Growing
Grow These 8 Lily Types With Stunning Trumpet, Oriental And Asiatic Options
IN THIS GUIDE Expert Opinion Types Of Lilies 1) Asiatic Lilies 2) Oriental Lilies 3) Orienpet Lilies 4) Trumpet Lilies 5) Canada Lilies 6) Longiflorum Lilies 7) Longiflorum Asiatic ‘LA’ Hybrid Lilies 8) Turk’s Cap Lilies Let Loose With Lilies Delicately elegant and effortlessly beautiful, lilies are one of the most recognisable flowers in the world. They’ll be right at home in any style of garden, whether it’s a country cottage or something more modern and contemporary. “From Asiatic Lilies in pots used in a formal style to Martagon Lilies grown in a woodland understory in a naturalistic style, lilies offer something for every gardening temperament and style,” says Horticultural Consultant Colin Skelly. “I use them in both of these ways but considering the options, there are many more ways I should explore.” Lilies are often regarded as a little old fashioned but, thanks to thousands of hybrid varieties that see them blooming in every imaginable colour with their own unique fragrances, they’re making a comeback in a big way. Lilies are also suitable for any garden size as they can be grown in the open ground or pots, meaning you can include them in even the most compact space. Easy to grow and maintain, lilies are extremely rewarding and are the perfect way to add a boost of beauty and colour to your garden. This plant features heavily in various cultures and religions, where their symbolism plays a prominent role. Whether you believe in the symbolism of the lily, or just enjoy their gorgeous aesthetic, they’re an undeniably excellent addition to any garden. Expert Opinion “My favourite type of lilies changes throughout the growing season,” says Lynn Slackman, the President of the North American Lily Society. “The early Martagon and Species are a sight to behold, as they are both so petite and charming. “The Trumpets and Aurelian varieties are large, commanding, and fragrant, and the interdivisional hybrids that bloom towards the end of summer bring that last bang of colour and fragrance to the garden.” Types Of Lilies With so many Lilium varieties to choose from this can be a daunting task, so we’ve done the hard work for you. We have separated the lilies into eight divisions and picked out our favourite type within each division – as well as many further choices (with an image for each!). 1) Asiatic Lilies Bred from several different types of lilies, these hybrids provide the earliest lily bloom. Their petals are often spotted and can be white, yellow, red or orange. They also make long-lasting cut flowers and are a popular choice for wedding bouquets. Their lack of fragrance means that they won’t disrupt the scent of the perfume that a bride may be wearing. Our Favourite Asiatic: Lilium ‘Grand Cru’ Brighten up your garden with the gorgeous Lilium ‘Grand Cru’ This cultivar of lily is a gorgeous, upwards facing plant with bright yellow, wide-open flowers. The grand cru blooms from early to mid-summer and is ideal as a border plant, providing a showy blast of colour which will contrast nicely with perennial plants. Growing up to four feet in height, this plant is beloved by bees and easy to grow and maintain. This cultivar will also grow reliably in containers so are perfect even within a smaller garden. More Asiatic Lilies Pink Giant Tiger Lily ‘Fata Morgana’ ‘Apricot Fudge’ ‘Must See’ ‘Stargazer’ ‘Elodie’ ‘Eyeliner’ ‘Lollypop’ ‘Yellow Bruse’ ‘Levi’ ‘Friso’ ‘Black Pearl’ 2) Oriental Lilies If you are looking to fill your garden with fragrance, then oriental lilies are the way to go. Their pretty perfume is most prevalent in the evenings and is the perfect companion for balmy evenings when you sit out on your patio or decking. This variety produces broad leaves and large exotic flowers, blooming in shades of pink, purple, white and yellow. Oriental lilies are known for their big, flamboyant personalities and bloom for an extended period of time between mid to late summer and often right through into autumn. Our Favourite Oriental: Lilium ‘Starlight Express’ This eye-catching and fragrant plant is a real showstopper with up to fifteen fabulous flowers per stem. Best grown in full sunshine this is a truly rewarding plant and is ideal for adding glorious splashes of colour to your borders. This cultivar is incredibly easy to grow and care for, and the colour and scent can transform your garden. They are also perfect for container growing and make excellent fresh cut flowers. More Oriental Lilies ‘Casablanca’ ‘Big Smile’ ‘Big Brother’ ‘Polar Star’ ‘Dizzy’ ‘Aisha’ ‘Companion’ ‘Exotic Sun’ ‘Kaveri’ ‘Marlon’ ‘Petrolia’ ‘Sorbonne’ 3) Orienpet Lilies Crossed between oriental hybrids and trumpet types, orienpet lilies are the perfect variety for your summer garden. These beautiful lilies are highly aromatic and come in a huge array of colours. Our Favourite Orienpet: L. ‘Black Beauty’ Blooming ‘Black Beauty’ The Lilium ‘Black Beauty’ is a truly spectacular garden plant and is extraordinarily vigorous. Its deep crimson flowers are embellished with thin white margins which bloom in mid-late summer. Best planted in full sun or partial shade, this lily will thrive in fertile, acidic, well-drained soil. They are resistant to disease, and much more tolerant to heat, cold and drought than many other varieties. These factors combine to give this cultivar a reputation as a real break-through in lily breeding. More Orienpet Lilies ‘Anastasia’ ‘Belladonna’ ‘Flashpoint’ ‘Nymph’ ‘Robert Swanson’ ‘Scheherazade’ 4) Trumpet Lilies Known also as Aurelian lilies, this type is prolific in appearance and colour, and are also gloriously fragrant. Named for its triumphant, trumpet-shaped flowers, this type comes in shades of pink, yellow, orange, cream and white. They are magnificently tall, easy to grow and can produce up to fifteen blooms per stalk. They have an exceptionally long flowering period and are perfect for perennial borders. Our Favourite Trumpet: L. ‘African Queen’ The queen of the lilies Delightfully fragrant the L. ‘African Queen’ certainly deserves its royal title. It’s large, apricot coloured trumpets give it a real sense of ceremony and the outer petals boast a beautiful burgundy colour, creating an air of luxury. This glorious lily is celebrated for its sensational scent and its magnificent aesthetics. Growing up to 6 feet in height, this easy-to-grow lily performs best in full sun or partial shade and, despite its grand name, is not fussy about soil types. Plant in spring or autumn and you will be rewarded with a sensationally striking display. More Trumpet Lilies ‘White Planet’ ‘Regale’ ‘Bellsong’ ‘Pink Perfection’ ‘Golden Splendor’ ‘Easter’ ‘Regale’ 5) Canada Lilies This North American native type of lily is blessed with beautiful yellow or orange petals and can grow up to four feet in height. With each stalk producing up to eight leaves per stem and up to twenty gorgeous flowers, this variety has become a firm favourite among gardeners. Best suited to woodland gardens, Canada lilies will thrive in meadow-like areas. It is worth noting, however, that while they are well-loved by gardeners, they are equally adored by rabbits and deer. If you live in a countryside setting this might not be the ideal lily type for you. Wild yellow Lilies Introduce the true colour of summer to your garden Sporting bright, fresh yellow blooms with adorable black spots, this is one of the most charming varieties of lily. That said, whilst it is easy to plant, you may end up waiting up to five years for them to come into bloom. Most Canada lilies are best grown from bulbs and prefer full sun or partial shade in slightly acidic soil. These delightful plants add charm and whimsy to your garden and bring with it the true colour of summer. 6) Longiflorum Lilies Typically known as Easter lilies, longiflorums are encouraged to bloom out of season by exposing the bulbs to the right conditions. With their trumpet-like shape and scented white blooms, this type requires a little more expertise, but are well worth the patience. After enjoying their beautiful bloom, you should introduce the bulbs into your garden where they will enjoy full sunshine and well-drained soil. Our Favourite Longiflorum: ‘Elegant Lady’ Elegant by name, elegant by nature Also known as pink easter lilies this sweetly scented plant is a joy to include in any garden. With their delicate pink petals that transcend into dusky, pink centres, these are a pleasure to behold. This cultivar is outstanding for attracting bees and butterflies, and other vital pollinators and are a perfect accompaniment to borders or patio containers. Choose a sheltered position in moist soil and watch this beauty thrive and breathe life into your garden. More Longiflorum Lilies ‘Vuvuzela’ 7) Longiflorum Asiatic ‘LA’ Hybrid Lilies Created from a combination of Asiatic and Easter lilies, this cultivar is the real “showgirl” of the bunch. What they lack in fragrance they make up for in colour, with pinks and yellows, creams and whites and almost everything in between. These lilies are an exciting crossbreed of Asiatic and Easter lilies and perform well in gardens thanks to how quickly they multiply. Our Favourite LA Hybrid: L. ‘Kentucky’ A taste of the exotic With their burnt orange complexion, sprinkled with a shower of burgundy spots, the Kentucky lily is striking to behold. Like most lilies, this variety also favours full sun to partial shade and will bring a vibrant boost to your garden. If you are keen to add a taste of the exotic to your garden, then the Kentucky lily is just what the doctor ordered. With its leopard-like patterns and colours to die for, this plant will be a focal point of your garden and will truly bring it to life. More LA Hybrid Lilies ‘Brindisi’ ‘Forza Red’ ‘Courier’ ‘Royal Sunset’ ‘Corallo’ ‘Golden Tycoon’ ‘Indian Diamond’ ‘Pink Brush’ 8) Turk’s Cap Lilies Last, but certainly not least, the Turk’s cap lily is easily recognisable by its lovely blooms which dangle down its stalks. Blossoming in colours of pink, purple, orange and red, Turk’s cap lilies are the perfect way to add a little romance into your garden. Our Favourite Turk’s Cap: Martagon Lily Beautiful and balletic Martagon lilies can grow up to nine feet in height and are the perfect way to add towering colour, texture and structure to your garden. This cultivar requires rich soil, and though they prefer full sun, they will still do well in dappled shade. This lily’s gorgeous flowers give the impression of dancing ballerinas and bring a sense of serenity and peace to any garden. More Turk’s Cap Lilies ‘Lady Alice’ ‘Henry’ ‘Scheherazade’ (again!) L. speciosum var. rubrum ‘Arabian Night’ ‘Orange Marmalade’ Let Loose With Lilies By now you should know all you need to know about the abundance of lily varieties and the many shades and colours they can provide to your garden. Lilies are surprisingly easy to grow and contribute significantly to your garden’s personality. With so many options to choose from, it’s easy to see that there is a perfect lily for any garden, no matter its size. So let loose and start planting, and soon your garden will be filled with the exquisite beauty of lilies.
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Celebrated Gardeners Share 98 Outdoor Planter Ideas For Inspired Container Growing
IN THIS GUIDE Outdoor Planter Ideas 1) Plastic 2) Wooden 3) Metal 4) Ceramic & Terracotta 5) Vegetables 6) Fruit Planter 7) Hanging Planter Upcycled Outdoor Garden Planter Ideas 8) Wheelbarrow 9) Jar Planters 10) Teapots 11) Ladder Planter 12) Pallet Planter 13) Wellington Boots 14) Toy Planters 15) Vertical Planter 16) Colander Planter 17) Tyre Planter Have We Planted An Idea? Utilising garden planters can be a great way to add depth, texture, structure and colour to your garden. They’re also very practical. If you have a small garden, and especially if you have no flower beds or soil to work with, then garden planters can make all the difference. Planters are also ideal for adding appeal to patios and decking, small balconies, or as a way to add a touch of beauty to your driveway. “Everything I grow in a garden, I will also plant in a pot or planter just to compare,” shares Gerald Stratford, the author of Big Veg. If you haven’t worked with garden planters before, it can be a bit daunting to know where to start. That’s why we’ve done all the hard work for you with our article showcasing all the wonderful things you can do with planters to bring new flair to your garden, no matter its size. Outdoor Planter Ideas There are thousands of types of garden planters, pots and containers, so the options are close to unlimited. We’ve picked out some of our favourites to help you decide on the perfect planters for you. 1) Plastic Starting with the basics, plastic planters can be seen in many gardens and are a great starting point for novice gardeners. Plastic planters are long-lasting and come in an array of sizes, shapes and colours. Affordable and lightweight, plastic planters generally come with draining holes at the bottom, but if they don’t you can make your own, as Gerald explains: “I take an old milk carton and make some holes in it about 1 inch up from the bottom, then fill it with compost and hang it outdoors. “Every salad crop you think of I can grow in these plastic pots. My partner just helps herself throughout summer and autumn.” Although they should not be used for particularly heavy plants, thousands of varieties can be grown in these planters. “As plastic planters are not porous, they allow moisture to be retained well in the potting compost,” adds Roy Nicol, a Professional Gardener and Horticulturist. 2) Wooden As with their plastic counterparts, wooden planters come in many shapes, sizes and colours and are also remarkably easy to build yourself. These are a great option if you want to give your garden a more rustic appearance and they also have excellent drainage. Do bear in mind that wooden planters are prone to rot, so it’s essential to protect the wood with a plastic liner. “Just outside by backdoor, I have, what I call, my salad bar,” says Gerald. “I’ve made a frame against the fence out of old wooden pallets, but it can be made with any old bits of wood that you have knocking around.” 3) Metal Metal planters are cheap, cheerful and attractive. They can be shop bought or, if you are feeling creative, you could repurpose an old metal bucket or similar. Metal planters can add a quirky dynamic to your garden, but you may find that they have poor drainage. It’s important to drill in holes to prevent the plants from root rot. “One downside to metal planters is they conduct heat easily, thereby becoming hot in the summer and allowing frost to penetrate in the winter,” explains Roy. “It’s best to assess if the plant can cope with these conditions or you can move them as required.” 4) Ceramic & Terracotta Ceramic and terracotta planters are elegant and stylish and are perfect for outdoor planting. “Terra cotta is a good material to use as it is porous, so it allows the plant’s to breathe,” says Garden Designer Isabelle Palmer. They can be beautiful, but on the flip side, they are also heavy, breakable and expensive. So if you’re going down this route, you may wish to place them somewhere where they are unlikely to get knocked over or damaged. “Unglazed terracotta pots are porous and loose moisture relatively quickly so watering regimes need to consider this,” says Roy. 5) Vegetables Although they can be shop bought, if you have some decent DIY skills then building a vegetable planter can be a really rewarding experience. Traditionally they are built from wood, although you could easily plant in a decent-sized plastic container. This is a great opportunity to grow delicious edibles to enjoy with the whole family. Good drainage is absolutely essential for a vegetable planter so make sure you factor that in. 6) Fruit Planter As with the vegetable planter, the fruit planter can be bought or made and will also require good drainage. You will, of course, be limited to the types of the fruit you can grow depending on the size of your planter, but even with a small space, there is still lots you can do. This is also a great way to get kids into gardening and learning about where their food comes from. 7) Hanging Planter Hanging planters are a quick and easy way to add a little romance and charm to your garden, and are ideal if you have limited space. Hanging baskets are a great way to add a splash of colour to your garden and are easy to care for and maintain. You can plant anything from flowers and succulents to veggies, fruit or herbs and hanging planters are lightweight with excellent drainage. “Even with a moss lining, hanging baskets loose moisture quickly, especially in summer months, so daily watering is essential for most bedding plants,” explains Roy. “Another great material for planters is clay fibre. It is lightweight, inexpensive and sustainable as it’s made from recycled materials and uses a fraction of the energy used for the manufacture of terracotta or plastic.” Upcycled Outdoor Garden Planter Ideas There are endless options when it comes to making an upcycled planter, so we decided to dedicate a whole section of this article to upcycled planter inspiration. Whether you use an old set of drawers, a ladder or an old tin bath, this is a great way to put your own personal touch on your garden. Repurposing an old piece of furniture can create a real focal point for your garden and give it its own unique spin. 8) Wheelbarrow Wheelbarrow planters are a great way to give your garden a rough and rugged edge. An old, retired wheelbarrow is perfect for growing herbs and succulents, and the depth of the wheelbarrow means you can use good layers of quality soil allowing your plants to thrive beautifully. Wheelbarrows are built to be durable, so this planter could last you for many, many years. You may need to drill in drainage holes to allow your plants to flourish fully. 9) Jar Planters Upcycled mason jars make for stylish and trendy planters and are great for growing herbs and cacti. You can place the jars on your patio or decking or, with a piece of twine, could be hung from a wall or a branch. Mason jar planters are also a fun project to make with your kids and, because the jars are glass the children can see the roots of the plants growing, presenting the perfect opportunity to educate them on how and why plants grow. 10) Teapots An old teapot can be an adorable and whimsical addition to your garden and will really give the space character. These are another easy upcycle project and are an attractive way to display plants. This is another planter that, with some types of teapots, you can also hang. It’s always so disappointing when you discover a crack in your favourite teapot but, by transforming it into a planter, you can continue to enjoy your cracked pot for years to come. 11) Ladder Planter Repurposing a ladder to display plants is a great way to add additional levels and structure to your garden. They are also a great way to liven up a dull, empty garden wall. You may want to consider painting your ladder planter some funky colours to breathe life into and a splash of colour to your garden. With a keen eye, a ladder planter can be a real showstopper and a talking point among guests. 12) Pallet Planter If you are running out of space on your patio and decking then using a pallet as a planter could be just the ticket to add more plants to the area. A pallet planter allows you to grow vertically and use very little ground space. Great for growing vegetables, fruit and herbs as well as gorgeous, colourful flowers and with a lick of paint a pallet plater can be hugely impactful on your garden, breathing new life into it. 13) Wellington Boots If you are thinking about disposing of your old wellies, then stop right there. “Discarded wellie boots can be reused as little containers for plants,” says Danny Clarke, also known as The Black Gardener. Wellington boots can make wonderfully unique and characterful planters that can add fun and whimsy to your garden. If you are particularly good at art, you could also paint patterns or flowers on the boot planters to add an extra special layer of charm and personality. 14) Toy Planters Still got old children’s toys hanging about but can’t quite bring yourself to throw them away? If you are still feeling sentimental about that little toy truck your kid was so enamoured with then why not display it as a beautiful planter? It needn’t just be limited to toy trucks either. There are plenty of children’s toys that are simply perfect for planters, and it’s a great way to hang onto things without them taking up space at the back of cupboards. 15) Vertical Planter An old hanging shoe rack can easily be converted into the perfect outdoor garden planter. Vertical gardens are so popular these days, and these types of plant pots look like they were made for the job. Shoe racks are ideal for growing herbs which you can use in your cooking, and also make a superbly attractive backdrop to a patio or decking. 16) Colander Planter Colanders already have built-in drainage so are perfect for an outdoor planter. They can also easily be transformed into a hanging planter if the inside is lined with sphagnum moss. Most plants will thrive in these planters, making them a cute and kooky way to decorate your garden. You can even spray the colander to give it your own personal style. “There’s all sorts of design possibilities with pots,” shares Garden Designer Bunny Guinness. “For example, you could paint them the same colour as your house.” However, if you do paint it, because of the chemicals, it would be best to avoid planting edibles like fruit and veggies and herbs. 17) Tyre Planter Got an old tyre lying around? Tyres make for excellent outdoor planters and can be used to grow both horizontally and vertically. Tyres can also be painted in different colours to help accentuate the aesthetics of your garden. If you have access to quite a few tyres, you can also stack them on top of each other to help you play with different levels in your garden. Have We Planted An Idea? Planters are an ideal solution when you are limited on space, and they’re generally a brilliant way to give your garden its own unique twist. “There are so many things you can do that can give your garden some personality,” says Danny. Don’t be afraid to think outside the box and use all of your creative talents – soon your garden will be filled with perfect outdoor planters.
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These 15 Gargantuan Plants With Huge Leaves Will Make A Statement In Any Garden
IN THIS GUIDE 1) Japanese Banana 2) Plantain Lily 3) Elephant Ear / Taro 4) Chinese Rice Paper Plant 5) Angel’s Trumpet 6) Giant Rhubarb 7) Giant Butterbur 8) Umbrella Plant 9) Broussa Mullein 10) Greater Sea Kale 11) Siberian Bugloss 12) Chusan Palm 13) Castor Oil Plant 14) Leopard Plant 15) Canna Lily Create your own tropical paradise As gardeners, we spend a lot of our time investing ourselves in growing and caring for flowering plants. We’re also prone to forget that many other impactful plants deserve to be included in our gardens. If you are looking to add structure and texture to your garden, or want to create a more tropical or jungle-like theme, then choosing large leaf foliage plants is just what the doctor ordered. Foliage plants with large leaves are attention-grabbing and can really make a statement, bringing a luscious, exotic feel to your garden. If you have a small garden, don’t feel like you are going to be left out, there are plenty of options that will make a significant impact in a more modest-sized garden and allow you to play around with scale. Add a taste of the tropics to your garden “Large-leaved plants provide a lush feel to gardens and, combined with some bold coloured foliage and flowers such as dahlias, cannas and crocosmias, you can feel like you are in a different country,” shares Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly. “This can be achieved with pots in small spaces as well as in plants in the ground in larger spaces.” Because these plants are so often overlooked, you may find it tricky to know which ones to choose for your garden, so we’ve put together a list of our favourites to help you narrow it down. Now that you’ve decided your garden needs the bold boost that large foliage plants provide, it’s time to have a look at which ones would be right for your garden. Here is a list of our top contenders to inspire you and help you get started – 1) Japanese Banana BOTANICAL NAME: MUSA BASJOO PLANT TYPE: HERBACEOUS PERENNIAL HARDINESS RATING: H2 TYPICAL HEIGHT / SPREAD: 4M x 2M PREFERRED ASPECT: FULL SUN; SHELTERED With a majestic plant like this in your garden, guests could be forgiven for thinking they’ve just stepped right onto the set of A Jungle Book. This tropical treasure produces huge, elegant leaves and will occasionally reward you with bunches of bananas. Best planted between spring and autumn, the banana plant can grow to up to 4m in height. Plant in well-drained soil in a sheltered spot that gets plenty of sunshine. This jumbo, jungly plant should be pruned in spring and, once established, should be fed and watered generously to help it achieve the best foliage. Though these are tender plants, some varieties can cope with being left outside over winter, especially if you live in a milder part of the UK. 2) Plantain Lily BOTANICAL NAME: HOSTA PLANT TYPE: HERBACEOUS PERENNIAL HARDINESS RATING: H7 TYPICAL HEIGHT / SPREAD: 1M x 1M PREFERRED ASPECT: PART SHADE; SHELTERED This popular and powerful plant is loved by gardeners and is typically grown for its fantastic foliage. There is a vast variety to choose from with the colours of leaves ranging from green to blue, to vibrant yellow. The size of their leaves also varies with some up to 40cm in length. Lots of hostas also produce purple or white flowers in the summer months. Hostas are super easy to grow and display gorgeous foliage from spring to autumn and with good care will last for many years. Best planted in spring or autumn in moist soil, hostas love the shade so find them a spot that is out of the sun. Hostas are very low maintenance but, once established, make sure their soil is always slightly damp and they may require additional watering in dry spells. The main thing to be aware of is that slugs absolutely cannot resist hostas so be prepared to research ways to protect your plants and repel the invading slugs. 3) Elephant Ear / Taro BOTANICAL NAME: COLOCASIA PLANT TYPE: EVERGREEN PERENNIAL HARDINESS RATING: H1B TYPICAL HEIGHT / SPREAD: 2M x 1M PREFERRED ASPECT: PART SHADE; SHELTERED This exotic beauty produces colossal, heart-shaped, deep green leaves and there are plenty of reasons to include them in your garden. They are brilliant to use as ground-cover or to provide an attractive, textured backdrop to other plants. They are also perfect to use as edging plants for ponds or surrounding your patio. Elephant ear plants are easy to grow and once established, require very little attention. Plant the bulbs in rich, moist soil in partial sun – the tubers should be planted in the garden after the threat of frost has diminished. During dry spells, we recommend that you water more regularly and you may also wish to use fertiliser. Elephant ear will not stand a chance against freezing temperatures so if you live in an area that experiences harsh winters, you should carefully dig the plant up and overwinter it indoors. 4) Chinese Rice Paper Plant BOTANICAL NAME: Tetrapanax papyrifer ‘Rex’ PLANT TYPE: SHRUB HARDINESS RATING: H4 TYPICAL HEIGHT / SPREAD: 6M x 6M PREFERRED ASPECT: FULL SUN; SHELTERED If you want to introduce this gargantuan plant to your garden, this is the one. Its leaves alone can grow up to 60cm in length, with the plant growing up to 4m in height with a spread of up to 2.5m. This humongous, hardy evergreen has gorgeous green leaves and produces cream coloured flowers in autumn. The Chinese rice paper plant can be grown year-round and should be planted in sun or partial shade, in moist, well-drained soil and in a spot where it will be well protected from cold winds. We also recommend providing a deep layer of mulch during the winter months. Once established these plants are super easy to care for, just keep them well watered and be sure to provide a well-balanced fertiliser throughout springtime. As far as pruning goes just be sure to remove the leaves when they get scruffy and if you wish, you can cut back in late-winter to your desired size. These are an absolutely ideal plant for an exotic styled garden and will provide texture and structure to your garden. 5) Angel’s Trumpet BOTANICAL NAME: Brugmansia PLANT TYPE: SHRUB HARDINESS RATING: H1C TYPICAL HEIGHT / SPREAD: 4M x 2M PREFERRED ASPECT: FULL SUN; SHELTERED Also known as Brugmansia, this plant is a perfect addition to any jumbo jungle-themed garden. Angel’s trumpet sports gorgeous foliage and create a tropical spectacle with their glorious, fragrant, trumpet-shaped flowers that bloom from summer to autumn. Brugmansias should be planted in containers individually and placed in a warm, sheltered area in partial shade. These plants dislike dry conditions and should be watered and fed frequently during summer. They really don’t tolerate the cold well so we highly recommend that you move them inside during the winter months. Angel’s trumpet is a head turner so make sure you place them in a focal point so everyone can enjoy their exquisite beauty and grace. 6) Giant Rhubarb BOTANICAL NAME: Gunnera manicata PLANT TYPE: HERBACEOUS PERENNIAL HARDINESS RATING: H5 TYPICAL HEIGHT / SPREAD: 2.5M x 4M PREFERRED ASPECT: FULL SUN / PART SHADE 7) Giant Butterbur BOTANICAL NAME: Petasites japonicus PLANT TYPE: HERBACEOUS PERENNIAL HARDINESS RATING: H6 TYPICAL HEIGHT / SPREAD: 1.5M x 8M PREFERRED ASPECT: FULL SHADE / PART SHADE 8) Umbrella Plant BOTANICAL NAME: Darmera peltata PLANT TYPE: HERBACEOUS PERENNIAL HARDINESS RATING: H6 TYPICAL HEIGHT / SPREAD: 1M x 1M PREFERRED ASPECT: FULL SUN / PART SHADE 9) Broussa Mullein BOTANICAL NAME: Verbascum bombyciferum PLANT TYPE: HERBACEOUS PERENNIAL HARDINESS RATING: H6 TYPICAL HEIGHT / SPREAD: 2M x 1M PREFERRED ASPECT: FULL SUN 10) Greater Sea Kale BOTANICAL NAME: Crambe cordifolia PLANT TYPE: HERBACEOUS PERENNIAL HARDINESS RATING: H5 TYPICAL HEIGHT / SPREAD: 2M x 1.5M PREFERRED ASPECT: FULL SUN / PART SHADE 11) Siberian Bugloss BOTANICAL NAME: Brunnera macrophylla PLANT TYPE: HERBACEOUS PERENNIAL HARDINESS RATING: H6 TYPICAL HEIGHT / SPREAD: 0.5M x 0.5M PREFERRED ASPECT: FULL SHADE / PART SHADE 12) Chusan Palm BOTANICAL NAME: Trachycarpus fortunei PLANT TYPE: PALM TREE HARDINESS RATING: H5 TYPICAL HEIGHT / SPREAD: 2.5M x 10M PREFERRED ASPECT: FULL SUN / PART SHADE 13) Castor Oil Plant BOTANICAL NAME: Ricinus communis ‘Carmencita’ PLANT TYPE: SHRUB HARDINESS RATING: H2 TYPICAL HEIGHT / SPREAD: 2.5M x 1M PREFERRED ASPECT: FULL SUN 14) Leopard Plant BOTANICAL NAME: LIGULARIA PLANT TYPE: HERBACEOUS PERENNIAL HARDINESS RATING: H6 TYPICAL HEIGHT / SPREAD: 2.5M x 1M PREFERRED ASPECT: FULL SUN; SHELTERED 15) Canna Lily BOTANICAL NAME: CANNA PLANT TYPE: TENDER PERENNIAL HARDINESS RATING: H3 TYPICAL HEIGHT / SPREAD: 1.5M x 0.5M PREFERRED ASPECT: FULL SUN; SHELTERED Create your own tropical paradise Hopefully, you’ve enjoyed learning about our five favourite large leaf foliage plants. As you can imagine, there are thousands of plants to choose from, all with different attributes, so you’ve got plenty of options to bring your garden up to your exact specification. These plants can help to showcase your flowers and will add a dynamic depth to your garden refuge. Be sure to research your plants before planting; some can grow to enormous scales so it’s essential to confirm that you have adequate space for them to thrive. Growing such large plants can be a bit daunting at first but they will help to boost your garden to boastful and splendid levels. Be bold, be brave, be extra, and give your garden that boastful, brilliant, exotic look that you’ve been dreaming of.
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Get Planning And Start A Vegetable Patch In Your Garden With This 12 Step Guide
IN THIS GUIDE Get Planning 1) Choose The Right Spot 2) Decide What You Want To Grow 3) Start Designing Start Prepping 4) Must-Have Tools 5) Prepare The Soil Start Planting! 6) Arranging Your Plants 7) Choose Climbing Plants To Save Space 8) Consider Companion Planting 9) Make Use Of Pots & Containers 10) Time Your Crops Caring For Your Vegetable Patch 11) Pesky Pests 12) Fertilise Dream Vegetable Patch References There are few things more satisfying than enjoying a plateful of your very own homegrown vegetables. Vegetable patches have become increasingly popular over the last decade with more people wanting to be more self-sufficient. There is simply no comparison to the taste of a fresh potato or runner bean that you picked the same day; it is a wonderful reward for your hard work. That said, starting a vegetable patch can feel overwhelming for some, but it’s actually a lot easier than you imagine. Nothing beats the taste of homegrown vegetables… “I know so many people who are absolutely terrified about putting seeds in the ground,” says Kate Cotterill, Co-Director of She Grows Veg. “Even with the best will in the world, it is trial and error. I think the message is to just try it.” So if you are struggling to know where to begin, we’ve put together the best ideas for starting a vegetable patch. Get Planning Now that you have decided that you are ready to take on the challenge of starting your very own vegetable patch, then it’s time to start planning. Organisation is one of the critical aspects of growing a happy vegetable patch. A disorganised patch can lead to a whole bunch of problems, and you really want to give yourself the best possible chance right from the start. 1) Choose The Right Spot Most veggies need the sun to thrive, although some do well in dappled shade. Try to find a sunny spot where the ground is level and an area that is well protected from strong winds. Make sure you do not choose a space that’s under a tree as your crops will not grow if they are in full shade. “For those plants which have a preference for warmer conditions such as melons, cucumbers, cucamelons and peppers, we have a polytunnel and two greenhouses which keeps them happy,” shares Joe Harrison, Garden Blogger & Horticulturist. You may also want to try to choose a location close to a tap or water butt so you can avoid traipsing back and forth with your watering can. “If your chosen spot is not already sheltered, consider planting a low hedge, such as hornbeam,” says Master Horticulturist Peter Lickorish. “This will filter drying winds, which can also erode soil.” 2) Decide What You Want To Grow When it comes to choosing what to grow in your first vegetable patch, we recommend that you start small. For beginners, consider growing veg like potatoes, runner beans, carrots, strawberries, tomatoes, courgettes and similar. Choose plants that are both easy and rewarding and also consider your location and what works well there. “I live in an area prone to drought most of the growing season, so unless you want to be constantly watering, there will be some crops that are just better suited to be grown in the environment where I live,” says Kate. “If you live further north in the UK where there is a bit more rain and the conditions are different, there will be stuff that works better up there.” You should also consider how many people are going to be eating your crops – you don’t want to grow too much and end up letting it go to waste. It’s also a great idea to draw up a growing calendar, so you know when and what to plant. 3) Start Designing Make sure you sit down and draw out a plan of how you want your veggie patch to look. Ideally, you want to make sure you get the most out of the space, but that said you must avoid overcrowding. Make sure you consider the size of the veg you are hoping to plant and allow space for that too. Start Prepping Once you’ve designed your dream vegetable patch, it is time to start prepping the area so you can get planting as well as getting everything you will need to maintain it once it has been established. 4) Must-Have Tools There are few items that you will absolutely need when it comes to caring for your vegetable patch, and they are as follows: Garden rake Fork Wheelbarrow Gloves Pruning shears Trowel Hose or watering can Kneeling pad Stakes to support climbing plants 5) Prepare The Soil Give your patch a thorough digging over, as this will help to break up the soil. We recommend digging down to a minimum of one spade depth, but if you can go deeper then do! Make sure you are continuously weeding throughout this process. We highly recommend that you also dig in some compost to help you achieve the highest quality of soil. “Homemade compost or compost donated from someone who already has a plot is bulkier and preferable to bagged compost,’ says Peter. Manure is also extremely beneficial to your vegetable patch, just ensure it’s already rotted; otherwise, it will be too overbearing for the plants. If you have shallow soil, then adding compost and manure on top will help provide the depth needed to grow your veggies. Once you have finished preparing the soil, rake it level and tamp it down firmly with the back of the rake to consolidate it. Start Planting! Now that your soil is ready, it is finally time to start planting. “Don’t be afraid if stuff fails, get some seeds and start sowing them,” Kate says. Obviously, all plant needs vary, but we’ve put together a little guide to help you on your way. 6) Arranging Your Plants Plants despise overcrowding, and they will not thrive if they are all bunched up close together. Instead of growing your plants in rows or squares, we recommend that you instead opt for triangles so that you stagger the plants.1 This will help prevent the plants from being too close together, but it is also much more efficient as you will be able to plant up to 15% more plants in each bed. “I’m a bit of a rebel when it comes to vegetables and like to space them a little closer than what the books and packets generally recommend so that I can harvest plants a little younger when they’re more tender,” says Peter. “Doing this to excess will crowd out your crops, but as an example, I prefer harvesting loose cabbage leaves than giving space for plants to form a large head.” 7) Choose Climbing Plants To Save Space If you have a more modest-sized garden, you can utilise your space by growing vertically. Runner beans, peas, squash and melons are all great vertical growers. Use stakes, fences and trellises to support them, and you will be rewarded with a bountiful harvest. 8) Consider Companion Planting Some veggies grow particularly well when planted together, and choosing compatible crops will also help you make better use of your space. The strong stems of corn will help support runner beans, while squash will grow at ground level helping to prevent the growth of weeds. 9) Make Use Of Pots & Containers If you are restricted by the size of your garden, using pots and containers will give you greater flexibility without taking up too much room. If you are really struggling when it comes to space, then you could grow some of your veggies inside to help boost your harvest and allow for more variety in what you grow. This is especially effective for harvesting baby vegetables. 10) Time Your Crops By applying succession planting, you can then grow more than one crop throughout the growing season. If applied successfully, you will be able to harvest up to four crops from one single spot. By choosing plants that mature quickly, you can really get the most out of your harvest and will end up with a much more rounded variety of veggies. Caring For Your Vegetable Patch Once your vegetable patch is established, you must take good care of it to help it thrive. The more love you give, the more vegetables you will get in return, so it’s essential to be attentive and diligent in caring for your crops. 11) Pesky Pests Sadly, it is pretty much impossible to avoid pests in a vegetable patch. That said, we don’t advise you to douse your plot with pesticides and chemicals. 12) Fertilise Take care not to over-fertilise your vegetable patch. We recommend opting for a good organic fertiliser (something like comfrey tea) and use appropriately according to the instructions. “Allocating a small area to the less invasive comfrey ‘Bocking 14’ allows you to harvest your own comfrey tea,” says Peter. References 1. Smiling Gardener. (2015, August 29). Biointensive planting – The Triangle Method
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10 Plants For Narrow Garden Borders With Ideas From Flo Headlam
IN THIS GUIDE Up Against The Fence Best Plants For Small & Narrow Borders 1) Espalier Training Trees 2) Furnish With Ferns 3) Flower Power 4) Libertia Preempt Problems Shallow Soil Rainshadow Avoid Spreading Plants Nice Things Come In Small Packages Regardless of the size of your garden, most gardeners have to deal with small or narrow borders. If you have a particularly small garden, this problem can feel like a particularly big challenge. Trying to find the best plants to fit in these tricky spaces is hard enough, and the last thing you want to do is overstuff that space and create confusion. As with any garden, big or small, the goal is to create harmony and allow the plants you have chosen to complement each other. “It might seem counterintuitive, but when you have a small space, you can put big plants in it to make it feel more luxurious,” says Flo Headlam, Garden Designer & TV Presenter. “Growing things in containers is also very useful in small spaces because you can move them around. “You could use pots of a similar size to bookend paths or a doorway, or you can use lots of different-sized pots for a collection.” We understand that small garden spaces might make you feel like your options are limited but, with a little planning, creativity, and boldness, you can make those little spaces become one of the big focal points of your garden. Up Against The Fence There are many reasons why we may find ourselves with small and narrow borders. Often it’s because the border is next to a path, alongside your garage, close to the front of the house or right up against a fence. That said, regardless of the reason, the solutions for planting are predominantly the same. Small and narrow garden borders can be tricky customers! It can be very tempting to just fill the space with as many pretty flowers and shrubs as possible, and be done with it. As with all gardening, though, patience is a virtue, and jumbling plants together is never a fix. That’s why we’ve put together a list of the best plants to make your small and narrow borders not only thrive, but make a real statement. Dwarf Lavender Now that you’ve sussed out any difficulties you might be up against when it comes to planting in small and narrow borders, the next step is to find the plants that will not only grow well but thrive and accentuate the space. We’ve put together a list of our favourite plants and top tips to help you perfect even the smallest or narrowest of borders. Best Plants For Small & Narrow Borders “I think it is useful in small places to grow vertically,” says Flo. “What this also does is forces your eye upwards. The space will then feel bigger because you’re looking up at the sky.” So, if your borders are next to a wall or fence, then growing vertically is the place to start. Do bear in mind, however, that you still need to choose plants that won’t grow out of hand and encroach on the limited space that you have. 1) Espalier Training Trees Not only are espalier trained trees a great way to save space thanks to their propensity to grow vertically, flat against the wall but, once established, they can also reward you with beautiful foliage, flowers and fruit. If your tricky border is next to a wall or a fence then training trees upwards that produce pears, peaches, apples and apricots are the perfect solutions. They are low maintenance, and, with the help of wires or trellises, will flourish and add a new dimension to your garden. 2) Furnish With Ferns Ferns are a great way to add texture and structure. Sometimes it’s best to keep things simple – adding some lush greenery can be all it takes to really spice up that little space. With little effort, you can breathe life into your narrow border and give it a new lease of life. An assortment of ferns is ideal for small, damp and shady spots. They are beautiful foliage plants that can not only bring texture and structure to borders but also bring softness. With their varying shapes and sizes, it’s straightforward to find a suitable fern that will give your small or narrow border a real presence. 3) Flower Power Mixing some flowers into your small and narrow border will complete the look and bring a splash of colour to the area. In this case, less is definitely more, so only choose one or two flowering plants to make sure it doesn’t look too busy. Choosing the right flowers can have a game-changing impact on your border and bring it up to the next level. Try to choose flowering plants that will complement the shrubs and ferns you have selected, and this will give your borders a nice, well-rounded finish. “Bulbs work well in narrow borders because they have a slender shape and a succession can be chosen for interest throughout the year, beginning with snowdrops, then daffodils, tulips, Camassia, Gladioli, autumn crocus and nerines,” shares Master Horticulturist Peter Lickorish. “However, lots of these plants have a very similar outline, so to add interest, the look can be softened with plants that are still slender, but more rounded in shape. “French lavender is a good choice, but it can be cut harder back in spring than English lavender if it outgrows its welcome.” Here are some more of our favourites: Red Hot Poker Sedum Catmint Penstemon Foxgloves Cranesbill Nerine 4) Libertia Libertia is an elegant, clump-forming perennial which grows with grass-like foliage and produces beautiful sprays of white or blue flowers. This makes it perfectly suited for small garden borders. We recommend planting in a sunny spot in moist, well-drained soil. Growing up to 1m in height, Libertia is easy to care for and just needs a little pruning by removing flower stalks after flowering. Preempt Problems The first thing you need to consider is what challenges your little border poses. As mentioned, most small and narrow borders are designed that way because they’re aligned with a larger structure such as a wall, fence or paved path. For this reason, it’s essential to preempt problems before you start planting. Shallow Soil It’s common for smaller borders to have shallower soil and, if close to paths or the front of the house, high content of rubble and general debris. Before you begin the process of introducing plants, you must remove anything that will disrupt the growth of your plants and then add an extra layer of topsoil. Rainshadow A less open bed may be prone to what’s known as “rainshadow” meaning that, due to the borders close proximity to a wall or a fence, the soil is likely to be much drier. If this is a factor for your border, we recommend opting for plants that tolerate drier conditions. Most wall or fence-side borders will also benefit from having organic matter dug in and, once your chosen plants are established, you can apply mulch. Avoid Spreading Plants This may seem to go without saying, but it’s particularly important if your border is next to your garden path. Not only will the plants that grow broadly and spread out dominate the border, but they will quickly take over the path as well. So, naturally, we recommend choosing plants that won’t compromise the space for other plants or the access to your house. Nice Things Come In Small Packages Hopefully, you’re now feeling fully equipped with all the information you need to create small and narrow garden borders which display balance and cohesion. It may seem a bit daunting, and you may worry about overcrowding, but all you need to do is just take your time and add your plants one by one. Remember, you can always plant more if required. With patience and care you will soon realise that these tricky little spots are not nearly as challenging as you thought and you can prove once and for all that nice things really do come in small packages!
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Starting Your Own Compost Bin At Home - Make Sure You Get Your C:N Ratio Right
IN THIS GUIDE Composting Methods The Carbon:Nitrogen Ratio Turning & Aeration Wetness What Can You Put In A Compost Bin? How To Keep Your Compost Bin From Smelling Pests Earthworms Resolving Bad Smells Sun Or Shade? References You don’t really ‘use’ a compost bin you may think; all you do is throw clippings, vegetable refuse, and such in it, and that’s that…except that it isn’t. In order to make high-quality compost without running into trouble, you really have to ‘use’ your compost bin, and use it effectively. This means taking several measures. Composting Methods To begin with, two methods can be used to make compost: the Batch Method and the As-You-Go Method. Here’s how they work: The Batch Method is a two-step method such that first you prepare the pile by putting in the materials and contents that are to be composted, and then you ‘cook’ the whole thing as a batch. In contrast, As-You-Go is an iterative method in which adding composting materials and the ‘cooking’ occur without discrete steps as a single ongoing process. Compost bins are ideally suited to As-You-Go Style composting while compost tumblers are better for the Batch Method. As this is an instructional article about making compost in bins, our primary focus shall be on the As-You-Go Method. The Carbon:Nitrogen Ratio Effective usage of your compost bin requires that you get the Carbon:Nitrogen – C:N – Ratio right. For a compost bin the ideal C:N ratio is from 25:1 to 35:1.1 The C:N ratio is colloquially but incorrectly also called the ‘Brown-Green Mix.’ Be mindful that C:N and Brown-Green do not have a direct correspondence: ‘Green’ compost content has a fairly narrow range of C:N ratios between 10:1 and 30:1. ‘Brown’ content’s C:N ratio and, therefore, carbon content, varies widely. It ranges from 30:1 to 800:1!2 Also, where composting is concerned, ‘Green’ content includes that which is green in colour; however, material like tea leaves, coffee grounds, and manure are considered ‘Greens’ because of their C:N ratios. Two Simple Rules You can hit the desired C:N ratio by following two simple rules: Strive for a Brown/Green materials 70/30 mix: that is just over two parts Brown to every one Green.3 Be careful with woody and wood-derived materials; use these in very low quantities because they have an extremely high proportion of Carbon to Nitrogen. “I find if woody twigs don’t compost the first time round, I just add them back into the current compost pile to contribute to next year’s compost,” shares Master Horticulturist Roy Nicol. Turning & Aeration Turning and Aeration are crucial to making high-quality compost. The reason to turn and aerate a compost pile is that if it just sits then the material near the top will decompose at a faster rate while the material that is at the bottom, and which is being compressed by the pile’s weight, will decompose at a slower rate. Organic materials need air to decompose but materials that are in the middle of the pile or compressed at the bottom would be starved of air. Turning the compost pile means that there is no bottom layer and no top layer, and this agitation ‘fluffs up’ compressed materials and opens up air channels in them. Vigorous turning will also bring another benefit; it will tear and break up scraps and pieces. Cross-section of a compost bin that has not been turned Use A Handheld Aerator You will need to turn and mix up, and thus aerate, your compost pile by using a handheld aerator. Try to choose one that is right for you and also for your compost bin. If you want to be frugal and go low-tech, do as your grandpa did and use a pitchfork. Aerate around once a month. Also, do so when you add a fair quantity of material to your As-You-Go pile in the bin. You can insert your aerator through the built-in holes at the top and/or the sides of your bin. However, you probably will be more comfortable and will be able to do a better job of turning and mixing the compost if you open the lid and use the aerator through this (much) larger opening. “A common composting system has two or three compost bins (or bays in larger gardens,” shares Roy. “Once full, the compost is turned from one bin into another and a new pile started in the first bin. “The part-processed compost in the second bin has then been aerated and will decompose further, often being ready to use in 2-3 months.” Wetness The moisture content of the compost pile is another key to effective decomposition. The pile should remain damp and should never be allowed to dry out because if it does, ‘cooking’ will slow down and the pile will also decompose (more) unevenly. If, when turning the pile, you observe that it is dry, conservatively water it all over as you turn it such that it is well moistened and damp but not wet. What Can You Put In A Compost Bin? A bucket to collect and transport organic waste can be useful The short answer: anything organic, because it will decompose. “Compost as much garden and kitchen waste as possible,” says Garden Blogger Hannah Reid “There’s nothing more satisfying than making your own compost from this afterwards.” The best things to put in a bin are garden clippings and cuttings, vegetable and fruit waste, grass clippings, fresh leaves, dry leaves, mulch, kelp and other seaweed, hay, and straw. Try to chop up or dice big cuttings otherwise they will not decompose as rapidly as you would like. “As leaves normally become available in large quantities in the autumn, it’s best not to add these as a thick layer to the compost heap, as they decompose anaerobically, which is slower than the aerobic composting process,” says Roy. “Instead, leaves can be added to a separate bin made from chicken wire and after a year will have decomposed into a fantastic dark and friable material called leaf mould.” Household Waste In addition, you can put carefully-selected leftover food scraps, twigs, newspapers, rough (not coated or shiny) cardboard, manure, sawdust, wood chips, tea leaves, coffee grounds, old cotton cloth, eggshells, and peat moss. Do not add rice or grains, cooked or uncooked, or meat or dairy products. Rice and grains will bring rodents to your compost bin while meat and dairy will attract flies and may well putrefy instead of aerobically decomposing. Newspapers and cotton cloth should be torn into small pieces and soaked or wetted before being added to the bin to promote decomposition. All wood-based and wood-derived materials have a very high C:N ratio – 400:1 and higher – so be conservative when including such materials. Err on the side of too little of these than too much, otherwise the compost pile will remain dry, won’t heat up, and will decompose very slowly and very unevenly. Layering Materials How you arrange or layer these materials initially is of some importance. Put a layer of brown materials at the bottom followed by green materials and build the layers, spreading the additions as you go. Of course, when you turn and churn the pile, everything will get mixed but ‘layering’ is the way to start off on the right foot. Weeds Weeds are organic plant-based material but if you are new to composting or simply don’t have time for fussing, do not put any weeds in your compost bin. Weeds enjoy warm and rich composting materials so much that they will take root and grow in your compost pile! On top of that, if weeds go to seed as your compost ‘cooks,’ you could end up with weed seeds in your compost – which means that your nice new compost would sprout weeds. “I also avoid adding garden plants which self-seed freely such as Valerian (Valeriana officinalis), Forget-Me-Not (Myosotis sylvatica), Lady’s Mantle (Alchemilla mollis) or Granny’s Bonnet (Aquilegia vulgaris),” adds Roy. “Different gardeners have different tolerances for these plants popping up around the garden though!’ The way to make sure that weeds do not germinate and turn into compost is to ‘pre-bake’ them, or to use the Batch Composting method, turn the pile very frequently, and even monitor the temperature at its centre to be sure it does not drop below 65°C. And for all that, you should not put pernicious weeds such as Bindweed, Ground Elder, Mare’s Tail or other perennial weeds with strong roots such as Dandelions or Nettles in your compost pile at all. Manure Fresh manure from herbivores such as horses, cattle, sheep, goats and rabbits can be added to the compost bin in quantities in proportion to the size of the pile. This material acts as an accelerant to the composting process due to its microbial content and increases the biodiversity of the compost pile. The high nitrogen content means it cannot be used as mulch immediately as it would burn green foliage. Care should be taken if manure has a high proportion of slowly decomposing ‘brown’ bedding such as sawdust or paper pellets and only added in thin layers. What To Put In A Compost Bin When Starting “If you have a compost bin, you shouldn’t have to buy compost,” shares Edible Bristol’s Sara Venn. “There’s always something you can find around you that you can add to it, so you really should consider starting your own.” A very good mix to start off a compost bin would comprise of vegetable and fruit refuse, grass clippings, tea leaves and coffee grounds, chopped or torn-up dried leaves, wetted old cotton cloth or some shredded and wetted newspapers. While these limited materials in the right proportions make for a very good Brown-Green mix, they are also very readily accessible. How To Keep Your Compost Bin From Smelling To keep your compost bin from smelling, first, you need to make sure that the pile will decompose evenly and aerobically, and not unevenly or anaerobically. To achieve this rather important end, the pile needs to have air circulating within it – even right at the very bottom. Turning and aerating the pile with an aerator will ensure that there is no ‘bottom layer’ as such because the pile gets turned and churned. It also ensures that all the bits and pieces get separated which means that air channels open up throughout the pile, increasing airflow. Second, your pile’s Carbon:Nitrogen balance should not tip over too far towards Nitrogen which can and does happen when too much ‘Green’ and too little ‘Brown’ is added.4 Be sure that you keep adding a sufficient amount of ‘Browns’ to balance whatever ‘Greens’ you add. Finally, some materials are smelly to begin with and are also more likely to putrefy and emit foul odours. These include meat and dairy products and, yes, manures. You can exclude such materials without any negative impacts on your compost pile. Pests Grubs Rose chafer larvae in a compost pile – yuk! First, think it over. There are grubs, and then there are grubs. Many of them, like earthworms and microbes, are actually beneficial to your compost pile without ever being harmful, even after you use the compost in your garden. Grubs burrow and tunnel through the pile thereby creating air-channels and doing some of the aeration for you; futhermore, like microbes, many grubs feed on organic materials and decompose them. Now if you have identified pernicious grubs such as vine weevils that may harm your garden, if your pile is simply infested with grubs, or if it has maggots, then you would need to get rid of them. Nematodes Buy or order a supply of Beneficial Nematodes, these are available at garden centres and online sellers. Follow the instructions and introduce the Nematodes into your compost pile. Goodbye, grubs. Birds You could also try to put a bird feeder very close to your compost pile. The birds that you attract may go on to feed on the grubs in your pile! Flies To begin with, keep the lid tightly closed. If your compost bin is a jerry-rigged affair and has no lid then cut out the appropriate size of heavy-duty but fine wire mesh such that you can bend the mesh over the rim of the bin and secure it. You will also need to cover the side air vents with a mesh netting. Flies are drawn to food waste, therefore push all food waste (and whatever else may attract flies) to the middle of the bin. Do not leave such materials at or near the surface. If you are developing a serious problem with flies, eliminate food waste altogether. Additionally, after turning the pile put a thin layer of grass clippings on top; this will not draw any flies. Rat-Proofing As the first step, you can ‘rat proof’ your bin by simple dint of using an all-solid bin made of hard materials and always keep the lid tightly closed such that it cannot be dislodged by these clever and persistent rodents. Cover up any side vents with rat-proof wire netting. You can ‘rat proof’ your bin’s interior by not adding any materials that would attract rats. These include leftover food scraps, meat, dairy, and eggshells – and you can live without these in your compost pile so nothing’s lost. To play it safe, keep the pile very much on the damp side. Rats will take to a dry’ish compost pile but not to a damp one. Put the bin on a concrete slab in an open, unsheltered area that does not provide any cover. Install an 11-watt daylight LED near the bin and keep it on from evening to dawn. You may also consider doing what our ancestors used to do in mediaeval times: keep a good ‘mouser.’ If you take all these measures you should never have any rats in or near your compost bin. Earthworms You don’t need to put earthworms in your bin, but you certainly may. If you want to put worms in your compost bin, put in red wriggles. They are perfectly adapted to the conditions of a compost bin and can be seen as “Mother Nature’s Composter”. As for earthworms, they are more sensitive to the highly variable conditions of a compost bin. Actually, if your compost pile offers conditions favourable to earthworms then they will make their way to it themselves but you can give it a shot and dump in some earthworms and see what happens. If they thrive in your compost bin you’ll have lucked out twice over. First, earthworms, like grubs, burrow and tunnel through the compost pile. In so doing they too create air channels inside the compost pile, aerating it.5 Second, earthworms consume much of the materials in the pile. What they excrete, called ‘castings,’ is rich in micronutrients and nitrogen, and is one of the bases for high-quality compost.6 Composting with the aid of worms is known as ‘vermicomposting.’ Resolving Bad Smells Compost bins may smell a wee bit. Depending on what has gone into a Batch Style compost heap, it can smell a little initially. And depending on what you may add to an As-You-Go Style compost pile it too may smell a bit. Then again, just as often a well-maintained compost bin will give off a warm, musty, earthy odour that may even be quite pleasant. Well-tumbled compost in properly-used and aerated bins should not smell particularly bad at all. But sometimes compost bins do smell bad, and when this happens it signifies that something has gone wrong. One reason behind it could be that the compost pile, instead of decomposing aerobically, is putrefying – decomposing anaerobically, i.e. without oxygen which points to inadequate aeration. Another reason behind it, especially if the bad smell is like ammonia, is a seriously out-of-whack Carbon:Nitrogen ratio skewed in favour of Nitrogen. And if you’ve been naughty and went and threw leftover meat or dairy into your bin, well… Sun Or Shade? As a general rule, you should place your bin in the sun, but in practice it depends on a couple of factors. Direct sun and the resultant heat speed up the process of decomposition, and they aid in ‘cooking’ the pile so this major benefit is a compelling reason for siting your bin in the sun. Except that direct sun and high heat also dry a compost pile – it needs to be damp. Thus, direct sun and high heat also eventually slow down the process of decomposing by drying out the pile! You can put your bin in the sun and easily work around this drawback by monitoring the pile for dryness and watering it regularly. On the other hand, if you are specifically doing vermicomposting, then you will need to avoid hot sun and keep your compost bin in mostly shade because typically worms cannot tolerate high heat. Like many things in life, opt for a happy medium and try to locate your compost bin where it gets a good amount of sun in the morning and late afternoon but not the hot midday sun. For more composting guidance see also: how to make a home compost heap. References 1. Akratos, C. S., Tekerlekopoulou, A. G., Vasiliadou, I. A., & Vayenas, D. V. (2017). Cocomposting of olive mill waste for the production of soil amendments. In Elsevier eBooks (pp. 161–182). https://doi.org/10.1016/b978-0-12-805314-0.00008-x 2. Browning, S. (n.d.). Garden Compost. Retrieved June 26, 2023, from https://extensionpublications.unl.edu/assets/html/g2222/build/g2222.htm 3. Composting At Home | US EPA. (2023, June 14). US EPA. Retrieved June 23, 2023, from https://www.epa.gov/recycle/composting-home 4. Troubleshooting Your Compost Pile. (n.d.). LSU Ag-Center. Retrieved March 20, 2023, from https://www.lsuagcenter.com/NR/rdonlyres/BCC96EDA-75F7-4F08-9C81-1ADA8C167D49/2182/pub2517compost2.pdf 5. Discovering Earthworms Online. (2021, June 17). Earthworm Society of Britain. Retrieved March 20, 2023, from https://www.earthwormsoc.org.uk/DiscoveringEarthwormsBlog 6. All You Need to Know About Earthworm Castings. (n.d.). Pennington. Retrieved March 20, 2023, from https://www.pennington.com/all-products/fertilizer/resources/earthworm-castings-all-the-goodness-without-the-goo
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These 15 Signature Oriental Plants Inspire Garden Serenity And Tranquility
IN THIS GUIDE What Actually Is A Japanese Garden? Best Plants For A Japanese Garden 1) Bamboo 2) Ornamental Cherry Trees 3) Japanese Maple Bonsai 4) Lotus 5) Wisteria 6) Azalea 7) Camellia 8) Japanese Boxwood 9) Hakone Grass 10) Iris 11) Hydrangea 12) Japanese Quince 13) Mondo Grass 14) Peonies 15) Lilies Journey To A Japanese Garden References If you want your garden to exude peace and tranquillity then a Japanese garden could be just the ticket. Japanese gardens are said to bring serenity and the simple beauty of nature into our busy and cluttered lives. They give the illusion of natural landscapes but are actually controlled by the gardener, meaning that though they are inspired by nature they are not naturally grown. Japanese gardens harness the peace and tranquillity of nature The art of Japanese gardens dates back to 1,300 years ago – however, they have become extremely popular in the west over the last century.1 Japanese gardens were heavily influenced by the country’s Shinto religion and Chinese philosophies where ideas about leading peaceful, harmonic lives and being at one with nature are at the core.2 When we think of Japanese gardens we often think of the expansive gardens filled with lakes and pagodas, blossom trees and bridges and you may be wondering how on earth you will be able to recreate this in your own garden. But fear not, choosing the right plants means that even the most modest garden can successfully harness the Japanese theme. What Actually Is A Japanese Garden? Japanese gardens are traditional gardens defined by Japanese philosophies and aesthetics, there should be absolutely no artificial plants and the main focus should be to showcase the landscape’s natural beauty. Including aged and worn materials will also give the appearance of an ancient and distant landscape and will allude to the vulnerability and frailty of life and that time is always marching forwards with us or without us. Japanese gardens are minimalist and should inspire reflection and meditation. They can also include a number of elements including water, rocks and sand, vegetation, paths, islands and bridges. Japanese garden designers also work using the concept of “borrowed scenery”, which means they use the existing scenery such as a mountain or a castle to inspire and accentuate the garden they are creating.3 In modern times skyscrapers are instead used as borrowed scenery to great effect. Choosing the right plants that would best suit a Japanese-themed garden can be tricky so we’ve put together a list of a few of our favourites to get you started. “To build a small-scale Japanese garden, you can create free-flowing contours in the soil, with small islands,” shares Master Horticulturist Peter Lickorish. “Believe me – this can be done in a surprisingly small space. The lower areas could be lined and filled with water, or use a combination of rocks, gravel and moss, plus some of the plants mentioned above on higher areas. “A quick way to evoke a Japanese style is moss. Interesting species can be bought or, with permission, collected, to build up sculpted contours, providing the area is reasonably shaded.” Best Plants For A Japanese Garden Now that you’ve decided that a Japanese garden is for you it’s time to start getting to grips with the plants you might want to choose. Obviously there are thousands to choose from but we’ve narrowed these down to our best picks for UK gardens. 1) Bamboo BOTANICAL NAME: Phyllostachys aurea PLANT TYPE: PERENNIAL HARDINESS RATING: H5 PREFERRED LOCATION: sheltered SOIL REQUIREMENTS: LOAM-BASED; moist but WELL-DRAINED Topping our list is, of course, bamboo, the plant perhaps most instantly associated with Japan and its culture. Growing throughout Japan, bamboo is used for everything, including chopsticks, toilet paper, chairs, fans and even entire houses. Bamboo is extremely easy to grow but do keep in mind that some varieties can grow up to 70ft in height. Best planted in spring, bamboo requires moist but well-drained soil in a sunny spot where they are sheltered from the wind. Bamboo should be watered regularly during dry spells and receive a high-nitrogen feed in spring and a well-balanced fertiliser during the growing season up to late August. Aside from that they require very little care and will give your garden an instant Japanese aesthetic. 2) Ornamental Cherry Trees BOTANICAL NAME: Prunus avium PLANT TYPE: TREE HARDINESS RATING: H6 PREFERRED LOCATION: FULL SUN SOIL REQUIREMENTS: ANY If you have the space for it then including one or more ornamental cherry trees will immediately accentuate your Japanese theme. Japan is renowned for its beautiful, pink blossoming cherry trees – or sakura – and there are even dedicated festivals to celebrate them. Different species or cultivars can be selected for pink blossom, such as Prunus ‘Kanzan’. Ornamental cherry trees should be planted in full sun and in well-draining soil and somewhere sheltered from strong wind. They will do well in most soil types and should be planted in early autumn. Once planted you should water your tree well and often until it is fully established. Moisture at their formative stage is crucial. Applying fertiliser often can also reduce stress on the tree which can encourage pests and disease. Growing to up to 30 ft, these gorgeous trees can live from 25-50 years and if well cared for, will reward you with their beautiful blossoms year after year. For a similar effect in miniature, Prunus incisa ‘Kojo-no-Mai’ has cherry blossoms on a shrub which tops out at 2.5m. 3) Japanese Maple Bonsai BOTANICAL NAME: Acer palmatum PLANT TYPE: TREE HARDINESS RATING: H6 PREFERRED LOCATION: SHELTERED SOIL REQUIREMENTS: SLIGHTLY ACIDIC If you have a more modest-sized garden then opting for bonsai trees is a great way to accentuate the Japanese theme without using much space. Bonsai is the art of growing and cultivating artificially dwarfed trees in containers that mimic the shape and scale of a full-sized tree. Japanese maple bonsai should be kept in a sunny, airy spot although they should be moved to a shadier spot during the midday heat. Shelter from drying winds is really important too. You should be watering the container every other dry day and, in particularly hot weather, daily or more frequently. You can prune and trim shoots and twigs all year round but wait until autumn to prune the stronger branches so you can avoid bleeding. These cute mini-plants will need repotting every two years, and with love and care, they will reward you with clusters of various coloured flowers in May and June. 4) Lotus BOTANICAL NAME: Nelumbo nucifera PLANT TYPE: AQUATIC HARDINESS RATING: H1C PREFERRED LOCATION: FULL SUN; SHELTERED SOIL REQUIREMENTS: SHALLOW WATER If you have included a pond in your garden to incorporate the element of water then the lovely lotus is a must-have plant. These sun-loving, dramatic plants adore the sun and prefer to be bathed in it for at least 5-6 hours. Lotus plants are fairly easy to care for but do be aware that lotus tubers will not tolerate freezing and will not survive. We recommend you dig the lotus out and overwinter it somewhere inside, watering it to prevent it from drying out completely. Keeping it in a large aquatic crate and in water no deeper than 60cm will make it easier to perform the annual move to shelter. These aquatic beauties will really bring a taste of the exotic to your garden and will make a perfect centrepiece for your Japanese theme. 5) Wisteria BOTANICAL NAME: Wisteria FLORIBUNDA PLANT TYPE: CLIMBER HARDINESS RATING: H6 PREFERRED LOCATION: SHELTERED SOIL REQUIREMENTS: ANY This is a great option for any sized garden because the wisteria can simply climb up your house. It’s also perfect for training up pergolas and other strong, wooden structures. Wisteria is effortlessly beautiful but do be aware that it can take five years or more to establish itself. However, they are absolutely worth the wait thanks to their pendulous clusters of lilac, white or bluish flowers which they produce in late spring and early summer. Wisteria needs fertile, well-drained soil and should, ideally, be planted in a west or south-facing direction. If you would like to learn more about wonderful wisteria then why not check out our wisteria guide. 6) Azalea BOTANICAL NAME: Azalea PLANT TYPE: SHRUB HARDINESS RATING: H4-6 PREFERRED LOCATION: SHELTERED POSITION, PARTIAL SHADE SOIL REQUIREMENTS: ACIDIC; LOAM-BASED 7) Camellia BOTANICAL NAME: Camellia japonica PLANT TYPE: SHRUB HARDINESS RATING: H5 PREFERRED LOCATION: SHADED; SHELTERED SOIL REQUIREMENTS: SLIGHTLY ACIDIC 8) Japanese Boxwood BOTANICAL NAME: Buxus microphylla var. japonica PLANT TYPE: SHRUB HARDINESS RATING: H6 PREFERRED LOCATION: ANY SOIL REQUIREMENTS: ANY 9) Hakone Grass BOTANICAL NAME: Hakonechloa macra PLANT TYPE: GRASS HARDINESS RATING: H7 PREFERRED LOCATION: ANY SOIL REQUIREMENTS: ANY 10) Iris BOTANICAL NAME: Iris germanica PLANT TYPE: PERENNIAL HARDINESS RATING: H6 PREFERRED LOCATION: FULL SUN SOIL REQUIREMENTS: SLIGHTLY ALKALINE; WELL-DRAINED 11) Hydrangea BOTANICAL NAME: Hydrangea macrophylla PLANT TYPE: SHRUB HARDINESS RATING: H5 PREFERRED LOCATION: ANY SOIL REQUIREMENTS: SLIGHTLY ACIDIC 12) Japanese Quince BOTANICAL NAME: Chaenomeles speciosa PLANT TYPE: SHRUB HARDINESS RATING: H6 PREFERRED LOCATION: ANY POSITION WITH SOME SUN SOIL REQUIREMENTS: ANY 13) Mondo Grass BOTANICAL NAME: Ophiopogon planiscapus ‘Black Beard’ PLANT TYPE: PERENNIAL HARDINESS RATING: H5 PREFERRED LOCATION: ANY SOIL REQUIREMENTS: SLIGHTLY ACIDIC 14) Peonies BOTANICAL NAME: Paeonia lactiflora PLANT TYPE: PERENNIAL HARDINESS RATING: H6 PREFERRED LOCATION: SHELTERED, SOME SUN SOIL REQUIREMENTS: ANY 15) Lilies BOTANICAL NAME: LILIUM PLANT TYPE: BULB HARDINESS RATING: H6 PREFERRED LOCATION: FULL SUN; SHELTERED SOIL REQUIREMENTS: SLIGHTLY ACIDIC Journey To A Japanese Garden Hopefully you now feel ready to begin your journey to a Japanese garden. There are so many wonderful plants to choose from and don’t forget to incorporate some of the Japanese elements like sand, water, distressed wood, and so on. A Japanese garden will demonstrate simple beauty and grace and will be the perfect place to enjoy some much-needed calmness in the midst of the hectic lives we all seem to lead these days. We wish you luck on transforming your garden into a Japanese haven, and we hope you enjoy the peace and tranquillity it will surely provide. References 1. Hiromasa, A. (n.d.). Japanese Gardens – Changes In Style. Niponica. Retrieved March 22, 2023, from https://web-japan.org/niponica/niponica26/en/feature/feature02.html 2. Habib, F., Nahibi, S., & Majedi, H. (2012, August 1). Japanese Garden as a Physical Symbol of Japanese Culture. International Journal of Architecture and Urban Development. Retrieved March 22, 2023, from https://ijaud.srbiau.ac.ir/article_2252_b51091b0f9b504d92412c40a8efe467a.pdf 3. Borrowed Scenery: shakkei. (n.d.). The Japanese Garden. Retrieved March 22, 2023, from https://learn.bowdoin.edu/japanesegardens/elements/borrowed/borrowed.html
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These 52 Vivid Garden Plants With Purple Flowers Pack A Visual Punch
IN THIS GUIDE 1) Clematis 2) Butterfly Bush 3) Bellflower 4) Lavender 5) Wisteria 6) Catmint 7) Ornamental Onion 8) Sage 9) Giant Hyssop 10) Monk’s Hood 11) Rhododendron 12) Sweet Pea 13) Scabious 14) Petunia 15) Pansy 16) Morning Glory 17) Michaelmas Daisy 18) Lupin 19) Foxglove 20) Fuchsia 21) Lilac 22) Columbine 23) Crocus 24) Calla Lily 25) Hyacinth 26) Winter Windflower 27) Lily Of The Nile 28) Dendrobium Orchid 29) Bearded Iris 30) Verbena 31) Rosemary 32) Oregano 33) Chives 34) Golden Dewdrop 35) Caryopteris 36) Heather 37) Bougainvillea 38) Abelia 39) Hydrangea 40) Weigela 41) Bear’s Breeches 42) Hardy Geranium 43) Speedwell 44) Phlox 45) Chrysanthemum 46) Daylily 47) Bergenia 48) Meadow Rue 49) Hyacinth Bean 50) Chilean Potato Tree 51) Delphinium 52) Aubrieta Why Choose Plants With Purple Flowers? A Garden Of Purple Is Always In Bloom Historically, the colour purple was associated with wealth and royalty, largely because of how expensive and rare the dye was that was used to produce it. Purple exudes luxury, power and vitality and using this colour in your garden can really pack a visual punch. With so many varying shades to choose from, purple can set a distinct mood within your garden, whether it’s peaceful and tranquil, lavish and luxurious, or brilliant and bold. Purple flowers are a surefire way to make a statement and accentuate the aesthetics of your outdoor spaces. So if you are eager to introduce some purple passion into your garden but you’re not sure where to start, we’ve put together some inspiration to help you choose the perfect purple flowers for you. I’ve picked out some of our favourites to help you get started. 1) Clematis PLANT TYPE: CLIMBER HARDINESS RATING: H5/H6 FLOWERING MONTHS: SUMMER / AUTUMN NOTABLE PURPLE VARIETIES: VITICELLA Though clematis comes in a wide range of colours, there is an abundance of purple flowering varieties to choose from. This popular purple beauty is easy to grow and, if selected carefully, it is possible to have flowers all year round. Best planted in spring or early-to mid-autumn, this plant thrives in sunlight or partial shade. Keep in mind that clematis is a very thirsty plant and will not do well in dry soil but, when well-watered, you will be rewarded with gorgeous blooms in shades from soft mauve to deep, rich purples. 2) Butterfly Bush BOTANICAL NAME: BUDDLEJA PLANT TYPE: SHRUB HARDINESS RATING: H6 FLOWERING MONTHS: SUMMER / AUTUMN NOTABLE PURPLE VARIETIES: ‘BLACK KNIGHT’, ‘LOCHINCH’, ‘DARTMOOR’ AWARD OF GARDEN MERIT Also known as butterfly bushes, buddlejas bear beautiful, conical blooms that butterflies and other pollinators find very attractive. Coming in a variety of purple shades, this plant is easy to grow and maintain, and will thrive in almost any situation. That said, they will attract more butterflies and bees if they are planted in a sunny spot in well-drained soil. We recommend planting in spring or autumn and that you cut them back hard from March to May, as cutting back late promotes late flowering. 3) Bellflower BOTANICAL NAME: CAMPANULA PLANT TYPE: HERBACEOUS PERENNIAL HARDINESS RATING: H7 FLOWERING MONTHS: SUMMER NOTABLE PURPLE VARIETIES: ‘PERSICIFOLIA’ This charming plant will tolerate shade but certainly prefers to be in full sun and the more sun received the more flowers there will be. Sow your seeds in spring in well-drained soil and when watering, make sure the soil is moist but never overly soggy. Bellflowers bloom in summer three or four weeks and sometimes longer and add a layer of joy and whimsy to any garden. 4) Lavender BOTANICAL NAME: LAVANDULA PLANT TYPE: SHRUB HARDINESS RATING: H5 FLOWERING MONTHS: SUMMER NOTABLE PURPLE VARIETIES: ENGLISH Lavender has become hugely popular among gardeners, mostly thanks to it’s gorgeous and relaxing fragrance, its heavenly purple shades and the fact that it is darn easy to grow! Not only is lavender popular among gardeners, but bees also adore it. Lavender flowers during the midsummer gap when there is little forage and bees are at their hungriest. Attracting these hungry pollinators to your garden will help your garden to produce more plants and flowers. Lavender enjoys full sun and well-drained soil and should be cut back after flowering to avoid the stems becoming woody. You only need to water them sparingly and apart from that pretty much take care of themselves and will fill your garden with splashes of purple and their signature scent. 5) Wisteria PLANT TYPE: CLIMBER HARDINESS RATING: H6 FLOWERING MONTHS: SPRING / SUMMER NOTABLE PURPLE VARIETIES: CHINESE Wisteria is effortlessly beautiful and is famous for the pendulous lilac blooms that you often see climbing the walls of a country cottage or draping itself over a pergola. Wisteria demands patience as it can take five years or more to establish itself and begin flowering, but its purple flowers are certainly worth the wait. This vigorous climbing shrub should be planted between October and April in full sun on a south or west-facing wall or structure. Plant in fertile, well-drained soil and water frequently, especially in dry spells as wisteria can quickly dry out. Though it may take several years for you to enjoy your wisteria in all its glory, this powerful, purple plant is a real statement and will be the envy of all your friends and neighbours. 6) Catmint BOTANICAL NAME: Nepeta cataria PLANT TYPE: HERBACEOUS PERENNIAL HARDINESS RATING: H7 FLOWERING MONTHS: SUMMER / AUTUMN This tough-as-nails purple perennial blooms for months and requires very little attention. This is an ideal purple plant for novice gardeners as it is heat and drought tolerant, is robust and rarely needs watering. Although it can be grown from seed, we recommend planting nursery-grown catmint in full sun anytime from spring to early autumn. Catmint has a lovely, minty, aromatic fragrance and repels deer and rabbits. Despite its name, it is not attractive to cats, but it is incredibly seductive to bees, butterflies and other pollinators. 7) Ornamental Onion BOTANICAL NAME: ALLIUM PLANT TYPE: BULB HARDINESS RATING: H6/H7 FLOWERING MONTHS: SUMMER NOTABLE PURPLE VARIETIES: ‘HOLLANDICUM’ These adorable purple puffs look like they could be out of a Dr Zeuss book. They are full of character and are an excellent addition to any garden. Alliums are super easy to grow, thrive in the sun and are drought tolerant. Best planted in mid to late autumn in well-drained soil, these adorable plants will flower throughout spring and early summer. We recommend planting them in sunny borders or weaving them throughout feathery grass. 8) Sage BOTANICAL NAME: Salvia officinalis PLANT TYPE: HERB HARDINESS RATING: H5 FLOWERING MONTHS: SUMMER NOTABLE PURPLE VARIETIES: ‘Purpurascens’ AWARD OF GARDEN MERIT 9) Giant Hyssop BOTANICAL NAME: AGASTACHE PLANT TYPE: HERBACEOUS PERENNIAL HARDINESS RATING: H6 FLOWERING MONTHS: SUMMER / AUTUMN NOTABLE PURPLE VARIETIES: ‘BLUE FORTUNE’ AWARD OF GARDEN MERIT 10) Monk’s Hood BOTANICAL NAME: Aconitum napellus PLANT TYPE: HERBACEOUS PERENNIAL HARDINESS RATING: H7 FLOWERING MONTHS: SUMMER 11) Rhododendron PLANT TYPE: SHRUB HARDINESS RATING: H6 FLOWERING MONTHS: SPRING / SUMMER NOTABLE PURPLE VARIETIES: ‘PURPLE SPLENDOUR’, ‘BLUE DANUBE’, ‘MONSIEUR MARCEL’ 12) Sweet Pea BOTANICAL NAME: Lathyrus odoratus PLANT TYPE: ANNUAL CLIMBER HARDINESS RATING: H3 FLOWERING MONTHS: SUMMER / AUTUMN NOTABLE PURPLE VARIETIES: ‘BLUE VELVET’, ‘MOONLIT NIGHT’ 13) Scabious BOTANICAL NAME: SCABIOSA PLANT TYPE: HERBACEOUS PERENNIAL HARDINESS RATING: H4 FLOWERING MONTHS: SUMMER NOTABLE PURPLE VARIETIES: ‘BUTTERFLY BLUE’, ‘FLUTTER DEEP BLUE’ 14) Petunia PLANT TYPE: ANNUAL HARDINESS RATING: H2 FLOWERING MONTHS: SUMMER / AUTUMN NOTABLE PURPLE VARIETIES: ‘PEPPY PLUM’ 15) Pansy BOTANICAL NAME: VIOLA PLANT TYPE: HERBACEOUS PERENNIAL HARDINESS RATING: H5 FLOWERING MONTHS: SPRING / SUMMER NOTABLE PURPLE VARIETIES: ‘CORNUTA’ AWARD OF GARDEN MERIT 16) Morning Glory BOTANICAL NAME: Ipomoea purpurea PLANT TYPE: ANNUAL CLIMBER HARDINESS RATING: H1C FLOWERING MONTHS: SUMMER / AUTUMN NOTABLE PURPLE VARIETIES: COMMON 17) Michaelmas Daisy BOTANICAL NAME: ASTER PLANT TYPE: HERBACEOUS PERENNIAL HARDINESS RATING: H7 FLOWERING MONTHS: SUMMER / AUTUMN NOTABLE PURPLE VARIETIES: ‘Prairie Purple’, ‘Mönch’, ‘Mel’s Blue’ 18) Lupin BOTANICAL NAME: LUPINUS PLANT TYPE: HERBACEOUS PERENNIAL HARDINESS RATING: H5 FLOWERING MONTHS: SUMMER NOTABLE PURPLE VARIETIES: ‘Masterpiece’, ‘Purple Emperor’ 19) Foxglove BOTANICAL NAME: Digitalis purpurea PLANT TYPE: ANNUAL HARDINESS RATING: H7 FLOWERING MONTHS: SUMMER NOTABLE PURPLE VARIETIES: COMMON, ‘DALMATION PURPLE’ AWARD OF GARDEN MERIT 20) Fuchsia PLANT TYPE: SHRUB HARDINESS RATING: VARIES FLOWERING MONTHS: SUMMER / AUTUMN NOTABLE PURPLE VARIETIES: ‘Deep Purple’, ‘Blue Angel’ 21) Lilac BOTANICAL NAME: Syringa vulgaris PLANT TYPE: SHRUB HARDINESS RATING: H6 FLOWERING MONTHS: SPRING / SUMMER NOTABLE PURPLE VARIETIES: COMMON, ‘SENSATION’ AWARD OF GARDEN MERIT 22) Columbine BOTANICAL NAME: AQUILEGIA PLANT TYPE: HERBACEOUS PERENNIAL HARDINESS RATING: H5-H7 FLOWERING MONTHS: SPRING / SUMMER NOTABLE PURPLE VARIETIES: ‘Hensol Harebell’, ‘Blue Barlow’ 23) Crocus PLANT TYPE: BULB HARDINESS RATING: H6 FLOWERING MONTHS: VARIES NOTABLE PURPLE VARIETIES: ‘Vanguard’, ‘Saffron’ AWARD OF GARDEN MERIT 24) Calla Lily BOTANICAL NAME: Zantedeschia PLANT TYPE: PERENNIAL HARDINESS RATING: H1C FLOWERING MONTHS: SUMMER NOTABLE PURPLE VARIETIES: ‘PICASSO’ 25) Hyacinth BOTANICAL NAME: Muscari armeniacum PLANT TYPE: BULB HARDINESS RATING: H6 FLOWERING MONTHS: SPRING NOTABLE PURPLE VARIETIES: ‘Paul Hermann’, ‘Blue Jacket’ 26) Winter Windflower BOTANICAL NAME: Anemone blanda PLANT TYPE: HERBACEOUS PERENNIAL HARDINESS RATING: H6 FLOWERING MONTHS: SPRING NOTABLE PURPLE VARIETIES: ‘BLANDA’ AWARD OF GARDEN MERIT 27) Lily Of The Nile BOTANICAL NAME: AGAPANTHUS PLANT TYPE: HERBACEOUS PERENNIAL HARDINESS RATING: H4-H6 FLOWERING MONTHS: SUMMER NOTABLE PURPLE VARIETIES: ‘Northern Star’, ‘Purple Cloud’ AWARD OF GARDEN MERIT 28) Dendrobium Orchid PLANT TYPE: HOUSEPLANT HARDINESS RATING: H1A FLOWERING MONTHS: SUMMER / AUTUMN NOTABLE PURPLE VARIETIES: ‘ENOBI PURPLE’ 29) Bearded Iris BOTANICAL NAME: Iris germanica PLANT TYPE: HERBACEOUS PERENNIAL HARDINESS RATING: H6 FLOWERING MONTHS: SPRING NOTABLE PURPLE VARIETIES: ‘Matinata’, ‘Nightfall’ 30) Verbena BOTANICAL NAME: Verbena bonariensis PLANT TYPE: HERBACEOUS PERENNIAL HARDINESS RATING: H4 FLOWERING MONTHS: SUMMER / AUTUMN NOTABLE PURPLE VARIETIES: ‘SANTOS PURPLE’ AWARD OF GARDEN MERIT 31) Rosemary BOTANICAL NAME: Salvia rosmarinus PLANT TYPE: HERB HARDINESS RATING: H4 FLOWERING MONTHS: SPRING / SUMMER 32) Oregano BOTANICAL NAME: Origanum vulgare PLANT TYPE: HERB HARDINESS RATING: H6 FLOWERING MONTHS: SUMMER / AUTUMN NOTABLE PURPLE VARIETIES: ‘Herrenhausen’, ‘Rosenkuppel’ 33) Chives BOTANICAL NAME: Allium schoenoprasum PLANT TYPE: PERENNIAL BULB HARDINESS RATING: H6 FLOWERING MONTHS: SUMMER NOTABLE PURPLE VARIETIES: ‘LAVENDER BUBBLES’ 34) Golden Dewdrop BOTANICAL NAME: Duranta erecta PLANT TYPE: SHRUB HARDINESS RATING: H2 FLOWERING MONTHS: SPRING / SUMMER 35) Caryopteris PLANT TYPE: SHRUB HARDINESS RATING: H4 FLOWERING MONTHS: SUMMER / AUTUMN NOTABLE PURPLE VARIETIES: ‘HEAVENLY BLUE’ 36) Heather BOTANICAL NAME: ERICA PLANT TYPE: SHRUB HARDINESS RATING: H7 FLOWERING MONTHS: SUMMER / AUTUMN 37) Bougainvillea PLANT TYPE: CLIMBING SHRUB HARDINESS RATING: H2 FLOWERING MONTHS: SUMMER NOTABLE PURPLE VARIETIES: ‘Pink Pillar’, ‘Enchantment Purple’ 38) Abelia PLANT TYPE: SHRUB HARDINESS RATING: H5 FLOWERING MONTHS: SPRING / SUMMER NOTABLE PURPLE VARIETIES: ‘Edward Goucher’ AWARD OF GARDEN MERIT 39) Hydrangea PLANT TYPE: SHRUB HARDINESS RATING: H5 FLOWERING MONTHS: SUMMER NOTABLE PURPLE VARIETIES: ‘Purple Prince’, ‘Bavaria’ 40) Weigela PLANT TYPE: SHRUB HARDINESS RATING: H6 FLOWERING MONTHS: SPRING / SUMMER NOTABLE PURPLE VARIETIES: ‘ALEXANDRA’ AWARD OF GARDEN MERIT 41) Bear’s Breeches BOTANICAL NAME: Acanthus mollis PLANT TYPE: HERBACEOUS PERENNIAL HARDINESS RATING: H6 FLOWERING MONTHS: SUMMER NOTABLE PURPLE VARIETIES: COMMON, ‘SPINY’ 42) Hardy Geranium PLANT TYPE: HERBACEOUS PERENNIAL HARDINESS RATING: H7 FLOWERING MONTHS: SUMMER NOTABLE PURPLE VARIETIES: ‘Jolly Bee’, ‘Mrs Kendall Clark’, ‘Orion’ AWARD OF GARDEN MERIT 43) Speedwell BOTANICAL NAME: Veronica longifolia PLANT TYPE: HERBACEOUS PERENNIAL HARDINESS RATING: H7 FLOWERING MONTHS: SUMMER / AUTUMN 44) Phlox PLANT TYPE: ALPINE PERENNIAL HARDINESS RATING: H7 FLOWERING MONTHS: SUMMER NOTABLE PURPLE VARIETIES: ‘Miss Pepper’, ‘Prospero’ AWARD OF GARDEN MERIT 45) Chrysanthemum PLANT TYPE: HERBACEOUS PERENNIAL HARDINESS RATING: H2/H3 FLOWERING MONTHS: AUTUMN NOTABLE PURPLE VARIETIES: ‘Rynoon’, ‘Purple Margaret Dixon’ 46) Daylily BOTANICAL NAME: Hemerocallis PLANT TYPE: HERBACEOUS PERENNIAL HARDINESS RATING: H6 FLOWERING MONTHS: SUMMER NOTABLE PURPLE VARIETIES: ‘VOODOO DANCER’ 47) Bergenia PLANT TYPE: HERBACEOUS PERENNIAL HARDINESS RATING: H5 FLOWERING MONTHS: SPRING NOTABLE PURPLE VARIETIES: ‘Purpurascens’ AWARD OF GARDEN MERIT 48) Meadow Rue BOTANICAL NAME: Thalictrum PLANT TYPE: HERBACEOUS PERENNIAL HARDINESS RATING: H7 FLOWERING MONTHS: SUMMER 49) Hyacinth Bean BOTANICAL NAME: Lablab purpureus PLANT TYPE: CLIMBER HARDINESS RATING: H1C FLOWERING MONTHS: SUMMER / AUTUMN 50) Chilean Potato Tree BOTANICAL NAME: Solanum crispum ‘Glasnevin’ PLANT TYPE: CLIMBER HARDINESS RATING: H4 FLOWERING MONTHS: SUMMER / AUTUMN AWARD OF GARDEN MERIT 51) Delphinium PLANT TYPE: HERBACEOUS PERENNIAL HARDINESS RATING: H5 FLOWERING MONTHS: SUMMER NOTABLE PURPLE VARIETIES: ‘Faust’, ‘Black Knight’, ‘Purple Velvet’ AWARD OF GARDEN MERIT 52) Aubrieta PLANT TYPE: ALPINE PERENNIAL HARDINESS RATING: H6 FLOWERING MONTHS: SPRING / SUMMER NOTABLE PURPLE VARIETIES: ‘Blue Cascade’, ‘Kitte’
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52 Fiery And Vibrant Orange Flowering Plants With Lilies, Marigolds And Geums
IN THIS GUIDE 1) Mexican Sunflowers 2) Nasturtiums 3) Iceland Poppy 4) Asiatic Lily 5) Crown Imperial 6) Trumpet Vines 7) African Marigolds 8) Yellow Sage 9) Pansy 10) Tulips 11) Chinese Lantern 12) Calendula 13) Montbretia 14) Zinnia 15) California Poppies 16) Geums 17) Oriental Poppy 18) Canna Lily 19) Common Orange Daylily 20) Red Hot Pokers 21) Begonia 22) Foxtail Lilies 23) Gerbera Daisy 24) Witch Hazel 25) Bird Of Paradise 26) Stalked Bulbine 27) Butterfly Weed 28) Carnation 29) Chrysanthemum 30) Cosmos 31) Sneezeweed 32) Iris 33) Peruvian Lily 34) Lion’s Tail 35) Rose 36) Blanket Flower 37) Blackberry Lily 38) Lace Aloe 39) Dahlia 40) Foxgloves 41) Rhododendron 42) Peanut Cactus 43) Crocus 44) Staghorn Cinquefoil 45) Orange Ball Tree 46) California Fuchsia 47) Yarrow 48) Star Of Bethlehem 49) Indian Mallows 50) Golden Opal Flower 51) Golden Barberry 52) Barbados Snowdrop Why Choose Plants With Orange Flowers? Orange Is The Happiest Colour References Combining the powerful energy of red with the happiness of yellow, the colour orange is said to represent enthusiasm, joy, creativity and sunshine. It is considered an energetic colour, believed by some to evoke feelings of courage and strength and passion within us. As they say, “Orange is the new black”! Whether or not you buy into such beliefs, orange certainly is warm and inviting. Many plants flower in this evocative colour, in all kinds of different shades. So if you are ready to add a splash of excitement to your garden, we’ve put together some inspiration to help you choose the best plants with orange flowers for you. 1) Mexican Sunflowers BOTANICAL NAME: Tithonia rotundifolia PLANT TYPE: ANNUAL HARDINESS RATING: H2 FLOWERING MONTHS: SUMMER / AUTUMN PREFERRED POSITION: SHELTERED; FULL SUN Let’s kick things off with this fiery little number, the Mexican sunflower. These free-flowering annuals grow anywhere from 3-8 feet tall and bloom in an impactful and delightfully deep reddy-orange. These sun worshipping, spicy, showy plants are ideal for beginners; they can grow in most soil types and require very little care. Mexican sunflowers also attract butterflies and with their height bring them right up to eye level giving your garden an extra layer of magic. 2) Nasturtiums BOTANICAL NAME: Tropaeolum majus PLANT TYPE: ANNUAL CLIMBER HARDINESS RATING: H3 FLOWERING MONTHS: SUMMER / AUTUMN PREFERRED POSITION: FULL SUN Coming in an array of oranges from peachy yellow, all the way to burnt orange, nasturtiums are cheerful, quick and easy to grow, annual flowers. Not only do these plants sport beautifully bright greenery and produce a delightful scent, but all parts of the plants are edible, making them an intriguing addition to salads. Because of how rapidly they grow, these plants are also perfect if you are trying to encourage children to give gardening a go. They are perfect plants for growing in containers but also make brilliant ground cover plants. 3) Iceland Poppy BOTANICAL NAME: Papaver nudicaule PLANT TYPE: ANNUAL HARDINESS RATING: H7 FLOWERING MONTHS: SUMMER PREFERRED POSITION: FULL SUN Blossoming in creamy peaches, yellow-oranges and simple oranges, this delicate-looking perennial plant shows that orange can also bring a sense of charm to your garden. Flowering in late spring to early summer, the Iceland poppy usually grows no more than two feet in height and will attract birds, bees and butterflies to your garden. The Icelandic poppy also comes in a variety of other colours, meaning that combining it with other colours is a great way to introduce more colour to your garden whilst keeping orange as the centre of attention. 4) Asiatic Lily BOTANICAL NAME: Lilium NOTABLE VARIETIES: ‘Orange Summer’, ‘Sunset Joy’ PLANT TYPE: BULB HARDINESS RATING: H6 FLOWERING MONTHS: SUMMER PREFERRED POSITION: SHELTERED; FULL SUN Lillies are a real statement in any garden, and the orange Asiatic lily is no different. This boastful orange bloomer brings with it romance and drama and will also harmonise with other plants in shades of pinks and blues and pale yellows. Blooming in late spring to mid-summer, these lilies are usually unscented, but what they lack in scent they certainly make up in style. The key to these plants is to make sure you choose a location for them that will allow them to have at least 6 hours of sunlight. They are largely unfussy about soil, but in the right spot, this pretty perennial will reward you with beautiful, bountiful blooms that are guaranteed to impress. 5) Crown Imperial BOTANICAL NAME: Fritillaria imperialis NOTABLE VARIETIES: ‘AURORA’ PLANT TYPE: BULB HARDINESS RATING: H7 FLOWERING MONTHS: SUMMER PREFERRED POSITION: FULL SUN OR PART SHADE RHS AWARD OF GARDEN MERIT If you are keen to add something a little bit different and unique to your garden, then fritillaria is the plant for you. This bulbous perennial with its narrow, spiky crown of green leaves and its dramatic bell-shaped orange flowers is a real show-stopper. This plant will really give your garden the taste of the exotic. Thriving in partial to full sunlight and blooming in spring, fritillaria bulbs will produce the best blooms when planted in moist soil and once established are relatively simple to care for. Reaching up to four feet in height, these striking plants are perfect for borders, and in the right growing conditions will readily produce huge clumps and are guaranteed to spice up any garden. 6) Trumpet Vines BOTANICAL NAME: Campsis radicans NOTABLE VARIETIES: ‘INDIAN SUMMER’ PLANT TYPE: CLIMBER HARDINESS RATING: H4 FLOWERING MONTHS: SUMMER / AUTUMN PREFERRED POSITION: SHELTERED; FULL SUN Also known as trumpet vines, these cocky climbers are fast-growing and will quickly cover fences and walls. This vigorous, woody, deciduous plant blooms from late summer to autumn and adds real value to any garden. Their whimsical, orange trumpet-shaped flowers are real head turners and, full of fun, they will truly bring a sense of joy to any garden. Plant these beauties where they will have plenty of sunlight and a surface for them to climb and they will reward you with their blooming-gorgeous blooms. 7) African Marigolds BOTANICAL NAME: Tagetes erecta NOTABLE VARIETIES: ‘HERO ORANGE’ PLANT TYPE: ANNUAL HARDINESS RATING: H2 FLOWERING MONTHS: SUMMER / AUTUMN PREFERRED POSITION: FULL SUN This list could not be complete without the marvellous marigold. A firm favourite among gardeners, this no-fuss annual will bring the colour of sunshine to your garden. Plant them in well-draining soil where they can enjoy full sunlight and their flowers will flourish from late-spring to autumn. Marigolds are fast-growing and attract butterflies, bees and ladybirds and make a fine companion for vegetable patches as they can help protect them from pests. This flamboyant flower is easy to grow, making it perfect for a kids’ project or new gardeners. 8) Yellow Sage BOTANICAL NAME: Lantana camara PLANT TYPE: SHRUB HARDINESS RATING: H1C FLOWERING MONTHS: SPRING / SUMMER / AUTUMN PREFERRED POSITION: SHELTERED; FULL SUN 9) Pansy BOTANICAL NAME: VIOLA NOTABLE VARIETIES: ‘F1 Frizzle Sizzle Orange’, ‘Matrix Orange’ (Pictured) PLANT TYPE: BIENNIAL HARDINESS RATING: H5-H7 FLOWERING MONTHS: WINTER / SPRING PREFERRED POSITION: FULL SUN OR PART SHADE 10) Tulips BOTANICAL NAME: TULIPA NOTABLE VARIETIES: ‘Cairo’ (Pictured), ‘Ballerina’, ‘Orange Sun’ PLANT TYPE: BULBS HARDINESS RATING: VARIES FLOWERING MONTHS: SPRING PREFERRED POSITION: SHELTERED; FULL SUN RHS AWARD OF GARDEN MERIT 11) Chinese Lantern BOTANICAL NAME: Physalis alkekengi PLANT TYPE: HERBACEOUS PERENNIAL HARDINESS RATING: H7 FLOWERING MONTHS: SUMMER PREFERRED POSITION: FULL SUN OR PART SHADE RHS AWARD OF GARDEN MERIT 12) Calendula BOTANICAL NAME: Calendula officinalis PLANT TYPE: ANNUAL / BIENNIAL HARDINESS RATING: H5 FLOWERING MONTHS: SUMMER / AUTUMN PREFERRED POSITION: FULL SUN OR PART SHADE 13) Montbretia BOTANICAL NAME: Crocosmia ‘Lucifer’ PLANT TYPE: BULBS HARDINESS RATING: H5 FLOWERING MONTHS: SUMMER PREFERRED POSITION: FULL SUN OR PART SHADE RHS AWARD OF GARDEN MERIT 14) Zinnia NOTABLE VARIETIES: ‘Orange King’ (Pictured) PLANT TYPE: ANNUAL HARDINESS RATING: H2 FLOWERING MONTHS: SUMMER PREFERRED POSITION: SHELTERED; FULL SUN 15) California Poppies BOTANICAL NAME: Eschscholzia californica PLANT TYPE: ANNUAL HARDINESS RATING: H3 FLOWERING MONTHS: SUMMER PREFERRED POSITION: FULL SUN 16) Geums NOTABLE VARIETIES: ‘Borisii’ (Pictured) PLANT TYPE: PERENNIAL HARDINESS RATING: H7 FLOWERING MONTHS: SPRING / SUMMER PREFERRED POSITION: FULL SUN 17) Oriental Poppy BOTANICAL NAME: Papaver orientale PLANT TYPE: HERBACEOUS PERENNIAL HARDINESS RATING: H7 FLOWERING MONTHS: SPRING / SUMMER PREFERRED POSITION: SHELTERED; FULL SUN RHS AWARD OF GARDEN MERIT 18) Canna Lily NOTABLE VARIETIES: ‘PHASION’ PLANT TYPE: HERBACEOUS PERENNIAL HARDINESS RATING: H3 FLOWERING MONTHS: SUMMER / AUTUMN PREFERRED POSITION: SHELTERED; FULL SUN RHS AWARD OF GARDEN MERIT 19) Common Orange Daylily BOTANICAL NAME: Hemerocallis PLANT TYPE: HERBACEOUS PERENNIAL HARDINESS RATING: H7 FLOWERING MONTHS: SUMMER PREFERRED POSITION: FULL SUN OR PART SHADE 20) Red Hot Pokers BOTANICAL NAME: Kniphofias NOTABLE VARIETIES: ‘ELVIRA’ (PICTURED) PLANT TYPE: HERBACEOUS PERENNIAL HARDINESS RATING: H5 FLOWERING MONTHS: SUMMER PREFERRED POSITION: FULL SUN OR PART SHADE 21) Begonia NOTABLE VARIETIES: ‘Nonstop Orange’ (Pictured), ‘Orange Rubra’ PLANT TYPE: HOUSEPLANT / PERENNIAL HARDINESS RATING: VARIES FLOWERING MONTHS: VARIES PREFERRED POSITION: SHELTERED; PART SHADE 22) Foxtail Lilies BOTANICAL NAME: Eremurus NOTABLE VARIETIES: ‘CLEOPATRA’ (PICTURED) PLANT TYPE: HERBACEOUS PERENNIAL HARDINESS RATING: H6 FLOWERING MONTHS: SUMMER PREFERRED POSITION: SHELTERED; FULL SUN 23) Gerbera Daisy NOTABLE VARIETIES: ‘SWEET SUNSET’ PLANT TYPE: HOUSEPLANT / PERENNIAL HARDINESS RATING: H3 FLOWERING MONTHS: SPRING / SUMMER / AUTUMN PREFERRED POSITION: SHELTERED; FULL SUN 24) Witch Hazel BOTANICAL NAME: Hamamelis x intermedia NOTABLE VARIETIES: ‘ORANGE PEEL’ (PICTURED) PLANT TYPE: SHRUB HARDINESS RATING: H5 FLOWERING MONTHS: WINTER PREFERRED POSITION: SHELTERED; FULL SUN OR PART SHADE 25) Bird Of Paradise BOTANICAL NAME: Strelitzia reginae PLANT TYPE: HERBACEOUS PERENNIAL / HOUSEPLANT HARDINESS RATING: H1B FLOWERING MONTHS: WINTER / SPRING PREFERRED POSITION: SHELTERED; FULL SUN OR PART SHADE RHS AWARD OF GARDEN MERIT 26) Stalked Bulbine BOTANICAL NAME: Bulbine frutescens PLANT TYPE: HERBACEOUS PERENNIAL HARDINESS RATING: H3 FLOWERING MONTHS: YEAR-ROUND PREFERRED POSITION: SHELTERED; FULL SUN 27) Butterfly Weed BOTANICAL NAME: Asclepias tuberosa PLANT TYPE: PERENNIAL HARDINESS RATING: H4 FLOWERING MONTHS: SUMMER / AUTUMN PREFERRED POSITION: SHELTERED; FULL SUN 28) Carnation BOTANICAL NAME: DIANTHUS NOTABLE VARIETIES: ‘SUPER TROUPER’ PLANT TYPE: HERBACEOUS PERENNIAL HARDINESS RATING: H7 FLOWERING MONTHS: SPRING / SUMMER PREFERRED POSITION: FULL SUN 29) Chrysanthemum NOTABLE VARIETIES: ‘SICARDO ORANGE’ PLANT TYPE: HERBACEOUS PERENNIAL HARDINESS RATING: H3 FLOWERING MONTHS: AUTUMN PREFERRED POSITION: SHELTERED; FULL SUN RHS AWARD OF GARDEN MERIT 30) Cosmos BOTANICAL NAME: Cosmos sulphureus NOTABLE VARIETIES: ‘Tango’, ‘Cosmic Orange’ PLANT TYPE: ANNUAL HARDINESS RATING: H3 FLOWERING MONTHS: SUMMER / AUTUMN PREFERRED POSITION: SHELTERED; FULL SUN 31) Sneezeweed BOTANICAL NAME: HELENIUM NOTABLE VARIETIES: ‘Chipperfield Orange’ (Pictured) PLANT TYPE: PERENNIAL HARDINESS RATING: H7 FLOWERING MONTHS: SUMMER / AUTUMN PREFERRED POSITION: FULL SUN 32) Iris NOTABLE VARIETIES: ‘Orange Harvest’, ‘Carnival Time’ (Pictured) PLANT TYPE: HERBACEOUS PERENNIAL HARDINESS RATING: H7 FLOWERING MONTHS: SPRING / SUMMER / AUTUMN PREFERRED POSITION: FULL SUN 33) Peruvian Lily BOTANICAL NAME: Alstroemeria aurea PLANT TYPE: HERBACEOUS PERENNIAL HARDINESS RATING: H4 FLOWERING MONTHS: SUMMER PREFERRED POSITION: SHELTERED; FULL SUN OR PART SHADE 34) Lion’s Tail BOTANICAL NAME: Leonotis leonurus PLANT TYPE: SHRUB HARDINESS RATING: H2 FLOWERING MONTHS: AUTUMN / WINTER PREFERRED POSITION: SHELTERED; FULL SUN 35) Rose BOTANICAL NAME: ROSA NOTABLE VARIETIES: ‘Just Joey’ (Pictured), ‘Pat Austin’, ‘Super Trouper’, ‘Grace’ PLANT TYPE: SHRUB HARDINESS RATING: H6 FLOWERING MONTHS: SUMMER / AUTUMN PREFERRED POSITION: FULL SUN RHS AWARD OF GARDEN MERIT 36) Blanket Flower BOTANICAL NAME: Gaillardia grandiflora NOTABLE VARIETIES: ‘DAZZLER’ PLANT TYPE: PERENNIAL (GROWN AS AN ANNUAL) HARDINESS RATING: H5 FLOWERING MONTHS: SUMMER / AUTUMN PREFERRED POSITION: FULL SUN 37) Blackberry Lily BOTANICAL NAME: Belamcanda chinensis PLANT TYPE: HERBACEOUS PERENNIAL HARDINESS RATING: H7 FLOWERING MONTHS: SUMMER PREFERRED POSITION: FULL SUN OR PART SHADE 38) Lace Aloe BOTANICAL NAME: Aloe aristata PLANT TYPE: CACTI / HOUSEPLANT HARDINESS RATING: H3 FLOWERING MONTHS: AUTUMN PREFERRED POSITION: SHELTERED; INDIRECT SUNLIGHT 39) Dahlia NOTABLE VARIETIES: ‘Jodie Wilkinson’ PLANT TYPE: HERBACEOUS PERENNIAL HARDINESS RATING: H3 FLOWERING MONTHS: SUMMER / AUTUMN PREFERRED POSITION: SHELTERED; FULL SUN RHS AWARD OF GARDEN MERIT 40) Foxgloves BOTANICAL NAME: Digitalis purpurea NOTABLE VARIETIES: ‘Dalmation Peach’ PLANT TYPE: BIENNIAL HARDINESS RATING: H5 FLOWERING MONTHS: SUMMER PREFERRED POSITION: FULL SUN OR PART SHADE RHS AWARD OF GARDEN MERIT 41) Rhododendron NOTABLE VARIETIES: ‘GIBRALTAR’ PLANT TYPE: SHRUB HARDINESS RATING: H6 FLOWERING MONTHS: SPRING PREFERRED POSITION: SHELTERED; FULL SUN OR PART SHADE RHS AWARD OF GARDEN MERIT 42) Peanut Cactus BOTANICAL NAME: Echinopsis chamaecereus PLANT TYPE: CACTI HARDINESS RATING: H3 FLOWERING MONTHS: SUMMER PREFERRED POSITION: SHELTERED; FULL SUN RHS AWARD OF GARDEN MERIT 43) Crocus BOTANICAL NAME: Crocus angustifolius NOTABLE VARIETIES: ‘CLOTH-OF-GOD’ PLANT TYPE: BULBS HARDINESS RATING: H6 FLOWERING MONTHS: SPRING PREFERRED POSITION: FULL SUN RHS AWARD OF GARDEN MERIT 44) Staghorn Cinquefoil BOTANICAL NAME: Potentilla × tonguei NOTABLE VARIETIES: ‘Hopley’s Orange’ PLANT TYPE: HERBACEOUS PERENNIAL HARDINESS RATING: H5 FLOWERING MONTHS: SUMMER PREFERRED POSITION: FULL SUN RHS AWARD OF GARDEN MERIT 45) Orange Ball Tree BOTANICAL NAME: Buddleja globosa PLANT TYPE: SHRUB HARDINESS RATING: H5 FLOWERING MONTHS: SUMMER PREFERRED POSITION: SHELTERED; FULL SUN OR PART SHADE RHS AWARD OF GARDEN MERIT 46) California Fuchsia BOTANICAL NAME: Epilobium canum NOTABLE VARIETIES: ‘WESTERN HILLS’ PLANT TYPE: HERBACEOUS PERENNIAL HARDINESS RATING: H4 FLOWERING MONTHS: SUMMER / AUTUMN PREFERRED POSITION: SHELTERED; FULL SUN RHS AWARD OF GARDEN MERIT 47) Yarrow BOTANICAL NAME: Achillea millefolium NOTABLE VARIETIES: ‘Terracotta’ (Pictured) PLANT TYPE: HERBACEOUS PERENNIAL HARDINESS RATING: H7 FLOWERING MONTHS: SUMMER / AUTUMN PREFERRED POSITION: EXPOSED; FULL SUN 48) Star Of Bethlehem BOTANICAL NAME: Ornithogalum dubium PLANT TYPE: BULBS HARDINESS RATING: H2 FLOWERING MONTHS: WINTER / SPRING PREFERRED POSITION: SHELTERED; FULL SUN RHS AWARD OF GARDEN MERIT 49) Indian Mallows BOTANICAL NAME: Abutilon NOTABLE VARIETIES: ‘ORANGE GLOW’ PLANT TYPE: SHRUB HARDINESS RATING: H2 FLOWERING MONTHS: SPRING / SUMMER / AUTUMN PREFERRED POSITION: SHELTERED; FULL SUN RHS AWARD OF GARDEN MERIT 50) Golden Opal Flower BOTANICAL NAME: Lachenalia flava PLANT TYPE: BULBS HARDINESS RATING: H2 FLOWERING MONTHS: WINTER / SPRING PREFERRED POSITION: SHELTERED; FULL SUN RHS AWARD OF GARDEN MERIT 51) Golden Barberry BOTANICAL NAME: Berberis × stenophylla PLANT TYPE: SHRUB HARDINESS RATING: H5 FLOWERING MONTHS: SPRING PREFERRED POSITION: FULL SUN OR PART SHADE RHS AWARD OF GARDEN MERIT 52) Barbados Snowdrop BOTANICAL NAME: Habranthus tubispathus PLANT TYPE: BULBS HARDINESS RATING: H2 FLOWERING MONTHS: SUMMER PREFERRED POSITION: SHELTERED; FULL SUN RHS AWARD OF GARDEN MERIT Orange Is The Happiest Colour It was Frank Sinatra himself who said: “Orange is the happiest colour” and we think he has a point. Orange flowers bring such a cheerful, sunny vibe to any garden and will complement so many other shades and hues. Hopefully you are now bursting with orange inspiration and ready to fill your garden with positive, energising tones that will keep you smiling day after day. So what are you waiting for? Get out there and create the bold and beautiful garden you’ve been dreaming about!
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