Growing
Three Peony Specialists Share Growing Tips For Beginners: 'Good Drainage Is Most Important'
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Peony Types Peony Care Propagation Common Problems Peonies, also known as “Pentecost Roses”, are recognisable by their gorgeous fluffy blooms which come in varying shades of colours, shapes, and sizes. Popular among brides for bouquets and table decorations, these flowers are effortlessly romantic and often have a wonderful fragrance. Peonies are perfect for border displays and though they are slow-growing, these popular plants are absolutely worth the wait. In these guides, we collaborate with THREE incredible Peony specialists: Koen Hurtekant – Founder of The Peony Society. Carol Adelman – President of the Pacific Northwest Peony Society and Owner of the plant nursery Adelman Peony Gardens. Kate Blacker – Owner of the specialist nursery Little Budds Peony Farm. “They are beautiful, live a long life, and don’t take much care,” says Carol. “There’s also such a range of peony forms and colours!” Overview Botanical Name Paeonia Common Name(s) Peonies, Polish Roses Plant Type Perennial Flower Native Area Asia, Europe, North America Hardiness Rating H6 Foliage Large leaves often divided into multiple leaflets Flowers Showy, large flowers in a range of colours When To Sow May, June, October Flowering Months April, May, June Peonies are long-lived perennial plants meaning they will come back year after year. In fact, some peonies have been known to thrive for over a hundred years. “What’s not to love about a peony – the big blousy girls sell themselves!” says Kate. “The cutting season is six weeks long, which means we can easily work around this crop.” Blossoming from late spring to early summer their flamboyant flowers come in many shades including white, pink, coral, maroon, red and yellow – to name but a few. There are three common types of peonies: tree peonies, which are tall and woody; herbaceous peonies which will die back each winter; and intersectional peonies which are hybrids crossed between the two. “Nowadays, the intersectional cross between the shrubby and herbaceous groups is easily obtainable for every gardener,” says Koen. “This cross offers the flowers, leaflets and fragrance of the shrubby group, but they die back yearly like the herbaceous types.” Though not all types are scented, as with the colour, peonies also have a wide range of fragrances, from soft and sweet, to citrus, and even somewhat spicy. Peony Types The best way to choose your peony is by choosing which flower shape and colour you would like. Peonies have four arrangements for their bowl-shaped blooms, so you have a choice of how simple or extravagant you want to go. Single ‘Early Scout’ peony This peony’s bloom is mostly cup-shaped with no more than one or two rows of large petals that curl inwards, surrounding its many yellow stamen. Semi-Double ‘Coral Sunset’ The semi-double peonies are close in appearance to the single peonies, but instead, have two to three inward-curving rows of petals. Double ‘Pink Giant’ In double types the petals often overlap, and in their thin and sometimes-ruffled appearance, which is typically filled to the centre. Koen remarks that stamens are usually absent or sometimes hidden between the petals. Carpels are often gone, and sometimes smaller ones are hidden beneath the voluminous petals. “From semi-double to full double there are some varieties that are ‘in-between’,” says Koen. Anemone-Form This type can have either single or semi-double-like blooms. “The centre carpels are surrounded by transformed stamens,” remarks Koen. “These transformed stamens no longer contain any pollen, which is the main difference with singles. “Here the stamens are transformed into petal-like structures. If they are very small we call them ‘Japanese’-form flowers, if they are wide they are ‘anemone’-form, and if they are the same colour as the outer petals and fully transformed into normal petals you have a ‘bomb-double’.” Peony Care After you’ve planted your beautiful peonies, you will need to give them ongoing care to help them survive and thrive. Watering For the first year after planting and while they are establishing themselves, regular watering is key. However, being such a deep-rooted plant, when fully established, regular and routine watering will not be necessary and you only need to focus on them in particularly dry weather. “By far the most important factor in peony care is good drainage,” Koen states. “Peonies cannot stand growing in places that remain too wet for a long period of time.” Ensure the water can drain away freely in whatever spot you’ve planted in. Feeding “Peonies are rather hungry for nutrients, so regular fertilisation will be beneficial,” advises Koen. Simply applying a general-purpose fertiliser each year in springtime will give your peonies the boost they need to flourish. Follow the instructions on your chosen fertiliser. We also recommend that you then add a layer of garden compost or manure, this will help preserve moisture and prevent weeds. If using manure, take care to avoid covering the centre of the plant to prevent damage to the buds. However, when using compost, Koen advises that you are fine to cover the whole plant. Staking Staking is optional and won’t be necessary for all peonies but for cultivars with large flower heads, using a stake to support them will prevent the stems from bending and breaking. Deadheading Deadheading should be done with secateurs after flowering, but it really depends on which type of peony you’re growing as to whether you’d want to let it go to seed. “Almost all peonies are lactiflora,” says Koen. “They don’t set seed because they are mostly doubles and those usually don’t have the carpels needed to make any seed. “Hybrids can make seeds, it just depends on what variety you have. “If you grow a single lactiflora you might usually expect many seeds.” Regardless, deadheading spent flowers will prompt your plant to divert its energy from seed production to generating more blooms – so it’s a worthwhile activity for most gardeners. Older Plant Care Peonies are long-lived plants, and a well-cared-for peony could easily outlive you! With an older plant, if you find the flowering is less reliable then you can give it a new lease of life by lifting and dividing in late winter. Propagation Once your peonies are thriving you may want to share them with friends and family or plant a few more elsewhere in your garden. Because peonies do not breed true, the best way to increase them is through division which should take place in late autumn. Peonies that are grown from division will be identical in colour, shape and fragrance to their parent plant and you can expect them to begin flowering around two years after dividing. Sharing the love of your peonies through propagation is relatively straightforward. Once uprooted, remove all foliage and lift the clump with a spade, leaving as many roots intact as possible. As carefully as you can, gently wash off the soil, exposing the roots and buds. Using a sharp knife or secateurs remove sections of the crown, leaving each section with a minimum of three dormant buds as well as some roots attached. Share with your friends and family, or choose the perfect spot in your garden and replant. The buds should be 2.5cm below soil level. Common Problems Being such a hardy plant, if conditions are right, peonies will rarely run into trouble. That said there are a few things you may come across. Botrytis “Botrytis is the main disease of peonies,” says Carol. “Botrytis can look like lettuce that has been too long in the refrigerator and it can make a sore at the base of the stem or cause the bud to turn black. “If you see evidence of botrytis, remove the affected part and spray with any fungicide recommended for black spots on roses. “In addition, you can cut the foliage to the ground in autumn and put the foliage in the garbage, not the compost. “This way, if there were any botrytis spores on the plant, then they won’t be there to attack the plant as it comes out of the ground in the spring.” To prevent this disease, Carol recommends that you should provide a spot for your peonies with good air circulation – allowing the foliage to dry after a rainfall. Deep Planting & Shade If planted too deep or in shade your peonies may not be able to produce flowers. If this occurs then wait until autumn and then proceed to move your plant to a more suitable position and take care to plant them no deeper than 2.5cm. “I have found that planting too deeply is the most common cause of peonies not flowering, particularly for recently planted peonies that have not yet flowered,” shares Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly. “For an established peony that has stopped flowering, a division is the most likely restorative.” This will ensure your peony has a chance to thrive but do be aware that once moved it may take up to two years for your peony to flower. Prolonged Drought Though hardy, if your peony experiences long periods of drought, this can cause poor flower bud growth and buds may not even open. If a long dry spell occurs then mulch around the base of your plant and water regularly.
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Top Of The Pots: Garden Curators Share 27 Plants They Love To Grow In Containers
IN THIS GUIDE Situating Your Plants Hardy Plants For Pots 1) Bay Tree 2) Hebe ‘Pink Elephant’ 3) Geraniums 4) Heather Perennial Plants For Containers 5) Peruvian Lily 6) Lavender 7) Canna Lily Evergreen Plants For Pots 8) Temu 9) Round-Leaved Mint Bush 10) Tawhiwhi Tall Plants For Pots 11) Bamboo 12) Thuja 13) Bougainvillea Best Plants For Pots In Full Sun 14) Pieris ‘Prelude’ 15) Little Linda 16) Eternal Fragrance Shade-Friendly Plants For Pots 17) Plantain Lily 18) Creeping Jenny 19) Trailing Lobelia Best Flowering Plants For Pots 20) Lily Of The Nile 21) Rose ‘Munstead Wood’ 22) Yakushima Rhododendron 23) Begonia 24) African Daisy 25) Fuchsia 26) African Marigold 27) Dahlias Top Of The Pots You’ve bought a bunch of pots for plants, ready to put your green fingers to work and bring a vibrant green flourish to your home. But maybe you’re wondering which plants are best for those pots? This is a question with surprisingly varied answers: “the best” depends on what you’re trying to do, for starters. Are you looking for plants for pots in full sun, or for shade-loving plants for containers? Are you looking for flowering plants for pots, or something evergreen to guarantee colour year-round? Whatever pot-based needs you’re aiming to meet, we’ve written this guide to point you in the direction of the best plants to help you get there. “Because of my own background, I started with growing in pots, I’ve made sure that pots are my focus,” shares Our Plant Stories’ Sally Flatman. “Most plants can be grown in pots even if this isn’t forever.” Don’t be put off by pot growing. Situating Your Plants The great outdoors is the best place for plants. It’s where they belong, and the conditions are most often right for them to thrive. “I think the secret is to figure out the conditions of where the pot will be (sun or shade, exposed or sheltered) and then find plants to suit,” shares Sunil Patel who owns the garden at 13 Broom Acres. “Plants that remain exclusive to pots in the garden are those that we need to move into a greenhouse or even indoors for winter protection. “Among these are a Strelitzia (Bird of Paradise), lemongrass and lots of various sedums and succulents.” If you’re looking for plants to fill your outdoor space – whether it’s a garden, a balcony, a patch of pavement, or anything in between – we’ve got you covered. In the sections below we’ll explore the most commonly requested types of plants for outdoor pots, then give our favourite recommendations for each. This list is not exhaustive! You have tons of options for outdoor plants, so if you don’t find something you like here, keep looking. Hardy Plants For Pots These hardy plants are those that can hold their own in low temperatures. And let’s face it: In the UK, where our weather flits between one extreme and another, hardy plants are a good bet. 1) Bay Tree BOTANICAL NAME: Laurus nobilis PLANT TYPE: TREE HARDINESS RATING: H4-5 PREFERRED ASPECT: FULL SUN OR PART SHADE; SHELTERED If you’ve ever found an entire leaf in your curry, that was most likely bay leaf. The fragrant flavour is commonplace in kitchens, and the plant makes a welcome addition to any British garden. Bay grows in pots or shaped containers like troughs and similar. It responds to pruning, and can be shaped if you’re interested in topiary. This plant has a hardiness rating of H4-5 depending on where it’s grown – it will be less hardy in a container than it would be in the ground, and will fare slightly better in sheltered positions. When cultivating a bay tree in a container, it likes a soil-based compost with grit for drainage. You only need to water moderately, and you can apply liquid fertiliser fortnightly between May and September. Repotting every two years helps this plant to thrive – aim to do that in spring. 2) Hebe ‘Pink Elephant’ BOTANICAL NAME: Hebe ‘Pink Elephant’ PLANT TYPE: SHRUB HARDINESS RATING: H4 PREFERRED ASPECT: FULL SUN; SHELTERED Creamy pinks and greens give this hardy evergreen an intriguing and alluring visual appeal. We love plants with unusual palettes, and we recommend this compact Hebe to any budding gardener. The ‘Pink Elephant’ has a hardiness rating of H4. 3) Geraniums BOTANICAL NAME: GERANIUM PLANT TYPE: PERENNIAL HARDINESS RATING: H7 PREFERRED ASPECT: ANY “Of the hardy Geraniums, one with attractive dark foliage, called G. pratense ‘Storm Cloud’, is relatively upright to suit a container,” shares Master Horticulturist Peter Lickorish. “Some are more sprawling and better suited for use as ground cover.” 4) Heather BOTANICAL NAME: Calluna vulgaris PLANT TYPE: SHRUB HARDINESS RATING: H7 PREFERRED ASPECT: FULL SUN Perennial Plants For Containers Perennials come back year after year, meaning that once you’ve added them to your garden, you can enjoy them for a good amount of time. They’re perfect for gardeners who want to kick back and enjoy their outdoor space, without the pressure of planting out a new batch of plants every season. Thankfully, there are plenty of perennials that grow well in pots and containers. Here are a couple of our favourites: 5) Peruvian Lily BOTANICAL NAME: Alstroemeria aurea PLANT TYPE: HERBACEOUS PERENNIAL HARDINESS RATING: H4 PREFERRED ASPECT: FULL SUN OR PART SHADE; SHELTERED A mainstay in British gardens, and a plant with modern varieties to put exciting new twists on the traditional. Offering a rainbow of red, orange, yellow, pink, or white, the Peruvian Lily is a great choice for any gardener. Some varieties – including ‘Sonata’, ‘Friendship’, ‘Spitfire’, ‘Tessa’, and more – have received the RHS Award of Garden Merit, marking them as particularly well suited to gardens in our fair country. Alstroemeria also makes for great cuttings if you want to grow new plants indoors, or give them as gifts. A truly versatile plant. 6) Lavender BOTANICAL NAME: Lavandula PLANT TYPE: PERENNIAL SHRUB HARDINESS RATING: H5 PREFERRED ASPECT: FULL SUN; SHELTERED Who doesn’t love lavender? We’ll be honest, this is one of our favourite plants ever. The mind-blowing spectrum of pinks and purples it brings, the unmistakable and enchanting scent, and the fact that bees can’t resist it. All these factors combine to make lavender a rewarding and beautiful addition to any garden. “For many plants, including lavender, planting into a pot more than three times the root-ball size could cause the compost to sit too damp and eventually the plant may rot,” says Peter. “Therefore, I generally stick to pots no more than twice the size of the original rootball. A wider pot can provide good anchorage for taller plants.” 7) Canna Lily BOTANICAL NAME: Canna PLANT TYPE: PERENNIAL HARDINESS RATING: H3 PREFERRED ASPECT: FULL SUN; SHELTERED Evergreen Plants For Pots Evergreens are the best plants for pots all year round. Their foliage remains visually interesting throughout the year, and they don’t require replanting or replacing next season. 8) Temu BOTANICAL NAME: Luma apiculata PLANT TYPE: SHRUB HARDINESS RATING: H4 PREFERRED ASPECT: ANY This evergreen shrub sports attractive white flowers in summer and autumn, with purple berries at the end of its flowering season. It’s received the RHS Award of Garden Merit (AGM), signifying its compatibility with UK growing conditions. So if you’re looking for an evergreen that will thrive in pots in your garden, luma is a good bet. In fact, luma is noted for its suitability for city courtyards, which may trap its sweet fragrance, and gardens, where your plant choices may be limited to those that can grow in containers. This plant will keep growing for years to come, sometimes taking up to fifty years to reach its full height. 9) Round-Leaved Mint Bush BOTANICAL NAME: Prostanthera rotundifolia PLANT TYPE: SHRUB HARDINESS RATING: H2 PREFERRED ASPECT: FULL SUN; SHELTERED This evergreen shrub has lovely purple flowers punctuating its aromatic green leaves. It’s evergreen, but not as hardy as some other evergreens. For this reason it’s recommended to take it indoors over winter. 10) Tawhiwhi BOTANICAL NAME: Pittosporum tenuifolium PLANT TYPE: SHRUB HARDINESS RATING: H4 PREFERRED ASPECT: FULL SUN OR PART SHADE; SHELTERED This attractive evergreen with creamy-green leaves and a faint honey-scent will grow well in containers. Tall Plants For Pots Sometimes plants in pots serve more than just aesthetic roles. They’re great for portable privacy screens in overlooked gardens or anywhere else you might feel a bit exposed. Here are some tall plants for pots in your garden that will provide privacy and look lovely. 11) Bamboo BOTANICAL NAME: INCLUDES PHYLLOSTACHYS NIGRA PLANT TYPE: PERENNIAL HARDINESS RATING: H5 PREFERRED ASPECT: SHELTERED This plant is renowned as one of the fastest-growing in the world, and with good reason. Planting out bamboo in containers can give you a tall screen for privacy in just a couple of years. Buy an already-established bamboo plant for your container, and you can be behind its natural screen even quicker. As well as helping with privacy, bamboo is a generally striking plant. It brings a nuanced visual to outdoor spaces and harkens to oriental settings. Paired with the right plants – or perhaps some nice fairy lights – bamboo can make an enchanting and exotic haven out of any outdoor area. 12) Thuja BOTANICAL NAME: Thuja PLANT TYPE: TREE (CONIFER) HARDINESS RATING: H7 PREFERRED ASPECT: FULL SUN These evergreen trees can grow up to 60m high, in the right conditions. Obviously, a container in your garden probably won’t provide those conditions, but they are known for their stature and density nonetheless, both of which are properties conducive to privacy in your garden. “If I had to pick only one, I would go for Thuja occidentalis ‘Pyramidalis Aurea’ for its golden colour and conical shape, but you could make a collection of different Thuja hues and forms,” says Peter. 13) Bougainvillea BOTANICAL NAME: Bougainvillea PLANT TYPE: CLIMBER SHRUB HARDINESS RATING: H2 PREFERRED ASPECT: FULL SUN; SHELTERED Best Plants For Pots In Full Sun If you’ve got a garden where space is at a premium, you may not have the luxury of putting your pots in the shade. This section showcases a couple of plants that are quite happy sitting in full sunlight; no gardener should be left behind just because their garden has no shady spots. 14) Pieris ‘Prelude’ BOTANICAL NAME: Pieris japonica ‘Prelude’ PLANT TYPE: SHRUB HARDINESS RATING: H5 PREFERRED ASPECT: FULL SUN; SHELTERED Bundles of white lantern-shaped leaves grace this plant’s branches in spring, and we absolutely adore it. This plant will do well in full sun or partial shade, as long as it is sheltered from the worst of the elements. ‘Prelude’ has been awarded the RHS Plants for Pollinators label, meaning it’ll attract bees and other important pollen collectors to your garden. If you’re looking for colourful buds and buzzing company in your garden, you can’t go far wrong with this plant. 15) Little Linda BOTANICAL NAME: Kalmia latifolia PLANT TYPE: SHRUB HARDINESS RATING: H6 PREFERRED ASPECT: ANY A compact Kalmia with a truly stunning red bloom giving way to a calmer but no-less-striking pink. It’s rare to find a plant with such a characterful colour profile. We think you’ll love Little Linda. 16) Eternal Fragrance BOTANICAL NAME: Daphne × transatlantica ‘Eternal Fragrance’ PLANT TYPE: SHRUB HARDINESS RATING: H5 PREFERRED ASPECT: FULL SUN; SHELTERED This Daphne variety produces nice white, fragrant flowers throughout spring and summer months, even into autumn. It’s semi-evergreen, and will grow well in full sun or partial shade. Shade-Friendly Plants For Pots On the other side of the coin, some of us with small gardens aren’t lucky enough to have a spot that gets reliable sunlight. If this is the case, you need plants that can thrive in partial or constant shade. Thankfully, there are plenty of shade-loving plants for containers to choose from. A small garden that doesn’t get sun isn’t the curse it initially seems to be. 17) Plantain Lily BOTANICAL NAME: HOSTA PLANT TYPE: PERENNIAL HARDINESS RATING: H7 PREFERRED ASPECT: PART SHADE; SHELTERED There are many varieties of hosta, the vast majority of which thrive in shady conditions. These plants are better than average at attracting slugs and snails, those prevalent pests that threaten gardeners across the country. If you choose a hosta for your garden, be sure to take extra precautions against these slimy intruders. 18) Creeping Jenny BOTANICAL NAME: Lysimachia NUMMULARIA PLANT TYPE: PERENNIAL HARDINESS RATING: H6 PREFERRED ASPECT: PART SHADE Lysimachia is a low-growing plant with leaves that spill downward to create a pleasing visual effect. They’re popular amongst gardeners with shady spots that need filling, and for good reason. 19) Trailing Lobelia BOTANICAL NAME: Lobelia erinus PLANT TYPE: ANNUAL HARDINESS RATING: H2 PREFERRED ASPECT: PART SHADE A lot of plants fall under the Lobelia umbrella, but this trailing variety lends itself perfectly to hanging baskets. If you’re looking for trailing plants for pots in your garden, this is an excellent choice. The bold and dramatic purple-blues are just lovely to look at, too. Whilst on the subject of shade, the Rhododendron further on in this guide will suit a shaded position. Best Flowering Plants For Pots Not all gardeners require plants that put forth flowers, but to us, a colourful bloom is one of the most rewarding aspects of gardening. This section introduces some plants whose bouquets will impress even the most reluctant flower fancier. 20) Lily Of The Nile BOTANICAL NAME: Agapanthus PLANT TYPE: PERENNIAL HARDINESS RATING: H3-H5 PREFERRED ASPECT: FULL SUN; SHELTERED According to some gardeners, this plant has the interesting property of flowering more when its roots are restricted, making it perfect for pots. This doesn’t mean you should let the plant get pot-bound – you still need to take the relevant precautions and repot occasionally – but you can get away with leaving it a little longer than you would otherwise. Depending on the variety you choose, Agapanthus can bring blue, white, purple, or various other colours to your outdoor space. They’re a versatile plant that will reward any gardener who incorporates it into their potted plant repertoire. “Look for your individual variety’s hardiness rating to decide whether it can be left outside over winter,” Peter advises. “If it is H3, be sure to move the pot under cover during the colder months.” 21) Rose ‘Munstead Wood’ BOTANICAL NAME: Rosa ‘Munstead Wood’ PLANT TYPE: SHRUB HARDINESS RATING: H6 PREFERRED ASPECT: FULL SUN; SHELTERED A hardy rose with a deep-pink bloom. This deciduous flower will bring striking colour to your garden in summer and autumn, and thrives in containers. 22) Yakushima Rhododendron BOTANICAL NAME: Rhododendron yakushimanum PLANT TYPE: SHRUB HARDINESS RATING: H5 PREFERRED ASPECT: SHELTERED This vibrant rhododendron has varieties in a range of warm tones. It remains visually interesting after flowering with attractive foliage, unlike some other plants in this family, which are noted for being a bit dull between flowering seasons. Also try the Rhododendron ‘Dopey’ for containers for this reason, as it doesn’t waste space when out of bloom. 23) Begonia BOTANICAL NAME: BEGONIA PLANT TYPE: ANNUAL HARDINESS RATING: H1B PREFERRED ASPECT: PART SHADE 24) African Daisy BOTANICAL NAME: Osteospermum jucundum PLANT TYPE: PERENNIAL HARDINESS RATING: H3 PREFERRED ASPECT: FULL SUN 25) Fuchsia BOTANICAL NAME: Fuchsia PLANT TYPE: SHRUB HARDINESS RATING: H4 PREFERRED ASPECT: SHELTERED 26) African Marigold BOTANICAL NAME: Tagetes erecta PLANT TYPE: ANNUAL HARDINESS RATING: H2 PREFERRED ASPECT: FULL SUN 27) Dahlias BOTANICAL NAME: Dahlia PLANT TYPE: PERENNIAL HARDINESS RATING: Typically H3 PREFERRED ASPECT: FULL SUN; SHELTERED Top Of The Pots After reading our guide to the best plants for pots and containers, you should have a pretty good idea of some of the options available to you. Pots and containers are a great way to expand your outdoor space, but the container size also matters, as Peter shares: “Not all pots are created equal. I like to choose taller pots, which may hold moisture better, for plants like Clematis, which appreciate these conditions. “I like to experiment with mixtures of pots and find that a grouping fits best if it shares one thing in common, be it a colour, material, plant, or shape. Otherwise, unless it’s your intention, it can look a bit…er…potty!” A small garden, or even an enclosed concrete balcony, needn’t be a hindrance to your green fingers. Planting out in pots is rewarding whether you have one solitary plant outside your front door, or a bustling garden with many pots spilling forth with varied and visually exciting plants. We believe that anyone should be able to bring plants to their outdoor space, whatever it looks like. With that in mind, we hope you enjoyed our guide, and that you feel inspired to go forth and pot plants to your heart’s content.
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Research Says These 21 Versatile Shrubs Are The Fastest Growing
IN THIS GUIDE 1) Green Giant 2) Photinia 3) Hydrangea 4) Butterfly Bush 5) Portuguese Laurel 6) Apple Blossom 7) Rambler Rose 8) Forsythia 9) Tree Mallow ‘Rosea’ 10) Fuchsia 11) Rhododendron 12) Gooseberry 13) Rose Of Sharon 14) Lilac 15) Firethorn 16) Cotoneaster 17) Viburnum 18) Goat Willow 19) Dogwood 20) Mock Orange 21) Raspberry Shrubs may be one of the most versatile plants you can include in your garden. With thousands of varieties, they can emphasise structure and create texture and bursts of colour. If you are on the hunt for fast-growing shrubs, then chances are you are looking to quickly plug a gap, wishing to create more privacy, or perhaps you are just feeling impatient. Aside from the charming aesthetic they can bring to your garden, the humble shrub can indeed provide many valuable functions. From creating a windbreak or a screen, to providing you with a formal or informal hedge – they really are the unsung heroes of our gardens. Some shrubs can take quite a while to establish, so if you have a need for speed, this guide is for you. We’ve put together a list of fast-growing shrubs as well as ways in which you can use them to your advantage. 1) Green Giant BOTANICAL NAME: THUJA HARDINESS RATING: H6 PREFERRED ASPECT: ANY TYPICAL GROWTH PER YEAR: 60CM YEARS TO EVENTUAL SIZE: 15-20 YEARS MAX HEIGHT: 10M+ MAX WIDTH: 6-8M While it might be typically considered a tree rather than a shrub (especially if allowed to grow unchecked, as above) it can be easily shaped and will seemingly grow at the speed of light! There are many types of Thuja, but when it comes to a fast-growing type, look no further than the Green Giant. Growing best in rich, well-drained soil and with full sun exposure, this tall, strong evergreen will quickly create the perfect screen for privacy as well as being an excellent candidate for hedges. 2) Photinia BOTANICAL NAME: Photinia × fraseri ‘Red Robin’ HARDINESS RATING: H5 PREFERRED ASPECT: ANY TYPICAL GROWTH PER YEAR: 40CM YEARS TO EVENTUAL SIZE: 10 YEARS MAX HEIGHT: 4M MAX WIDTH: 2.5M AGM RECIPIENT Growing up to 5m in height, this popular plant grows quickly, producing an excellent privacy screen for your garden. “Photinia is a really versatile garden shrub, proving year-round interest and screening,” shares Horticulturist Colin Skelly. “Early in the year, the new foliage is a particularly attractive red, followed by glossy green leaves and autumn berries that are popular with birds. It is beautiful as well as functional.” Be aware that this shrub likes to spread but with regular pruning it is easily contained. If you do find yourself with an overgrown plant then it will respond to hard pruning. Also known as ‘Red Robin’, this evergreen would also work very well for hedging and its new growth is a beautiful, bright red in springtime. The Photinia is easy to grow and has no strong preferences when it comes to soil. 3) Hydrangea BOTANICAL NAME: Hydrangea paniculata VIGOROUS VARIETIES: ‘LIMELIGHT’ HARDINESS RATING: H5 PREFERRED ASPECT: FULL SUN TYPICAL GROWTH PER YEAR: 40CM YEARS TO EVENTUAL SIZE: 5-8 YEARS MAX HEIGHT: 2.5M+ MAX WIDTH: 2M AGM RECIPIENT Found in gardens all across the country, this lavish, flowering shrub is renowned for its stunning globes which bloom in an array of colours from mid to late summer. There are many different types of Hydrangeas and they are super easy to grow and establish themselves quickly. This shrub usually flowers in shades of pink, purple and blue and with some plants you can actually manipulate the colour by changing the pH levels in the soil. These gorgeous showstoppers also vary greatly in size with some growing no more than three feet, whilst others can grow up to fifteen and span a width of twelve. Ideally, you want to plant them in autumn in a sheltered spot that gets bright morning sunlight but plenty of shade in the afternoon. 4) Butterfly Bush BOTANICAL NAME: Buddleja davidii VIGOROUS VARIETIES: ‘Nanho Purple’ (Pictured) HARDINESS RATING: H6 PREFERRED ASPECT: FULL SUN TYPICAL GROWTH PER YEAR: 65CM YEARS TO EVENTUAL SIZE: 3-4 YEARS MAX HEIGHT: 2.5M MAX WIDTH: 1.5M AGM RECIPIENT Commonly known as the ‘Butterfly Bush’, this gorgeous shrub produces masses of blossoms that bloom from summer to autumn. Its flowers come in many different shades but if you’ve chosen it to attract butterflies then they seem to prefer the species that blooms in mauve. Buddleias require full sunlight and well-drained soil and can grow to around ten feet tall. They tend to respond well to being cut back hard in spring as this encourages growth which will produce more flowers. 5) Portuguese Laurel BOTANICAL NAME: Prunus lusitanica HARDINESS RATING: H5 PREFERRED ASPECT: ANY TYPICAL GROWTH PER YEAR: 50CM YEARS TO EVENTUAL SIZE: 20+ YEARS MAX HEIGHT: 10M+ MAX WIDTH: 6-8M AGM RECIPIENT This speedy evergreen is the perfect shrub to create an elegant hedge for your garden. Bearing glossy dark-green leaves which grow from striking, red stems, it also produces sweet-smelling, white blossom in the summertime, as well as small red berries making it very attractive to both butterflies and birds. This resilient shrub can grow up to five meters in height but is easily maintained and shaped, only requiring one trim a year in summer. It is best grown in a sheltered spot in sunlight or partly in shade. 6) Apple Blossom BOTANICAL NAME: ESCALLONIA HARDINESS RATING: H4 PREFERRED ASPECT: ANY TYPICAL GROWTH PER YEAR: 30-40CM YEARS TO EVENTUAL SIZE: 5-8 YEARS MAX HEIGHT: 2.5M MAX WIDTH: 1.5M AGM RECIPIENT This splendid shrub is also an evergreen with thick, leathery green leaves, with five-petalled flowers that bloom in summer and early autumn in shades of white, pink or red. Not only are they ideal for hedging but they are also adept at growing in tricky garden spots, tolerate a wide range of soil types and can also provide an excellent windbreak. Preferring to grow in full sunlight the Apple Blossom can also be grown in pots and, likewise, will adapt well to growing on a rockery. 7) Rambler Rose BOTANICAL NAME: ROSA VIGOROUS VARIETIES: ‘ALBERTINE’ HARDINESS RATING: H6 PREFERRED ASPECT: FULL SUN TYPICAL GROWTH PER YEAR: 60-100CM YEARS TO EVENTUAL SIZE: 6-8 YEARS MAX HEIGHT: 6-8M MAX WIDTH: 2-3M AGM RECIPIENT This rampantly growing shrub is perfect for clothing an unsightly wall or draping over an archway. Hopelessly romantic, rambling roses can spread to up to six meters so do make sure you have ample space for them. They usually produce an abundance of flowers in late spring or early summer, blooming for several weeks. Ramblers are healthy shrubs, resistant to disease, require minimal care and will tolerate most soils and partial shade. 8) Forsythia HARDINESS RATING: H5 PREFERRED ASPECT: ANY TYPICAL GROWTH PER YEAR: 50CM YEARS TO EVENTUAL SIZE: 4-5 YEARS MAX HEIGHT: 2.5M MAX WIDTH: 2.5M AGM RECIPIENT Perfect for hedging and sloped or informal gardens, Forsythia shrubs can add a dramatic flair to any garden. Easily recognisable by their bright, yellow flowers that bloom in early spring, this plant is easy to take care of and maintain. Enjoying full sunlight, this shrub should be planted where it is likely to receive around six hours of sun in well-drained soil. 9) Tree Mallow ‘Rosea’ BOTANICAL NAME: Malva × clementii VIGOROUS VARIETIES: ‘ROSEA’ (PICTURED) HARDINESS RATING: H5 PREFERRED ASPECT: FULL SUN TYPICAL GROWTH PER YEAR: 50CM YEARS TO EVENTUAL SIZE: 3-5 YEARS MAX HEIGHT: 2M MAX WIDTH: 1M AGM RECIPIENT Lavatera, or ‘Tree Mallow’, are perfect for adding beautiful colour to your garden. From mid-summer, they boast numerous large flowers in shades of pink, white and purple, which can be prolonged by frequent dead-heading. This shrub is straightforward to grow and care for and can grow to up to two meters, so while it can be a border plant, you will need to provide it with plenty of space. 10) Fuchsia VIGOROUS VARIETIES: ‘WHARFEDALE’; ‘MARGARET’ HARDINESS RATING: H4 PREFERRED ASPECT: ANY; SHELTERED TYPICAL GROWTH PER YEAR: 30-40CM YEARS TO EVENTUAL SIZE: 2-3 YEARS MAX HEIGHT: 1-2M MAX WIDTH: 0.5M AGM RECIPIENT 11) Rhododendron VIGOROUS VARIETIES: ‘LAVENDER GIRL’ HARDINESS RATING: H6 PREFERRED ASPECT: PART SHADE; SHELTERED TYPICAL GROWTH PER YEAR: 55-60CM YEARS TO EVENTUAL SIZE: 3-4 YEARS MAX HEIGHT: 2.5M MAX WIDTH: 1.5M AGM RECIPIENT 12) Gooseberry BOTANICAL NAME: Ribes uva-crispa VIGOROUS VARIETIES: ‘INVICTA’ HARDINESS RATING: H6 PREFERRED ASPECT: ANY; SHELTERED TYPICAL GROWTH PER YEAR: 40-50CM YEARS TO EVENTUAL SIZE: 3-5 YEARS MAX HEIGHT: 1.5M MAX WIDTH: 1.5M AGM RECIPIENT 13) Rose Of Sharon BOTANICAL NAME: Hibiscus syriacus VIGOROUS VARIETIES: ‘Southern Bell’; ‘Woodbridge’ (Pictured) HARDINESS RATING: H4 PREFERRED ASPECT: FULL SUN; SHELTERED TYPICAL GROWTH PER YEAR: 50CM YEARS TO EVENTUAL SIZE: 3-5 YEARS MAX HEIGHT: 2.5M MAX WIDTH: 1M AGM RECIPIENT 14) Lilac BOTANICAL NAME: Syringa vulgaris HARDINESS RATING: H6 PREFERRED ASPECT: FULL SUN TYPICAL GROWTH PER YEAR: 55CM YEARS TO EVENTUAL SIZE: 10-15 YEARS MAX HEIGHT: 8M MAX WIDTH: 4M 15) Firethorn BOTANICAL NAME: PYRACANTHA HARDINESS RATING: H6 PREFERRED ASPECT: ANY TYPICAL GROWTH PER YEAR: 30CM YEARS TO EVENTUAL SIZE: 10 YEARS MAX HEIGHT: 2-3M MAX WIDTH: 2-3M AGM RECIPIENT 16) Cotoneaster HARDINESS RATING: H6 PREFERRED ASPECT: ANY TYPICAL GROWTH PER YEAR: 30-40CM YEARS TO EVENTUAL SIZE: 10-12 YEARS MAX HEIGHT: 4M MAX WIDTH: 4M AGM RECIPIENT 17) Viburnum BOTANICAL NAME: Viburnum tinus HARDINESS RATING: H4 PREFERRED ASPECT: ANY; SHELTERED TYPICAL GROWTH PER YEAR: 30-40CM YEARS TO EVENTUAL SIZE: 10-15 YEARS MAX HEIGHT: 3-4M MAX WIDTH: 3-4M 18) Goat Willow BOTANICAL NAME: Salix caprea HARDINESS RATING: H6 PREFERRED ASPECT: FULL SUN TYPICAL GROWTH PER YEAR: 30CM YEARS TO EVENTUAL SIZE: 20-30 YEARS MAX HEIGHT: 8-12M MAX WIDTH: 4-6M 19) Dogwood BOTANICAL NAME: Cornus alba VIGOROUS VARIETIES: ‘SIBIRICA’ (PICTURED) HARDINESS RATING: H7 PREFERRED ASPECT: ANY TYPICAL GROWTH PER YEAR: 30-50CM YEARS TO EVENTUAL SIZE: 5-8 YEARS MAX HEIGHT: 2.5M MAX WIDTH: 2.5M AGM RECIPIENT 20) Mock Orange BOTANICAL NAME: Philadelphus VIGOROUS VARIETIES: ‘Beauclerk’ HARDINESS RATING: H6 PREFERRED ASPECT: ANY TYPICAL GROWTH PER YEAR: 30-50CM YEARS TO EVENTUAL SIZE: 5 YEARS MAX HEIGHT: 2.5M MAX WIDTH: 2.5M AGM RECIPIENT 21) Raspberry BOTANICAL NAME: Rubus idaeus VIGOROUS VARIETIES: ‘Malling Admiral’; ‘Polka’ HARDINESS RATING: H6 PREFERRED ASPECT: FULL SUN; SHELTERED TYPICAL GROWTH PER YEAR: 50CM YEARS TO EVENTUAL SIZE: 3-5 YEARS MAX HEIGHT: 2.5M MAX WIDTH: 0.5M AGM RECIPIENT
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Growing Cyclamen With The Experts - These Are The Varieties And Care Tips To Get Started
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Cyclamen Varieties Planting Cyclamen Soil Requirements Where To Plant When To Plant Planting Out Plant Hardiness Cyclamen Plant Care Pruning References Cyclamen is a cute and attractive family of flowers that bring reds, pinks, purples, and whites to your outdoor spaces. They’re hardy perennials, making them popular choices for British gardeners, and, depending on the varieties you choose, they can bring colour to your garden year-round. This plant is so popular in some places that its populations have been depleted by illegal collection, making them endangered.1 By growing cyclamen in your garden you could be contributing toward the preservation of at-risk species, which is an exciting prospect.2 We have collaborated with Trevor Wiltshire from The Cyclamen Society in writing this guide. Trevor has a particular fondness for cyclamens, citing his interest in the species: “They are permanent perennials that need very little care and provide interest and colour for 11 months of the year when a wide range of species are grown”. Overview Botanical Name Cyclamen Plant Type Perennial Flower Native Area Europe / Mediterranean Hardiness Rating H1C – H4 Foliage Leaf shape varies Flowers Various, usually pink, white or purple When To Sow January, February, March, October, November, December Flowering Months January, February, March, April, May, June, August, September Cyclamen from UK garden centres – whether you buy the plant or the seed – is propagated responsibly, so you don’t need to worry about contributing to the threat wild cyclamen plants face. Cyclamen is a genus of plant that contains 24 species; all of which are perennial.3 The family is native to Europe, with some species as far-reaching as Iran and eastern Africa. While all species share the same broad colour palette, there are aesthetic differences between them. Depending on the look you’re going for, different species will appeal more than others. When choosing cyclamen for your garden, be sure to know what it will look like throughout its lifespan. These plants are perennial, meaning they’ll come back year after year. Rushing the decision, or buying seeds without researching the adult plant, could be a mistake that sticks with you for a long time. Cyclamen Varieties “I adore hardy cyclamen because they are amazing little plants for autumn into winter and early spring, often growing in quite difficult places where not much else grows, like shade under trees,” shares Garden Designer Noel Kingsbury. “They are small scale but are wonderfully indestructible and unusual little flowers.” The cyclamen genus is smaller than some other garden plants, with just 24 species. When asked about his favourites, Trevor notes: “Cyclamen coum for mid-winter colour and foliage interest, C. graecum in walls (Cornish hedges) and raised beds to give nice foliage and then good flowers in late summer. “C.hederifolium as a ‘bomb proof’ all round garden plant in shade and woodland.” Here are a few favourites to get you started: C. ‘Laser Rose’ Despite the futuristic name, this soft-pink cyclamen brings a calming energy to outdoor spaces. It thrives in partial shade, with a south, east, or west-facing aspect. It’s not fussy when it comes to soil: you can grow it in sand, clay, chalk, or loam; at most accepted pH levels. After planting it’ll take 2-5 years to reach its maximum height of about half a metre. This variety will burst forth with pink flowers in winter. C. ‘Sierra Scarlet’ These flowers have a lovely blend of crimson and vintage pink, providing an engaging splash of colour in the winter months. The variety grows quicker than the ‘Laser Rose’, taking one year to reach its full height and spread of about half a metre each. C. rhodium (Peloponnesian Cyclamen) This variety sports lantern-shaped flowers with light pink tops and rich, deep pink bottoms. They’re smaller than previous cyclamens, reaching a height and spread of about 10cm over 1-2 years. You’ll enjoy a pink explosion in springtime if you go for this variety. Planting Cyclamen This guide details how you can grow cyclamen from bulbs, or via transplanting – growing from seed is a whole different ball game, and we’ve not covered that here. You can buy young cyclamen plants from traditional garden centres, online merchants and everywhere in between. You can also buy young plants that need to be transplanted, a process which is quite easy. Soil Requirements All the varieties featured above are happy in loamy, sandy, clayey, or chalky soil. Cyclamens prefer well-drained soil but are not fussy when it comes to pH levels. Where To Plant Although different varieties flower at different times, try to avoid mixing varieties in the same area. Intuitively, this seems like a way to alternate flowering seasons and guarantee colour year-round, but what actually happens is that one variety will dominate – and eventually kill off – the other. With this in mind, you’ll want to leave about a metre between varieties. Because cyclamen is quite a low-profile plant, many gardeners use it as ground cover for roses or other taller plants. Most varieties will thrive in partial shade, with west, south, or east-facing aspects, and a bit of shelter. The space underneath a tree can often be ideal, as Horticultural Consultant Colin Skelly explains: “I tend to plant Cyclamen underneath deciduous trees or shrubs because they provide a sheltered environment in summer and winter, provide leaf mulch and a bright winter environment where they can flower whilst most other plants have died back.” Again, double-check the preferences of the varieties you’re considering incorporating into your garden. When To Plant To give your cyclamens the best shot, you’ll want to plant them in autumn, winter (if the ground allows), or early spring. These plants shouldn’t present too much of a challenge, as long as you choose a spot that’s not too sunny. Planting Out As we’re discussing either bulbs or young plants in this article, your first step when planting cyclamen is to dig a hole. Then, whack in a bit of gravel and sand at the bottom to provide drainage. Cyclamen bulbs are prone to rotting if they’re overwatered, so this is important. Next, plop the bulb at the bottom of the hole, or push down the young plant until it’s securely in the ground, then gather soil around the top and water thoroughly. It’s recommended that you wait until your bulb (or tuber) is showing roots. This helps you to distinguish the top from the bottom and improves the chance of successful growth. Plant Hardiness Amongst the varieties above, the hardiness rating varies between H1C and H4. You can grow plants with the former rating outdoors in summer, with a preferred minimum temperature range of 5-10°C. Plants rated H4 are suited to the UK climate year-round, excepting very extreme conditions. Depending on your location and needs, your ideal hardiness rating will vary. We always recommend researching the properties of the specific varieties you’re interested in, and choosing the most suitable. Cyclamen Plant Care This plant thrives with even watering and cool temperatures. It will die back out of season: the leaves will die away, and it may look like hope is lost for another year of colour, but be patient. The bulbs will flower again, and the plant will return to its former glory. Mulching in winter with leaf-mould will nourish the soil around your cyclamens and help them to grow back big and strong next year. Pruning Remove all dead plant matter during the down season for aesthetic reasons. The cyclamen family is bursting with attractive and relatively easy-to-grow plants that will bring colour and excitement to your garden. A careful selection of varieties will ensure visual interest year-round, and with a little bit of care, you should be on track for healthy and rewarding plants. We hope this cyclamen growing guide has been a useful starting point. Enjoy your gardening! References 1. Cyclamen – Cyclamen hederaefolium. (n.d.). Brickfield Spark. Retrieved March 14, 2023, from https://www.brickfieldspark.org/data/cyclamen.htm 2. Yesson, C., & Culham, A. (2006). A phyloclimatic study of Cyclamen. BMC Evolutionary Biology, 6(1), 72. https://doi.org/10.1186/1471-2148-6-72 3. Cyclamen L. (n.d.). Kew Royal Botanic Gardens. Retrieved May 15, 2023, from https://powo.science.kew.org/taxon/urn:lsid:ipni.org:names:32774-1#children
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How To Grow Wisteria - Choose These Types For Cascading, Beautifully Fragrant Flowers
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Wisteria Varieties How To Grow Wisteria Wisteria Care References Effortlessly beautiful and timelessly charming, Wisteria is famously known for the pendulous clusters of lilac, white or bluish flowers it produces in late spring and early summer. Often seen draping itself over arches and pergolas or climbing its way up the walls of a country cottage, wisteria is a serious showstopper. Across our wisteria guides, we’ve partnered with Chris O’Keefe, Owner of The London Wisteria Company and O’Keefe Gardens Limited. “There is nothing like the scent and feeling wisteria gives you whilst in bloom,” Chris says. “I’m lucky to live and work in central London where, in spring, places such as Chelsea and Kensington are in full bloom with wisteria showcasing the frontage of many homes.” Overview Botanical Name Wisteria Plant Type Climber Native Area East Asia, Eastern United States Hardiness Rating H6 Foliage Pinnate leaves Flowers Racemes of purple, pea-like flowers When To Sow January, February, March, April, October, November, December Flowering Months May, June Wisteria is a vigorous climbing shrub, and is actually a legume, making it part of the pea family (Fabaceae).1 As previously mentioned, wisteria adorns itself with cascading, beautifully fragrant lilac, blue or white flowers. The stems are stiff and woody, and the trunks can become as thick as a small tree. There are ten species of wisteria, with the most popular and widespread being native to China, Japan and North America.2 Wisteria Varieties With ten species to choose from, it could be hard to know where to start. We’ve chosen a few of the most popular to grow: Chinese Wisteria Botanical Name: W. sinensis This wisteria twines itself anti-clockwise and can grow from about ten to twenty-five feet, sometimes even higher. It can also be trained horizontally over the same distance making it a popular choice for a wall or side of a house. The chains of fragrant flowers, which are violet in colour, grow to about a foot in length and bloom in late spring or early summer gradually over a few weeks. This species has small oval-shaped leaves that usually will be bronze in colour when they are young. Japanese Wisteria Botanical Name: W. floribunda The Japanese wisteria can grow up to 30 feet or higher and will also grow the same amount horizontally. This species twines clockwise and has oval leaves that turn a beautiful yellow colour in autumn. The flowers are usually violet and heavily scented, and their blooms last much longer than their Chinese counterpart. This is a reliable choice and is wonderfully decorative and perfect for arches. Silky Wisteria Botanical Name: W. brachybotrys This Chinese wisteria variety twines anticlockwise, with fine, silky-soft leaves. Hence its name. The lilac or white flowers bloom from late spring to early summer, and the bloom will improve with age. The clusters of flowers grow to about six inches in length and are strongly scented. The silky wisteria grows to twenty-five feet and often higher and is perfect for walls. Kentucky Wisteria Botanical Name: W. frutescens var. macrostachya This American species is native to the midwest, Louisiana and Texas. It twines anticlockwise, and its pale violet flowers bloom in late spring or early summer. The clusters grow to the length of up to one foot. This wisteria can grow from fifteen to twenty-five feet and will often bloom again during the growing season. American Wisteria Botanical Name: W. frutescens A native to the eastern parts of the United States, this wisteria twines anticlockwise and grows from ten to thirty feet. It has lilac-blue flowers, blooming in clusters of four to six inches and are not generally heavily scented. This species will bloom primarily in late spring and then sporadically throughout summer. How To Grow Wisteria While it is possible to plant and grow wisteria from seeds, you should expect to wait up to twenty years for its famous flowers to bloom (typical estimates range from 10-20 years).3 For this reason, we recommend that you buy a plant raised by grafting. However, be aware that even with a grafted plant, you may have to wait up to five years for it to bloom. “Wisterias must surely have a little ticking clock inside them,” says Peter Lickorish, a Horticultural Consultant. “My Wisteria flowered for the first time exactly five years after planting it, to almost within a month, and has flowered abundantly since. It really is like the flick of a switch.” The best time to plant wisteria is between October and April, although if you opt to grow it in a container, you can do this at any time of year. Garden Planting You will want to plant your wisteria in fertile, well-drained soil and preferably in a south or west-facing direction. Being the vigorous climber that it is you will need to support them against a wall, or another garden structure, wires or even a tree. Full sunshine is preferable, but they will tolerate a little shade. Although this may reduce their flowering. Container Growing As mentioned, if you are planting in a container, this can be done any time of year. That said, wisterias are easier to care for in the autumn and winter months. The container should be at least eighteen inches in depth and should be filled with a loam-based potting compost. Do be aware that a container-grown wisteria will not be as successful as those planted in a garden. Wisteria Care Now you’ve planted your gorgeous wisteria, the next step is learning how to care for it. Watering Wisterias can dry out quickly, especially in sandy or light soil. Make sure you water them frequently, especially during dry spells. Feeding In springtime, we recommend a high potash feed to encourage those gorgeous flowers. Rose or flowering shrub fertiliser will also work. If you are growing your wisteria in a container, then liquid tomato fertiliser is ideal. You could also use slow-release fertiliser in compost. Propagating As previously mentioned, wisteria grown from seed is said to take up to twenty years to flower, so if you want to share the wealth with friends and family or just stock up for yourself, then we recommend taking softwood or hardwood cuttings. Take softwood cuttings in spring to mid-summer, and hardwood cuttings in winter. If you’d like to try growing from seed, collect the bean-like seed pods from an established plant, then place in a tray to allow them to ripen. Next, gently open the pod and place in compost at a depth of about two centimetres. If you find, upon opening the pod, that the seed is dry, then place in water and soak it for 24 hours before planting. References 1. Harris, S. (n.d.-f). Wisteria sinensis. Oxford University Plants. Retrieved March 27, 2023, from https://herbaria.plants.ox.ac.uk/bol/plants400/Profiles/WX/Wisteria 2. Utah State University. (2022, August 3). Wisteria in the Garden. Retrieved March 27, 2023, from https://extension.usu.edu/yardandgarden/research/wisteria-in-the-garden 3. How to grow wisteria. (n.d.). Royal Horticultural Society. Retrieved March 27, 2023, from https://www.rhs.org.uk/plants/wisteria/growing-guide
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Tomatoes In Hanging Baskets: A 9 Step Space-Saving Solution For Home Growing
IN THIS GUIDE Why Choose Hanging Baskets? How To Grow Tomatoes In Hanging Baskets 1) Choose Your Variety 2) Sow Your Seeds 3) Choose Your Hanging Basket 4) Line Your Basket 5) Prepare Your Compost 6) Plant Your Tomatoes 7) Hang Your Toms In Their New Home 8) Water Regularly 9) Harvest! Which Tomatoes Can You Grow In A Hanging Basket? Companion Plants For Tomatoes Let It All Hang Out! References There’s nothing tastier than a nicely ripened home-grown tomato. They’re juicier, stronger tasting, and more vibrantly coloured than the ones you find in supermarkets which – let’s face it – are sometimes bordering on anaemic. But how do you grow tomatoes in hanging baskets? What’s required to achieve your own tumbling cornucopia of juicy garden goodness? We’ve written this guide to answer all the questions you might have about growing tomatoes in a hanging basket. Learn how to grow your own bountiful harvest Why Choose Hanging Baskets? Not everyone with a green thumb has access to a garden, or even to an allotment or other shared gardening space. For those amongst us with balconies or whose front doors open right onto the street, the solution lies elsewhere. A hanging basket is a great space-saving gardening solution. You can grow a surprising amount in a compact space. You can hang baskets from purpose-built hooks mounted on walls, or from existing surfaces like beams, branches, rafters, and more. If you’re a more casual gardener and you don’t want to commit to hardcore gardening, hanging baskets are less prone to weeds and pests. Slugs and snails find it harder to reach the tasty morsels growing within, and although flying pests can find their way up, you can grow scented plants alongside your tomatoes to put them off. More on that later! How To Grow Tomatoes In Hanging Baskets Maybe you’ve not grown an edible hanging basket before? Fret not: It’s quick and cheap to set up, and it’s easy enough to be accessible for gardeners of any level. Here are nine steps to growing tomatoes in a hanging basket: 1) Choose Your Variety It’s important you choose a variety of tomato that is well suited to hanging baskets. Ordinary tomatoes such as ‘Gardener’s Delight’ are typically staked and will need support as they grow upwards, meaning they are not suited to growing in hanging baskets. Varieties that are best for hanging baskets include ‘Tumbling Tom’, ‘Hundreds & Thousands’, ‘Garden Pearl’ and more. These are bush or indeterminate varieties. For the purposes of this guide, we decided to grow ‘Tumbling Toms’, which are widely available here in the UK. 2) Sow Your Seeds Your seeds will need to be grown indoors in the UK – with February being the best time to get started. Tomatoes love a lot of light and a humid, moist environment, so a propagator with LED lighting will provide the best results. Sow multiple seeds per plug and thin these out as they begin to grow, choosing to spare the strongest seedlings. 3) Choose Your Hanging Basket There are tons of hanging baskets available to buy online. Many are semi-spherical and made of thin metal wiring. We recommend a basket of 35cm in diameter or above to give your tomato plants the space they need to grow. Choose a deeper basket too, if possible, as this will help with moisture retention – as long as your brackets are strong enough! In this example, we chose a wicker basket suited for indoor growing. 4) Line Your Basket Some baskets come with lining already. If your basket has a solid brown layer on top of the metal frame, for example, this is probably coconut coir (or fibre). If this is the case, you don’t need to add anything else. If your basket doesn’t come pre-lined, you can use a compost or soil bag that’s been cut to size. Make sure to add some small holes to give your tomatoes the chance to drain. 5) Prepare Your Compost Potting soil will do the trick here. Make sure it’s good quality. Preparing the compost can be as simple as checking you have enough to fit in your basket. A 35cm basket will hold just under 8 litres of compost and a 40 litre bag of potting soil will fill about five baskets. There are a few optional extras at this step, too. Each of these will give your tomatoes an easier time: Water retaining gel: This will allow water to be released more slowly than otherwise, ensuring your plants stay hydrated Rotted leaf mould: A natural alternative to the above. Slow-release fertiliser: To add a steady stream of nutrients to the soil while your tomatoes are growing. 6) Plant Your Tomatoes Here’s the main event! In this step, we’ll plant out the tomatoes into their lovely new home. Gently remove the tomato plant from its pot, along with the soil and roots. Tease the roots away from the clump of soil to prevent cramping and promote healthier root growth. Next, create a hollow in the soil with your fingers and pop the tomato inside. Firm up the soil around the roots, so that your tomatoes are firmly in place but not squashed. You can add more soil at this stage if needed. Tomato plants will do well if they’re planted reasonably deep, as they’re prone to put out strong roots. You can safely fit one or two plants into a 35cm hanging basket, although Master Horticulturist Peter Lickorish does not recommend this: “Besides other companion plants, one tomato plant is probably the maximum for most hanging baskets, unless the diameter is nudging 50cm, where a triangle of three could be planted.” 7) Hang Your Toms In Their New Home Use the chain or similar method of attachment to hang your basket – and take a moment to appreciate your handiwork. (You can also use this moment to make sure the hook is definitely strong enough to hold the completed basket..!) 8) Water Regularly Once planted, give your tomato plant a generous amount of water. The roots will be thirstiest at this stage, so you’re giving them the best chance of a healthy start in life. For the first week or so, we recommend watering your tomato plant every day. Also, keep an eye out for flowers, and add tomato feed once they begin to appear. Reapplying feed each week will give you healthy and delicious tomatoes in no time. 9) Harvest! Once your tomatoes are ready to eat, it’s just a case of picking them as and when you fancy. They last quite a long time on the plant so don’t feel rushed to pick your tomatoes. Generally, it’s better to leave them ripening on the plant than sitting in the fridge. However, they will ripen further after picking, if harvested early, and this may reduce the chance of fruit splitting. If it’s the first time you’ve grown your own tomatoes, savour each bite and enjoy how juicy and succulent they are. Which Tomatoes Can You Grow In A Hanging Basket? Regular tomato plants won’t thrive in baskets. For the best results, choose a cherry tomato variety. Tomatoes that lend themselves best to hanging baskets have been bred to tumble, meaning they don’t need to be supported while growing. Some types also crop earlier in the year than ground equivalents, meaning you can enjoy tomatoes for more of the year. Here are a few varieties to consider: ‘Hundreds and Thousands’: Sweet and noted to be particularly flavoursome by a trained panel of tomato tasters, this variety is a good bet for hanging baskets. Just understand that ‘thousands’ is a name, not a promise of yield. ‘Tumbling Tom’: Whether you choose ‘Tumbling Tom Red’, Yellow, or both, you can expect a flavourful and confident crop. Mixing the two varieties together gives the excellent potential for a particularly colourful display. ‘Maskotka’: Renowned for deep-red fruits that tumble elegantly over the sides of a basket, ‘Maskotka’ is a great choice for vertical gardeners. You can expect a fairly large yield, too, especially compared with some other types. ‘Garden Pearl’: The heart-shaped fruits win plaudits from the tomato-tasting panel who liked ‘Hundreds and Thousands’ so much. If you want a tomato with its own brand of visual interest, ‘Garden Pearl’ could be for you. Tomato plants will grow best in baskets when they’re planted in early summer. Frost can be fatal for fledgeling flowers, so planting them out when the weather is warmer gives the best chance for a healthy start in life. A hanging basket is more exposed to the weather than a plant in the ground, so if there are particularly chilly winds when you’re thinking of planting, maybe wait a few days. Companion Plants For Tomatoes You can add other plants to your hanging basket, too. If the intent behind your basket is to bring colour and visual interest to an outdoor space, there are aesthetic considerations. Plants with complementary colours will look great alongside your tomatoes. Oranges, yellows, and reds will create medleys of colour that are a pleasure to behold. If you’re motivated mainly by the culinary eventualities, though, then taste and scent considerations will probably be a priority. You can choose plants whose flavours work well with tomato when cooking. Basil, for example, or any of myriad salad leaves. In terms of scent, I will commonly grow French Marigolds alongside tomatoes grown outside, as these are a very good match. They carry the additional benefit of deterring flying pests, too. Let It All Hang Out! As you can probably tell, there are a lot of options when growing tomatoes in hanging baskets. You need to decide which variety to grow and whether to grow them alone or with other plants. You need to decide the best place to hang your basket, and the type of basket you want in the first place. Hopefully, after reading this guide, though, you’ll realise that the underlying methodology for growing tomatoes in baskets is simple. It’s quick, cheap, and the return on investment is potentially enormous. We hope you’ve found this guide useful, and that you enjoy many a bountiful tomato harvest from your newly planted baskets.
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These Are The 10 Fastest Growing Trees According To The Urban Forest Research Group
IN THIS GUIDE Choosing The Best Fast-Growing Trees 1) Silver Birch 2) Ash 3) ‘Nellie R. Stevens’ Holly 4) Italian Cypress 5) Sycamore 6) Weeping Willow 7) Golden Bamboo 8) Beech 9) Tulip Poplar 10) Pleached Hornbeam References If our bodies are temples and our houses are castles, then gardens must be our sanctuaries. Though many of us love showing off our gardens to friends and family, a garden should also be a secluded space just for you. Many of us choose fences or walls to secure our personal perimeter but sometimes that doesn’t feel quite enough. Trees are one fully-natural solution to this problem, but who wants to wait ten to twenty years for your privacy to be perfected? Thankfully, for those of us keen to hurry the process of privacy along, there are some speedy trees that will satisfy even the most impatient gardener among us. “The speed of growth will reflect the longevity of your tree,” adds Colin Skelly, a Master Horticulturist. “This reflects the growth strategy of the tree from an evolutionary perspective. “Birches are trees that grow quickly to take advantage of disturbed ground but tend to have a relatively short life span (decades) whilst beech grow more slowly but will achieve a greater stature as mature woodland trees and live longer. “This is worth bearing in mind when considering where, why and how long you want it to be in your garden.” Choosing The Best Fast-Growing Trees We examined research by the Urban Forest Research Group which observed the growth rate of trees in urban British environments, before comparing these findings with research from various horticultural research bodies and tree nurseries.1 From this research, we then identified ten trees which have a high annual growth rate in the UK. Here is each type of tree, ordered by their average growth in height each year: Tree Average Tree Height Increment Per Year (Centimetres) Maximum Height (Metres) Silver Birch 100.0 30 Ash 92.6 35 Nellie R.Stevens Holly 91.4 9 Italian Cypress 91.1 15 Sycamore 84.0 35 Weeping Willow 82.5 12 Golden Bamboo 75.0 12 Beech 64.3 40 Tulip Poplar 60.9 40 Pleached Hornbeam 50.0 30 You can see from these findings that Silver Birch, Ash and Nellie R.Stevens Holly are three of the fastest-growing trees to grow in the UK climate. Below we introduce each type of tree in more detail, including imagery, growth statistics and growing advice for each. 1) Silver Birch BOTANICAL NAME: BETULA PENDULA HARDINESS RATING: H7 ESTIMATED ANNUAL GROWTH RATE: 100CM MAXIMUM HEIGHT: 30M YEARS TO EVENTUAL HEIGHT: 30-50 According to Plants for a Future (PFAF), Betula pendula (more commonly known as ‘Silver Birch’) can grow up to 1M in height per year.2 That is a staggering rate of growth, though if you’re interested in growing new trees for privacy reasons, you should bear in mind that the foliage of silver birch can be sparse, especially as a deciduous tree that drops its leaves each year. With an ultimate maximum height of 30m, it shouldn’t be grown in small spaces unless confined to a container.3 2) Ash BOTANICAL NAME: FRAXINUS EXCELSIOR HARDINESS RATING: H6 ESTIMATED ANNUAL GROWTH RATE: 92.6CM MAXIMUM HEIGHT: 35M YEARS TO EVENTUAL HEIGHT: 30-50 Ash trees were named in the study by the Urban Forest Research Group as the tree with the second highest Average Tree Height Increment per year – at 0.926m. These medium-to-large sized trees form a domed canopy with light green, oval foliage. The trees are deciduous and will usually lose their leaves in Autumn. They will usually take 30-50 years to reach their eventual height which should top-out at 35m.4 3) ‘Nellie R. Stevens’ Holly BOTANICAL NAME: ILEX ‘NELLIE R.STEVENS’ HARDINESS RATING: H6 ESTIMATED ANNUAL GROWTH RATE: 91.4CM MAXIMUM HEIGHT: 9M YEARS TO EVENTUAL HEIGHT: 15-25 Holly trees are a favourite amongst us Brits, especially during the festive season, when their red berries attract bold robins into our gardens. There are many types of Holly, but if it’s speed you’re after, then look no further than the ‘Nellie R. Stevens’ cultivar. Growing up to 0.9m per year and up to an admirable height of 9m, this tree is perfect for providing privacy to both upper and lower windows.5 And, come Christmas time, the branches can be pruned and fashioned into adorable, handmade, decorations. What’s more, those spiky leaves act as a natural security system! 4) Italian Cypress BOTANICAL NAME: CUPRESSUS SEMPERVIRENS HARDINESS RATING: H5 ESTIMATED ANNUAL GROWTH RATE: 91.1CM MAXIMUM HEIGHT: 15M YEARS TO EVENTUAL HEIGHT: 20-50 The Italian Cypress is a wonderful screening tree. While most evergreens grow in a pyramidal shape, this specimen grows straight up in a narrow column. A resilient tree – particularly to drought – the Cypress is also extremely low maintenance. The only attention it needs is a little pruning, and all that requires is cutting the head off when it has reached your desired height. Most importantly, this tree grows at an annual rate of roughly 0.9m.6 At full maturity, it can reach a height of up to 15m.7 5) Sycamore BOTANICAL NAME: ACER PSEUDOPLATANUS HARDINESS RATING: H7 ESTIMATED ANNUAL GROWTH RATE: 84.0CM MAXIMUM HEIGHT: 35M YEARS TO EVENTUAL HEIGHT: 50+ Next up is the Sycamore – the second tree praised for its growth rate in research by the Urban Forest Research Group. They found that this tree would grow at a rate of up to 840cm per year. As a native of North America, the tree is very much at home here in the UK climate, with a hardiness rating of H7. The maximum height of 35m means this tree should only be grown in an area with room to accommodate its height and spread.8 6) Weeping Willow BOTANICAL NAME: SALIX BABYLONICA HARDINESS RATING: H5 ESTIMATED ANNUAL GROWTH RATE: 82.5CM MAXIMUM HEIGHT: 12M YEARS TO EVENTUAL HEIGHT: 30-50 The Weeping Willow is a champion of fast-growing trees. Ideal for larger gardens, this swift-growing sapling can grow a whopping 82.5cm a year, reach lofty heights of 12m and span an astonishing ten!9 You can expect to see foliage as early as February, and in April and May you will be treated to delicate yellow blossoms. Do take care of where you plant this glorious giant, as its roots have a tendency to spread far and wide. This is a beautiful solution for those looking to regain their privacy. 7) Golden Bamboo BOTANICAL NAME: PHYLLOSTACHYS AUREA HARDINESS RATING: H6 ESTIMATED ANNUAL GROWTH RATE: 75.0CM MAXIMUM HEIGHT: 12M YEARS TO EVENTUAL HEIGHT: 8-10 A quirky alternative to more traditional trees, this evergreen grows at an impressive rate of between 0.6-0.9m a year.10 It can very quickly grow to a height of up to 12m, but its fast-growing properties mean it is actually classed as an invasive plant by the CABI.11 Growing in pots offers an ideal compromise, as this prevents the spread of bamboo rhizomes underground. Though not technically a tree, bamboo certainly fits the bill for screening your garden. This sturdy plant is extremely easy to grow and requires little-to-no maintenance. The stems and lush leaves emerge green but, given enough sunlight, will turn a golden yellow as it ages, hence the name. 8) Beech BOTANICAL NAME: FAGUS SYLVATICA HARDINESS RATING: H6 ESTIMATED ANNUAL GROWTH RATE: 64.3CM MAXIMUM HEIGHT: 40M YEARS TO EVENTUAL HEIGHT: 20-50 Fagus sylvatica – or the Common Beech – is a large deciduous tree that will lose its leaves in autumn. It has a broad crown and produces flowers in spring and edible beechnut fruit in autumn, making them extremely popular with local wildlife. These trees grow at an annual rate of roughly 0.6m, meaning they will soon grow to a reasonable size. After 20-50 years, they should reach their staggering ultimate height of up to 40m!12 9) Tulip Poplar BOTANICAL NAME: LIRIODENDRON TULIPIFERA HARDINESS RATING: H6 ESTIMATED ANNUAL GROWTH RATE: 60.9CM MAXIMUM HEIGHT: 40M YEARS TO EVENTUAL HEIGHT: 20-50 Not only is this tree ideal for concealing whatever unsightly thing has stolen your view, but the Tulip Poplar is also a real statement piece. Blossoming in spring, it boasts glorious yellow and green flowers. Then, during the summer months, its lush leaves provide cooling shade. Finally, come Autumn, it’s leaves turn to glorious golden hues. Growing at a satisfying 0.6m a year and reaching heady heights of up to 40m, this deliciously fragrant tree will be your saviour – obscuring any unsavoury view whilst simultaneously impressing any green-fingered friends.13 10) Pleached Hornbeam BOTANICAL NAME: CARPINUS BETULUS HARDINESS RATING: H7 ESTIMATED ANNUAL GROWTH RATE: 50.0CM MAXIMUM HEIGHT: 30M YEARS TO EVENTUAL HEIGHT: 50+ Whilst the aim of the game may be to camouflage your window, you also don’t want to completely block out the light. A row of Pleached Hornbeam is an ideal solution, giving you excellent coverage without throwing you completely into darkness. “I often pleach trees because in a small garden, if you put in a natural hornbeam tree, there would be no sun left, whereas if you use a pleached tree, you are just sheltering the part of the garden you don’t want to be overlooked,” shares Landscape Architect Bunny Guinness. “Sometimes, to get extra height, we put them in raised containers. “You can train them yourselves and they will grow very fast, as you are pruning out any growth that grows outwards to focus on upward growth.” Growing up to 50cm, annually this Hornbeam isn’t our fastest-growing tree, however, it really is perfect for more modest-sized gardens, and is particularly popular among city gardeners.14 References 1. Determining Tree Growth in the Urban Forest. (n.d.). Treeconomics. Retrieved March 15, 2023, from https://www.treeconomics.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/Determing-Tree-Growth-in-Urban-Forest.pdf 2. Betula pendula. (n.d.). PFAF. Retrieved March 15, 2023, from https://pfaf.org/user/Plant.aspx?LatinName=Betula+pendula 3. Silver Birch (Betula pendula). (n.d.). Woodland Trust. Retrieved March 15, 2023, from https://www.woodlandtrust.org.uk/trees-woods-and-wildlife/british-trees/a-z-of-british-trees/silver-birch/ 4. Ash (Fraxinus excelsior). (n.d.). Woodland Trust. Retrieved March 15, 2023, from https://www.woodlandtrust.org.uk/trees-woods-and-wildlife/british-trees/a-z-of-british-trees/ash/ 5. Everything To Know About The Nellie Stevens Holly. (2021, September 29). The Tree Center. Retrieved March 15, 2023, from https://www.thetreecenter.com/nellie-stevens-holly-complete-guide/ 6. Italian Cypress. (n.d.). Fast Growing Trees. Retrieved March 15, 2023, from https://www.fast-growing-trees.com/products/italiancypress?variant=13940765851700 7. Italian Cypress. (n.d.-b). University of Redlands. Retrieved March 15, 2023, from https://sites.redlands.edu/trees/species-accounts/italian-cypress/ 8. Sycamore (Acer pseudoplatanus). (n.d.). Woodland Trust. Retrieved March 15, 2023, from https://www.woodlandtrust.org.uk/trees-woods-and-wildlife/british-trees/a-z-of-british-trees/sycamore/ 9. Weeping Willow Tree. (n.d.). Arbor Day Foundation. Retrieved March 15, 2023, from https://www.arborday.org/trees/treeguide/TreeDetail.cfm?ItemID=938 10. Bamboo – Golden. (n.d.). Hedges Direct. Retrieved March 15, 2023, from https://www.hedgesdirect.co.uk/acatalog/Golden-Bamboo-Phyllostachys-aurea.html 11. Rickel, C., & Rojas-Sandoval, J. (2022b, January 7). Phyllostachys aurea (golden bamboo). CABI Compendium. https://doi.org/10.1079/cabicompendium.42072 12. Beech, common (Fagus sylvatica). (n.d.). Woodland Trust. Retrieved March 15, 2023, from https://www.woodlandtrust.org.uk/trees-woods-and-wildlife/british-trees/a-z-of-british-trees/common-beech/ 13. Liriodendron tulipifera. (n.d.). Deepdale Trees. Retrieved March 15, 2023, from https://www.deepdale-trees.co.uk/trees/2010/07-Liriodendron-tulipifera.html 14. Hornbeam (Carpinus Betulus) Hedge. (n.d.). Hedge Plants. Retrieved March 15, 2023, from https://www.hedgeplants-heijnen.co.uk/beech/hornbeam-carpinus-betulus
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Here's What These Sedum Growers Argue Are The Most Essential Rules For Thriving Plants
IN THIS GUIDE Overview How To Grow Sedum Planting Sedum Care Common Problems Sedum – or stonecrop – is a popular succulent. They’re resistant to heat, drought, and other harsh conditions, making them great plants for beginners. One of the reasons this plant is so popular is its enormous versatility in appearance. Some varieties sport jelly-bean-like buds, while others have hugely flamboyant yellow flowers which seem to paint sunshine right across your garden. “Sedum is a large genus with a huge variety of species that include types for succulent collectors through to hugely popular garden favourites,” shares Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly. “As a garden perennial, they are tough, drought tolerant when established and provide beautiful late summer flowers.” For this guide, we’ve worked with some of the most experienced sedum growers in the UK: Ray Stephenson – Editor and Chairman of The Sedum Society. Niamh Mullally – Owner of Southwold Succulent Co. “The palette of colours, especially on the evergreen varieties, makes me particularly passionate about growing sedums,” says Niamh. “Once established, maintenance is minimal, and they have a great capacity to thrive in droughts and survive harsh winter conditions.” Overview Botanical Name Sedum Plant Type Succulent Native Area Mostly northern hemisphere; Africa and South America Hardiness Rating Various Foliage Succulent leaves and stems Flowers Various When To Sow April, May Flowering Months June, July, August, September, October Although the sedum genus also includes annual and biennial plants, the majority of popular varieties are perennial. Before choosing your Sedum variety, bear in mind the wide range of potential aesthetics. Researching the varieties available, and understanding what each will look like throughout its lifetime, is a key part of choosing the right Stonecrop for your garden. This is especially true if you’re planning to create a succulent display or rock garden, something along the lines of the image above. Whatever variety you choose, you can expect carpets of colour from yellows and oranges, to reds and pinks – and even turquoises, blues and greys. How To Grow Sedum Sedum doesn’t grow as large as some other plants. The maximum height for the varieties above is about 0.5m, although many will be smaller. People enjoy Stonecrops for their mat-forming tendencies – giving you low, wide spreads of colour and visual interest. “Grow Sedums in your garden for a drought-proof, bug-proof, windproof, hardy, late-summer spectacular in full sun on average soil,” says Katherine Crouch, an award-winning garden designer. “Neither fussy nor invasive, you can split your sedum every three years and it won’t splay.” If after reading this far you’ve decided to introduce a Sedum to your garden, here’s what you need to know. Hardiness Each of the varieties above has a hardiness rating of H5 or higher, meaning they can survive down to -10°C – or pretty much everything a British winter can throw at them. Several varieties are rated H6 or H7, meaning they’ll still manage down to below -20°C. Soil Requirements “I recommend John Innes no 3,” says Niamh. “When combined with perlite, it’s sufficiently free-draining whilst being a permanent planting medium.” All the varieties above will do just fine in sand or loam, with others being happy in chalk or clay as well. They’re generally not fussy about pH, with most varieties accepting alkaline or neutral soil. A couple can manage acidic, too – best to check the specific needs of the variety you choose. The most important thing when planting a Sedum is the moisture level. “Concentrate on your soil mix. Never use multi-purpose compost and make sure it’s free draining before you plant,” warns Niamh. Your soil should be well-drained, but this isn’t a plant that will grow well in waterlogged or even overly moist soils. Planting Most Stonecrop varieties require full sunlight to thrive, although a few can make do in partial shade. All of those above will grow well while facing south, but beyond that, there’s no hard-and-fast rule for which direction your Stonecrop should face. Some in our list are quite versatile, being able to cope with three or even four directions. Others are fussier, and will only grow their best in a south-facing aspect. Our advice is to look at specific information for the variety of Stonecrop you’re planning to plant. Plant Out In Spring The best time to plant a Stonecrop is spring, after the risk of frost has passed and before summer starts to heat up. Make sure to plant out in the correct soil conditions, as newly-planted Stonecrops will be most liable to damage. Planting Out When planting from seed, leave at least 15cm of space between each plant. Also make sure to read up on your variety, because certain ones need more space – sometimes up to 60cm. If you’re growing from a division taken from another Sedum plant, ensure the whole root ball is covered by soil. The hole should be deep enough that the entire root ball is buried just below the surface. Cuttings are even more straightforward: just place the cutting in the hole and cover it over. If soil conditions are correct, then your plant should take root easily. Sedum Care Newly planted Stonecrop plants need a bit of TLC to become properly established. Keep a careful eye on the soil moisture levels, making equally sure that they don’t stay too wet or get too dry. Once your plant is established, you don’t need to be quite so vigilant about moisture levels. Sedums are succulents, after all: a type of plant noted for its ability to weather drought and retain water for dry spells. Sedums will appreciate a layer of compost being added to the soil once a year. Avoid anything too high in nitrogen, as this can cause wilting. If you’re growing your sedums in a container, Niamh has the following advice: “In Suffolk, I use 40% soil to 60% perlite for my growing medium. This ratio can be increased to 20/80 if you’re in a wetter area. “Keep a bag of horticultural grit in your shed or greenhouse. The grit level may drop after a harsh winter and a top-up in springtime will revive your containers.” Pruning Stonecrops can be safely pruned back to keep them from getting unruly. If you’re planning to prune, deadhead after flowering. There’s no need to do this, however, and the choice is purely aesthetic. Some gardeners prefer to leave the fading flowers to add a bit of extra colour. Common Problems Stonecrops are relatively well-behaved when it comes to pests. However, Ray explains that the problems that might face sedums vary massively depending on the variety. “Some varieties need specialised horticulture, whilst others are difficult to kill. You need to know the requirements of the one you are growing.” Take the usual garden precautions, and you should be able to avoid spending your whole life battling pests and infestations. As we’ve said throughout this guide: your best bet is to look at specifics for the type(s) you’ll be planting in your garden. Some are renowned for being pest-free, while others have slightly higher tendencies of attracting certain critters. Knowing which precautions you should take can help you to avoid problems before they arise. Here’s what to look out for: Glasshouse Whitefly This is a sap-feeding insect that likes to suck the life-giving nectar out of all sorts of plants. Sadly, certain varieties of Stonecrop are on their preferred menu. Sometimes you’ll see the insects themselves – small, with white wings. Other times you may notice their calling card – sticky residue on your plants. Once whiteflies establish themselves, they can be hard to remove. Deliberately introducing small wasps is one way to control this pest (you can order them online). Alternatively, certain organic sprays can bring them under control. The best way to avoid whiteflies is to keep on top of weeding, and checking bought plants for any signs of infestation before planting them out. Aphids These fellas also like to suck sap, and are also attracted to certain varieties of Stonecrop. As with whiteflies, you’ll usually be able to see aphids with the naked eye – they’re small and green, and hang around on the leaves of plants they’re feasting on. If your Stonecrop looks weak or generally unhealthy and you can’t see any aphids, take a closer look – sometimes they lurk out of sight. Small amounts of aphids can be tolerated, but if they start to get out of control, certain pesticides can be used to remove them. The health of your plant is the benchmark of whether an infestation is getting out of control. Glasshouse Red Spider Mite Yet another bug that will help itself to the sap from your Stonecrop’s leaves, the glasshouse red spider mite is worth keeping an eye out for. The symptoms will be similar to previous pests in this list: an unhealthy plant with stunted growth, with a possibly mottled appearance. This mite thrives in warm conditions, so an outdoor plant will probably be safe in winter. If your Sedum is growing in a greenhouse, keep a lookout all year round. Removing infected plants immediately is a good way to prevent further spread; otherwise, predatory mites and certain types of pesticides offer effective control.
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Growing Advice For Mexican Orange Blossom - A Sweet-Smelling Evergreen Shrub
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Plant Care Aspect & Exposure Watering & Fertilising When To Plant Propagating Guidelines Common Diseases & Problems References Choisya ternata, better known as Mexican Orange Blossom, is an evergreen shrub with divided leaves and small white flowers, which produce a sweet fragrance. The plant flowers in spring, and sometimes again in autumn, so it’s a great way to add colour to your garden over multiple seasons. It makes a pretty, ornamental addition to garden borders and courtyards, and looks good in combination with other flowering plants, such as geraniums and irises. It is a hardy plant, and relatively easy to grow in the UK, providing you have a sunny location that’s sheltered from the wind. It is drought tolerant and requires very little maintenance once established. If you want to add this sweet-smelling shrub to your garden, check out our full Mexican Orange Blossom care and growing guide below. We’ve included everything from ideal growing conditions and methods of propagation, to feeding requirements and common pests. Overview Botanical Name Choisya ternata Common Name(s) Mexican Orange Blossom Plant Type Shrub Native Area United States & Mexico Hardiness Rating H4 Foliage Evergreen Flowers Star-shaped, white flowers When To Sow April, May, September, October Flowering Months May, June Choisya ternata originates from the South-West of the United States and Mexico – which is where it gets its other name: ‘Mexican Orange Blossom’.1 The plant is part of the Rutaceae family, and there are several additional cultivars, including ‘Sundance’, ‘Moonshine’, and ‘Brica’.2 ’Aztec pearl’ The ‘Aztec Pearl’ variety is a smaller cultivar, with finer foliage. It is a medium-sized shrub that grows relatively quickly, reaching up to 2.5m in height, and approximately 2.5m in spread – although smaller growing varieties are also available. It has a round, bushy shape, and is generally grown as an ornamental plant in borders and rockeries. C. ternata is evergreen in most climates, with glossy, dark green divided leaves, which grow in 3 leaflets. The ‘Sundance’ variety has attractive lime green to yellow foliage, which looks its best from March to November. The shrub also produces small, star-shaped white flowers, which appear in spring, usually around April and May, and sometimes again in early autumn. The flowers have a subtle pink tinge and a sweet fragrance that’s attractive to pollinators, including birds and bees. Mexican orange blossom produces small, star-shaped white flowers Despite its name, the flowers do not smell strongly of oranges, but rather have a subtle citrus scent. The blossoms do, however, look similar to those on the orange plant. As well as Mexican orange blossom, C. ternata is also known as Mexican orange flower, mock orange, and sometimes by its synonym, C. grandiflora. The choisya part of the name comes from the Swiss botanist Jacques Denys Choisy.3 Plant Care Being from Mexico, C. ternata is used to growing in full sunlight, so try to find it a sunny spot in your garden. Aspect & Exposure If necessary, it can tolerate partial shade, although this may limit flowering. It doesn’t like to be exposed, so look for an area that’s sheltered from the wind by trees or a fence. The plant can tolerate temperatures down to -10°C but will need to be protected if temperatures drop to -15°C or lower, as this can cause the plant serious frost damage. For this reason, it is best suited to growth in parts of the UK with a milder climate. It will grow in most soil types and pHs, but prefers the soil to be fertile, and it must be well-drained, to prevent root rot. Watering & Fertilising During the first year, you should water the soil regularly, to prevent it from drying out. Once established, its warm and dry natural habitat means the plant is tolerant to drought, and should require very little watering, except during extremely dry periods. Mexican orange blossom flowers in spring, and the white, star-shaped blooms will often appear again in autumn. When To Plant You can plant C. ternata at any time of year, except in winter, or when there is frost on the ground. The best time to plant is usually considered to be late spring or early autumn – allowing you to avoid frosts, but also the heat of summer. Plant C. ternata in spring or autumn, to avoid frosts When planting, you should try to choose a sunny location, that’s sheltered from winds. Allow plenty of space for the plant to spread out, bearing in mind that some varieties will grow to 2.5m high and wide. Upon planting, add a high phosphorous or blood, fish and bone fertiliser to the soil, to give your Mexican orange blossom the best possible start, and encourage root development. Water it well, and keep the soil moist during the first year, until the plant is established. If you’re planting out semi-hardwood cuttings, you should plant these as soon as you take them, in late summer or early autumn. Similarly, if you’re planting seeds, these should be planted in pots as soon as they are harvested, in late spring. Propagating Guidelines Taking semi-hardwood cuttings is considered to be the best and easiest way to propagate Mexican orange blossom. Cuttings can be taken in late-summer to mid-autumn, when there should be plenty of current-season shoots, with hard bases and soft tips. Use sharp secateurs to take the cuttings, and aim for lengths of 10–15cm. Take the cuttings in the morning, and make the cut below a leaf node. Plant them out straight away if possible, and certainly within 12 hours. To plant, dip the base in a rooting hormone to help stimulate growth, and place into a cuttings compost. Keep them warm, well-ventilated and moist (but well-drained), until the roots take hold, and make sure to remove any dead or diseased material regularly, to help prevent fungal moulds. If you prefer, it is also possible to propagate Mexican Orange Blossom from seed. To do this, harvest the seeds in spring, and plant them directly into a peat-based potting compost. This should be in a small container, with good drainage. Common Diseases & Problems There are not many diseases to be concerned about with C. ternata, but it is vulnerable to a few common pests, including glasshouse red spider mites, capsid bugs, slugs and snails. Snails will eat the foliage of plants, causing obvious holes and damage. They can be controlled by setting traps, or picking them off by hand, and then removing them from your garden. Signs of glasshouse red spider mite include a pale mottling on the leaves, and leaf dropping, usually from March to October. You may also see evidence of the mites themselves, including tiny yellowish bugs, white skins and eggshells. In extreme cases, an infestation might even cause the plant to die. Glasshouse red spider mite is caused by warm and dry conditions, such as those found in a greenhouse. Help to prevent it by giving your plants plenty of space to grow, so that air can circulate, and spraying the foliage with water. If your plant suffers an infestation, you can treat it with biological controls, by introducing a predatory mite or midge to the environment. Alternatively, you can use a specialised pesticide, providing that the plant is not in flower, so it will not affect pollinators. Why Is My Choisya ternata Turning Yellow? There are a few reasons why your plant may be turning yellow. It’s worth noting that the leaves of some varieties, such as ‘Sundance’ are yellow when new in spring, and turn yellow again in autumn. Outside of these times though, yellowing leaves could be a sign of undesirable growing conditions. To tackle yellow leaves, you can try feeding the plant with fertiliser or transplanting it to a sunnier location. Choisya ternata ‘Sundance’ One of the most common causes of yellow foliage is poor drainage, so make sure the soil is not waterlogged. References 1. Choisya ternata. (n.d.). Kew Royal Botanic Gardens. Retrieved March 14, 2023, from https://powo.science.kew.org/taxon/urn:lsid:ipni.org:names:771812-1 2. Choisya ternata | Mexican orange blossom. (n.d.). Royal Horticultural Society. Retrieved March 14, 2023, from https://www.rhs.org.uk/plants/3766/choisya-ternata-mexican-orange-blossom-mexican-orange/details 3. Choisy, Jacques Denys (Denis). (n.d.). JSTOR. Retrieved March 14, 2023, from https://plants.jstor.org/stable/10.5555/al.ap.person.k2463
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