When it comes to choosing carrots to grow in containers, it can be advisable to pick a cultivar that produces a shorter and more round root, than a long thin one. Container Sizes Carrots will grow well in any shape container, whether a long thin trough or a round pot. The crucial factor is the depth, which to achieve a good crop, needs to be 30cm deep for rounded roots and 45cm for longer rooting cultivars. The containers’ material is not important, as carrots seem to grow as well in old dustbins as a large terracotta pot. However, multiple drainage holes must be already present or made by hand prior to using, as carrots require a free-draining soil. Choosing Compost Carrots prefer a free draining and light soil, that is stone free. A benefit of growing carrots in pots is that the soil can be chosen to suit them, which can be especially handy if you garden on stony soil. A peat-free multi-purpose compost is ideal, to which some sand or vermiculite can be added to lighten the mix if required. However, don’t be tempted to add some manure to the compost mix to help them grow, as this may encourage the carrots to produce side roots and end up forking. “There’s a tradition of using spent or previously used compost to grow carrots in,” shares Peter Lickorish, a Master Horticulturist and Lecturer in Horticulture. “It’s a good idea, as carrot roots elongate themselves looking for nutrients, so a rich compost will not encourage this and could make for very leafy plants. “They do still need some nutrients though, especially phosphorus, so a light addition of blood, fish and bone or similar before sowing would be useful.” Sowing Carrots In Pots Carrots don’t take well to being transplanted which is why they tend to be always grown from seed. Typically, carrots are sown from spring until mid-summer. However, earlier varieties can be sown as early as February, but only as long as they are given some frost protection, such as a layer of fleece or under a cloche. Carrot seed is small and needs to be sown thinly at a depth of 1cm. This can either be done by individually planting seeds at a spacing of 5cm apart and covering over, or thinly broadcast sowing and covering with a thin layer of compost and gently watering in with a rose to avoid displacing the seeds. As tempting as it is, try not to sow more than the recommended number of seeds for the pot’s size, as the extras will only need to be thinned out later down the line. Carrot seeds generally take 2–3 weeks to germinate, during which the soil should be kept moist. Carrots store well, however, to avoid a glut and for carrots all season long, sowings can be successionally sown every 2–3 weeks. How Many Can You Plant Per Pot? Carrots, if over-sown, will need to be thinned to an approximate final spacing of 5–7cm to allow them mature to a good size. Therefore, the only limit to a carrot crop is the size of the container. “As a guide, a 30cm diameter container could grow around 8 larger carrots or lots more if you aim for tender baby carrots,” says Peter. “Sowing more thickly and gradually harvesting baby carrots may give a better yield than aiming for more mature roots.” Caring For Pot-Grown Carrot Plants Carrots are a relatively drought-resistant crop and are easy to care for and generally only require to be kept free from weeds and watered occasionally. Keeping the carrots’ container weed free will stop the weeds from competing with the carrots and give them space to mature. Carrots don’t need to be watered that often, but they do require a thorough watering during hot and dry spells and they will need more frequent watering than those grown directly in the soil. “A deeper container will dry out more slowly,” adds Peter. Carrots only need relatively fertile soil to grow in and if sown into fresh compost each year should not need any further fertiliser applied during the growing season. Carrot root fly can be a real issue when growing carrots, as the flies are attracted to the smell of the foliage when it is crushed during thinning and handling. The flies then lay their eggs on the soil, which subsequently turn into larvae and eat the carrot crop underground. To deter any carrot fly from eating your crop, there are some preventative measures that can be put in place. These include resistant cultivars being chosen, growing alliums nearby which can mask the carrots’ scent and a fleece barrier 90-100cm tall placed around the container. Depending on the variety, carrots can be harvested 3–4 months after sowing, when they are a suitable size. If you are unsure if they are ready to pick, lifting a few alternate carrots can help determine their current size and provide more space for the others to grow on if necessary. However, it is good to be aware that leaving carrots in the soil for too long can lead to them turning slightly woody and less flavoursome.
Learn more
Did You Know You Can Harvest Your Beetroot At Different Stages? These Gardeners Show How
IN THIS GUIDE How To Harvest Beetroot When To Harvest Beetroot Harvesting Beetroot Leaves Harvesting Baby Beetroot Harvesting Mature Beetroot Storing Beetroot Beetroot is a wonderful crop for home growing and a beetroot harvest can be very rewarding. But how and when is it harvested? Beetroot is a crop which can offer a lot – if you know what yields are offered by these plants, when to obtain those yields and how they can be used. Below is some information to help you understand how to harvest your beetroot and the various stages at which you can do so. How To Harvest Beetroot Many beetroots can simply be harvested by grasping the plants where the leaves meet the top of the root, and lifting them from the soil. Difficulty Easy Equipment Required None When To Harvest Late Spring, Summer, Mid-Autumn While carrots or parsnips, their longer roots can often break off below the soil if you try to tug them up by hand, but with round beetroots, this is not usually a problem unless the soil is heavy or rather compacted. If you are having trouble lifting the beetroots by hand, watering a day or so before you harvest may help. You can also simply ease them out of the soil as you would carrots or other root crops with a garden fork. Insert the fork into the soil close to (but not too close to) the beetroots and lever the soil and beetroots upwards. The fork will loosen the soil and you can then simply lift the beetroots from the ground. If you plan to use the beetroots right away, you can shake or knock off excess soil, then give them a wash. If you plan on storing your beetroots for later use, then it is best not to wash them. Simply knock off loose dirt and place them in sand or sawdust in a root cellar or other suitable storage space, washing them only when you are about to use them. When To Harvest Beetroot Understanding what you can harvest and when is important in making the most of your garden. Beetroots are interesting because they can provide harvests of both leaves and roots, and can be harvested at a series of stages and over a fairly long period. Harvesting Beetroot Leaves Before the roots of your beetroots are ready to harvest, you can snip off the occasional leaf to use. Just make sure that you take only individual leaves, and take these sparingly, so that you do not overly compromise the growth of the root, which is the main harvest of these plants. Harvesting Baby Beetroot Beetroot is a crop that can be harvested over a relatively long period. When exactly you will harvest your beetroot will depend on where you live, and when your crop was planted. The important thing to understand is that beetroot do not need to be fully mature to be harvested. In fact, they can often taste much better when harvested while they are still rather small. Thinning Rows The first time that you might harvest beetroots is while thinning rows. You might remove some smaller beetroots to allow the remaining plants to continue growing to produce larger roots. “There is a tradition for harvesting every other root at golf ball size, and the rest at cricket ball size, assuming this is the shape of your variety,” shares Master Horticulturist Peter Lickorish. These small baby beetroot might not have reached their full potential in terms of size, but for me, these little beetroots are the tastiest beetroots of all. They are great grated into coleslaws or salads, but can be used in a range of different ways. These baby beetroot will be around the size of a golf ball, or perhaps a little smaller. Harvesting Mature Beetroot Most beetroots however, are harvested when the roots are between golf ball and cricket ball size. If you leave them to grow much larger than that, they tend to become woodier and will not usually taste as good. Globe beetroot types will typically be ready to harvest around 8-10 weeks after planting, while longer cylindrical beetroots can take nearly double the length of time. You should be able to see quite easily how large your beetroot has grown, since by the time they are mature, quite a lot of the root is visible above the soil surface. Just remember, especially when beetroot are reaching maturity in the summer, that bigger is not always better – do not leave it too long before you harvest your mature beetroot. Successional Sowing Successional sowing earlier in the year would mean that you are able to harvest beetroots over quite a long period, rather than having a glut that must be preserved or used up all at once. If you did sow successionally, you may have some later sown beetroots still in the ground as winter approaches. Winter Harvesting One other interesting thing to note is that you do not necessarily have to harvest your beetroot crop before winter arrives. With a little protection from cloches, straw or a row cover, later sown beetroot can be left in the ground and harvested as and when you need them, through to the following March. Beetroots can even taste slightly sweeter after they have been exposed to a few frosts. Peels When harvesting beetroots, there is one final yield to consider. Once the roots have been harvested, if the peels are not being used in a recipe, these can be put to one side. These peelings can be used in a vegetable stock with other scraps and peelings. But they can also, interestingly, be used to make a vibrant plant-based, natural and edible dye or food colouring. Storing Beetroot “Don’t feel like you have to pull up all your crops at once,” explains Sara Venn from Edible Bristol. “If you have plants like beetroots, leave them in the soil or find a pickling recipe. You can leave root crops until the end of the season in the ground.” Remember, for storage you will cut off the foliage of the plants. But fresh beetroot leaves should not be relegated to the compost heap, since these are also a useful yield. Beetroot leaves are also an edible part of the plant – similar to chard. They can be used as you would use chard or other cooked greens and are another addition to your home-grown diet. So take off good leaves and use them right away, or freeze them or preserve them in some other way for later use. “The roots themselves must not be allowed to shrivel, so place them in slightly moist sand in the dark and ideally keep them frost-free,” shares Peter. “Alternatively, pickle them or peel off the skin, cut them up and freeze them for up to a year. “If you want winter harvests, but need your beds back, there’s another way of storing beetroots outdoors, called a clamp. “This involves storing a pyramid shaped pile of beetroots, with the top growth trimmed off, on a bed of a loose material like straw. “The height of the pile can be up to 1m, is covered with straw and then smoothed soil to protect from frost damage and allow water run-off. “A drainage trench should be dug around the clamp, and excess water can also escape through the exposed straw.” Beetroot is a plant that offers a lot – by understanding secondary yields, harvesting correctly (and at the right times) you can really make the most of this crop.
Learn more
How To Sow Swiss Chard Directly Outdoors (Or Under Cover If Growing In Autumn)
IN THIS GUIDE When To Sow Swiss Chard Seeds 1) Harvesting Chard Seeds 2) Fill Shallow Pots 3) Sow Seeds 4) Growing On Swiss chard, or leaf beet as it is commonly known, is a biennial vegetable that is best eaten in its first year of growth. Growing Swiss Chard from seed is an easy process and can be sown direct or undercover to plant out later, depending on your requirements. Difficulty Easy Equipment Required Module or seed tray, compost, rake (if sowing direct) When To Sow March – September When To Plant Out April – September Watch this short video from Emily Cupit where she sows Swiss Chard in her garden at home: Here’s a simple process for growing Swiss chard from seed: Harvest seeds from the pods of existing plants, or purchase seeds from your chosen retailer. Prepare the soil or fill shallow pots with a peat-free growing medium. Sow seeds at a depth of 2cm. Growing on the seedlings. This process is explained in more depth below: When To Sow Swiss Chard Seeds Swiss chard seed can be sown directly into the soil from spring until summer or in an unheated greenhouse from a little earlier. It can also be sown under cover in the autumn to crop the following year. 1) Harvesting Chard Seeds Swiss chard seeds can be collected and stored from plants in their second year of growth, to save until spring to sow. “I don’t typically save chard seeds as I remove the crop at the end of the season to prepare for next season’s sowings,” says Horticultural Consultant Colin Skelly. “With a small vegetable garden, I prefer to use the space to grow as many crops as possible in succession. I, therefore, tend to rely on purchasing seeds unless they can be harvested in the first year (such as tomatoes).” To collect the seeds, allow the seed stalks to dry and wait until the seeds are completely brown before harvesting and storing in a cool, dark and dry environment. 2) Fill Shallow Pots From spring onwards, once the ground is workable and has warmed up a little, the sowing area can be prepared by raking to a fine tilth. Chard prefers a fertile soil, so adding some well-rotted manure or garden compost to the soil the previous season can be beneficial. If sowing undercover, module or seed trays can be filled with a peat-free multi-purpose compost ready for sowing. 3) Sow Seeds Swiss chard seeds are fairly large and easy to handle making them a good plant for growing with children. Sow the seeds individually in module cells or thinly in seed trays and water in well, being careful not to displace the seed. If sowing direct, the seed can be sown at the same depth in drills or holes, but at a spacing of 10–15cm apart and again watered in thoroughly. 4) Growing On Keep the soil moist and once germinated and large enough to handle, plants started off undercover can be pricked out into individual pots or planted out in their final position. With directly sown Swiss chard, the seedlings need to be thinned to a final spacing of 30cm to allow the plants room to grow as they mature. As the new plants mature, continue to keep the soil moist and a layer of mulch can be added around the plants to help conserve moisture and suppress weeds. If picked as small leaves, successional sowing every 2–4 weeks will provide a bountiful supply – or if harvesting as large leaves and sowing in spring and then one later in summer should suffice.
Learn more
Use Staggered Sowings To Harvest Kale Throughout The Year - Emily Cupit Shares How
IN THIS GUIDE When To Harvest Kale How To Harvest Kale Storing & Using Kale Kale is absolutely one of the very best crops for UK gardeners to grow – and one of the easiest too. There are a number of different varieties to choose from which offer quite a lot of variety, and if you sow and grow it in the right places and at the right times, you can potentially harvest kale all year round. Typically, kale is sown between March and June or July in the UK and is harvested between around September and March. Difficulty Easy Equipment Required Secateurs or scissors When To Harvest All Year-Round Outdoors Kale is not typically harvested as much, if at all over the summer, since the leaves taste better in the cold. However, you can also sow kale at any time indoors for micro-greens or baby leaves – so you could be eating fresh kale all year round. “I have found that growing kale as a salad crop is a great way to include it in the household menu in the summer months, particularly in a salad,” says Horticulturist Colin Skelly. “I grow trays in a greenhouse, which also avoids some of the airborne munchers of kale (although not slugs or snails!).” Staggered sowings will ensure that you have kale to eat throughout much of the year, since kale can be harvested at a range of different stages of growth. While kale is most commonly considered as an annual crop, you should note that there are also some perennial types that you will be able to harvest not only for a single season but over several years. When To Harvest Kale There are several different options when it comes to harvesting kale, since you can harvest it at any stage of growth. You can: Grow kale for micro-greens, harvesting when the leaves are still very, very small. Pick kale leaves young for fresh salads. Pick leaves once they are more mature to cook, dry, or use in other ways. You can pick little and often to prolong the harvest over a considerable period, since new leaves will grow on your plants. Kale micro-greens can be harvested after just 8-12 days or so. Once the kale develops true leaves, you can harvest it at any time. Though if you would like your kale to grow into a larger, full-sized plant then you should not pick too many leaves until it has grown for longer. When precisely mature leaves are ready for harvest will depend on the variety you have chosen and a range of other factors. But typically, you will harvest kale between 55-75 days after sowing. Smaller leaves are more tender than larger ones, so when you choose to harvest them will obviously depend on what you would like to do with them. How To Harvest Kale To harvest kale, follow these steps: Decide at what stage you would like to harvest the kale you have grown. For micro-greens, simply use some scissors to cut off the tiny brassica seedlings. For baby kale leaves, take leaves as required, taking the larger leaves from closest to the base of the plant. Don’t take too many if you want the kale to continue to grow. Mature leaves should also be harvested from the bottom first, working upwards. As you pick some, growth will continue and new leaves will grow. Simply snap off the leaves by hand, close to the central stem, or use some secateurs or scissors to cut them from the plant. Storing & Using Kale Micro-greens and baby leaves are best eaten fresh and raw, as soon as possible after you harvest. They are great for salads, sandwiches and more. Larger kale leaves work best in cooked recipes – they can also be turned into kale crisps, or dried for later use. You might also blitz a few leaves to add to fruit smoothies. You can also keep them in a sealed container in the fridge for a week or so, or blanch then freeze them for longer-term storage. Since you can make use of kale in so many ways, it is a plant that just keeps on giving – you will surely find it a great plant to grow in your garden.
Learn more
They Might Be Past Their Prime, But You Can Still Eat Broccoli After Flowering
IN THIS GUIDE Eating The Flowers & Leaves If Broccoli Flowers Before Heads Form If You Left Healthy Plants Too Long Letting Plants Go To Seed References Have you left your broccoli a little too long? You might wonder whether you can eat broccoli when it starts to flower. We have your answer… Ideally, broccoli is best harvested when the buds of the flowers are still green (or purple for purple-sprouting varieties), and closed, and the heads are tight.1 However, all is not lost if you leave it too late. You can still eat the stems, flowers and leaves from the plant, and they can taste great raw or lightly cooked in a stir fry or other similar recipe.2 Eating The Flowers & Leaves Opinions can differ regarding the taste of broccoli flowers. Some people like them, others don’t. Personally, I like their mild, slightly nutty flavour and like to eat just-flowering florets raw in a salad. Don’t forget that broccoli leaves are edible too.3 It would be a shame to let your hard work go to waste altogether just because you missed the prime harvesting window. Make sure you do not let any food go to waste in your garden, or in your home. If Broccoli Flowers Before Heads Form If your broccoli plants flower before they have formed tight heads (multiple smaller heads on sprouting broccoli, or one large initial head on Calabrese types) then this is usually a sign of a problem with environmental conditions. When broccoli plants are stressed, they will rush to produce seeds. The stress can come from a range of causes but is often related to temperatures, water shortage, or a lack of nutrients. Broccoli which bolts in this way is still edible. However, in certain circumstances, the flowers and stems may have some bitterness, and might not taste that great – though the leaves should still be useful as a cooked green. Unfortunately, if your younger broccoli plants bolt, you will not usually see any heads forming and it is too late to get the harvest you expected from your crop. It is a good idea to try to identify where things went wrong, to help you grow healthy broccoli plants in future. Sometimes, environmental issues may be beyond your control (extreme weather events, for example). But often, you can make changes related to watering, or the soil, to make sure you can grow more successfully in future. If your broccoli bolted early, then it is not a good idea to save the seeds. If You Left Healthy Plants Too Long If, however, you grew healthy broccoli plants, which formed heads that you simply left a little too long, you cannot only eat the flowers, stems and leaves, but can also consider letting your broccoli go to seed and saving seeds for next year. This is another reason why you should not always pull up flowering broccoli plants right away. If you notice that the heads on broccoli are opening up and flowers are forming, then if you wish to eat your crop, the sooner you can get round to harvesting, the better. The longer you leave it, the more the taste and texture will alter. Notes of bitterness can certainly sometimes begin to creep in.4 There is nothing wrong with the broccoli, and it is still edible later – it is just likely to be tougher, and often won’t taste as nice. Letting Plants Go To Seed If you try a little of the flowering broccoli and do not like the taste, but the plant seems healthy and did produce good heads prior to this stage, simply leave the flowers on the plant to allow seeds to develop. Just remember that seeds may not come true if the flowers have been allowed to cross-pollinate with other members of the Brassica (cabbage) family. After the flowers fade, thin pods will form. If you leave your plants in place, these pods will dry out and turn brown, and will have seeds inside. Before these pods break open, cut the stems and place the stalks upside down over a box to let them dry fully. Once they are completely dry, shaking and tapping the stalks should release all the seeds into the box below. Dry the seeds fully, keep them in an airtight container, and they should last for a number of years. References 1. Growing broccoli in home gardens. (n.d.). University of Minnesota. Retrieved March 13, 2023, from https://extension.umn.edu/vegetables/growing-broccoli 2. How to Use Broccoli or Cauliflower Stems and Leaves. (2020, August 10). FoodPrint. Retrieved March 13, 2023, from https://foodprint.org/blog/how-to-use-broccoli-cauliflower-stems-leaves/ 3. Grant, S. (2022, September 14). Making a meal of ‘waste’ vegetable leaves. East Anglian Daily Times. Retrieved March 13, 2023, from https://www.eadt.co.uk/news/21463798.making-meal-waste-vegetable-leaves/ 4. Fritz, C. (2020a, June 5). Everything You Need to Know About Bolting! Kansas City Community Gardens. Retrieved March 13, 2023, from https://kccg.org/bolting-101/
Learn more
