Growing
How To Grow Masterworts According To A Specialist Astrantia Nursery
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Why Grow Astrantia? Where To Grow How To Grow Astrantia Astrantia Plant Care Common Problems References The interesting pincushion blooms of Astrantia make them a popular choice for summer colour in a garden. There are a number of cultivars well worth considering – with blooms in an array of reds, pinks and whites. In each of our Astrantia guides, we collaborate with Caroline Samuel, Owner of Letham Plants, a specialist Astrantia nursery. “Astrantias are great border plants with lush green foliage and straight stems that are topped with star-shaped flowers,” Caroline says. “The flowers are pincushion-like and are surrounded by papery bracts, giving a starry appearance. “There are lots of varieties, in a range of colours from white to pink, to cherry red through to burgundy. “They make excellent cut flowers and you might see them in summer wedding bouquets as well as in displays around the home.” Overview Botanical Name Astrantia Common Name(s) Masterwort, Hattie’s Pincushion Plant Type Herbaceous perennial Native Area Europe and Western Asia Hardiness Rating H7 Foliage Palmately lobed basal leaves Flowers Compact umbels of tiny flowers usually pinkish, reddish hues When To Sow February to April Flowering Months June to September When To Prune July to August Astrantia is a genus of herbaceous plants – the name of which refers to the open, star-shaped floral bracts that radiate out around the pincushion-like flowering heads.1 One common name for this plant is ‘Hattie’s Pincushion’, while it is also referred to as ‘Masterwort’ and ‘Melancholy Gentleman’. As mentioned above, there are plenty of cultivars within this genus to choose from, but here are some excellent options for gardeners in the UK to consider: A. ‘Star of Fire’ – deep red bracts tipped black, green leaves edged with pink and black. A. major ‘Bloody Mary’ – dark green leaves and rich, dark red flowers with silver-green centres. A. ‘Gill Richardson’ – vibrant cherry-red flowers from April-September. A. major var. Rosea – dark foliage and charming pinkish-white blooms. A. major ‘Alba’ – white flowers June-October. Of course, these are just some of the options you could consider for your garden. “A. major ‘Star of Fire’ is a favourite of mine,” Caroline shares. “It is of medium size at around 60cm and has dark burgundy flower stems and dark red flowers tipped black. A. ‘Star of Fire’ “It looks great in the garden when planted with grasses and is an excellent cut flower.” Another favourite of Caroline’s is ‘Snow Star’, which is a similar size to ‘Star of Fire’ but is instead completely white and makes an excellent addition to garden borders. A. ‘Snow Star’ “Astrantia major ‘Pink Sensation’ is my final pick, and this variety has large pale pink flowers,” she adds. “This flower is not for a small garden, as the leaves on it are huge as are the flowers. “Like most Astrantias, this one is loved by the bees and butterflies.” Why Grow Astrantia? All of the varietals named above, along with a number of other beautiful options, are wonderful choices for a perennial planting scheme. “Astrantia flowers look multi-dimensional to me in early summer and are always intriguing to photograph,” shares Andrea Jones, an award-winning garden photographer. Aside from being prized for their attractive blooms, Astrantia is also a good choice for creating ground cover when the plants are grown in a group. An effective ground cover can protect the soil and keep your soil ecosystem healthy and productive over time. Astrantia is also well-known for self-seeding in the right conditions. This can be great where gardeners are looking for a low-maintenance and wilder garden scheme. However, you can also deadhead zealously if you want to discourage this. Astrantia flowers can also make good cut flowers, so you could also remove the blooms before they set seed and use them for floral arrangements and displays inside your home. These plants are typical plants for British gardens, having bloomed here since Tudor times. They look at home in a cottage or English garden type design. “Our asters are looking fabulous at the moment this autumn and take very little care,” shares Claire Greenslade, the Head Gardener at Hestercombe Gardens. “We make sure that we have good staking in place by April or May and we use coppiced hazel from the estate to make our supports so they look nice and natural.” One of the other reasons for their enduring popularity is that they are slug and snail-proof. These plants can therefore be a good choice if these are an issue where you live. Another major plus for gardeners growing Astrantia is the fact that these are excellent wildlife-friendly plants as their nectar-rich flowers attract pollinators such as bees and butterflies. Growing some Astrantias can help in maintaining the natural biodiversity that is needed for a healthy organic garden. Where To Grow Astrantia grows best in moist, humus-rich soil. A loamy soil that is high in organic matter is ideal, and sites with sandy soil will usually struggle to retain enough moisture. Clay soils can also be suitable for growing these plants, as long as they remain moist and do not bake dry in hot weather. Astrantia major ‘Shaggy’ Astrantias will commonly thrive in the dappled shade beneath trees in a woodland or forest garden. Though it is worth noting that certain darker-hued varieties will perform better in a sunnier spot, so it is important to know the needs of the varietal or varietals you are considering. Astrantias will also tend to do well under trees or shrubs or in glade areas between them, in a moist garden bed or border. Astrantia in a garden border Astrantia lends itself well to planting in groups, where, as mentioned above, it will provide good ground cover between other plants. Good companion plants for Astrantias include: Dryopteris Geums Salvias Thalictrums Sambucus nigra Though it will work well with many other plants that prefer relatively moist conditions. “I have found using Astrantia to underplant roses in a cottage garden scheme works well, as they cover the often bare lower part of rose shrubs and flower in between the main flushes of rose flowers in June and September,” shares Roy Nicol, a Professional Gardener and Horticulturist. How To Grow Astrantia From Seed Astrantia seeds can be sown under cover in spring between February and April before being pricked out, potted on and planted out once the weather warms. You can also sow seeds from your own Astrantia plants directly in August or September in trays or drills in the garden, before pricking out and planting into their final growing positions the following spring. “`be aware that seeds from cultivars do not come true from seed and so the colours are likely to differ from the original,” adds Roy. Bedding Plants Bedding plants purchased for your garden can be planted out between October and April. Simply remove the plant from its pot and position it in a planting hole. Refill the hole around the plant, firm it, and water well. Add a mulch of organic matter around your plants to retain soil moisture. Astrantia Plant Care Astrantia plants should be well-watered. Adequate watering is particularly important to shepherd these plants through their first summer. “Astrantia does not tolerate long spells of drought, especially on light soils which are free draining,” says Caroline. “If your Astrantias wilt due to a lack of watering, extra water helps and the plants will recover with no ill effect.” Note that plants grown in pots or containers will require more water than those grown in the ground. Mulching “A mulch of organic matter is useful in the autumn,” adds Caroline. Autumn leaves or leaf mould, home-made compost and well-rotted manure can all be good mulch choices. As long as the basic needs of moisture, soil and environmental conditions are met, Astrantia plants are relatively easy and low maintenance – requiring little care. Common Problems Usually trouble-free and, as mentioned above, untroubled by slugs and snails, Astrantias can be susceptible to fungal infections such as powdery mildews. You can reduce the chances of a problem occurring by making sure that plants do not dry out and do not experience physiological stress. Plants not in tip-top condition are more likely to be a target. Mulching well will also help to reduce the incidence of problems, as it can prevent soil containing fungal spores from splashing back up onto the plant’s leaves. When watering, try to water at the roots and not from above, so foliage is not left wet. Make sure there is good airflow around plants and avoid overcrowding. This can be achieved by dividing plants in the spring and re-planting them in more space. You will be able to see if this problem has arisen by the white coating that appears on the leaves. “Astrantias can also suffer from Astrantia leaf miner,” Caroline explains. “The leaf miner causes brown patches on the leaves, usually early summer. “This is caused by the larvae of the fly feeding within the foliage of the plants. Affected leaves can be removed, but whilst unsightly, it does not affect the flowers.” Preventing Fungal Infections To reduce the spread of such fungal infections in an organic garden, you should always remove affected foliage as quickly as possible. Usually, other interventions will not be required. However, you can also make a home-made fungicide to spray on surrounding leaves, which can also reduce the spread and help in tackling milder infections. One example is a solution of 5% apple cider vinegar in 1 gallon of water sprayed on leaves in the cool morning hours. You can also use solutions containing garlic, or bicarbonate of soda if fungal infections such as powdery mildew become a persistent problem. In autumn, cut back affected plants and be careful as you dispose of or burn the foliage. Do not add the material to your compost heap, and keep it away from other areas of the garden so the problem does not spread. Grow them in the right places and consider the conditions they like best and you should find that Astrantias are superb, hassle-free flowering plants for your garden. As perennials, they will come back each year to delight you, and the bees and other insect life in your area. References 1. Masterwort (Genus Astrantia). (n.d.). iNaturalist United Kingdom. Retrieved March 10, 2023, from https://uk.inaturalist.org/taxa/131624-Astrantia
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All Of These Plants Flower In The Winter Months - Start Growing Them Now
IN THIS GUIDE Winter Flowering Shrubs 1) Daphne 2) Witch Hazel (Hamamelis vernalis) 3) White Forsythia (Abeliophyllum distichum) 4) Christmas Box (Sarcococca confusa) 5) Heathers (Erica ssp.) 6) Viburnum 7) Skimmia japonica 8) Elaeagnus pungens ‘Maculata’ 9) Mahonia x media 10) Strawberry Tree (Arbutus unedo) Winter Flowering Perennials & Bedding Plants 11) Hellebores 12) Iris unguicularis 13) Bergenia crassifolia 14) Winter Pansies / Violas 15) Winter Primula / Primroses Winter Flowering Bulbs 16) Snowdrops 17) Winter Aconite 18) Cyclamen coum 19) Crocuses 20) Daffodils Start Planting This Winter References Winter flowering plants are a boon for the gardener and winter wildlife. It is important to choose the right plants for the right places, taking the conditions and the needs of the plants into account. The good news is that no matter where you live in the UK, there are winter flowering plants that could suit your garden. Winter flowering plants are important for wildlife – providing a source of nectar when there are far fewer blooms around. This is good for wildlife, and therefore good for the ecosystem. But it is also good for you as the gardener. Having plenty of winter flowers around won’t just look good and provide cheer when the weather is wilder, it will also mean that wildlife is in place to help you with your gardening through the rest of the year. In this article, we will look at shrubs, perennials or bedding plants, and bulbs. We’ll explore twenty of the best winter flowering plants that you could consider for your outside space. Winter Flowering Shrubs First of all, let’s take a look at some winter-flowering shrubs you could consider: 1) Daphne HARDINESS RATING: H4 POSITION: FULL SUN OR PARTIAL SHADE SIZE: 2.5 X 1.5M FLOWERING MONTHS: FEBRUARY – MARCH There are a number of different Daphne species that bear beautiful blooms during winter or very early spring. D. bholua and D. odora are just two interesting and attractive options to consider. D. bholua originates in the Eastern Himalayas. ‘Jaqueline Postill’ has fragrant pinkish-white flowers. D. odora, native to Japan and Korea, is known for its pale pink flowers and glossy evergreen foliage. These are just a couple of different Daphnes that are beautiful in the winter months. 2) Witch Hazel (Hamamelis vernalis) HARDINESS RATING: H6 POSITION: FULL SUN OR PARTIAL SHADE SIZE: 4 X 4M FLOWERING MONTHS: JANUARY – MARCH Witch hazel is a deciduous shrub whose wiry yellow flowers appear on bare branches in the middle of winter, adding plenty of interest to the garden at this time of the year. This is a pest-tolerant and hardy species great for a woodland garden. It does best in neutral to slightly acidic soil, in a position sheltered from drying winds. 3) White Forsythia (Abeliophyllum distichum) HARDINESS RATING: H6 POSITION: FULL SUN SIZE: 1.5 X 2.5M FLOWERING MONTHS: FEBRUARY – MARCH This is another deciduous shrub that bears flowers on its bare stems over the late winter or very early spring. The slender branches form fragrant white or pale pink flowers around 1cm across that somewhat resemble the flowers of Forsythia – hence the common name for this Korean native. 4) Christmas Box (Sarcococca confusa) HARDINESS RATING: H5 POSITION: PARTIAL SHADE SIZE: 1.5 X 1.5M FLOWERING MONTHS: DECEMBER – MARCH This winter flowering evergreen shrub is known for its fragrant white blooms that stand out in winter against the dark green foliage of the plant. As long as the soil is well-drained, Christmas box can cope with a site that is in full sun or shade. It could be a good choice for mixed hedging and its interest carries through to summer when dark inedible berries develop. “I also have a soft spot for a similar Christmas box, Sarcococca hookeriana, which oozes elegance, with its shapely form and red highlights at the bases of flowers and on the stems,” says Master Horticulturist Peter Lickorish. 5) Heathers (Erica ssp.) HARDINESS RATING: H5 POSITION: FULL SUN OR PARTIAL SHADE SIZE: 0.5 X 1M FLOWERING MONTHS: DECEMBER – APRIL There are a number of winter flowering heathers that work well to bring blooms to a garden over the coldest months. These low-growing shrubs can work well at the front of a bed or border, and can also work well in containers. There are varieties with flowers in a range of different shades from purple through pink to white. 6) Viburnum HARDINESS RATING: H4-H6 POSITION: ANY SIZE: 2.5 X 2.5M FLOWERING MONTHS: NOVEMBER – MARCH Viburnums are another broad species that has a number of varietals that flower in winter. One example is Viburnum tinus ‘Eve Price’. This has pink buds around Christmas that then bloom into white flowers early in the new year. “Among my favourite Viburnums is Viburnum x bodnantense ‘Dawn’, featuring strongly fragrant pink flowers at the dawn of the year,” says Peter. “It is deciduous, but the ribbed foliage is attractive.” 7) Skimmia japonica HARDINESS RATING: H5 POSITION: FULL OR PARTIAL SHADE SIZE: 2.5 X 1.5M FLOWERING MONTHS: MARCH – APRIL Skimmia japonica ‘Rubella’ actually flowers in spring. But over the winter months, it bears prominent flower buds that add a lot of interest to a winter garden. Other skimmias bear beautiful red berries over the winter months which are great for Christmas. Most skimmias are either male or female, so you’ll need to grow male and female plants if you want females to produce berries.1 8) Elaeagnus pungens ‘Maculata’ HARDINESS RATING: H5 POSITION: FULL SUN OR PARTIAL SHADE SIZE: 4 X 4M FLOWERING MONTHS: OCTOBER – NOVEMBER An excellent nitrogen-fixing evergreen shrub, there are a number of Elaeagnus spp. that can work well in a winter garden.2 ‘Maculata’ bears small silvery-white flowers from late Autumn. 9) Mahonia x media HARDINESS RATING: H5 POSITION: ANY SIZE: 4 X 4M FLOWERING MONTHS: NOVEMBER – MARCH Several varieties of Mahonia are evergreens that bear attractive spires of sunshine yellow flowers in late winter. These cheerful flowers are followed by purple berries. Mahonia x media (‘Charity’ and ‘Winter Sun’) and Mahonia aquifolium are excellent shade-tolerant plants, bringing colour to even shady spots in a garden. 10) Strawberry Tree (Arbutus unedo) HARDINESS RATING: H5 POSITION: FULL SUN SIZE: 8 X 8M FLOWERING MONTHS: NOVEMBER This small tree or shrub will grow to an eventual height of 4.5-6m, occasionally larger. It bears white or pink-tinged flowers between October and December, then small strawberry-like fruit in autumn, which are edible, and are sweet but somewhat insipid. It can be useful in making jams and preserves. Sowing plenty of shrubs and woody perennials in your garden won’t just provide attractive blooms and foliage over the winter months. It will also help you sequester more carbon in your garden than you could do by growing only annual plants.3 The more carbon you can store in your garden in trees and other plants and the soil, the more you will be helping to combat our climate crisis. Winter Flowering Perennials & Bedding Plants If you want beds, borders, planters, containers or hanging baskets to look great all winter long, but don’t have space for shrubs, here are some more winter flowering plants to consider: 11) Hellebores HARDINESS RATING: H7 POSITION: PARTIAL SHADE SIZE: 0.5 X 0.5M FLOWERING MONTHS: NOVEMBER – MARCH Hellebores come in a range of colours and with a range of characteristics. The Christmas Rose is one common example, enjoyed around the festive season for its winter flowers. Many oriental hybrids are popular, as these are easy to grow. They are frequently bought as bedding plants from autumn onwards and used for adding late winter and spring interest to containers, beds or borders. Though sold as bedding plants, they can bloom reliably in borders year after year. 12) Iris unguicularis HARDINESS RATING: H5 POSITION: FULL SUN SIZE: 0.5 X 0.5M FLOWERING MONTHS: OCTOBER – MARCH Iris rhizomes need to be warmed up by the summer sun in August/September. The flowers are an attractive violet hue, with white and yellowish patterns. The only drawback with this plant is the foliage can be messy, with sporadic die-back. 13) Bergenia crassifolia HARDINESS RATING: H7 POSITION: ANY SIZE: 0.5 X 0.5M FLOWERING MONTHS: February – APRIL Bergenia crassifolia, also known as winter-flowering bergenia or winter-flowering elephant’s ears, is a clump-forming evergreen perennial that is well known for its hardiness and vigour. Erect clusters of purple-pink flowers develop from winter into spring, and leaves often tinge red over winter, providing additional interest in the winter garden. 14) Winter Pansies / Violas HARDINESS RATING: H5 POSITION: FULL SUN OR PARTIAL SHADE SIZE: 0.5 X 0.5M FLOWERING MONTHS: ANY Pansies/violas are amongst the most common and popular options when it comes to bedding plants for a winter garden. Winter pansies come in a staggering array of hues, and they can overwinter in a sheltered garden, or in containers, right through the coldest part of the year. “I prefer violas and pansies with prominent faces, the term for the dark central pattern, which adds an extra character to them,” says Peter. “They can also act as a thread to tie together a mix of colours which could otherwise look chaotic or playful, depending on your point of view!” 15) Winter Primula / Primroses HARDINESS RATING: H7 POSITION: FULL SUN OR PARTIAL SHADE SIZE: 0.1 X 0.1M FLOWERING MONTHS: OCTOBER – APRIL Primulas and primroses are also popular bedding plants for the winter months. These too come in a wide range of colours and can add interest and cheer to a winter garden. Winter Flowering Bulbs Finally, some of the most delicate and delightful winter flowering plants come from bulbs. Here are five further options to consider: 16) Snowdrops HARDINESS RATING: H5 POSITION: PARTIAL SHADE SIZE: 0.1 X 0.1M FLOWERING MONTHS: JANUARY – MARCH Snowdrops are often one of the first blooms we notice each year. At their best when planted below trees in naturalistic drifts, snowdrops are a delight of the late winter. To make the display look more natural, scatter the bulbs across the area and plant them where they happen to fall. 17) Winter Aconite HARDINESS RATING: H6 POSITION: FULL SUN OR PARTIAL SHADE SIZE: 0.1 X 0.1M FLOWERING MONTHS: JANUARY – March This is another winter-flowering bulb that looks great in drifts in a woodland or forest garden. They thrive in moist soil and shade. The cheery yellow flowers resemble buttercups, but pop up in the depths of winter. 18) Cyclamen coum HARDINESS RATING: H5 POSITION: PARTIAL SHADE SIZE: 0.1 X 0.1M FLOWERING MONTHS: DECEMBER – MARCH These pretty pink flowers pop up their heads and bloom as early as December, emerging from a carpet of silver-marbled foliage. These are great companions for the two winter flowering plants mentioned above. 19) Crocuses HARDINESS RATING: H6 POSITION: FULL SUN SIZE: 0.1 X 0.1M FLOWERING MONTHS: February – MARCH Emerging from late winter and into early spring, crocuses are another cheery sight. Plant into a sunny glade or naturalise in a lawn for a delightful and colourful flowering display early in the year. Crocus tommasinianus is one of the earliest flowering species. 20) Daffodils HARDINESS RATING: H6 POSITION: FULL SUN OR PARTIAL SHADE SIZE: 0.1 X 0.1M FLOWERING MONTHS: FEBRUARY – MARCH Finally, we may think of daffodils as more of a spring-flowering plant. But there are a number of varieties that pop up earlier in the year. Early flowering cultivars like ‘Rijnveld’s Early Sensation’ or ‘February Gold’ can have a big impact in a late winter garden. Paperwhite narcissus are also commonly forced to bloom around the festive season indoors. Start Planting This Winter Winter flowering bulbs bloom over a period early in the year before storing nutrients in their bulbs for the rest of the year. This means that they can be useful in attracting and feeding pollinators early in the year when few nectar sources are about. But also in catching and storing water and nutrients and retaining them in your garden. Winter flowering plants can each have a role to play in the long-term health and aesthetic value of your garden. “Plenty of pollinators, including species of bumble bee, do not go fully dormant in winter and are instead winter-active, relying on us to sustain their nectar supply,” explains Peter. References 1. Garden Plant of the Month November: Skimmia. (2018, December 4). Flower Council. Retrieved March 27, 2023, from https://www.flowercouncil.co.uk/campaign/garden-plant-of-the-month-november-skimmia 2. Elaeagnus: A Widely Distributed Temperate Nitrogen Fixer. (1995, December). Winrock International. Retrieved March 27, 2023, from https://winrock.org/factnet-a-lasting-impact/fact-sheets/elaeagnus-a-widely-distributed-temperate-nitrogen-fixer/ 3. Norman, C., & Kreye, M. (2020, November 24). How Forests Store Carbon. PennState Extension. Retrieved March 27, 2023, from https://extension.psu.edu/how-forests-store-carbon
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How To Grow Geums (Avens) - These Plants Are A Firm Favourite At RHS Chelsea
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Geum Types How To Grow Geums Plant Care Common Problems References Commonly known as ‘Avens’, Geums provide splendid colour, making them a firm favourite at the RHS Chelsea Flower Show.1 Growing to around 18 inches in height, this pretty plant forms spreading mounds of evergreen foliage which can add much-needed texture and structure to your garden. From May to July their leafy, branching stems hold solitary, intensely coloured flowers, or little clusters of smaller, colourful flowers, usually of orange, yellow and red. Another benefit of geums is that bees find them extremely attractive, leading them to seed and hybridise freely, as Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly explains: “Because of the propensity to hybridise, there are always new cultivars being introduced. “If you introduce species into your garden you are likely to end up with some hybrids of your own. “I am a great fan of Geums, particularly their long flowering season but also for their long flowering stems which emerge from a low rosette – a great companion plant for other early summer flowering perennials and bulbs like Alliums.” When two species of geum hybridise, either guided by the gardener or spontaneously, their offspring is usually sterile, meaning they’ll produce flowers for longer. Some hybrids can bloom for months rather than weeks and won’t produce seeds. Overview Botanical Name Geum Common Name(s) Avens Plant Type Perennial Flower Native Area Europe, Asia, Americas, Africa, New Zealand Hardiness Rating H7 Foliage Herbaceous Flowers Various bright colours; usually red, orange or yellow When To Sow January, February, March, April, September, October, November, December Flowering Months April, May, June, July, August, September When To Prune January, February, March, October, November, December Geums are a genus of around 54 species of rhizomatous perennial herbaceous plants; they’re part of the rose family and the subfamily of Rosoideae.2 These plants are hardy and slug resistant, and their foliage works wonderfully for suppressing weeds. In general, geums prefer moist well-drained soil so incorporating organic matter when planting will help them to retain the moisture they need to support their growth. Their foliage can scorch in the sun, so we recommend planting in partial shade. Where colour is concerned, the flowers can come in an exquisite range of hues, from rich dark reds to pale pastel yellow. Geums are said to be a symbol of purity; the scientific name is derived from the Greek word “geno” meaning “to give off a pleasant fragrance”, which is likely because of the clove-like aroma the roots exude.3 Geums are extremely easy to grow and provide such a tremendous burst of colour, that they have long been exceptionally popular among gardeners. Geum Types With over 50 species of geums, all with their own unique look – it can be hard to pick which one would best suit your garden. That’s why we’ve chosen a few of our favourites to help you get started: ‘Fireball’ Topping our list is the fireball geum, with its gorgeous orange blooms with red edges, this variety is a firm favourite and blossoms gloriously from late spring to early summer. Similar to a few other species, this plucky little plant also produces pretty fluffy seedheads which are extremely attractive to the eye. This species prefers shade, but it can still perform well in the sun as long as it is planted where it can get some respite in the afternoon. Fireball geums have coarse, evergreen foliage that can provide texture and interest to your garden. They are also well-loved by butterflies and other helpful pollinators. ‘Alabama Slammer’ Slamming into our list is the showy Alabama slammer. Growing to a height of 10-14 inches and a spread of 12-14 inches, this prolific little plant has the ability to produce 155 flowers or more. This species sports golden flowers with ruffled edges and has speckles of red and orange. Alabama slammers are generally very disease resistant and grow vigorously, requiring very little maintenance. This variety will thrive in full sun but can tolerate partial shade and prefers average to medium moisture and well-drained soil. ‘Mai Tai’ ‘Mai Tai’ geums get their name thanks to the similar colours they share with the famous cocktail. Their delicate-looking flowers gradually fade from a soft peach colour to pale pink and bloom from late spring to early summer. This species can produce as many as 135 flowers per plant, and their burgundy-coloured stems combined with the colour of their blossoms make them extremely aesthetically pleasing. ‘Mai Tai’ geums do well in both full sun and partial shade and are actually very unfussy when it comes to soil types. Their unique colour and easy-going nature mean they are perfect for adding much-needed interest to any area of your garden. ‘Wet Kiss’ This clump-forming geum sports either single or semi-double ruffled flowers which, as the plant matures, fades into a gorgeous orange, peachy colour that is sure to turn heads. Growing to around 14 inches in both height and width, the ‘Wet Kiss’ geum prefers moist and fertile soil in partial shade or full sun. That said it can still do well in average soils. Their lush, green foliage and burgundy stems can add much-needed structure and definition to your garden, so if you want to amp up a dull landscape, then the wet kiss geum is just what the doctor ordered. ‘Rogers Rebellion’ If you want to spice up your garden a bit, then this variety is for you. ‘Rogers Rebellion’ geums have handsome, unusual, dark red stems and buds which then open to dainty, nodding, raspberry-coloured flowers with sweet cream undertones. These hardy plants will thrive in both full sun or partial shade and are ideal for borders as well as making gorgeous cut flowers. How To Grow Geums Now that you’ve brushed up your knowledge on geums, you are no doubt even keener to introduce them to your garden. Different varieties will have different needs but generally speaking, you will want to plant them in full sun to partial shade and in moisture-retentive soil. Geums thrive in both acidic and alkaline soil, but they will not cope well at all with sodden, saturated soil in the winter months. You can improve the quality of the earth by introducing organic matter before planting. You can then firm the plants in and water regularly, taking extra care in the hotter summer months. Propagating geums is also extremely easy, side shoots can be dug up with little trouble and can then be replanted elsewhere in the garden. They can also be divided in spring and will set seed. Plant Care Happily, geums are really low maintenance, the main thing you need to remember is to deadhead them after flowering. We also highly recommend dividing the plants every three years or so, this will help maintain their strength and encourage more flowering. If you don’t divide your geums, you run the risk of them becoming woody which may result in them dying off. Common Problems Geums are remarkably trouble-free plants, slugs, snails and deer have very little interest in them. The one creature you want to look out for is vine weevils which are, thankfully, very easy to detect. Vine weevils make their presence known by chomping out notches of the foliage and will do so generally between spring and late summer. Vine weevil grubs also enjoy dining out on the roots of geums, and this can be a killer for the plant. If you are battling vine weevils, then we recommend finding products that won’t harm other wildlife, there are plenty to choose from, and many are extremely effective, such as parasitic nematodes, which eat the vine weevil larvae. Geums are generous plants – with minimal effort from the gardener, they can provide a contagious contrast of colour and fabulous foliage that can add drama and depth to your garden. These cheerful chaps can make a real statement and can help to brighten up dark corners and liven up beds and borders. References 1. Trends from the RHS Chelsea Flower Show 2019. (n.d.). Royal Horticultural Society. Retrieved March 16, 2023, from https://www.rhs.org.uk/shows-events/rhs-chelsea-flower-show/news/2019/trendspotting-at-chelsea-2019 2. Avens (Genus Geum). (n.d.). iNaturalist United Kingdom. Retrieved March 16, 2023, from https://uk.inaturalist.org/taxa/55751-Geum 3. A Modern Herbal – Avens. (n.d.). Botanical.com. Retrieved March 16, 2023, from https://www.botanical.com/botanical/mgmh/a/avens083.html
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Maximise Your Courgette Yield With These Growing Tips From Roy Nicol
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Where To Grow Courgettes When To Grow Courgettes Courgette Plant Care Common Problems References A tasty and delicious treat, courgettes are an ideal addition to your vegetable patch. With sunlight and regular watering, your family will be adding courgettes to every meal in no time! Courgettes, also known as Zucchini, are a ‘summer squash’ that was originally cultivated in North America. Overview Botanical Name Cucurbita pepo Common Name(s) Courgette / Zucchini Plant Type Fruit (commonly believed to be a vegetable) Native Area N/A (Cultivated) Hardiness Rating H2 Foliage Large edible leaves Flowers Yellow, edible, followed by the edible fruit When To Sow April, May, June When To Prune August, September, October They can reach up to 1m in length and are part of the Cucurbitaceae family which also contains familiar plants such as squash, pumpkins and gourds.1 If you’ve not seen a courgette before, they are green in appearance and sometimes have streaks of yellow. They’re a firm fruit (often mistaken for a vegetable) and while the outside has a thick green skin, the inside of a courgette is lighter, with a very light yellow interior. In this guide we explore some of the reasons to grow your own courgettes at home, some tips and tricks to grow a bountiful crop and some advice on caring for your delicious green veggies. Growing your own vegetables sounds daunting but, once you get started, can become a really enjoyable and exciting activity! Watching your seeds grow into full-sized vegetables can be very rewarding. Below, we look at some tips for growing your courgettes at home. Where To Grow Courgettes Initially, you will want to sow your seeds in an indoor pot or module tray. It’s important that you sow courgette seeds on their sides initially, to help them push through the soil a little easier. A veg patch is a perfect spot for growing your courgette seeds outside as they enjoy positions in full sun with moist soil. If you don’t have the luxury of a vegetable patch, find a sunny spot in your garden with plenty of space for your courgettes. Remember to acclimatise your veggies first with some shorter periods outdoors (for between ten to fourteen days) before leaving them out in the warm sun permanently. For optimum growth, use free-draining soils enriched with natural materials such as horse manure and homemade compost – courgettes thrive in moist soil conditions, so regular watering is important. “Courgettes will even happily grow in an old compost heap that’s rotted down but not yet spread around the garden,” shares Roy Nicol, a Professional Gardener and Horticultural Consultant. “This is a perfect way to make use of an otherwise unused area of the garden.” When To Grow Courgettes After sowing indoors, you can plant outside once the last frost has been and gone – late May/early June is usually safe. If you’re unable to grow them inside initially, you can plant the seeds directly into your veg patch or outdoor space in June. If (in the typical unpredictable fashion of British weather!) the air suddenly turns cool after you’ve planted them outside, cover them with a cloche or a fleece to protect them from the colder overnight temperatures. Doing so can also help prevent one of the most common diseases that courgettes face called ‘Powdery Mildew’ – more on this later in the article. How Long Do They Take To Grow? If you’ve started with seeds in April, your courgettes should be ready to pick in late July or early August, ideal for a summer salad! It’s important to check them regularly in that time, to stop them from growing too large. Unfortunately, courgettes left to grow bigger than 10cm or so can lose their delicious flavours and smooth textures, so regular picking is important to preserve crop health and flavour. Courgette Plant Care Now you’ve learnt some top tips on getting started with your courgettes, there are a few things to think about when caring for your tasty summer vegetables. As mentioned above, it’s important that they’re kept in full sunlight and covered if the weather suddenly turns cold. Courgettes need plenty of space to grow, so space each plant 60-90cm apart for maximum growth. It’s important that their soil is kept moist at all times, so be sure to regularly water the soil to keep the environment optimal for growth. “It helps to plant courgettes in a concave hole improved with plenty of organic matter such as manure,” shares Roy. “This feeds the plant and encourages water to funnel down to the roots of the plant.” However, when watering, don’t water the courgettes themselves – instead, water the soil around them to keep their environment moist and nutritious. Common Problems Slugs & Snails There are a couple of common pests and diseases that might affect your crop of courgettes. The most common enemies of outdoor plants in general are slugs and snails, particularly so for young courgettes. The best way to deal with this on a vegetable patch is by using slug pellets (take care to use pellets certified for organic use made with ferric phosphate which beneficially breaks down into the soil) and/or a physical barrier to deter them (such as sheep wool or broken egg shells), especially in the crucial early growing stages. “Another effective organic method of slug control is applying nematodes to the soil, as these kill slugs and deter snails,” Roy adds. Once the courgettes are older and stronger, these can be removed and the courgettes will be able to handle slug and snail damage. Powdery Mildew One of the most common diseases that affects courgettes (as well as other plants and trees) is the ‘Powdery Mildew’ fungus, which looks exactly as it sounds! It will be obvious if your plants are affected, as the fungal disease appears with white spots or patches on the leaves. It mainly attacks when there are uneven temperatures and water levels, often caused by cooler nights and warmer days in the summer months. It’s important also to check that your soil is draining freely and that each of your courgettes have enough space to grow, and aren’t overcrowded. Once you’ve removed the affected leaves, add some additional grass clippings or compost to your soil to retain moisture, and keep up-to-date with your regular watering schedule! Fusarium wilt Another common garden fungal disease is Fusarium Wilt. It’s particularly attracted to plants and vegetables as it survives indefinitely and spreads by contaminating soil – this means that it can quickly spread between plants in close proximity, such as those in a vegetable patch. The Furasium works its way into the roots of young vegetables and plants and blocks the vessels which absorb and transport nutrients and water to the plant. Generally, it manifests as wilting initially, followed by a lack of plant growth which may then lead to the plant dying. Although it sounds scary, it can be prevented with good hygiene practices – rotating plants and sterilising any new plants which are added to the garden or vegetable patch. Blossom End Rot Courgette rot or ‘Blossom End Rot’ will turn one end of your vegetables a yellow or brown colour. If only a small portion is affected, you can safely cut off the end and enjoy the rest of the vegetable. However, if the entire plant is yellow or brown in colour, there’s no going back. Blossom end rot tends to happen if the courgettes are low on calcium, which is usually a result of irregular watering. A lack of water also means a lack of calcium, so the plant won’t be able to draw up the calcium through its roots – this is another reason why regular watering is so crucial for a healthy crop. “As soils almost always have sufficient calcium, some adjustments to the watering regime will ensure the plant can absorb this nutrient adequately,” shares Roy. Luckily, it’s not contagious! Simply pick the affected courgettes, and keep a closer eye on your watering schedule and pH levels to prevent it from happening again. References 1. Courgettes: King of the summer veg. (n.d.). Kew Royal Botanic Gardens. Retrieved March 14, 2023, from https://www.kew.org/read-and-watch/summer-veg-courgette
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Growing Nigella 'Love-In-A-Mist': A Charming Cottage Garden Plant And Prolific Reseeder
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Why Grow Nigella? Common Varieties How To Grow Nigella Planting Plant Care Common Problems References This article is for all you hopeless romantics out there. Nigella, also known as love-in-a-mist is a charming, old-fashioned annual. It produces stunning, solitary flowers which are encased in delicate, feathery bracts which give the impression of the flower being surrounded by mist. Love-in-a-mist blooms in colours of blue, pink, lavender and white and can bring a real sense of magic to your garden. “I have many flowers and plants that I love to photograph, but one of my favourites has to be Nigella damascena because they are so structural,” shares Molly Hollman, an award-winning Photographer. Growing to a height of 15-24 inches and, if there is space, up to a foot in width, this pretty plant is perfect for pots and containers as well as mixed borders and gaps. With its unusual and unique appearance, feathery foliage and fascinating flowers, love-in-a-mist can really provide texture, structure and interest to your garden, making it a firm favourite among gardeners. Overview Botanical Name Nigella Common Name(s) Love-In-A-Mist Plant Type Annual Flower Native Area South Europe, North Africa, South-West Asia Hardiness Rating H3 Foliage Finely dissected leaves Flowers Solitary blue or white flowers When To Sow April, May, September, October Flowering Months June, July, August Nigella ‘love-in-a-mist’ is an upright growing, annual garden flowering plant that has a long season of interest. It is very easy to grow from seed and in the cooler months produces stunning flowers to cut. If you are able to resist cutting the flowers then come summer, you will be rewarded with kooky seed pods. Belonging to the buttercup family, love-in-a-mist is native to Southern Europe, Northern Africa and the South-West of Asia.1 The flowers usually bloom from early summer but can bloom in spring and autumn too, and the plant self-seeds and grows in the same spot year after year. Love-in-a-mist is said to represent harmony and love with the flower symbolising the bonds that bind people together. The seeds of nigella are frequently used in cooking; they are usually dried and can be found in baked goods, pickles, and can also be used as a substitute for pepper. This effortlessly beautiful plant thrives best in full sun to partial shade and prefers moist, well-drained soil. Why Grow Nigella? With their quirky and unique beauty, it is hard to find a reason not to love these gorgeous plants. But if you are still not sold, here are a few more reasons to fall in love with them: This plant is great for sowing over spring bulbs; once the bulbs have finished blooming, nigella will take the stage and keep your garden looking glorious and filling up unsightly gaps. As spring bulbs go over, autumn sown Nigella will start to take over and by early summer will be in flower. They may even be in flower to accompany late Tulips, so bear this in mind when considering colour combinations. Nigella is a fabulous cut flower making for charming displays. The funky seed pods are also a great addition to both fresh and dried arrangements. It makes a charming choice for informal cottage gardens, but given how well it does in pots and containers, it can work beautifully in any garden no matter the size or style. Nigella is a prolific reseeder so, once planted, they will reward you with flowers year after year. Common Varieties Now that you’ve decided that your garden is simply crying out for love-in-a-mist, then it’s time to choose the right one for your garden. There are many varieties to choose from, so we’ve picked out some of our favourites to help you get started. ‘Miss Jekyll Dark Blue’ This popular, upright, bushy variety boasts stunning, dark blue blooms which are then followed with decorative, balloon-shaped seed pods which are a quirky addition for dried flower displays. Growing to a height of 18 inches and 12 inches in width, this cultivar will is unfussy and will grow in any well-drained soil. Plant ‘Miss Jekyll Dark Blue’ where it can receive full sun, and it will reward you with a fabulous display. This species of love-in-a-mist is ideal for flower borders and beds, city and country courtyards, cottage gardens and pots and containers for patios and decking. ‘Miss Jekyll Alba’ This splendid variety is very similar to the ‘Miss Jekyll Dark Blue’ but instead sports pretty ornate white flowers and bright green seed pods. These will thrive in all the same spots as the previous species; however, they are particularly useful for brightening up sunny borders. ‘Miss Jekyll Alba’ usually grows up to 20 inches in height and the same in width and is easy to care for, requires little pruning and is generally problem-free when it comes to pests and diseases. This variety blooms between July and September and will thrive in moist, well-drained soil, full sun and in a sheltered spot. ‘Blue Midget’ This dwarf nigella is a little shorter than other varieties and only grows to around 10 inches in height, making it a brilliant option for edging. It has beautiful sky-blue flowers and the same ferny, misty foliage as other members of the love-in-a-mist family. ‘Blue Midget’ nigellas prefer moist, well-drained soil and full sun although they will tolerate partial shade. You can either sow your seeds between March and May, or in autumn, and they will bloom the following year. You can cut flowers regularly to encourage growth and prolong the flowering window. You will also need to deadhead them if you do not wish them to reseed. ‘Persian Jewels’ This type of love-in-a-mist produces a gorgeous jumble of bloom colours in shades of blue, purple, pink and white. ‘Persian Jewels’ grow from 12-18 inches in height and are perfect for bedding. They also make exquisite cut flowers and look simply stunning in a vase. The seeds of this variety have a strong aroma and spicy taste and can be used to great effect in cooking and baking, adding a burst of flavour to bread, cakes and curries. You should plant nigella in moist, well-drained soil and full sun and will flower from June to August. How To Grow Nigella Now that you have your heart set on planting nigellas and have chosen the perfect ones for your garden, it’s time to get started. Thankfully these pretty plants are straightforward to grow and care for and are very low maintenance, and we’ve put together everything you need to know to get it right the first time. Planting Love-in-a-mist does not do well being transplanted, so growing from seed is the best way to go. You can sow seeds from early spring and all through summer for same year flowering, or in autumn so they will flower the following year. Sowing seeds is simple, just scatter them in your chosen spot and gently rake them in. Don’t worry about covering them with soil but do ensure they are pressed in slightly and kept nice and moist. For the best result, choose a sunny, sheltered location. Love-in-a-mist is a short-lived plant, but you can keep the flowers going by continuing to sow every four weeks or so. The bonus of them being short-lived means they tend to remain trouble-free as pests and diseases don’t have time to take hold. Container Growing Love-in-a-mist makes a stunning addition to pots and containers. You can give them the best shot by sowing them inside and keeping them indoors for around six weeks. You can then place the pot or container outside in a sunny, sheltered spot. As previously mentioned, these plants do not tolerate being transplanted well, so make sure you plant them in a pot or container with adequate space so you can avoid repotting. Soil Requirements Love-in-a-mist is remarkably unfussy but will thrive best in fertile, nutrient-rich soil, and while the soil needs to be moist, they don’t enjoy sitting in wet earth. This plucky plant will also tolerate drier conditions and other types of soil including gravelly types, clay and clay-loam. Plant Care Watering During dry periods we recommend watering your nigella at least a couple of times a week, always check the moisture of the soil and then water accordingly. Fertilising If you want you can add a general-purpose fertiliser when you sow your seeds and then fertilise again around a month later. Pruning If you want to keep your plant flowering longer, you can deadhead or cut the flowers. That said, this will mean you will sacrifice the quirky seed pods which will also mean the plants won’t self-seed – meaning you will have to sow a fresh batch the following year. Common Problems This fabulous flowering annual rarely suffers from pests and diseases. That said, whiteflies, thrips and other common pests may find their way in. If this occurs, simply spray the plant down with a hose and this will wash the pests away without damaging any flowers. As you can see, this gorgeous plant is one of a kind. It’s easy to grow and easy to care for, making it easy to see why this plant has been popular for so many years. It’ll add so much colour, texture and interest to your garden. Be sure to research your chosen variety to give them the best start and they will reward you with their exquisite aesthetic year after year. References 1. S. (n.d.-f). Love-in-a-Mist, Nigella damascena. Wisconsin Horticulture. Retrieved March 21, 2023, from https://hort.extension.wisc.edu/articles/love-in-a-mist-nigella-damascena/
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You'll Want To Follow These Important Rules If Growing Senecio ‘Strings Of Pearls’
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Growing Indoors Hardiness Moving Outdoors Soil Requirements Sunlight & Aspect Ongoing Care Common Problems References Some plants just have a natural wow factor; something that sets them apart from the run-of-the-mill contenders. Maybe it’s the way they look, the beauty of their bloom, or even a particularly captivating scent. When it comes to Senecio ‘String of Pearls’, it’s definitely the way they look. Those cascading pearls – or beads, as some people call them – are unlike anything else in the plant world. They’ll catch the eye of even your least attentive visitors, and will make a great addition to your home as a result. Overview Botanical Name Senecio rowleyanus Common Name(s) String of Pearls / String of Beads Plant Type Succulent / Houseplant Native Area South-West Africa Hardiness Rating H1A Foliage Succulent leaves, trailing, like pearls or beads The string of pearls originally hails from southwest Africa but has become popular in the UK since its introduction.1 It’s interesting to note that the hanging beads in the picture above don’t hang in that way in the wild. Instead, they spread out across the ground into a thick mat. String of pearls only hangs downward when it’s kept in a pot high above the ground, and gravity can get involved. In a healthy plant, the vines can trail to over 80cm in length, which is truly impressive. Although it may not look like it, string of pearls is a succulent. The little beads store water for drier times: a survival mechanism arising from the plant’s hot African origins. Like other succulents, string of pearls is fleshy, thick-skinned, and attractive. The plant is a perennial vine and, although it looks nothing like it, is part of the daisy family. The scientific name is Senecio rowleyanus but, as usual, there’s a common name that rolls off the tongue much better – you’ll most likely see the plant called ‘String of Pearls’, but some people prefer ‘String of Beads‘. (At least there’s agreement that the stringy appearance is the most striking aspect of the plant!) Growing Indoors Be warned: this plant can be quite challenging. For novice gardeners, make sure you’re aware of the work involved before committing. As a succulent, it’s really important not to water your string of pearls too often. These plants have evolved to make do with minimal water, so saturating them too often will do more harm than good. The best measure of when to water is when the soil feels completely dry. String of pearls doesn’t need a large pot or container as it has a small root system. While most plants need space to breathe, too much space can work against string of pearls by making it harder for the soil to dry properly. Hardiness As a plant hailing from arid regions of Africa, string of pearls is relatively resilient. However, if you’re reading this, you’ll likely be growing yours in a region with a completely different climate. Unfortunately, this often results in UK gardeners struggling to keep their string of pearls healthy. It’s a finickity plant, and there are a good few indications that yours may not be thriving. Here’s what to look for: Shrivelling pearls Stems dying off Thin stems or pearls The next sections give guidance on how to best care for your string of pearls. Follow these tips, and you should have a healthy and happy plant. Moving Outdoors It’s not hard to see why a plant with African heritage won’t thrive in British winter. Our average temperatures often dip far below the string of pearls’ ideal, and in winter they drop even further, falling below the lowest temperatures the plant can handle, around 0°C. Even variegated options are available So, keeping your plant indoors for most of the year is the best bet. In the summer months, though, you have the option to treat the plant to a short spell in the sun. It’s not compulsory, but if you choose to do this, here’s how to do it: Put your string of pearls somewhere bright, but not in direct sunlight. Full sun exposure can burn the pearls. Try to find a spot where the plant gets sun in the morning or evening, but not during the heat of the day. Be vigilant with watering: don’t water too often, but don’t let the plant stay completely dry for too long. As you can see, some care tips are tricky because it depends on the exact conditions where you’re growing. If your string of pearls is likely to get rained on quite a lot, consider covering it or moving it indoors briefly to protect it. “I have found that shelves adjacent to windows seem to provide enough light whilst avoiding scorching,” shares Horticultural Consultant Colin Skelly. “They also provide the perfect perch from which S. rowleyanus can trail.” Soil Requirements This plant likes to dry out completely between waterings, so you need to choose a soil which is conducive to this outcome. Something with large particles to allow good drainage, so keep an eye out for soil with sand, silt, or clay. Other gardeners also recommend adding pumice or other ingredients to aerate the soil more. Whatever soil you use, take care not to water an indoor string of pearls until it’s pretty much completely dried out. Sunlight & Aspect You want to choose a place for your Senecio that’s not too close to windows that have the sun shining through for large chunks of the day. North- or east-facing windows are the best bet for your string of pearls, as they’ll give the plant light without risking burning or sun damage. In the winter, when daylight hours are shorter, and the sun is less intense, you can move your string of pearls closer to a south- or west-facing window. This will ensure it receives enough sunlight, and the reduced intensity means the risk of burn is lowered. Water less in the colder months, too. Keep an eye on the condition of the plant in all seasons and rejig the location if it’s not thriving. Ongoing Care As we’ve said, this plant can be finickity. This section contains a couple more care tips for your plant, designed to keep it in the best possible shape. Misting To keep your string of pearls in the best health, resist the urge to mist it. While some houseplants benefit from misting, this one has evolved to survive in dry and arid environments. Too much moisture can actually be counterproductive, leading to damage and rot. Pruning You can prune withering stems to improve the overall health of the plant. Prune back to a healthy section or, if the whole stem is dying, remove it completely. Common Problems This plant is susceptible to fewer pests than some other houseplants, which is a relief. Here are the main ones you need to look out for: Mealybugs These sap-feeding insects love nothing more than slurping the sap right out of a plant’s leaves. Over time this innocent feeding can cause untold damage to a plant, so it’s essential to be vigilant and deal with any infestations promptly. You’re looking for fluffy white wax or black sooty mould, as well as visible signs of an unhealthy plant like wilting and dying. You can prune infected sections to see if this controls the mealybugs, but if not you may need to turn to stronger tactics. Ladybirds will eat mealybugs, and various pesticides are available if you’d rather not introduce swarms of ladybirds into your home. Aphids Aphids also suck sap, and we have more than 500 species here in the UK. Yikes!2 Aphids are visible with the naked eye, and they also leave behind a black sooty mould. As with mealybugs, a bad infestation will make itself apparent through visible plant damage, so it’s a case of remaining vigilant. You can squash aphids with your fingers if you find them, but if you’re looking for a more sustainable (and less icky) solution, introducing predators or using pesticides are your best bets. References 1. Senecio rowleyanus. (n.d.). Missouri Botanical Garden. Retrieved March 23, 2023, from https://www.missouribotanicalgarden.org/PlantFinder/PlantFinderDetails.aspx?taxonid=277546 2. Aphids | What is an Aphid & What do they Look Like. (n.d.). The RSPB. Retrieved March 23, 2023, from https://www.rspb.org.uk/birds-and-wildlife/wildlife-guides/other-garden-wildlife/insects-and-other-invertebrates/beetles-and-bugs/aphid/
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Why You Should Be Growing Rosemary - A Productive And Surprisingly Hardy Garden Herb
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Why Grow Rosemary? Rosemary Types How To Grow Rosemary Ongoing Plant Care Common Problems References Rosemary is one distinctive herb; its needle-like foliage adds texture and structure to gardens, and its aromatic scent can transport you to a balmy evening somewhere in the Mediterranean. “If I had to pick one plant I couldn’t live without, it would have to be rosemary,” shares Garden Writer Sonya Patel Ellis. “I’ve had one plant in a container for nearly 20 years and it doesn’t matter what you throw at it – drought, snow, high winds, dust from nearby building projects – it just keeps shining through with its dark green, glossy, needle-like evergreen leaves, combined with the prettiest purple and white flowers for most of the year.” This delectable plant is also so easy to grow and produces romantic, delicate, pale blue flowers making it one of the most popular herbs among gardeners in the UK. In fact, rosemary grows so prolifically that managing and pruning are where you’ll spend most of your time caring for this perennial, evergreen shrub. Overview Botanical Name Salvia rosmarinus Common Name(s) Rosemary Plant Type Herb Native Area Mediterranean Hardiness Rating H4-H5 Foliage Needle-like aromatic foliage Flowers Purple, lavender, white When To Sow March, April, May, September, October Flowering Months June, July When To Prune June, July, August, September With recent events in the world, many gardeners are trying to become even more self-sufficient. Including herbs like rosemary in your garden is a great way to do this, and can help you add gorgeous flavour to your meals, without having to make unwanted shopping trips. Rosemary is a fragrant, evergreen herb and, like other herbs such as oregano, lavender, thyme and basil, is a member of the mint family.1 Hailing from the Meditteranean, rosemary favours sunny and sheltered spots and, being an evergreen, its leaves can be harvested year-round.2 Why Grow Rosemary? Rosemary has been a real tradition in country garden cottages for generations, but these days you will see them in much more urban settings thanks to their versatility, charm and many uses. If you have any reservations about growing rosemary, then allow us to elaborate on why it really is the cat’s pyjamas: Rosemary is an excellent addition to many dishes, from roast chicken to roast lamb, salads to soups, not to mention the extra special something they offer for BBQs. This herb is the gift that keeps on giving. It fills your garden with its signature scent. No matter how tiny your garden is, you can still grow rosemary, it grows easily and speedily, making it a rewarding plant for any garden. Rosemary Types There are many, many strains of rosemary spanning a broad spectrum of features. If you are struggling to choose the right variety for your garden, we have put together a list of things to consider. Creeping Rosemary Recommended Variety: Rosmarinus officinalis ‘Prostratus Group’ A low-growing rosemary is a perfect option if you have a modest-sized garden. These varieties are well-suited to pots and containers and will also cascade down beautifully if planted in window boxes and planters. Creeping rosemary varieties grow no taller than 0.5m in height, but they can spread as far as 2-3m wide, which also makes them terrific for trailing over walls. Given how far this rosemary can spread, you will need to either allow for the space they need to grow or prune your plant effectively. “I grow my ‘Prostratus’ types for cascading over the side of containers,” says Sonya. “I recently visited the lovely island of Skyros in Greece and there was the most impressive 5m long clipped hedge of prostrate rosemary that felt and smelled incredible, especially at dusk and dawn. It will forever be imprinted on my senses.” Mid-Height Rosemary Recommended Variety: Salvia rosmarinus ‘Rosea’ As the name suggests, rosemary varieties in this category grow to a mid-height, usually growing no taller than 1m in height and spreading up to 1m in width. This variety can provide great ground cover for slopes and hard-to-reach areas of your garden. That said, with all types of rosemary it will spread as far as it can so if you are planting in a more confined area, you do need to keep an eye on it to prevent it taking over. Tall Rosemary Recommended Variety: S. rosmarinus ‘Albiflora Group’ Needless to say, this category of rosemary represents the tallest growing members of the family. These varieties can grow up to 2.5m tall and up to 2.5m wide. If you have the space for this plant, tall rosemary can bring a tremendous amount of texture, structure and interest to your garden. Smaller varieties make themselves known thanks to their unforgettable fragrance. The taller plants also make their presence known with their unique foliage which comes in shades of deep green, bright green and yellow-gold. How To Grow Rosemary Rosemary grows best in full sun, in a sheltered spot with well-drained soil. If planted straight into the garden then it is likely the young plants will be sitting in wet soil over the winter which can be extremely damaging. For this reason, we recommend planting rosemary in pots and containers and allowing it to establish itself for a few years before transplanting it into your garden. “Mediterranean herbs such as Rosemary do really well in pots because you can create the correct conditions for them by providing gritty, free draining and nutrient-poor soil,” shares Nicola Macnaughton, The Bonnie Gardener. “They hate being in claggy multipurpose compost.” You will also want to keep in mind that, if left to its own devices, rosemary can grow as much as four feet in height and four feet wide. If you are planning on allowing your rosemary to grow that large, then you will need to ensure that you plant it in a space that can accommodate it. Ongoing Plant Care Rosemary is a really low-maintenance plant, but there are a few things you can do to ensure healthy growth: Watering Water rosemary evenly throughout the growing season, taking extra care to do so during dry spells. Take care not to overwater; however, as rosemary will not tolerate sitting in wet soil. Growing Indoors If you are keen on having access to fresh rosemary for cooking during winter, then we recommend either taking a cutting or growing another plant inside. Be sure to place it in a warm sunny spot, away from cold drafts. Winter Care Rosemary that has been grown in the ground will not tolerate being replanted in a pot or container well. For this reason, if you do want fresh rosemary in the winter months, then that plant should be planted and kept in a pot or container which is easy to move in and out of your house. If you are facing a particularly harsh winter where your rosemary may not survive, then be sure to take cuttings for the following season. “Because I grow Rosemary on fertile, moist soil, it tends to grow somewhat lax and straggly after 3-4 years,” says Colin Skelly, a Horticultural Consultant. “After about 3 years, I take cuttings for replanting in year 5 to avoid a plant becoming large and too woody for harvesting.” Common Problems Rosemary is usually pretty unproblematic, but there are a few things to keep an eye out for: Rosemary beetle Aerial blight Bacterial leaf spots Root rot As you can see, rosemary is an incredibly easy and rewarding plant to grow and is sure to make your garden merrier, not to mention your kitchen. Rosemary is an essential herb when cooking and can also be used when making tea; it also fills your garden with its aromatic scent. References 1. Petruzzello, M. (2015a, August 19). List of plants in the family Lamiaceae. Encyclopedia Britannica. Retrieved March 23, 2023, from https://www.britannica.com/topic/list-of-plants-in-the-family-Lamiaceae-2035853 2. Rosemary – Salvia rosmarinus. (n.d.). Kew Royal Botanic Gardens. Retrieved March 23, 2023, from https://www.kew.org/plants/rosemary
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From Bird's Nest Fern To String Of Pearls - 19 Impressive Trailing Houseplants
IN THIS GUIDE Best For Bathrooms 1) Spider Plant 2) Begonias 3) Bird’s Nest Fern 4) Pothos Best For Bright Spots 5) Aloe 6) Dracaena 7) Spiderwort Other Best Picks 8) English Ivy 9) Chinese Evergreen 10) Peace Lily Notable Mentions 11) String Of Pearls 12) Burros Tail 13) Trailing Jade Plant 14) Red Herringbone 15) Monstera 16) Philodendron 17) Moth Orchid 18) Goldfish Plant 19) Turtle Vine References Trailing houseplants are the ideal addition to the home; boosting its appearance as well as the lives of the occupants! Houseplants are the perfect low-maintenance way to liven up a room. We explore nineteen of the best trailing indoor houseplants for the different rooms in your home, the benefits of house plant ownership and even some tips on taking care of your new houseguests. Philodendron is a popular trailing plant Best For Bathrooms The bathroom is the most humid room in the house. Regardless of sunlight levels in the room, the environment works perfectly for many types of tropical plants which thrive in the heat. We’ll guide you through some of the best houseplants for bathrooms with options for sunlight-filled and windowless rooms alike. 1) Spider Plant BOTANICAL NAME: CHLOROPHYTUM COMOSUM HARDINESS RATING: H2 SUNLIGHT: BRIGHT BUT INDIRECT WATERING: ONCE PER WEEK Considered by experts as the easiest and most adaptable of houseplants to take care of, the Spider Plant or Chlorophytum comosum is the perfect addition to your bathroom shelves.1 Low-maintenance in its nature, the plant comes in a range of green and yellow hues and grows up to 3 feet long in the right conditions. They can be used as trailing potted plants, or hung in a hanging basket depending on the space available and your decor preferences. Although they tend to prefer bright light, they can handle life in low light conditions with less humidity, if required. One of the best parts of raising a Spider Plant is the creation of baby Spider Plants! These can be re-potted and used throughout the home, or given as gifts to others. So, if you’re looking for a plant that doesn’t need hand-holding to grow big and strong, a Spider Plant could be perfect for your home. 2) Begonias BOTANICAL NAME: BEGONIA SUNLIGHT: BRIGHT BUT INDIRECT WATERING: DRY OUT BETWEEN WATERING; REDUCE IN WINTER Another plant that thrives in humid environments is the Begonia. Native to the tropical climates of South and Central America, Africa and south Asia, Begonias have over 1,800 different species ranging from small houseplants to five-foot tall bushy plants.2 As a result, begonias are naturally pest-resistant, giving you one less thing to worry about. Of the three main types of begonia (fibrous, rhizomatous and tuberous), the most appropriate for the bathroom are the fibrous and rhizomatous types. Unfortunately, the tuberous begonia will struggle in UK households as it requires more humidity and light than is available in the average bathroom. Begonias come with a more delicate balancing act than most indoor plants, where humidity is important, but too much water can water-log the plants and cause problems such as root rot – so don’t be overzealous with the watering can! If you’ve chosen a floral begonia, a sunny spot in the bathroom is perfect, with some direct sunlight. However, begonias with foliage will need a sunny location away from direct sunlight to grow. 3) Bird’s Nest Fern BOTANICAL NAME: ASPLENIUM NIDUS HARDINESS RATING: H1B SUNLIGHT: MODERATE AND INDIRECT WATERING: KEEP MOIST; NOT WATERLOGGED Although there are plenty of species of fern to choose from, the bird’s nest fern or Asplenium nidus is particularly suited to bathroom environments. As some of the oldest plants in the world, ferns have made their way into homes for decades now, having adapted to cooler climates – in contrast with their native environments of tropical Africa and tropical Asia.3 The bird’s nest fern is a delightful green leafy plant that enjoys moderate, indirect sunlight as long as it’s in a warm and moist environment. Its large fronds can grow quite quickly, with the newer leaves growing from the centerpoint of the plant. The fronds of this particular fern can grow as large as 150cm in length and 20cm in width, making them the perfect plant for lower bathroom shelves. Again, due to their native home, there’s a delicate balancing act in place when growing and taking care of a fern; be sure to provide moist compost without overwatering, and stay away from watering the plant itself. 4) Pothos BOTANICAL NAME: EPIPREMNUM AUREUM HARDINESS RATING: H1B SUNLIGHT: LOW AND INDIRECT WATERING: ONCE PER WEEK; REDUCE IN WINTER Great for bathroom counters, the pothos is ideal for bathrooms with less natural light – thriving in low and indirect light environments. Pothos plants are tough and easy to care for, with fast growth rates that flourish and trail to lengths of up to 9m! Realistically for bathroom space and as an indoor plant, they are kept much shorter than this with semi-regular pruning. Leafy and green in appearance, the plant (also known as ‘Devil’s Ivy’) has heart-shaped leaves with touches of light green, yellow and white hues. The colour of their leaves are also a good indicator of plant health; they may turn all green with a distinct lack of sunlight, or suddenly turn pale if they’re getting too much sun. These plants are also adaptable in other rooms throughout the house with a lack of sunlight and, again, are another easy plant that doesn’t like regular watering. Leave the soil to dry out entirely to avoid root rot and accidental overwatering, with droopy leaves working as a good indicator of this.4 Best For Bright Spots While bathrooms aren’t always the brightest areas of the home, there are a number of beautiful trailing houseplants with easy-maintenance that bask in regular or direct sunlight to grow. 5) Aloe BOTANICAL NAME: ALOE vera HARDINESS RATING: H1C SUNLIGHT: BRIGHT; DIRECT OR INDIRECT WATERING: DRY OUT BETWEEN WATERING Another plant that doesn’t need regular watering and possibly the most well-known house plant of all, it wouldn’t be an indoor houseplant list without an aloe! Green and spiky in appearance, aloe plants in the wild can grow up to heights of 100cm tall, although the varieties for indoor use generally max out at heights much shorter than this. Aloe plants grow well in areas with bright, direct sunlight – so although they can thrive in bathrooms, any area in your house that’s close to a window will keep your aloe plant happy. With over 400 types to choose from, the Aloe vera is one of the most common choices for houseplants.5 6) Dracaena BOTANICAL NAME: DRACAENA REFLEXA VAR. ANGUSTIFOLIA HARDINESS RATING: H1B SUNLIGHT: BRIGHT BUT INDIRECT WATERING: DRY OUT BETWEEN WATERING The Dracaena or ‘Dragon Tree’ is a beautifully tall addition to any house. With stiff, tall leaves, they’re notoriously easy to grow indoors and perfect for green-thumbed beginners. When grown in their native areas of Madagascar and Mauritius, the Dragon Tree grows up to 6m in height!6 As an indoor houseplant, they generally reach heights of 2m or so, tolerating a wide range of temperatures and climates. This is another plant that enjoys indirect light, and needs watering every 2-3 weeks or so, once the top half of the soil is dry. Brown leaves are a sign of overwatering the dragon tree, and yellow leaves can be an indicator of thirst. 7) Spiderwort BOTANICAL NAME: TRADESCANTIA HARDINESS RATING: H1C SUNLIGHT: BRIGHT BUT INDIRECT WATERING: KEEP MOIST; MIST REGULARLY Native to southern Canada and northern Argentina, the Tradescantia is a house plant with colourful leaves ranging in appearance from silver and purple to green. Perfect as a hanging plant or trailing potted plant indoors, there are over 70 species of Tradescantia to choose from to brighten up your home. Depending on the variety you choose, this plant generally thrives in bright spots indoors and outdoors alike. For example, the ‘Green Hill’ species simply needs some frequent indirect sunlight, whereas the Purple Spiderwort is a durable choice of indoor plant that can survive in temperatures as low as -4°C, making them perfect for colder rooms in the house and the winter months. Interestingly, studies showed that the Purple Spiderwort in particular was especially skilled at removing indoor toxins and harmful volatile organic compounds (or VOCs) from household air.7 Other Best Picks Here’s a few more notable mentions for trailing houseplants that bring a range of benefits to your home: 8) English Ivy BOTANICAL NAME: HEDERA HELIX HARDINESS RATING: H5 SUNLIGHT: ANY WATERING: DRY OUT BETWEEN WATERING One of the more classic and well-known trailing houseplants, the English Ivy or Hedera helix is a common species of Ivy that thrives in a range of lighting and soil conditions. Native to Europe and western Asia, the English ivy is often seen on the sides of British pavements, brick walls and on the fronts of older houses! The English ivy is an easy-growing and robust plant with a range of cultivars such as the ‘Fluffy Ruffles’ with ruffled leaves, the ‘Gold Baby’ which has a beautiful golden edge to its leaves or the ‘Midas Touch’ with reddish stems and climbing attributes. Grow your English ivy in a plant pot or up in a couple of hanging baskets to emphasise its beautiful trailing appearance. 9) Chinese Evergreen BOTANICAL NAME: AGLAONEMA COMMUTATUM HARDINESS RATING: H1B SUNLIGHT: LOW AND INDIRECT WATERING: ONCE PER WEEK; REDUCE IN WINTER The Chinese Evergreen is another striking house plant to add to a modern home. The Evergreen thrives in low-lit and humid conditions, so would work well in a bathroom. However, the durable plant can be kept elsewhere in the house with occasional misting to the leaves to keep them their striking green and yellow colour, while keeping away dust. An effective cleanser, the plant was another participant in the NASA study where it was scientifically proven to break down formaldehyde and benzene from the air, which can make their way into the household from detergents, cosmetics and even wooden furniture!8 10) Peace Lily BOTANICAL NAME: SPATHIPHYLLUM WALLISII HARDINESS RATING: H1B SUNLIGHT: MEDIUM BUT INDIRECT WATERING: DRY OUT BETWEEN WATERING Finally, the Peace Lily is probably one of the most striking indoor plants. Perfect for livening up any room, they appear with dark green leaves and a white leaf bract called a spathe. As with many indoor houseplants, peace lilies thrive in medium to low-light conditions. However, the plants and its flowers will vary in appearance depending on how much light they get; more light usually means more flowers, and less light will lead to fewer blooms, and more of a foliage look. The most common reason for a peace lily to die is overwatering – so keep your watering can at bay until the leaves begin to droop! Notable Mentions We couldn’t write about trailing houseplants without showcasing the following nine plants: 11) String Of Pearls BOTANICAL NAME: SENECIO ROWLEYANUS HARDINESS RATING: H2 SUNLIGHT: BRIGHT BUT INDIRECT WATERING: ONCE PER FORTNIGHT; REDUCE IN WINTER A succulent which is easy to grow indoors, this plant has a unique trailing appearance with long threads of ‘pearl’ shaped foliage. It is extremely tolerant of drought and can survive long periods without being watered, making it very easy to care for. 12) Burros Tail BOTANICAL NAME: SEDUM MORGANIANUM HARDINESS RATING: H1C SUNLIGHT: BRIGHT BUT INDIRECT WATERING: ONCE PER MONTH Sedum morganianum, commonly known as ‘burros tail’ or ‘donkey tail’ is another interesting looking plant that is sure to stand out. As a sedum, the plant prefers warm temperatures that match its native region of Southern Mexico, meaning it works well as a houseplant. As a succulent, the plant needs infrequent watering and should be placed in a bright location with indirect sunlight. 13) Trailing Jade Plant BOTANICAL NAME: PEPEROMIA PROSTRATA SUNLIGHT: BRIGHT BUT INDIRECT WATERING: DRY OUT BETWEEN WATERING Trailing Jade is a succulent which, despite looking a lot like the Jade Plant, is a member of a completely separate genus. It is tolerant of neglect, requires infrequent watering and a location that is bright but doesn’t usually receive direct sunlight (which may scorch the leaves of the plant). 14) Red Herringbone BOTANICAL NAME: MARANTA LEUCONEURA VAR. ERYTHRONEURA HARDINESS RATING: H1A SUNLIGHT: BRIGHT BUT INDIRECT WATERING: KEEP MOIST; REDUCE IN WINTER This popular houseplant has stunning foliage and is known for its distinct red veins and variegated leaves, which often trail over the edge of the pot. If you’re looking for a statement plant this would make an excellent choice. This plant does require more regular watering than other options but it is important to keep the soil moist but never waterlogged. Choose a south-facing windowsill that avoids direct sunlight for this plant to thrive. 15) Monstera BOTANICAL NAME: MONSTERA DELICIOSA HARDINESS RATING: H1B SUNLIGHT: BRIGHT BUT INDIRECT WATERING: ONCE PER WEEK Potentially the most instantly recognisable of all houseplants, Monstera has seen a huge surge in popularity over recent years. While it might not strictly be classed as a ‘trailing’ plant, the characterful foliage will grow outwards and often spill over the edges of its pot. They prefer to be watered every week or two and should be kept out of direct sunlight which can cause the leaves to yellow. A bright (but indirect) location will cause the plant to develop holes which give it the apt name of ‘swiss cheese plant’. 16) Philodendron BOTANICAL NAME: PHILODENDRON HARDINESS RATING: H1B SUNLIGHT: MEDIUM BUT INDIRECT WATERING: ONCE PER 1-2 WEEKS Philodendron is an evergreen perennial and a native of Central America. It thrives in indirect light and requires infrequent watering (usually every 1-2 weeks will suffice). For trailing varieties, look for Heartleaf Philodendron or Philodendron ‘Brasil’. 17) Moth Orchid BOTANICAL NAME: PHALAENOPSIS SUNLIGHT: BRIGHT BUT INDIRECT WATERING: KEEP MOIST; MIST REGULARLY The Orchid is certainly unlikely to be considered a traditional trailing plant, but the foliage and flowers of some varieties will spill over the sides of their container and hang down in a trailing form. The variety pictured above (a Moth Orchid) has stunning patterned flowers in white and pink. Unlike other plants in this list, orchids will need regular daily care, with misting required daily when they’re not dormant. They will also require fertilising every 1-2 weeks using a specific orchid fertiliser. It can be difficult to replicate the humid, tropical conditions they thrive in (especially here in the UK) but they are beautiful and rewarding plants to grow. “Moth Orchids are best watered once a week and excess water must drain away so the plants don’t sit in water,” shares Master Horticulturist Roy Nicol. “Using orchid compost made of bark helps to achieve this.” 18) Goldfish Plant BOTANICAL NAME: NEMATANTHUS GREGARIUS HARDINESS RATING: H1B SUNLIGHT: BRIGHT BUT INDIRECT WATERING: TWICE PER WEEK; DON’T ALLOW SOIL TO DRY OUT The Goldfish Plant owes its name to the many tiny yellow flowers which bloom in a shape reminiscent of small orange fish. It is native to the tropical areas of Central America and thrives in warm conditions that are out of direct sunlight. With the right care (and plenty of bright, but indirect, sunlight) your plant should bloom heavily in the summer months. 19) Turtle Vine BOTANICAL NAME: CALLISIA REPENS SUNLIGHT: BRIGHT BUT INDIRECT WATERING: KEEP MOIST; NOT WATERLOGGED Callisia repens (also known as ‘Turtle Vine’) is a succulent with beautiful cascading leaves that will trail out of its growing container. Bright but indirect light is ideal with moist but well-drained soil. Overwatering is a common issue, meaning you should always allow the topsoil to fully dry out before watering your Turtle Vine. References 1. Mahr, S. (n.d.-l). Spider plant, Chlorophytum comosum. Wisconsin Horticulture. Retrieved March 27, 2023, from https://hort.extension.wisc.edu/articles/spider-plant-chlorophytum-comosum/ 2. Tian, D., Xiao, Y., Tong, Y., Fu, N. F., Liu, Q., & Li, C. (2018b). Diversity and conservation of Chinese wild begonias. Plant Diversity, 40(3), 75–90. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.pld.2018.06.002 3. Aldasoro, J. J., Cabezas, F., & Aedo, C. (2004). Diversity and distribution of ferns in sub-Saharan Africa, Madagascar and some islands of the South Atlantic. Journal of Biogeography, 31(10), 1579–1604. https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1365-2699.2004.01106.x 4. Sawwan, JS. (1987). A Study of Pothos (Epipremnum Aureum) Water Requirements. Retrieved March 27, 2023, from https://www.ideals.illinois.edu/items/71949 5. Guo, X., & Mei, N. (2016). Aloe vera: A review of toxicity and adverse clinical effects. Journal of Environmental Science and Health, Part A, 34(2), 77–96. https://doi.org/10.1080/10590501.2016.1166826 6. Dracaena reflexa var. angustifolia. (n.d.). Kew Royal Botanic Gardens. Retrieved October 30, 2023, from https://powo.science.kew.org/taxon/urn:lsid:ipni.org:names:77189099-1 7. Yang, D. H., Pennisi, S. V., Son, K., & Kays, S. J. (2009). Screening Indoor Plants for Volatile Organic Pollutant Removal Efficiency. Hortscience, 44(5), 1377–1381. https://doi.org/10.21273/hortsci.44.5.1377 8. Wolverton, B., Douglas, W., & Bounds, K. (1989, July 1). A Study of Interior Landscape Plants for Indoor Air Pollution Abatement. NASA Technical Reports Server (NTRS). Retrieved March 27, 2023, from https://ntrs.nasa.gov/citations/19930072988
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Growing ZZ Plant With Jane Perrone: It's Low Care And Highly Tolerant Of A Lack Of Watering
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Why Grow Zamioculcas zamiifolia? Habitat & Growing Conditions Container Growing Plant Care Propagation References Zamioculcas zamiifolia, as well as being a terrible tongue twister, is an evergreen perennial that works well as a houseplant because it is very tolerant of neglect. Also known as ‘ZZ Plant’, ‘Zanzibar Gem’ and ‘Fern Alum’, this plant is excellent for those who don’t necessarily have the best track record when it comes to keeping houseplants alive. Its large water-storing rhizomes mean that it is tolerant of a lack of watering, and it can thrive in a range of conditions inside your home, as Jane Perrone, houseplant expert, explains: “I’d always recommend Zamioculcas zamiifolia to a beginner, as it is a fascinating plant that is really tough to kill. “The only way you might kill it is if you are too generous with watering it. It’s a really nice plant, easy to grow and can take a lot of droughts.” Overview Botanical Name Zamioculcas zamiifolia Common Name(s) ZZ Plant, Zanzibar Gem, Fern Alum Plant Type Houseplant Native Area East African Tropics Hardiness Rating H1A Foliage Architectural, sprawling foliage When To Sow Year-Round ZZ plant is an evergreen perennial plant native to the East African Tropics.1 It is thought to originate primarily in Tanzania and Kenya, but grows widely across Central Africa and the east African coast. In its natural environment, it is found in rocky soil in lowlands and the foothills of Highland regions. In its native range, it is habituated to (and can thrive) when exposed to long periods of very dry weather with sporadic torrential downpours. ‘Reservoirs’ within the plant allow it to rapidly store water, and draw upon it for long periods of time – making it highly tolerant of infrequent watering. It has smooth, shiny green leaves that rise vertically, with 6-8 pairs of leaflets on each one. One or two un-showy green and white flowers (like those of an arum) may appear among the leaf bases in summer, followed by white berries. Why Grow Zamioculcas zamiifolia? In recent years, ZZ plant has most certainly become more popular in homes and office spaces. It is highly regarded for its strong architectural and dramatic form and is also prized for its ability to thrive with little water and in a range of different interior climate conditions. If you are rather forgetful with your watering habits, you might find that this plant could even thrive when given infrequent watering. It also grows relatively slowly, so there are few concerns that it will outgrow a space (especially if you are limited on this front). Habitat & Growing Conditions ZZ Plant can be great on coffee tables, on desks, or in other locations in interior design. “The ZZ plant is the quintessential coffee table or desk plant for your office,” says Horticultural Consultant Colin Skelly. “It will tolerate irregular watering, in fact, it will prefer this over overwatering. It will also tolerate anything but very strong light. A perfect plant for the beginner or those who think they always kill plants.” Temperature This is a plant that can grow in low light or much brighter conditions. It requires temperatures above 8°C to survive – though typically a healthy plant should not be kept in conditions below 15°C – and it grows best in temperatures between 15-24°C. Sunlight ZZ plant can be slower to grow where there is not as much sunlight. This means that bright light will generally lead to larger plants (with long leaves with leaflets that are up to 2-3 ft long). However, where there is more light, more water will be needed – and it is best to avoid direct sunlight. Due to its larger form, ZZ plant should be positioned where it has space above it to grow; it can look good on a table or desk display. Humidity The humidity levels that are typical for a domestic property should work well for this plant – but if the heating system is particularly drying, it may be a good idea to mist to increase air humidity. Container Growing In terms of the container you choose, it is essential to choose containers which have good drainage holes at the bottom. ZZ plant can tolerate a lot, but it will not like having ‘wet feet’. The container should allow water to drain freely. A clay pot can be ideal because it will dry out more easily; a plastic pot (in addition to being a less eco-friendly choice) can increase water retention, which can potentially cause problems for the roots of this drought-tolerant plant. Another reason that a clay pot could be a good idea is that it is heavier, so will be less likely to tip over as your ZZ Plant grows vertically. Do not choose a pot that is oversized for your plant – aim for around an inch of space around the root system. Pot up your plant once a year in early spring – this is especially important during the first 3-5 years of the plant’s growth. Less frequent repotting will be required for more mature plants. To fill the container, choose a well-draining potting mix; a homemade compost or leaf mould mix with plenty of sharp sand or grit mixed in. Plant Care ZZ Plant, as mentioned above, is extremely easy to care for. Watering If you have struggled before with houseplants due to lack of watering – you may have more luck with this plant because it will tend to survive even the most neglectful of indoor gardeners. There is just one key thing to remember: the more light your ZZ plant gets, the more water it needs. If your plant is positioned in lower light conditions, you should reduce your watering accordingly. The main way that you could go wrong is simply by watering too much. Less is more when it comes to watering this type of houseplant – one thing that ZZ plant most definitely won’t like is having too much water in the growing medium around its roots for too long. Allow the growing medium to become dry at the top to the touch before watering again: simply poke a finger into the top of the pot or container. If there is any moisture detectable, wait a little longer before you water again. Note – a few lower leaves turning yellow is normal. However, if many leaves are yellowing, this may be a sign that you are watering too much. Mulching It can be a good idea to use grit or another soil cover on the top of the growing medium around your plants, to improve drainage and make sure that water does not pool on the surface around your plant. This can also help prevent the growing medium from splashing up onto the lower leaves when you water. You could also use a more decorative mulch such as shells or glass beads in order to tie your plants in with your interior design scheme. Feeding ZZ plant is a low-maintenance option and as long as you have used a relatively fertile growing medium, it does not necessarily have to be fertilised at all. However, if your plant looks a little lacking in lustre, you can give it a boost. Between April and August, feed the plant around once a month with a balanced, organic liquid fertiliser. If the leaf tips turn brown, your plant does not usually need fertiliser; it is more likely that humidity is too low. Mist your plant to raise the air moisture around your plant. If the leaflets turn brown and are a bit damp to the touch, overwatering is usually the issue. Pruning You will not usually need to worry much about pruning your Zamioculcas zamiifolia. Most of the time, you will just keep your plant looking good by cutting away any leaflets that turn yellow near the base of the vertical leaves. Occasionally, you may also wish to prune out certain leaves in order to improve the overall appearance of your plant. Some of the leaves will tend to grow vertically, while others may tend to arch over. Cutting your plant to size at the tip will make it look odd, so it is best to cut off leaves that you do not like for the overall appearance of your plant at the base. Propagation Propagation of ZZ Plant is relatively easy and straightforward. If you want more than one plant, you can simply purchase one and propagating from this plant will be easy enough to increase your stock. You can propagate Z. zamiifolia by means of rhizome division, or through leaf cuttings. Leaf cuttings (individual leaflets) are left to cure (dry) and then placed in a pot with a suitable growing medium – a plastic covering is used over this pot to retain moisture, and the wait begins for roots to form. Note that it could take up to a year for successful rooting to take place. It won’t take much work or effort on your part to keep your ZZ Plant looking good in your home for years to come – so even if you have struggled in the past to keep green things going, this could be an interesting and easy option to consider. ZZ plant is a gateway to growing, which can allow even the botanically challenged to enjoy green inside their homes. References 1. Zamioculcas zamiifolia. (n.d.). Kew Royal Botanic Gardens. Retrieved March 27, 2023, from https://powo.science.kew.org/taxon/urn:lsid:ipni.org:names:89402-1
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