Growing
Grow Spicy Cayenne Peppers With These Little Known Care Tips From Peter Lickorish
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Why Grow Cayenne Peppers? Cayenne Varieties How To Grow Cayenne Peppers Cayenne Pepper Care Harvesting Cayenne Peppers References If you like heat in cooking, Cayenne peppers could be a good crop to grow. Cayenne peppers are a type of chilli pepper, Capsicum annuum. It is related to other types of peppers including jalapenos, pimientos and bell peppers. As part of the Capsicum genus, these peppers are all within the Solanaceae or nightshade family – which means that they are also more distantly related to tomatoes, potatoes, aubergines and more.1 Overview Botanical Name Capsicum annuum Plant Type Fruit / Vegetable Native Area American subtropics and tropics Hardiness Rating H1C Foliage Annual crop Flowers Small white flowers from which fruits form When To Sow (Indoors) January, February, March, April, May, June Harvesting Months July, August, September They are a short-lived perennial in their native subtropical and tropical climes, but in temperate climate zones like the UK, are usually grown as an annual crop. The fruits of these plants are mostly skinny and red, with a curved tip, though there are also some yellow and purple fruited cultivars. Interestingly, these fruits hang from the stems of the plant, rather than growing upright like some other chilli pepper varieties. Spiciness & Flavour There are a number of different named cultivars of Cayenne peppers, which are prized for their spiciness and flavour. Scoville heat units are used to describe the heat of chilli peppers and most varieties of Cayenne pepper fall within the range of 30,000-50,000 Scoville heat units.2 This puts them more or less in the middle of the range when it comes to pungency. While most Cayenne peppers are moderately hot, there are some milder variants. The fruits are often dried and powdered to create cayenne powder, which is used in pest control, and in many spicy dishes. Why Grow Cayenne Peppers? Growing spicy chilli peppers is a must for those who like heat in their cooking. Cayenne peppers may also repel certain insect pests while in active growth – and the powder is sometimes sprinkled as a deterrent to rodents around winter or early spring crops. Cayenne Varieties C. annuum ‘Cayenne Red’ C. annuum var. annuum ‘Ring of Fire’ C. annuum var. annuum (Longum Group) C. annuum var. annuum ‘Golden Cayenne’ C. annuum ‘Cayenne Sweet’ And a few more interesting types that may be of interest to grow: C. chinense ‘Carolina Reaper’ C. annuum var. annuum ‘Chocolate Bell’ C. annuum ‘Las Cruces Cayenne’ How To Grow Cayenne Peppers Cayenne peppers are typically grown in climates much warmer than our own. Temperature To grow them successfully here in the UK, you will usually have to grow them indoors or undercover in a greenhouse or polytunnel. Though this species sometimes tolerates a little light frost, they will not normally do well outside in a typical British summer. Occasionally, however, in warmer, southern parts of the country, it may be possible to grow outdoors in a very warm, protected and sheltered spot. Soil Requirements Cayenne peppers, like other peppers, grow best in a moist yet free-draining sandy or loamy soil, which is slightly acidic. They can also be grown in pots as long as these are filled with a moist yet free-draining, relatively fertile growing medium. Companion Planting In terms of companion planting, some good plants to grow with cayenne are said to include aubergines, okra and basil – in fact, any aromatic herb would make for ideal bedfellows – as well as working in harmony in the kitchen. Peppers can be planted alongside tomatoes, but as joint members of the Nightshade family, a well-adhered crop rotation plan is necessary, to prevent issues with diseases that these two plants share in common. You should include as many different companion plants as possible when growing tomatoes and peppers together in the same planting scheme. Sowing Cayenne Seeds Like other peppers, Cayenne peppers are best sown indoors in the UK early in the year to ensure a worthwhile crop by the end of our relatively short growing season. The challenge with this is that you will have to make sure that you provide enough heat for seeds to germinate. You will also need to ensure that the indoors grown seedlings get enough heat, water and light before the weather warms and you can move them to their final growing position (perhaps in a greenhouse or polytunnel). As a rough rule of thumb, pepper seeds, along with tomato seeds, are usually sown around 6-8 weeks before the last frost date in your area. Remember, a greenhouse or polytunnel may be reliably frost-free a few weeks before the rest of your garden, so you may be able to sow a little earlier if you will be growing undercover. It is important to make sure that you provide high enough temperatures for germination to take place. All pepper seeds will typically need consistent temperatures of between 18-25°C for the best germination rates, and will not usually germinate at all if temperatures fall below 16°C. It can be a good idea to use a heated propagator, or to provide some gentle bottom heat to ensure that you get the best results when sowing seeds. After sowing your seeds in a suitable seed-starting potting mix, the seeds should germinate within around 2-3 weeks. Legginess Seedlings can become leggy in low light conditions, so it may be beneficial to use grow lights when sowing early indoors. Prick out the pepper seedlings once they become large enough to handle, then place them into their own individual pots. Water your Cayenne pepper seedlings consistently but do not overwater – keep them in as bright a spot as possible until you can harden off your young plants and, if not continuing to grow indoors, plant them out into your greenhouse or polytunnel. Planting Cayenne Peppers Hold off placing your Cayenne pepper plants into an unheated greenhouse or polytunnel until you are certain that all risk of frost has passed (at least within the structures). If a late frost or cold temperatures are suddenly forecast, you can consider protecting the plants with additional cloches or row covers. If growing in the ground or a raised bed, peppers should be planted around 40-60cm apart in a row, or 1 per square foot in a denser polyculture planting scheme – though these spacing suggestions are just guidelines and spacing can differ depending on your specific approach. Be sure to consider companion planting and crop rotation when deciding where to place your peppers – and protect the soil around the plants by mulching around your planted peppers with an organic mulch. A mulch of balanced homemade compost, for example, will get your Cayenne peppers off to a good start. Cayenne Pepper Care Cayenne peppers must be cared for carefully and like other peppers, can be rather fussy plants. One key thing to always remember is that the temperatures in the growing area must remain consistently above around 16-18°C for optimal results. You need to aim to provide as much sun and warmth as possible to reap a good harvest. Inconsistent temperatures can easily cause checks in growth and a range of other issues. Watering Another very important thing when it comes to caring for Cayenne peppers is water. The soil or growing medium must be kept consistently moist, but overwatering is not the solution as this can also cause issues. I find that issues with watering are often the cause of most problems when it comes to a pepper crop – so it is important to get into a good routine with watering, whilst not being too overbearing. Use your finger to check the moisture levels in the soil before watering; I have had a lot of success preventing waterlogging of the roots by bottom-watering with the use of trays. Feeding Like other peppers and tomatoes, Cayenne peppers will benefit from the slow-release fertiliser (and moisture control) of an organic mulch. As well as adding a mulch of compost or similar on planting, you should also consider adding a potassium-rich mulch of comfrey or other potassium-rich plant matter once the flowers and fruits begin to form. Feeding with a comfrey tea or other potassium-rich liquid feed during flowering and fruiting can also be beneficial – especially when growing Cayenne peppers in containers. Pruning A branched pepper plant is usually one that crops well,” says Peter Lickorish, Master Horticulturist. “To achieve branching, when young plants reach around 20-30cm high, cut or pinch out the top pair of leaves and growing tip. This will make the plant fork. “Producing flowers too early can also suppress growth longer term, so pinch off any flowers below 20-30cm high, as the plant establishes. “Gently tie in growing plants to canes, using a figure-of-eight loop of soft string, to help them carry a heavy crop of fruit.” Common Problems Aphids and scale can be common problems with pepper plants, especially those grown indoors or undercover. If growing indoors, it will be challenging to get rid of these through natural predation, though in a greenhouse or polytunnel, make sure the doors are open and you are attracting ladybirds and other beneficial insects to the space. With an extreme problem, you might consider using biological controls. These are natural predators or species which will harm the pests, and targeted types can be bought online. Fungal diseases like grey mould can also affect cayenne plants. Make sure you are watering correctly, and reduce high humidity by avoiding overcrowding and improving ventilation. Remain vigilant and remove any damaged plant parts before healthy tissue can become infected. Harvesting Cayenne Peppers Cayenne peppers will usually be ready to harvest from around 70-80 days after sowing, though of course this can vary depending on the precise conditions. Generally, you may begin harvesting ripe fruits around midsummer and can often continue to do so well into autumn. With Cayenne peppers, unlike with some other chilli peppers, you will not usually harvest the fruits at an immature stage but will wait until they are fully red (or reach their final colour for other varieties). You can then dry your Cayenne peppers in a dehydrator or in your oven – and grind the dried fruits into a powder that can be used in a wide range of different recipes. References 1. Capsicum annuum. (n.d.). PFAF Plant Database. Retrieved March 14, 2023, from https://pfaf.org/user/Plant.aspx?LatinName=Capsicum+annuum 2. cayenne chile pepper database. (n.d.). The Chileman. Retrieved March 14, 2023, from https://www.thechileman.org/results.php?chile=1&find=cayenne&heat=Any&origin=Any&genus=Any&subscribe=Search;
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Growing And Harvesting Sweetcorn In The Garden - 'Only Grow One Variety Each Year'
IN THIS GUIDE Overview How To Grow Sweetcorn Ongoing Plant Care Harvesting Common Problems References Sweet corn is a yellow vegetable, and the word refers both to the cob, and the kernels that grow on it. Dig a little below the surface-level and the properties of sweet corn are actually quite interesting. This crop is a variety of grain maize, known for its particularly high sugar content arising from a natural genetic mutation that encourages the production of more sugar.1 This means that humans have evolved to pick corn before it reaches full maturity and eat it as a vegetable, rather than letting it mature into a grain.2 “Sweetcorn is a big favourite of mine when it comes to vegetables because it tastes so good fresh from the garden,” says Garden Writer Janice Shipp. Overview Botanical Name Zea mays Common Name(s) Corn Plant Type Vegetable / Annual Native Area Americas Hardiness Rating H2 Foliage Annual blade-shaped leaves Flowers Tassels When To Sow Indoors April, May Plant Out June, July Harvesting Months July, August, September, October A grilled corn on the cob with a crack of salt and a coating of melted butter is amongst the most satisfying and enjoyable dishes we can think of. Using a corn you’ve grown yourself, with its especially sweet and delicious flavour, takes the dish to another level. “One of my favourite things I have growing right now is sweetcorn,” shares Jenny Thompson, Allotment Grower. “I am pretty good at growing it too! “However, I only grow one variety each year, as sweetcorns are wind pollinated and if you have different varieties near each other, they are likely to cross-pollinate and produce something different to what you were expecting.” Corn’s tall and distinctive aesthetic makes an attractive addition to your garden, and the crop offers flexibility in the number of varieties available. Taking time to choose the right variety lets you grow corn whose flavour profile best aligns with your palette. “Sweet corns are fascinating plants and they can do some seemingly odd things, but these have perfectly simple explanations,” shares Horticulturist Peter Lickorish. “Firstly, roots are likely to jut out from above ground, near the base of the plant. It is a widely accepted view that these prop roots are there to provide additional support to tall plants as braces against windy conditions. “Also, sweetcorn cobs may sometimes appear gappy, like a toddler’s set of teeth. “This is a sign that there is poor pollination, so consider growing more plants in a grid layout next year.” How To Grow Sweetcorn In the sections below we provide step-by-step information on how to grow your own bumper crop of sweet corn. While you may be used to seeing fields upon fields of corn growing, it’s also possible to grow a few plants in your garden – so don’t be put off if you don’t have much space! Where To Grow Before planting your corn, find a good spot and enrich the soil with compost or other organic matter. Dig this through the soil well to maximise the nutrients available to the corn, potentially even adding a fertiliser that’s high in potassium. Corn grows best in a spot that gets plenty of sunshine, and while they require wind to assist with pollination, try to choose somewhere that’s sheltered from the worst of the elements. You want your corns exposed to a gentle and regular breeze rather than strong winds that can build up speed in open spots. “I plant my cobs in grid formation to aid the chance of good pollination but I don’t leave pollination to chance,” says Jenny. “Once the tassel on the top of the plant appears, I pick one off and tickle all the silks with it, thereby transferring pollen to where it needs to be. “Incredibly, each individual silk is attached to one individual kernel and each silk must receive a grain of pollen for that kernel to be fertilised. “Ever peeled back a home-grown cob only to find some plump yellow kernels and some gnarly pale-looking ones? The gnarly ones didn’t get pollinated, so trust me, tassel tickling is the way to go.” If you’re growing squash you can also grow your sweet corn amongst it, as the two plants complement each other well by taking different things from the soil. Native American farmers were renowned for growing ‘three sisters’, which is corn, squash, and beans grown in a symbiotic arrangement.3 If you’re feeling particularly adventurous you could try out this method! Sowing For best results, sow your sweet corn seeds into pots in a greenhouse or a cold frame or similar. Doing so gives you a head start when compared to sowing directly outdoors, as you can shelter the seedlings from harsher temperatures. If you decide to sow this way you can begin growing your corn around a month before the last frost! “This will usually be from early April, but it is worth considering in colder springs that they will need around 18°C to germinate,” adds Peter. Pop some soil into small containers, then push seeds an inch down below the surface. Corn is not fussy with soil types: any potting compost should do the trick. Sow two seeds beside each other, then remove the weaker seedling before the next step. Planting Out Once your corns are about six inches high, they’re strong enough to make the transition outdoors. Ideally you’d harden them off before planting them out, and doing this is easy. Just leave the plants outside for short periods of time in the week before you plan to plant them, with the periods gradually getting longer. If you’ve got a cold frame this is the perfect space for hardening off corn. While many crops grow best in rows, we recommend planting out corn in blocks using a grid layout, as this gives it the best chance at pollination. Corn is pollinated by wind, and placement in a block increases the spores’ chance to spread. If your crops aren’t able to pollinate enough they’ll still grow, but you’ll have fewer cobs. Look to plant your corns about 18 inches from each other in all directions. To plant, remove from the pot, tussle the roots to loosen everything up, then pop into individual holes. Once a corn is in its hole, firm up the soil around the base of each plant to keep it secure. Ongoing Plant Care Fertilising As well as preparing the soil before planting your corn, we advise on mulching the soil at the base of your plant with garden compost while growing. This will help to retain moisture and to reduce weed coverage. “Doing this with fresh garden compost, at the end of a damp spell of weather, is particularly effective,” says Peter. Watering In dry weather make sure to water your corn plants frequently. This is especially important when the plants are flowering, as this is when they’re at their thirstiest. Weeding Corn is just as prone to weeds as any other plant, although hopefully mulching should help to reduce their number. If you use a hoe to help with your weeding, go carefully. Corn has shallow roots and hoeing too aggressively can damage the crop along with the weeds. Harvesting Corn is ready for harvesting when its tassels turn brown and darken. This usually occurs a few weeks after they initially appear. The physical act of harvesting is quite easy: either pull or twist the corn away from the stem. If pulling isn’t working, a gentle twist should help. To test whether your corn is ready, there’s a test you can do before removing the cob from the plant: Simply peel back part of the sheath and press a fingernail into a kernel. If the liquid inside is creamy in colour, the corn is ready to go. If the liquid is watery it’s not quite ready yet. And if there’s no liquid you’ve left it too late! Once harvested, remove the sheaths from your cobs and cook as soon as possible. Many gardeners swear that the best taste is achieved by cooking almost instantly after harvest. If you’re not planning to eat it immediately however, we recommend refrigerating before removing the sheaths. “It is also important not to prune the tops of sweetcorn plants, as this is where the male flowers form, which pollinate the female flowers lower down, to form cobs,” says Peter. Common Problems Sadly, corn is very appealing to all manner of garden pests including mice, birds, and creepy crawlies. Here’s how to deal with some of these pesky visitors: Mice “To keep mice off of seeds until they’ve germinated, consider using a mesh, such as that used to bag oranges,” says Peter. “This can form a sock around the pot to keep hungry mammals at bay.” Birds While you don’t want to catch birds in a mousetrap, you do want to deter them from eating your corns. The best way to stop these flying critters from ravaging your crop is to cover it with a material that lets in air and sunlight but keeps out beaks. Fleece or mesh are good bets. Slugs & Snails Whatever you’re growing, it’s likely you’ll have to contend with these menaces. There are many ways to deter them including sacrificial crops designed to distract them and other less savoury solutions! We hope that this guide has been helpful in showing you just how easy corn is to grow, and we hope that you’ll soon be enjoying the fruits of your industry. References 1. Sweet corn growing. (n.d.). NSW Government. Retrieved March 14, 2023, from https://www.dpi.nsw.gov.au/agriculture/horticulture/vegetables/commodity-growing-guides/sweet-corn 2. Is corn a grain or a vegetable? (n.d.). AskUSDA. Retrieved March 14, 2023, from https://ask.usda.gov/s/article/Is-corn-a-grain-or-a-vegetable 3. The Three Sisters of Indigenous American Agriculture. (n.d.). National Agricultural Library. Retrieved March 14, 2023, from https://www.nal.usda.gov/collections/stories/three-sisters
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Parsnips: Grow This Wonderful Root Vegetable In A Sunny And Open Site
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Parsnip Varieties How To Grow Parsnips Parsnip Plant Care Common Problems References Parsnips are not everyone’s favourite, but grow them correctly and they are truly delicious – a wonderful root vegetable to add to your home-growing repertoire. They are great for home growers – they are pretty easy to grow, and won’t require a lot of care. But as with any vegetable, as a gardener you need to know what they like, and what they don’t – you need to make the right decisions when it comes to the varieties you grow, where you grow them, and how you care for them in your garden. Overview Botanical Name Pastinaca sativa Plant Type Vegetable / Biennial Native Area Europe to central Siberia Hardiness Rating H5 Foliage Segmented pinnate leaves Flowers None Harvesting Months January, February, September, October, November, December Parsnips are a root vegetable that is related quite closely to carrots and parsley. This crop is usually grown as an annual, though like carrots and parsley, it is actually a biennial plant, which would typically complete its full lifecycle (from germination to setting seed) over two years. Parsnips are native to Europe through to Central Siberia and this plant has long been cultivated as an arable crop.1 Parsnips can be used like carrots and other root crops, though when cooked they can have a very sweet taste – especially after they have been touched by frost and the plant starches have begun to break down. The type of parsnip grown in gardens today is a cultivated type, which derives from the wild parsnip. Parsnip Varieties There are a number of named cultivars of parsnip available to gardeners in the UK. ‘Hollow Crown’ Some good varieties to consider are: ‘Albion’ (AGM) ‘Archer’ ‘Halbange’ ‘Hollow Crown’ ‘Gladiator’ (AGM) ‘Palace’ ‘Pearl’ (AGM) ‘Picador’ (AGM) ‘Tender and True’ ‘White Gem’ The varieties marked AGM have been assigned the RHS Award of Garden Merit, meaning they have undergone trials and have been assessed to perform reliably. ‘Gladiator’ How To Grow Parsnips Parsnips grow best in a sunny and open site with at least 6 hours of sun daily, but can also tolerate partial shade. Most commonly, they are grown in traditional annual vegetable gardens – in raised beds or in the ground – but they can also be grown in pots or containers as long as these are sufficiently deep. Parsnips can also be grown in fruit tree guilds, or the fringes of a forest garden. I grow them as part of my forest garden and find this can be beneficial because when you leave some of the roots in the ground until their second year, the plants will flower and can attract a range of beneficial predatory insects. They can therefore be helpful in organic pest control and can help keep fruit trees safe. Soil Requirements As root crops, parsnips need deep and moist yet free-draining, light and well-aerated soil. One thing to note is that soil that is overly fertile can encourage the roots to fork – so while you should make sure an area is smooth and without stones, you should avoid adding compost or manure in the area where you plan to place them before sowing. Companion Planting Personally, I like to sow parsnips in the same bed as carrots and onions. Not only do they like similar conditions, planting these crops together also makes crop rotation easier and the onions help to keep carrot flies confused – and your crops safe. Leeks and other long-season alliums can also work well in the same growing area. Annual flowers can also make good companion plants for parsnips (these also repel, confuse or distract carrot flies and other pests with their strong scent). Think about annual field meadow plants, like poppies, cornflowers etc. since these can also thrive in an area that is not overly fertile. Strong aromatic herbs like rosemary or sage, for example, can also be placed close to parsnips, and could help in organic pest control. Avoid planting parsnips near fennel, since fennel can have an allelopathic effect on a number of other plants growing close by.2 Parsnip Plant Care Parsnips do have a long growing season and will remain in place in your garden for a long time, so this is something to consider. The good news is, however, that they will not require a huge amount of care over the course of the year. Once your parsnip seeds have germinated, and the seedlings are around 2-3cm tall, thin them to give an eventual spacing of around 10-15cm between plants for good-sized roots. Watering Parsnips do not have overly high water needs. Usually, they will not require a lot of watering unless the weather over the summer is particularly dry. Giving parsnips a good soak every 2-3 weeks in dry conditions will usually be sufficient. Feeding As mentioned above, parsnip roots can fork in overly fertile growing conditions, meaning parsnips should not usually be fed at all. However, it can be a good idea to mulch between your parsnip rows with compost in the early summer. This provides some fertility and gives your crop a boost. It will also bring the added benefit of suppressing weeds, which is generally the more important consideration. Weeding Weeding can be very important when it comes to parsnips, and is really the main job when it comes to their care. Make sure you keep the area around them weed-free – especially while the seedlings are still small. Parsnips are slow-growing and can easily be smothered by more vigorous weeds. “It is common to use a technique called inter-cropping when growing parsnips where a quick-growing crop such as radishes is grown in between rows of parsnips,” shares Roy Nicol, a Master Horticulturist. “By the time the parsnips have germinated the quick crop is ready to be harvested.” Common Problems Parsnip is not usually too troubled by pests, but one problem that can occur is carrot fly. Companion planting, as mentioned above, can usually protect your parsnips from this pest. Parsnip Canker Parsnip canker is another thing to look out for – this is a rot which starts at the top of the root with brown, orange or purple discolouration. It is usually caused by water issues, overly rich soil conditions, or damage to the growth of the plant. Make sure you avoid damaging the roots, don’t sow too early, water correctly and make sure the soil is healthy but not overly fertile and you should be less likely to see this issue. If this is a persistent issue in your garden, consider growing more resistant cultivars like ‘Archer’. As you can tell from the above, parsnips are a great choice for novice gardeners and are relatively easy to grow. Why not try growing some for your Christmas dinner and other delicious winter meals? References 1. Parsnips: Overview. (n.d.). Science Direct. https://doi.org/10.1016/b978-0-12-384947-2.00714-5 2. Nourimand, M., Mohsenzadeh, S., Da Silva, JAT., & Saharkhiz, MJ. (2011, June). Allelopathic Potential of Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare Mill.). ResearchGate. Retrieved March 22, 2023, from https://www.researchgate.net/publication/283712660_Allelopathic_Potential_of_Fennel_Foeniculum_vulgare_Mill
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Mangetout: How To Grow This Excellent Crop Vertically, Even In A Small Space Garden
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Why Grow Mangetout? Mangetout Varieties How To Grow Mangetout Mangetout Care Common Problems Harvesting Mangetout References Mangetout are an excellent crop to grow in a small space garden. These are pea varieties where you eat pods and all before the seeds develop. They can crop prolifically and provide a far greater yield than podding peas, which can make them a great choice for a smaller garden. Eaten straight from the plant, or used in salads or other recipes, they are a delicious crop to grow yourself at home. Overview Botanical Name Pisum sativum Common Name(s) Mangetout, Snow Peas, Sugar Snap Peas Plant Type Annual Vegetable Native Area Cultivated Hardiness Rating H2-H4 Foliage Annual, some varieties can overwinter with protection Flowers White, edible flowers When To Sow February, March, April, May, June, September, October Harvesting Months June, July, August, September, October Mangetouts are peas which are eaten pods and all – the name, in French, literally means ‘eat all’.1 While the pods of all peas are edible, those from shelling pea varieties can be stringy, and not necessarily as pleasant or palatable as varieties that are specifically mangetout. In the US and elsewhere, mangetout peas are typically described as ‘snow peas’ and ‘snap peas’. Sugar snap peas are usually those with a rounder pod and crunchier texture. Mangetout peas can be eaten as flat pods, like those described as snow peas elsewhere – or they can be eaten with peas in the rounded pods, like sugar snap peas. All mangetout, snow peas and snap peas, like typical shelling garden peas, are known botanically as Pisum sativum. These are simply varieties of this annual plant that have been bred for tender and sweet, delicious pods. Both snow peas and snap peas, also described as mangetout, are within the Macrocarpon genra of Pisum sativum – P. sativum var. Macrocarpon.2 Why Grow Mangetout? Mangetout are a high-yielding and low-effort crop, perfect for gardeners old and new – peas are a staple crop in many UK gardens. However, peas that are shelled from their pods often do not deliver a high yield for the space they take up. Shelling peas are removed from their pods when mature, so pods and plants are all simply composted, often leaving little more than a few handfuls of peas. When growing mangetout, however, you get more ‘bang for your buck’. Harvesting the pods early and often encourages more flowers and pods to form, so you can get a lot more from one pea plant. High Yields Since you are eating the pods too, you will yield a higher weight of produce overall, and therefore, eat more of the plant. Mangetout also save you the labour of shelling, which can take up a lot of time if you grow a lot of peas – this can therefore be a better choice for a lower maintenance and less time-consuming garden. Mangetout peas can also be harvested and out of the garden sooner, making way for other crops. Nitrogen Fixing Like other peas, they are nitrogen-fixing plants, which can be used in crop rotation plans, and to maintain fertility in an organic garden. One downside of mangetout is that since you harvest before maturity, you will not usually be able to save the seeds for next year. However, leave one plant in place and allow some pods to fully mature, and you can still save seeds and become more self-sufficient in your garden. Like shelled peas, mangetout can also be frozen to preserve them for the months to come. Mangetout Varieties ‘Carouby de Mausanne’ There are a range of mangetout varieties to consider growing in UK gardens; some popular varieties include: ‘Bijou’ Giant sugar pea ‘Carouby de Mausanne’ mangetout ‘Delikett’ sugar snap ‘Golden Sweet’ yellow podded ‘Norli’ sugar pea ‘Oregon sugar pod’ ‘Shiraz’ purple podded peas ‘Purple Magnolia’ purple podded snap pea ‘Sweet Horizon’ When choosing which peas to grow, remember to consider the height to which they will grow. Though dwarf varieties can sometimes be grown without, most peas will do best when provided with some type of support (more on this below). How To Grow Mangetout Where To Grow Like other pea varieties, mangetout types will grow well in full sun or light, dappled shade. They will do well in most soil types, and can also be grown relatively easily in containers, especially those with plenty of depth. They can thrive in any typical kitchen garden or vegetable plot, and will also be good companions for a range of your other edible crops due to their nitrogen-fixing properties. Consider growing mangetout or other pea varieties in beds alongside crops with high nitrogen requirements, or following peas by brassicas or other nitrogen-hungry plants in a crop rotation plan. Mangetouts on supports can also provide shade for other crops – spinach for example, which can do with shade to avoid issues with bolting in summer. Sowing & Planting Mangetout should usually be sown indoors in March, or outside in your garden in April, May and up to early June. Successional sowing can lead to a prolonged harvesting period. While peas will usually germinate well in the ground, it is sometimes better to sow indoors in modules or small pots/seed trays to avoid losing the seeds to rodents or other pests early in the year. “Only sow one seed per container or module, to minimise the root disturbance that they resent,” shares Peter Lickorish, a Horticultural Consultant. There are a number of different schools of thought when it comes to spacing for peas, and spacing will in part depend on the variety or varieties you have chosen to grow. Peas are often placed around 5-7.5cm apart, in 15cm double or triple rows around 30cm apart, often along a trellis or a row of twigs for the peas to cling to as they grow. The width and spacing within rows can vary and there are no precise rules. In a square foot garden, peas are typically spaced with 8-9 per square foot, with support. “Though canes offer great support for mangetout, you have to be careful with their sharp tips when harvesting, as they can be at eye level,” says Peter. “Therefore, it is important to use cane caps or, if you fancy a quaint Victorian-style kitchen garden, small clay pots resting on the cane ends are really decorative – as long as their hole is smaller than the cane’s diameter.” Some people simply broadcast pea seeds over a wide row (c. 30cm wide) 2.5-5cm apart and still have great results. I find that double rows, or wide rows with broadcasted peas both work well, and provide the maximum yield for a given area – and prefer these methods to single rows – but you may find you prefer single rows. Feel free to experiment a little with sowing peas to see what works best in your garden. Generally, they are sown around 3cm deep. Mangetout Care Make sure that you have provided support for your peas, and train them as they grow so that they cling to their supports where necessary. Support can be a trellis or other vertical structure along the side of a bed, branching twigs within the bed at regular intervals, or poles and wire/twine strung around a wide row, for example. Watering Make sure, also, that you keep your peas well watered, and regularly check moisture levels in the soil. Remember, mangetout grown in containers will need to be watered more frequently, but mangetout will require less water than peas which will be grown to maturity for shelling peas. Fertilising One of the things that makes peas so easy to grow is that they will not usually require additional fertilisation. Mostly, they can be left more or less to their own devices; just get rid of problematic weeds to make sure the plants have the space to grow. Common Problems If you have mice or voles, these can be one of the most problematic pests when it comes to growing mangetout in your garden. Planting indoors early in the season will reduce losses and avoid the loss of all your seeds to these hungry rodents. If pigeons are a persistent problem, and are eating your mangetout seedlings before they get the chance to develop and grow, consider netting your crop, or creating some other physical barrier. You might also consider growing peas inside a polytunnel or row cover structure (perhaps alongside cabbage family plants which can also be bothered by these pests). If you see a dusty white powder on your peas, this is likely powdery mildew. This fungal issue is less likely to occur if you keep the soil around your mangetout moist, or provide shade to create cooler growing conditions. “Pea and bean weevils may also chew notches out of leaf margins, but their presence rarely impacts yields,” says Peter. Harvesting Mangetout Mangetout and sugar snap peas should typically be harvested when the pods reach around 5-8cm long, and the tiny seeds become visible inside the pods. Some varieties can be harvested as few as 10 weeks from sowing, so much sooner than many other typical garden crops. Some are harvested while the pods are still flat, while other varieties are harvested once the pods round out with small immature peas. Make sure you know which variety you are growing and what it should look like at harvest time. Remember, if you have too many to eat now, you can also consider freezing them for later use. If you do not already grow mangetout in your garden, then this is an easy and usually hassle-free crop that you should most definitely consider. References 1. Mangetout definition and meaning. (2023). In Collins English Dictionary. Retrieved March 21, 2023, from https://www.collinsdictionary.com/dictionary/english/mangetout 2. Stephens, J. (2018, November 5). Pisum sativum. University of Florida. Retrieved March 21, 2023, from https://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/publication/MV109
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Grow Radish For An Easy Harvest: 'I Always Recommend Them To First-Time Growers'
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Habitat & Growing Conditions How To Grow Radishes Harvesting Common Problems References A crispy, mildly zesty component of summer salads in Europe, and a richly-flavoured culinary ingredient in spicy cooked dishes in East Asia, the Garden Radish is a wonderfully versatile root vegetable, thanks to its very varied cultivars. Apart from being a popular veggie, the Garden Radish is much appreciated by gardeners of all stripes – growing it is quite literally child’s play! “I always recommend radishes to first-time growers,” shares Garden Writer Kathy Slack. “Except in the hottest summers when they can bolt, they are the easiest, quickest and most joyful of veg to grow. “They’re very easy and quick to offer results; just sow, water and wait and in 6 weeks you’ll have a clutch of ruby jewels.” The radish is one of the few truly global vegetables, for it is consumed the world over. Overview Botanical Name Raphanus sativus Common Name(s) Radish Plant Type Annual Vegetable Native Area Cultivated Hardiness Rating H3-H4 Foliage Lobed leaves with basal rosette Flowers Small four-petalled white flowers When To Sow / Plant Out February, March, April, May, June, July, August Harvesting Months January, February, June, July, August, September, October, November, December A root vegetable like the potato, it belongs to the Brassica Family or Mustard Family which accounts for its piquant taste.1 This root’s amazing variety also adds to its versatility: a few cultivars are mild, even sweetish; at the other extreme, a few are pungent. Many cultivars are flavourful with a pleasingly sharp taste. These various radish cultivars’ origins are debated. They are widely thought to be cultivated from what used to be a single sub-species: Raphanus raphanistrum subsp. sativus. While this would mean the commonly-cultivated, edible radish was technically a sub-species of R. raphanistrum, the Wild Radish, it is now usually identified by its synonym R. sativus; this elevates the plant to the level of a species on its own. It has been so altered by millennia of human cultivation that, disconnected from any confirmed wild ancestor, it is technically a cultigen, defined by the Oxford English Dictionary as “a plant species or variety known only in cultivation, especially one with no known wild ancestor”.2 The thick, fleshy taproot of the plant is the vegetable we know and love (or not!) as the radish. Most frequently light red on the surface and white inside, varieties can be white, orangeish, beige, brown, purple, and even black. However, the flesh is almost always white. Habitat & Growing Conditions R. sativus or the Garden Radish has escaped from cultivation in some regions of the United States where it is found, albeit infrequently, in disturbed soils, close to vegetable gardens, near rubbish dumps, and alongside highways. It takes root in uncultivated but fertile and moist ground in areas with higher-than-average rainfall and with full sun. In the wild it puts up four-petalled purplish-white flowers that attract bees and other pollinators. It spreads, though very gradually, by seed. How To Grow Radishes Sowing The sowing and harvesting season are very long, and sowing and harvesting seasons also overlap; thus, radishes can be sown, grown, and/or harvested literally year-round. Sowing season runs from February (under protection) or March through September and harvesting season from May through the beginning of January. As such, radishes can be both sown and harvested from May through August. What’s more, most summer radish varieties are ready for harvest about four weeks from sowing. “To sow summer radishes, I draw a drill about 1cm deep with a draw hoe or cane and label it,” shares Peter Lickorish, a Horticultural Consultant. “I find that by sowing radishes fairly thinly in this drill, I can harvest them at intervals along the line as they gradually develop. “This thins them and at first, yields leaves, then baby roots, before finishing with the last, well-developed radishes no more than six weeks after sowing.” Winter radishes take much longer to mature, typically about eight weeks – though some winter varieties may take ten to twelve weeks. The ‘winter’ part of their name refers to their harvest time. As a rough guide, sow summer radishes from March through early August, and winter radishes from mid-July to September. Check the instructions on each seed packet for optimal sowing time. The trick to enjoying a continuous months-long harvest is to sow seeds in small quantities on a regular schedule during the sowing season. This is known as succession sowing. Soil Requirements Most types of soil will do but a balanced mix of clay, sand, and chalk amended with well-rotted manure or organic compost is a very good type of soil for this root vegetable. The subsoil and underlying ground must be free of stones and rocks. It is a good idea to till the bed to prep and loosen the soil – it must drain very well and not be prone to waterlogging. ‘French Breakfast’ Soil pH ideally should be in the slightly acidic to neutral range, that is 6.1-7.3, but here too radishes give you a fair amount of leeway. Sunlight Summer radishes should get morning sun and indirect sunlight or shade in the afternoon, especially in the sunnier parts of the country. Winter radishes may be grown in full sun locations. Container Growing Besides outdoor beds, summer radishes and the not-so-big winter radishes may even be grown in planters or large containers. Some summer radishes can even be grown in grow-bags. Watering Water well and regularly, say twice or thrice a week, such that the subsoil stays moist. Keeping the soil moist is of special importance when growing summer radishes in full sun. Soil moisture is also a factor when growing winter radishes. If the soil dries out and remains dry for some days, the radishes’ growth will be stunted and they may well end up bland and tasteless, lacking their distinctive rich, flavourful appeal. Irregular moisture levels may cause root splitting or bolting. Harvesting When harvesting summer radishes, the general guideline is that it is better a little too early than a little too late. If you harvest summer radishes a little too early you lose nothing except a bit of size. Pick them a little too late, and the vegetable can quickly become stringy or woody, depending on the variety, with the taste becoming flat, bitter, or unpleasantly pungent. ‘Chinese Radish’ To use size as a general guideline, it is at about 2-3cm in width that summer radishes are young and are best harvested. While summer radishes must be harvested on time, winter radishes allow more flexibility though do not leave them in the ground too long either. Pick winter radishes by eyeballing the width – when a given vegetable looks like it is more or less the correct width for that variety, it can be pulled up. Harvest them early for slicing raw into salads, and late for making pickles, gazpachos, stewing, or for culinary use. Keep in mind that not all types of winter radishes can be enjoyed raw. If the atmospheric temperature is predicted to stay at -5°C or less, you should pull up any remaining winter radishes otherwise they could sustain frost damage. This should not be a worry virtually anywhere in the UK except parts of Scotland. To pick a (small) summer radish, grasp the leaves at the top, wiggle the radish loose, and gently pull it up. It may not work out quite that way with (larger) winter radishes – the elongated or cylindrical types are much longer and much heavier. You can end up with only foliage or a split or broken radish in your hand! If you do not feel the radish getting loose and coming up through the soil, lightly dig around it and remove and loosen the soil until the radish is ‘unstuck’ enough to pull up. A hand fork is ideal for this. Summer radishes should be enjoyed soon after they are harvested, when they are fresh and succulent. Winter radishes may be stored as they will keep well in the fridge’s crisper or even in a bin in a cool basement. The leaves of winter radishes are not only edible, they have their own taste merits. They do not keep well and should be consumed fresh, within 24 hours of picking. Common Problems The flea beetle is perhaps the most common pest to attack radishes. Flea beetles chew up the leaves, especially of young plants, weakening and stunting the growing root vegetable. They often leave round holes in the middle of leaves. Organic solutions may be used to kill these pests and the plants can be protected with narrow-gauge wire netting. Brassica downy mildew is a disease that radishes are prone to – it is a serious disease that destroys the root vegetable, especially at the seedling stage in spring. It is identified by an unsightly white growth covering the foliage, and yellowing of the foliage. Promptly remove and destroy all affected plants – retail controls to treat downy mildews are not available. Slugs and snails eat radish seedlings, but these common garden nuisances are more easily dealt with. References 1. Raphanus raphanistrum subsp. sativus. (n.d.). Global Biodiversity Information Facility. Retrieved March 23, 2023, from https://www.gbif.org/species/144096278 2. Cultigen. (n.d.). Academic Dictionaries and Encyclopedias. Retrieved July 31, 2023, from https://en-academic.com/dic.nsf/enwiki/2764426
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How To Grow Leeks With Elizabeth Waddington - A Reliable, Low-Maintenance Crop
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Common Varieties How To Grow Leeks Leek Plant Care References Leeks are a common and popular winter vegetable, so you might like to learn how to grow them in your garden. They are not always the easiest vegetable to grow, and take a lot of time to mature to harvest – but in spite of the investment they require in terms of time, space and effort, they can still be an excellent choice for home growers. Overview Botanical Name Allium porrum / Allium ampeloprasum Common Name(s) Leeks Plant Type Annual Vegetable Native Area Cultivated Hardiness Rating H4 Foliage Spiky leaves, above-ground Flowers Spherical, elegant blooms – commonly white or purple Harvesting Months January, February, August, September, October, November, December Leeks are a common garden vegetable which is a member of the Allium family. Leeks are, of course, a vegetable with a pleasant, mild, onion-like taste. Most commonly, the white and pale green portions are eaten. But it is important to remember that the darker green leaves at the top are edible too, and these should also be consumed to avoid waste.1 Though tough, they can be good to sauté or add to a stock. Aside from the flavour, another good thing about leeks is that they are a vegetable that is harvested in the autumn or winter, when there are fewer fresh vegetables around. ” I love growing leeks, growing different varieties for harvesting between late autumn and early spring,” shares Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly. “My favourite is the heritage cultivar ‘Giant Musselburgh’, which tastes great and stands even in mild winters without bolting. “Fantastic in winter soups and far tastier when home-grown. this variety is available in supermarkets.” This means growing leeks can help you in your efforts to eat food grown in your garden all year round. Leeks are not only useful for their edible yield – leeks can also be very useful, like other alliums, as companion plants in your garden. Their strong smell is said to help in repelling or confusing a range of common garden pests – though it must be said that some recent studies have proved inconclusive.2 Common Varieties Some good leek varieties for the UK include: ‘Autumn Giant Porvite’ ‘Blauwgroene Winter’ ‘Bleu de Solaise’ ‘Cairngorm’ ‘Krypton’ ‘Mézières’ ‘Monstrueux de Carentan’ ‘Oarsman’ ‘Porbella’ ‘Stamford’ However, as well as considering common F1 or heritage leek varieties are commonly grown in an annual vegetable plot, you could also consider growing perennial leeks, like Babington’s Leek (Allium ampeloprasum var. babingtonii). Babington’s Leek This is a perennial leek which is found in the wild in the British Isles. It is a relative of the garden leek which is believed to have predated the introduction of the garden leek. Typically, bulbs are planted in spring and then left for the first year – the plant is then harvested for its above-ground growth each subsequent year. The bulb in the ground is left intact and the plant will regrow from the bulb. Plants left unharvested will flower, produce bulbils, and drop these to create new plants; clumps of these can form in the right conditions. How To Grow Leeks Leeks are usually grown in the ground in a garden, but they can also do well in deep raised beds or large, deep containers. Both typical garden leeks and perennial leeks will do best in full sun but can also be grown in partial shade. The ground into which garden leeks are planted should be fertile, and rich in organic matter, while the soil should be moist but relatively free-draining. Crop Rotation You should also consider, when planning your companion planting schemes, that crop rotation is still the best idea. Try to include alliums like leeks within a four-year crop rotation plan. Perennial leeks work very well as companions for strawberries, and other perennial vegetables – again for their strong scent which can confuse or repel a range of pests. Fruit trees like apple trees will also benefit from having perennial leeks and other perennial alliums planted in their guilds, since the perennial alliums help in repelling pests and may also help prevent apple scab and other fungal issues. Sowing Leeks Leeks are a vegetable that takes a long time to mature. If you want to enjoy eating leeks from your garden in winter, then you need to sow the seeds in late winter or early spring. Leeks are usually sown in the UK between February (indoors) and April. See our sowing guide for more information. Leek Plant Care Caring for leeks is relatively easy and straightforward. Simply water during dry periods, and add more mulch over time, or earth up, to encourage the stems to form longer white sections. Make sure that the mulch remains in place over the summer, and remove any weeds which appear between the plants, since leeks will not be very tolerant of any competition. There are however certain problems commonly encountered by those growing leeks in their gardens. Leek Rust One common issue is leek rust, a fungal infection. Making sure that the leeks are not overcrowded and avoid watering from above to reduce the chances that fungal problems like this will take hold. A small rust attack will not kill your leeks, but a more serious attack could reduce your yield. This disease is difficult to eradicate from the soil once it arrives, so practice crop rotation and avoid growing any members of the allium family in the same bed for the next three years. Onion White Rot Crop rotation and good garden hygiene is also crucial in areas where onion white rot is a problem. This is another fungal infection which can attack leeks. Take care not to spread soil or plant material from areas that have this soil-borne fungus to other parts of your garden or elsewhere. References 1. Hunt, T. (2019a, May 11). Go green: don’t let the tastiest part of a leek go to waste. The Guardian. Retrieved March 21, 2023, from https://www.theguardian.com/food/2019/may/11/leek-tops-soup-recipe-food-waste-not-tom-hunt 2. Baudry, X., Doury, G., Couty, A., Fourdrain, Y., Van Havermaet, R., Lateur, M., & Ameline, A. (2021). Antagonist effects of the leek Allium porrum as a companion plant on aphid host plant colonization. Scientific Reports, 11(1). https://doi.org/10.1038/s41598-021-83580-8
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Why It Might Not Be A Good Idea To Grow Potatoes From Store-Bought Ones
IN THIS GUIDE Why Grow From Store-Bought Potatoes? Why It’s Not Always A Good Idea Is It A Good Idea For You? Choosing Seed Potatoes How To Chit Potatoes Planting Store-Bought Potatoes References Growing your own potatoes can be a wonderful way to become more self-sufficient. But can you grow potatoes from store-bought potatoes? The answer is that yes, you can grow potatoes from store-bought potatoes – but a better question is perhaps whether doing so is a good idea. You might be attracted by the idea of planting store-bought potatoes rather than buying seed potatoes – but this may not always be the most sensible option, and you might not always achieve the best results. We’ll help you decide whether or not this is the best option for you, help you choose potato varieties, and explain how to prepare and plant them in your garden. Why Grow From Store-Bought Potatoes? Growing potatoes from store-bought potatoes can be tempting. It is a much more affordable option than buying special seed potatoes for the purpose. Store-bought potatoes are usually inexpensive, and you will often have to pay more for seed potatoes. Reducing Waste What is more, you don’t even necessarily have to plant the whole of a bought potato in the ground. You can also eat some of a potato and plant small scraps with ‘eyes’ on them once you are done. Using scraps to grow new food can be a good way to reduce waste and to get started with growing your own for less. If you successfully grow healthy tubers the first year, you can potentially save tubers from your own organically grown plants to plant the following year. Why It’s Not Always A Good Idea Late blight Unfortunately, while it may be tempting to grow from shop-bought potatoes, this is not always a good idea. The main reason is that store-bought potatoes are not certified seed potatoes, which means that they can introduce harmful potato diseases into your soil which will be difficult, or even near impossible, to get rid of once they arrive. Fungal Diseases Potatoes can be infected with a range of soil-borne fungal diseases such as wilt, black dot and – worst of all, potato blight, which can be a particular problem here in the UK. “Certified seed potatoes are disease-free, meaning that you are starting with a blank slate whereas you may import disease on certified potatoes,” shares Colin Skelly, a Horticultural Consultant. “Viruses are a major cause of damage to potato crops and cannot be tackled by the home grower other than by avoiding them in the first place by buying certified stock. “Diseases can of course find their way onto the potatoes once they’re in the ground but starting from an assurance that you aren’t introducing them is a good way to go.” Tubers can rot in the ground before they even sprout, and the micro-organisms which cause the problems will remain in the soil and mean that you cannot grow potatoes or any other susceptible plants in this growing area for a number of years. Sprout Inhibitors In the past in the UK (and presently in North America and other jurisdictions) another reason why it is not a good idea to use store-bought potatoes is that potatoes for sale were (are) often treated with a sprout inhibitor called Chlorpropham.1 This has been banned in the EU and UK since 2019 and was prohibited for sale from January 2020.2 However, it is still used in North America. Chlorpropham will wash and wear off over time, and sometimes, bought potatoes would still sprout after a certain period, but this substance stays in the environment for a long time and may bioaccumulate. It has been detected in potatoes even after they are boiled.3 Therefore, if you live somewhere (outside of the UK) where a sprout-inhibitor is used, we would certainly not recommend choosing to grow from potatoes on which it was used. Is It A Good Idea For You? Whether or not you should grow potatoes from store-bought potatoes very much depends on your priorities, and on how much risk you are happy to take in your garden. First things first, think about where you have purchased your potatoes. Organic potatoes produced by local, sustainable farmers on a local farm will likely pose far less of a risk than those from a major supermarket store. If your budget is very tight, growing from store-bought potatoes may sometimes be a better choice than not growing at all. So while it does come with risk of diseases, it can still sometimes be worthwhile to take that risk. Utilising Containers If you do decide to grow from shop-bought potatoes or potato scraps, we would recommend growing in containers or grow bags. That way, at least you know that you will not be introducing diseases to your garden soil. The following year, providing that you have not encountered any issues, you could consider saving back a few of the tubers to plant in a larger garden area the following year, to save more money in your garden moving forwards. Just remember to practice crop rotation to ensure that you do not build up disease, and remember that you may still get better results if you buy in certified seed potatoes instead. Choosing Seed Potatoes If you would rather not take the risk, and can afford to do so, choosing and purchasing certified seed potatoes is certainly the best option. Remember to do your research and think about which potatoes you like to eat, and how you like to cook them. There are first early, second early and maincrop potatoes which are typically harvested at different times, and at different sizes. It is always best to make sure that you purchase through a trustworthy supplier, and to choose organic seed potatoes where possible. Seed potatoes sold in England and Wales must be registered under the Seed Potato Classification Scheme (SPCS) certified by DEFRA4, and those in Scotland under a separate SPCS, certified by SASA.5 These schemes ensure that the seed potatoes meet specified minimum health and quality standards. These seed potatoes must be healthy, true to variety and free from mixtures – guarantees which you will obviously not get if you plant random potatoes from the shops. How To Chit Potatoes Potatoes chitting in egg cartons While not strictly essential, it can in my opinion be a good idea to chit potatoes before you plant them in the ground or putting them in containers. Whether you are using store-bought or certified seed potatoes, this can allow you to verify that the tubers have sprouted with green shoots before you place them below the ground. Chitting potatoes begins early in the year, when you simply place the potatoes or certified seed potatoes on a cool yet bright windowsill to sprout green shoots from the small dimples known as eyes. You should do this around 6-8 weeks before you plan to plant out your potatoes. Planting Store-Bought Potatoes In spring, when the time comes to plant out your potatoes where you live, simply prepare your growing area or containers and carefully transfer your potatoes to the place where they are to grow. Just be careful not to knock off the shoots if you chitted them first. Put them into place with the shoots facing upwards, then gently cover them over with soil/ potting medium. For best results, you should consider adding some comfrey leaves or other organic material into the planting hole to provide fertility. Then simply water them into place. See our storage guidelines for tips on keeping potatoes ready to eat. References 1. University of Hertfordshire. (n.d.). Chlorpropham. Pesticide Properties DataBase. Retrieved March 23, 2023, from https://sitem.herts.ac.uk/aeru/ppdb/en/Reports/153.htm 2. Chlorpropham (CIPC) banned by the EU. (n.d.). NFU. Retrieved March 23, 2023, from https://www.nfuonline.com/archive?treeid=119530 3. Sakaliene, O., Koskinen, W. C., Blazauskiene, G., & Petroviene, I. (2008). Level and fate of chlorpropham in potatoes during storage and processing. Journal of Environmental Science and Health Part B-Pesticides Food Contaminants and Agricultural Wastes, 44(1), 1–6. https://doi.org/10.1080/03601230802519470 4. The Seed Potato Classification Scheme. (2022, October 12). GOV.UK. Retrieved March 23, 2023, from https://www.gov.uk/guidance/the-seed-potato-classification-scheme 5. Seed & Ware Potatoes | SASA (Science & Advice for Scottish Agriculture). (n.d.). Retrieved March 23, 2023, from https://www.sasa.gov.uk/seed-ware-potatoes
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You Can Actually Harvest Carrots At Any Time - But This Is When They're At Their Best
IN THIS GUIDE Check Your Seed Packet Timelines For Common Varieties Check Online For Days-To-Harvest Info Thin & Eat When Rows Look Overcrowded Understand Variety Size At Maturity Check The Top Of The Carrot Root Pull A Few Carrots To Check Why You May Wish To Hold Off Carrots are a great crop for new gardeners but one common question that arises is how to know when carrots are ready to harvest. Understanding when to harvest carrots can be one of the trickiest things for a new gardener. After all, you do not want to go to all the hard work of growing them, only to harvest the bulk of your crop before they reach their full potential. There are few hard and fast rules about when exactly carrots are ready to harvest. The truth of the matter is that you can harvest them at any time – and you can eat even the smallest of carrots. “When it comes to deliciousness, you really have to grow your own,” shares Adam Alexander, The Seed Detective. “Pulling a fresh carrot out of the grow and eating it is unbeatable.” But of course, there will be a time when the carrots reach a decent size and taste their best. Harvesting at the perfect moment will mean you obtain as large a yield as possible, but as a general rule, you can expect carrots to have reached a mature size between 12-16 weeks after sowing. Check Your Seed Packet The first way to find out when to harvest your carrots is to look closely at the seed packet. Often, information about the time to harvest will be included on the pack. Even when it does not tell you on the packet how long the carrots you are growing will take to reach maturity, it will still give you the variety information. This can allow you to research online and understand when the particular carrots you are growing are likely to reach mature size. Timelines For Common Varieties Here are some of the most commonly grown varieties in the UK, along with their harvesting information: Variety Weeks-To-Harvest Sowing Month(s) Harvesting Months ‘Flyaway F1’ 12+ Weeks April – July July – October ‘Sugarsnax’ 12+ Weeks March – June June – October ‘Nigel’ 12-16 Weeks April – June August – November ‘Sweet Candle’ 12-14 Weeks March – July July – October ‘Rainbow’ 12-16 Weeks April – June August – November ‘Purple Haze’ 12-18 Weeks April – June August – November Check Online For Days-To-Harvest Info If your particular variety is not listed above, you can look up days-to-harvest for that particular variety online. Often, you will be able to find a rough idea of the time to maturity. Of course, a range of different environmental factors will determine this number in reality. But getting a rough idea of days to harvest means that you have a ballpark idea of when to check for maturity in other ways. Thin & Eat When Rows Look Overcrowded Remember, it might not be the best policy to leave all your carrots to reach a fully mature size. Often, you will want to harvest some carrots a little earlier to give the remaining carrots in the row the space they need to grow to full size. It is a good idea to thin rows and pull up baby carrots when your rows begin to look overcrowded. These small carrots can still be very useful, even if they have not reached their full potential. Understand Variety Size At Maturity Of course, when we talk about a carrot reaching full size, it is important to remember that this size can be very different depending on the particular variety or varieties you have decided to grow. There is no optimal carrot size. Some carrots have been bred for short, fat roots, and others for long thin ones. Some varieties grow enormous, while others will always be relatively small no matter how long you leave them in the ground. Make sure, again, that you know which type or types you are growing, and make sure you know how large they can potentially grow. Without this information, there is no way to know if you are growing your carrots to the optimal size. Check The Top Of The Carrot Root When the time when you think your carrots might be ready to harvest approaches, one important clue that they might be ready is the size of the little bit of carrot root showing above the soil. When this seems to match the optimal size for the variety you are growing, it might be harvest time. If you cannot see the top of the root, move away any mulch and excavate the soil a little, very carefully, to see what the top of the root looks like. “Do not wait for flowers before harvesting,” warns Horticulture Lecturer Peter Lickorish. “As a biennial, they’re unlikely to flower in the year sown, and if they do, as happens occasionally, you can expect woody roots. “If there’s a hint of a flower stem forming, harvest them as soon as possible.” Pull A Few Carrots To Check There is one sure-fire way to know when carrots are ready to harvest – that is simply to pull one or two carrots out of the ground to see their size. If they are a size that you are happy with, then you can go ahead and harvest the lot. “Water the soil well before harvesting or wait for the soil to moisten before lifting your crop,” says Peter. If they are not quite there yet and you think that they may get a bit bigger then simply eat the smaller carrots you have pulled up and leave the rest for a while longer. You can also store your carrots by pickling them, as Horticulturist and Food Blogger Kathy Slack explains: “Everyone imagines pickling is all bubbling pots, steamy kitchens and sticky surfaces, but a quick pickle will preserve many harvests like carrots, beetroots, tomatoes, radishes, cucumbers, rhubarb…the list goes on. “Just melt equal amounts of sugar and cider vinegar over low heat. Leave to cool, then add very thin slices of raw veg, like your carrot. “They are ready to eat in 15 minutes but store in a jar in the fridge for a couple of weeks, generally.” Why You May Wish To Hold Off Carrots sown earlier in the year can sometimes become woody and not taste as good if they are left in the ground too long over the summer months. So harvesting when carrots are a little on the small side can be better than leaving them too long. However, as the end of the growing season approaches, it can sometimes make sense to hold off on harvesting carrots, even if they have reached a good size. The thing is, carrots can be left in the ground once cooler weather arrives, and harvested as and when needed. This can sometimes be the best and easiest way to store them. Another thing to bear in mind is that carrots can often taste better after they have been exposed to the first few frosts. This is because the cold breaks down starches into plant sugars – so your carrots, other root crops, and several other vegetables can actually taste a little sweeter.
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Potatoes In Grow Bags - Here's How To Choose And Grow Yours In 6 Simple Steps
IN THIS GUIDE Why Grow Potatoes In Grow Bags? Choosing Your Grow Bags Other Options 1) Filling Grow Bags For Potatoes 2) Choosing Seed Potatoes 3) Planting Potatoes 4) Earthing Up & Mulching 5) Ongoing Care Watering Feeding 6) Harvesting Potatoes In Grow Bags Potatoes are a staple crop that can be great for home growing but they can take up a lot of space, so growing in grow bags or other containers can be a good option for small space growers. Potatoes can be grown in a range of different ways: you do not necessarily have to have a large garden to grow some potatoes for yourself and your family. Using grow bags of some kind could be a good way to get started. Growing potatoes in grow bags or other containers allows gardeners to make the most of their space. Grow bags in this context refers to any fabric bag which can be filled with your growing medium. Why Grow Potatoes In Grow Bags? Grow bags (like other containers) help you grow more food in less space. They are less likely to have water retention issues than many other container options. Root compaction is less likely to occur when growing in grow bags. Grow bags can be lighter and easier to move around than other containers. However, grow bags are not always the most sustainable or eco-friendly choice when you buy them new. You need to think about what they are made from, where they come from, how long they will last and what will happen to them at the end of their useful lives. Reuse is always a good strategy in an organic garden. Another thing to bear in mind is that grow bags can dry out more quickly than other types of containers. So you will need to be particularly careful to make sure that your potato plants get the water they need. Choosing Your Grow Bags There are many grow bags that can be purchased, both non-sustainable plastic options and more sustainable fabrics like hessian or hemp. Plastic (synthetic fabric) bags will last longer, as they will not break down. However, they also, of course, come at a huge cost – utilising fossil fuels that should be kept in the ground. Fortunately, you do not have to shell out on a new grow bag for your garden because there are a wide range of reclaimed materials that you could use. Even if you are trying to avoid plastic use as much as possible, you may well have large plastic sacks from compost or other materials you have bought in for your garden. “Reusing old compost bags, especially larger 70+ litre bags is a great way to get another use out of them,” shares Colin Skelly, a Horticultural Consultant. “They are not recyclable at present, so most gardeners will tend to have a few kicking about. Being plastic should help with moisture retention but punch a few more holes into the base to help with drainage.” These can be used as grow bags. Reusable shopping bags or sacks might also be used to grow potatoes. On a larger scale, you might reuse the large bags used to transport building materials. You can also make your own grow bags out of old clothes, bedding or other reclaimed fabrics from your home. Other Options Remember, grow bags are not the only option – there are also a range of other reclaimed containers to consider. Some potatoes, which will be ready more quickly, could even be planted in a sturdy cardboard box. 1) Filling Grow Bags For Potatoes A simple multi-purpose peat free compost will be fine for growing potatoes. You can also use a homemade mix of homemade compost, soil/loam and organic matter like leaf mould, for example. One other interesting thing to consider is that you can fill your bags with layers of organic material – just as you would in a compost bin or no dig lasagne garden. Again, it can often be more eco-friendly and sustainable to take a DIY approach rather than buying in materials. When growing potatoes in grow bags, you will not fill the grow bags up to the top as you would for most other plants. Instead, you will fill the grow bags only to a depth of around 10-15cm, then top up around your plants as they grow. We’ll take a closer look at this a little later in this article. 2) Choosing Seed Potatoes Potatoes in the UK are usually divided into three categories: First earlies – from 10 weeks to harvest. Second earlies – from 14 weeks to harvest. Maincrop – 20 weeks or longer to harvest. Though maincrop potatoes can be grown in grow bags providing these are of sufficient size, first and second earlies are generally the best options for grow bag gardening. 3) Planting Potatoes As a general rule of thumb, you can plant 1 seed potato for every 10 litres of capacity in the grow bag you have chosen. So for a grow bag with 40-litre capacity, you can plant 4 seed potatoes. This can vary quite a bit, of course, but this is a rough guideline to help you think about how many potatoes the containers you choose can accommodate. Seed potatoes are usually sown in spring, however, when growing in containers there is also the option to sow second earlies in June or July for new potatoes around Christmas. You simply need to make sure that you give some protection to the plants before the first frosts arrive, or move your potato grow bags undercover into a greenhouse or polytunnel. First of all, place some of your growing medium in the base to create a layer for the roots around 10-15cm deep. One handy hint is to place a piece of turf upside down in the base of each to act as a sort of sponge to retain moisture. I also like to add some comfrey leaves or seaweed as I plant my potatoes to get them off to a good start. Place your seed potatoes on the surface of this bottom layer and then cover them over with another 15cm or so of growing medium. Water them in well, and wait for the shoots to emerge, making sure that you keep the grow bag moist but not waterlogged at all times. 4) Earthing Up & Mulching Once the shoots of the plants are around 15-20cm above the surface of the growing medium in your grow bag, you will add more growing medium or organic material around the plant as it grows, layer by layer, until you reach the top of your grow bag. The purpose of this is to encourage new roots and tubers to form from the portion of the stem of the plant which is covered up. Traditionally, when growing in the ground, gardeners will ‘earth up’ their potatoes with topsoil. “My no dig potatoes are a thing of beauty and they are such a simple way to get clean potatoes and a weed-free bed,” shares Chris, one half of The Bearded Growers. However you can also use homemade composts and all the organic materials that you can put in a composting system. Mulching with organic materials (in layers of brown carbon-rich and green nitrogen-rich materials) rather than using soil or a more conventional growing medium can also yield good results. 5) Ongoing Care Watering Remember that potatoes in containers will typically require more water than those growing in the ground and grow bags can sometimes be even more prone to drying out. Make sure you ensure that the growing medium is moist throughout the growing period. Feeding For best results, feed potatoes in grow bags with a good quality organic plant feed two or three times over the growing season. Compost tea or seaweed feed can be made at home for this purpose, so you should not have to buy anything in especially. 6) Harvesting Potatoes In Grow Bags It is not always easy to tell when potatoes are ready to harvest. Some plants will have tubers ready to harvest once they flower, but some will not flower at all. So the best thing to do is simply to feel gently in the growing medium to feel how large the tubers are. If you can feel some tubers that are of a worthwhile size, you can harvest a few at a time by feeling around the edges of the plant in your grow bag. Or you can tip up and empty out the whole grow bag to harvest your crop. Remember to use the right storage techniques to keep your potatoes in a good condition after harvesting. You likely won’t get as many potatoes from grow bags as you can from plants grown in the ground in optimal conditions. However, if you have cared for your plants successfully, you should not find the yield from each grow bag disappointing.
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