Growing
Follow These Guidelines When Growing Marrows For A Bumper Harvest
IN THIS GUIDE Overview How To Grow Marrows Marrow Plant Care Harvesting Common Problems References Marrows don’t get enough love, really. These long, cylindrical vegetables grow large and quickly, and go a surprisingly long way in the kitchen. Their gentle flavour is fairly versatile, lending itself well to roasting, grilling, and various other cooking styles – and to top it off, they’re easy to grow. Marrows are vegetables closely related to melons, squashes, and pumpkins. They share a similar texture, if not a little squelchier, and have a gentle flavour that acts as a canvas for other flavours to play upon. Overview Botanical Name Cucurbita pepo Common Name(s) Marrows, Courgette, Squash Plant Type Fruit / Vegetable Native Area Cultivated Hardiness Rating H2 Foliage Annual Flowers Yellow flowers from which fruit form When To Sow April (Indoors), May, June Harvesting Months July, August, September, October Marrows are also very similar to courgettes, which makes sense considering that it’s the same plant. Leave a courgette on the vine for longer and it will keep growing, at some point reaching the right size to be classed as a marrow. Zucchini is the American word for courgettes and it sits in the Cucurbita genus (Cucurbitaceae family) as a common relative of squash, melons and cucumbers.1 The concept of courgettes came later, as gardeners discovered the slight difference in taste between those vegetables left to mature for a longer time on the plant. How To Grow Marrows Marrows like full sun, moisture-retentive soil, and shelter from the elements. Find a spot that fits these criteria, and you’ll be rewarded with a healthy marrow harvest soon enough. Sowing It’s easy to grow marrows from seed, and packets should be available from all good garden retailers. You can sow indoors or outdoors, too, giving you flexibility to choose the method best suited to the space and time available. To sow marrows outdoors, put seeds about 2.5cm deep into the ground. Aim to sow outdoors in May or June. We recommend planting 2 or 3 for each plant you want, in holes close together – cover each with plastic, netting, a cloche or similar to keep pests away, and aim to leave them undisturbed for a couple of weeks after germination. Before the next step, remove all but the strongest seedling. Your plants should be around 1m apart, and the same is true for transplanted marrows. To sow marrows indoors, sow individual seeds about 15mm deep in pots at least 8cm deep; lay the seeds on their narrow sides. You can do this in April as long as temperatures won’t fall below 18°C. Transplanting Marrows need special planting pockets prepared before you plant them out. This involves scooping out about 15 inches squared (width, height, depth) of soil and filling with compost. Do this a couple of weeks before you plan to plant out your marrow seedlings, to ensure the young plant has all the nutrients it needs as soon as it hits the ground. Make one planting pocket for each plant. Alternatively, thoroughly fork the soil in the area where you’re planting and add generous amounts of organic matter, such as home-made compost. If you sowed your marrow seeds indoors, you’ll need to harden them off before planting out. For one week leave the plants outdoors during the day and bring indoors overnight. Then, the next week, leave outdoors in a very sheltered spot for the whole week. This will get them acclimated to outdoor conditions, without shocking them too much that it’ll cause damage. If you’re not keen on starting seedlings indoors or outdoors you can buy young marrow plants from garden stores, and these are ready to plant directly into the ground. Using Growbags / Containers Marrows also grow well in containers or growbags; just make sure the container is big enough! Diameter and height should be at least 45cm. With growbags, don’t plant more than two marrow seedlings in a bag otherwise it’ll get crowded. Whatever method you choose, aim to plant out your marrows in May or June. Marrow Plant Care Watering These big plants need plenty of water to keep healthy. Take care to water the soil, not the plant, as overly moist conditions topside can lead to damage. If possible, dig a small hole next to, or shallow moat around, next to the marrow, taking care not to damage it, and water into that will ensure that the water goes to the roots rather than the parts of the plant just below the soil. Hydrating roots rather than plant material reduces the risk of rot. Feeding Once you spot your first fledgling marrow, feed the plant fortnightly with a liquid fertiliser high in Potassium. Doing so will encourage more growth, giving you bountiful marrows further down the line. Plant Support Not many vegetables need this step, so you may not have seen it before. We recommend placing each marrow on a flat surface (like a tile) to keep it away from the soil. This prevents scuffing on the bottom, and should lead to better-looking veggies at harvest time. Harvesting When the marrow is at the size you want it, simply pluck it from the stem. Marrows are often ready to harvest in July and will continue to ripen until October, giving you a long harvest season. And if you’re not feeling patient, remember you can harvest small marrows as courgettes. Common Problems Marrows are prone to a few issues, but knowing what you’re up against is usually enough to prevent catastrophe. Here’s what to keep an eye on. No Fruit / Stunted Growth In years with poor weather in the early summer, you may find that your marrows are small or non-existent. This is caused by lack of adequate pollination and will, when the weather gets better, resolve itself. Just be patient and prepare for the eventuality of harvesting a little later than initially planned. Mould Sometimes you’ll find blankets of grey mould covering parts of your marrow plant. This is more likely in humid conditions, providing a good reminder of why it’s important to water the roots, rather than the top of the plant. If you do see mould, remove and destroy the infected areas to prevent the issue from spreading elsewhere on the plant. “As well as grey mould, powdery mildew, which forms a white coating on plants, can be a common problem with marrows,” says Master Horticulturist Peter Lickorish. “I find it usually develops on stressed plants, such as those spaced too close together, watered irregularly or overfed. “Slugs will also devour young plants. I’ve found wool pellets to be a useful defence, which additionally can be used to mulch marrow plants. Mulching is useful for retaining soil moisture.” Soon you’ll be singing the overdue praises of this currently unsung vegetable, welcoming it into your kitchen and exploring the myriad ways it can be used. References 1. Cucurbita pepo (marrow). (2022). CABI Compendium. https://doi.org/10.1079/cabicompendium.17069
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Celery Varieties And Growing Methods With Permaculture Gardener Elizabeth Waddington
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Why Grow Celery? Celery Varieties How To Grow Celery Preferred Soil Growing From Seed Regrowing Celery Stalks Companion Planting Celery Care Harvesting References Celery is not necessarily the easiest crop for novice gardeners to grow from seed, but it can be a great addition to a kitchen garden. Whether you eat it raw, in a salad, or cooked in soups and other meals, this is a useful vegetable that can be great to add to a home-growing repertoire. The celery that you can grow in your garden are cultivars of Apium graveolens. This is a plant that naturally grows in marshy ground, which has been grown as a vegetable since ancient times.1 The long fibrous stalks of the plants are the part most commonly eaten as a vegetable. The leaves at the ends of the stalks are also edible, though stronger tasting, and are often used as a pot herb.2 Overview Botanical Name Apium graveolens Common Name(s) Celery Plant Type Vegetable Native Area Cultivated Hardiness Rating H2 Foliage Edible herb leaves When To Sow (Indoors) March, April Plant Out May, June Harvesting Months August, September, October, November Celery is a biennial crop – it will usually flower and set seed only in its second year. However it can bolt, and prematurely set seed when grown as an annual crop – the reasons for which we will discuss a little later in this article. A related species, Apium graveolens var. rapaceum is a different vegetable known as celeriac, which is grown in the UK and across Europe for its large edible bulbs, rather than for its stalks or leaves. Why Grow Celery? Celery is usually an easy crop to grow (with the right knowledge) and a great inclusion for a home-grown vegetable garden. One thing to note is that while celery can be rather challenging to grow from seed, it can also be regrown from the base of a stem, which is a quick and easy way to get started with growing your own. We’ll cover both methods in this article. Celery can grow well alongside many other plants typically grown in a kitchen garden – so where the right conditions can be provided, it can add to the biodiversity of your beds and be a key component of polyculture organic garden schemes. Celery Varieties If you decide to grow celery from seed, then one important decision that you will have to make is, of course, which variety or varieties to grow. ‘Utah’ Some top varieties to grow include: ‘Celebrity’ ‘Full White’ ‘Galaxy’ ‘Granada’ ‘Lorreta’ ‘Octavius’ ‘Redventure’ (Cross of ‘Red Giant’ and ‘Ventura’) ‘Tango’ (this variety has good resistance to bolting) ‘Utah’ ‘Victoria’ How To Grow Celery Celery can be grown in containers, in raised beds, or in the ground, as long as suitable moist conditions can be provided and maintained. Water is the most important thing when caring for celery, so it is important to choose to grow it somewhere where adequate moisture in the growing medium can be maintained. Preferred Soil Remember, the wild celery from which modern cultivars were derived naturally grows in marshy conditions. Celery will thrive in full sun, in a humus-rich and moisture-retentive yet light and open soil or growing medium. It is unfussy as to soil pH, however, and can thrive even in more extremely acid or alkaline conditions. It is important to prepare a growing area well before planting out celery, which you will usually do sometime between late May and July. Growing From Seed As mentioned above, growing celery from seed can be somewhat challenging. The main issue is that the seeds can be rather slow to germinate, and are also somewhat fussy when it comes to the environmental conditions required for germination to take place successfully. Seeds are typically sown between mid-March and early April. They can be direct sown where conditions allow, and in undercover growing areas of with protection, but it is best to sow them indoors or under cover, in seed trays, modules or pots. Direct sowing reduces the risk of transplantation shock, but starting in trays, modules or pots makes it much easier to make sure that the necessary conditions for germination are met. Celery can germinate from a minimum of 4°C, but when seeds and seedlings experience temperatures below 10°C then they can be more likely to bolt later in the season. “As this can often be difficult to manage, it’s a good idea to minimise the risk of bolting by choosing bolt-resistant varieties such as Celery ‘Tango’,” says Roy Nicol, Master Horticulturist. The optimal temperature range for germination is between 15-21°C. Hold off sowing until these temperatures can reliably be maintained. Bear in mind that germination can take some time, and seedlings may not emerge for 2-3 weeks. Seeds must be sown on the top of the growing medium, with just a very thin sprinkle of sieved compost or potting mix on top. Moisture is very important – the compost or potting mix must be consistently moist for germination to take place, and conditions must remain moist as seedlings emerge. Mist carefully to make sure moisture is maintained without damaging the tiny seedlings when they appear. Once seedlings emerge, wait patiently until they are large enough to handle, which is usually when they have several true leaves. Then carefully prick out each one and place them into their own individual pots or modules to grow on. Harden off and transplant celery into growing areas or your garden once the weather is reliably above at least 10°C. Any shocks or chills during the early stages of the life of your celery – any issues will make it far more likely that the celery plants will bolt. Regrowing Celery Stalks If you are a novice gardener, you may find it challenging to grow celery successfully from seed. If you are looking for an easier option, you should know that you can regrow celery stalks from the base of a celery that you have bought. Place the base of the celery in a shallow bowl or saucer of water, and wait for roots to appear. After the roots have formed, new growth will emerge from the top of the base. You can keep refreshing the water and keep the celery in the water, or replant the celery with its new roots somewhere suitable in your garden. Companion Planting Celery is said to have a repellent effect on brassica pests like the cabbage white butterfly, so it can be beneficially planted alongside members of the cabbage family. Beans, alliums (leeks, onions etc), spinach, and tomatoes are also said to grow well alongside this crop. Pungent aromatic herbs will also help when planted close to celery – consider basil, thyme, sage, hyssop, or coriander, for example. Avoid planting celery alongside carrots and other umbellifers, as these will be too much in competition with celery plants. Celery Care Watering Water is the most important thing with celery – this cannot be stressed enough. Make sure you water well and consistently throughout the growing season, and never allow the soil or growing medium to dry out. Blanching When preparing a growing area for celery, you will need to consider whether you have chosen a self-blanching variety, or will undertake work to blanch the stems as the plants grow. Trenching is one common method for growing celery that will be blanched: A trench is prepared that is around 35-50cm wide and 30cm in depth. This trench is filled with organic matter (in autumn, or in early spring). Celery is then planted in a line along this trench, at a spacing of around 20-25cm. Then, when the stems are around 30cm tall, earth is mounded up around the stalks a bit at a time so just the tops are left exposed, thereby blocking the sun. Alternatively, cardboard collars can be used for blanching. Self-blanching varieties will not necessarily require this treatment. These types are often sown in blocks, so plants shade one another, which is enough to create the pale and tender stalks desired. Mulching It is a good idea to mulch with a nitrogen-rich mulch once the celery is established. Mulches will not just add fertility but also help retain moisture and suppress weeds. If you are growing celery in containers, you should also feed every couple of weeks with a compost tea or other balanced, organic liquid plant feed. Pests & Diseases “The larvae of the celery leaf mining fly feed on the leaves of celery, giving them a dried or scorched appearance,” explains Roy. “Infestations can be prevented by covering plants with an insect-proof mesh, otherwise removing infected leaves promptly can prevent plants from being affected enough to cause stunted growth. “The fungal infection celery leaf spot will also reduce the vigour of plants if allowed to spread, so infected leaves should also be removed promptly.”3 Harvesting Celery is typically harvested between August and October and lifted before the first frosts. Though trenching (or growing with protection in an undercover growing area) could allow you to string things out as late as mid-winter. You can begin to harvest as soon as the plants are large enough, simply by cutting off the stalks at the base with a sharp knife. References 1. Celery: A Brief History. (n.d.). University of Missouri. Retrieved March 14, 2023, from https://ipm.missouri.edu/MEG/2011/11/Celery-A-Brief-History/ 2. Hunt, T. (2019, July 9). Why are you throwing away your celery leaves? The Guardian. Retrieved March 14, 2023, from https://www.theguardian.com/lifeandstyle/2018/jul/14/waste-not-celery-leaves-herbs-salad 3. Celery. (n.d.). Royal Horticultural Society. Retrieved May 10, 2023, from https://www.rhs.org.uk/vegetables/celery/grow-your-own
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Elizabeth Waddington Grows Delicious Beetroot Every Year - Here's How
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Why Grow Beetroot? Choosing Beetroot Seeds Companion Plants Beetroot Plant Care References Beetroot is a common garden crop, and a great choice both for beginners and expert home growers. It is actually one of my favourite garden crops – I grow it every year, and recommend it to you wholeheartedly if you are trying to work out what to grow in an edible garden this spring. “I love growing beetroot which rarely fails and tastes delicious in salads and casseroles,” shares Garden Writer Janice Shipp. Beetroots, or beets as they are known elsewhere, are the edible taproots of Beta vulgaris. Overview Botanical Name Beta vulgaris Common Name(s) Beetroot, Beets Plant Type Vegetable Native Area Cultivated Hardiness Rating H3 Foliage Edible, green leaves There are a number of cultivated varieties of this species which are grown for their edible taproots. While the bulbous taproot is the main part of the plant used for culinary purposes, the leaves and stems (beetroot greens or beet greens) of the plants are also edible. Originally plants were selected for their edible leaves before varieties with swollen roots were bred in the Middle Ages.1 Why Grow Beetroot? Beetroot is a versatile crop that makes a great addition to a homegrown vegetable garden. This root vegetable can be eaten raw, boiled, roasted and in many other ways. It can also be preserved through pickling, and used to make a range of condiments. The young leaves are great in salads, and larger, older leaves can be used as a cooked green akin to chard or spinach. Some people think that they do not like beetroot – until they try it fresh from their garden. If your only introduction has been to the boiled or pickled beetroots, then try them baked, or grated raw into a coleslaw or salad, and you may change your mind. One of the great things about beetroot is that you can grow it relatively easily in traditional vegetable plots, raised beds or containers. So it is a great choice even for beginners, and it works well even in smaller gardens, since this is a crop that will not take up too much space. Choosing Beetroot Seeds Before you start growing beetroot at home, you will need to decide which variety (or varieties) to grow. There are plenty of great heritage seeds and commercial varieties to choose from. Good typical reddish beetroots to choose from include: ‘Bettollo’ ‘Bolivar’ ‘Boltardy’ ‘Bona’ ‘Bull’s Blood’ ‘Detroit Globe’ ‘Early Wonder’ ‘Kestrel’ ‘Pablo’ ‘Red Ace’ ‘Rhonda’ B. vulgaris ‘Barbietola di Chioggia’ is interesting because it has pink and white concentric rings inside. B. vulgaris ‘Cylindra’ have elongated roots. There is also B. vulgaris ‘Blankoma’, with unusual green and white roots. When making your choices, be sure to think about taste, appearance, and whether you need roots to store or just to eat when young and fresh. Consider, too, whether you want to choose a heritage type and save your own seeds. If you do plan to save your own seeds, remember that chard can cross easily with beetroot, so you’ll have to keep them apart if you do not want them to. Companion Plants Beetroot works very well in mixed polycultures and will grow happily alongside a wide range of other common garden crops. Polyculture with beans, beetroot, chard and more One option that can work well is including beetroot in rotation with carrots and onions. Carrots and beetroots are both root crops, of course, and yet carrots are typically deeper rooted and so they are not overly competitive with one another for water and nutrients. Onions work well with both carrots and beetroot, and their strong smell can help in repelling pests. Planting beetroots alongside other alliums, such as garlic, shallots or leeks can work well too. Beetroot is also excellent for growing alongside Brassicas. It can work well in rotation with these cabbage family crops. Plant beetroots alongside these crops and they use different nutrients, reducing competition between them Quick-growing lettuce and radishes can also be included in polycultures with beetroots and brassicas, to fill in gaps while larger crops establish, making the most of the space. Planting beetroots among catnip, summer savoury, and certain other aromatic herbs can also help in controlling pests that may nibble on your beetroot leaves. Avoid planting beetroot next to runner beans, Peter Lickorish, a Lecturer in Horticulture, explains: “They add lots of nitrogen to the soil, which makes for a leafy beet, at the expense of the root.” Beetroot Plant Care Beetroot is generally a relatively trouble-free crop. It rarely requires additional fertilisation as long as the potting mix or soil is nutrient-rich. However, where the plants are not growing strongly, you can consider adding a balanced fertiliser, a nitrogen-rich organic fertiliser or liquid plant feed. During dry spells, it is typical to water beetroot every 10-14 days. Though beetroot grown under cover or in containers will often need to be watered more frequently. Make sure that you keep the medium consistently moist or bolting (premature flowering and setting of seed) is more likely to become an issue. Roots that do not receive enough water are also more likely to split and become woody. “In terms of pests, the main pest I find is the flea beetle, which chews holes in the leaves,” adds Peter. “Often, the damage can be tolerated, but if extreme, they can be netted. “Ponds are great additions to gardens, which attract predatory frogs.” Remember to thin beetroot to a spacing of around 10cm; you can wash and eat the thinnings. Then, once the beetroot are around the size of a golf ball, pull every second one, leaving the rest, if you wish, to reach maturity. “My favourite way to eat beetroot is as beetroot burgers and several of the other ingredients, including onions, grow happily side-by-side,” says Peter. References 1. Fascinating facts and figures: beetroot. (n.d.). Royal Horticultural Society. Retrieved April 18, 2023, from https://www.rhs.org.uk/advice/grow-your-own/features/FFF-Beetroot
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Homegrown Cucumbers: How You Can Use A Trellis To Support Plants As They Grow
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Why Grow Them? How To Grow Trellis Cucumbers Common Problems Unless you’re a cat, you’ve probably got a fairly neutral opinion of cucumbers. The ones you buy at a grocery store are long and green, have a gentle flavour that adds a crunchy texture to salads, sandwiches, and various other dishes. Grow your own, though, and you’ll find them a lot more flavourful, as Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly shares: “Along with tomatoes and strawberries, home-grown cucumbers are far tastier than shop-bought alternatives. “This is because the fruit will be super-fresh but also because the home gardener can choose cultivars for flavour rather than the ability to travel and keep well. “This is particularly true for outdoor cucumbers which you can’t typically buy from a supermarket.” You’ll also notice the skin grows much bumpier, bringing an interesting texture and earthiness to your plate. In this article we’ll introduce vining cucumbers – one of the two types of cucumber plant you can grow. We’ll also introduce trellises, and teach you how to build one for your vining cucumber to wind itself up and around. Overview Botanical Name Cucumis sativus Common Name(s) Cucumber Plant Type Fruit Native Area Cultivated – origins in India Hardiness Rating H1C Foliage Vining Flowers Yellow flowers from which fruit form When To Sow March, April, May, June Harvesting Months July, August, September, October Quite simply, a cucumber trellis is a trellis built specifically for cucumbers to grow on. While many vegetables can be grown on trellises, a cucumber trellis is designed to offer the dimensions most conducive to a healthy harvest of Cucumis sativus. By providing a structure for a vining cucumber plant to grow upon, a trellis encourages healthy and numerous growth. While a vining cucumber will grow on the ground, many gardeners are surprised by just how much growing they’ll do. You’ll quite quickly be overrun with two metres or more of energetic vines, and they’ll have no qualms about interfering with other plants. A trellis is a great way to direct this growth upward rather than outward, giving your cucumbers the opportunity to thrive without disrupting their neighbours. Why Grow Them? As with most fruits and veggies, the main reason to grow them is because they’re delicious! Home-grown produce always manages to be that little bit more flavourful than their supermarket brethren. Perhaps it’s the organic growing methods, perhaps it’s just the psychological result of picking them with your own hands, but whatever it is, we’re confident these cucumbers will be noticeably better than anything store-bought. Even better, why not pickle a few cucumbers and give gifts of homemade pickles next Christmas? How To Grow Trellis Cucumbers With trellis-grown cucumbers you have two jobs: preparing your trellis, and planting out your cucumbers. We’ll start with the trellis – Building A Trellis When building your own trellis, you’ve got a lot of options. You can go for a simple metal mesh lashed to wooden or bamboo support canes, for instance. This is cheap, quick, and easy: all you need to do is plant the two supports, lean the mesh against them, and bind the two together with twine, wire, cable ties, or similar. If you’re feeling a little bit more DIY, you can build a wooden frame and run lengths of string between hooks on the upper and lower beams for the cucumbers to grow on. This method doesn’t need much more than some wood, a saw, a few nails, and a hammer. All you’ll be doing is cutting the wood to size, arranging it in a square shape, nailing it together, and erecting it. You can either use multiple frames to support each other, or leave the side pieces of wood longer than the others and bury the additional length below the ground for support. There are many other options, depending on how creative you’re feeling and which materials you’ve got to hand. You could lean two pieces of mesh against each other to create an A-frame and remove the need for support poles, for instance. Or you could even repurpose an old washing airer, drying rack, or similar piece of furniture to create a fabulous upcycled trellis. If you’re cultivating a rustic garden vibe, this last option definitely wins top marks. Where To Grow Once you’ve built a trellis, you need to find the right spot for it. Cucumbers love the sun, so try to find a sheltered spot that catches the full heat and light of the sunshine. Fertilising For the healthiest growth, work a couple of buckets of compost (or equivalent organic matter) through the soil. Your cucumbers will appreciate this nutrient boost, and should grow all the more enthusiastically for it. Starting Seeds While you can grow cucumbers indoors, this isn’t really compatible with trellis growing, so we’ve omitted that from this guide. When growing cucumbers outdoors, you’ll want to plant them directly into the ground in May or June – each seed should be sown to a depth of about 2cm. You can also start them off indoors and move outside after the last frost, which gives you the option of planting out established seedlings rather than new seeds. If you decide to do this, harden your baby cucumbers off for a few days before planting out properly, as they may struggle to survive out in the elements otherwise. It’s really important that you set up your trellises before planting out your cucumbers, as you are prone to squash the seeds and any fledgling sprouts if you do it the other way round. Guiding Vines While vining cucumbers grow very enthusiastically, they may need some assistance in attaching themselves to the trellises in the early stages. You can give them a hand by getting any stray vines and winding them gently around the trellis, which will hopefully encourage them to take hold. Check back often on any vines that are struggling to attach, keep giving them a hand, and eventually they’ll bind themselves tightly around the support. Try to avoid bending the vines, where possible – just aim to guide them gently. Watering Cucumbers are thirsty specimens, as you may have guessed by their high internal water levels! Water a couple of times a week in dry conditions, and keep a careful eye on soil moisture levels if it has been raining. You want to make sure that your cucumbers don’t go too long without a drink, as this can impact the health of your plant and the taste of the final product. “Cucumber plants need regular watering,” says Hannah Reid, a Gardener and Blogger. “Try to water the plant roots well every few days rather than a light water every day. “Avoiding watering the foliage of the plants too. Once they start to flower and fruit, I like to feed them weekly too.” Harvesting This is what it’s all about. When your cucumbers look healthy and are between 14 and 20cm long, you can cut them away from the vine with scissors, secateurs, or a knife. Try to use a sharp blade where possible rather than picking with your hands, as this will do less damage to the vines. Common Problems Cucumbers are prone to certain pests, unfortunately. On the upside, however, is that you can more easily see and identify these pests when they’re that much higher above ground level. Keep a careful eye on your cucumber plants, and if you see any of the following issues, take action immediately – Cucumber Mosaic Virus This vicious virus gives your cucumber leaves a mottled appearance and, more concerningly, impacts (or even removes) their ability to put forth flowers or fruit. If you notice this, immediately destroy any infected plants to prevent the spread. Wash your hands thoroughly before handling any other plants in your garden, cucumber or otherwise. Whitefly These sap-sucking little flies like to feast on the tasty sap in your cucumber’s leaves, and then leave their excrement in exchange. The excrement damages your plant and creates conditions that invite mildew, raising the likelihood of further damage. If you see small, white flies or larvae on your leaves, brush them off at first. If they return, buy a biological control product to remove them more permanently. Mildew If you find white blemishes on your cucumbers, it’s likely you’ve got mildew. This powder is a sign of an infection that damages the plant and harms further growth. To avoid, try to ensure your cucumber plants are always well-watered, but that the foliage of the plant remains dry by watering at the base. Aside from a few potential pests, trellis cucumbers are great fun to grow. From building the trellis, to coaxing the vines to take hold, to watching as your suspended vines burst into bloom, this plant is a real treat to behold. All that’s left now is to keep a watchful eye on them as they grow, harvest them when they’re ready, and enjoy their dainty deliciousness.
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Planting Rhubarb As A Fantastic Addition To A Low-Maintenance Food-Producing Garden
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Why Grow Rhubarb? Planting Rhubarb Companion Planting Rhubarb Plant Care References Rhubarb is a vegetable that often masquerades as a fruit – but it is far more than just that and can be a very useful addition to your garden. As a perennial vegetable, rhubarb can be a fantastic addition to a low-maintenance food-producing garden. Unlike annual and biennial crops, perennial vegetables like rhubarb will return to provide you with an edible yield year after year. Overview Botanical Name Rheum x hybridum Common Name(s) Rhubarb Plant Type Perennial Vegetable Native Area Cultivated Foliage Deciduous When To Sow January, February, March, October, November, December Commonly cultivated culinary rhubarb plants are classified as Rheum x hybridum. Interestingly, no one knows exactly how these modern culinary garden plants were bred, or their exact origins. Two different species – R. rhabarbarum and R. rhaponticum were grown in Europe prior to the 18th Century.1 By the early 18th century, these two species and a hybrid of unknown origin – R. x hybridum, were commonly cultivated as vegetable crops in the UK and elsewhere in northern Europe.2 The wild plants hybridise easily, and many cultivars have been developed. Culinary rhubarbs share a number of characteristics with their wild cousins, but have botanical distinctions. People often question whether rhubarb is a fruit – and botanically speaking, it is not. It is a vegetable because the part of the plant that we eat is the leaf stalks or stems, known as a petiole, not a fruit.3 However, in culinary settings, rhubarb is often treated like a fruit, since it is used to make sweet dishes in similar ways. Rhubarb has a strong, tart taste, and while the stems can also be eaten raw, they are usually cooked and mixed with sugar or other sweeteners to make pies, crumbles and other desserts or preserves. Why Grow Rhubarb? Rhubarb can be a useful way to enhance your homegrown fruit and vegetables. Growing perennial plants in general can be a very good idea – they bring a range of benefits for the garden including: You will need to do less work in sowing and planting. Perennial plants like rhubarb only need to be planted once and will last a number of years. While annual crops will involve work annually to continue to enjoy them in your garden. You’ll need to do less ongoing work maintaining soil too. Growing areas with perennial planting typically require far less care and weeding over time. You will also typically spend much less time watering or fertilising perennial crops than you will maintaining an annual garden over time. As a perennial vegetable, rhubarb can be a great thing to grow for all of the reasons outlined above – but more specifically, it can be a very useful garden plant. Rhubarb provides a yield during what was historically known as the ‘hungry gap’. This was the time between winter stores running low, and late spring / early summer harvests.4 So growing rhubarb means that you will have food from your garden all year – even during times when, historically, there is far less homegrown food available. This is especially true when the rhubarb is forced to bring forward the harvest. Planting Rhubarb Rhubarb will do best in a sunny location, which has fertile and moist yet free-draining type of soil. “I fess up – I’ve had to bend the rules on shade to get rhubarb to establish well,” says Master Horticulturist Peter Lickorish. “I find that in the sunniest spots, it tends to bake a little too much, whereas in partial shade, I find it is less likely to dry out. Even with generous watering, I’ve known this plant to have a near-unquenchable thirst. “That is true of the summer, whereas in the winter, sitting too wet would be a problem.” Make sure you do not place rhubarb in a frost pocket or an area that becomes waterlogged in the winter months. Young shoots emerging from rhubarb crowns. Rhubarb is usually grown from crowns – dormant rhubarb crowns will typically be planted between autumn and early spring. Position the rhubarb crown so that the very top of the crown just emerges from the soil surface. Generally speaking, it is best to leave a space of around 80cm between the plants. Rhubarb can also be grown in containers, as long as they are a minimum of 50 cm deep and 50 cm wide. When planting, it is a good idea to add a mulch of homemade compost or well-rotted manure around the plant. This will act as a slow-release fertiliser and retain soil moisture, but make sure you do not bury the crown or leave mulch piled closely around it or it can rot. You can also purchase pot-grown rhubarb plants throughout the year. These can be planted out at any time, but to avoid transplantation shock, it is best to avoid planting out on very hot or dry days in the summer. Companion Planting Rhubarb works very well as one of the plants in a perennial growing area with edible plants. It typically grows well beside other perennial plants – perennial alliums (chives and elephant garlic, for example). Rhubarb also has a scent said to repel whiteflies, and so it can be a useful companion plant for members of the cabbage family. This means it can work well in a perennial bed alongside perennial brassicas such as Daubenton’s kale, tree cabbage, and ewiger kohl, for example. Place strawberries close to rhubarb, since these will be beneficial as ground cover. They will spread to keep weed growth down and help retain soil moisture. A number of perennial aromatic herbs can also be beneficial as companion plants. Rhubarb Plant Care Make sure that the rhubarb gets enough water throughout the year, so the plant keeps growing right through to autumn. Make sure that you provide water during any dry spells. You can also consider optimising yield and vigour by adding a general-purpose organic fertiliser in March. Other than this, however, rhubarb really will require very little care. You have the option of forcing the rhubarb, but you do not have to do so. You can also divide a mature plant – allowing you to increase your yield over time. It can also be a good idea to remove the dead leaves when the plant dies back naturally in the autumn, and to clear debris around the crown. This will help make sure it is exposed to frost, which helps break dormancy and ensures a good crop of stalks the following year. “It is a favourite of the slug population in my garden in early spring, so using wool pellets as mulch is a good idea,” adds Peter. References 1. Mahr, S. (n.d.-j). Rhubarb, Rheum rhabarbarum. Wisconsin Horticulture. Retrieved March 23, 2023, from https://hort.extension.wisc.edu/articles/rhubarb-rheum-rhabarbarum/ 2. Rheum hybridum (rhubarb). (2022, January 7). CABI Compendium. Retrieved August 14, 2023, from https://doi.org/10.1079/cabicompendium.47109 3. Pettit, S. (2015, March 18). Rhubarb. Hatfield Peverel Allotment Association. Retrieved March 23, 2023, from https://www.hpaa.org.uk/index.php/vegetable-fruit-growing/275-rhubarb 4. What actually is The Hungry Gap? (2021, March 31). The Community Farm. Retrieved March 23, 2023, from https://www.thecommunityfarm.co.uk/news/what-actually-is-the-hungry-gap
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Growing And Harvesting Rocket: 'Sown Rocket Avoids The Problem Of Bolting'
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Habitat & Growing Conditions How To Grow Rocket Harvesting Rocket Common Problems References If you like pepper, spice, and leafy greens, Bingo! Your prize is Rocket, a plant whose leaves have a spicy, peppery kick. With a pleasant kick that can be variously peppery, spicy, tart, tangy, and even pungent, this leafy green is both a herb and a salad leaf. Rocket is the vernacular name for varieties of Hesperis matronalis, a flowering plant, Diplotaxis tenuifolia, a different but similar leafy green, and, indeed, nearly 20 other plants! Almost all of these ‘Rockets’ are edible leafy greens with a sharp flavour. As for Diplotaxis tenuifolia, it is a perennial that is called ‘Wild Rocket’ – it has a sharper, more intense flavour than Salad Rocket and its varieties. Overview Botanical Name Eruca vesicaria Common Name(s) Rocket, Arugula Plant Type Vegetable Native Area Mediterranean Hardiness Rating H4 Foliage Annual, doesn’t overwinter Flowers White flowers When To Sow April, May, June, July, August, September Harvesting Months June, July, August, September, October, November, December Plants of both genera, Eruca and Diplotaxis, are classified under Family Brassicaceae – the Mustard Family.1 It is little wonder that these plants’ leaves (and other parts as well) have the sharpness and pungency, to some or another degree, that we associate with mustard. This article concerns itself with both kinds of Rocket. Though Salad Rocket or Garden Rocket is the more widely-known and widely-grown, Wild Rocket is seeing an upsurge of interest. Habitat & Growing Conditions Rocket species are native to Italy and the Mediterranean regions; growing as far east as China.2 They, particularly Wild Rocket, are tough plants that can thrive in poor-quality soils. They colonise all kinds of ground so rapidly that they are considered weeds or invasive plants in some parts of the world, such as Australia and Arizona.3 These plants, having spread from their native regions, now grow readily in temperate locales. A halfway decent loam mix will be just fine for growing Rocket plants. For optimum results prepare loose soil with some organic manure. The soil should drain well. Soil pH may range from slightly acidic to slightly alkaline. The plant will grow well in full sun and also part shade. How To Grow Rocket Regular Salad Rocket plants in pots are widely available at nurseries and garden centres. Wild Rocket is also available, just not as widely. Seed packets of each are also found at garden centres. Seed packets of the more recent cultivars are available online at specialist seed merchants. You are sure to find a few pots of a couple of special varieties at a garden centre that has a good herb-and-veg focus. Growing Salad Rocket From Seed Salad Rocket can be sown in a heated frame from February and outdoors from April onwards. Whether you sow it in beds or pots, both the plant and its use lend themselves to successional sowing. It may be sown every two to three weeks for a continuous supply of fresh leaves through to autumn. If planting in a bed, sow seeds in rows. Cover seeds loosely with a layer of soil of about 0.5cm. Seeds should be sown 3-7cm apart and rows spaced about 30cm apart. If planting in pots, sow seeds two or three to a terracotta pot of about 25cm diameter. Give the freshly-sown seeds a good watering so that the soil becomes well wet. Watering Salad Rocket, an annual, can be a tricky balancing act. If plants are not watered well enough and the soil becomes dry, they will bolt (run to seed). On the other hand, keep watering them a little too well and the leaves will lose their kick and become bland. The trick is to keep the soil just moist. Weed the bed or pots as you normally would. As the seedlings grow, thin them so they are about 15cm apart or one to a pot – the thinnings should not find a place in your compost pile but on your kitchen table! If the weather gets hot and your plants are exposed, they must be protected from the hot afternoon sun otherwise the leaves will lose their tenderness and flavour. You can also start off Salad Rocket in autumn. “I find that autumn sown Rocket avoids the problem of bolting that can happen as a result of hot summer days, particularly as I grow mine in a greenhouse,” says Horticultural Consultant Colin Skelly. “Once Rocket has bolted, I find the taste too bitter, so avoiding this is crucial to my crop.” It can be grown indoors in pots in a sunny spot that gets sufficient sunlight through the morning, and can be grown outdoors if it is protected by horticultural fleece. Growing Wild Rocket From Seed Wild Rocket may be grown the same way except that as it is a perennial you do not need to worry about sowing it again the following year. They are also not prone to bolting. Grow as many plants as you need and then judiciously harvest leaves as you need them on a true ‘cut and come again’ basis. As long as a Wild Rocket plant is not severely harvested or over-harvested it will survive through the winter if it is protected with fleece or in a cloche, and continue supplying you with greens the following spring. Harvesting Rocket Leaves from plants are ready for picking about one month from sowing. Pick bigger, older leaves for a more intense taste and for cooking purposes; Rocket can be cooked like spinach. Pick smaller, newer ones for a gentler flavour for using raw in salads or as garnish. Pick two or three leaves from each plant, harvesting several plants at a time. Do not over-harvest a single plant. Flowering When you notice a plant putting out buds, you have a choice. Cut off the stalks to redirect the plant’s energies to the leaves, or allow the buds to bloom and then harvest the flowers for use in the kitchen. Likewise, you can also let the flowers wither into seed pods and then harvest the pods – both seeds and pods are edible. Finally, you can simply allow some selected plants to flower and then run to seed so that they self-seed; thus, your supply of Rocket plants and leaves will continue automatically. In hot and dry weather do not let the soil dry out and stay dried out, otherwise the leaves will have a harsh, bitter taste. Common Problems Rocket varieties are generally disease-free. The one pest you need to keep a watch for is flea beetle, particularly at the seedling and young plant stage. If you anticipate an attack by flea beetles you can try to head off the problem by growing the plants under fleece. Otherwise release beneficial predators such as ladybugs and ground beetles, or use safe organic sprays. Bolting is a particular problem with Salad Rocket though not with Wild Rocket – follow the guidance above to avoid bolting. In addition be sure that plants are not too close and are about 15cm apart or one to a pot. References 1. Eruca sativa (Brassicaceae(mustard family) in karnataka). (n.d.). iNaturalist. Retrieved March 23, 2023, from https://www.inaturalist.org/guide_taxa/338656 2. Eruca vesicaria. (n.d.). Kew Royal Botanic Gardens. Retrieved March 23, 2023, from https://powo.science.kew.org/taxon/urn:lsid:ipni.org:names:1137625-2 3. wall rocket, Diplotaxis tenuifolia. (n.d.). Invasive.org. Retrieved March 23, 2023, from https://www.invasive.org/browse/subinfo.cfm?sub=14695
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How To Grow And Harvest Spinach: This Crop Can Provide A Yield All Year Round
IN THIS GUIDE Overview ‘True Spinach’ Vs ‘Perpetual Spinach’ Why Grow Spinach? Common Varieties Where To Grow Spinach Companion Planting Spinach Plant Care Harvesting References Spinach is a core crop to include in your vegetable garden, whether you only have a small container garden, or extensive kitchen garden beds. It can be eaten raw in salads, as a steamed green, or in a range of other dishes – you can even consider adding it to your fruit smoothies and juices. Read on to learn more about this useful green vegetable, and how to grow and care for this crop in your vegetable garden. Overview Botanical Name Spinacia oleracea / Beta vulgaris subsp. vulgaris Common Name(s) Spinach Plant Type Vegetable Native Area Central & West Asia Hardiness Rating H4 Foliage Can overwinter with protection When To Sow March, April, May, August, September Harvesting Months Year-Round First of all, it is important to understand that there are a couple of different plants which are referred to as spinach. ‘True Spinach’ Vs ‘Perpetual Spinach’ The first is ‘true spinach’ – Spinacia oleracea – and the second is ‘perpetual spinach’ – Beta vulgaris subsp. cicla var. cicla. This is technically a chard, though it tastes very similar to a true spinach. Both can be excellent choices for your garden – but it is important to understand that they have somewhat different needs and requirements. True spinach is now known only in cultivation, but is believed to have originated in central and western Asia. Chard of the leafy spinach type is in the Cicla cultivation group, though within the same species as the Flavescens Group which includes stalk types of chard – like Swiss chard.1 True spinach is usually annual, while perpetual spinach is usually biennial; it also has summer varieties and winter varieties.2 Spinach is a crop which can be enjoyed year-round – but you do have to choose the right varieties/cultivars and sow and plant them at the right times. Perpetual spinach is typically a little easier to grow, and is highly recommended if you are interested in harvesting spinach from your garden practically all year round. Why Grow Spinach? Spinach – both true spinach and perpetual spinach have a great flavour. They are both great leafy vegetables to grow. This is a crop that can provide you with a yield all year round, and it is pretty easy to grow. To maximise yield from your garden, I would highly recommend that you consider growing both. Though if you have space only for one, then perpetual spinach will usually offer the best yields for the time and effort you expend. This is also the better choice, often, for less experienced gardeners. Spinach can be a great addition to polyculture planting schemes – it can work well to provide ground cover between taller growing crops, or to make the most of the space between slower growing crops. Common Varieties When choosing spinach, you will of course first have to decide whether you will grow true spinach, or perpetual spinach (or both). ‘Red Kitten’ For true spinach, some good varieties include: ‘Amazon’ – Sow in spring or autumn for overwintering. ‘Apollo’ – Sow outdoors March-August. ‘Matador’ – Sow in spring or autumn. ‘Medania’ – Again, can be sown in spring or autumn (with protection) ‘Missouri’ – Slow to bolt, good for spring sowing. ‘Red Kitten’ – Sow spring or early autumn (with protection). Red-veined F1 spinach. ‘Securo’ – spring sowing, potentially also August/September. ‘Winter Giant’ – for August/September sowing, for overwintering. There are also named varietals of perpetual spinach, including: ‘Erbette’ ‘Everglade’ Make sure that you choose varieties which are suitable for the time of year when you plan to sow. True spinach of F1/hybrid types can be more bolt-resistant – but choose heritage crops if you want to save your own seeds. Note that if you plan on saving seeds, perpetual spinach will cross readily with beetroots and chards. Perpetual spinach is biennial and usually flowers in its second year. If you want a variety to stay true to type you will need to isolate it with a physical covering. If you are interested in leafy greens, one other thing to note is that spinach is not your only option. Other interesting leaf vegetables that are similar to spinach but which you may not have considered include: Amaranths Belleville sorrel Fat hen / Goosefoot (Chenopodium) Orach Vegetable mallow (Malva crispa) And of course, related to perpetual spinach, there are plenty of other interesting chards to choose from to add variety to your garden and enjoy a range of crops for salads and cooked greens. Purple orach Where To Grow Spinach Spinach can be grown in containers, in raised beds, or in the ground. It is a flexible plant that can work well in a range of situations as long as its fertility and water needs are met. If soil conditions are poor, be sure to amend the area before planting by topdressing with a good-quality organic mulch of homemade compost or well-rotted manure. Summer spinach will do best when grown in a partially shaded spot. This can help to avoid the problem with ‘bolting’ – plants running prematurely to seed. However, spinach sown later in the year will do best in full sun conditions. Spinach and other leafy greens are ideal for growing in vertical gardens, planting towers, and other small space gardening solutions. One other interesting thing to note is that spinach is a leafy crop that can also do well when grown not in soil or growing medium, but in water. Spinach is one of the crops that you can consider growing in a number of different hydroponic or aquaponic water-based growing systems. Companion Planting When deciding where to grow spinach, you should think not only about the plant itself, its needs and local conditions. You should also be sure to think about the neighbours in the growing area. Companion planting can help you make the most of your garden space, and it can help you succeed in your spinach growing. The ‘Great GROW Experiment’ in 2018 was a citizen science project which investigated the benefits of growing climbing beans, spinach and radishes in polycultures together. 70% of the participants found that, overall, polycultures were significantly more productive.3 Largely, the beans were more productive for being grown with the spinach and radishes, but spinach and radishes also had slightly higher yields. Many other gardeners have reported success with growing spinach alongside other crops. Spinach is often grown intercropped with slower-growing Brassicas (members of the cabbage family) to make the most of the space. That includes plants like kale, broccoli, cabbages, cauliflower and kohlrabi. Radishes are another quick-growing crop that can work well alongside spinach, as can a variety of lettuce crops. Lettuce, radishes and spring onions are all quick and small space requirement crops that can work well alongside spinach in smaller beds or planters, or a container garden. Summer spinach will benefit from being grown under/between peas or beans. These crops fix nitrogen, and will also provide shade to prevent bolting in summer crops.4 Tomatoes can also be useful in providing shade for summer spinach, while the spinach can improve ground cover below tomatoes and reduce moisture losses. It is also said to grow well alongside celery, and alliums (members of the onion family, as well as alongside strawberries. It is said that spinach should not, however, be grown alongside grapes, or hyssop. Spinach Plant Care Caring for true summer spinach means making sure that there is good fertility in the growing area (low fertility may cause bitterness in the leaves) and that the growing area remains consistently moist. Maintaining water means keeping up watering during dry periods. It also means mulching around the crops with nitrogen-rich organic matter, and providing shade, which can also help to prevent bolting. Caring for later sown true spinach and perpetual spinach crops involves making sure your plants are protected from frost – either in an undercover growing area (greenhouse/ polytunnel) or under cloches, straw mulch etc. from October onwards. All spinach can be susceptible to birds, which may eat your crop. Where this is an issue, use a physical cover to protect your plants. To reduce the chances of spinach downy mildew in mild and humid weather, ensure good ventilation at all times and avoid overcrowding. Harvesting One of the great things about spinach is that you can begin to harvest baby leaves after as little as 6 weeks or so. You can harvest the leaves continually as and when you need them as soon as they are large enough to pick. Spring sown true spinach can be picked from May right through (providing they have not bolted) to October. While winter true spinach cultivars can be picked (though a little less prolifically) throughout the rest of the year. Perpetual spinach can be harvested and enjoyed all year round. “To harvest, cut leaves close to the base using scissors,” says Master Horticulturist Dan Ori. “You should find that early harvested leaves should come again for harvesting after 6 weeks. “I like to harvest from the outside into the centre to get the most out of each plant. “Spinach starts wilting almost instantly after being harvested and does not last long on the plant once matured, so I advise cutting when you are ready to use them straight away.” References 1. Chard. (n.d.). Wild Flower Finder. Retrieved March 24, 2023, from https://wildflowerfinder.org.uk/Flowers/C/Chard/Chard.htm 2. Spinach. (n.d.). Agriculture and Food Development Authority. Retrieved March 24, 2023, from https://www.teagasc.ie/crops/horticulture/vegetables/spinach-perpetual—veg-guide/ 3. The Great Grow Experiment. (n.d.). Permaculture. Retrieved March 24, 2023, from https://www.permaculture.org.uk/research/great-grow-experiment 4. Nitrogen Fixing Bacteria – Rhizobia. (n.d.). Tropical Permaculture. Retrieved March 24, 2023, from https://www.tropicalpermaculture.com/nitrogen-fixing-bacteria.html
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Growing And Tending To Highly Productive Asparagus With Horticulturist Dan Ori
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Why Grow Asparagus? Common Varieties How To Grow Asparagus Soil Requirements Polycultures Planting Crowns Tending Asparagus Common Problems Companion Planting Harvesting Asparagus Alternatives Asparagus is a perennial vegetable that can provide you with a useful, edible spring yield over a number of years. While most gardeners who grow their own will focus on annual and biennial crops, choosing some perennial edibles can also be an excellent idea. They are a great choice for low-maintenance gardens, and once established, typically require less care than most typical annual or biennial fruits and vegetables. Asparagus is a delicacy, prized for its delicate flavour. Though it will not be an ideal choice for all conditions, it can find a place in many UK gardens. Overview Botanical Name Asparagus officinalis Common Name(s) Asparagus Plant Type Perennial Vegetable Native Area Europe & West Asia Hardiness Rating H4 Foliage Deciduous Flowers Bell-shaped, greenish-white flowers When To Plant Crowns March Harvesting Months April, May, June Asparagus, also known as garden asparagus or Asparagus officinalis, to give it its official name, is a perennial herbaceous flowering plant in the genus of the same name. It is a common edible crop, and perhaps one of the best-known perennial vegetables. The young shoots of the plant are typically eaten as a spring vegetable. Asparagus has been cultivated as an edible crop for a very long time. Only the young and tender shoots are consumed, since once the buds begin to open, the shoots quickly become woody. Its short harvest season means that it has long been viewed as a delicacy, and highly prized. Why Grow Asparagus? Asparagus is useful as a vegetable that will return to provide edible shoots year after year. Choosing to plant asparagus is a long-term investment that can continue to add value in your garden for a long time to come. As a perennial, Asparagus is a low-maintenance plant, which you can more or less forget about over much of the year. Asparagus season is a highlight on the local food calendar here in the UK – and since asparagus can be expensive to buy, growing your own at home makes a lot of sense. Common Varieties Some common and highly regarded asparagus varieties for the UK include: ‘Guelph Millennium’ ‘Backlim’ ‘Connovers Colossal’ ‘Gijnlim’ ‘Pacific 2000’ How To Grow Asparagus Asparagus favours a sunny and open site, but can tolerate light, dappled shade. Soil Requirements It will thrive in light, open soils, that are well drained. While asparagus is not hugely fussy about soil type, in areas with a higher clay content in their soil, or heavy clay soil, may find this a plant that is more difficult to grow. Though even clay soil gardeners can grow asparagus in beds that have been amended to improve drainage with plenty of organic matter. Asparagus will prefer a soil with a PH in the region of 6.5-7.5, so if you have a more acidic soil, you will find asparagus cultivation more challenging. Liming will usually be required if you wish to grow asparagus on particularly acidic sites, but it may be better to consider other perennial vegetable options. Polycultures Asparagus was traditionally often grown in a dedicated asparagus bed. One issue with this, however, is that the bed will be underutilised and will remain free, with bare soil, for much of the year. One great alternative to this is to create polycultures, growing asparagus in the same bed as other plants that require similar growing conditions. Asparagus can be grown alongside other perennial crops, or grown within annual vegetable beds. We’ll explore this idea of companion planting a little later in this article. Planting Crowns Asparagus can be grown from seed, but it is more common to plant asparagus crowns. Asparagus crowds are one-year-old plants, which are typically purchased and planted towards the end of the dormant period. Asparagus crowns are usually planted in March or April. They are placed into growing areas that have been well prepared in winter early spring. To prepare for asparagus planting, you should make sure that the bed has been well mulched with organic matter, or that a living green manure or cover crop has been sown to protect the soil and suppress the growth of annual weeds over the winter months. If a cover crop or green manure has been used, the material will be chopped and dropped prior to planting the crowns. If the soil in the growing area is lacking in fertility, you can consider adding an organic fertiliser such as blood fish and bone to the area in early spring. To plant asparagus crowns: Dig a trench around 30cm wide and 20cm deep. Add well-rotted manure or homemade compost to the bottom of this trench, then cover the base with a 5cm layer of the soil that was excavated. In the centre of the trench, add a 10cm high ridge, and place the crowns on this ridge. Space the crowns around 30-40cm apart. Spread out their roots evenly and replace the rest of the soil, making sure that you leave the bud tips just visible above the soil surface. If you are making multiple rows, make sure these rows are at least 40cm apart. Once you have planted your asparagus crowns, mulch well around them with a 5cm layer of balanced, nutrient-rich, weed-free organic matter. Tending Asparagus Weeding Creating polycultures and ensuring good soil coverage with non-competing or minimally competing plants is the best way to reduce weed growth in an asparagus growing area. Any problem weeds that do pop up must be removed carefully by hand, because asparagus plants have shallow roots that can easily be damaged if you use a hoe. Frosts If a late frost threatens, protect plants with row covers or cloches to avoid frost damage on tender new shoots. Another thing to consider is that asparagus can also be grown undercover in a polytunnel or other undercover growing area. This can bring earlier harvests, and also avoid problems in colder regions. Watering Asparagus is known as a fairly drought-tolerant crop, but the plants will do best if the soil around them is consistently moist, though free draining. In dry conditions, be sure to water regularly during the summer months. Support In a less sheltered position, asparagus plants that have grown taller and feathery in the summer might need to be given some support to avoid damage. This support might be provided by other plants in a polyculture, or by man-made twig/cane and twine support structures. At the end of the summer, asparagus plants should be left to yellow and begin to wither before you cut them down to soil level. Common Problems Slugs & Snails Slugs and snails can be a problem – especially for young asparagus plants. The best way to control these pests in your garden is to make sure there are plenty of natural predators in your garden to eat them. Certain birds, amphibians, and mammals can all be beneficial – so make sure you plant as diversely as possible and create habitats to attract this wildlife to your garden. Asparagus Beetle Another common pest species that can plague asparagus is the asparagus beetle. Overwintering beetles can be destroyed by burning old stems at the end of the season, but companion planting may also help, to a degree at least, in preventing an infestation. And again, improving plant and wildlife biodiversity is key for integrated pest management in an organic garden. Companion Planting Tomatoes One of the best-known companion plants for asparagus is tomatoes. The tomato plant is said to be efficacious in repelling the asparagus beetle – and asparagus may aid tomato plants too, by repelling certain root nematodes that can affect tomato plants. The extent to which companion planting benefits can be proven varies, and often, recommendations are anecdotal, but many gardens report good results from this companion planting combination. In any case, planting tomatoes in the same bed as asparagus can help you make the most of the bed after the asparagus harvest and throughout the rest of the summer season. Basil & Parsley Planting basil and parsley around tomatoes and asparagus can also be beneficial. These plants too may help in repelling the asparagus beetle, and will create good ground cover to suppress weeds and retain moisture around tomato plants. Crop Rotation Of course, unlike asparagus, tomatoes and basil are annually grown crops, and tomatoes should be part of a crop rotation scheme. They should not be grown in the same bed year after year or pests and diseases can build up. Fortunately, asparagus can also fit in with other crops in rotation. For example, you can sow beetroots, lettuce and other leafy crops between asparagus rows in the spring, then successionally sow lettuce, spinach and other leafy greens beneath the taller asparagus fronds in the summer months. You can also include flowers in asparagus polycultures – borage, marigolds and nasturtiums, for example. Companion planting with other perennial plants also works well. For example, you could consider creating a perennial bed with asparagus, strawberries, rhubarb, horseradish, comfrey, and certain perennial herbs. Just make sure that you do not sow alliums (onions, garlic etc.) close to asparagus. And do not plant potatoes too close to asparagus, mostly since harvesting them will disrupt the shallow asparagus roots. Harvesting “An Asparagus plant can be highly productive for over 20 years, but they take a while to establish,” shares Master Horticulturist Dan Ori. “I recommend not harvesting in the first year and only lightly harvesting in the second year.” As Dan suggests, asparagus crowns sown in March or April should not be harvested for the first two years after planting, to allow the plants to become established. This may seem a long time to wait, but be patient. Remember, once you do begin harvesting, you can continue to do so for 10-15 years to come. After the first two years have elapsed, you can begin to harvest asparagus spears for a period of 8 weeks, usually from mid-April for outdoors grown plants. It is best to harvest shoots every 2-3 days in warm weather in order to obtain the best quality spears. Simply take a sharp knife and cut spears off just below the soil surface, when they are no more than 18cm tall. Asparagus Alternatives If you have a heavy clay soil, or are dealing with a more shaded site, then asparagus may not be the best perennial vegetable for your garden. Interestingly, there are a couple of different plants that might grow better in your garden that also provide edible shoots, and which are sometimes described as ‘poor man’s asparagus’. One is Chenopodium bonus-henricus (also known as ‘Good King Henry’). ‘Good King Henry’ This is a great forest garden plant, surviving well in dappled shade beneath fruit trees or in other perennial planting schemes in dappled or partial shade. Young shoots can be peeled and used just like asparagus, and young leaves can later also be eaten in moderation. Hops (Humulus lupulus) can also be grown in partial shade, and hops shoots are considered a delicacy. When young and green, these too can be sliced off and eaten in exactly the same way as asparagus.
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Growing Brussels Sprouts With Ade Sellars - A Useful Crop At The Coldest Time Of Year
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Why Grow Brussels Sprouts? Common Varieties How To Grow Brussels Sprouts Companion Planting Plant Care Harvesting References Brussels sprouts are one of those vegetables people either love or loathe. But for many, either way, they are considered an integral part of the traditional Christmas dinner and can be a useful part of the diet over the coldest part of the year. Like many other brassica crops, they can be a great addition to homegrown crops and are a good choice for those who want to grow their own all year round. Brussels sprouts are, admittedly, not the easiest brassica crop to grow, but they are a vegetable that even novice gardeners can take on. As long as you remember a few basic things, you should find that you are able to grow this crop successfully, wherever you live in the UK. Overview Botanical Name Brassica oleracea var. gemmifera Common Name(s) Brussels Sprouts Plant Type Vegetable Native Area Cultivated Hardiness Rating H4-H5 Foliage Large, green (edible) leaves When To Sow Indoors February to April Plant Out May to June Harvesting Months January, February, March, September, October, November Brussels sprouts are a leaf vegetable in the Gemmifera group of cabbage family plants (Brassica oleracea).1 As such, they are Brassicaceae (brassicas), also known as cruciferous vegetables. They have long been popular in Brussels, Belgium, from which city they take their name – it is believed that they were cultivated there from around the 13th century.2 Brussels sprouts can grow at any temperature between around 7-24°C. The greatest yields form at temperatures of around 15-18°C. Typically, Brussels sprouts are harvested and eaten between September and March. Brussels sprouts are a biennial plant, which completes its lifecycle over two years. Why Grow Brussels Sprouts? One of the main reasons to grow Brussels sprouts in your garden is that, like other brassicas or cruciferous vegetables, they are tasty and easy to grow. Many people dislike sprouts because they have only tasted them boiled to oblivion. But even those who think they dislike this vegetable may feel differently when they taste roasted sprouts, as cooking them in this way (and not overcooking) brings out their flavour in a different way. You may also be surprised by how much better sprouts taste when picked from the garden rather than being bought at a store. One of the other main reasons to grow Brussels sprouts at home is that they provide you with fresh homegrown vegetables in the coldest and darkest part of the year, when little else is available from an outdoors vegetable plot. Common Varieties There are a number of different varieties of Brussels sprouts ideal for UK gardens. Some good choices include: ‘Brodie’ ‘Clodius’ ‘Crispus’ ‘Doric’ ‘Igor’ ‘Maximus’ ‘Red Ball’ ‘Red Rubine’ ‘Roodnerf’ Some are F1, and some are heritage seeds. Most are green, though some, as the names suggest, have red and purple hues. How To Grow Brussels Sprouts Sowing Brussels sprouts are a crop that is typically sown from February until early April. Seeds are sown indoors, undercover in a greenhouse or polytunnel, under cloches or in a cold frame. Seeds should be spaced thinly, around 1-1.5cm deep. If sown directly into the soil, seedlings should be thinned to at least 7.5cm apart. Though seeds can germinate with temperatures as low as 4°C, germination rates will be highest at temperatures above 7°C. Planting Out Your Brussels sprout seedlings should then be transplanted to their final growing positions during May and early June, when your young plants will be 10-15cm tall, and have around 7 true leaves. Seedlings should be well watered before they are transplanted, then watered in well after they are placed into your vegetable garden. In most cases, you should aim to space your Brussels sprouts around 60cm apart. When choosing a location for Brussels sprouts, note that they can thrive in any sunny and sheltered position. They can cope with some light shade, but a sunnier site will provide better yields. Brussels sprouts can cope with a range of different soil types, but will do best in a rich soil, with a neutral to alkaline pH (above 6.5). Acidic conditions can increase the likelihood of problems with club root. Where the soil is affected with club root, growing in containers may be a better option. Before planting your Brussels sprouts, add plenty of organic matter, such as homemade compost or well-rotted manure, to the growing area. When planting, ensure that you firm the soil well around the plants, to make sure the root systems are not damaged by wind rock. “Planting them slightly deeper and burying their lowest leaves improves stability,” says Peter Lickorish, a Horticultural Lecturer and Gardening Technician at Bedford College. “Remember that these plants can be badly affected by wind-rock.” Companion Planting In an organic garden, it is always best to adopt a holistic and integrated approach. You should consider the different ways in which your crops can be combined and in which additional companion plants can be added to aid the sprouts, and the system as a whole. Of course, it is common to sow Brussels sprouts in the same bed as other brassica crops. Planting these in the same growing area will make it easier to maintain a crop rotation system and make sure brassicas are not grown in the same bed year after year. Of course, other brassicas like similar conditions, so can grow well in the same area. Unfortunately, though they can be good companions, brassicas share pests and diseases. This means that it is not a good idea to grow exclusively brassicas in one bed. For integrated pest management in an organic garden, you should grow brassicas alongside other companion crops. Mustard, which is another brassica, can act as a trap crop when grown close by. But for pest management, you should also consider sowing Brussels sprouts alongside, for example: Onions Leeks Garlic Aromatic herbs (mint, thyme, rosemary, sage, dill etc..) Marigolds Nasturtiums Geraniums Since Brussels sprouts require a wide spacing, and are fairly slow to mature, it also makes sense for companion plants to take up the spaces between your plants as they grow. Try planting these fast-growing vegetables between your Brussels sprouts to make the most of the space: Carrots Beetroot Radishes Lettuce Spinach As nitrogen-hungry plants, Brussels sprouts may also benefit from growing legumes, such as peas, as companion crops.3 Avoid planting strawberries close to Brussels sprouts, however, as strawberries can suppress their growth. You should also avoid planting Brussels sprouts too close to other heavy feeders, such as squash, sweetcorn, tomatoes, peppers, and potatoes – and any other members of the nightshade family. Plant Care Watering Water Brussels sprouts every 10-14 days in dry weather. Water plants at the base, and make sure you have mulched around the plants to retain moisture in the soil, particularly during the warmest summer months. Fertilisation As nitrogen-hungry plants, brassicas like Brussels sprouts will benefit from a nitrogen-rich organic mulch. And will also appreciate the addition of a high-nitrogen organic fertiliser (such as dried chicken manure pellets, for example) after midsummer. You might also choose to make a nitrogen-rich liquid plant feed to give the plants a boost around July. “You could make this feed by brewing a plant nettle tea, leaving nettle leaves in a sealed container of water for around 6 weeks,” says Peter. Pest Protection Brussels sprouts, like other brassicas, are susceptible to pests – most common and notable among these are the caterpillars of cabbage white butterflies, and birds. Birds (like pigeons for example) can quickly eat up an entire crop if they are not protected. It is a good idea to place netting over Brussels sprouts and other brassica, which is sturdy enough to prevent birds from eating your crop, yet has a fine enough mesh to keep off butterflies and prevent them from laying their eggs on your crops from which caterpillars will emerge. Though companion planting will aid with pests to a degree, sometimes a physical barrier will be required. This should be in place from May to September. Support Around September, it can be a good idea to mound up the earth around your tall Brussels sprout plants, to provide them with a little more support before autumn winds and stormier, wilder weather arrives. “It may be easiest to make a box-shaped frame, around 1-1.5m high, around your plants,” shares Peter. “This can support netting at a far enough distance away from plants, to prevent egg-laying and pecking through the mesh. “The frame can be held up by canes or stout poles, to which the plants can be tied for support.” Harvesting Brussels sprouts are usually harvested from September through to March. It is worth noting, however, that Brussels sprouts are one of a number of vegetables which taste better after the first frosts. The cold triggers metabolic processes through which starches break down into plant sugars – so Brussels sprouts that have been exposed to frosts and freezing temperatures will taste a little sweeter than those that have not. Start by harvesting the lowest sprouts on the stem when they are tightly closed, firm and around the size of a walnut. Snap each one off with a sharp tug downwards – you can leave the plants standing in your garden and take a few more sprouts as and when they are required over the winter. References 1. Brassica oleracea (Gemmifera Group). (n.d.). North Carolina Extension Gardener Plant Toolbox. Retrieved March 13, 2023, from https://plants.ces.ncsu.edu/plants/brassica-oleracea-gemmifera-group/ 2. Brussels Sprout. (n.d.). DPI. Retrieved March 13, 2023, from https://dpi.wi.gov/sites/default/files/imce/school-nutrition/pdf/fact-sheet-brussels-sprout.pdf 3. Companion Planting Guide. (n.d.). First Tunnels. Retrieved April 25, 2023, from https://www.firsttunnels.co.uk/page/Companion-Planting-Guide
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