Growing
Microgreens Can Be Grown At Home Year-Round For An Endless Supply - Here's How
IN THIS GUIDE What Are Microgreens? Commonly Grown Microgreens How To Grow Microgreens 1) Fill Your Containers 2) Sow Your Seeds 3) Water Your Seeds 4) Place In A Warm, Sunny Spot 5) Replenish Your Seeds! 6) Harvesting Your Microgreens Common Problems References Microgreens, or micro leaves, as they are sometimes known, are simply salad, herb and vegetable plants harvested much earlier when they are still small. They are simple to grow and incredibly flavoursome. If the idea of growing microgreens at home seems a bit alien, don’t worry – this guide will cover what they are and how to grow and care for them. What Are Microgreens? Microgreens are simply the very young plants of the herbs, salad and vegetables you might normally eat or grow at home, only harvested when they are tiny. Microgreens are really versatile and can be grown on a windowsill, greenhouse or even outside during the warmer months. If grown inside, it is even possible to produce them year-round for an endless supply. It is thought that they were first introduced in an American restaurant as early as the 1980s, but didn’t become more well known until later and the big global business they are today.1 When learning about microgreens, it is important to note that they are not the same as sprouts – which can be grown in a similar way, but the difference being that microgreens have true leaves, and take slightly longer to grow before being ready to eat. Microgreens are widely available to purchase fresh here in the UK – however, they’re also a great option to grow at home and get children involved in growing their own food. The process can be a fun and sensory experience and the fact that they grow so quickly helps keep them interested. Commonly Grown Microgreens Microgreens can encompass a huge variety of plants in an array of colours and tastes, including herbs, salads, brassicas, legumes and grasses. The most common ones grown here in the UK, categorised by families include: Brassicaceae Family Includes: Broccoli, cabbage, rocket, kale, watercress, mizuna, mustard and radish. Leguminosae / Fabaceae Family Includes: Pea, broad bean. Asteraceae Family Includes: Lettuce, endive. Lamiaceae Family Includes: Mint, oregano, basil, lemon balm. Poaceae Family Includes: Wheatgrass. Some microgreens, such as mizuna and rocket can be a bit spicy, even bitter and others like basil almost sweet, so there is something for everyone’s taste buds. How To Grow Microgreens 1) Fill Your Containers Microgreens can be grown in almost anything, from seed trays and yoghurt pots to lengths of guttering. The containers do not even have to have drainage holes, but this can help. To grow microgreens, fill your container, almost to the top, with a fine-grade compost and gently tamp the soil down. You can also use a linen mat as shown in the example above. 2) Sow Your Seeds Unlike when growing ‘normal’ sized plants, microgreen seeds can be sown rather thickly. This is because the shoots are going to be harvested much sooner and the plants are not going to grow large and compete for space. Once the seeds are sown, press them down gently. 3) Water Your Seeds Water with a spray bottle ensuring the seeds and compost are moist. Using a spray bottle, rather than a jug or watering can, is a gentle way of watering and will reduce any likelihood of the seeds being dispersed. It is often recommended to soak the seeds overnight, prior to sowing, to speed up germination, but this is not strictly necessary as they are such a quick-growing crop anyway. 4) Place In A Warm, Sunny Spot For the seeds to germinate, place the container on a sunny windowsill, south facing is ideal and remember to keep the soil moist. In the right environment, the seeds should germinate within 2 – 3 days. Having germinated, the microgreens need light to continue to grow. A sunny windowsill is more than adequate usually, but lights, such as LED grow lights can be used, especially in winter when light levels are at their lowest. Continue to keep the seedlings well-watered, but don’t overdo it, as overwatering can lead to problems, including mould growth. 5) Replenish Your Seeds! If you get the bug of growing microgreens, it can be surprising how quickly you go through seeds! Thankfully seed can be purchased online in bulk bags of 500g or more, which is more cost-effective and should keep you in microgreens for a while. Even old vegetable seeds found in the bottom of the garden seed tin are worth a go and often work well. This is especially true of brassicas – the seeds are so small and there are often many left to be found at the bottom of the packet. It is possible to have a continual supply of microgreens, rather than a large glut, through a process called successional sowing. This isn’t as complicated as it sounds; it simply means sowing a new batch of seeds every week, so that as one batch has been harvested another one is growing on and almost ready. 6) Harvesting Your Microgreens Once the plants are about 5 – 7.5cm tall and usually after 2 – 3 weeks, the shoots are ready for harvesting. The main thing is that they have developed their true leaves. To harvest, simply cut just above the substrate with a clean and sharp pair of scissors or snips and enjoy. Microgreens are best eaten fresh and one of the great things about growing microgreens at home is that you only need to harvest what you need then and there – the rest will happily continue to keep until you next need them. Some microgreens will regrow, especially if cared for and if cut just above the lowest leaf. If they don’t or if you would rather sow a fresh batch, the old soil can be composted and you are ready to start again. Common Problems Why Are My Microgreens Falling Over? Microgreens falling over can be a rather common problem when growing at home and there can be several causes. Lack of water is possibly the most common reason, so try giving them a good drink and see if they recover in a few hours. But do water gently as the pressure from a jug or tap can force them over as well. Another potential cause of them falling over is because they have grown too thin and leggy and subsequently become weak. This is often because they have not received enough light and may need to be moved to a sunnier spot or placed under a grow light. “Stems rotting off where they meet the soil is another common cause of collapsing,” says Colin Skelly, a Master Horticulturist. “This can be caused by overwatering or lack of drainage from the pot. Adding some grit to the sowing mix could help.” Why Haven’t My Seeds Germinated? Seeds might not germinate for a number of reasons, including the seeds being too old, of poor quality or not being in proper contact with the soil. Germination usually only takes a few days, so any longer and it might be worth checking the sow by date of the seed packet or trying a different brand if it continues. It’s important to remember that seeds need good contact with the soil, the right temperature and to be kept moist, as poor germination can often be caused by just poor soil contact, being too cold or being allowed to dry out. Why Is There Mould On My Microgreens? Mould on microgreens can sometimes be confused with white root hairs, which are usually nothing to worry about and often disappear in a few days. If the white substance around the base of the seedlings does not look hair or feather-like, then it is most probably mould. Mould is most often caused by poor drainage, so if you are using trays or containers without holes, it might be worth trying one with holes, to allow excess water to drain. High humidity can also encourage mould, so opening a window or placing the seed tray in a more ventilated space may help. A lack of light can also be the culprit so increasing the available light may help prevent mould. Using a soil or compost which does not have good drainage may also contribute to mould growth. A freer draining compost mix could be tried or even adding some perlite to the compost mix may well help. Lastly, it is really important to practise good hygiene and clean the trays and containers thoroughly after use and allow them to dry before stacking and putting them away until next time. The best course of action against mould is to try and prevent it in the first place, as if your microgreens do unfortunately get mould, then it is recommended not to consume them. References 1. Role of Microgreens and their Potential Health Benefits: A Review. (n.d.). JETIR. Retrieved March 17, 2023, from https://www.jetir.org/papers/JETIR2105366.pdf
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Harvesting And Storing Onions - Keep Them In The Ground Until Maturity With These Tips
IN THIS GUIDE Choosing Onions Which Store Well How And When To Harvest Your Onions Curing Your Onions Where To Store Onions Preserving Onions Freezing Dehydrating Canning References Learning how to harvest and store onions in the right way is essential for home growers. Onions are a popular and useful garden crop, but it is important to make as much as you can of your onion yield. This involves making sure that you know how to harvest and store your onions correctly. You do not want to invest all the hard work involved in growing onions, only to waste those onions when it is time to take them from the ground. In this article, we will help you make sure that you correctly harvest and store the onions you grow. We will talk through a range of topics: from choosing the right onions in the first place, to preserving your crop for as long as possible. We’ll help you avoid waste and make the most of your homegrown produce. Choosing Onions Which Store Well First things first, it is important to remember that not all onions will store well. When choosing which onions to grow, you should always think about how you like to use them, and how long you would like them to remain in-store. Some onions might be grown and used up right away. While others can be stored to allow you to eat your own onions right through the winter months, and maybe even longer. In this article, we will focus on traditional bulbing onions. Spring onions or scallions are treated in different ways, and there are obviously also different considerations when it comes to perennial allium varieties. Bulb onions are generally either mild or pungent. This refers to their flavour. But whether an onion is mild or pungent can also give you a clue about how well they will store. If you are not sure which type you are growing, cut into them – if the onions make you cry when you cut them, they are high in sulphurous compounds.1 The compounds that make us cry also inhibit rot. So these are pungent onions and they will tend to store better, and can be stored for longer than mild onion types. Typically, the milder the onion, the more quickly they must be used. Set aside milder types to use up more quickly, and set your most pungent onions aside for traditional storage. How And When To Harvest Your Onions Another important thing to remember is that it is important to harvest onions at the right time, and in the right way. Even the most pungent onions will not store as well if they are harvested too early. Onions will store best if they are fully mature. However, leaving the harvest too late can also be a problem – if you leave onions in the ground too long they may be more likely to succumb to pests or diseases. To harvest healthy onions: Add potassium around June to help bulbs to mature. One bulbs have plumped up around midsummer, halt watering and feeding. Avoid fertilisation (especially nitrogen feeds) for the last 6 weeks of growth. Wait for stems to turn yellow and begin to flop over. As soon as at least 1/3 of your crop is yellowing and flopping, it is time to harvest. “One of the questions I get asked constantly is how long do onions take to grow?” says Dan Ori, Master Horticulturist. “The timing will vary by variety and growing conditions, but it is normally from 80 days for plants grown from sets and up to 170 days for plants grown from seed. “The best advice is to start checking from 80 days, when stems turn yellow and are fully bent over, you are good to harvest.” Onions will also store less well if they are damaged when you harvest. You need to harvest your onions carefully to make sure they are unblemished and in tip-top quality for storage. Ease your onions from the ground with a fork or other gardening implement, rather than trying to tug them out of the ground manually. Lay them down gently, and do not throw them around. As you harvest, check each onion over carefully. Brush the dirt gently off the bulbs, and look for any signs of damage or any other problems. Set any damaged bulbs aside to use up more quickly, since they will not store successfully for as long. Curing Your Onions To make sure you can traditionally store onions for as long as possible, there is another stage to go through before your harvested onions are ready to store. Curing your onions simply means removing moisture, and allowing the outer layers of skin and stem to dry out. The dry layers provide a protective barrier around your onion bulbs, helping to keep them fresher for a longer period of time. As the stem point dries out, this seals off the insides. Ideally, onions should be cured at 25-30°C. They should be placed somewhere that is warm and dry, with relatively good ventilation. You can hang up the onions, or place them on a rack or shelf. If you have a greenhouse or polytunnel, this can be a good place to put them to cure. A sunny porch or veranda can also be a good place. At the very least, keep them covered, and up and out of the dew, in a sunny spot. Leave your onions to cure until their necks have become taut, stems are dry, and the outer skins are papery and tight around the bulbs. Once your onions have cured, you can then think about moving them to a position suitable for storage. Where To Store Onions Onions should ideally be stored: In a location with temperatures between around 1-5°C and at least below 10°C. Where humidity can be kept between 55-65%. In a dark environment. Somewhere with some ventilation (but not too much). Ventilation is essential to avoid an increase in CO2 levels and to dissipate heat generated by the onions as they slowly continue to respire. However, too draughty a spot can cause onions to respire more and lose too much weight.2 Not too close to other produce such as apples or potatoes, for example. The ideal spot to store onions is in an old-fashioned root cellar or cold store/ pantry. Of course, we do not all have access to such a space – so if you do not have a root cellar or a pantry – then regular cellars, garages or sheds, or even a cool spare room in your home can also be fine. As well as thinking about the general environmental conditions for storing onions, you should also think about storage solutions. Storage solutions for onions that can work well include: Braiding. Hanging them in mesh bags or tights. Placing them in cardboard boxes. Putting them in wicker baskets. Braiding onions involves weaving the stems together just as you would braid hair. If you have difficulty doing this, or the stems are too short or too brittle then there is also another method to try: Make a loop of string or twine long enough to accommodate your onions, then take an onion and, at the base of the loop, wind it in and out between the two sides of the loop in a figure of eight pattern – then repeat until all your onions are attached to the twine or string. Preserving Onions If you do not have a suitable spot for traditional onion storage, there are a few other ways to preserve your onions so you can keep and use them over a longer period of time. These other methods can also be better for milder onions which will not last as long as the storage methods mentioned above. Freezing Your first option is to freeze some of your onions. This can be a good choice, especially, for milder onion types where you have some freezer space available. The best and easiest way to freeze your onions is simply to slice them. Then you can seal the un-blanched, raw, sliced pieces in jars or other freezer-proof containers. In order to prevent the frozen pieces from sticking together, and for easier retrieval, you can freeze pieces first on a tray. Once frozen, these pieces can then be transferred to containers. This makes things easier because you can tip out only as much you need for a meal without having to defrost all the onions. Of course, you can also cook up your onions and freeze them in a range of recipes to enjoy later in the year. “I prefer a milder onion,” says Dan. “I have found the variety ‘Ailsa Craig’ to be particularly reliable and to my taste. “I harvest all my ‘Ailsa Craig’ quickly when ready, dicing them up and placing them in the freeze in small bags as you can cook onions from frozen. “This means I enjoy my harvest all year!” Dehydrating If freezer space is limited, another traditional way to store onions is by dehydrating them. Drying onions is another good way to make sure they will last as long as possible. You can dry onions in an electric or solar dehydrator, or dry them in your oven on a low heat. Fully dehydrated onions can be kept in sealed jars, to use as needed. Or they can be powdered and turned into an onion powder, which can be very useful in your store cupboard. Canning Finally, one other way to store onions long term is to can them. Canning onion chutneys, onion jams and other preserves, for example, can be a great way to make sure you do not waste any of your onions, and can make use of your harvest over as long a period as you can. Just make sure that you follow a canning recipe from a trusted authority to make sure it is as safe as possible. References 1. Why does chopping an onion make you cry? (2019, November 29). The Library of Congress. Retrieved March 21, 2023, from https://www.loc.gov/everyday-mysteries/food-and-nutrition/item/why-does-chopping-an-onion-make-you-cry/ 2. Adamicki, F., & Kepka, A. (n.d.). Storage Of Onions In Controlled Atmospheres. International Society for Horticultural Science. Retrieved March 21, 2023, from https://www.ishs.org/ishs-article/38_5
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Permaculture Gardener's 4 Potato Storage Methods That Keep Them Fresh For Up To 12 Months
IN THIS GUIDE Only Store Good Quality Potatoes 1) Potato ‘Grave’ Or ‘Clamp’ 2) Pantry / Root Cellar 3) Pressure Canning 4) Freezing Potatoes References Potatoes are a staple crop for many gardeners, but how do you store potatoes so you can keep them and use them over the winter months? To store potatoes so they last for months, you need to make sure that you choose the right potato variety or varieties. Some potatoes will store well, others not as successfully. If you choose the right variety or varieties, you are far more likely to be able to store them over a longer period of time. Only Store Good Quality Potatoes Another important thing is quality control: once you harvest your maincrop potatoes, you should take a good look at each tuber to make sure you do not store any which are blemished or likely to rot in storage. Choose only whole, healthy tubers to store, so you do not introduce pests or disease, and so the potatoes you choose can last for as long as possible. Something to remember is that if you decide to store whole, uncooked potatoes for any length of time, in traditional storage, these should be cured before they are stored. This simply means leaving them for a certain length of time to dry out, and for the skins to thicken and harden up. Potatoes that have been cured will typically be better for storing for longer periods. Do not wash potatoes to be stored in a traditional way until you are ready to use them. 1) Potato ‘Grave’ Or ‘Clamp’ Many old-time gardeners and allotment holders keep their potatoes so they last for months by simply piling them into a hole in the ground, which is often insulated with straw or dried leaves and soil to keep it cool yet frost-free.1 To build a potato clamp: Dig a hole in the soil around 10-15cm deep, wide enough to accommodate the number of potatoes which are to be stored. Line the hole with straw or dried leaves and place the potatoes in a pyramid shape on top, with potatoes no more than 50cm or so above the ground. Place more straw or dried leaves over the top of the pile. Mound over the whole pile with soil at least 15cm or so deep, scooped from a spade depth trench around the clamp. Leave a hole at the top, to provide ventilation, plugging the gap with straw or dried leaves. This structure should keep potatoes edible throughout the winter months. However, the common problem is that pests like slugs or rodents may find the stash. 2) Pantry / Root Cellar Potatoes in a root cellar Another traditional way to store potatoes is, of course, in a pantry, or root cellar. This is by far the best option if you have a suitable space. Any cool and humid space can be ideal for potato storage, so if you do not have a dedicated root cellar or pantry then you can also consider storing potatoes in a garage, shed, or other cool, insulated yet unheated space. You should never store raw potatoes in the fridge, since the chilly temperatures will turn the starch into sugars and alter their taste and texture. The ideal temperatures for potato storage are between 7-10°C.2 The storage space should have reasonably good ventilation. You should always make sure that the potatoes are stored in a breathable container – such as cardboard boxes, baskets or crates – and not in plastic. You should also make sure that you keep potatoes away from onions, since keeping onions and potatoes in store together can cause both to go bad more quickly.3 Come spring, stored potatoes are likely to start to sprout, but if you store them in the right conditions then they should be good to eat right through the winter months. 3) Pressure Canning Pressure canner If you cannot store potatoes in the right conditions through the winter months, or wish to store potatoes you’ve grown earlier in the year, then you will likely have to cook your potatoes before storage to keep them for any length of time. One way to store potatoes so they last for months is to skin, boil and can them. You will however need to have some specialist equipment in order to do so. You will need a pressure canner and canning jars. A pressure canner is essential for canning low-acid vegetables which cannot be canned or bottled using a water bath canner. Potatoes can safely be pressure canned in chunks of around ½ inch, or small potatoes 1-2 inches in size can be canned whole. Boil chunks for 2 minutes, or whole potatoes for around 10. Add to the canning jars, leaving 1 inch headspace, and cover with a canning brine. Then process in the pressure canner. Process at 10lbs (weighted gauge) or 11 lbs (dial gauge) (below 1000 ft). Be sure to adjust pressure accordingly based on your altitude. Process pint jars for 35 minutes, and quart jars for 40 minutes. If you own a pressure canner, the good thing is that you can use this process to store potatoes for a much longer period of time. So this can be a good option to consider if you cannot store in a cool and humid location, or if you want to store potatoes beyond the end of the winter months. Home-pressure canned potatoes typically last 12-18 months when the proper procedure is followed and the canned potatoes are subsequently stored correctly.4 4) Freezing Potatoes Cooked potatoes (cooked in a range of different ways) can also be stored for around a year in your freezer. “I once tried a potato clamp only to find that I’d been feeding the local mouse population and I don’t have a cool, humid cellar,” says Horticultural Consultant Colin Skelly. “My preferred way to store excess is to par boil and freeze them, which produces an excellent and reliable result in my experience.” Raw potatoes should never be frozen because the high water content in raw potatoes means that they turn mushy when defrosted and their texture and taste are ruined. References 1. Jeffries, T. (n.d.). Potato clamps: Storing potatoes and other vegetables using a clamp. Mr Fothergills. Retrieved March 23, 2023, from https://blog.mr-fothergills.co.uk/potato-clamps-storing-potatoes-vegetables-using-clamp/ 2. Publications. (n.d.). University of Idaho Extension. Retrieved March 23, 2023, from https://www.uidaho.edu/extension/publications 3. Quirk, B. M. B. (2014, April 5). Keep Your Onions & Potatoes Separated And Other Tips For Storing Fruits & Vegetables. Consumer Reports. https://www.consumerreports.org/consumerist/keep-your-onions-garlic-separated-and-other-tips-for-storing-fruits-vegetables/ 4. Adamant, A. (2019, October 7). Canning Potatoes ~ How to Pressure Can Potatoes at Home. Practical Self Reliance. Retrieved March 23, 2023, from https://practicalselfreliance.com/canning-potatoes/
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Experts Reveal How To Force Rhubarb For An Early Crop (Make It Grow Faster And Earlier)
IN THIS GUIDE What Is Forcing? How To Force Rhubarb 1) Prepare The Area 2) Add Some Compost 3) Cover Your Rhubarb Plants What Else Do You Need To Know? Depending on the circles you move in, rhubarb can be a criminally unsung crop. This vivacious vegetable (yes, it’s a vegetable!) grows big and proud, its characteristic pink-red stalks erupting out of the ground and into the sky. When picked and trimmed of its leaves, the stalks are delicious and versatile. Never a dull moment with rhubarb One thing that makes rhubarb a popular crop for those of us in the know, is how easy it is to grow. Rhubarb needs little care or attention, evidenced by how often you’ll find it in the wild if you know where to look. It grows well in warm and dark conditions, and has a long harvesting season that can start in winter if you know how – great for incorporating into your growing calendar to ensure you’ve got something ready to harvest for as much of the year as possible. In this article we’ll teach you how to force rhubarb: a technique that brings the start of the harvesting season forward slightly. This should be of interest whether you’re a long-time fan or a complete amateur. What Is Forcing? Put simply, forcing is a way to make rhubarb grow faster and earlier in the year than usual. Forcing is basically tricking the plant into thinking it’s spring, encouraging it to grow more quickly towards what it thinks is the warm springtime sun. This is achieved by simulating warmer growing conditions during winter, and it’s surprisingly easy to do. How To Force Rhubarb There are only a few steps to forcing rhubarb, none of which are difficult. 1) Prepare The Area First up you’ll want to clear the area at the base of a fledgling rhubarb plant. This means removing weeds, old leaves, and any garden detritus that may have gathered around. 2) Add Some Compost Next you need to spread a little compost around the rhubarb, taking care that it doesn’t actually touch the stalks. Doing so can burn the crop and hinder its ability to grow. Just put it in a ring a couple of centimetres away from the plant. 3) Cover Your Rhubarb Plants This is the crucial step: you’re going to cover your rhubarb with a pot, trug, bucket, or similar container. Choose something opaque to block out all-natural light, and ideally with only one hole to allow airflow. Terracotta pots make for great forcing If your covering is made of a light material that may get blown away in strong winds, make sure to weigh it down with a brick or something similar. Plastic plant pots and buckets will definitely require weighing down to prevent them from being blown around your garden once the wind picks up. How Long Does Forcing Take? It takes anywhere over three weeks to force rhubarb. When you check under the containers you’ll see thick pink stems, and these are ready to pick when they’re upwards of about 18cm. The longer you leave your rhubarb the bigger it will get, although check in occasionally to make sure things aren’t getting too cramped. Depending on how many rhubarb plants you have and the weight of the container, you may even see the stalks lifting the container off of the ground! As we said earlier: rhubarb is very enthusiastic. Remove The Leaves Before you do anything with your rhubarb, remove and dispose of the green leaves. What Else Do You Need To Know? Now we’ve introduced the technique for forcing rhubarb (we told you it was easy!), here are a few things that should help you to see better results. Number one: where possible, only force established rhubarb plants as the process is quite intensive, and younger plants can take longer to recover. Once you’ve forced a rhubarb plant and harvested the resulting crop, don’t harvest again from the same plant for the rest of that year, even if it grows decent-looking stalks. You need to give the plant time to rest to put it in best stead for a strong and healthy harvest in subsequent years. Follow these steps to keep your rhubarb crop in good condition Don’t worry about running out of rhubarb early if you force your crop though: it’s easy to stagger things to give yourself multiple harvests. To do this, just leave some plants uncovered to grow at their natural pace. Your forced crop will be ready within a few weeks of being covered, and you can harvest the remainder as and when it starts to look ready. For a plant with a long harvest season, sometimes up until late August, this gives you a lot of flexibility. You can also split rhubarb to give yourself a greater number of plants to grow. Once you start experimenting with rhubarb – both in terms of growing techniques and recipes for your harvest – we’re sure you’ll grow to love it.
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How To Grow The Highly Prized Desiree Potato, A Versatile Red-Skinned Cultivar
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Desiree Pros Desiree Cons Where To Find Them Where To Grow Planting Guidelines Desiree Plant Care Harvesting ‘Desiree’ potatoes are one of the most popular potato varieties for home growers in England and Wales. It is a cultivar of red-skinned potato (Solanum tuberosum) usually used as the main-crop and is highly prized by gardeners and allotment holders. The plant is of medium height, and can sprawl a little later on in its growing cycle; the flowers are reddish-violet, fading to white. Overview Botanical Name Solanum tuberosum ‘Desiree’ Common Name(s) Desiree Potato Plant Type Vegetable Native Area Netherlands Hardiness Rating H3-H4 Foliage Leafy green plants Flowers White flowers When To Sow March, April, May, June Flowering Months June, July, August Harvesting Months July, August, September, October The tubers themselves are fairly large if left to mature to full size as a maincrop potato, but they can also be harvested a little early for an early maincrop if desired. Desiree Pros One of the main benefits of Desiree potatoes is that they have pretty good resistance to drought. This means that they can be a good choice where water is short in summer, or where it is more difficult to ensure adequate irrigation or water as frequently as you should. Another good thing about Desiree potatoes is that they have pretty good disease resistance. This cultivar is immune to problems that can plague other varieties, such as potato wart and skin spot – and it also has good resistance against tuber late blight. Another thing that many people like about this potato variety is that it is a fairly waxy potato, which has a lot of versatility in the kitchen. It can be used for mashing, for chipping, for roasting, and in a range of other ways. “I can’t grow ‘Desiree’ as it crops too late for my blight-prone garden, despite its greater resistance than other cultivars,” shares Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly. “However, I would love to be able to due to it being a tasty all-rounder in the kitchen.” Desiree Cons While in general, the disease resistance of Desiree potatoes is better than many other varieties of potato, it is worthwhile noting that it can still encounter problems. Though the tubers are generally fairly resistant to late blight, the foliage can be affected; leaf roll can also be a problem. And this is not a potato which is resistant to common scab – so may not be the best variety to grow if this is a particular problem in your garden. It also has a weakness to eelworms and potato cyst nematodes. One very important thing to note is that while this can be a great option for gardeners in most of England and Wales, it does not do well in Scotland. When grown in Scotland (where I live) the tubers can be watery and bland and yield very disappointing results. If you live further north, or in a wetter area, you will likely be better off opting for a different variety. Where To Find Them If you do decide that Desiree potatoes are the right option for you, you should find that you have no difficulty at all in getting your hands on some good-quality seed potatoes. The popularity of this variety means that they are widely available in garden centres, online, and in other stores. Often, you can even find bargain seed potatoes of this type in affordable supermarket stores. However, for best results, you should try to find seed suppliers from a certified, reputable supplier, so you know where they come from, and that they are pest and disease-free. If you buy from a reputable supplier, you should get around 10-11 good-sized seed potatoes in one 1kg bag. Where To Grow Desiree potatoes can be grown in the ground or in containers, wherever other potatoes could be grown. They will thrive in any soil which is fertile, moist yet moderately free draining, with plenty of organic matter – and will do best in full sun. Potatoes will do well in any soil with a moderate pH, but do best in slightly acidic soil. Planting Guidelines Desiree potatoes, like other potatoes, can be chitted (left to form green shoots) before planting, though opinions differ on exactly how much difference this makes. Chitted desiree potatoes in a garden trench This variety is usually chitted from around the second half of February and then planted out less than a month before the last frost date in your area. For most, the best time to plant outdoors will be late March or early April. Desiree Plant Care Care for Desiree potatoes does not differ from that of other potatoes. You should keep the plants watered during dry periods if possible (though as noted above, this variety does have fairly good drought resistance). You should ensure that the planting area is fertile, and that you take steps to maintain fertility over time. Companion Planting It is a good idea to consider not only which potato variety you will grow, but also which plants you will choose as companion plants for your potatoes. Companion planting is a great idea in an organic garden and can help you obtain higher yields. Some companion plants to consider include horseradish, garlic, onions or other alliums, peas or beans for nitrogen fixation, parsley, sage, thyme and other aromatic herbs, and flowers like marigolds, borage etc. For the highest yields, we would also recommend that you adopt a no-dig gardening approach, and mulch well around your potato plants. Potatoes in a no-dig garden bed are much easier to harvest. Mulching Mulch can be used as an alternative to earthing up around potatoes in the more traditional way. Comfrey leaves make an excellent mulch for potato plants, for example. A comfrey liquid feed can also be beneficial, while I have also found that mulching with seaweed yields excellent results. Though you should use natural mulch materials which are readily available in your area. Harvesting Desiree potatoes should be ready for harvest from around 16-18 weeks after they were planted. You can expect these potatoes to be ready to harvest around the end of July, though this can vary considerably depending on conditions each year. Make sure you store your potatoes properly to get the most out of your harvest. Remember, Desiree potatoes are not the only option to consider – there are plenty of other interesting and versatile potato varieties to try. For gardeners in most of England and Wales, they are certainly a good option to consider.
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Split Rhubarb To Maintain Plant Health And Vigour - Here's The Simple 6 Step Process
IN THIS GUIDE Why You Might Split Rhubarb When To Split Rhubarb How To Split Rhubarb 1) Prepare The Growing Area 2) Lever Out The Rhubarb Plant 3) Split The Crown 4) Replant The Mature Rhubarb And New Plants 5) Trim Any Dead Foliage 6) Mulch Well Around The Plants Rhubarb is a useful perennial plant which can be split, or divided easily. But why might you want to split a mature rhubarb plant? How and when exactly should you contemplate doing so? In basic terms, rhubarb can be split by: Preparing the new growing area Levering out your existing plant Splitting the crown Replanting the mature rhubarb Trimming any dead foliage Mulching your plants for protection In this simple guide we will walk you through the process in greater depth, and show you just how easy it is to divide existing rhubarb plants in your garden. Why You Might Split Rhubarb Mature rhubarb The first thing to think about if you are considering this process is why you might wish to do so. There are two main reasons why you may wish to split a mature rhubarb plant: To make new rhubarb plants. To maintain health and vigour in an existing rhubarb plant or rhubarb patch. Propagate New Rhubarb Plants First of all, you might wish to divide your rhubarb to create new rhubarb plants for your garden. Splitting an existing rhubarb crown is the easiest way to propagate these perennial plants. The sections which are split away from the mature plant will each grow into a new plant identical to the parent plant from which the division was taken. The plants you propagate from division of an existing rhubarb plant can be used to fill gaps in your garden, or increase your stocks of this useful perennial edible plant. Ease Congestion / Aid A Mature Specimen The second reason to split rhubarb is to overhaul an overly crowded part of your garden, or to improve the health and productivity of an older specimen. You might divide a rhubarb plant, replanting only a portion and moving other sections elsewhere. This can be a good idea where a rhubarb has grown large and outstripped the size of the space available for it. It might be reduced in vigour due to a lack of resources – or it might be competing too much with neighbouring plants and restricting their growth and health. A mature and large rhubarb plant might also start performing worse over time. Dividing the crown to generate new plants can give old plants like these a new lease of life. When To Split Rhubarb It is best to split mature rhubarb plants during the dormant period, sometime between Autumn and very early spring. At this point, there will not be much above-ground growth, and the crowns and roots will be easier to lift and divide. Transplantation shock will also be reduced, and the new plant divisions and existing plant can form strong and healthy root systems before the new growth emerges in the spring. In the UK, November is generally considered to be a good time to split rhubarb plants, though you can also undertake this job throughout the winter where the ground is not waterlogged and remains unfrozen. You can also, if you wish, choose to wait until early spring so you can see where the healthiest new growth is emerging from on the crown. It is generally recommended that you should split mature rhubarb plants every 4-5 years to keep up productivity and keep the plants healthy and strong. How To Split Rhubarb 1) Prepare The Growing Area First of all, when planning to split rhubarb, it is important to think about where the divisions will be going. If necessary, prepare growing areas suitable for them. Add plenty of organic matter. 2) Lever Out The Rhubarb Plant Next, using a garden fork, gently lever the crown of the rhubarb plant out of the soil. Take care not to damage the crown, and try to keep as much of the root rhizomes from below the soil as possible. 3) Split The Crown Carefully split the rhubarb crown into sections, making sure that each section as a shoot and a portion of the root system. Rhubarb crown Usually, you should be able to split apart the crown by hand. However, tougher portions may need to be severed with a spade, or with a sharp bladed implement. If you wish to retain the majority of the mature plant to replace, or if renovating a mature plant, you may wish to simply remove a few small sections around the sides. Rhubarb division If your goal is to maximise propagation and gain as many new plants as possible, you can divide the entirety of the mature crown into smaller sections. 4) Replant The Mature Rhubarb And New Plants If you are retaining the mature plant, replant this to the same depth in the soil as quickly as possible. If you have a series of new plants to place, you should also do so right away. The rhubarb crown sections can be replanted in the soil elsewhere in your garden, or placed in pots or containers where they can grow on. 5) Trim Any Dead Foliage Trim off any dead, trailing foliage from the plants, so that they can concentrate on forming healthy new root systems. 6) Mulch Well Around The Plants Mulch well with organic matter around the plants placed into the soil, so there is plenty of fertility and to make sure the transplantation goes well and plants experience as little shock as possible. “Take care not to cover the crown as this can cause it to rot,” shares Master Horticulturist Dan Ori. Go easy on harvesting from the rhubarb divisions (or forgo harvesting altogether) the following season, so the plants get a chance to establish properly and can provide you with bigger, better harvests over the following years.
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Growing Runner Beans: Sowing, Planting Out, Support And Plant Care Explained
IN THIS GUIDE Overview How To Grow Runner Beans Runner Beans Plant Care Common Problems References Runner beans have been a staple crop of gardeners and growers for decades. They are an easy vegetable to grow, often producing hefty harvests from the middle of summer until early autumn. They are a favourite of slugs and snails, but if protected well whilst young, will provide an ample supply of long green beans to pick and eat for weeks on end. They can be so prolific that you may well end up with a freezer full of them to tide you over the winter months. Overview Botanical Name Phaseolus coccineus Common Name(s) Runner Beans Plant Type Vegetable Native Area Central America Hardiness Rating H2 Foliage Annual, leafy-green Flowers Scarlet, peach or white flowers prior to pods forming When To Sow April, May, June, July Harvesting Months July, August, September, October Phaseolus coccineus, better known as ‘runner beans’, originates from various countries in Central America.1 They are actually a perennial plant, but not being frost hardy are usually grown as an annual here in the UK. Runner beans don’t crop well in high temperatures, which is why they are well-suited to our typical summers. In typically warmer countries such as America and Germany they are grown ornamentally for their red, white and bi-coloured flowers and attract pollinators. “Runner beans are a very attractive edible plant and I confess I like the flower as much as I like the crop,” shares Horticultural Consultant Colin Skelly. “Their reliability in a variable British summer makes them a mainstay of the bean crop in my gardens.” Well-known varieties commonly include ‘Benchmaster’, ‘Lady Di’ and ‘White Lady’, all having been given the RHS Award of Garden Merit (AGM). Runner beans are delicious – they are great cooked and added to a main meal or tossed into a bowl full of pasta or curry. How To Grow Runner Beans Runner beans are easy to grow and being large seeds are a great vegetable to grow with children. They can be given a head start by sowing indoors in late April or May, or directly into the ground outside in late May or early June. They are also readily available as young plants. Sowing Indoors Sow one seed per small pot, filled with multi-purpose peat-free compost, 5cm deep. Place on a sunny window sill or in a propagator, keep well-watered and germination should occur within 7-10 days. Seedlings can be planted out once hardened off and the last risk of frost is over, typically around late May in the UK. Sowing Outdoors Note that by sowing outdoors at a later date, you risk not giving your plants enough of a head start, meaning you are likely to see a much-reduced crop compared with indoors sowing. Sowing directly outdoors is still possible, however. Once the last risk of frost is over, sow two seeds at the bottom of each cane or support at a depth of 5cm. Water well and germination should occur within 7-10 days. Thin to one seedling per cane for support and fiercely protect from slugs and snails. Planting Out You should plant out your runner beans after the risk of last frost has passed (usually in May). Runner beans like to grow in full sun, but can do well in part shade as well. They are hungry plants and will be happiest if lots of well-rotted manure or homemade compost is added to the soil for them to get their roots into. Runner beans can easily grow to 2.5m high so lots of vertical space and support for them to grow upwards are needed. Supports Making supports for the beans to grow upon is half the fun of growing them. Most commonly used are bamboo canes formed into a tall A-frame or wigwam with canes spaced 20-30cm apart. These canes need to be securely pushed into the ground and tied together with string or cable ties, as the weight of the mature plants can be considerable and act like a sail in high winds. Coppiced poles can be used for a more sustainable approach; the most widely used wood used for bean poles is hazel. These hazel rods are more expensive than bamboo canes but are decisively stronger, considered more attractive and should last for several years. Runner Beans Plant Care Runner beans are a climbing plant but will need tying-in to their supports whilst young. Once they have reached the top of their support their growing tip can be pinched out to encourage a bushier habit. Runner beans are not only hungry, but thirsty plants and especially need water when in flower to encourage the pods to set. Mulching around the bottom of the plants is recommended as this will help lock in and conserve moisture. The plants need copious amounts of water, in hot dry weather you can tell they need water by the wilting foliage, but aim for a good drenching at least twice a week. Being hungry plants, runner beans will benefit from a liquid feed applied to the roots every two weeks. Tomato feed can be used at half the usual concentration rate. Once the beans finish cropping, remove the supports and cut the plants down to 5cm high leaving the roots in the soil. By doing this the roots will rot down feeding the soil with nitrogen for the next crop such as brassicas. Common Problems Weeds Weeds can cause havoc with runner bean plants. Not only do they compete for the much-needed nutrients, moisture and space in the soil, but they can even restrict the growth of young plants. By removing the weeds little and often they will not be allowed to take over and the result will be healthier bean plants and a bigger harvest. Slugs & Snails Runner bean plants, especially when young, are a gourmet delight to slugs and snails. It can be so disheartening to find your seedling decimated overnight, so prevention is key. Sowing in pots means you can plant out larger more established plants when ready which will be less susceptible to damage. If sowing direct, surround the seeded areas with a barrier such as wool pellets, copper tape or eggshells and be vigilant. You’ll be amazed at how many slugs and snails you can remove by hand early in the morning or late at night. Aphids Black bean aphids, or ‘black fly’ as they are more commonly known, are probably the most common pest of the runner bean here in the UK. Tiny as they are, they can severely weaken plants and attract ants that feed off the honeydew left behind. The blackfly tend to go for soft young shoots, but will often congregate on the underside of leaves as well. Non-pesticide control includes squashing by hand, spraying gently with water and encouraging ladybirds and hoverflies which will devour them. Pesticide controls can include spraying with fatty acids, plant oils and (as a last resort) insecticides. It should be noted though that pesticides should never be applied when the plants are in flower to avoid any danger to bees and other pollinators. References 1. Phaseolus coccineus. (n.d.). Kew Royal Botanic Gardens. Retrieved March 23, 2023, from https://powo.science.kew.org/taxon/urn:lsid:ipni.org:names:513754-1
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Growing Calabrese AKA 'Broccoli' - Here Are Some Top Tips From Allotment Gardeners
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Calabrese Cultivars Planting Calabrese Companion Plants For Broccoli Plant Care Mulching Crop Rotation References Calabrese is the proper name for what most people think of as broccoli here in the UK. There is a lot of confusion over the name, but those vegetables with large green heads that look like little trees are a specific type of broccoli known as Calabrese. Calabrese are sown in spring and harvested over the summer. Sprouting broccoli, on the other hand, is planted one year, overwinters – and then provides its yield not in its first season but the following year. Sprouting broccoli has many smaller florets, rather than one central initial head. These are often purple or white in colour. Overview Botanical Name Brassica oleracea var. italica, calabrese Common Name(s) Broccoli Plant Type Vegetable Native Area Cultivated Hardiness Rating H3 Foliage Biennial but harvested first season When To Sow March, April, May, June Harvesting Months July, August Both the plant referred to as Calabrese in the UK, and broccoli that overwinters, are Brassica oleracea. Both Calabrese and sprouting broccoli are in a cultivar group called ‘Italica’ within that species. Cauliflower and Romanesco also belong to this group. Calabrese Broccoli Many other brassicas that we grow as garden crops in a vegetable garden, including kale, collard greens, cabbage, Brussels sprouts and kohlrabi belong to different cultivar groups within this species. Calabrese, what we most typically think of as broccoli today, is named after Calabria in Italy.1 It is a plant which grows up to 60cm in height, and produces green heads up to around 15cm across. While there are also plenty of great reasons to grow sprouting broccoli in your garden, Calabrese is easier for beginners, quicker to crop, and is a staple of home growing in cool temperate climate zones. Calabrese Cultivars Once you have decided to grow Calabrese at home, the first thing you need to think about is which particular named cultivar of Calabrese broccoli you would like to grow. ”I love Calabrese because it’s so easy to grow and cook,” says Garden Writer Janice Shipp. Named cultivars of this type of broccoli in the UK include: ‘Belstar’ ‘Fiesta’ ‘Green Magic’ ‘Ironman’ ‘Kabuki’ ‘Marathon’ ‘Monaco’ ‘Monclano’ ‘Sakura’ Planting Calabrese Calabrese is best grown in a fertile growing area in full sun or very light shade. The soil should be moisture-retentive yet reasonably free draining. Since Calabrese and other brassicas have high nitrogen requirements, it is best to plant into a bed that has been amended with plenty of organic matter. It can also be helpful to place Calabrese into a bed that has just been vacated by nitrogen-fixing plants (such as broad beans or peas which have overwintered, for example). Before planting out Calabrese, make sure you have enriched the growing area with plenty of good quality compost or well-rotted manure. “Brassicas like Calabrese need protecting, not only from slugs and snails but from the dreaded cabbage white butterfly,” shares Allotmenteer Emma Bailey. “These like to lay their eggs on the leaves and once the caterpillars hatch, they can eat your crop within a couple of days! Be sure to net them as soon as you plant them out. “Pigeons also love a good munch on brassica plants. Make sure the netting goes all the way to the bottom of the raised bed so that birds don’t get underneath and get trapped.” Companion Plants For Broccoli If you have sown some Calabrese, or are thinking about doing so, it is also a good idea to think about which other plants to include in the same growing area. Companion planting can help you make the most of your space, and can increase the yield you are able to achieve in your vegetable plot. Calabrese can grow well alongside other brassicas, and including your brassicas in the same bed can make it easier to rotate your crops. We’ll look at crop rotation a little later in this article. But in addition to growing other brassicas, you should also consider adding other plants which work well, and which will aid the Calabrese and help enrich biodiversity in your organic garden. Other common crops which will work well alongside your Calabrese broccoli include: Beans – for nitrogen fixation. Beetroot – they like similar conditions, and beetroots require little calcium, which is good for brassicas. Lettuce – growing ‘quick-growing’ lettuces between Calabrese helps make the most of the space and these will be harvested before the space (and resources) are required by your main crop. It’s also good to let chickweed spread and give ground cover between Calabrese. This weed is also a useful edible, and has attractive flowers. Onions, Leeks or Garlic – these may help to repel pests that may plague your Calabrese, such as cabbage worm, weevil and cabbage looper. Aromatic Herbs – for example: rosemary, thyme, sage, dill, mint etc. – these will also repel, confuse or act as a distraction to pests. Flowers – such as marigolds, borage and nasturtiums – all of which can be excellent companion plants in a vegetable garden. Keep Calabrese away from asparagus, sweetcorn, squash, and other heavy feeders, which will compete too much with your broccoli plants. Also keep brassicas away from tomatoes and peppers, since these can attract verticillium wilt, which can spread to damage your Calabrese. Some gardeners also report that radishes do not do very well when planted near brassicas like Calabrese. Plant Care Mulching Mulching is an important part of organic gardening, and it is particularly important when growing ‘hungry’ plants like Calabrese broccoli. Choosing the right mulches for the right crops is important. When it comes to brassicas, and other nitrogen-hungry plants, a green, nitrogen-rich mulch can work wonders. For example, grass clippings (especially from lawns rich in clover), or other leafy green material can make a good mulch to lay between your Calabrese. As this leafy material breaks down, it will give the brassicas the nitrogen they need. Of course, you can also mulch around brassicas with homemade or commercial compost, leaf mould or well-rotted manure. Crop Rotation Annual brassicas like Calabrese are one of the crops that are best rotated between different growing areas. When brassicas are grown in the same bed year after year, diseases such as clubroot (a fungal infection that can destroy brassicas by infecting their roots) are more likely to take hold. Clubroot can also be avoided by making sure that the soil is slightly alkaline (using lime to raise pH if necessary), and by avoiding waterlogging and compaction. Brassicas will appreciate it if they are placed in a crop rotation following peas, beans or other nitrogen fixers. They are often followed by potatoes in a four-year rotation, and the potatoes are then followed by alliums (onion family) and root crops. References 1. The Joy Of Purple Broccoli. (2022, January 26). Buffalo Market. Retrieved March 13, 2023, from https://www.buffalomarket.com/blogs/news/the-joy-of-purple-broccoli
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'It's Neither Melon Nor Cucumber' - How To Grow Cucamelons For Their Interesting Fruit
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Habitat & Growing Conditions Indoors Or Outdoors? How To Grow Cucamelon Plant Care Harvesting Cucamelon Common Problems References Though rising sharply in recognition, Central American Cucamelon is still an exotic rarity in the UK. This fast-growing disease-free climbing vine has attractive heart-shaped leaves, buttery-yellow flowers, and bears seriously cute teeny-weeny ‘mouse melons’. Somewhat cucumber-like and citrusy, they are crunchy and zesty raw, and impart a tangy taste to salads and salsas. What’s more, this plant provides a very ornamental ‘wall cover’. This fruiting vine is a head-turner – for sure, in the ranks of garden exotica, Central American Cucamelon is way up there. Overview Botanical Name Melothria scabra Common Name(s) Cucamelon, Mexican Sour Gherkin, Mouse Melon Plant Type Fruit / Vegetable / Climber Native Area Central America Hardiness Rating H1C Foliage Deciduous; lobed heart-shaped leaves Flowers Yellow When To Sow (Indoors) April, May Harvesting Months July, August, September As the fruit resembles a doll’s house melon in appearance while being similar to cucumbers in taste, you would likely think that Cucamelon is a cross between the two. Well, surprise! – it is neither melon nor cucumber. Cucamelon or Melothria scabra belongs to a genus of flowering vines. As it happens, M. scabra bears an edible (and very ornamental) fruit. However, Genus Melothria does fall under Family Cucurbitaceae which includes both cucumbers and melons. So maybe there’s something there!1 Cucamelon is known by various names, these being Mexican Sour Gherkin, Mexican Sour Cucumber, Mouse Melon, and ‘Sandita’ – Little Melon in Spanish. M. scabra is a deciduous fast-growing climber that will attain a height of 1-1.5M if grown as an annual, and 3M+ if grown as a perennial (by storing it dormant over the winter in the UK). The flowers, at only about 4mm, are nothing spectacular but are cheery in their own right – they are flat with five splayed petals and of a bright, buttery yellow. M. scabra is monoecious which means that the flowers (on the same plant) are either male or female.2 The male and female flowers of a monoecious plant pollinate amongst themselves. Among Cucamelon’s noteworthy attributes are that it is among the most pest-resistant and disease-free of vines, is fairly drought-resistant, and is very productive, even prolific. Habitat & Growing Conditions ‘Sandita’ grows in nature in a swath of land from Mexico down to Venezuela including most, though not all, regions of Central America.3 In its native range, it thrives in hot weather with temperatures hovering between 30-35°C. In its own habitat Cucamelon is a deciduous perennial though in British climes it is usually treated as an annual and that’s because it is frost-tender, hardy only to Zone H1C. That doesn’t mean you have to grow it as an annual; this vine can carefully be stored in a dormant state for the winter and re-planted in spring. Indoors Or Outdoors? As a bona fide two-for-one deal, Cucamelon climber not only serves up tasty treats, it also delivers ornamental bang-for-buck to the garden. While this Central American native must be grown in a sheltered location where it enjoys full sun, its ‘garden status’ as an interesting ornamental suggests that it should be in a position where it can see and be seen. “Although I’ve grown Cucamelon outdoors, it has only thrived in a polytunnel where the higher temperatures suit it far more than the vagaries of a UK summer,” shares Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly. “The fruits are good to use in cocktails!” Though the straightforward and practical thing to do is to have this climbing vine run up a trellis or tomato cage, to take advantage of its decorative value grow it against the latticework of a summer house, or climbing up a shed or even a wall of your house. You could twine it around the post of a pergola. However, keep in mind that if it is tightly coiled around any upright, removing this delicate vine in late autumn for dormant storage will be very difficult; in such a case Cucamelon will have to be treated as an annual. Though harvesting and maintenance would be difficult, you could grow these vines in hanging baskets so that they cascade over and down the rim for another type of aesthetic appeal. How To Grow Cucamelon The popularity of Cucamelon is on the rise but it is certainly not a plant that you can walk into your neighbourhood nursery and expect to find. Nurseries that sell potted plants or bare-root vines are still few and far between. However, you will surely find some if you search online. The best option is to buy Cucamelon seeds – these are much more readily available, both at garden centres and also online. Though Cucamelon vines take their own sweet time to germinate, they are not particularly difficult to grow and care for, so seeds are really the way to go. Growing From Seed Cucamelon needs to be started indoors in the UK. About four weeks before the last predicted frost date for your location is the ideal time. Seeds should be sown in potting mix (which would include compost) in pots. Consider using biodegradable pots to make transplanting easy and risk-free as young Cucamelon roots are tender, and disturbance or damage may affect the growth and yield of the vine, or even kill it. Push seeds all the way into the soil with the pointed end facing up, one per pot. You’ll need to grow several of these vines to produce attractive ornamental cover and to yield a good harvest so plan on starting at least six, preferably a dozen, seedlings keeping in mind that you will likely lose a few. Germinate, and grow the seedlings indoors or in a greenhouse such that they get full sun and at a soil temperature of around 23-24°C. Though Cucamelon is a very fast grower after it is up and running, it takes rather a long time to get up and running! Be prepared to water patiently for two to three weeks while the seeds germinate. Optimal soil temperature will markedly speed up germination – as the seedlings grow, reduce the temperature to 20-21°C. Transplanting After there is no chance of frost it is time to transplant the vines outdoors. However, in the UK it would be prudent to harden them for a week to ten days before transplanting. If you grew your Cucamelons in biodegradable pots the job will be much easier and free of both any stress or risk. Space the growing vines 20-30cm apart. If you want to grow Cucamelon in regions of the UK where the weather is particularly cold or unpredictable, consider doing so in a planter big enough for a vine plus a support framework. This will give you the flexibility to shift the plant as the vagaries of the weather may dictate. Plant Care Soil Requirements The soil can be clay, loam or sand as long as it is free-draining. Though a soil pH from moderately acidic to slightly alkaline will do just fine, the ideal soil pH for Cucamelon is slightly acidic. The location in the garden should enjoy full sun but should also be sheltered from the wind. Feeding About ten days after transplanting you may fertilise the climber with a 5-10-10 vegetable fertiliser, especially if the soil is not very fertile. However, do not fertilise these sensitive vines as you would tomatoes or melons; apply fertiliser lightly and sparingly. Watering Water the vines moderately twice a week such that the soil stays moist but not wet. Water at soil level, not on the foliage. A drip system will be very suitable for this plant. Mulching around the vines, though not necessary, will be helpful, as it will deter weeds and also retain moisture. Plant Support Cucamelon need a support structure on which they can climb otherwise they will spread and creep untidily along the ground, with the attendant risk of slugs and rodents having an easy time with your fruit, and the fruit getting dirty or contaminated as well. Furthermore, such a support structure is also essential to maximise the decorative appeal of Cucamelon climbing vines. Practical options include a support structure of cane or bamboo, a trellis, or a tomato cage. Overwintering After the vine has ceased to bear fruit by late autumn, you can preserve your plant to flower again next spring. Gently disentwine the climber from the support structure, and remove it from the soil taking care not to damage the main fleshy root. Keep the root system in only slightly moist compost and store for the winter in an above-ground room such as a shed that will be protected from frost. In mid-spring, plant the vine outdoors again. Fertilise it a week or ten days after planting it out. Harvesting Cucamelon Cucamelon vines will produce fruit from mid-summer to mid-autumn. Fruits form at the base of the female flowers. Timing is important in picking these fruits so that they’re at their best. Cucamelon must be harvested early, as soon as it is ready. Sure, you don’t want to pick these fruits when they’re pea-sized but you don’t want to delay either, otherwise they lose that light, refreshing, and succulent mouthfeel and become tough or dense and unenjoyable, and also develop large seeds. So how do you know just when to pick Cucamelons? The fruit will form just below the flower, which will wither as the fruit develops. The fruit is ready for picking when it is right around an inch long and firm – neither hard nor soft – and there is no more flower. Guideline aside, it’s really not a great mystery – a little experimentation and you’ll have it down within days. What you do need to do without fail is that after the flowers appear, monitor the vines for pickable fruit every other day or even on a daily basis. Snip off the fruits with a pair of secateurs; avoid trying to pull them off as the vines are delicate. Harvesting will go very smoothly if you have those secateurs in one hand and a bowl in the other. You can store Cucamelons in the fridge’s crisper but for no more than three or four days. Common Problems Cucamelon vine is well known to be pest-resistant and disease-free. On occasion, a vine may get powdery mildew or aphids. Powdery mildew can be avoided by watering at soil level and ensuring that the plant is not closed-in by trees, other plants, or structures so that it can enjoy good air circulation. Though aphids only infrequently attack Cucamelon, they are among the most dangerous of pests as they are hard to control because of how very rapidly they breed. You can either get and release ladybugs and lacewings at the site of the infestation or clean it and spray it with insecticidal soap, which is an organic product. Do not attempt both methods in conjunction because soap will put off ladybugs and lacewings. References 1. Melothria. (n.d.). Kew Royal Botanic Gardens. Retrieved March 14, 2023, from https://powo.science.kew.org/taxon/urn:lsid:ipni.org:names:30043481-2 2. Melothria scabra. (n.d.). School of Horticulture Plant Database. Retrieved March 14, 2023, from https://plantdatabase.kpu.ca/plant/plantDetail/1774 3. S. (n.d.-f). Mouse Melon or Mexican Sour Cucumber, Melothria scabra. Wisconsin Horticulture. Retrieved March 14, 2023, from https://hort.extension.wisc.edu/articles/mouse-melon-or-mexican-sour-cucumber-melothria-scabra/
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