Growing
Specialist Begonia Growers Share Their Favourite Tips From The Garden
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Habitat & Growing Conditions Begonia Care Temperature & Sunlight Soil Requirements Common Problems Begonia Origins References The ever-popular Begonia is not a single type of plant or flower – it is a genus comprising over 1,900 species and over 10,000 cultivars.1 Some gardeners may know Begonias as perennials; others as annuals. Flower lovers may go crazy about the vast variety of blossoms; foliage enthusiasts are equally fixated on fancy-leaf hybrids. In our Begonia guides we feature advice from Janeen Randle, President of the Melbourne Begonia Society. “My passion for growing begonias stems from the variety and colour in the flowers and the foliage,” says Janeen. “These plants produce long-lasting clusters of pendulous flowers with various leaf shapes that have interesting colouring, patterning and texture.” Overview Botanical Name Begonia Plant Type Annual / Perennial Flower Native Area South America, Central America, Central Africa and South Asia Hardiness Rating H1C-H3 (sometimes hardier) Foliage Varied genus Flowers Bright blooms in various colours When To Sow March, April, May, June Flowering Months June, July, August, September When To Prune June, July Begonias are herbaceous perennials in their native habitats in the tropical and sub-tropical regions of South America, Central America, Central Africa, and Southern Asia.2 Because they cannot survive a frost, most varieties are grown as annuals in the United Kingdom. However, some varieties can be grown indoors, besides in greenhouses, as perennials. For example, B. semperflorens or wax Begonias are effectively annuals in temperate regions but can live for several years in tropical climates or controlled environments. “If I was going to recommend a houseplant to a beginner, I’m drawn to the various different types of begonia,” shares Mr Plant Geek Michael Perry. B. masoniana AKA ‘Iron Cross’ “They can be a little fussy, as they don’t like to be over or underwatered, but they let you know in a simple way by just wilting a little. “You know then to just give them a little bit of water. You can’t get it wrong with them, they can be divas, but they are easily fixed. They also provide so much colour with their foliage.” Advances in Begonia horticulture occur at a dizzying pace. Wax and cane-like begonias would best be described as petite and cute varieties for beds and small pots, as these plants grow to about 15cm and no more than about 22cm at most. How things have changed! Newer cultivars are big, beautiful beasties; they average 40cm and the tallest reach a height of 85cm. What is more, they branch repeatedly so that besides being big, they are also broad and bushy. As for the blooms and the leaves, they are colourful, striking and vibrant. Habitat & Growing Conditions Begonia mazae f. nigricans For the most part, Begonias are understorey plants that grow in the cool and moist conditions of a rainforest canopy in their native habitats, for example, Cameroon and Malaysia. Some tuberous varieties thrive in dry and cool climes like those of the Peruvian Andes.3 Others grow in the wild on moist, shady slopes. Begonia habitats are the tropical and subtropical regions of South America, Central America, Central Africa, and Eastern Asia, with Southern China, Ecuador, and Cameroon being particular centres of diversity. B. maculata Other countries which boast their own brands of Begonias include Ecuador, Andean Peru, Brazil, Colombia, Venezuela, Mexico, Cameroon, Equatorial Guinea, India, Peninsular Malaysia, Borneo, Southern China, Vietnam, Philippines, and the Koreas. A few Begonias are native only to isolated areas in remote locations such as Sao Tome, the Bolivian Andes, and New Guinea; in contrast, Begonia cucullata grows freely across a huge swath of land in Argentina, Brazil, Paraguay, and Uruguay. The famed Begonia rex cultivars originate from the species which is native to North-East India and Myanmar.4 B. ‘Doublet White’ Regardless of the species or cultivar, the flowers of this genus are monoecious, that is, a given flower on a plant is either female or male. Most varieties are hardy to H1C-H3. Begonia grandis, also known as the Hardy Begonia, is a well-known exception that is winter hardy in temperate regions, being hardy to H5/H6. Begonia Care Caring for Begonia, as one of the most diverse genera, can scarcely be described in a one-size-fits-all section. That said, three essential guidelines hold good for virtually the entire genus. These are: Begonias do not like strong, direct sunlight and do best in indirect or filtered sunlight or bright shade. They are susceptible to frost and must be protected from it. They do best with moderate and regular watering but are averse to wet soil. “Although Begonias do not like wet soil, they also don’t like getting dry and can drop their flowers if they do,” advises Horticulturist Colin Skelly, whose experience includes time as a Skilled Horticulturist and Nursery Manager. Everything else is a variation on these guidelines, apart from specific requirements, such as minimum winter temperatures. Temperature & Sunlight As understorey plants, Begonias generally prefer indirect or filtered sunlight, but stronger sunlight is necessary for Rex Begonia and its cultivars, keeping in mind that the darker-coloured the leaf, the more it can withstand strong sunlight. Most Begonias do well in temperatures of 18-25°C but fare well in warmer temperatures provided they are kept under shade or a natural canopy. Soil Requirements The best soil has a moderate to slightly acidic pH of 5.6-6.5 which is of a loose, rich, loamy type. “The aim is for the horticultural sweet spot of free draining but moisture-retentive soil,” says Colin Skelly. “Add some horticultural grit to your compost to make sure that the compost drains freely and consider using pot feet to aid free drainage.” Begonia aconitifolia Compost may be mixed with the soil; it should preferably contain coir but be free of peat. Common Problems Begonias can become infested by mealybugs and aphids. You can treat either and both by using products like Safer’s soap according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Aphids are a particular menace because of their rapid breeding and harmfulness. Mealybugs on outdoor plants can be eliminated using nature to fight nature. Release ladybugs, lacewings, and mealybug destroyers on the affected plants. These are beneficial insects that prey upon mealybugs. Rex Begonias are particularly susceptible to nematodes. While many nematodes are beneficial and even kill harmful insects, some are parasites that dwell in soil and destroy plants. Garden centres usually stock some products for nematode infestation. A few natural methods exist to eliminate nematodes, such as raising the soil temperature by sealing it off, but these cannot be used on soil inhabited by plants. One semi-natural remedy that can be used to put down a nematode infestation is to put naptha mothballs on the soil, and water plants as usual. Begonias, especially saplings and young plants, are delicacies for snails and slugs so be on the lookout for them and remove or eliminate them promptly so that their numbers do not get out of hand. While waterlogged soil is harmful to almost all plants, even damp soil poses a threat to tuberous Begonia varieties as dampness can bring about rot. Ensure that the soil is drained well and put containers on tiles or wedges so they are off the ground. Although Begonias like some humidity, avoid misting them and do not expose them to overly humid environments to prevent mildew, as Jane Perrone, houseplant expert, explains: “Lots of begonias really like humidity which you can check with a humidity meter. They like a humidity of around 50%, so it is a good plant for a bathroom or something similar. “Begonias don’t like dry air, so don’t place them next to a radiator.” Begonia Origins Begonia brevirimosa The well-known name of one of the most popular plant families memorialises quite an unknown gentleman. Way back in the 1600s, a French ancien regime official by the name of Michel V Bégon served in various ‘intendant’ positions in France’s colonies in the Caribbean. This gentleman was passionate about plants and when he met with naturalist and botanist Charles Plumier, the latter was so impressed with the good intendant that he named a new genus after Monsieur Bégon.5 References 1. The BRAHMS Project, University of Oxford, Department of Plant Sciences. (n.d.-b). Begonia species. Oxford University Plants. Retrieved March 13, 2023, from https://herbaria.plants.ox.ac.uk/bol/plants400/Profiles/ab/Begonia 2. An Introduction to Begonia Species. (2021, December 20). The American Begonia Society. Retrieved March 13, 2023, from https://www.begonias.org/introduction-to-begonia-species/ 3. Moonlight, P. W., & Reynel, C. (2018). Two new species of Begonia from Andean Peru. Phytotaxa, 381(1). https://doi.org/10.11646/phytotaxa.381.1.15 4. Begonia rex Putz. (n.d.). Kew Royal Botanic Gardens. Retrieved March 28, 2023, from https://powo.science.kew.org/taxon/urn:lsid:ipni.org:names:105573-1 5. Schumaker, P. (2020, February 13). The plant named after Michel Begon. UF/IFAS Extension Charlotte County. Retrieved March 13, 2023, from https://blogs.ifas.ufl.edu/charlotteco/2020/02/17/the-plant-named-after-michel-begon/
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Horticulturists Love Using These 27 Plants In Hanging Baskets: Mix And Match Them
IN THIS GUIDE 1) Petunia 2) Begonia 3) Fuchsia 4) Sweet Pea 5) Million Bells 6) Geranium 7) Lantana 8) Black Eyed Susan 9) Lobelia 10) Nasturtium 11) Portulaca 12) Lotus Vine 13) Sweet Alyssum 14) Viola 15) Pansy 16) Primrose 17) Tomatoes 18) Tulips 19) Fairy Rose 20) Verbena 21) Lavender 22) Clematis 23) Spider Plant 24) Diascia 25) Impatiens 26) Million Hearts 27) Ivy References Whether they’re mounted on a fence, suspended from a trellis, or bordering your doorway, hanging baskets are one of the most stylish ways to display plants in your garden and provide interest at eye level. So what should you plant in them? There are hundreds of species that are suitable to be grown in hanging baskets, ranging from colourful flowers and bedding plants – to shrubs, evergreens and trailing climbers. You can stick to one genus of plants, or you can plant a mixture, to achieve a more varied and multi-coloured look. If you’re doing this, you should also take into account the different flowering periods and care requirements for each of your plants. According to a study by researchers at the University of Kentucky, the most commonly used plants for hanging baskets include Geraniums, Fuchsia, Begonia, Calibrachoa (Million Bells), Impatiens, Petunia and Verbena.1 We cover each of these below in more detail, as well as twenty other choices. 1) Petunia Petunias are one of the most popular flowers to plant in hanging baskets – and for good reason. These pretty flowers bloom well, and come in a wide range of colours, from pink and purple, to yellow and black. Cascading varieties such as Surfinia will fill and flow over the edge of baskets, creating a full look. Trailing petunias are easy to care for – just hang baskets in locations with full sunlight, water frequently, and make sure the basket has at least one hole for drainage. 2) Begonia If your hanging baskets are in a partially shaded location, begonias can make for an excellent choice. Begonia ‘Million Kisses’ series is a trailing variety, ideally suited to hanging basket growth. These autumnal-coloured flowers will bloom throughout summer and into autumn. Be careful not to overwater your begonias, as they are susceptible to root rot. 3) Fuchsia Bright pink and purple fuchsias are another popular choice. They flower continuously from mid-summer until the first frosts, and their pendant-shaped blooms will give your hanging baskets a tropical look. Choose a small, hardy variety, and plant in your basket in early summer. Keep them in a sunny or partially shaded location, and water the basket twice a week to keep it moist, but not waterlogged. 4) Sweet Pea Most sweet peas (Lathyrus odoratus) are annual climbing vines, with small, showy flowers that are known for their sweet scent. Dwarf climbing varieties are the best choice for hanging baskets – their trailing vines will cascade over the sides. The ‘Sweetie Mix’ have been bred to trail. Sweet peas prefer full sun or dappled shade. Make sure to deadhead them regularly throughout the growing season, to encourage new flowers. 5) Million Bells The ‘Million Bells’ series are trailing annuals from the Calibrachoa genus. Their small, petunia-like flowers range from pink to yellow to blue and grow densely and abundantly throughout summer and autumn. They can thrive in hanging baskets, as long as they have good drainage, and prefer a sunny, sheltered location. 6) Geranium Fill your hanging pots or baskets with bold geraniums (Pelargonium) to add a splash of bright colour to the exterior of your home. These evergreen perennials can have red, pink, purple, orange or white flowers. Geraniums love the warmth and will thrive best in a sunny spot. They do not fare well in frost, so you will either need to bring them inside over winter or replace them each year. 7) Lantana Lantana can be an evergreen or perennial shrub and is characterised by its wrinkly leaves and clusters of small flowers approximately 1cm wide. It grows well in hanging baskets and containers, providing they have good access to sunlight, and the soil is kept moist, but well-drained. Bring it inside or into a greenhouse during winter, to protect it from frost. 8) Black Eyed Susan Black Eyed Susan (Thunbergia alata) gets its name from the dark brown conical disk at the centre of its orange or yellow flowers. This climbing vine flowers in late summer and early autumn, so plant it alongside an earlier-flowering plant if you want your basket to bloom for a longer. It does get very large, so the alternative is to get it the freedom to fill out for a larger-than-life display. 9) Lobelia Lobelia is an annual flowering plant with neat, compact foliage, and flowers that are usually blue, purple or white. It grows best in hanging baskets that are in full sunlight and prefers moist but well-drained soil. Add a liquid fertiliser every 2 weeks during the flowering period to encourage growth. Cutting them back by around a half after their first flush of blooms can also keep them tidy and floriferous. 10) Nasturtium Nasturtium (Tropaeolum majus) is an annual climber with simple lobed leaves and funnel-shaped flowers of red, orange or yellow. It makes a great trailing plant in a hanging basket. Grow in full sunlight and poor soil for the best results, as too many nutrients will encourage the growth of foliage, instead of flowers. 11) Portulaca Portulaca is known for its needle-like foliage, as well as its colourful, cup-shaped flowers. Other names for it include rose moss and sun plant – it’s not surprising then that it prefers the sun. Place it in a south-facing location, and the tropical blooms in red, pink, purple and yellow will add a summery feel to your garden. 12) Lotus Vine Lotus vine is also called fire vine, or parrot’s beak, thanks to its unusually-shaped red and orange flowers. A member of the pea family Fabaceae, this trailing vine makes a great addition to a hanging basket, where it will cascade over the edge. The blooms are short-lived, but the fine, bluish-green foliage is attractive in itself. 13) Sweet Alyssum Another trailing plant that looks fabulous cascading from a hanging basket is sweet alyssum. Thread the shoots of this bushy plant carefully through the slits in your hanging basket to create a more full-bodied effect. The plant produces racemes of small and fragrant flowers, that will enrich your outside space. 14) Viola Viola can be annuals, biennials or perennials, and feature clumps of distinctive, 5-petalled flowers. Colours range from blue and purple, to yellow and pink, often with a contrasting eye. These are another sweet-smelling flower, so perfect for placing in hanging baskets at nose level. Grow in nutrient-rich, moist soil, with good drainage. They’re useful for autumn, winter and early spring displays. 15) Pansy Part of the viola genus, pansies are another highly popular choice for hanging baskets in the UK. These annual flowering plants flower profusely and produce blooms in a wide range of colours – deadhead regularly to prolong flowering. They’re also a good option for winter hanging baskets. 16) Primrose Primrose (Primula vulgaris) is a symbol of springtime and makes a bright and uplifting addition to your garden. The flowers are usually yellow and form in clusters on leaf rosettes. They are vulnerable to pests, including aphids, slugs and glasshouse red spider mite, so make sure to keep a close eye on them. Once it’s time to refresh your hanging basket for summer, transplant them into the ground for a display the following year. 17) Tomatoes Of course, it’s not only flowering plants that are suitable for hanging baskets – you can also grow herbs and edible plants, such as cherry tomatoes. Select a suitable variety, such as ‘Tumbling Tom Red.’ Place the tomato plant in the centre of the basket, and make sure to keep it well-watered. Hang it in a sunny location in your garden (wait until May or June to plant, to avoid the risk of frost). 18) Tulips If you want to grow a larger flower in your hanging baskets, tulips are a great option. These popular blooms produce vivid colours early in the year, so they’re suitable for winter hanging baskets – plant your bulbs in October or November, and your baskets will be filled with beautiful red, yellow and pink tulips come spring. Grow in fertile soil, in a sunny location. “I would select a miniature variety, with cup-shaped blooms, as the more open flowers will not be seen unless you can levitate above your basket!” says Master Horticulturist Peter Lickorish. “Tulipa linifolia ‘Bronze Charm’ works well, especially paired with blue violas.” 19) Fairy Rose This pretty, pale pink dwarf rose variety is perfect if you want to include roses in your hanging basket, as the flowers grow in small sprays, and don’t reach more than 2.5cm wide. For the best blooms, position your basket in full sun, plant in fertile soil, and apply liquid fertiliser in spring and summer. 20) Verbena Verbena can be annuals or perennials, and usually have small flowers with 5 petals, on toothed leaves. The flowers come in a wide range of colours, from cool blues and purples to hot pinks and reds, as shown here. They pair well with other plants in hanging baskets and will attract desirable pollinators, such as bees and butterflies, into your garden. 21) Lavender Upright lavender makes an excellent choice for the centre of a hanging basket. This perennial plant is characterised by its purple flowers and distinctive fragrance – you can expect blooms from late spring until mid-summer. Lavender is ideal for country cottages and modern gardens alike. I find French Lavender is easier to keep compact, and therefore fits well in hanging baskets. 22) Clematis Clematis is a hugely popular plant for UK gardens and is suitable for hanging baskets. There are many different varieties, each with different sizes, flower colours and flowering periods – it’s best to choose a small, compact variety for container growth. “The compact Clematis ‘Bijou’ would be my pick,” adds Peter. 23) Spider Plant Spider plants make for another popular and attractive hanging basket plant. They are tender plants and are therefore usually grown inside as house plants, but they can be placed outside if the conditions are right. Move your spider plant outside during periods of warm, dry weather, and then bring it inside when it gets cold. 24) Diascia Diascia’s cup-shaped flowers are usually various shades of pink, and make an excellent way to add colour to your garden during summer. They prefer full sun, so try to find them a south-facing spot, and keep soil moist, but well-drained. 25) Impatiens Impatiens produce sprays of spurred flowers in all colours. They are easy to grow and can flourish in partially shaded locations, as long as they are sheltered from the wind. Some protection from the rain is also appreciated, as the flowers are susceptible to grey mould in damp growing conditions. 26) Million Hearts With its cascading foliage, Million Hearts (Dischidia ruscifolia) will add lush greenery to your hanging basket display. This is another one that fairs well in partial shade, and it’s also tolerant to drought, so you don’t need to panic if you forget to water it. It’s tender, but could be added to a summer display. 27) Ivy Last but not least, ivy makes a good-looking and easy addition to a hanging basket. This climber grows well in a variety of conditions, including full sun and shade, and can tolerate most soil types. The ‘Pittsburgh’ cultivar is compact and particularly suited to container growth. References 1. Kaiser, C., & Ernst, M. (2020, July). Hanging Baskets. University of Kentucky: College of Agriculture, Food and Environment. Retrieved March 22, 2023, from https://www.uky.edu/ccd/sites/www.uky.edu.ccd/files/hangingbaskets.pdf
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Money Plant Growing Tips Featuring Experienced Grower Ralph Behrmann
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Habitat & Growing Conditions Planting Plant Care Cleaning Money Plant Leaves Pruning Propagation Common Problems References Crassula ovata (AKA ‘Money Plant’) is a succulent evergreen originating from Eastern South Africa.1 It grows in a wide latitude of conditions, is easy to care for, and is long-lived. Bearing shiny, chunky leaves and inflorescences of pretty white or pinkish flowers, this attractive ornamental is low-maintenance and high-decor – no wonder it is such a popular houseplant the world over. In this guide we interview and feature Ralph Behrmann, an experienced grower and supplier at Clouds Hill Succulents. Overview Botanical Name Crassula ovata Common Name(s) Jade Plant, Money Plant, Friendship Tree Plant Type Succulent Native Area Eastern South Africa Hardiness Rating H2 Foliage Evergreen succulent leaves Flowers Small, white When To Plant / Repot Spring – Autumn Money Plant, Jade Plant, Penny Plant, Lucky Plant, Friendship Tree, Dollar Plant, Silver Dollar Plant, Kerky Bush – all these names, most of them suggesting prosperity and fortune, identify one and the same plant, Crassula ovata. An evergreen shrub that is as sturdy in constitution as it is in appearance, this plant can tolerate varying sun-shade balance, dry weather, and even drought conditions, and is super-easy to propagate. It is equally easy to grow and care for both outdoors and indoors, and its versatility extends even to being the plant of choice for learning bonsai: its toughness allows it to withstand rough pruning and its natural attributes make for a lovely miniaturised tree. However, the majority of Jade Plants grown by gardeners are neither outdoor plants nor bonsai but are potted houseplants. Potted specimens typically attain heights of between 45-75cm but in their native habitat, C. ovata can grow as tall as 2m. When plants get a lot of sunlight the leaves develop an eye-catching red edging, specifically a deep ruby-red shade. Conversely, if nights are long and the overall temperature is on the cool side but the plant gets sufficient sunlight, older specimens will bloom in winter – though this is unusual in indoor potted plants. When it does, the inflorescences are lush – each one is about 5cm both in length and diameter and bears a profusion of short-lived but charming flowers. These are star-shaped with lanceolate petals and are white, pink, white with pink tinges, or cream. Habitat & Growing Conditions C. ovata itself is hardy to RHS H1C (USDA Zone 11) but some cultivars are hardy to lower zones; for example, Gollum and E.T.’s Fingers are hardy to RHS Zone H3 (USDA Zone 9). They do best in warm and dry climates – think Arizona – and in their native South Africa they are often found growing among dense vegetation, primarily succulents, in valleys and in lonely clusters on stony hillsides.2 In damp soil or humid climes they are susceptible to stem rot and fungal diseases, as Ralph explains: “From the feedback I get from my customers, poor water management is a huge problem. Many people want to give water to a plant every day, whereas this shouldn’t happen.” “More humid environment such as bathrooms works well only for epiphytic succulents, such as rhipsalis or peperomias. “Crassulas need a place in the house where the air humidity is not too high and definitely do not require misting” – helping to expel a common myth of crassula plant care. In areas such as the UK which are typically below their designated hardiness zone, Money Plant and its cultivars cannot survive cold weather outdoors and effectively become annuals. However, plants will survive the winter if they are brought indoors and the temperature drops no lower than 10°C. Planting Chinese Money Plant can be planted around the year but it is not advisable to do so in the winter because this is the plant’s dormant season. Growing the plant in winter, especially in unfavourable zones or climates like the UK, may prove troublesome. It is smart to plant it between mid-spring and mid-summer, which is plumb in the middle of this succulent’s active growing season, to facilitate strong rooting and fast growth. Plant Care Temperature & Sunlight “Most succulents are not only adapted to sunlight, they also need a sufficient amount of it in order to thrive”, says Ralph, when discussing the importance of light and succulents. This sporting plant will make do with virtually any mix of sun and shade provided that the afternoon sun is not too hot or direct. The ideal sun-shade mix is about four hours of morning sun and the rest in shade. The ideal temperature ranges for C. ovata are 20-25°C during the day and 12-15°C during the night. “In the summer months, placing your Crassula ovata outside will expose it to higher light levels, which will cause the plant’s leaves to take on vibrant red colouration,” advises Expert Horticulturist Colin Skelly. “Just be careful to make sure the plant does not get too ‘baked’ or, almost as likely, too wet in an English summer! “Make sure to bring it back inside before temperatures fall in autumn.” Soil Requirements This plant requires a rich soil mix that drains well – make that very well. A sandy loam with compost, and including gravel and perlite in the topsoil, is ‘right on the money’. The pH may fall anywhere from moderately acidic to slightly alkaline, with 6.0 being perfect. Because of the way Money Plants grow and use nutrients in the soil it is almost a necessity to repot containerised plants in fresh soil about every three years. Watering In the spring and summer growing season they should be watered freely but let the soil dry out completely before watering again – even consistently moist soil is a no-no. Winter is Jade Plants’ dormant season and during these three or four months, the plant should be watered infrequently and with little water so that its soil remains drier for longer spells than in summer. Bottom watering your plants during this period can help – so that soil is not left wet and waterlogged – but your plant is able to suck up water when needed through its roots. These lengthier dry periods in the winter combined with some bright sun and mostly deep shade in the day and cool nights are the triggers that bring mature plants, especially outdoor ones, to flower. Even mature plants do not flower annually but about once every three years. Feeding Though fertilising is not necessary, to feed plants organically compost can be mixed into the soil, and in spring and summer they can be fed with a diluted 10-10-10 liquid fertiliser every two months; alternatively, in early-spring add the appropriate amount of a balanced controlled-release fertiliser to the soil. Tricolour cultivar Cleaning Money Plant Leaves You can clean Money Plant leaves with water using two methods but in either case, do make sure that the water is at room temperature; it should not be either hot or cold. The less time-consuming method is to use a spray bottle or a pinched hose to emit a gentle jet or spray of water on the money plant’s leaves, taking care to wash the undersides of the leaves as well. Another method is to hand clean the plant: Put a small amount of mild, organic liquid soap in a basin of water, and with a soft cotton cloth, gently rub the soapy water on the leaves, including their undersides. Then use plain water and a different cloth for a wipe-off to get rid of the soapy residue. Cleaning leaves not only keeps the plant looking fresh and pretty, it also prevents infestation and disease. Pruning Pruning C. ovata is not necessary; do so if you have a specific reason. You can prune faded, dried-out flowers and browned or dead branches and leaves for aesthetic reasons. If your Jade Plant is in a small pot and you wish to limit its size or if you wish to sculpt an outdoor or indoor specimen, you can prune it. Annually pruning branches, especially emerging ones, will result in the plant becoming less bushy and developing a stout main stem or ‘trunk’. To prune, use a sharp pair of secateurs that have been disinfected. Prune a branch either by cutting it at a node or flush along its parent branch. Be mindful that when a branch is pruned at a node, more often than not two new branches will sprout from the node immediately underneath. At most, prune 20% of the plant’s branches and no more. It is advisable to prune in spring or summer to promote quick recovery. Propagation “Propagating succulents from cuttings is a secure form to replicate an existing plant” explains Ralph from Clouds Hill Succulents. “The plant you grow from a cutting will always look like the mother plant, whilst growing plants from seeds can be a bit of a shot in the dark”. However, C. ovata roots so strongly that when leaves or stems of outdoor specimens in favourable climates break and fall on the ground, they often root and become new plants in two to three weeks. As such, one can conclude that it is very easy to propagate this plant: Simply twist and pull a leaf so that it, along with its stalk, detaches cleanly from the stem. Let it sit in a dry and warm room for two or three days. Then place the leaf in loose favourable soil, gently pressing the stalk but a few millimetres under the surface. After a day put only some drops of water. Leaves should root in about four weeks. You can also cut off a small length of the stem using sharp and disinfected secateurs. Allow it a period of two to three days in a dry and warm room so that the plant can heal and to reduce the chances of rot. Then gently insert the cut end of the cutting into a favourable soil mix – stem cuttings should root in about three weeks. Though cuttings can be taken and rooted year-round, it is best and easiest to do so in the summer. Common Problems Though C. ovata in the main are free of diseases and infestations, the one pest that poses a threat is the mealybug. Compounding the problem, should such an infestation occur it cannot be treated with any of the usual insecticidal soaps or oils, even organic ones. The reason is that Jade Plants (like almost all other succulents) are hypersensitive to (organic or other) insecticides and their foliage can suffer serious adverse effects. One way to eliminate mealybugs is by pruning. If you spot an infestation that is localised in a small portion of the plant, you can prune that part using the technique described above. Alternatively, clean off the infestation. Soak cotton buds or a small cloth in rubbing alcohol and gently rub the infested surfaces so as to kill and wipe off the mealybugs. You will need to repeat this cleaning and disinfestation every day for several days, even up to two weeks, until all the mealybugs are gone. Continue for a few days even after no mealybugs are visible so as to do away with any larvae and newly-hatched insects. If your plant is outdoors you could fight fire with fire by simply letting loose beneficial insects that prey upon mealybugs. Release ladybugs, lacewings, and mealybug destroyers. Yellowing Leaves The most common cause of yellowed leaves is overwatering, which can lead to more serious problems including death. Immediately and significantly reduce watering, both in amount and frequency, and allow the soil to dry out before re-commencing watering. If you have not been overwatering then that would indicate that the soil is not draining well. In this case, you would need to transplant the Money Plant into a favourable soil mix that is well-drained. Overexposure to harsh direct sun can also turn a Money Plant’s leaves yellow because such exposure causes the plant to produce different pigments for protection from sunlight and UV rays. In such cases put up a barrier to shield it from the sun except for two hours in the morning until it recovers, or, if the plant is containerised, simply move it to a location where it gets no more than two hours of morning sun. If yellowed leaves are limp, soft, soggy, or falling off, then the cause is overwatering. If yellowed leaves exhibit no other symptoms or ill-effects, then the cause is too much sun. References 1. Crassula ovata (Mill.) Druce. (n.d.). Kew Royal Botanic Gardens. Retrieved March 28, 2023, from https://powo.science.kew.org/taxon/urn:lsid:ipni.org:names:273350-1 2. Crassula ovata (jade plant). (2022, January 7). CABI Compendium. https://doi.org/10.1079/cabicompendium.113574
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Three Recognised Orchid Growers And Sellers Share Dendrobium Nurturing Secrets
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Habitat & Growing Conditions How To Grow Dendrobium Dendrobium Care Getting A Dendrobium Orchid To Bloom Propagation Common Problems References With their dark green foliage and distinctive, tropical flowers, it’s not hard to see why orchids are one of the most popular container plants in the UK. Dendrobium orchids are a genus of epiphytic orchids, known for their linear leaves and attractive sprays of showy flowers. In this guide, we collaborate and share advice from three recognised orchid growers and sellers: Sara Rittershausen – Owner of Burnham Nurseries Ltd. Paul Upward – Chairman and Programme Secretary of the Thames Valley Orchid Society. Daniel Toor – Owner of The Dark Orchid. “Beyond their beauty, it’s the delicate care and attention required to cultivate these magnificent plants that makes growing them so rewarding, with blooms as a final prize,” says Daniel. “In many ways, orchids are like beloved pets that require constant nurturing and attention, rather than mere houseplants. “Their unique needs and characteristics make them fascinating subjects for both novice and seasoned gardeners alike.” There are over 1,000 species of Dendrobium orchids, and they all have slightly different appearances and care requirements – although they can be roughly grouped into the cooler-growing varieties, and the warmer-growing varieties, that need heat to thrive.1 Dendrobium orchids are not difficult to grow, but they do require ongoing maintenance to flower and look their best. This includes regular watering, feeding with a specialised orchid food, and misting, to recreate their natural humid habitat. If you’ve recently acquired, or are thinking about acquiring, a Dendrobium orchid, read on for our full care and growing guide, to find out exactly how to look after your pretty new flower plant. Overview Botanical Name Dendrobium Plant Type Houseplant Native Area South-East Asia Hardiness Rating H1A – H1C Foliage Epiphytic in nature Flowers Various orchid blooms When To Sow March, April, May Flowering Months April, May, June Dendrobium is part of the Orchidaceae family.2 They are terrestrial and epiphytic, meaning that they grow on other plants and rocks, rather than in soil. Some Dendrobium orchids are deciduous, and some remain green year-round. The name ‘Dendrobium’ is derived from the Ancient Greek words for tree, ‘Dendron’, and life, ‘Bios’, and refers to the fact that these orchids are often found growing on tree branches in their natural habitat.3 “The orchid family is huge and there really is something for everyone, as there is always something different in each flower to enjoy and new ones to learn about,” shares Sara. “The variety and diversity of the orchid make it the most fascinating plant family.” Some grow well in cooler conditions, such as D. nobile, and others prefer hot temperatures, such as D. bigibbum. Dendrobium orchids flower in spikes, from the old pseudobulbs (canes), and either alone or in racemes. Most varieties produce flowering spikes of around 30-50cm, but some larger varieties can grow up to 120cm tall. This D. nobile has a distinctive, contrasting maroon lip Plants generally bloom for 6–8 weeks. The colour of the blooms ranges greatly depending on the variety – and includes red, purple, pink, yellow and white. They can also be a mix of two or more colours – D. nobile has white, rose pink or purple flowers with a contrasting lip, and can produce up to 50 blooms per stem. Habitat & Growing Conditions Orchids are found all over the world, with different species originating from different locales and climates. Most Dendrobiums, including D. nobile, originate from South and South East Asia. Dendrobium orchids grow in everything from warm, humid forests, river valleys, dry deserts, and cool, high-altitude mountainsides, such as in the Himalayas. As they are epiphytic, they are usually found growing on other plants, such as trees, or on rocks. “Grow other houseplants with them as they will enjoy the environment this creates,” suggests Sara. They generally need a lot of moisture in the air, but not at their roots, as they do not like to be waterlogged and are prone to root rot. You can replicate these conditions at home by misting your orchid’s leaves with water, using a spray bottle. Mist your Dendrobium’s leaves to replicate its natural humid growing conditions “Your orchid will also need bright, indirect light to thrive, so place it near a window or provide additional artificial light,” Daniel says. How To Grow Dendrobium You can buy Dendrobium orchids from garden centres, nurseries, or online suppliers. Two of the most commonly available types of Dendrobium orchid in the UK are D. nobile and D. bigibbum. As there are at least 1,000 different varieties, and many more hybrids of Dendrobium orchid, if there is a particular colour or variety you want, you may need to seek out a specialist grower. “When it comes to growing orchids, there’s no one-size-fits-all answer,” says Daniel. “With so many different species, each with its own specific requirements, the key to success lies in understanding the unique needs of your plants.” Another way to acquire an orchid, other than buying it, is to propagate an existing plant. This could be a good option if you have a friend or family member who already owns a Dendrobium orchid. Container & Potting Medium Dendrobium orchids grow best in small pots, and therefore work well as patio, greenhouse or indoor plants. They like their roots to be crowded, so you should select a pot that is no more than 3cm bigger than the plant’s root ball. Do not plant it directly in the ground, and do not use a generic potting compost. As Dendrobium orchids are epiphytic, you will need to source a special epiphytic orchid compost to plant them in. “To help prevent overwatering, make sure your orchid’s potting mix has proper drainage and only water the plant when the mix is dry to the touch,” says Daniel. Alternatively, you can also pot in a different material, such as moss, tree bark or coconut husks. These orchids must have good drainage – it can be helpful to plant them in hanging baskets to ensure this. Planting The best time to plant a Dendrobium orchid will depend on the variety you’re growing. As a general rule, it is best to plant at the beginning of the growing season, which is often in spring. This is also true if you are re-potting the plant, or propagating it through division. You should plant your Dendrobium orchid in a special epiphytic orchid compost, or a soil alternative such as moss, coconut husks or tree bark, to replicate their natural epiphytic growing conditions. Always plant in a small pot, as Dendrobium likes its roots to be constricted, and this will also help to prevent the plant from becoming waterlogged. You can always place the small pot inside a larger container if you prefer this look. “Many a Dendrobium have met their end by planting them in heavy orchid composts and allowing them to sit in water,” says Horticultural Consultant Dan Ori. “Although they can tolerate growing in an orchid compost with some soil or broken-down bark if you are light on watering, I find it best to have them in a low-absorbent material like bark chip.” Dendrobium Care “The challenge of getting these magical, mysterious and temperamental plants to grow well and flower is what makes them so rewarding,” shares Paul. “Orchids can be tricky to grow and when I get it right, I feel a great sense of achievement. Every orchid enthusiast has at some point killed plants because the conditions they gave them weren’t to the plant’s liking. “They could be kept at the wrong temperature, received too much or too little light, or received too much fertiliser. “However, over time I learnt from other growers, I joined orchid societies, read books and searched websites. “Making one small change at a time to my growing conditions, the plants grew more vigorously, flowered more regularly, and I began to win more awards at shows.” Temperature & Sunlight The best temperature to keep your Dendrobium orchid depends on whether it’s a cool or warm-growing variety. Generally speaking, cool-growing varieties need to be kept above a minimum night temperature of 10°C, whilst warm-growing varieties should be above 21°C. “Orchids tend to bloom when conditions change,” says Paul. “Often, it’s as a result of temperature change. When winter arrives, many orchids start to flower, or it can be as simple as a change in temperature between night and day.” You will find it easier to control the temperature if you keep the plant indoors. Light is very important for Dendrobium orchids. Your plant will need access to full light between autumn and spring, in order for its canes to ripen. This light can come from natural sunlight through a south-facing window, or specially set up grow lamps. In summer, it’s best to keep the plant in partial shade to avoid it getting too warm. Watering & Feeding “Watering is a delicate balance and is essential to the health and growth of your orchids,” says Daniel. “Finding the right balance can be challenging, but it’s crucial for keeping your orchids thriving. “To get it right, it’s important to consider factors such as the type of orchid you have, the size of the pot and the environment it’s growing in. “With proper care and attention, you can keep your orchids healthy and gorgeous for years to come.” During the summer growing period, you will need to water your orchid weekly, or whenever the soil starts getting dry. You should also aim to mist it once or twice a day, to replicate the humidity of its natural habitat. Every second watering, add a specialised orchid fertiliser to the water, to give it a boost of the nutrients essential for flowering. Warm-growing species will need to be watered throughout the winter too, but cool-growing species can be kept drier, as they enter their winter dormancy period – it is essential to research the requirements of your particular variety. Make sure never to allow your orchid to become waterlogged, or to sit in water, as the roots are prone to rotting. “Try giving a high-potash orchid bloom feed to encourage ones that have not flowered for a while,” says Sara. Dendrobium should be disturbed as little as possible, especially once their flowering spike has appeared. If they outgrow their container and need to be re-potted, the best time to do this is in spring, or at the beginning of the plant’s growing season. Pruning Dendrobium Dendrobium orchids do not need to be pruned, and older canes often store water and nutrients essential for plant health. The plant can also flower on old canes. However, you can manage their size and keep them looking their best by trimming the old flowering stems if necessary, using sharp scissors. Getting A Dendrobium Orchid To Bloom To encourage your Dendrobium orchids to bloom, you should feed them a specialised orchid fertiliser with every second watering. Dilute this according to the plant food manufacturer’s instructions, to avoid burning your orchid’s roots. Your orchid’s fertiliser should container a good balance of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium, all essential nutrients for growth, as well as other important minerals, such as calcium and magnesium, and trace elements such as iron and zinc. In addition to feeding your orchid, make sure the rest of its growing conditions are being met. Water weekly (but avoid letting the soil become waterlogged), mist daily, and ensure you are meeting its temperature requirements. Sometimes, a slight drop in nighttime temperature can trigger your orchid to bloom. Light is also particularly important for flowering – your orchid is unlikely to bloom well unless it is getting enough light to allow its canes to ripen. Move your orchid to an area with good natural light, or if this is not possible, use grow lights to give your orchid 15 hours of light a day. “Don’t be afraid to move them around if they haven’t flowered for over a year as a change will often kickstart the blooms again,” Sara explains. Propagation The best way to propagate Dendrobium orchids is by division, in spring. Ideally, this should only be done once the orchid has outgrown its current pot, and re-potting is absolutely necessary, as orchids do not respond well to being disturbed. You should also make sure your orchid has enough canes to make division viable. To propagate a Dendrobium, you should first carefully remove it from the soil, then gently pull the root ball apart, to create two plants. Re-plant immediately after division, either into the same soil, or new epiphytic orchid compost. Water the propagated plants well, but ensure the soil can drain, so it does not become waterlogged. Common Problems There are several pests you should watch out for on your Dendrobium orchid, including aphids and glasshouse red spider mites, which is encouraged by Dendrobium’s warm and humid growing conditions. “Some common problems that orchid enthusiasts face include overwatering, poor lighting, pests, and nutrient deficiencies,” explains Daniel. “However, these challenges can be easily overcome with a little bit of care and attention.” Dendrobium is also prone to mealybugs. If your plant has an infestation, you might notice the tiny 0.5mm bugs, or miniscule yellow spots on the leaves. To combat an infestation, clean the plant carefully with cotton wool dipped in rubbing alcohol, and repeat after 2 days. “Pests like spider mites and scale insects can be a problem for orchids, but regular inspections and prompt treatment can help keep them at bay,” shares Daniel. “And, to make sure your orchid receives the nutrients it needs to grow and bloom, be sure to fertilise it regularly with a balanced fertiliser.” One other way to help prevent pests with your orchid is to ensure it has plenty of space for air to circulate around it – you could even use a fan if necessary, to promote this. Other than pests, there are not many common diseases you need to worry about with your Dendrobium. Probably the most common problem growers encounter with Dendrobium orchids is dry leaves. “Orchids sulk when they’re not happy with the conditions you offer them,” explains Paul. “When they’re not happy, they soon let you know. The plant becomes weak, leaves can turn yellow, leaf tips can go brown and soon the plant becomes susceptible to pests such as mealy bugs. “When orchids start to show signs of being stressed, it can be tricky and time-consuming to return them to good health. “It’s therefore important that you check your plants regularly to catch any issues before they take hold.” If your orchid’s leaves look dry or have brown tips, it is most likely due to low humidity. You can increase the humidity around your plant by using a humidifier – its ideal humidity level is 50–70%. If your plant’s leaves are yellow, it may also be too warm, so move it to a cooler location, out of direct sunlight. References 1. Dendrobium. (n.d.). American Orchid Society. Retrieved March 14, 2023, from https://www.aos.org/orchids/orchids-a-to-z/letter-d/dendrobium.aspx 2. Dendrobium (group). (n.d.). Missouri Botanical Garden. Retrieved March 14, 2023, from https://www.missouribotanicalgarden.org/PlantFinder/PlantFinderDetails.aspx?kempercode=b625 3. Dendrobium spectabile. (2020, May 22). Hawaii Tropical Bioreserve & Garden. Retrieved March 14, 2023, from https://htbg.com/dendrobium-spectabile/
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Growing Weigela: Their Spreading Habit Makes Them A Valuable Screening Shrub
IN THIS GUIDE Overview How To Grow Weigela Planting Weigela Care Propagation Common Problems References Weigela is a range of deciduous plants (typically grown as shrubs) that come in a variety of different colours. With their multi-coloured leaves and distinctive flowers, they are a great choice to add interest to your garden. “As well as different colours, Weigelas come in different sizes too, with dwarfing cultivars as well as larger shrubs,” shares Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly. “Their spreading habit makes them a good screening shrub but they also make attractive specimen shrubs with their beautiful trumpet-like spring flowers.” Growing weigela in your garden isn’t too difficult – their water requirements are usually met by rainfall and providing you pick a good spot with plenty of sunlight, they should thrive for many years. Overview Botanical Name Weigela Plant Type Shrub Native Area Japan, China, Korea Hardiness Rating H6 Foliage Deciduous, simple ovate leaves Flowers Funnel-shaped red, pink, yellow or white flowers When To Sow February, March, October, November Flowering Months May, June, July When To Prune July Weigela originated in Japan, China and Korea but today they’re grown in many different climates around the world.1 How To Grow Weigela Before planting, you should ensure that the soil is in decent condition. Soil that’s too hard, frozen or waterlogged would not be suitable. Planting The roots of weigela that have already been established tend to be quite substantial, so be sure to make a hole in the soil that can accommodate it properly. You should make the hole at least as deep as the roots and roughly twice as wide. Make sure to cover it properly and using a layer of mulch would not be a bad idea, particularly if you’re planting in autumn. The best time to plant weigela would be either in the spring or autumn. This is because it prevents the plants from being immediately exposed to strong sunlight, which can be an issue when you’re transplanting already established bushes. The best spot for weigela would be in either full or partial sunlight. Although weigela can cope in shaded spots, they won’t flourish in the same way as they would with a good amount of sunlight. Weigela Care Growing weigela in your garden isn’t too difficult, but it is important to know the best way to go about it if you want your plants to thrive. Below is a full guide to growing weigela in your garden, including the initial planting, watering, picking the right spot and using fertiliser. Watering Weigela plants have average watering needs. This means if there’s a decent downpour during the week, then you usually don’t need to worry about watering them. You should certainly water them during dry spells, however – make sure to soak the roots well when watering. Fertilising Using a good fertiliser that’s suitable for shrubs is certainly a good idea when you first plant your weigela. Propagation There are a couple of reliable ways to go about propagating weigela, both using cuttings. It is possible to propagate using seed but here we’ll focus on using cuttings. Early (Softwood) Cuttings Using cuttings that you take in late summer/early autumn is the first method you can use to propagate weigela. Before taking any cuttings, it’s a good idea to take any steps you can prior to ensure the plant is in optimal condition. A very good way to do this is by watering the plant you’ll be taking the cuttings from a day before you do. You’ll only need to do this if the soil is dry. Make sure that any cuttings you take have a decent amount of foliage with healthy-looking stems. Cut just below the leaf bud and make sure to remove some of the leaves that are close to the base in order to reduce the water requirements. Once you’ve taken the cuttings, it’s a good idea to use a rooting hormone powder on the base of the cutting to encourage healthy growth and reduce the risk of rotting. You should place your cuttings in a 9cm or 1-litre pot and use good quality propagating compost. It’s important to ensure the cuttings get a decent amount of sunlight but aren’t overexposed. A greenhouse under a bench or under shade netting would be an ideal location but failing that you can place them in a semi-shaded spot in the house. You should check on your cuttings at least once a week, being sure to remove any unhealthy-looking foliage as well as watering as needed. Hardwood Cuttings The second method for propagating weigela is using hardwood cuttings. This is where you take fully mature cuttings from the current year’s growth. You should follow the same steps as mentioned above when making the cuttings. The advantage to using hardwood cuttings as opposed to early cuttings – is that you’re able to grow them outdoors as well as indoors. If you choose to plant them outdoors, then you will need to take a bit of care to encourage the best growth. You should use a good quality compost and plant the stems so there’s roughly a third of them protruding from the soil. Growing them in containers, either indoors or in a greenhouse is another option. This does give you some advantages – namely being able to protect the cuttings from the harsh winter weather. If you do plant the cuttings in containers, then be sure to also use good quality compost and water them whenever they become dry. Providing you check on them regularly and provide proper care, they should be ready to plant outdoors by the next autumn. Common Problems Below are some of the most common diseases and problems that weigela can suffer from: Powdery Mildew Powdery mildew is a very common type of fungal disease that affects a wide variety of plants. It’s so-called because the leaves of infected plants will have a coat of mildew on them that resembles white powder. To avoid powdery mildew, you should ensure that your plants have plenty of space between them for good circulation. You should also take care when watering to avoid any water getting on the leaves. If you have any plants that are affected by powdery mildew, then you should remove infected leaves, or in more severe cases – dig up and destroy infected plants. Black Spot Black spot is another type of fungal disease that can affect weigela. It will cause infected plants to develop black spots on their leaves and will often result in the leaves falling off the plant. To avoid black spot, you should take care not to get the leaves wet when watering, since this is often how it spreads. It’s also a good idea to use mulch, which helps to prevent water from splashing up. Rust Rust is a fungal disease that will cause orange-coloured spots to appear on the leaves of infected plants. If you notice any plants that are affected by rust, then you should either remove them or use a good fungicide. Spider Mites Spider mites may be small, but they can cause a lot of damage to plants. As well as injecting toxins into plants, they also leave visible webbing and quickly multiply. Thankfully, it’s quite easy to get rid of them – a simple spray of fungicidal soap or water is usually enough to remove them from plants. Mealybugs Mealybugs are another pest that can affect weigela. They are troublesome for a few reasons – firstly, they will drink from the leaves, which can easily result in poor growth. The honeydew they excrete also attracts ants as well as causing further issues with the honeydew itself growing mould. Aphids Aphids feed on the underside of leaves and the residue they leave behind can attract ants. If aphids become a problem, then you can wash them off with water or a fungicide. Another effective way to deal with them is by growing plants that attract predators, such as wasps and ladybirds. References 1. Weigela. (n.d.). Kew Royal Botanic Gardens. Retrieved March 27, 2023, from https://powo.science.kew.org/taxon/urn:lsid:ipni.org:names:6141-1
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Growing Fatsia Japonica, The Plant Loved By Gardening Celebs Including Alan Titchmarsh
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Common Varieties Habitat & Growing Conditions How To Grow Japanese Aralia Ongoing Plant Care Common Problems References Also referred to as Japanese Aralia or the ‘Fig Leaf Plant’, Fatsia japonica – as its name suggests – is native to Japan, Korea and Taiwan.1 And, although it wasn’t introduced to Britain until the 19th century, gardeners here have made up for it since.2 Much beloved by such TV gardening celebs as Alan Titchmarsh, the plant is very popular in the UK and highly praised for both its exotic looks and its toughness. “Fatsia japonica looks fantastic in an exotic garden with its large, glossy foliage, but it can also make a useful large screening shrub or provide a sense of green calm around more finely textured or vibrantly coloured planting,” says Horticultural Consultant Colin Skelly. This hardy garden favourite can even handle a heavy flurry of snow – making it ideal as a low-maintenance evergreen that will provide year-round interest. Overview Botanical Name Fatsia japonica Common Name(s) Japanese Aralia, Fig Leaf Plant Plant Type Shrub Native Area Japan Hardiness Rating H5 Foliage Evergreen, palmately lobed leaves Flowers Small white flowers When To Plant April, May, June, September, October Flowering Months September When To Prune June F. japonica has large green, shiny, leather-like leaves. When it’s flowering, the plant produces clusters of ball-like, white blooms at the tips of the stems. It can actually grow to as high as 3m tall, but the usual bush height is approximately 1.8m high. Common Varieties F. japonica has a number of varieties – many of which have interesting colours or shaped leaves. Here’s a quick run-down of some of the more popular: F. japonica ‘Variegata’ ‘Variegata’ is a pretty plant which includes small blackberries as well as blooms. It will grow up to 2.4m tall and produce large green leaves with cream edges. It’s mostly used indoors these days. F. japonica ‘Spiders Web’ This variety has green leaves variegated with white at the margins, making it appear as if spiders have been weaving their webs on the leaves. It flowers in the winter months of November and December. Because it is slow growing this is an excellent container plant or a bush for smaller gardens. F. japonica ‘Moseri’ Moseri is smaller than the typical variety but has plenty of foliage to get lost in, as well as large flowers on white stems which can appear in autumn and last through to winter (October to January) followed by large blackberries. Habitat & Growing Conditions F. japonica doesn’t need a lot of looking after or nurturing. It can be planted in full-sun, part-shade or shade in a variety of soil conditions. If there’s a drought in the summer it could do with a little watering and some fertiliser during spring and autumn doesn’t do any harm either. How To Grow Japanese Aralia With a new plant, the best time to put it in the soil in your garden is in the spring. That way the roots will have plenty of time to strengthen and grow so that the winter frosts don’t pose too much of a problem. It’s fine to plant in the autumn too, provided the soil is still warm enough. Just make sure you get the right spot in the first place though since this is a plant that definitely doesn’t like to be transplanted once settled! Exposure The location should be shaded and not directly in the face of cold winds. The hole for the root ball to sit in should be around six feet big as it will get bigger as it grows. In other words, you’ll need around double the size of the hole as the root ball itself. Feeding & Watering Add some organic fertiliser or blood, fish and bone into the hole for nourishment. Make sure the root ball is buried well and the soil is firm before you add water. The plant should also get plenty of water as it grows – be careful not to water too often though – or you may encourage the onset of fungal disease. Container Growing If your plant is in a container then remove the top two inches of soil annually and replace it with a fresher version. You’ll probably need to move it to a bigger pot in around two to three years’ time. Ongoing Plant Care When it comes to growing F. japonica you can bet your current soil is probably just fine. That’s because this most non-demanding of plants will grow in heavy clay soil, light soil and even soil mixed with chalk. It will also do well in areas of your garden where there is hardly any shade, such as under a tree. Another big plus-point of this plant? It will enhance your garden all year round – there are not many plants you can say that about. So, where’s the catch? Well, there isn’t one really, except most varieties will grow so fast that you will really have to keep an eye on it and prune back when it gets that bit too unruly. Pruning The best time to start pruning this plant is really towards the end of spring. Simply remove the summer-burnt leaves, as well as any shoots which look as if the winter frost has done its worst to them; at the same time remove any bare stems. Try to retain the shape and symmetry of the shrub as far as possible. “Although Fatsia japonica can be grown with only light pruning of dead or damaged stems and branches, harder pruning can be used to open up the shrub for aesthetic reasons,” adds Colin. You will probably have to prune back quite a bit of the bush in order to leave enough space for next year’s growth. Do so by cutting back the old stems first, down to ground level – this will give them an opportunity to regrow in a healthier manner. After you have pruned the bush there’s no harm in adding a little nourishment to the plant in the form of blood, fish and bone plant food – or any kind of organic fertiliser you can find. Winter Care Watch out for particularly chilly winters – too much cold and the leaves may start to fall off or, in some cases, turn black. And on this note, you may notice some leaves turning yellow and falling off in late summer. That’s perfectly normal and these will be replaced with new stems and leaves when spring comes around. Common Problems Pests Like most plants, F. japonica can be prone to an aphid infestation, however, this can be gotten rid of by means of a good spraying with a soap and water mix. The Capsid bug can also be a pain since this will eat through the new leaves and affect the flowers. This can be stopped with the use of an insecticide or by simply removing nearby weeds which could potentially be playing host to the bug. Finally, in terms of bugs and other insects, caterpillars may also go for your F. japonica – simply pick them off and place them far away from the plant in question. Fungal Disease Fungal infections can spring unexpectedly and result in blotchy-looking leaves. To prevent infections from spreading, always allow plenty of air circulation between plants. You can achieve this by weeding out anything getting in the way of your plant and by removing branches which appear to be clogging up others. Try to avoid the leaves being wet too. Shot hole disease is another fungal infection which leads to holes in the leaves. Shot hole Remove affected leaves and disinfect your shears to avoid spreading the disease. Feed and mulch the plant to give it as much nurturing as possible. References 1. Fatsia. (n.d.). Kew Royal Botanic Gardens. Retrieved March 15, 2023, from https://powo.science.kew.org/taxon/urn:lsid:ipni.org:names:3013-1 2. Fatsia japonica. (n.d.). University of Arizona. Retrieved March 15, 2023, from https://apps.cals.arizona.edu/arboretum/taxon.aspx?id=51
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Verbena Bonariensis Will Add Colour, Attract Butterflies And Complement Other Plants
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Why Grow Verbena? Planting Plant Care & Growing Tips Habitat & Growing Conditions Propagation Common Diseases & Problems References Verbena bonariensis is a perennial purple-topped plant that not only looks great but is also quite easy to grow and look after. Adding these plants to your garden will help to give it a unique look and add plenty of colour. You can buy V. bonariensis in containers or grow them yourself from seeds. Each approach has its advantages, but providing you take care of your plants properly, they should thrive and last for many years regardless of which option you choose. Overview Botanical Name Verbena bonariensis Common Name(s) Purple Top, Argentinian Vervain Plant Type Perennial Flower Native Area South America Hardiness Rating H4 Foliage Sparse, oblong leaves Flowers Spikes or panicles of small purple flowers When To Sow March, April, May Flowering Months June, July, August, September When To Prune March V. bonariensis is part of the Verbena family and goes by many names, including Purpletop Vervain, Tall Verbena, Argentinian Vervain and Pretty Verbena. It’s native to South America, but today it is grown in many different parts of the world.1 Because of its propensity to self-seed, it is considered an invasive species in some areas.2 For example, in Washington state, it’s on the invasive species list.3 There are also certain places where it’s considered to be a weed, including Australia, New Guinea and Fiji.4 Why Grow Verbena? Below are some of the main benefits of growing V. bonariensis in your garden: Adds Colour Many people want to add more colour to their garden and V. bonariensis are a great choice of plant to do this. With its vibrant purple flowers, it will stand out even amongst other colourful plants. Attracts Butterflies Verbena plants will also attract butterflies and other pollinators to your garden. This is beneficial as they will help to pollinate your plants and beautify your garden. Works Great With Other Plants Another great benefit is that it looks great when used with other plants, especially colourful perennials. Mixing it with plants of other colours makes it very easy to brighten up your garden. Planting When growing Verbena, you can either buy plants that have already been established or grow them yourself from seed. Let’s look at planting established plants first. Before planting, you should make sure you have a good spot for them. They do best in full sunlight but can also tolerate partial shade, so bear this in mind when picking your spot. When planting them, be sure to dig a generous-sized hole to accommodate the roots and it’s never a bad idea to use a good quality fertiliser after planting to encourage the best growth. If you’re growing from seed, then you have a couple of options – you can either plant them directly in the soil or grow them in containers first and plant them when they’re more established. If you plant the seeds directly, then the best time to do this would be in April/May. This will give them plenty of time to become established and they’ll benefit from direct exposure to the sun during the hottest period of the year. If you want to grow them indoors before planting, you should sow them around three months before you plan to plant them. The benefit to growing indoors is that you can grow your plants earlier, since they’ll be protected from frost during the winter. When To Plant The best time to plant (when planting directly in the soil) would be in early spring. As mentioned above, you can grow them earlier than this if you have them in containers. Plant Care & Growing Tips Watering How often you need to water your plants will vary depending on the season. Spring would be the best time to plant V. bonariensis and during the hotter periods in spring/summer, you should water them around once per week, taking care not to cause the soil to become waterlogged. Make sure to soak your plants well but don’t let them sit in oversaturated soil for too long since it can cause the roots to rot. To avoid this, you should water them on sunny days and water as early in the day as possible so there’s plenty of time for the sun to evaporate any water. Maintenance It’s a good idea to add a layer of mulch to your plants in the autumn. This will help to protect the roots during any frosty periods in the winter. Pruning Although these plants don’t require too much pruning, it can help to encourage new growth, so it’s not a bad idea to lightly prune them as you see fit. The best time to prune your plants is in early spring – usually around March – this will ensure that new growth comes through and your plants will be looking their best for the summer. Habitat & Growing Conditions V. bonariensis is native to South America and can be found in many countries throughout the region, including Brazil and Argentina. Butterflies love Verbena, so they’re a great choice if you want to attract them to your garden They enjoy a sunny climate, although they can still survive in colder climates, particularly as they self-seed so well. Propagation Propagating often isn’t necessary because these types of plants self-seed naturally – however you can propagate them yourself very easily using cuttings in containers. The best type of stems to use would be those that look healthy but don’t have any flowers or buds. Then, follow these instructions: Prepare a container by packing it with some good quality soil and then plant the cutting into it. You should make a hole that’s roughly 2/3 the size of the cutting when planting. Be sure to water it well immediately after planting. Although V. bonariensis generally enjoy the heat, it’s important that you don’t leave any cuttings in direct sunlight. Instead, you should find a partially shaded area and ideally use a propagation mat, so you can control the temperature. You should regularly check on your cuttings to make sure they’re thriving. You should only water them when the soil feels dry and it’s better to use a spray bottle rather than pouring water into it, since it’s very easy for the soil to become overly saturated. After 3-4 weeks, your cuttings should have taken root. To check if this is the case, you should gently pull them at the base. If you feel resistance, then they have taken root. You should wait another month or two before planting them outside. Be sure to pick a good spot, with plenty of space that gets at least some direct sunlight during the day. “If taking cuttings of Verbena boniarensis, I will do it in September and peel away side shoots from the main stem, which root easily,” shares Colin Skelly, a Horticultural Consultant. “I rarely do this, though, because they self-seed so readily and I harvest seedlings from the garden if I need them.” Common Diseases & Problems In general, V. bonariensis is resistant to diseases and pests, but there are certain problems it can suffer from: Powdery Mildew Powdery mildew is a common type of fungus that affects many plants. It gets its name from the fact that infected plants develop a layer of mould on their leaves that resembles powder. If you notice any plants that are affected by powdery mildew, you should remove and destroy them, since it can spread very easily. Powdery mildew thrives in moist conditions – knowing this will help you to take steps to prevent it from appearing in the first place. Firstly, you should make sure that there’s plenty of space between each plant. This will help to improve circulation. You should also take care when watering your plants to ensure you don’t get any water on the leaves. This is very often why powdery mildew develops. It’s also a good idea to water your plants earlier in the day, so there is plenty of time for them to dry out in the sun. Leaf Spot Leaf spot manifests by causing the leaves of infected plants to develop small red/brown spots. Not only does it look unsightly, but it also affects a plant’s ability to photosynthesize properly. If you notice any plants that are affected by leaf spot, then you should immediately dig them up and destroy them. As for avoiding leaf spot, the same advice for powdery mildew applies. You can treat less severely infected leaves with a fungal spray too. Rust Rust gets its name from the fact that infected leaves develop reddish/brown spots. If you catch it early, then it’s usually not too much of a problem and you can simply pick off any leaves that are affected. You can also use a fungicide to treat rust. However, if it’s more widespread, then it’s usually better to get rid of the plant to prevent it from spreading to others. Spider Mites Pests usually aren’t a problem for Verbena, but spider mites can sometimes be an issue. Not only do they pierce the leaves of plants, but female mites can lay many eggs, which hatch very quickly. If you notice spider mites on your plants, then you should spray them with water or use a good insecticide. Aphids Aphids can also be a problem for V. bonariensis, although they’re quite easy to get rid of. You can simply spray them with water to remove them from the leaves of your plants. It’s also a good idea to encourage insects that feed on them to inhabit your garden, such as ladybirds. Scale Scale infestation causes problems for plants for a couple of reasons. Firstly, it will make it difficult for affected plants to photosynthesize and therefore affect their growth. It can also cause plants to lose their leaves when it’s more serious. Using insecticidal soap can help to keep plants free of scale, but treatments may need to be done regularly to ensure you kill off any remaining eggs. References 1. Mahr, S. (n.d.-m). Verbena bonariensis. Wisconsin Horticulture. Retrieved March 27, 2023, from https://hort.extension.wisc.edu/articles/verbena-bonariensis/ 2. Verbena bonariensis (clusterflower vervain). (2022). CABI Compendium. https://doi.org/10.1079/cabicompendium.56181 3. Tall Verbena. (n.d.). Washington State Noxious Weed Control Board. Retrieved March 27, 2023, from https://www.nwcb.wa.gov/weeds/tall-verbena 4. Sweet, L. (2016, September 20). Verbena bonariensis Risk. California Invasive Plant Council. Retrieved March 27, 2023, from https://www.cal-ipc.org/plants/risk/verbena-bonariensis-risk/
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How To Grow Lupins - Traditional, Timeless Classics With Towering Spires
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Lupin Varieties How To Grow Lupins Lupin Care Propagation Common Problems References Say hello to what may be one of the most easily recognisable plants in the UK. Lupins are traditional, timeless classics that have been a firm favourite among British gardeners for over a century. These striking, stately plants, characterised by their towering spires, come in every imaginable colour – as well as a range of sizes – making them a real statement in any garden. Overview Botanical Name Lupinus Common Name(s) Lupins Plant Type Perennial / Annual Flower Native Area Americas, North Africa, Mediterranean Hardiness Rating H5 Foliage Palmate leaves Flowers Colourful, pea-like flowers When To Sow February, March, April, May Flowering Months June, July, August When To Prune July, August The name means “wolf” in Latin, because in times gone by it was believed that Lupins “wolfed” minerals and nutrients from the soil.1 And happily, it’s since been discovered that this myth bears no truth. In fact, Lupins aid soil by boosting nitrogen levels, and as a result, they’re commonly referred to as a “green manure” by gardeners.2 The hardy, boastful Lupinus – the Latin name for the plant – is a member of the pea family, although you’d be forgiven for not guessing that when you look at the flower. It’s prolific, too: there are over 200 species worldwide, some of which grow to a whopping five feet tall when in flower.3 Lupin Varieties Most varieties of Lupin are perennial, although this is not universally the case. In this guide we refer exclusively to the perennial member of the Lupin family. ‘Towering Inferno’ The name really says it all! This variety grows up to 90cm tall, and boasts vigorous, flaming orange bells, making it a bold statement in any garden. Flowering in summer and with gorgeous mid-bright green leaves, this plant is sure to make your garden pop. ‘Polar Princess’ While this might sound more like a character from a Disney film than a garden plant, this variety is worth getting to know. This radiant Lupin bears pure white, delicately scented flowers that bring a royal flourish to any flower bed. Blooming late into summer this variety epitomises country cottage living. ‘Manhattan Lights’ Another early-season variety, this showy Lupin is adorned by sweetly scented purple and yellow flowers. Gracing the garden from late spring to early summer, its gorgeous, decadent colours will be the envy of all your neighbours. ‘Dwarf Pink Fairy’ (Annual) With its short stature, this annual Lupin is perfect for garden borders. A soft pink, free-flowering variety that blooms all the way from early June to late August. It has lovely green, bushy foliage and in the evenings its delightful, sweet-pea scent will linger in the air. How To Grow Lupins Now you’ve seen just how varied and beautiful Lupins can be, you’re probably keen to get them going in your garden. This plant really is a vital ingredient for the quintessential British garden, so thankfully they are fairly easy to grow. These hardy plants are also inexpensive and wonderfully reliable. Here’s how to bring plant them out. Soil Requirements Lupins do not grow well in clay or chalky soil – they much prefer soil that is neutral to slightly acidic. Moist, well-drained soil is recommended as the optimum, but they will tolerate most garden conditions. Water-logged soil, however, is unsuitable and will most likely lead to rot. Where To Grow Lupins are sun worshipers, but they also enjoy cool soil. Positioning newly planted flowers where they will receive full sun in the morning and shade in the afternoon will give them the best of both worlds, and help them to survive the summer heat. Don’t plant in full shade: they won’t thrive. This plant likes a bit of space to thrive and lends itself well to being grown in a garden border more than a narrow flower bed. We don’t recommend planting Lupins in containers where possible, because this leads to less strong growth and can leave them more susceptible to aphids (more on these fellas later). Growing From Seed Lupins do not come true to seed, so if you plant seeds from a packet your lupins are likely to grow in a range of colours. We advise soaking the seed the night before planting to encourage germination. For the best chance of survival, sow in a seed tray from February to September, and keep this in a greenhouse or on a windowsill. Leave them until they have four leaves, then plant out into the garden. Once planted, water them once then leave them to find water on their own. They prefer to be kept just below room temperature (15-20°C) and, when conditions are correct, will sprout about two weeks from planting. Growing From Cuttings Lupins grown from cuttings will be the same as their parent plants, so if you want a particular variety this is the only way to go. If you’re taking a cutting, aim for a basal cutting (shoots of around 10cm growing near the base) taken in March or April. This plant puts out a strong system of roots, so for the best prospects, it’s worth planting them out while they’re as young as possible. They’re quite hardy and can withstand growing outside right away. “For the best cutting compost, I add one-part perlite to two-parts fine peat-free compost (normally compost sweepings from my potting shed floor),” shares Dan Ori, a Master Horticulturist. Planting Although there is some leeway with when to plant (we mentioned February to September for sowing earlier), Lupins tend to do best when sown in early March, hardened off in late April and planted out in early May. If you are harvesting seeds, this should be done in late summer, around early August. Before sowing, seeds can be soaked for 24 hours in a small amount of water. Though this isn’t necessary, it can help them to start growing more quickly. Lupin Care Lupins are diligent food-finders and don’t need any special feed. In fact, adding high-nitrogen plant feed can make them grow too much, and increase the risk of attracting the aphids we mentioned earlier. In winter, Lupin care is just a case of doing… nothing! They will die back, then new shoots will appear in spring with no intervention required. This really is a hardy and self-sufficient plant – perhaps one of the reasons it’s become such a staple in British gardens. Pruning This plant has a longer recovery time than some others, so we advise against chopping back too hard after flowering. It is important to deadhead a well-flowering Lupin, however, as growing lots of seeds will drain energy and vitality from the parent plant. Propagation Most Lupins have a life cycle of six to ten years, depending on growing conditions. So the time may very well come when you need to propagate your existing plants to ensure their continued presence in your garden. Thankfully, this type of plant can grow successfully from cuttings (see above) and, if you have a delicate hand, through division. Dividing Division is a bit harder, and is not necessarily recommended unless you are a very experienced gardener. Because of the structure of their roots, Lupins are prone to damage by division. Instead, we recommend growing a new plant from seed or cutting is advised for the best likelihood of a healthy plant. Common Problems Lupins are fairly hardy, but there are a few things to keep your eyes peeled for. Slugs & Snails The perpetual bane of any gardener’s life, Lupins are not spared from the incessant attention of these garden pests. A humane way to keep slugs and snails away is to create a garlic spray, and coat the leaves of your Lupin. “I was very dubious about the use of garlic sprays to deter slugs and snails, but some convincing studies have shown it is effective if you apply it regularly,” says Dan. “Knowing how regularly is a matter of trial and error, but those who have had success often apply a spray when they struggle to smell the garlic on the plant.” Young plants are especially prone to getting munched, so remain especially vigilant for the first couple of years. Giant Lupin Aphids Another hungry pest, aphids are keen to get their teeth into your Lupins. Once a colony takes hold of a plant they can cause it to wilt, they can be hard to dislodge. This is what you’re looking for: small, white aphids that swarm the stem of the plant. Gently rubbing leaves to remove them – or spraying with a stream of water that’s not too powerful – can do the trick, as can a variety of pesticides. Personally we recommend the former. Lupin Anthracnose While slugs and aphids are creatures, anthracnose is a fungal disease that can wreak havoc with your Lupins. It is not usually fatal but can cause a lot of damage from dieback. Dead, brown areas, slimy orange spores, and coiled leaves are telltale symptoms of anthracnose. Removing and destroying damaged leaves, and planting your Lupins so that air can flow freely around them are two ways of controlling and preventing this condition. Brown Spot This creatively named condition gives Lupins – you guessed it – brown spots. It’s caused by spores in the soil your plant is growing in, so moving the plant is the best way to prevent further damage. Once you’ve moved it, avoid planting any other Lupins in that spot for a few years – this will give the spores a chance to die off. Lupins have been popular in British gardens for generations, and with good reason. They’re hardy, versatile, varied, and, almost universally, beautiful. They’re easy to look after, resistant to weather, and although threatened by a few diseases and pests, many plants will live to maturity with little issue. References 1. Definition of lupine. (2023). In Merriam-Webster Dictionary. Retrieved March 21, 2023, from https://www.merriam-webster.com/dictionary/lupine 2. Maron, J., & Connors, P. (1996). A native nitrogen-fixing shrub facilitates weed invasion. Oecologia, 105(3), 302–312. https://doi.org/10.1007/bf00328732 3. Lupines (Genus Lupinus). (n.d.). iNaturalist. Retrieved March 21, 2023, from https://www.inaturalist.org/taxa/47121-Lupinus
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According To Beekeepers, These 14 Plants Are Irresistible To Bees
IN THIS GUIDE Plants For Bees By Season Choosing The Right Flowers 1) Crocus 2) Phacelia 3) Sedum 4) Winter Flowering Honeysuckle 5) Lavender 6) Aquilegia 7) Helenium Trees for Bees 8) Apple Trees 9) Holly Trees & Bushes 10) Sophora japonica Bee-Friendly Herbs 11) Borage 12) Oregano 13) Chives 14) Rosemary So Get Planting For Bees… References What could be more charming than sitting in your garden, watching the bees dance from flower to flower? And while their gentle buzzing certainly adds to the natural ambience, bees are also an integral part of our ecosystem. Bees are the world’s most important pollinators and we rely on them to pollinate up to a third of all the food we eat.1 Sadly, bees in the UK are under threat and, given how impactful they are on the success of our crops, losing them would be catastrophic.3 Bees need our help! Thankfully, as a gardener, you have the opportunity to make a difference. Attracting bees into your garden is not only a huge benefit to your plants, but you can also rest assured knowing you are making a positive impact on the planet as a whole. So if you have decided to embark on cultivating a bee-friendly, Earth-enhancing garden then this article is sure to set you on the right path. We’ve studied the six years of research by the University of Sussex and the Goulson Lab (run by Professor of Biology and bee expert Dave Goulson) to help identify the plants bees love the most.4 In short, their findings showed that Marjoram, Fleabane, Lamb’s Ear, Wallflowers, Buddleja, Verbena, Catmint and Borage are all among the flowers most appealing to bees. Plants For Bees By Season “The best way to attract bees to gardens is to grow plants, shrubs and trees that have flowers,” says Mariusz Chudy, the owner of Goldendrops Bee Farm. Choosing a range of plants that flower in different seasons can benefit bees and pollinators across the entire year, rather than a short period in the year. “I always encourage people to grow native plants where they can for bees, as there is good evidence that natives tend to attract more pollinating insects on average,” shares Bee Ecologist Dave Goulson. “They also provide food plants for caterpillars, moths and other insects, which tend to be quite fussy with what they feed on, whereas non-natives tend not to be suitable foods for these. “Thankfully, there are loads of plants that are attractive to bees and wildlife, including lots of pretty ones!” Here are some of the top plants to grow for each season; choosing and growing just a few from each would be truly beneficial for your local wildlife: Season Plants Spring WallflowersFleabaneAquilegiaHollyRosemary Summer MarjoramPhaceliaLavenderHeleniumHollyhockBorageChives Autumn SedumOreganoSephora Japonica Winter CrocusWinter Flowering HoneysuckleApple Tree “My favourite plants are beautiful, robust, pollinator-friendly and can cope in the public realm without requiring watering,” shares Karen Liebreich, Gardener and Author. We include more detail on some of these bee-friendly plants below, as well as a few of Dave’s videos to help in your quest. Let’s get to it! Choosing The Right Flowers As we’ve said, bees bring life to your garden and vice versa. The nectar that bees forage for is packed with sugar which gives them the energy to stay busy. The pollen provides vital proteins and oil to keep them healthy. “In short, bees prefer simple, open flowers,” says Peter Benefer, the Director of Benefers’ Bees. “They see in the ultra violet spectrum and will go to flowers that give them the best reward in terms of nectar and pollen. “Think of clothing that shows up in a nightclub, as that is what will be showing up in the bees’ eyes.” It’s interesting to note that different species of bee have tongues of different lengths, so choosing a variety of flower shapes will allow more bees to enjoy your garden. When it comes to choosing the right flowers a good, solid goal is to aim to cater for as many different species of bees as possible, as well as picking plants that flower in different seasons ensuring that you are providing for them all year round. 1) Crocus A firm favourite among hairy-footed flower bees and queen bumblebees, these springtime flowers are the perfect start to their busy year. Not only do these plants add a delightful splash of colour to your garden, but they provide vital shelter for bees who will often take refuge in them overnight. If you’re lucky you should catch them leaving in the morning, laden with pollen. 2) Phacelia According to Biologist Dave Goulson, Phacelia is “perhaps the single most attractive plant for bees on the planet.” With a sweet scent, pretty blue flowers, and ferny leaves, this summer flowering plant produces an abundance of nectar and pollen, and is sure to keep your garden buzzing. 3) Sedum This traditional classic flowers late into summer and early autumn. Its large umbrella-shaped blooms are super accessible for hungry bees, making this a popular plant for several types of species. 4) Winter Flowering Honeysuckle This highly fragrant plant sports gorgeous, tubular flowers making them perfect pitstops for winter-active bumble bees. A native plant and intrepid climber whose flowers are followed by berries, which will also attract many species of birds. 5) Lavender Bees adore lavender and this perennial plant grows back year after year. What’s more, it flowers during the midsummer gap – a time where, surprisingly, there is little forage and honey bees are at their hungriest. Lavender also repels moths, fleas, flies, and mosquitoes so this fragrant flower really is the gift that keeps on giving! 6) Aquilegia Aquilegia (or ‘Grannys Bonnet’) is a herbaceous perennial that should return each year. It usually flowers in late-spring or early summer when bees tend to be very active and has many beautiful and colourful varieties to choose from. 7) Helenium Perennial flower Helenium (or ‘Sneezeweed’) is a firm favourite with bees of all sizes, including many smaller solitary bees. While it should come back each year, it may need to be planted as an annual depending on which area of the UK you live in. It should flower across 3-4 months in late summer and autumn. Trees for Bees If you are fortunate enough to have space, planting a tree is a wonderful, forward-thinking way to provide food and shelter for bees far into the future. Equally, for those among you with a more modest-sized garden, ornamental fruit trees are an elegant alternative to keep the bees happy without compromising on valuable space! 8) Apple Trees Not only does this tree bear one of the world’s most popular fruits, it is also irresistible to honey bees. Whilst the bees keep your apple tree producing healthy fruits and seeds, the tree provides the bees with the energy and raw material they need to produce delicious honey: certainly one of nature’s sweetest treasures! 9) Holly Trees & Bushes As well as its signature, spiky foliage, this festive plant also produces small white flowers in springtime which provide an abundant food source to help bees thrive. Come autumn, its berries will also attract plenty of birds and other, wildlife keeping your garden brimming with life. 10) Sophora japonica Also known as the Chinese Scholar Tree, this ornamental plant grows to around 1m in height. With delicate pea-shaped flowers and feathery foliage, this miniature marvel flowers late into summer and early autumn, making it particularly helpful for bees. Bee-Friendly Herbs Not only are they great for our cooking, but lots of herbs are also loved by bees too. These plants are also especially good for small gardens, so bear in mind that even if you only have a patio to work with, you can still encourage bees to visit you! 11) Borage Nick-named “Bees Bread” because of its nectar-rich blue flowers, this magical little herb is a real hit with bees of many types! Not only will it keep bees well-fed, you can also add its delectable, edible flowers to salads or freeze them in ice cubes to chill your summer cocktails. 12) Oregano A fragrant and essential culinary herb, oregano is loved by honey bees, bumblebees, and a whole range of solitary bees. It flowers in a range of pretty pink shades and the leaves can be added fresh to a wealth of dishes or, alternatively, can be frozen or dried to be used throughout the year. 13) Chives This herb can be eaten fresh from the garden and is easy to grow from seeds. For bees to benefit from chives however, you need to allow them to flower. The purple florets provide plenty of nectar and are particularly well-loved by bumblebees. 14) Rosemary A brilliant food source for bees with a long flowering season, this hardy and fragrant herb can also be harvested for its needles and added to a variety of meats, poultry, and fish. Flowering in summer it provides plentiful nectar to keep your bees from buzzing off! So Get Planting For Bees… Hopefully we’ve given you plenty of ideas to give friendly bees a helping hand. And helping bees really does help your garden as well as our planet’s delicate ecosystem. Regardless of the size of your garden, you can still make a real difference to the bees in your area. According to Horticulturist Colin Skelly, “The artist Alexandra Daisy Ginsberg has produced an algorithm to produce a planting scheme that optimises the resource for bees (and other pollinators). “There are versions at the Eden Project in Cornwall, Hyde Park and Berlin and the website of the project can produce a unique version for your own garden.” You should also consider actively neglecting your garden and letting plants that are commonly considered weeds grow unabated. Studies have revealed that areas where gardens are left unkempt are often a haven for many species of bees.5 With so many plants to choose from it won’t be long until your garden is completely buzzing, in fact, we’re convinced it’s going to be the bee’s knees! References 1. Would we starve without bees? (2019, August 27). BBC Teach. Retrieved March 22, 2023, from https://www.bbc.co.uk/teach/would-we-starve-without-bees/zkf292p 3. Bees under siege from habitat loss, climate change and pesticides. (2019, May). WWF. Retrieved March 22, 2023, from https://www.wwf.org.uk/sites/default/files/2019-05/EofE%20bee%20report%202019%20FINAL_17MAY2019.pdf 4. Plants for honey bees and other flower visitors. (2017, July 17). The Laboratory of Apiculture and Social Insects: University of Sussex. Retrieved March 22, 2023, from https://www.sussex.ac.uk/lasi/resources/plants 5. Ashby, R. (2012, May 10). Keeping up with the Joneses harms Britain’s bees. University of Leeds. Retrieved March 22, 2023, from https://www.leeds.ac.uk/news/article/3198/keeping_up_with_the_joneses_harms_britains_bees
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