Growing
Kalanchoe Succulents Make A Great Choice For Houseplant Lovers: How To Grow Yours
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Kalanchoe Varieties Where To Grow Kalanchoe Kalanchoe Succulent Care Propagating Kalanchoe References Growing Kalanchoe succulents can be a great choice for houseplant lovers, since they require little expertise. You don’t need to be the most green-fingered of people to give it a go. There are some excellent varieties to choose from and they are all relatively simple to propagate and grow. “I’m a big fan of kalanchoe,” shares Garden Blogger Michael Perry. “This is a plant that is succulent and has lovely flowers on it. It will also perform outdoors with up to 4 months of flowering. “It really isn’t demanding when it comes to watering and will forgive a lot of mistakes, even when it gets hot and dry.” Overview Botanical Name Kalanchoe Common Name(s) Flaming Katy / Widow’s Thrill Plant Type Succulent Native Area Madagascar & Tropical Africa Hardiness Rating H1A Foliage Varied succulent leaves Flowers Some cultivars bear vibrant flowers in many colours When To Sow Year-Round Flowering Months April, May, June, July, August, September Kalanchoes are beautiful houseplants to enhance the interiors of your home, as Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly explains: “When I’m asked for a recommendation of a houseplant, I will often suggest a Kalanchoe. “They are great fun to grow and you can progress from easier species to greater challenge. “They are also easy to propagate and a great source of potted gifts for friends and family.” In order to understand how to care for any houseplant, it can be useful to delve a little into their native environment and the conditions in which they naturally thrive. Kalanchoe plants are a genus in the Crassulaceae family.1 There are around 150 different species within this genus, most of which are shrubs or herbaceous perennials.2 They are tropical succulent flowering plants that are mostly native to Madagascar and large regions of tropical Africa.3 A number of different plants within the Kalanchoe genus are commonly cultivated as houseplants, or used in succulent or rock gardens in warmer climes. They are popular for their drought tolerance and ability to survive in low-water conditions. They are typically popular houseplants because of their attractive and interesting flowers and foliage, and because they are pretty easy to care for and grow. Kalanchoe Varieties If you are interested in growing Kalanchoe, you might be wondering which species and variety to choose. Here are some of the popular options that you might like to consider: K. blossfeldiana Flaming Katy comes in many different hues. This is the Kalanchoe plant most commonly grown as a houseplant. It is sometimes called ‘Flaming Katy’, or ‘Panda Plant’. This species has large flower heads that come in a range of hues. Naturally, these Kalanchoe will bloom in the spring, though they can be forced to flower at any time throughout the year. K. porphyrocalyx The pretty purple, pendant flowers on this type of Kalanchoe give it its popular name ‘Pearl Bells’. This is another attractive variety that looks rather delicate with its bell flowers and slender leaves. K. manginii This species also has bell-shaped flowers, though somewhat larger ones – it also has fleshy leaves. While most Kalanchoes are relatively unfussy when it comes to humidity levels, this one needs moist air to flower successfully. K. pinnata Kalanchoe pinnata with tiny plantlets forming K. pinnata has fleshy green leaves and forms tiny plantlets around the edges of the parent plant. K. beharensis The best thing about this species is its large, lush and velvety leaves that shimmer a soft silvery green. Where To Grow Kalanchoe Kalanchoe can be grown outdoors in USDA planting zones 10-12 (RHS Hardiness Zones H1B – H3). Temperature & Sunlight Since the UK lies within USDA Zones 6-9, this means that it is not usually possible, except in the most dramatically mild of gardens, to grow these plants outdoors. These plants need plenty of sunlight and warmth, so it is best to position them in a room which is light and bright. However, it is best to avoid placing them on south-facing window sills or in direct sunlight. When in direct sunlight, the leaves can scorch, and the plant may not bloom. The good news is that when it comes to temperature and humidity, Kalanchoe plants are not too fussy. As long as the temperature fluctuations within the room in which it is placed are not too extreme, these plants will thrive at a range of temperatures between around 12-27°C. Soil Requirements As a succulent, kalanchoe needs a growing medium that does not contain too much moisture. It is also important to choose a pot or container that will wick excess water away more easily. A clay pot filled with 50% potting soil and 50% grit will be suitable; make sure there is good drainage at the base of the pot. In terms of the size of the container, what is required will depend on the size of the specimen, but mature single plants are usually grown in pots around 17-18cm in diameter. Alternatively, two or three plants can be clustered together and grown in one pot of around 21-22 inches in diameter. Do not choose a pot overly large for your plant, as this could make problems with waterlogging and excess moisture more likely. Kalanchoe Succulent Care Kalanchoe, like many other succulents, are plants that you can ‘kill with kindness’. The biggest mistake you can make is watering them too much. These are plants that can, to a certain extent, thrive on neglect – so if you are someone who is not that good about remembering to water your houseplants, this could be a good choice for you. These plants should only be watered well every few weeks or so over most of the year – and even less over the winter months. Between waterings, you should let the plant dry out entirely. To check to see whether you need to water, stick your finger into the growing medium – if there is any moisture there at all, hold off a few more days before watering. To prevent problems such as root rot, watering too little is always better than watering too much. Remember, like other succulents, Kalanchoe stores water in its leaves to see it through a drought. The only other care that will be required for best results is fertilisation. You should only ever use an organic plant feed, and never overdo fertilisation – especially when it comes to nitrogen. Like other flowering plants, a fertiliser that is rich in potassium will help boost blooms. Apply a fertiliser with balanced NPK (nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium) a couple of times over the growing season. How To Get Kalanchoe To Flower Some people have issues when trying to get their Kalanchoe to bloom again once the initial flowers have faded. Kalanchoes are photoperiodic. In other words, they bloom in reaction to light and require dark periods to flower repeatedly.4 It may be that they have not received the requisite amount of darkness. Make sure they get 12-14 hours of darkness every night for a couple of months over the winter and they should bloom again the following spring. If you want to ‘force’ your kalanchoe – in other words – get it to bloom for a specific time such as Christmas, for example, you need to ‘trick’ the plant into thinking that it has come through winter and into spring. Minimise watering and make sure the plant has 14 hours of darkness and 10 hours of light each day for a minimum of 6 weeks before the desired bloom time (to send it into dormancy). As soon as you see flower buds, you should move the plant back to a brighter spot and start watering as usual. Remove the spent flowers to make sure the plant does not put energy into sustaining spent blooms, and to encourage new buds to form. In the right conditions, and usually without much effort on your part, having Kalanchoe plants in your home should allow you to enjoy bright blooms for up to 6 months of the year. Propagating Kalanchoe One of the reasons that succulents like Kalanchoe are so popular to grow is that, once you have one, it is incredibly easy to propagate your plant and increase your houseplant stock. If you know someone who has a Kalanchoe plant that you admire, you might even be able to ‘steal’ a little stem segment to propagate a new plant from it for yourself. All you have to do is take a stem segment from a mature plant, let it ‘cure’ or dry out for a few days, then place it into a pot with a suitable growing medium. Hold off watering and it should root within around 4 weeks or so.5 With some varieties, you can simply remove and plant the plantlets that form around the parent plant. References 1. Rhodiola (Rhodiola rosea L.). (n.d.). Science Direct. https://doi.org/10.1016/b978-0-12-812491-8.00052-7 2. Kalanchoe. (n.d.). Plants of the World Online. Retrieved June 27, 2023, from https://powo.science.kew.org/taxon/urn:lsid:ipni.org:names:30060186-2#children 3. Trinklein, D. (2017, January 5). Kalanchoe: The Versatile Houseplant. Integrated Pest Management: University of Missouri. Retrieved March 20, 2023, from https://ipm.missouri.edu/MEG/2017/1/Kalanchoe/ 4. Currey, C., & Erwin, J. (2011). Photoperiodic Flower Induction of Several Kalanchoe Species and Ornamental Characteristics of the Flowering Species. Hortscience, 46(1), 35–39. https://doi.org/10.21273/hortsci.46.1.35 5. Davenport, M. (2007, April 20). Kalanchoe. Home & Garden Information Center. Retrieved March 20, 2023, from https://hgic.clemson.edu/factsheet/kalanchoe/
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How To Grow Banana Plants (And Why You Might Not Get An Edible Crop)
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Habitat & Growing Conditions Choosing A Banana Plant Variety How To Grow Banana Plants Banana Plant Care Banana plants can give any garden, polytunnel, greenhouse or conservatory a tropical feel. When you think about gardening in the UK, banana plants are not likely to be one of the first plants that spring to mind. So you may be surprised to learn that there are several that can be grown successfully in our climate – and though they are tender plants, some can even be left outside all winter long. “Banana plants have always been one of my favourites to grow,” shares Will Purdom, owner of Botanico. Unfortunately, the banana plants that can be grown successfully in the UK won’t usually yield an edible crop of fruits. Musa basjoo Sadly most will not fruit at all, and even when they do, those fruits are usually inedible – so don’t expect to give up buying bananas for your household any time soon! That said, it is sometimes possible to achieve a small yield of edible fruits with certain varieties, as long as you understand what they need and provide the right conditions. And even when you don’t get any bananas from your banana plants, they can still be very worthwhile additions to your garden – they can have great ornamental appeal, and give your garden or undercover growing areas an exotic look and feel. Overview Botanical Name Musa / Ensete Common Name(s) Banana Plant Plant Type Fruit Native Area India, South-East Asia, Northern Australia, Africa Hardiness Rating H2 Foliage Large, deep green leaves When To Plant May, June, July, August Flowering Months July, August When we refer to ‘banana’ plants, we are referring to Musa and Ensete species. Banana plants in the UK are usually grown for their ornamental appeal, they have large, dramatic leaves that can make them stand-outs in a garden scheme. They can also look grand in the corner of a conservatory, or in a greenhouse or polytunnel. Some types also have attractive flowers and will flower successfully in the right conditions once established. A few even have the potential to produce fruits (though, as mentioned above, these are not usually edible, there are a few exceptions that will potentially produce a few edible fruits). Habitat & Growing Conditions When choosing and growing banana plants in Britain there are a number of important considerations. Foliage Or Fruit? First of all, you should think about what you would like from your banana plants. Are you interested in growing them purely for their ornamental foliage? Would you prefer a variety that will flower and fruit? If fruits are produced, are you keen to try for an edible harvest? Growing Conditions Another important consideration is the conditions where you live. There is likely a banana plant that you can grow successfully where you live, but in more exposed and more northerly areas, it is likely that you will only be able to do so undercover or inside. Think about how sheltered a position you will be able to provide, and make sure you understand the climate and microclimatic conditions in your particular garden. Choosing A Banana Plant Variety In order to make a decision about whether a banana plant is right for you, and where you might be able to grow one where you live, it will be helpful to take a look at some common varieties that you could consider. “A houseplant sure to command attention would be Musa x paradisiaca ‘Variegata’ which has some of the most striking variegation I have ever come across,” shares Master Horticulturist Peter Lickorish, when discussing his favourite banana plant varieties. Here are some other types of banana plants that can potentially be grown in the UK: Musa x paradisiaca ‘Rajapuri’ This cultivar is relatively hardy and can cope with light winds. It will grow to an ultimate height of around 2.4m (8 ft) and if it is grown in optimal conditions, is one of the few varieties of banana plants that may produce edible fruits. M. x paradisiaca ‘Orinoco’ The related cultivar ‘Orinoco’ is another banana plant that may produce edible fruits when grown undercover or indoors. It is somewhat taller however, and can reach a height of around 4m (13ft). While it will do best in a warmer environment, it is hardy down to as low as -1°C. M. basjoo If you want to try to grow a banana plant outdoors, then this (Japanese banana) is often said to be the best, hardiest option. It is commonly grown successfully outdoors in milder and more southerly parts of the UK, and has even been known to survive in sheltered gardens further north. It is an attractive and dramatic plant that can grow to an ultimate height of around 3-4.5m (10-14ft). Fruits may form, but these are inedible and usually less than 5cm or so long. M. lasiocarpa Known as ‘Chinese yellow banana’, this type of banana plant can also produce inedible fruits, though this is rare in the UK. It is more typical for flowers to form, but fruits rarely set. The plant can be very attractive, however, with lush green foliage; it will typically grow to around 1.5m (5ft) in height. M. acuminata ‘Zebrina’ This is a relatively low-growing cultivar that is another good choice if you are growing in containers, but the main reason to choose this type is for its highly decorative leaves, which are striped with red. M. acuminata ‘Dwarf Cavendish’ If you are growing indoors year-round, or only have a very small garden, this could be a good option. This cultivar grows to only 2-3m, and yet still gives a dramatic impact with its red-striped leaves. Ensete ventricosum ‘Maurelii’ One final option, of the Ensete variety, is the Abyssinian banana. Though sensitive and tender, this is increasing in popularity as a summer bedding plant. It is ideal for tropical garden schemes, with its huge paddle-like reddish bronze and green leaves, which emerge from its thick trunk. In autumn, after being left out in summer, these are cut down and taken indoors until late spring, when they can be re-bedded and should quickly re-grow. How To Grow Banana Plants As mentioned above, where you live and which variety you choose will dictate where you can grow banana plants and where these should be placed. If you are in a more southern and sheltered location, hardier banana species (such as Musa basjoo, mentioned above) can find a permanent home in a suitable growing area in your garden. It is essential that the spot you choose is sheltered from strong winds that could shred the leaves – and it is also important to choose a site that does not become a frost pocket over the winter months. The soil or growing medium into which the banana plant is planted should be free-draining and well-drained, with good quantities of organic matter. When growing even the hardiest banana plants outdoors, it is usually essential to provide winter protection. Container Growing For most gardeners, however, and most types of banana plant, it is best to grow them in containers. Containers can be placed outdoors, in a polytunnel or greenhouse, or in a conservatory or another sunny and warm room inside your home. It is sometimes possible to place containers outside during the summer before bringing them indoors or under cover throughout the colder months. Planting Banana plants are best planted into containers or a suitable outside spot in late spring. Containers should be filled with a loam-based potting mix with extra grit to improve drainage (add around 30% grit by volume). Usually, Musa species are propagated by offsets or suckers, which are detached from the parent and placed into their own individual pots, though many gardeners will choose to purchase a larger banana plant for more immediate impact. The planting hole or container should be just large enough to take them. Choosing Suitable Containers Do not be tempted to give a banana plant a larger container than it needs, as this can create problems with waterlogging. Instead, pot on into larger pots in spring every year or two, as the plant grows. Increase pot size by around 5cm at a time to begin with, then, once the plant is vigorous and well established, increase the container by around 10cm each time. Banana Plant Care Sunlight & Temperatures Banana plants need plenty of warmth and sun, wherever and however they are grown. “If you live in one of the warmer areas of the UK, you may find your outdoor banana plant getting impressively large – even too large,” adds Peter. “If so, you can cut it down to around 60cm with a sharp pruning saw in late spring or early summer.” In order to thrive (and potentially produce fruit in the case of some cultivars), they will need temperatures above 15°C for 9-15 months. Ideal temperatures however, are around 25-29°C. After this, a further 2-4 months will be needed for the fruit to ripen. Of course, these conditions cannot be met outdoors in the UK. Soil Requirements Though banana plants need a free-draining soil or growing medium, they also need to be watered well over the spring and summer months. Watering should be reduced in autumn, and you should only water when containers dry out during the winter months. Feeding Fertility should also be considered. Feed banana plants in the ground or containers with a general-purpose organic liquid plant feed every couple of weeks over the spring and summer. “Feeding with a high-potassium fertiliser can improve cold-hardiness in a range of tender plants, but this is only one of many tools needed to get them through the winter,” Peter says. If you wish to get fruits, feed with a potassium-rich feed (such as comfrey tea, for example) when flowers and fruits begin to form. Overwintering Though some cultivars can be grown outdoors, they will need some protection. It is best to wrap M. basjoo or other hardy banana plants if you plan on keeping them outdoors over the winter. “Large leaves can be cut off and dry straw can be packed around the stem, which can then be wrapped in hessian or horticultural fleece,” shares Peter. Tender banana plants should be brought indoors when temperatures drop below 14°C, as Peter explains further: “This can be challenging with their large size, so you can cut off the foliage and place them in a dormant state somewhere dark and frost-free.”
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The Fascinating Fern Types Grown By Expert Nurseries And Garden Designers
IN THIS GUIDE Great For Shade Expert Chosen Varieties Suited For Wet And Boggy Conditions 1) Lady Fern (Athyrium filix-femina) 2) Ostrich Fern (Matteuccia struthiopteris) 3) Royal Fern (Osmunda regalis) 4) Sensitive Fern (Onoclea sensibilis) Suited For Damp Shade 5) Aleutian Maidenhair Fern (Adiantium aleuticum) 6) Golden Shield Fern (Dryopteris affinis) 7) Broad Buckler Fern (Dryopteris dilatata) 8) Male Fern / Basket Fern (Dryopteris filis-mas) 9) Evergreen Maidenhair (Adiantum venustum) 10) Hart’s Tongue Fern (Asplenium scolopendrium) 11) Common Spleenwort (Asplenium trichomanes) 12) Soft Shield Fern (Polystichum setiferum) 13) Tree Fern (Dickinsonia antarctica) 14) Golden Tree Fern (Dicksonia fibrosa) 15) Table Mountain Fern (Blechnum tabulare) Suited For Dry Shade 16) Eared Lady Fern (Athyrium otophorum ‘Okanum’) 17) Hard Fern (Blechnum spicant) 18) Common Polypody Fern (Polypodium vulgare) 19) Crested Golden Shield Fern (Dryopteris affinis ‘Cristata’) 20) Autumn Fern (Dryopteris erythrosora) Advice For Choosing Ferns Uses In Forest Gardening References Ferns are fantastic plants that can find a place as valuable additions in many British gardens. Ferns are vascular plants that reproduce via spores – they have no seeds or flowers. Botanically fascinating, ferns first appeared in the fossil record around 360 million years ago.1 Many of the current families in this group of plants emerged around 145 million years ago.2 “As I’ve gotten older, I’ve started to really love my foliage plants,” shares Horticulturist and Author Val Bourne. “Ferns give me great pleasure and are probably my favourite plants in the garden at the moment.” “Ferns come in all shapes and sizes and provide a really tropical feel to your garden,” says Kylie Stocks, Horticulturist at Verdigris Ferns. Great For Shade One of the things that makes them so valuable as a garden plant for UK growers is that they are amongst the best plants for shade. Shade in a garden can sometimes be a challenge – whether it is a north-facing bed, or an area beneath mature trees. Create a fernery or just add a fern or two in a suitable spot… Ferns can often be fabulous plants to choose for such locations – allowing you to make the most of more tricky garden areas. “I love the calm atmosphere that ferns create,” says Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly. “They are great for damp, shady areas but there are also species for dry shade. Let the conditions dictate your selection. Consider also variations in height and what other shade lovers you can use alongside.” When choosing ferns for a shady site, there are different types of shade, but there are ferns suited to all those different types. Ferns can be found which can cope with a wide range of different conditions and environmental factors. Expert Chosen Varieties We asked three of our expert fern growers to share their favourite varieties with us. “I love growing ferns as they are such a diverse group of plants,” says Mark Taylor, owner of the award-winning plant nursery Alchemy Ferns. “They can be either evergreen or deciduous and can range from ground cover to cover 6-7ft in height. There are also those that can cope with dryer conditions and some that can be in the sun. “As well as the more commonly known ferns that prefer damp or wet conditions, some ferns are also as happy in a container. Then, there are the tree ferns, that add that extra bit of height and glamour to a garden. Cyathea brownii “My favourite type of fern would be a tree fern as they are tall, elegant, architectural, eye-catching plants that make a real statement in the garden. “All in all, there is a fern for every aspect.” Another lover of the tree fern, Kylie Stocks is a Horticulturist at a specialist plant nursery, Verdigris Ferns, based in Australia. “I love the rainforest and the ability to replicate this environment in our own garden is very satisfying and provides a serene working environment,” says Kylie, when discussing why she loves to grow ferns. “I am very partial to tree ferns and there are quite a few different varieties available here in Australia. “They are so tall and majestic and provide a beautiful lacy foliage that really makes a statement. Blechnum brasiliense “I also love the Blechnum genus due to the vibrant red, pink, and bronze that you often see in new foliage.” For Neil Timm, owner of The Fern Nursery in Lincolnshire, ferns offer something special compared to other hardy plants. “I love the wonderful foliage effects of ferns,” he says. “Their great variation in shape, size and foliage, and the rich associations they have with mountains, forests and wilderness in general, is another reason I love growing them.” “Polystichum setiferum is my favourite fern to grow,” says Neil. Polystichum setiferum “It has everything you could possibly want in a garden plant. A compact, non-spreading habit with a strong bold shape and very fine foliage. “It can also withstand and do well in a wide range of soils, situations, and sun. It is a native, and perhaps the most evergreen of our larger native ferns.” So, has that got you in the mood for growing ferns? In the rest of this article, we explore twenty of the best types of ferns to grow in the UK. Suited For Wet And Boggy Conditions First of all, let’s take a look at some of the best ferns for very wet and boggy conditions: 1) Lady Fern (Athyrium filix-femina) Lady fern is a naturalizing wetland plant. It prefers a moist site with moderately high atmospheric humidity. Especially shade-tolerant, these ferns are a vigorous deciduous plant that form clumps of lacy, bi-pinnate fronds. They prefer acidic soil (4.5 – 6.5 pH) but can tolerate more alkaline sites when plenty of leaf mould is added. These ferns are common throughout moist, sheltered woodlands in northern temperate zones. 2) Ostrich Fern (Matteuccia struthiopteris) Ostrich ferns prefer a pH between 5 and 6.5. They can cope well in wet sites, even in heavy clay soils. These plants are tolerant of shade and strongly dislike full sun. They make good ground cover when placed at a spacing of around 60cm. A highly ornamental plant, it has feathery fronds and establishes quickly. 3) Royal Fern (Osmunda regalis) Royal fern prefers swampy or moist soil, and like the above, prefers acidic soil conditions. Unlike the above, however, royal ferns can also grow in full sun as long as there is no shortage of moisture in the soil. This is a large fern that forms clumps of fronds up to 2.5m in height. The fronds bear rusty brown spore-bearing pinnae at the tips, and the foliage turns a pleasing reddish-brown shade in autumn. 4) Sensitive Fern (Onoclea sensibilis) Like the above, Sensitive fern is good for cool, moist areas. It can also work well in boggy sites or play a role in pond-side planting schemes. It is another deciduous fern that hears broad, light green, deeply lobed, pinnate fronds up to 60cm in length. One thing to note, however, is that this fern may become invasive in smaller gardens. Suited For Damp Shade All of the ferns above are also suitable for a site that is not as wet, but is still rather damp. In addition to considering the ferns already mentioned above, however, you could also consider many other options. Here are some more options that are amongst the best ferns for damp shade: 5) Aleutian Maidenhair Fern (Adiantium aleuticum) This North American native is a deciduous or semi-evergreen fern with fronds around 50cm in length. The stalks are black, and adorned with green pedate divided fronds with oblong segments. Though hardy, they are sometimes also grown as houseplants. Naturally, they are found in moist soil near streams, often in rock crevices. 6) Golden Shield Fern (Dryopteris affinis) Characterised by their golden-green fronds, which grow up to 1.2m in length, Golden Shield Fern is a great choice for shade or partial shade. It is a hardy and adaptable plant that can thrive in quite a wide range of soils and settings. As the plants age, the golden-green colouration grows to a rich green, with golden scales on the stems. 7) Broad Buckler Fern (Dryopteris dilatata) Robust and resilient, this is another fern that can thrive in a range of different settings. It is a semi-evergreen plant that forms clumps of erect or arching fronds that are dark green and strongly serrated. This fern prefers moist, cool, lightly shaded sites but will grow in full sun as long as enough moisture is available. Note: It can also cope with dry shade if watered well until established and mulched well. 8) Male Fern / Basket Fern (Dryopteris filis-mas) This is another sturdy deciduous fern. This one forms clumps of lance-shaped, bipinnatifid fronds that can reach up to 1.2m in height. It is similarly easy and has similar requirements to the broad buckler fern mentioned above. 9) Evergreen Maidenhair (Adiantum venustum) Evergreen (or almost evergreen) in mild areas, this fern forms a mat to a height of around 25cm in height. So it can be a great choice for creating ground cover. Its ovate fronds are made up of many fan-shaped segments. Often, these turn an attractive rusty-reddish-brown in autumn and winter. This is another fern that can, with the right approach, also be grown as a houseplant. 10) Hart’s Tongue Fern (Asplenium scolopendrium) This evergreen fern forms a rosette of 30-75cm arching fronds in a deep, rich green. Spores are born in transverse stripes below the fronds. This option will tend to grow well in any humus-rich, moist but well-drained soil. It can also be somewhat tolerant to dry shade but only when watered well until establishment and mulched well. 11) Common Spleenwort (Asplenium trichomanes) This compact, low lying fern can be planted within a rock garden or dry wall. It has pinnate, delicate fronds and blackish stems. It will do best where there is a humus-rich soil and plenty of moisture, and prefers alkaline or neutral conditions. Avoid planting it where it will be exposed to bright mid-day sun. 12) Soft Shield Fern (Polystichum setiferum) This is a tufted evergreen fern that grows rosettes of lance-shaped green fronds with prominent rusty brown scales. It can reach around 1.2m in height. It likes a moist and humus-rich soil, but crowns should be protected from excessive wet in winter. 13) Tree Fern (Dickinsonia antarctica) If you are looking for a fern that will have a bigger and more dramatic impact, you may like to consider a tree fern. Dickinsonia antarctica is the most common tree fern. These are perennial evergreens, with stout brown trunks clothed in fibrous roots, with a large fan of pinnate fronds at the top. These grow slowly to an eventual height of up to 4m. They are evergreen, but may be deciduous in colder climate zones. They like a moist but well-drained fertile soil, rich in organic matter, but the crown should be protected from excessive water in winter. Winter protection will be required in all but the mildest of areas. 14) Golden Tree Fern (Dicksonia fibrosa) This is another tree fern that could be considered for some UK gardens. It can grow up to 6m tall, with a brown trunk-like rhizome and a fan of attractive fronds at the top. Again, these can be grown outdoors without winter protection only in the mildest regions. 15) Table Mountain Fern (Blechnum tabulare) While not a true tree fern, this option will eventually develop a trunk. This is another option that can be used to give a dramatic and tropical look in a shady and moist but free-drained area of your garden. Suited For Dry Shade Finally, let’s take a look at some more ferns that are amongst the best ferns for dry shade in the UK. All of the Dryopteris species mentioned above can also cope with dry shade as well as damp shade. And here are some more options to consider: 16) Eared Lady Fern (Athyrium otophorum ‘Okanum’) This fern is native to East Asia. It forms rosettes of arching, broadly ovate, bipinnate fronds that start out pale green in spring then turn grey-green later. Stalks and the main veins have a purplish hue. It can grow best in moist conditions but can tolerate a much drier spot in full or dappled shade. 17) Hard Fern (Blechnum spicant) This neat and tufted evergreen fern is another that can cope in dry shade, though it also likes moist shaded sites. It forms spreading tufts of narrow, dark green fronds with linear pinnae. This fern prefers acidic or neutral soil. 18) Common Polypody Fern (Polypodium vulgare) While usually found in damp shady spots, it can also survive quite well in relatively dry conditions. It can be great for shade below or on walls, or beneath trees. It has leathery, ladder-like fronds with knobbly spots on the undersides that are the spores. 19) Crested Golden Shield Fern (Dryopteris affinis ‘Cristata’) Like the other Dryopteris on this list, this fern can cope with a range of different conditions. This particular cultivar is one that can be chosen for dry shade. It has attractive fronds that open golden-green and turn deeper green as they mature. 20) Autumn Fern (Dryopteris erythrosora) Another adaptable, relatively low-maintenance fern, this option is prized for its brilliant hues. New fronds in spring have a striking reddish-orange colour. And these contrast beautifully with dark green mature fronds. These fade to green as the season progresses, then draw attention in autumn with bright red stores on their undersides. See more ferns for dry shade in this guide. This list is by no means exhaustive and there are many different ferns to discover, but the twenty options above are certainly amongst the best to grow in the UK. Advice For Choosing Ferns The most important thing to consider when choosing ferns for your garden are the environmental conditions. You may be tempted to choose ferns with reference first to the appearance of their foliage, and how they will look in your garden scheme. But first and foremost, it is important to make sure that you refer to the site itself, and choose the right plants for the right places. Typically, ferns in general are considered to be specialists in marginal habitats. This means that they can provide solutions to a number of planting problems or conundrums in your garden. Ferns can help vegetate shaded, waterlogged and boggy areas where many other plants will not thrive. They can be useful in deep, damp shade where they can add interest with their varied foliage, and be used in a traditional Victorian fernery, or in a mixed planting scheme alongside other plants for damp shade. Ferns can also be useful in tricky areas of dry shade which can also be challenging for gardeners. Uses In Forest Gardening Another interesting thing to consider is the role ferns can play in a forest or woodland garden. If you are not familiar with the concept of forest gardening, this is an ecologically sensitive and sustainable way to grow food and other resources. A forest garden is a garden that mimics a natural forest, but replaces typical plants with species that are of benefit to those who tend it, and to the system as a whole. Forest gardens include a wide range of trees, shrubs, herbaceous perennials, roots, ground cover plants and climbers. Ferns can be useful as part of an overall planting scheme. References 1. Plant Evolution II: Ferns. (n.d.). SUNY Cortland. Retrieved March 27, 2023, from https://cortland.edu/waldbauer-trail/11-plant%20evolution-II.html 2. Jurassic Period. (2021, May 3). National Geographic. Retrieved March 27, 2023, from https://www.nationalgeographic.com/science/article/jurassic
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These Are The Conditions You Need To Grow Snapdragons Say Horticulturists
IN THIS GUIDE Overview How To Grow Snapdragons Soil Sunlight Planting Water Propagating Common Problems Snapdragon Types References Antirrhinum, commonly known as ‘snapdragon’, is often thought of as an old-fashioned, country cottage plant, conjuring up memories of running through your grandparent’s garden as a child. But these cheery, vibrant annual plants are making a keen comeback. Snapdragons are easy to grow, bursting with colour, wonderfully fragrant and beloved by bees and other vital pollinators. Blooming from April to June and August to October, these powerful plants come in a vast array of colours and various heights, and can really bring a dynamic twist to your garden. Perfect for beds and borders, they also thrive in containers – making them perfect for any garden, regardless of the style or size. Overview Botanical Name Antirrhinum majus Common Name(s) Snapdragon Plant Type Perennial / Annual Flower Native Area Europe, North America, North Africa Hardiness Rating H3 Foliage Simple leaves Flowers Tubular, two-lipped flowers, solitary or in terminal racemes Flowering Months April, May, June, August, September When To Prune May, June, July, August, September Snapdragons get their name thanks to their snout-shaped flowers which resemble the jaw of a dragon – the “dragon’s mouth” even opens and closes when squeezed laterally and makes a slight snapping sound. The plants are said to represent both deception and graciousness.1 Whether all that is true remains to be seen, but an absolute fact is that they are stunning plants that are guaranteed to brighten up your garden. Snapdragons fall into three different categories which are determined by their height and are as follows: Dwarf – measuring from 15-35cm in height Intermediate – measuring from 35-75cm in height Tall – measuring from 75-120cm in height The variety in sizes makes this a multi-purpose plant well suited to bringing texture and structure to your garden. They’re also sure to complement other flowers. How To Grow Snapdragons Snapdragons are undemanding and easy to grow, making them perfect for novice gardeners or those of us with a busy schedule. They are also a wonderful and rewarding plant to encourage children to learn about gardening. I actually grew some from seed earlier this year. These were sown in my indoor propagator around late February, before being planted out in May. You can see that I managed to achieve some pretty spectacular flowers, though I did need to stake them with bamboo canes given we live in a really windy area! At first I was worried I had planted them outside a little too early, as the foliage of the seedling showed signs of stress, but the plant slowly grew to life as summer approached and the weather got gradually warmer. The pollinators loved them, and given that they were so easy to grow, I will definitely be growing even more this coming year. “I grow dwarf Antirrhinums in my kitchen garden to enjoy as cut flowers but also to attract pollinators,” shares Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly. “The shorter cultivars mean that I don’t have to worry about them collapsing over later in the summer.” Many varieties will repeat bloom, but all of them tend to do best in the cooler months of spring and autumn. If you are keen to introduce snapdragons into your garden then but aren’t sure where to begin, we have put together a complete guide to growing and caring for these spectacular plants. Soil Snapdragons are not too fussy, but they do prefer moist, well-drained soil. Being short-lived plants, they aren’t heavy feeders but, they will appreciate it if you add a layer of organic matter to keep them healthy and happy. Sunlight If you want to get the most out of your snapdragons, then plant them in full sun to partial shade. Opting for partial shade and keeping them well watered will give them more of a chance to make it through summer and will often bloom again in autumn. Planting You can sow snapdragon seeds in early spring or autumn. When large enough to handle you can transfer the seeds into pots or containers and place in a sheltered spot. If you are planting them in beds or borders, then be sure to do so after the threat of frost. Water Snapdragons are thirsty plants, so make sure you provide them with adequate water. Once established, they require an inch of water a week if there has been no rain – but be sure not to over-water. You should also avoid overhead watering and instead aim for the crown. Propagating With their prolific flowering and beautiful colours, you will likely want to introduce these plants into other parts of your garden or share them with family or friends. You can divide snapdragon plant roots by digging the plant up at the end of summer. Divide the root mass into as many pieces as you desire and then plant each division into a large container. You will need to keep the container indoors throughout winter and then plant into the garden the following spring. It is worth mentioning however that these plants establish quickly, so if you don’t have luck with propagation it is easy to replace them with fresh new snapdragons. Common Problems Snapdragons generally have few problems with pests, and although diseases are uncommon, the main things to watch out for are powdery and downy mildew, and Botrytis blight. There are many options for getting rid of powdery and downy mildew. Botrytis blight is a little trickier, but first and foremost be sure to disinfect pruners between cuts to prevent the spread of this disease. It’s then advisable to destroy infected plant material; this will also prevent it from spreading to nearby plants. Snapdragon Types There are dozens of varieties of snapdragons, blooming in gorgeous colours of red, pink, orange, yellow, purple and white, as well as in bicolours, and both pastel shades to the brightest of hues. With so many varieties to choose from, it can be hard to know where to start so we have picked out some of our favourites to help get you started. Antirrhinum majus ‘Rocket’ This lofty snapdragon grows to a height of around 90cm and comes in a variety of colours. They have sturdy stems with florets that are closely set and are extremely tolerant of heat. With eight colours to choose from they are a versatile option that are sure to bring a burst of colour to your garden. A. majus ‘Black Prince’ Contrary to their name, black prince snapdragons actually have dark purple leaves and beautiful deep red flowers. Growing up to 45cm in height, this variety enjoys warmer weather and will thrive in a spot where it can enjoy full sun. A. majus ‘Royal Bride’ This traditional variety is one you will commonly see in the gardens of country cottages. It blooms in pure “bride” white with a gorgeous dash of cream near its stem. Royal bride snapdragons can reach heights of 90cm and have a glorious aroma. Plant near paths or house entrances to enjoy their delicious scent. A. majus ‘Tahiti’ This variety grows to a height of around 20cm and is among the tallest in the dwarf snapdragon category. They are the ideal plant for garden bedding. They don’t come in as many colours as many other types, but they make up for it with the option of bi-colour flowers. They can be sown at almost any time of year and are perfect for rockeries, borders and containers. A. majus ‘Madame Butterfly’ This showy specimen is a delightful cross between rocket and bright butterfly snapdragons. Their flowers aren’t as open-faced as the butterflies but more so than the rocket. The madame butterfly snapdragons have fluffy, azalea-shaped blooms and come in rich colours of red, orange, pink, yellow, white, purple and lavender. Chandelier This romantic variety of snapdragon is more of a trailing plant, with a bush-like quality. Their flowers are a little smaller than other types, and if placed in a hanging basket, their blooms and leaves will cascade down with beautiful and dramatic effect. References 1. Snapdragon Flower Meaning. (2017, March 21). Flower Meanings. Retrieved April 11, 2023, from https://www.flowermeaning.com/snapdragon-flower-meaning/
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It Can Be 'A Demanding Houseplant' - How To Grow A Fiddle-Leaf Fig Tree
IN THIS GUIDE Overview How To Grow A Fiddle-Leaf Fig Tree Ongoing Care Common Problems References The name ‘Fiddle-Leaf Fig’ rolls off the tongue nicely, and this is definitely a plant to get yourself acquainted with. Hailing from Central & Western Africa, this fig variety has since been cultivated and domesticated, guaranteeing its reputation as a popular staple in our gardens and homes.1 While the plant is definitely in vogue, you should know that some people consider it to be quite finickity. Getting it firmly established in satisfactory conditions can take some work, and if you grow it outdoors, you’ll have to bring it indoors over winter. With that in mind, though, the rewards offered by getting a fiddle-leaf fig properly settled far outweigh the work involved. Overview Botanical Name Ficus lyrata Common Name(s) Fiddle Leaf Fig Tree Plant Type Houseplant Native Area Tropical Africa Hardiness Rating H1B Foliage Large, fiddle-shaped leaves When To Sow June, July, August When To Prune February, March Fiddle-leaf fig is the common name for Ficus lyrata, a flowering plant in the Moraceae family, otherwise known as figs and mulberries.2 Unfortunately, however, this member of the family doesn’t put forth fruit when grown indoors, and the fruits it does put forth outdoors are inedible. For those hoping for a tasty bounty from your fruit tree, we recommend looking elsewhere. Out in nature, this plant has a fearsome reputation. As an epiphyte, the fiddle-leaf fig deposits its seeds on top of other trees and then grows downward toward the ground.3 While this may sound innocent, the branches wind their way around the host tree, gradually strangling it and starving it of resources. “As a houseplant, this is a great way to bring a piece of the West African rainforest into your living room,” shares Horticulturist Colin Skelly. “In a pot, you are keeping it as a seedling compared to its growth habit in its native range.” When grown as a houseplant these tendencies are unlikely to reveal themselves, so you’ve got nothing to worry about. How To Grow A Fiddle-Leaf Fig Tree The Fiddle Leaf Fig can be relatively demanding compared to other houseplants, but we wholeheartedly recommend it. Soil Requirements This plant requires well-aerated soil that promotes fast drainage. It’s not fussy in terms of growing medium – sand, clay, chalk, and loam are all fine – but you must ensure that the roots do not become saturated. It’s not fussy with acidity, either: acid, alkali, or neutral soils will all work. You can also get specially-formulated fiddle-leaf fig nutrient mix to ensure the soil remains suitably nutritious for your new green friend. Hardiness This plant has a hardiness rating of H1B, indicating that it can be grown outside in summer (doing best in temperatures of 10-15°C or above). Given the plant’s African origins, this makes sense. The fiddle-leaf fig evolved in an area of high temperature and frequent sunshine, meaning that a move to often-soggy British climes can be a bit of a shock to the system. It’s still possible to grow a fiddle-leaf fig in your garden, however – you just need to take the appropriate actions by moving it indoors over the colder months. Container Growing Given that you’ll need to move your plant around a lot, it makes sense to grow it in a container. This plant enjoys being outdoors – it likes the fresh air, the humidity and the sunlight. When growing your fiddle-leaf fig outdoors, look for a sheltered west- or south-facing spot in direct sunlight, if possible. Be vigilant for leaf burn, which can be caused by particularly intense periods of sunshine. Because many leaves grow out of a single bud, it can take a while for lost leaves to be replenished. Ongoing Care Aside from ensuring the environment is suitable for your fiddle-leaf fig, it’s actually quite easygoing. It’ll need a very light pruning once in a while, and there are a few potential pests to be aware of – beyond that, it’s plain sailing. Pruning The fiddle-leaf fig tree is a proud member of RHS’ pruning group 1; thus requiring “little to no pruning”.4 This bodes well for the casual gardeners amongst us, and goes some way to offset the tree’s demanding environmental needs. Give your plant a light pruning in late winter or early spring. All you’re looking to do is remove diseased or damaged shoots and any that are crossing each other or growing in unwanted directions. After you’ve done that, mulch and feed the soil to give your plant a nutrient boost. Winter Care While they can acclimatise partly to cold, freezing temperatures can cause shock and loss of foliage. While fiddle-leaf figs are fussy when being moved, they’ll respond well to a move to a more suitable environment. And in winter, without being moved indoors they will almost certainly die off in outdoor conditions in the UK. By growing yours in a pot it can be moved easily when the time feels right, but there are also a few steps you can take to ease the transition – Move to a shady spot outdoors for a couple of weeks to get your plant used to lower light conditions. Use a grow light to simulate sunlight and help your fiddle-leaf fig acclimatise to the dark depths of winter. Go steady on the watering: check the top two inches of soil with your finger and only water when these are dry. Keep your plant away from radiators, heaters, or any other sources of hot air, as this can further disrupt their already-sensitive humidity requirements. Any and all of these steps should help out with any transition from the summer outdoors to overwintering indoors. Common Problems Few plants are free of risk from opportunistic pests, and the fiddle-leaf fig tree is no different. Here are the main offenders: Glasshouse Red Spider Mite These minuscule nuisances feed on the sap in plant leaves, which can lead to mottled leaves and even leaf loss in severe cases. They’re especially prevalent in summer and, given that your fiddle-leaf fig will be spending its summers outdoors, you need to be vigilant. If you catch an infestation early, you’ve got a better chance of controlling it. You can deliberately introduce predatory insects to eat the red spider mites, or you can use solutions such as neem oil or insecticidal soap. Thrips Thrips are another small sap-sucking insect that can damage the leaves of your prized fiddle-leaf fig. If you notice discolouration on your leaves, see whether you can find any thrips lurking under the leaves. Methods of control are similar: predatory mites or a variety of pesticides. Woolly aphids You can also hang sticky fly-catching sheets if your plant is indoors, as this will attract the thrips away. Don’t do this outside, however, as you’ll likely catch and kill many innocent flying creatures. Mealybugs Mealybugs also like to eat sap, and in exchange for this tasty sustenance, they leave a sticky trail on your leaves which can give rise to mould. Look for fluffy wax, small white woodlouse-y bugs, or black mould – all indicate visiting mealybugs. And when you have visitors, your choices are pesticides, tolerating small amounts of damage, or, sadly, destroying heavily infested plants. A fiddle-leaf fig tree is a stylish addition to any home or garden – and if you’re up for a challenge, you could soon be the proud owner of a thriving specimen. References 1. Datiles, M. J., & Acevedo-Rodrígue, P. (2014). Ficus lyrata (fiddle-leaf fig). CABI Compendium. https://doi.org/10.1079/cabicompendium.24125 2. Ficus lyrata. (n.d.). Global Plants – JSTOR. Retrieved March 15, 2023, from https://plants.jstor.org/stable/10.5555/al.ap.flora.fwta3535 3. Ficus lyrata. (n.d.-b). North Carolina Extension Gardener Plant Toolbox. Retrieved March 15, 2023, from https://plants.ces.ncsu.edu/plants/ficus-lyrata/ 4. Shrubs and trees: light pruning. (n.d.-b). Royal Horticultural Society. Retrieved March 15, 2023, from https://www.rhs.org.uk/plants/types/trees/trees-shrubs-light-pruning
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Myosotis ‘Forget-Me-Nots’: Perfectly Suited To Traditional, Modern And Formal Settings
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Myosotis Varieties Plant Care Common Problems References If there is one thing forget-me-nots are not, it’s forgettable. This sweet little spring plant is famous for the adorable, five-petalled flower that burst from its stems from May right and right through October. Usually pale blue and with striking yellow centres, these flowers are easy to remember. Forget-me-nots, or Myosotis, are traditionally seen in country gardens; however, their understated elegance means they are perfectly suited to traditional, modern, formal and informal settings. This plant is perfect for borders or the edges of paths and will complement other spring-blooming flowers, making it a charming addition to any garden. Overview Botanical Name Myosotis Common Name(s) Forget-me-not Plant Type Perennial / Annual Flower Native Area Europe Hardiness Rating H6 Foliage Hairy perennial Flowers Blue, yellow or white, delicate 5 lobed flowers When To Sow May, June, September Flowering Months May, June, July, August, September The Myosotis genus consists of 153 species and, while they are famously pale blue, they can also come in many other colours including shades of pink, orange and white.1 Forget-me-nots are steeped in symbolism and, in almost every country where they are found, it seems there is a myth or a legend involving them. Often used in wedding bouquets, forget-me-nots are said to symbolise true love and were given as a gift with the hope that the recipient would never forget the giver. They are also said to represent long-lasting connection which can include not only the bond that exists between lovers, but also between friends or family. Myosotis Varieties There are hundreds of species of forget-me-nots, with many variations of colour, size and other characteristics that set them apart. Here are some of our favourite forget-me-nots to help you find the best ones to grow in your garden. Wood Forget-Me-Not Botanical Name: M. sylvatica This variety of forget-me-not is a short-lived herbaceous perennial plant that produces gorgeous blue, pink or white flowers with striking yellow or white centres which bloom from mid-spring to mid-summer. Wood forget-me-nots are easy to grow and prefer moist, well-drained, organically rich soil in full sun or partial shade. Growing from 5-12 inches, they are well-loved by butterflies, bumblebees and other helpful pollinators. Thanks to their incredibly low maintenance nature, this versatile little plant is perfect for rock gardens, borders, banks and underplanting shrubs. Field Forget-Me-Not Botanical Name: M. arvensis The field forget-me-not is generally biennial or annual and, sometimes, a perennial herb. This particularly popular plant produces blue, funnel-shaped, five-petalled flowers and can grow to a height of 4-16 inches. The seeds of this variety can stay dormant for up to thirty years until they deem it a suitable time to sprout and germinate when conditions are favourable. This plant is pollinated by small flies but it can also self-pollinate if necessary to ensure seed production. Field forget-me-nots are best grown in full sun or part shade and in moist, well-drained, organically rich soil. This low-maintenance plant will perform superbly in borders and beds, slopes and banks, rock gardens, underplanting shrubs and roses as well as in containers. Water Forget-Me-Not Botanical Name: M. scorpioides This erect herbaceous perennial produces gorgeous sprays of sky-blue flowers with tiny yellow centres which bloom from early to late summer. Typically growing to a height of 6-10 inches, the water forget-me-not loves to sprawl across the ground, creating a magical flower carpet. This beauty is easily grown in full sun or partial shade and, while it prefers wet to moist conditions, it can adapt to ordinary soil providing it has the moisture it needs and the soil contains clay-loam. Water forget-me-nots are ideal for water gardens and wet areas and are a stunning addition when planted around streams, bogs, banks and ponds. Changing Forget-Me-Not Botanical Name: M. discolor This variety gets its name thanks to the changing shades of colour of its flowers. Blooming from May to September, the petals first appear cream or pale yellow and then gradually turn to pink, violet or blue. The changing forget-me-not is a perennial or annual growing herb which can grow to a height of between 4-20 inches and produces leaves in a variety of shapes that are coated with small, soft, straight hairs. Like the other forget-me-nots on this list, they are easy to grow, prefer full sun or partial shade and will perform best in open, grassy areas. Strict Forget-Me-Not Botanical Name: M. stricta Last but not least, the strict forget-me-not is perhaps the most familiar type and is the variety that truly symbolises love and friendship. It is also the earliest blooming Myosotis in the entire family, producing delicate blue flowers from May to June. Plants in this variety typically grow to a height of between 2-8 inches and are perfect for attracting useful pollinators into your garden. They prefer full sun to light shade, in mesic to dry conditions, preferring loamy or sandy soil. This type of Myosotis is perfect for rocky outcrops, banks of streams, and dry areas where other plants may not so easily thrive. They are also known to reseed themselves aggressively. Plant Care Forget-me-nots are incredibly low maintenance and will pretty much take care of themselves. That said if you would rather they didn’t just spread freely around your garden you can pull up plants before they seed to prevent them from spreading too extensively. Now that you’ve decided that your garden is crying out for unforgettable, forget-me-nots you might be wondering where to start. Growing While some types of Myosotis may differ slightly, generally most prefer to grow in sunny or slightly shady spots, in moist, well-drained soil. Some varieties prefer a little more shade, and when paired with other shade-loving plants, they can make for an enchanting display. Make sure you research your chosen type before planting to ensure you place it somewhere it can thrive. That said, forget-me-nots are very adaptable and versatile and will do well in most conditions. Propagation Myosotis will readily, and sometimes aggressively, self-seed. “Myosotis will self-seed in the areas that they like best,” says Colin Skelly, a Master Horticulturist. “I edit the seedlings in my garden to keep them where I want them. I love them in combination with early spring bulbs and they contrast beautifully with the reds and yellows of daffodils and tulips.” You can either allow them to do their thing and spread where they wish, or if you want to share the love, or introduce them to another part of the garden, you can lift new seedlings and give them as a gift or plant them in a new area. Common Problems Thankfully there are no pests that are particularly attracted to forget-me-nots. The only problem you are likely to face is powdery or downy mildew after flowering. These fungal diseases are recognisable by the white, powdery patches that appear on upper and lower leaf surfaces. Garden fungicidial treatments are readily available for affected plants. As you can see, forget-me-nots are so easy to include in your garden and, being so low maintenance, are perfect for beginners as well as gardeners with busy schedules. References 1. Myosotis. (n.d.). Plants of the World Online | Kew Science. Retrieved June 5, 2023, from https://powo.science.kew.org/taxon/urn:lsid:ipni.org:names:30010296-2#children
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Did You Know You Can Use Old Coffee Grounds In The Garden? Here's How To Compost Them
IN THIS GUIDE Why Coffee Grounds Should Be Composted Why They’re Useful in Compost Creation Composting With Coffee Grounds Methods for Composting Coffee Grounds 1) Typical Cold Composting (Heap Or Bin) 2) Vermicomposting 3) Bokashi Systems 4) Hot Composting 5) Composting In Place References Coffee grounds can be a very useful organic material, but composting them is only a good idea with certain caveats. In this article, we’ll look at the reasons why composting coffee grounds can be a good idea, but we’ll also take a look at why you have to be careful. We’ll explain the different methods for composting coffee grounds, and talk about how to avoid some common pitfalls. Why Coffee Grounds Should Be Composted It is important to understand that coffee grounds should ideally be composted before you use them in your garden in any other way. Caffeine Effects The first thing to consider is that un-composted coffee grounds contain caffeine – and caffeine can have an allelopathic effect.1 This means that this substance can limit or curtail the growth of plants, making it prohibitive to use in the garden.2 This substance originally developed in plants as a means to reduce surrounding competition. It gave the plants that contained it a competitive advantage. Caffeine does not have this effect on all plants, but it could, when used as a mulch, cause certain plants to be less strong and healthy. Scientists have also discovered that the caffeine present in coffee grounds can be sufficient to stop certain seeds from germinating effectively.3 So it would not be a good idea to spread it, for example, in a vegetable garden where you are about to plant some seeds. Compacting Issues Another reason that un-composted, unmixed coffee grounds are not a good idea as a mulch is that they compact very easily. The coffee grounds, when laid as a mulch, can form into a crust over the soil. It is a good idea to keep soil covered, either with a mulch or with living plants, but the soil covering should allow water and air to flow through. Coffee grounds compact and therefore can restrict air and water flow to the soil beneath. So when used incorrectly, this is another reason why coffee grounds in the garden could do more harm than good. You can sprinkle some coffee grounds around plants and cover them with a mulch of leaves, straw, leaf mould or garden compost. But turning the coffee grounds themselves into compost before using them as a mulch or soil amendment in your garden is usually a much better idea. Why They’re Useful in Compost Creation So far, we’ve focussed on the negative effects of using coffee grounds in the garden; you might be wondering why we should go to the effort of composting them. The fact of the matter is that coffee grounds, in spite of the limitations mentioned above, can be beneficial for your garden when used in the right way. Reducing Waste In organic gardening, we should always try to avoid waste whenever we can. We should do our best to recycle nutrients and complete nature’s cycles to grow our food and other plants. Composting coffee grounds is one of many ways that we can reduce waste and live in a more sustainable way.4 Increasing Garden Nutrients Creating compost is also very useful for the long term health of our gardens. When we compost coffee grounds along with other organic matter and kitchen waste, we reclaim the nutrients those materials contain. Coffee grounds are rich in nutrients essential to plant growth – especially nitrogen. The nutrients they contain can help create compost that will feed your plants.5 Nitrogen is important in a composting system. Often, the materials used in composting are categorised as either nitrogen-rich (green) or carbon-rich (brown) materials. Though brown in colour, coffee grounds are characterised as a ‘green’ material due to their relatively high nitrogen content. Adding nitrogen-rich materials like coffee grounds to a composting system helps the materials to break down more quickly. But be warned, though coffee grounds can be useful in composting, too many coffee grounds in composting can do more harm than good.6 Composting With Coffee Grounds The most important thing to understand is that coffee grounds should only be added to any composting system a little at a time. Avoid Adding Too Much Adding too many at one time without adding other materials can often have a detrimental effect. You need to keep the compost in balance, and add plenty of carbon-rich materials too. A composting system with too many nitrogen-rich materials and not enough carbon-rich materials can quickly become anaerobic.7 This means that the materials will decompose without oxygen – and that can mean that the compost will get slimy and begin to stink. Anti-Microbial Properties Another major problem is that coffee grounds can have anti-microbial properties. The goal in home composting is usually to create the right environment and conditions for aerobic decomposition (the breakdown of organic materials in the presence of oxygen). For decomposition to take place, we need oxygen, water, the right temperatures, and, crucially, a healthy population of micro-organisms. Composting relies on the presence of a range of fungi, bacteria and other life.8 Unfortunately, adding too many coffee grounds to a composting system can kill the beneficial microbes upon which the system depends. Effects On Earthworms Vermicomposting experts suggest that as coffee grounds break down in a composting system, they release organic compounds and chemicals that may harm or burn earthworms.9 In composting, we rely not only on micro-organisms but also on other soil life – worms included. The fact that coffee grounds may harm them is not good news for your garden. But it is also suggested that adding plenty of carbon-rich feedstock to the compost reduces this problem. Methods for Composting Coffee Grounds Which composting method you choose for disposing of coffee grounds will play a role in determining how beneficial it can be, and also on how much of this material can be added to the system at one time. Below, we’ll look at some common composting methods that could be effective ways to recycle and retain the nutrients that coffee grounds contain: 1) Typical Cold Composting (Heap Or Bin) The most common form of composting in a domestic setting is simply adding your ‘brown’ and ‘green’ materials to a heap, bin or other container. This type of composting is known as ‘cold composting’. The materials do heat up to a degree in these systems as they decompose, but they will not heat up as much as they do in a hot composting system (described below). 2) Vermicomposting Sometimes, special composting worms are deliberately added to a compost container. These composting worms eat through the organic material added and create ‘worm castings’ (worm poo). Worm castings are great for adding fertility and improving garden soil. Composting with worms is known as vermicomposting – it can be beneficial in speeding up the process of decomposition in cold composting systems. But coffee grounds should not be added to a vermicomposting system (at least not in any significant amount). A small quantity as a once-off will likely not do much harm as long as there is plenty of carbon-rich material (cardboard, dried leaves, etc..) in the system. But you should not make a habit of adding coffee grounds to a system of this kind due to its impact on the worms. If you plan to compost coffee grounds on a regular basis, it would be best to avoid a vermicomposting system. Instead, it will be better to use other means to speed up decomposition if you want to create compost more quickly. Investing in a compost tumbler (which will improve aeration) is one idea. Note that it is possible to add more coffee grounds to your vermicomposting system if you ferment your food waste in a bokashi system first. 3) Bokashi Systems Bokashi is not technically composting. Organic material is fermented rather than rotted – but it can be another interesting way to manage coffee grounds and avoid waste. A bokashi system also allows you to compost other ‘tricky’ compostable materials. Such as meat and dairy products, for example. Fermenting the coffee grounds first before adding them to a cold composting or vermicomposting system could be a good idea. Some people experiment with using coffee grounds in place of the bokashi ‘bran’ usually used in bokashi systems. So if you have access to large quantities of coffee grounds that you want to ‘recycle’ into soil amendment for your garden then this is something intriguing to look into further. 4) Hot Composting In a hot composting system, the goal is to achieve higher temperatures than in a cold composting system. The higher temperatures mean that the materials will break down more quickly. In hot composting, the temperature should be 60-68°C. Coffee grounds can be beneficial to add in reasonably low quantities to a hot composting system because, as a nitrogen-rich material, they can help keep up the temperatures inside the heap or bin. One of the negative impacts of composting coffee grounds is, as mentioned above, the effects on earthworms. In a hot composting system, you will generally aim for a different carbon to nitrogen ratio than you do in cold composting. As mentioned above, adding plenty of carbon can reduce this negative impact. So hot composting coffee grounds with plenty of carbon could be better for earthworms in your garden. You can hot compost coffee grounds along with other compostable materials in a heap or a container. A heap should not be too small (ideally, it should be no less than 4ft tall and 4ft wide so materials heat up enough inside). If you are using a container, it should be of a material that can absorb and retain heat. Yet should be ventilated so the mix does not become anaerobic. Hot composting can be more challenging than cold composting, but it will allow you to compost a wider range of materials – including small quantities of coffee grounds – more quickly. 5) Composting In Place We’ve already mentioned above that using coffee grounds as a mulch on their own is not a good idea, but there is one way to add them directly to your garden. That is, through composting in place. Unlike the other methods of composting mentioned above, this method does not involve creating a separate composting area in your home or garden. Rather, it involves layering organic materials in place on your growing areas or garden beds. Composting in place is sometimes referred to as ‘sheet mulching’. It can be used to create new growing areas or raised beds. As in a traditional composting system, this involves adding layers of ‘brown’ and ‘green’ materials. Since materials are added in layers, new beds made in this way, by composting in place, are sometimes referred to as ‘lasagna beds’. The materials in this type of growing area will break down in situ to slowly release nutrients for your plants. Coffee grounds can be added to the ‘green’ layers of lasagna beds or in sheet mulching in moderation as long as they are well-mixed with other materials. Care does need to be taken when composting with coffee grounds, as Master Horticulturist Dan Ori shares: “It does astound me how many people use coffee grounds on their garden thinking they are doing good when I have been trialling the use of spent coffee grounds as a weed growth suppressant. “Personally, I advise you not to use coffee grounds in the garden, and if you are going to add some to cold or hot composting, I would only add trace amounts. “I wish I could tell you a maximum trace amount to use in composting, but we just don’t have the studies to take an informed stab at a figure.” But get it right, and you can use the compost you create to add the nutrients they contain to your garden. References 1. Sugiyama, A., Sano, C. M., Yazaki, K., & Sano, H. (2016). Caffeine fostering of mycoparasitic fungi against phytopathogens. Plant Signaling & Behavior, 11(1), e1113362. https://doi.org/10.1080/15592324.2015.1113362 2. Research Progress on the use of Plant Allelopathy in Agriculture and the Physiological and Ecological Mechanisms of Allelopathy. (2015, November 17). Frontiers. Retrieved March 14, 2023, from https://www.frontiersin.org/articles/10.3389/fpls.2015.01020/full 3. Ransom, F. (1912). The Effects of Caffeine upon the Germination and Growth of Seeds. Biochemical Journal., 6(2), 151–155. https://doi.org/10.1042/bj0060151 4. Composting as a key to a sustainable future. (n.d.). Planet Forward. Retrieved March 14, 2023, from https://www.planetforward.org/idea/composting-as-a-key-to-a-sustainable-future 5. Coffee Grounds Perk up Compost Pile With Nitrogen. (2017, October 5). Oregon State University. Retrieved March 14, 2023, from https://today.oregonstate.edu/archives/2008/jul/coffee-grounds-perk-compost-pile-nitrogen 6. Wake up and use the coffee – grounds, that is! (n.d.). ANR Blogs. Retrieved March 14, 2023, from https://ucanr.edu/blogs/blogcore/postdetail.cfm?postnum=12978 7. Hu, S. (n.d.). Composting 101. NRDC. Retrieved March 14, 2023, from https://www.nrdc.org/stories/composting-101 8. Chapter 1, The Decomposition Process. (n.d.). Texas A&M University. Retrieved March 14, 2023, from https://aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu/earthkind/landscape/dont-bag-it/chapter-1-the-decomposition-process/ 9. Vermicomposting 101: Do Worms like Coffee Grounds? (2023, February 15). Uncle Jim’s Worm Farm. Retrieved March 14, 2023, from https://unclejimswormfarm.com/using-coffee-grounds-for-vermicomposting/
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Prune Buddleja To Increase Flowering - 'Remove Dying, Dead, Damaged Or Loose Stems'
IN THIS GUIDE Why Prune Buddleja? When To Prune Buddleja How To Prune Buddleja Perfectly Top Tips When Pruning Buddlejas You’ve Blooming Learnt Lots! The summer-flowering buddleja is easy to grow and just requires some yearly pruning to look wonderful. Commonly known as the ‘butterfly bush’, the aromatic flowers and spectacular blooming displays of buddleja are a favourite nectar source for butterflies. To help you enjoy the most out of your buddleja, this guide explains how and when to prune this fast-growing and flowering shrub. Why Prune Buddleja? Pruning refers to the removal of dying, dead or overgrown stems or branches to promote and encourage plant growth. Pruning helps to promote the well-being of shrubs such as encouraging them to grow properly and improving their quality. Most plants, including shrubs such as buddleja, benefit from maintenance and pruning. When caring for your shrubs, it is important to think of the two aspects of pruning. First, remove dying, dead, damaged or loose stems and branches from your plant. Then, prune back long stems on overgrown plants. Think of pruning as removing what’s harmful or useless to your shrub and training it on how it “should” grow. When To Prune Buddleja Left unpruned, buddleja will grow exceptionally large and all you will see are tangly twigs with lanky blooms right at the tips of the stems. Unless this is the look you are hoping for (and we can guess it is not), it is important to nail your pruning skills. Most buddleja flower on branches that grow in early summer, so ideally, you should prune your plant in early spring (usually March is recommended). However, severe frost (that sometimes arrives in spring thanks to the unpredictable British weather!), can cause damage to buddleja, so when to start pruning often depends on the weather. Keep a keen eye on the weather forecasts; if there is any mention of prolonged freezing temperatures or snow in the coming 10-day forecast, hold off from pruning a little longer. Bear in mind that buddlejas bloom on new wood. Even if there is no sign of damage or rot to the existing branches, cutting all the branches back near the ground in early spring will encourage beautiful blooms when the flowering season arrives. “If you have lots of buddlejas, especially if they’re in a group, you could delay the pruning of some of them until May,” says Master Horticulturist Peter Lickorish. “These plants will flower later, so can increase the flowering period. “However, if you plan on leaving the main prune for later, it is worthwhile pruning any tall, thin, wispy branches back by around half after flowering, in autumn.” How To Prune Buddleja Perfectly The right equipment can turn your garden from average to awesome, so before you start pruning your buddlejas, make sure you have secateurs, a pruning saw, and long-handled loppers in your tool kit. Using your secateurs, start by trimming back the top growth to around half its original height. This will make it easier to see what you are doing and will give you better access to the base. Next, grab your loppers or pruning saw and cut through the thick stems, at around 30cm above ground level. Don’t worry about being too scissors-happy; buddlejas are extremely vigorous and will quickly regrow. If possible, prune just a little higher than a growing shoot or bud. If you would prefer the plant to grow more than 3m in height, you should aim to leave the stems up to about 60cm long. Staying with your pruning saw or loppers, remove any dead branches or stubs. To minimise the chance of dieback, try to cut these back flush with the trunk. While you are doing this, remove any twiggy growth that you see growing from the base and thin out any crossing branches that you come across, removing the weakest one if two collide. Spent flower heads will also be removed at the same time. Again, do not fret about being too heavy-handed – this shrub will bounce back with a vengeance! While pruning buddleja, you should aim to produce a short but solid framework of five to six main branches, as Peter explains: “You may wish to slightly taper the height, so that the taller branches are in the middle.” Don’t worry if you cannot see many green shoots; buddleja will generate new growth from beneath the bark. Before finishing up (and making yourself a well-deserved brew!), lightly fork around the base to loosen any compaction you’ve caused by walking over the soil, and apply a mulch to the surface to suppress weeds and retain moisture. Top Tips When Pruning Buddlejas Stems you are keeping should be at least a foot tall. Trimming any shorter could cause damage to the shrub, so you should stop pruning when your stems are about a foot in length. Your buddleja should look a little like a stag’s antlers when you have finished pruning. Do not worry about how much you cut from the shrub. It is this intense pruning that helps the buddleja grow new flowers when the rainy season stops. Buddlejas can appear overcrowded if too many branches sprout out at once. If your buddleja looks thick or crowded, completely remove a few of the older branches to ground level, or where they join another, rather than just trimming them back. Buddleja flowers in lots of places. Both the main stems and side shoots can flower, so you should look in all places when you are seeking out dead flowers. You’ve Blooming Learnt Lots! Thanks for reading our buddleja pruning guide. Hopefully, you will now be inspired to maximise the potential in your beautiful garden. Remember that pruning is essential for your plant’s growth. By taking care of pruning on the front end, the less work you will need to do in the long haul. Pruning is all about the long term – and the best things are worth waiting for, after all.
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Black Spot Is An Illness Of Rose Leaves - Identify And Treat The Causes In 3 Easy Steps
IN THIS GUIDE What Is Black Spot? What Causes Black Spot On Rose Bushes? Effect Of Black Spot Treatment Options 1) Remove The Contagion 2) Curing With Topical Sprays 3) Prevention Is Better Than The Cure References Have you ever noticed that rose plant leaves tend to have black or almost dark purple spots on them? They may also present with yellowish or very light greenish foliage tone around the dark patches. This condition is called Rose Black Spot, or in scientific terminology, Diplocarpon rosae.1 What Is Black Spot? Black spot infected leaves on a rose plant. Black spot is an illness of rose leaves where they start to have an unattractive appearance with black or dark spots. Amidst the vibrant colour of roses, the foliage will turn into a mixture of yellow and light green with dark patches on the upper surface of the leaf. Over time, the leaves will wither and fall, causing the vigour of roses to drastically drop. “Black spot is one of the biggest problems with roses,” says Ben Stirton from Country Garden Roses. “However, a good feeding and watering regime will prevent the rose from getting stressed which will, therefore, make it less prone to disease.” What Causes Black Spot On Rose Bushes? “If your roses are well pruned, properly fed and decent recently-bred varieties are chosen, then this shouldn’t be a problem,” says Stewart Pocock from Pocock’s Roses. However, that does not mean that diseases cannot arise. The primary cause of rose black spot is a fungal infection; it is the gravest disease for the rose bush. The fungus, Diplocarpon rosae, weakens the plant’s vitality by infecting the leaves and gradually killing the plant.2 Rose black spot predominantly occurs at the beginning of spring and in very few cases, during the winter. If left untreated, the infection spreads to the entire rose bush. Like most fungal illnesses, black spot flourishes in moist conditions. You may notice the black spots produce spores that get carried away by the wind to other foliage or plants, so that other rose bushes also get infected by this as the spores spread. “When watering, especially at nighttime, keep the foliage dry,” advises Stewart. Effect Of Black Spot As the infection takes hold and progresses, the leaf zones around the dark patches turn to a hue of yellowish-green. When the whole leaf has turned yellow, it becomes weak and eventually drops off. With most leaves gone, the rose plant is now debilitated and exposed. “Black spot is unattractive on the plant and a severe attack year after year will weaken a plant,” warns Philip. “However, a lot of varieties marketed today can recover and grow back with vigour, as long as they have the basic needs of food, water and light provided in generous quantities.” Treatment Options The first step in treating black spot roses is prevention, as both our experts agree: “Being a breeder for so long, I grew the roses without treating them with fungicides to evaluate them for health,” shares Colin, the owner of the award-winning plant nursery Dickson Roses. “If you make sure your roses are given a balanced diet, it goes a long way to ensuring they thrive.” “Prevention is better than cure, and sulphur can act as a preventative fungicide and be applied as a spray or drench in the early season,” adds Philip. However, if the infection had already begun, worry not as you are still able to manage it. Once you have verified the symptoms of black spot, there are a few treatments you could administer to help save your roses. 1) Remove The Contagion First things first: it is incredibly important to remove the infection, in this case, the foliage with the black spots. Taking care of leaf litter and pruning the yellow ones from the canes reduce the risk of spreading the disease. “Air circulation through the rose is also a good preventative,” says Ben. “Stripping all the leaves off our roses and clearing the ground underneath if they get either of these diseases prevents the spores from infesting the new growth.” If you notice unhealthy stems before the leaves appear, eliminate them from your rose plant immediately. “When deadheading, it can be helpful to trim back harder,” adds Philip. “Giving more of a summer prune will encourage a larger amount of young vigorous growth which will be more resistant.” Try to refrain from putting the infected leaves and stems into a compost pile. Even a gentle breeze could blow the fungal spores back to your rose bushes. 2) Curing With Topical Sprays One of the best treatments for black spot or any type of fungal disease is routine spraying. “There are proprietary products on sale to stop the spread of blackspot which can be used according to the manufacturer’s instructions,” says Philip. With such a wide array of choices, it can be difficult to choose the right fungicidal spraying solution. Here are a few options to consider: Baking Soda Mix 1 teaspoon of baking soda to a quarter gallon of warm water. Add another teaspoon of liquid to the solution and give it a stir. Transfer the concoction to a bottle and generously spray the leaves of your rose plant. Rather than a cure, this remedy works best as a precaution against the fungus. Bordeaux Brew The deadly combination of copper sulphate and hydrated lime in water kills fungus and deters insects. But be gentle on the spraying dose because it can scald plants. We recommend using it as a precautionary measure during spring and late winter. Neem Oil Being an organic pesticide, Neem oil is cold-pressed from the seeds of the neem tree. One of the most active ingredients for repelling pests is Azadirachtin, which is abundantly found in extracted Neem oil.3 The organic oil enters the rose plant’s system and protects from within. Just watch out not to spray oil on the leaves during hot sun because it burns the foliage. Sulphur Spraying sulphur may sound like poisoning your rose bush but in fact, it works like a charm to treat fungus diseases and prevent future occurrences. We recommend you check the label of the sulphur powder before purchasing. If the package reads ‘soluble’ for mixing with water, it’s good to go. 3) Prevention Is Better Than The Cure Perhaps the most common phrase you hear while speaking to a botanist regarding plant health is “prevention works better than cure”. “In terms of plant diseases, black spot and mildew are the two main diseases roses face,” says David Allison, a Horticultural Advisor for The National Allotment Society. “You could spray your plants with a fungicide, but prevention is better than cure, so cleanliness is important. “This includes removing dead leaves on the ground once they have fallen so that any spores are not carried over from one year to the next.” “Choose varieties with good disease resistance and give them a good environment,” Philip says. “Are they well fed, watered, sunny and have enough space for decent airflow? A happy vigorous plant will have better natural resistance than stressed plants.” There’s also this list of preventive measures that ought to keep the roses healthy and your heart happy: Use sunlight: Choosing a space with maximum sunlight per day (we are talking around 6-8 hours of it) will improve the resilience of the roses as well as its vigour. As black spots are caused by moisture, constant sunlight and heat, this prevents vapours from forming thus eliminating the risk of infection through fungal diseases. Provide space for air: When planting roses, be mindful to give enough space for the plants to ‘breathe’. When planted in close proximity, moisture will form between the rose bushes and eventually cause a fungal infection. Good air circulation through adequate space alleviates this risk and keeps the foliage dry. Water sufficiently: When watering, be careful not to wet the top side of the leaves which could retain moisture that never evaporates. Rose plants do not require much irrigation so just a little bit of watering at ground level is more than enough. Ensure garden tidiness: A clean garden is a sight to behold. You can start by clearing fallen leaves or stems and practise raking up space around your rose bushes. Not only does this decrease the risk of fungal disease but also improves soil integrity. “Using wood chip mulch can help to prevent black spot by preventing water and rain splash of fungal spores onto the foliage,” shares Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly. “It will also help to optimise plant health by conserving soil moisture, providing slow release organic matter and helping to prevent compaction from footfall.” We hope you gained value from these solutions and that your roses continue to bloom proudly. References 1. Diplocarpon rosae. (n.d.). NatureSpot. Retrieved March 23, 2023, from https://www.naturespot.org.uk/species/diplocarpon-rosae 2. Black Spot of Rose. (2021, August 31). Cooperative Extension: Insect Pests, Ticks and Plant Diseases. Retrieved March 23, 2023, from https://extension.umaine.edu/ipm/ipddl/publications/5097e/ 3. Chaudhary, S., Kanwar, R., Sehgal, A., Cahill, D., Barrow, C., Sehgal, R., & Kanwar, J. (2017, May 8). Progress on Azadirachta indica Based Biopesticides in Replacing Synthetic Toxic Pesticides. Frontier. Retrieved March 23, 2023, from https://www.frontiersin.org/articles/10.3389/fpls.2017.00610/full
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