Growing
How Experts Grow Guernsey Lilies With Tips From Two Respected Nerine Enthusiasts
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Habitat & Growing Conditions Guernsey Lily Varieties Other Nerines Guernsey Lily Benefits How To Grow Nerine Nerine Care & Maintenance Common Problems References There are many types of flowers you can plant to add great colour and interest to your garden, but few are as incredible as the Guernsey lily. The great thing about Guernsey lilies is that unlike a lot of other flower species, they’re able to easily withstand the harsh conditions of UK winters, so you don’t have to worry about them struggling to cope with colder temperatures and frost. Guernsey lilies come in a variety of colours and are perfect for growing in your garden, in pots or using the cuttings as part of a display. In this guide, we collaborate with a few respected nerine enthusiasts here in the UK: Caroline Stone – Journal Editor of ‘Amaryllids’, The Nerine and Amaryllid Society’s own published journal. Nick de Rothschild – Oversees the Exbury Nerines collection at Exbury Gardens. “Nerines are such wonderful plants for the Autumn, providing bright colour to carry us into the winter,” says Caroline. Overview Botanical Name Nerine Common Name(s) Guernsey Lily Plant Type Perennial Flower Native Area South Africa Hardiness Rating H5 Foliage Linear leaves which show after flowering Flowers Lily-like pink flowers When To Sow March, April Flowering Months September, October, November, December Let’s start by looking at the origins of the flower. Guernsey lilies, also known by their botanical name as ‘Nerine’ plants, are a type of flower that originates from South Africa.1 Although they originate from South Africa, they have been cultivated on the island of Guernsey for more than 300 years, hence their name.2 The genus Nerine, which Guernsey Lilies belong to, was first established in 1820 by Reverend William Herbert.3 Habitat & Growing Conditions Guernsey lilies are native to South Africa, which means they are best suited to a temperate climate and cannot cope with prolonged exposure to extreme heat or cold. Knowing the conditions that Guernsey lilies grow in the wild is certainly useful when you’re growing your own. They grow best when they’re not disturbed and can be grown in bunches, provided you provide adequate space between each bulb. Guernsey Lily Varieties The term ‘Guernsey Lily’ is often used to describe the various types of nerine plants, with the two most common being N. bowdenii and N. sarniensis. Below is a description of both plants – Nerine bowdenii N. bowdenii is the first type of Guernsey lily and the variety that people most often think of when they hear the name. It has distinctive bright pink flowers and does well in temperate climates. N. sarniensis The other prominent type of Guernsey lily is N. sarniensis, which shares a lot of similarities with N. bowdenii, being suited to temperate climates. The main visual difference between the two is the colour of their flowers, which are scarlet as opposed to pink. N. sarniensis is also less hardy than N. bowdenii, requiring winter protection to survive. “We have one of the finest collections of N. sarniensis in the world,” says Nick, when discussing his collection of nerines at Exbury Gardens. “These nerines produce a wondrous spectacle in October that is just amazing to observe.” Other Nerines There are some other excellent plants in the Nerine genus that allow you to add a further range of colours to your garden. “Increase the colour range of hardy nerines by growing several varieties,” says Caroline. Her recommended varieties include: N. bowdenii ‘Isabel’ N. bowdenii ‘Stefanie’ N. bowdenii ‘Ella K’ N. bowdenii ‘Bianca Perla’ N. ‘Regina’ N. ‘Wolsey’ N. ‘Dingaan’ Below are some of the best ones to try: N. bowdenii ‘Alba’ N. bowdenii ‘Alba’ has white star-shaped flowers and is excellent for use with other types of Guernsey lilies. It looks great either in a container, border or garden bed; you can also cut them to display in a vase if you want. Alba plants are hardy, so you don’t have to worry about them being exposed to wind/frost etc. in winter. You should plant them in soil that’s well-drained and in a spot that gets good exposure to the sun. N. undulata N. undulata is another beautiful variety and would be perfect planted in a sunny border, providing it gets some shelter later in the day. It will generally do best in soil that’s not too saturated. Guernsey Lily Benefits Below are some of the main benefits of growing these plants – They help to add colour and interest to your garden. They’re suitable for being planted in flower beds as well as pots and containers. They’re completely hardy, so you don’t have to worry about them getting damaged or dying during harsh weather conditions in the winter. They generally don’t suffer from any diseases or pests. They can be bought very easily. They are very easy to grow. They look great when planted together in bunches. How To Grow Nerine You have the option to grow Guernsey lilies either directly in the soil of a flower bed or border; or in containers. They do well in either growing method providing they get enough water and sunlight. “I would recommend growing nerines in a glasshouse or a frost-free greenhouse,” says Nick. “They like square, plastic 2-litre pots for the most successful flowering. I’ve found that this also is the best choice for their annual root development.” Container Growing Growing Guernsey lilies in pots or containers is quite simple, but it’s important you take the right steps at the beginning to make sure they flower well. The first step is to fill your container with soil. You don’t need to be too particular about the condition or the pH of the soil; providing it’s not too moist it will be fine. Dig a hole in the soil and place the bulb in it, leaving an inch above the top of it. If you’re planting multiple bulbs in the same container, then you should leave roughly 8-10 inches between them, so they have enough room to grow. In the UK climate, it’s usually okay to leave potted Guernsey lilies on a windowsill. This way you can ensure it gets a good amount of sunlight during the day and shade in the evening. Make sure to water the plants generously when you notice they’re growing. However, “don’t over water, as waterlogging will cause the bulbs to rot,” warns Caroline. “In the greenhouse, withhold water from N. sarniensis when they go dormant and wait until signs of growth (usually in August in the UK) before starting to water again.” You should notice foliage first beginning to appear in the spring and summer, with the flower stems appearing in autumn. Flower Beds & Borders When you’re planting Guernsey lilies in a flower bed, the same basic planting procedure mentioned above should be used. The most important part of planting Guernsey lilies outdoors is that you find the right spot for them. “If you live in coastal areas of southern or western UK, you probably have mild enough winters to grow nerines outside all year round,” says Horticulturist Colin Skelly. “I grow them at the base of south-facing walls. They flower best when they form clumps, declining only when they become tightly overcrowded (when they should be divided).” The soil where you plant them should drain well and not be susceptible to waterlogging. Nick recommends Johns Innes No. 3 for nerine bulb planting. If water gathers in the soil hours after a downpour, you should find another spot. Dig holes in the soil where you want to place your bulbs and plant them with the necks roughly an inch above soil level, as Caroline explains: “Hardy nerines (mostly N. bowdenii) are very easy to grow but you must remember to plant them so the neck of the bulb shows above the ground.” Again, if you’re planting multiple bulbs, then just be sure to leave enough space between them. Water them well after planting, as well as during dry spells and when you notice new growth. Planting Bulbs The best time to plant Guernsey lilies is in spring. Planting the bulbs at this time will give them plenty of time to get established, with the first signs of growth appearing in early autumn. Nerine Care & Maintenance Generally, Guernsey lilies are very hardy and can cope well with harsh conditions. Still, it’s not a bad idea to use mulch in the winter to prevent the soil from becoming frozen and cracking. It’s also important to avoid moving your lilies once they’ve been planted. Guernsey lilies don’t cope well with being disturbed, so you should avoid doing this unless completely necessary. It’s a good idea to add some bulb food or fertiliser when you first plant Guernsey lily bulbs as this will help to encourage growth. “Remember to divide clumps of hardy nerines when they get congested,” Caroline advises. “This will give you more bulbs to spread around your garden!” Common Problems One of the many great things about Guernsey lilies is that they’re not nearly as prone to diseases and pests as a lot of other plant species; in fact, they’re generally considered to be disease-free. Although Guernsey plants are very hardy and resistant to diseases and pests, this doesn’t mean they’re completely problem-free. “Tender nerines (N. sarniensis) need to be given winter protection such as a greenhouse – and you also need to watch out for mealybugs, which can be an issue in greenhouses,” says Caroline. “A systematic bug killer can be applied in August whe root growth is active to get rid of mealybugs,” adds Nick. N. sarniensis One problem that Guernsey lilies can suffer from is not flowering. This is usually because proper care hasn’t been taken to provide the plants with the best environment. Some rules to adhere to if you want them to flower are – 1) Plant Them In Good Soil Although Guernsey lilies are hardy plants, it’s still necessary to ensure they’re planted in soil that’s in decent condition. Soil that’s very dry and cracked or overly saturated should be avoided. 2) Allow Enough Room For The Bulb When Planting You’ll certainly want to ensure that you leave enough room when planting the bulb so it’s able to grow. Dig a hole in the soil and when placing the bulb in it, leave the top of bulb roughly an inch above soil level. 3) Water Regularly In the months after you first plant Guernsey lily bulbs, it’s vital that you make sure you water them regularly. How much you need to water your bulbs will depend on the weather and where they’re planted. If you have them in pots, then soaking them once every couple of weeks will work well. If your bulbs are planted outdoors, then you should water your plants after they’re first planted, during dry spells and when you notice any new flowers emerging. “You can also feed during the growing period with a weak tomato fertiliser,” Nick suggests. 4) Make Sure They Get Plenty Of Sunlight Sunlight is equally important for Guernsey lilies as water. You should place any plants that you have in a spot where they’ll get plenty of sunlight during the day. If you put your bulbs in pots, then you should place them on a windowsill or somewhere else where they can get sunlight. Outdoor plants should be planted in a spot where they get at least some sunlight during the day. References 1. Nerine. (n.d.-b). Kew Royal Botanic Gardens. Retrieved March 16, 2023, from https://powo.science.kew.org/taxon/urn:lsid:ipni.org:names:1561-1 2. Nerine. (n.d.-c). Royal Horticultural Society. Retrieved March 16, 2023, from https://www.rhs.org.uk/plants/nerine 3. Nerines. (2009, September 18). The Northern Echo. Retrieved March 16, 2023, from https://www.thenorthernecho.co.uk/opinion/latest/4636850.nerines/
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Use Good Drainage To Grow Perfect Daffodils Say These Narcissus Specialists
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Planting Daffodils Daffodil Care Soil & Fertilisation Preferred Aspect When Do Daffodils Bloom? Pruning Common Problems Storing Bulbs References Daffodils are among the most popular of perennial flowers, radiating, as they do, a merry innocence with their nodding friendliness, and offering – dare we say – “such a jocund company”!1 Narcissus, commonly called ‘daffodil’ in the United Kingdom and Northern USA, is a genus of long-lived perennial spring bulbs. In this guide, we’ve teamed up with: Anne Wright, Owner of Dryad Nursery. Janet Hickman, President of The American Daffodil Society. “Daffodils brighten up the spring,” says Janet, when asked why she is so passionate about growing these lovely flowering bulbs. “They are easy to grow, require no special pesticides, chemicals, or pruning techniques and are not generally troubled by deer or other garden invaders.” Daffodil flowers typically comprise of a conspicuous corona surrounded by six tepals. Flattened strap-like leaves are attached to the base of the main stem. Overview Botanical Name Narcissus Common Name(s) Daffodil Plant Type Bulb Native Area Southern Europe and North Africa Hardiness Rating H6 Foliage Herbaceous, linear leaves Flowers Recognisable flowers with trumpet or cup-like centres When To Sow September, October Flowering Months February, March, April, May When To Prune July The botanical origins of Narcissi lie in the Iberian Peninsula some 25 to 20 million years ago.2 Although the landmasses surrounding the Mediterranean Sea are prime daffodil country where the greatest diversity is found, the flower occurs naturally in most of Europe, in Northern Africa, and eastwards through to Iran. Its habitats are many and varied as daffodils grow on rocky escarpments as well as marshland, in Switzerland’s mountainous pastures and in French grasslands and woods. Although Narcissus plants were much-liked and cultivated even in Ancient Times, their popularity took off in the 16th Century when they began to be cultivated.3 Poet’s Daffodil a.k.a. ‘Pheasant’s Eye’ Then along came William Wordsworth and catapulted this hitherto humble wildflower into stratospheric fame in the early 1800s.4 Since then, varieties and cultivars of this wildflower have multiplied even more rapidly. The UK is the world’s leading producer of daffodil bulbs and is also a top-three exporter.5 Planting Daffodils Daffodil are among the easiest flowers to plant and grow, as Anne explains: “They don’t take up much space and add pleasing colours to a perennial garden.” Bulbs are usually planted from September and October, latest by November. Planted thus in autumn, they put out roots through the winter with their flowers being the voiceless heralds of spring. The bulbs should be planted with the nose up, 8-15cm deep depending on the size of the bulb and kept well-watered. “They like plenty of water while they are actively growing but dry conditions while dormant,” says Janet. Daffodil Care In view of the vast variety of daffodils and the geographical regions and terrains that they inhabit, a one-size-fits-all approach to feeding and care is not possible. Soil & Fertilisation That stated, as a general rule daffodils are perfectly content in any old soil but they thrive especially well in rich, loamy soils. Good drainage is necessary for this bulbous plant – and Anne Wright even considers it the most important factor in their care. Daffodils’ optimal soil pH range is 6.5-7.0 but they are not fussy and make do in more acidic or alkaline soils. Experts from both Dryad Nursery and the American Daffodil Society agree that fertilising your daffodils can help improve the plant’s general health. They do very well without fertiliser but if your soil is poor or the plants are not healthy, sprinkle some bone meal, special bulb fertiliser, or a feed like Growmore when the plants are flowering. Janet recommends choosing a feed that is low in nitrogen for your daffodils. Preferred Aspect Daffodils have a preference for sun but also do quite well in partial shade. “If planting in partial shade, the site may become shadier as time passes and surrounding trees and shrubs develop,” shares Colin Skelly, a Horticultural Consultant. “This may cause the daffodils to come up ‘blind’ (not flower). “Cut back to allow light to reach the foliage to allow more energy to be stored in the bulb – this should restore flowering.” The Tahiti Daffodil Daffodils should be watered regularly in spring and autumn. They take the summer ‘off’ – going dormant and should not be watered during this season. When Do Daffodils Bloom? Daffodils begin to bloom as early as February. Most species and cultivars bloom in March and April, with some putting out flowers in early May. May is the month that Montreaux, renowned for its jazz festivals, holds its annual Narcissi Festival.6 Over and above daffodils’ natural blooming cycle, as daffodil flowers are in demand in December, bulbs are manipulated by keeping them at different temperatures for varying periods of time before they are planted in a greenhouse in November for the plant to bloom in mid-December. This is called ‘forcing’. Pruning “Since it is relatively uncommon for modern hybrid daffodils to set seeds without a hybridizer’s help, deadheading is not an essential chore,” says Janet. “If deadheading for appearance’s sake, leave the stem while it is green to continue nourishing the bulb.” After the flowering season is over in May, the leaves develop reserves of energy for the bulbs. Let them be until they are wilted and dead, which will usually happen about eight weeks after flowering season, and then cut them back. “Don’t accidentally dig them up when they’re dormant!” warns Anne. “Once planted, I leave them in the ground and don’t lift and divide them for the best results.” Common Problems Daffodils are typically healthy pest- and disease-resistant plants. However, if and when they are afflicted by something, the causes can be many and widespread. Pests include the narcissus bulb fly, their larvae, nematodes, slugs and snails. They can also be infected by viruses and fungi, basal rot or other types of rot. Narcissus Bulb Fly The narcissus bulb fly, easily mistaken for a smallish bumble bee, itself does no harm. The problem is that it lays eggs in the soil from which larvae emerge and burrow into the bulb. They feed upon the bulb from within and destroy it. You can make your soil larva-resistant by packing it tightly, mulching it, and using insect nets. Remove and discard infested bulbs to prevent the infestation from spreading. Nematodes If your bulbs are infested with nematodes, for severe infestations you will be best off disposing of the infested bulbs and also quarantining the patch of soil where the infestation occurred. Fungal Issues “Basal rot caused by the fungus Fusarium oxysporum can destroy or damage bulbs, especially in any ground that stays too wet,” says Janet. If your bulb has basal rot, you will have to throw it away. One of the best ways to practice the prevention principle is to buy bulbs from reputable and established growers and sellers, to plant only the biggest bulbs, to plant bulbs that have no wounds, mould, or discolouration, and to ensure that your soil is not waterlogged and is well-drained. Ensuring good gardening habits is also important to prevent the spread of disease, Janet explains: “Take care when disinfecting tools and pick daffodils by snapping the stem rather than cutting them, as this can help prevent the spread of viruses that affect the blooms or leaves.” Storing Bulbs If you are planning to store bulbs dug up from the soil, first trim the roots by snipping off their unattached, free-running parts. Then sun dry the bulbs for about 12 hours and store them in a dry room for a further 12 hours as it is important that they be free of dampness. Regardless of whether the bulbs have been dug up or are freshly-bought, store them in a cool, dry, and dark room. The optimal temperature is between 16-18°C with a margin of, say, three degrees. Keep them in a mesh bag so that the bulbs are exposed to air. If you live in a warm climate and do not have a climate-controlled room, store the bulbs in the fridge’s crisper but do not keep any fruit, especially apples, in the same fridge. Do Daffodil Bulbs Multiply In The Ground? Yes, they produce offsets or ‘daughter’ bulbs, and over time clumps of bulbs are formed. This is known as cloning. Image Credit: Dietmar Rabich, Licence The daughter bulbs are smaller and are positioned right beside the parent bulb which initially nourishes the ‘daughter’. As the bulbs multiply, after some years too many bulbs end up occupying a relatively small area of soil. When this happens the bulbs need to be dug up and separated. References 1. Wordsworth, W. (n.d.). daffodils. Retrieved March 14, 2023, from https://www.sccs.swarthmore.edu/users/01/jillyb/daffodils.htm 2. New data on daffodils of the Narcissus nevadensis complex (Amaryllidaceae) in SE Spain: (n.d.). Phytotaxa. Retrieved March 14, 2023, from https://www.biotaxa.org/Phytotaxa/article/view/phytotaxa.371.2.8 3. Rowallane Garden. (n.d.). National Trust. Retrieved March 14, 2023, from https://www.nationaltrust.org.uk/visit/northern-ireland/rowallane-garden 4. I Wandered Lonely as a Cloud by William Wordsworth. (n.d.). Poetry Foundation. Retrieved March 14, 2023, from https://www.poetryfoundation.org/poems/45521/i-wandered-lonely-as-a-cloud 5. Why don’t we grow daffodils in Wales? (2013, April 19). North Wales Live. Retrieved March 14, 2023, from https://www.dailypost.co.uk/business/business-news/dont-grow-daffodils-wales-2914445 6. The narcissus forecasting. (n.d.). Narcisses. Retrieved March 14, 2023, from https://www.narcisses.com/
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How To Grow And Care For Japanese Maples According To Agustin Coello-Vera
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Habitat & Growing Conditions How To Grow A Japanese Maple Japanese Maple Care FAQs References Japanese maples are small, deciduous maple trees with decorative foliage, known particularly for their spectacular display of bright red and orange-coloured leaves in the autumn months. There are a variety of Japanese maples of all different shapes, sizes and leaf colours, so you can select one which will best suit your space. They make for a great way to add colour and interest to your garden throughout the year. Across each of our Acer guides, we have collaborated with Agustin Coello-Vera, Chairman of The Maple Society. “Maples are entrancing trees with the ability to fascinate many people and are of interest throughout the year,” says Agustin. Japanese maple can be grown outside in the UK – or, as the tree is small and slow-growing, it’s well-suited to container growth. To add an oriental feel to your garden, accompanied by a burst of flaming red, orange and gold every autumn, read on for our best Japanese maple growing tips, for everything you need to know about caring for this colourful tree. Overview Botanical Name Acer palmatum Common Name(s) Japanese Maple Plant Type Tree Native Area Japan; East Asia Hardiness Rating H6 Foliage Paired, often palmately-lobed leaves, often vibrant foliage, especially in autumn When To Sow January, February, March, October, November, December Flowering Months March, April, May When To Prune January, December Japanese maples (Acers) are slow-growing trees originating from Japan and other parts of Asia. The red cultivars are particularly popular in Europe, and all colours are frequent additions to oriental-style gardens. Most Japanese maple trees grow to a maximum of 2m in height – although there are some varieties that can reach up to 10m. Due to their small size, Japanese maples are ideally suited to smaller gardens, borders and containers. There are hundreds of cultivars of Japanese maple. Leaf colour varies dramatically across cultivars – new leaves can be anything from lime green to pink or purple, whilst autumn colouring ranges from yellow and orange, to bright red and burgundy. Other names for Japanese maple include red emperor maple and palmate maple (so-called after the shape of the leaves). Habitat & Growing Conditions The native habitat of the Japanese maple is, unsurprisingly, Japan – as well as parts of Korea, where it grows in a temperate climate.1 “The popular Japanese maples come from an area with rich, acid, sandy soils where it rains a lot throughout the year,” explains Agustin. “The closer your growing conditions are to those conditions, the happier your Japanese maples will be.” “Japanese maples are hardy but should be grown in sheltered non-waterlogged sites,” argues Horticulturist Dan Ori. “They will often tolerate a range of soil conditions but prefer slightly acidic moist soil. “As my soil is alkaline I grow my Japanese Acers in containers using peat-free ericaceous compost and water with rainwater to keep the soil pH acidic, I top dress a 5cm (2inch) layer of fresh ericaceous compost each autumn or spring.” Most cultivars favour a shaded or partially shaded growing location, although some sun is required for redder varieties. The tree can tolerate and grow in most soil types, including sand and clay, although it prefers soil with a high content of organic matter. “There is a difference between tolerating with lots of help and years to adapt, rather than thriving from the moment it is planted,” says Dan Ori. “Japanese Acers will tolerate most soil types but only really do well in acidic moist but not wet soil.” How To Grow A Japanese Maple You can buy Japanese maple as grafted trees from garden centres and online retailers. If you’re seeking a specific variety, specialist growers and flower shows often have a more extensive range. Look for healthy-looking, colourful foliage, with no brown tips to the leaves, or obvious signs of pests. You can also grow Japanese maple from seeds, however, you should be aware that they will not grow true to their cultivar. Planting Japanese maples are most often grown from grafted trees, although it is possible to grow them from seed. The best time to plant them is from October to March. Exposure Although they are hardy plants, they do best when placed in sheltered spots, out of strong winds with some dappled shade. You can grow Japanese maple in your garden borders, or in a container – a container has the advantage of allowing you to move the tree between sunny and shaded areas. However, be aware that you will need to re-pot every couple of years. Japanese Maple Care Trees growing in a container will also need to be lifted off the ground and the roots covered over winter, to protect them from frost (trees growing in the ground should not require any protection). The roots require plenty of space to grow, so try not to position Japanese maple too close to other plants; although they like to spread out, the roots don’t go deep – you should plant with the roots no more than 3cm below the surface of the soil. Watering & Feeding Water the tree regularly when first planted, particularly over the first summer. Continue to water during periods of dry weather, or if growing your tree in a container. Add organic fertiliser and mulch to the soil annually in spring, to encourage moisture retention and aid growth (do not allow the mulch to touch the trunk, as this can cause it to rot). FAQs Should My Japanese Maple Be Given Full Sun Or Shade? Most cultivars of Japanese maple prefer dappled shade. There are some exceptions – cultivars with bright red and purple leaves need access to full sun in order to develop their deep colouring. Poor autumn colouring can also be a sign your tree is not getting enough sunlight. Make sure to research what your chosen cultivar needs before planting. When Should You Plant A Japanese Maple? The best time to plant a Japanese maple is during the winter months, from October to March. This allows the roots of the plant to become established whilst the tree is in its winter dormancy period. What Should I Do If My Japanese Maple’s Bark Starts Splitting? Bark splitting is a fairly common problem for Japanese maples, as they have thin bark. Splitting can be caused by animals, or by unfavourable environmental conditions – for example, overexposure to sunlight, cold winds, or cold temperatures in late spring, after the tree has begun expanding for the growing season. “Japanese maples should always be grown in a sheltered position to minimise leaf scorch and splitting of stems and branches,” advises Dan Ori. “Splitting problems can occur when frosted plants and hit by the early morning sun.” If your Japanese maple’s bark starts splitting, you should firstly prune away any damaged bark on its branches. If your tree is healthy, it will hopefully recover by itself, in time. If not, you should consult an Arborist for professional advice on how to proceed. To help prevent bark splitting, try to plant your Japanese maple in a sheltered spot, and keep it sufficiently watered and mulched, especially during dry periods. References 1. Acer palmatum Thunb. (n.d.). Kew Royal Botanic Gardens. Retrieved March 9, 2023, from https://powo.science.kew.org/taxon/urn:lsid:ipni.org:names:927504-1
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Why You Should Be Using Green Manures To Improve Soil Structure And Weed Suppression
IN THIS GUIDE What Are Green Manures? Characteristics Of Green Manures Examples Of Green Manure Crops What Are The Best Green Manure Crops For Allotments? How To Sow Green Manures How To Dig In Green Manure Crops Disadvantages Of Green Manuring References Green manures refer to a group of small, green, annual or herbaceous plants, that are sown, grown and ploughed (dug in), in order to add organic matter to the soil and improve its structure and nutrient content. Some plants do this by helping to prevent soil erosion, whilst others trap nitrogen on their root nodules. The foliage of many of these plants acts as a natural weed suppressant. All green manures absorb nutrients from the soil and, once grown, are dug back in, to return the nutrients in a more usable form. This benefits new crops and can be particularly helpful in a vegetable garden. “Most green manures are fast growing plants which can win the race for light against weeds, but remember that their speediness also means they can become weeds themselves.“To prevent this, digging in before they set seed is imperative for many species, otherwise a population can build up and get in the way of any crops you choose to follow your green manure with.“They do not need to be at the expense of aesthetics – some, including bitter lupin, are visually attractive plants which also appeal to pollinators.” Peter Lickorish MHort (RHS) – Horticulturist Common plants used as green manures include mustard, buckwheat, legumes and winter tares – although there are many more varieties which may be used for this purpose. Green manures can help all soil types and are a reasonably quick, effective and underrated way to improve your soil. Using this technique, your soil could be enriched, and ready to grow new crops in a matter of weeks. What Are Green Manures? Green manures – also known as cover crops – is the name given to a selection of small, green, fast-growing plants, which are sown, grown and dug into soil, with the intention of improving the soil quality. They can do this in a variety of ways, including by improving the structure of the soil, suppressing weed growth, adding usable nitrogen, and attracting desirable insects, depending on the type of plant sown.1 The one thing all green manures have in common is that they draw in minerals and nutrients from the soil. Then, once grown, the foliage is chopped up and the plants dug back into the soil, returning the nutrients as humus and preparing the soil for the growing of other crops.2 Frost hardy green manures prevent soil nutrients being lost over winter This is a good way to preserve soil nutrients over winter. Green manures can be helpful in an area of poor soil quality, or high soil erosion, where nutrients are easily washed away. They’re particularly effective at reducing the loss of nitrogen and make a great alternative, or addition to, compost and manure. Characteristics Of Green Manures There are several types of plants which can be used as green manures, and each varies in appearance and character. Having said this, there are some characteristics which are common to most green manures: They are typically small in size and have large, green foliage. Their leaves are often flat and span outwards, enabling them to cover and suppress weeds. Another characteristic common to pretty much all green manures is that they are fast-growing. Most plants can be sown, grown to maturity, and dug in within 2-3 months, making them a rapid method of adding nutrients to the soil. They usually prefer full sunlight, although most can tolerate a little shade. Examples Of Green Manure Crops There are many examples of plants which make good green manure crops. The best one for you will depend on what you want to achieve – eg. suppress weeds, cover bare soil, protect soil from erosion, add nitrogen – as well as your soil type and the time of year. For Quick Growth One popular example of a green manure is Mustard Caliente – a small, broadleaf, cruciferous oilseed plant that grows extremely quickly. As a result, it can be used to fill bare gaps in your soil after you’ve lifted crops, for short periods of only 1-2 months. It’s also particularly good at suppressing weeds. For Weed Suppression & Nitrogen Fixing Buckwheat and Alfalfa are very effective green manures that can be grown in the summer months. Buckwheat can efficiently smother weeds, and its white-pink flowers attract insects. Alfalfa, like many legumes, enables nitrogen to be fixed in its root nodules, adding this important plant nutrient back into the soil in a form which other plants can access. For Winter Conditions Good plants to sow in autumn, grow over winter, and dig in come spring, include Winter Tares (vetches) and Hungarian Grazing Rye. Both of these varieties are particularly tolerant to frost and winter conditions, and can greatly improve soil structure. “The foliage of these plants intercepts rainwater and prevents some of its damage to soil structure,” says Peter Lickorish, Master of Horticulture. “Heavy winter rainfall can also be among the greatest causes of nutrient loss, or leaching, from soils.” For Improving Soil Structure There are also some green manures that can be left to grow for 1 – 2 years if you want to better improve the structure of the soil and protect it from erosion. Clovers such as Essex Red Clover and Alsike Clover are good examples of these. These can also be trimmed regularly whilst growing, and their cut foliage used as a mulch. What Are The Best Green Manure Crops For Allotments? As above, this depends somewhat on the condition of your soil, and what you’re growing. If you’ve inherited an allotment that has been well-used and drained of nutrients by previous owners, planting Essex Red Clover in loamy soil, Alsike Clover in wet acidic soil or Trefoil in dry soil for the first season will improve the soil quality before you start growing veggies. Once you’re in full swing, mustard, Crimson clover or Phacelia are good green manure crops to sow, as you can plant them after lifting your veggies, and they’ll be ready to dig in within 2 months. This makes them a quick and effective way to add nutrients to your soil between crops, without taking the soil out of action for too long. These plants will also help to suppress weeds. Phacelia has beautiful flowers, which will add to the look of your allotment, and attract beneficial insects such as bees and hoverflies, which prey on aphids. Phacelia’s purple flowers attract bees and insects If you’re looking for another green manure plant to increase the aesthetic of your veggie patch, Bitter Blue Lupin produces pretty blue flowers, and being a legume, will also improve nitrogen availability in your soil. During winter, when you’re not growing any veggies, you can sow winter tares or grazing rye in late summer or early autumn, and dig it in in early spring, at least 2 weeks before planting your summer vegetables, to increase the nutrient level in your allotment’s soil. However, be aware that these plants are harder work to dig in by hand. How To Sow Green Manures Green manures can be sown from spring to autumn, with the best time to sow depending on the variety of plant, and your purpose for using green manure. For example, green manures being used to suppress weeds or add nitrogen to the soil are best sown in summer. Meanwhile, green manures intended to preserve nutrients over winter and improve soil quality in spring, are best sown in late summer or early autumn. This will allow the plants to extract any remaining nutrients from the soil, before winter rains and frosts set in. You can buy seed packets of green manures from garden centres, or specialist green manure online retailers. When it comes to sowing them, choose whether to plant the seeds in rows, or scatter them liberally and rake them into the soil. Water liberally, and leave them to grow. How To Dig In Green Manure Crops Depending on what type of green manure crops you’re growing, you’ll probably want to dig them in 2-3 months after sowing, or just before they reach maturity, to add nutrients back into the soil. Make sure to dig your green manure crops in before they set seed. To dig in your green manures, first chop up the foliage. For some plants, such as alfalfa, this chopped up foliage will act as an effective mulch. Once the foliage has wilted, use a spade to dig the plants into the top 20cm of soil. Green manure crops can be dug in using a sharp spade Disadvantages Of Green Manuring As useful as they can be, there are some disadvantages of green manures. One is that the damp, dark ground under green manure plants might attract pests, such as slugs and snails – although it could also be attractive to some slug predators, for example frogs. Other problems that occur can be specific to the plant variety you’ve chosen. For example, mustard, as a brassica, is prone to clubroot, a fungal infection which can distort roots and stunt growth.3 The disease is very hard to eradicate and can spread to other brassica plants – control measures include liming to increase the soil pH and increasing soil drainage.4 Another disadvantage of green manures is the extra time and effort involved in growing and digging them, in comparison to adding a layer of compost to your soil – it is somewhat arguable as to whether the results of using green manures are superior enough to justify the hard work. You also have to take into account the time taken for plants to decay after being dug in. You should not attempt to plant anything new for at least 2-3 weeks after digging in, as the decaying matter is likely to hamper growth. Green manures are not for the impatient gardener! References 1. Thorup-Kristensen, K., Magid, J., & Jensen, L. J. (2003). Catch crops and green manures as biological tools in nitrogen management in temperate zones. Advances in Agronomy, 227–302. https://doi.org/10.1016/s0065-2113(02)79005-6 2. Using Green Manures. (n.d.). RHS Campaign for School Gardening. Retrieved March 16, 2023, from https://schoolgardening.rhs.org.uk/Resources/Info-Sheet/Using-Green-Manures 3. Mustard Greens (Brassica juncea)-Clubroot. (2022, May 17). Pacific Northwest Pest Management Handbooks. Retrieved March 16, 2023, from https://pnwhandbooks.org/plantdisease/host-disease/mustard-greens-brassica-juncea-clubroot 4. Clubroot disease of canola and mustard. (n.d.). Alberta. Retrieved March 16, 2023, from https://www.alberta.ca/clubroot-disease-of-canola-and-mustard.aspx
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How To Plant And Grow Garlic - One Of The Best Plants In A Vegetable Garden
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Garlic Types How To Grow & Plant Garlic Garlic Plant Care Harvesting Common Problems References A native of the onion family, garlic is a popular plant for amateur gardeners to grow, due to the fact it doesn’t need a lot of nurturing. It’s pretty hardy against pests and it provides a great ingredient for any number of recipes. In fact, it is used for cooking pretty much the world over – and has been for centuries now – especially in the warmer Mediterranean countries, such as Southern Spain, France and Italy.1 Overview Botanical Name Allium sativum Common Name(s) Garlic Plant Type Bulb Native Area Central Asia Hardiness Rating Varies, typically H4 Foliage Aromatic, thin leaves Flowers Edible, allium flowers When To Sow January, February, March, October, November, December Flowering Months May, June, July Harvesting Months August, September, October “One of the best plants I grow in my vegetable garden is garlic,” shares Kate Cotterill, Garden Designer. “I don’t have a massive vegetable garden, but I grow enough garlic to sustain us for an entire year, which is great because I use a lot of it.” Garlic cloves are best bought from a gardening centre or nursery, rather than a supermarket, because: The supermarket variety may have been grown abroad and therefore unsuitable for a UK climate. Also, you don’t know if the soil in which it grew was infected with diseases such as onion white rot or leek rust, which affect garlic. Thirdly, the supermarket variety will likely have been subjected to chemical sprays, such as growth inhibitors. Note that garlic shouldn’t be grown in the same place a garlic crop, onions or leeks have previously been grown – at least, not for another two years. Also, the spot in which you do choose to grow it should be covered with netting to deter birds from getting at the early bulbs. Garlic Types Elephant Garlic “I grow a variety of elephant garlic that is massive and has huge cloves that we absolutely love in my family,” shares Kate. As its name implies, this type of garlic needs spacing out in the soil for its roots to flourish. Wild Garlic Bulbs shouldn’t be lifted in the first year in order to allow the plant to spread its seed heads wider and multiply the crop. “Wild garlic is a woodland plant that requires shade to grow well and it’s grown for its leaves as well as the bulb,” shares Master Horticulturist Roy Nicol. “Care should be taken with allowing the seed to spread as this plant can be invasive.” Rocamboles A form of hardneck garlic which is terrific for cooking with. Pull off the floral spikes as soon as they appear (softneck varieties of garlic don’t produce a spike and you’ll get more cloves per bulb as a result). How To Grow & Plant Garlic Choose a spot in your garden that is guaranteed to receive the most sunshine then mix the soil there with a good compost (do this several weeks before you start the actual planting to give it time to blend well). The day before you intend to plant your garlic bulbs, break them up. Next day plant them up to 4cm deep in the soil, 15cm apart, with the flat root plate facing downwards (and therefore the pointed end upwards). When To Plant The best time to plant your garlic bulbs is in the autumn (around the third week in November). You can also try growing your garlic indoors in pots around this time. That’s because the cloves will benefit from the initial cold weather; helping them split and form properly by the beginning of the year. Garlic Plant Care As the garlic grows it will need water if the soil appears too dry. Otherwise, thanks to the rainy UK climate, it should do well on its own. Do remove weeds though and, at the beginning of the year, add some nutrients in the form of sulphate of potash. Luckily, even if you don’t have a garden, it’s still possible to grow this delicious vegetable. Take 6 bulbs, for instance, and plant them in a deep, 8-inch garden pot or container. As long as the plants are regularly watered they will do just fine sitting outside on a window ledge. Harvesting It’s important to get the time of harvesting right. Having said that, it’s not too difficult to get wrong since the garlic plant itself will tell you when it’s ready to be attended to. Certainly, do it too late and you’ll be confronted with a rotten bulb when you start digging up; too early and you’ll have missed the best bit. It’s not only the bulbs you can eat from garlic plants; the leaves can also work in a salad, or use them as a garnish. Hardneck garlic indicates it is ready to be lifted when the bottom leaves become a yellow or brownish colour. This is usually from May to July. Softneck varieties of garlic should be lifted when the leaves turn yellow and begin to fall off (here you’re looking at from May to August). Once you’ve decided it is time to go ahead and dig out the bulbs, always tread carefully, and with a gardening fork. “I love growing garlic because it’s a crop that is usually ready in May or June, so I can harvest them then pop something else in its place very quickly, making the most out of the space,” shares Kate After harvesting, dry them out in an airy shed by laying them on a tray or sheet. Then store them in a dry place with a temperature of between 5-10°C. Common Problems Onion White Rot This is a fungus which, if introduced to the soil, attacks the roots and bulb beneath the ground. It is indicated on the surface by the leaves wilting and turning yellow on the surface. Later you’ll spot a white cotton wool-like fungus on the bulb’s base and the small round black dots. The only way to avoid this is to plant in soil where there is no existing onion rot. Be careful though – the disease can be carried on tools, boots and other equipment and spreads very easily. “Once the onion white rot fungus is present in the soil, crops in the allium family such as onions, leeks and garlic cannot be grown in the same soil for a period of at least seven years as there is no treatment available to domestic gardeners,” shares Roy. “This fungus can be introduced by onion sets or garlic bulbs not bought from trusted sources, so it’s, therefore, best to grow onion and leek from seed and avoid planting supermarket garlic bulbs.” Leek Rust Another fungus which, this time, shows up on the leaves in the form of bright yellow spots. It’s not as serious as onion rot and if you root out the affected plant the other bulbs should survive fine (provided you keep an eye on them). Over-crowding can make leek rust worse because as well as making the disease easier to spread, it also causes humidity – making it more likely in the first place. “Excess nitrogen fertiliser can encourage leek rust, so feeding applications should be balanced,” adds Roy. “Certain varieties may have resistance and can be chosen to avoid this disease.” References 1. Mahr, S. (n.d.-a). Garlic, Allium sativum. Wisconsin Horticulture. Retrieved March 15, 2023, from https://hort.extension.wisc.edu/articles/garlic-allium-sativum/
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Find Out Your Soil Type: This Is How To Test And Improve Your Garden Soil
IN THIS GUIDE Is Soil Just Soil? The Crucial Variable: pH Why Is Soil pH Important? Which pH Do Most Plants Grow Best At? How To Test Your Soil pH 1) Lab Testing 2) pH Strips 3) Soil Testing Meters How To Neutralise Acidic Soil Introducing Earthworms The Building Blocks Of Soil The Different Components Of Soil References For the gardener, winning the lottery is not as big a deal as having good soil favourable to growing healthy and beautiful plants. Indeed, to the gardener, having good soil is winning the lottery! Beyond just good soil is ‘Black Gold’ – that smooth, rich, warm, friable, dark soil that looks, smells, and feels like the jackpot to the ardent gardener. Is Soil Just Soil? “Soil is soil!” the casual gardener might very well say. But the dedicated gardener would reply, “There is soil…and then there is soil”. There are many different types of soil – in general, some soils are beneficial to plant health and growth and others are not. Yet it is also true that one or another specific type of soil may be poor for the large majority of plants yet ideal for a small set of species. Soil, as such, is composed of varied types of constituent particulate matter in varying proportions. The correct balance between these various constituent materials results in the best soil. “Farming and horticulture had been very chemically focused until quite recently,” shares Soil Expert Ben Raskin. “People have been advised to apply artificial fertilisers, but if you get the biology right, your plants can cope with mostly anything. “If you have healthy soil, plants can communicate with each other through fungal networks. There’s lots of stuff going on in there that we are only beginning to understand.” Colin Skelly, Master Horticulturist, adds: “The concept of soil health brought soil ecology into consideration of soil rather than just its mineral and chemical composition and structure. “Soil supports life, which then influences the nature of the soil, which then influences the balance of life in the soil – a complex network of relationships and cycles. “The evidence points to reducing chemical inputs, adding organic matter and keeping soil covered with vegetation is key to optimising soil life and nutrient cycles. The old adage of feeding your soil not your plants holds true!” As Ben and Colin suggest, this is far from all. Regardless of the kind or type of soil you have, an all-important variable makes the world of a difference in determining whether or not the soil will or will not be beneficial to your plants, and if it will be beneficial, then how much. This crucial variable is pH. The Crucial Variable: pH No matter what kind or type your soil is, it has some or another pH value. The pH value is a measure of the acidity-alkalinity of any non-inert chemical substance, including soil. The pH scale runs from 0 to 14 – a pH of 7 indicates neutral soil, below 7 is acidic, and above 7 is alkaline. Most plants thrive in soil ranging from slightly acidic to neutral. Just as among soil types, as a general rule loam is the best soil; on the pH scale, as a general rule soil with a pH of 6.5 is the ‘best’ soil. Why Is Soil pH Important? Soil pH is extremely important for the health and well-being of your plants because, simply and briefly, pH controls the availability of soil nutrients to the plant. There is a fine balance to be considered here. Strongly acidic (pH 5.1 to 5.5) soils dissolve Aluminium and make it available to plants through their roots, and Aluminium is wholly toxic to plants.1 Moderately alkaline (pH 7.9 to 8.4) soils put a crimp on the availability of key nutrients like phosphorous and potassium to plants, leading to mineral deficiencies.2 Strongly alkaline (pH 8.5 to 9.0) soils interfere with water retention and dispersion through the soil, the capacity of the soil to hold water, and also degrade soil aeration.3 The best compromise in terms of soil pH is that happy zone that ranges between slightly acidic through neutral, as defined below. In this range, where the vast majority of plants are concerned – none of the harmful effects of soil pH are active, and all of the benefits of soil pH are brought into play. In this pH range, necessary nutrients and Nitrogen are rendered chemically active in the soil and thereby made available to plants and absorbed by the roots, plant toxins are held in check, water is dispersed through the soil, moisture is retained, and aeration is improved. For these reasons it is important to keep soil pH in this ‘happy zone’. Which pH Do Most Plants Grow Best At? Most plants – indeed the vast majority of plants – grow best in ‘Slightly Acidic’ through ’Neutral’ soil. These descriptive terms are, in fact, labels codified by the USDA’s Natural Resources Conservation Service to denote narrow ranges of pH values, respectively 6.1 to 6.5 and 6.6 to 7.3.4 To answer our question, if you have to pick a single, precise, pH value as being the ‘best’ for most plants, it would be around 6.5.5 However, a few plants prefer acidic soil and a few prefer alkaline soil. Gardeners and agriculturalists have called acidic soil ‘sour soil’ and alkaline soil ‘sweet soil’ since times unknown. Two popular flowering plants, Rhododendrons and Azaleas, are well-known to prefer acidic soil. Magnolia is a flowering tree that thrives in acidic soil. Holly plants and blueberry bushes are further examples of ‘acido-philic’ plants. Among trees, Acers, Birches and Scots Pine are acid-soil-loving trees. Many Columbines (Aquilegias), Delphiniums, Day-Lilies, and Foxgloves thrive in alkaline soil. Boston Ivy and Virginia Creeper are among the vines which like basic soils. Among trees, European Beech and European Ash show a preference for alkalinity. One should bear in mind that the above-named plants and some more are in truth the exceptions that prove the rule as to optimal soil pH. All this explained, it should be noted that just as the best soil for plants is Slightly Acidic to Neutral, the best soil for agricultural crops, including most vegetables, is Slightly Alkaline to Neutral. And while Moderately Acidic soil is just fine for many plants, it is anything but for agricultural crops, which are better off in moderately alkaline soil. ‘Royal Azalea’ Rhododendrons How To Test Your Soil pH Soil can be tested by using affordable and easy-to-use DIY equipment or by engaging the services of professional labs. The DIY equipment includes outdated approximations, chemical-coloured dyes, pH strips, analogue meters, and digital meters. 1) Lab Testing You can collect a few soil samples from different spots in your garden and from different depths, put them in sterilised bags, mark or label them, and send them off to a professional soil testing lab. The marking and labelling is necessary so that when the lab results are in, you will be able to tell which result corresponds to which soil sample. In the coloured dye method, soil is mixed with water and then chemicals are added to it. The chemicals dye the soil; the resultant colour is then matched to a colour shade on a chart, and that shade’s pH value is looked up. 2) pH Strips pH strips indicate pH level by way of colour shades. These may be thought of as an advanced and specific type of litmus paper that most of us are familiar with from our schooldays. pH strips are of thicker card material than litmus paper and when they react with soil or any other chemically active material, they change colour into one of 15 different shades. They can be inserted directly into soil or into a mixture of soil and water. The shade the strip turns into is matched to the same shade on a chart, and that shade’s accompanying pH is read off the chart. 3) Soil Testing Meters Amateur-use soil-testing meters, be they analogue or digital, are becoming increasingly popular, mostly because of their convenience and affordability. They are far less expensive than professional equipment but they are also not as reliable at taking precise measurements and giving exact readings. These simple-to-use instruments include a handheld display and a probe that is to be inserted directly into the soil. The pH is shown on the display, and – Voila! The pH value indicated by a DIY soil-testing meter should be treated as a ballpark number with a plus/minus factor of 1 (which, as pH is measured and represented on the logarithmic scale, actually represents a multiple of ten; for example, a pH of 9 is ten times more alkaline than a pH of 8). How To Neutralise Acidic Soil First, if your soil is slightly acidic or even moderately acidic, be happy because most plants will be happy in such soil. It is only if your soil is strongly acidic (pH 5.1 to 5.5) or lower that you should be concerned and think about neutralising your soil’s acidity. In gardener’s lingo, reducing soil acidity is called ‘Liming’. In technical terminology, changing the soil’s pH is known as ‘Amendment’. Basically, (pulverised) agricultural lime or (pulverised) dolomite lime is added to the soil. This is a somewhat technical task that an experienced gardener can do by estimation and which a professional service does using measurements and calculations. If your local gardening centre is provided with a few necessary particulars, as outlined below, they can provide pulverised lime and instruct you on how to amend your soil. Calcium Oxide, Calcium Hydroxide, and Calcium Carbonate are all types of lime.6 First, as the starting point, the soil’s exact pH needs to be known. The amount of lime that will need to be added also depends on the lime itself, i.e. on the fineness or size of its particles. The finer and smaller the particles of the lime, the quicker and more efficiently it will reduce soil acidity and, therefore, a smaller quantity of a finely-ground lime will be needed than of a coarsely-ground lime. It is best to do liming (or any soil amendments) in late autumn. Although lime in its various forms is the most commonly used amendment for acidic soil, wood ash, calcium silicate, and some other substances can also be used to neutralise acidic soil. Finally, reducing or neutralising soil acidity is usually not a one-shot task; it is an ongoing process as soil tends to revert to its natural pH. Therefore, after amending your soil, test it every two years to see whether your neutralising or alkalinising amendment has ‘held’ or whether your soil needs a ‘booster shot.’ Introducing Earthworms Although other factors, such as sun, climate, rainfall, and moisture play a very big part in the health and growth of plants, this article pertains only to soil pH. And there is one other soil-related factor that does play a part: earthworms! Earthworms have several beneficial effects on soil, ranging from the nutrient-rich contents of their castings to improving soil porosity and enhancing soil aeration.7 While earthworms are not attracted to strongly acidic or strongly alkaline soils, preferring soils that are slightly acidic through neutral through slightly alkaline, whichever soils they inhabit also play a role in also influencing the pH of that soil.8 Earthworm castings, which are rich in soil and plant nutrients, have a neutral pH. Thus, the presence of earthworms tends to neutralise soil, be it on the acidic side or the alkaline side, nudging it closer to pH 7.0. Therefore, if a gardener wants to control moderately acidic or moderately alkaline soils, he/she would do well to check his/her soil for the presence and population density of earthworms and, as necessary, introduce earthworms into the soil. Prep the soil first and make it hospitable for earthworms by adding organic compost and/or mulch. The Building Blocks Of Soil “When I look at some of the best growers I visit, they have been nurturing their soils for over 30 years and their plants are so vibrant, even within a commercial setting,” Ben adds. “Even in our home gardens, we have such an opportunity to do that easily, as we are not under the same commercial pressures and can really look after our soils, but I think it’s not seen as easy.” Sand, silt, and clay are the building-block components of soil. These differ primarily in the size of their respective particles, with sand having the largest particles and clay the smallest. Because of the size of its particles sand cannot retain water or even moisture.9 On the other hand, clay retains the most water and moisture but if clay particles become tightly compacted, clay may become impenetrable to water.10 Silt, a sediment, falls in between sand and clay in its size and moisture retention properties. Often overlooked as a component of soil, gravel has particularly large particles ranging in size between those of sand and pebbles. Indeed, gravel is sometimes modified as ‘sandy gravel’ or ‘pebbly gravel’. Silt and gravel are both found in river channels, riverbeds, floodplains, and harbours.11 An important property separates clay from the other types of particulate matter. This property is that almost all clays have (negative) electrical charge whereas the other particulate matters carry no charge.12 In turn, this means that clay and soils with clay attract and ‘hold on’ to positively-charged cations such as magnesium, potassium, and calcium, whereas sand and silt cannot do so.13 This property of clay and clay soils is called Cation Exchange Capacity (CEC) and it is crucial for plant growth and health.14 The Different Components Of Soil To the above building blocks of soil, we should add chalk. This soft, fine, white material is also of sedimentary origin and it is very common in Southern England’s downs country.15 Another component of soil is manure which is essentially decomposed faecal matter. In fact, manure is a saleable by-product of animal farming. The make-up of different types of soil Humus and peat are both naturally-occurring organic materials. Humus is found in wooded and forested areas and it is formed primarily by the organic decomposition of leaves and other plant materials, but also from animal remains.16 Peat, less crumbly and thicker than humus, is also formed primarily by the organic decomposition of leaves and other plant materials, with some decomposed animal remains, except that it is formed and found in bogs, fens and swamps.17 Because manure, humus, and peat are derived from organic materials, they too carry some or another negative electrical charge and, therefore, have a CEC because of which these soils attract and retain positively-charged cations.18 Loam is the ‘ideal’ composite soil comprising equal parts sand, silt, and clay, with some humus.19 Depending on its balance, loam is sometimes predicated with qualifiers, e.g. ‘sandy loam’ or ‘clay loam’. Loam is the most fertile kind of soil. References 1. Bojórquez-Quintal, E., Escalante-Magaña, C., Echevarría-Machado, I., & Martínez-Estévez, M. (2017). Aluminum, a Friend or Foe of Higher Plants in Acid Soils. Frontiers in Plant Science, 8. https://doi.org/10.3389/fpls.2017.01767 2. Soil pH and the Availability of Plant Nutrients. (n.d.). Nutrient Stewardship. Retrieved March 27, 2023, from https://nutrientstewardship.org/implementation/soil-ph-and-the-availability-of-plant-nutrients/ 3. Soil pH and Nutrient Availability. (n.d.). Laqua Horiba. Retrieved March 27, 2023, from https://www.horiba.com/int/water-quality/applications/agriculture-crop-science/soil-ph-and-nutrient-availability/ 4. European Commission Directorate General for Health and Consumers. (2010, May 31). Evaluation of the Community Plant Health Regime. Retrieved March 27, 2023, from https://food.ec.europa.eu/system/files/2016-10/ph_biosec_rules_annexes_eval_en.pdf 5. Kluepfel, M., & Lippert, B. (1999, June). Changing the pH of Your Soil. Home & Garden Information Center | Clemson University, South Carolina. Retrieved March 27, 2023, from https://hgic.clemson.edu/factsheet/changing-the-ph-of-your-soil/ 6. Lime types and their meanings explained in our Glossary! (2020, May 22). Lancaster Lime Works. Retrieved March 27, 2023, from https://lancasterlimeworks.com/learning-center/types-of-lime/ 7. Earthworms and soil health. (2019, June). Farming Connect. Retrieved March 27, 2023, from https://businesswales.gov.wales/farmingconnect/sites/farmingconnect/files/documents/cff_earthworms_and_soil_health_eng.pdf 8. How earthworms can help your soil. (n.d.). Department of Primary Industries. Retrieved March 27, 2023, from https://www.dpi.nsw.gov.au/agriculture/soils/guides/soil-biology/earthworms 9. Ball, J. (n.d.). Soil and Water Relationships. Noble Research Institute. Retrieved March 27, 2023, from https://www.noble.org/regenerative-agriculture/soil/soil-and-water-relationships/ 10. Clay soils. (n.d.). Royal Horticultural Society. Retrieved March 27, 2023, from https://www.rhs.org.uk/soil-composts-mulches/clay-soils 11. Rivers & Deltas. (n.d.). Geological Society. Retrieved March 27, 2023, from https://www.geolsoc.org.uk/ks3/gsl/education/resources/rockcycle/page3604.html 12. Cation Exchange Capacity (CEC). (2010). Agronomy Fact Sheet Series: Cornell University. Retrieved March 27, 2023, from http://nmsp.cals.cornell.edu/publications/factsheets/factsheet22.pdf 13. Brown, K., & Lemon, J. (n.d.). Cations and Cation Exchange Capacity. Soilquality.org. Retrieved March 27, 2023, from https://soilquality.org.au/factsheets/cation-exchange-capacity 14. Mengel, D. (2014). Fundamentals of Soil Cation Exchange Capacity (CEC). Agronomy Guide. Retrieved March 27, 2023, from https://www.extension.purdue.edu/extmedia/ay/ay-238.html 15. Chalk. (n.d.). South Downs National Park. Retrieved March 27, 2023, from https://learning.southdowns.gov.uk/geology-landscapes/chalk/ 16. Humus. (n.d.). National Geographic. Retrieved March 27, 2023, from https://education.nationalgeographic.org/resource/humus/ 17. What is peat? (2019, July 2). International Peatland Society. Retrieved March 27, 2023, from https://peatlands.org/peat/peat/ 18. Soil Chemistry. (n.d.). Retrieved March 27, 2023, from https://web.njit.edu/~kebbekus/Soil%20chem%20notes.htm 19. Maurya, N. (n.d.). Different Types of Soil – Sand, Silt, Clay and Loam. Madhav University. Retrieved March 27, 2023, from https://madhavuniversity.edu.in/soil-types.html
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Use These Tips From Gardeners For Tomato Growing - And Their Common Mistakes To Avoid
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Growing Tips & Care Common Mistakes Common Problems References Tomatoes are an incredibly versatile food and are used in a variety of salads and cooked dishes as well as for making sauces and drinks. If you’ve ever considered growing your own tomatoes, it isn’t as challenging as you might think. “A firm favourite to grow for my whole family are, of course, tomatoes,” shares Joe Harrison, a Gardening Blogger. “We’ve been growing tomatoes for a number of years now and they are always fun, not to mention delicious. “They can take a lot of patience and need a little extra pampering to keep the plants happy, but once you get the hang of this you will be rewarded with countless fruits right up until October if you’re really lucky.” Tomatoes are such a common type of food that it’s easy to take them for granted but there are countless favourites that wouldn’t be the same without them – from pasta and pizzas to soups and sandwiches. Although buying tomatoes at the supermarket is very convenient and gives you a lot of choice, there is a great sense of reward that comes with growing your own tomatoes. “I also love growing tomatoes and despite living in Newcastle, I can actually get them growing outdoors as well,” shares Gardener Hannah Reid. Overview Botanical Name Solanum lycopersicum Common Name(s) Tomato Plant Type Fruit Native Area N/A (Cultivated) Hardiness Rating H1C Foliage Vine foliage with slight differences depending on cultivar Flowers Yellow When To Sow January, February, March, April, May (Plant out in June) Fruits June, July, August, September, October When To Prune July, August, September Tomatoes are the product of the tomato plant, or Solanum lycopersicum when referred to it by its botanical name.1 The word ‘tomato’ is said to come from the Spanish word ‘tomate’ and the plant originates from South and Central America.2 Thanks to modern tools and technology, today there are a huge variety of tomatoes grown in all parts of the world. Although tomato is technically a fruit, in practical terms they’re much closer to a vegetable, considering how they’re used in cooking. “My favourite edible plant to grow would be tomatoes, but I think everyone knows that already!” shares Garden Designer Lucy Hutchings. “Most people don’t realise that the tomato was first imported into this country as an ornamental plant and no one ate it for many decades because it was part of the nightshade family, so people thought that the fruit was poisonous. “It was just grown as an ornamental because it was a beautiful plant and we’ve all forgotten that and now we just grow it to eat it.” Below are some of the most popular varieties of tomato: Cherry Tomatoes Cherry tomatoes come in a range of colours and as the name would suggest, they’re on the smaller size, typically measuring just 25-35mm in diameter. Although they’re small compared to more other varieties of tomato, they’re still very popular due to being relatively easy to grow and their sweet taste and soft texture. Round Tomatoes Round tomatoes, also referred to as ‘classic tomatoes’ are usually the variety most people think of first. They have a very appealing flavour and are extremely common in salads as well as being used for frying and cooking with. Green Tomatoes The term ‘green tomato’ can be used to describe red tomatoes that are not yet ripened or specific species of tomatoes that happen to be green in colour, such as the ‘Cherokee’ green tomato. Unripened tomatoes are often picked early so they can be used for things like breading and pickling. Yellow Tomatoes There are quite a few tomato plants that produce yellow fruit and yellow tomatoes generally have different nutritional properties compared to red tomatoes. Campari Tomatoes Often referred to as vine tomatoes, Campari tomatoes are a hybrid and have a very sweet taste as well as a juicy texture, making them perfect for cooking with. Growing Tips & Care Below are all the steps you need to take to ensure that your tomato plants thrive and produce the best fruit. Sowing Growing tomato plants in the right conditions is vital – for the first eight to ten weeks, the seeds will need to be sown indoors. Read our guide to growing from seed to learn how to germinate your seeds correctly and at the right time. Seedling Care In the first few weeks after sowing the seeds, you should take great care to provide the best conditions possible. You should ensure that the soil or compost you use is moist but not overly saturated. You should also place the tray with your seeds in a spot that’s warm but out of direct sunlight. After anywhere from a few days to four weeks, you should notice seedlings begin to appear. After this happens, you can move them into more direct sunlight, such as a windowsill, while still making sure to keep the soil moist. At around 50-60 days, you’ll be able to move your plants into individual plant pots. You should keep an eye on their growth and use larger pots as you need to, always being careful to ensure you don’t damage the roots and use high-quality compost. “You can pot on tomato seedlings any time after they have grown their first true leaves,” says Master Horticulturist Dan Ori. “True leaves are the second set of leaves to grow and are normally toothed as opposed to the first set (the seed leaves) that are not. “You also want to have a good amount of root on your seedling before potting on. I wait to see the fine white roots just poking through the bottom of the seed tray and this is also why I like to use a standard depth seed tray with 3-5cm of sieved, peat-free, multipurpose compost when sowing. “Tomato seeds germinate easily and are not inhibited by high amounts of nitrogen, which is why you can use multipurpose instead of the seed composts that have lower nitrogen levels.” Transplanting Outdoors After your plants have had time to become established indoors, you can then move them outside. You should choose a spot that gets a decent amount of sunlight but still has adequate shade. Once the fruit of your plants has ripened enough, you can harvest them. The best time to harvest would be between May and October – but of course, this can vary somewhat depending on when you first planted them. Ongoing Plant Care One of the most important aspects of growing tomatoes that are ripe and healthy is ensuring that the plants get the right amount of water and nutrients. Irregular watering is one of the most common mistakes that those who are new to growing tomatoes make – the right way to water tomatoes is lightly but often. Make sure you provide a decent amount of water but don’t allow the soil to become overly saturated. You should also avoid getting water on the leaves since this can lead to problems like leaf mould. As far as feeding the plants, you should use a complete fertiliser and feed them once every couple of weeks after the plants have begun to produce fruit. Do You Need A Greenhouse? Whether or not you need a greenhouse to grow tomatoes will depend on the type of tomatoes you want to grow. For example, vine tomatoes are certainly better grown in a greenhouse or polytunnel, while bush tomatoes can thrive outdoors. An obvious big advantage of having a greenhouse for growing tomatoes and other fruits/vegetables is that you’re able to protect them from the harsh elements. If you don’t have space, or cannot afford to invest in a traditional greenhouse, then building a polytunnel is a great compromise. It will enable you to control the growing conditions of any plants, including tomato plants, while requiring a fraction of the time and expense of a traditional greenhouse. Common Mistakes Although growing tomatoes can be a greatly rewarding thing to do, it can also be frustrating when your plants don’t produce healthy fruit that’s suitable for use. Below are some of the most common mistakes to avoid. 1) Improper Watering Improper watering is certainly a very common mistake that new growers of tomatoes make. Failing to water your plants regularly can cause issues such as Blossom End Rot – causing your tomatoes to split and go bad. For tomato plants to flourish, you need to water them in the right way – this means keeping the moisture levels of the soil as consistent as possible. The best way to accomplish this is by having a regular watering schedule (mid-morning or early evening are both good times) and avoiding overwatering the plants. 2) Choosing The Wrong Variety When deciding on what type of tomatoes you want to grow, you need to first think about the conditions you can provide them with. You might have a specific type of tomato in mind that you want to grow, but if you cannot grow it in ideal conditions for whatever reason, then it’s better to choose another type. 3) Not Using Mulch Using mulch is a great way to ensure that soil that your tomato plants are in is kept cool and doesn’t dry out. Layering mulch around the edges of the stem of your plants will keep the soil moist and cool while still allowing the roots to absorb moisture when you water them. 4) Not Pruning If you’re growing indeterminate tomatoes, then pruning is always recommended. Pruning will help to improve airflow as well as improving the yield of the plants and promoting quicker ripening of the fruit. 5) Not Providing Enough Space Not providing enough space is another common mistake new growers of tomato plants often make and can cause issues due to reduced airflow and one plant shading another, which can restrict the production of fruit. The amount of space you need to provide tomato plants will depend on their variety and the size of the beds where you’re growing them. Indeterminate tomato plants will naturally need more space between them since they grow larger than determinate varieties. A good rough guide is to leave 25-35 inches between indeterminate plants and 20-25 inches between determinate plants. Common Problems Unfortunately, tomatoes can be susceptible to developing certain problems. The issues below are some of the most common: Leaf Mould Leaf mould is a common problem for tomato plants, particularly those that are grown in greenhouses. Leaf mould generally develops in the summer months and is often caused by overwatering. There are a few ways to prevent leaf mould from occurring in the first place. These include – Don’t overwater and avoid getting water on the leaves Make sure there is good ventilation when growing in a greenhouse Remove any leaves that look like they’re infected and dispose of plants that look like they’re beyond saving Try growing plant varieties that are resistant to leaf mould Fungicides aren’t usually effective on leaf mould, so prevention is the way to go. Blossom End Rot Blossom end rot is another common issue for tomato plants that affect the bottom as well as the insides of the fruit. Blossom end rot is particularly troublesome as it’s only when the tomatoes ripen that the problem becomes apparent, with the bottom of the fruit being black and the insides rotten. The cause of blossom end rot is the plants not getting enough calcium. This is usually due to there being too little calcium in the soil or the pH of the soil being wrong. Tomato plants require slightly acidic soil to grow best, with a pH of around 6.5 so they’re able to properly absorb calcium. To prevent blossom end rot, you should make sure you plant the seeds in the right soil to begin with – and regularly test the pH of the soil to make sure it doesn’t lose its acidity over time. “You can normally avoid blossom end rot if you plant in fresh compost each year, water regularly in a consistent way and feed during flower and fruit formation,” says Dan. Leaf Roll Leaf roll isn’t as serious as some of the other problems we’ve looked at since tomato plants that display it, will usually still bear healthy fruit. That being said – it’s still a good idea to keep on top of it since it can be a sign of bigger problems. As the name suggests, tomato plants with leaf roll will have their leaves curl up. The best way to prevent leaf roll is to avoid over-pruning and make sure the soil isn’t overly saturated. Bacterial Canker Bacterial canker is a problem that causes yellow spots to form on ripening tomatoes. Although bacterial canker appears naturally, it’s often spread by infected garden tools or other plants. Once the bacteria’s in the soil, it’s very easy for plants to get infected when rainwater splashes it up onto the plant’s leaves. Plants that have holes in their leaves are particularly vulnerable to it. If you notice your tomatoes have bacterial canker, then you should immediately dispose of them as well as the soil they’re planted in when possible. References 1. Tomato – Solanum lycopersicum. (n.d.). Kew Royal Botanic Gardens. Retrieved March 27, 2023, from https://www.kew.org/plants/tomato 2. Where do tomatoes come from? (2019, October 1). SeedChange. Retrieved March 27, 2023, from https://weseedchange.org/where-do-tomatoes-come-from/
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TV Garden Designers Suggest These Ingenious Vertical Ideas For Small Gardens
IN THIS GUIDE 1) Reuse Plastic Bottles 2) Recycle Wooden Pallets 3) Give It Some Welly! 4) Go Freestanding 5) Indulge In Your Creative Side 6) Tie To A Trellis 7) Scale A Ladder 8) Grow Your Own Veggies 9) Hang A Flower Garden 10) Repurpose A Chest Of Drawers 11) Mount Wall Planters 12) Use Modern Mesh 13) Employ Hydroponics 14) Style A Garden #Shelfie 15) Fix A Fabric Pocket 16) Green Up Gutters 17) Make A Green Wall Using Trailing Plants 18) Create An On-Trend Eclectic Look References A vertical garden refers to a popular garden configuration which makes best use of the available space, by positioning plants, hanging pots and containers vertically, along a wall or free-standing structure. This type of garden is a great alternative to a traditional horizontal garden for those lacking in space and can be the perfect solution for patios, balconies and urban terraces. “If you’ve got a smaller space, use the vertical – always go up,” says Garden Designer & TV Personality Ann-Marie Powell. “If a garden is small, people tend to use things that are low on the ground, but you don’t need to. “Make the eye go up into a garden space and it will feel much bigger because you’re using the volume of the garden.” It also makes a fabulous way to cover an unsightly wall or fence and bring more greenery into any garden. A study by researchers at Cairo University even found that growing vertical gardens in homes helped to have a restorative effect on gardeners, improving their overall quality of life.1 You can grow many of the same vegetables, herbs, flowers and ornamental plants in a vertical garden that you can in a regular garden – just make sure your chosen plants are small enough not to outgrow the space and are suited to container growth. If a vertical garden sounds like the perfect solution for you, take a look at this collection of 18 of the most ingenious vertical garden ideas, to inspire you to fill your small garden space with plants, from the ground up. 1) Reuse Plastic Bottles Plants in plastic bottles This eco-friendly vertical garden idea is a great way to re-cycle plastic bottles (just don’t buy them especially for this purpose!) To plant in a plastic bottle, you’ll need to cut a section out of the side, where the plants will go. Make two holes either side of this cut-out section, and pass lengths of garden twine through, tying large knots at the ends inside the bottle to stop them. Make several small holes in the other side of the bottle for drainage. With the bottle on its side, line the base with gravel, and then fill with your chosen soil or compost. Sow your seeds or re-pot seedlings into the soil. Hang your bottles by the strings from any secure points – for example, from fence posts or nails in a wall. You can also create a set up like the one shown, with multiple bottles tied periodically along the same lengths of twine. 2) Recycle Wooden Pallets Two wooden pallets modified to grow vegetables Wooden pallets, such as those used for deliveries, are one of the easiest and most effective bases for a vertical garden. You can often source them for free, or very cheap, from local shops or businesses. Alternatively, find some for sale locally on eBay or Gumtree. Leaned up against a wall or fence, pallets can be an excellent option for renters, and others who don’t want to start drilling holes into their exterior walls (although you may prefer to fix your pallet to something to secure it). Fill your pallet with potted plants, or suspend hanger planters from the planks. Leave the wood untreated for a natural look, use a dark stain for a more rustic feel, or cover with exterior paint to add colour to your garden. 3) Give It Some Welly! Plants grown in recycled wellies Old welly boots nailed to a shed door or fence can make for a fun and unique vertical garden idea. Children’s wellies in particular often come in funky colours and patterns – and are the perfect size to replace small pots. If you don’t happen to have any kids’ wellies lying around, have a look on eBay or in second-hand shops. Make sure to make some drainage holes in the bottom of the wellies, to stop your soil getting waterlogged. 4) Go Freestanding Vegetables grown vertically You don’t need to have a free wall or fence in order to create a vertical garden. If you’ve got the space, a freestanding structure such as a step ladder or plant stand can work just as well. This structure is made from bamboo, with large holes removed from one side, to create space for the plants. Bamboo is a great alternative to plastic piping, as it’s natural and biodegradable, and will blend into your garden. 5) Indulge In Your Creative Side Flowers and plants hung in plastic pots This quirky design provides inspiration on how to make a vertical garden into a feature wall. Geometric wooden plant boxes have been nailed to a dark grey wall, which itself is decorated with pictures of colourful flowers. To recreate the look, choose an ideally south-facing wall in your garden, and use exterior paint to first cover it with the background colour. Then, paint your chosen designs on top in white and bright colours – you could draw flowers, insects, or even your favourite inspirational quote! Make your plant shelves by screwing together pieces of wood from pallets, or 2×4 timber – no need to measure, as they don’t need to be symmetrical! Attach them to the wall, and fill with brightly coloured flowers. 6) Tie To A Trellis Metal plant plots tied to a trellis If you don’t have a wall or fence on which to mount your vertical garden, a trellis is a great alternative. Even if you do have a wall, you may prefer to use a trellis, to keep moisture away from it, and prevent mould. Trellises have crisscrossed shapes which are perfect for supporting climbing plants, pots or hanging baskets. To recreate this look, search out colourful plant buckets with handles from your local DIY or garden centre. These pots are perfect for growing single flowering plants. They can easily be hooked onto the trellis and moved around to follow the sun and create your ideal look. 7) Scale A Ladder A ladder used as shelving for plant pots Got an old ladder you never use lying around in the shed? Give it a new lease of life by transforming it into a funky plant stand! Lean your ladder up against a wall or fence, and place potted plants on – or hanging from – each rung. “If you have a small courtyard then create a level change, even if it is just that one single step up,” shares garden Designer Manoj Maldé. “This will create a journey and give the feeling of your garden being bigger.” If the rungs of a normal ladder aren’t deep enough for your pots, use a double-sided step ladder, and place planks of wood through the middle, creating shelves between the opposite rungs. For the even more design-savvy gardener, try using an exterior paint to brighten up your ladder. Turquoise or mustard will make a style statement, whilst white or grey provides a neutral base on which to make your plants stand out. 8) Grow Your Own Veggies Vegetables grown vertically using wooden boxes These natural wooden boxes blend in perfectly with the fence behind and are a stylish way to start your own veggie garden. Use pallets or old planks of wood to make your own, or purchase pre-made timber veg planters from a garden centre. Suspend the boxes from your fence with rope to complete the rustic look. This solution is perfect for those who want something that blends in with the environment, and won’t compromise the natural appearance of their garden. 9) Hang A Flower Garden Hanging plant pots This has to be one of the prettiest vertical gardens we’ve seen, with multiple rows of hanging baskets and pots, filled with colourful flowers. Recreate it by hanging pots from wall brackets or rails, and use wire or garden twine to position them at different heights. Many types of flowers work well in hanging baskets, including fuchsias, petunias and geraniums. Choose ones with coordinating colours for a well-styled look, or grow a variety of colours for a rainbow effect. 10) Repurpose A Chest Of Drawers Plants grown in an old chest of drawers An old chest of drawers can make a fabulous garden plant stand. If you haven’t got one you’re getting rid of, have a look on Gumtree or Facebook Marketplace for people selling one in your local area. You’ll probably need to treat the wood with exterior paint or stain first, to protect it from the elements. Once it’s in position, open the drawers to varying depths, and fill them with soil, or potted plants. Use ferns to copy this natural look. 11) Mount Wall Planters Pallets used as wall planters Much like pallets, planting crates offer plenty of space to hold a variety of plants, whilst also adding a rustic feel to your garden. They can be fixed to your wall using metal brackets and screws. The colour scheme shown here of green, white and purple, along with the combination of flowers and ferns, creates a dreamy look that’s perfect for adding a whimsical touch to your garden. 12) Use Modern Mesh Modern mesh with attached metal plant pots If wooden pallets and the rustic look isn’t really your thing, try mounting a wire mesh or grid to create a more modern, minimalist look. Tie climbing plants directly to the mesh, or affix pots using Velcro or clips. In place of plant pots, painted metal tins like those shown will add a cool industrial edge. Stick to monochrome shades with a splash of colour, for a really contemporary vertical garden. 13) Employ Hydroponics Vertical hydroponics on bamboo fencing Hydroponics is a method of growing plants in water, without soil. This eliminates the mess and weeds that accompany soil growth and allows you to use water more efficiently. It can even lead to bigger, healthier plants – a nutrient solution is added to the water to ensure your plants are getting everything they need. To set up a simple hydroponic vertical garden, make holes along some PVC pipe, to place your plants in. Connect and mount the pipes along your wall or fence, in a similar configuration as shown. Then, place a submersible pump in a bucket of water with your nutrient solution, and connect it to the end of the highest pipe with a tube. The pump will send water to the start of the vertical garden, and gravity will ensure it travels through the system, watering the plants as it goes. Set up another tube at the end of the lowest pipe to channel any water not absorbed by the plants back into the bucket. 14) Style A Garden #Shelfie Garden shelving with metal frame and wooden planters Move an old shelving unit or bookcase outside and fill its shelves with potted plants and containers. A metal one like this is perfect, as you can also hang baskets from the rails. Use a protective stain on wood units, or a corrosion-resistant finisher on metal shelves, to protect indoor furniture from moisture and adverse weather conditions. 15) Fix A Fabric Pocket Fabric pockets fixed vertically Fabric pockets, such as those sold for clothing or shoe storage in homeware stores, can make an easy and inexpensive base for covering a vertical space with plants. You can also buy specialised plant pouches. Secure them on your surface using screws, then line the pouches with gravel and add your chosen compost and plants. Position plants with similar-coloured foliage alongside each other to create a cohesive look. 16) Green Up Gutters Old red gutters arranged at slight angles Another alternative to conventional plant pots is using old gutters (not the ones still attached to your house!) Gutters can be fixed to a wall using guttering brackets, or placed on a freestanding unit, as long as they have solid supports. Position them at a slight angle to increase irrigation through the garden, and make sure to punch drainage holes in the bottom of the gutters, so the lower rows receive plenty of water. Attach end stops to the ends of the guttering. Gutters can be used to hold potted plants, or rows of veggies, such as lettuces. White gutters will reflect heat, and help prevent your crops overheating in the sun – but if you don’t fancy more white gutters on your walls, you could also paint them using exterior paint. 17) Make A Green Wall Using Trailing Plants A green wall using trailing plants If you want more plant coverage than that afforded by sporadic pots of herbs, to cover an unsightly wall perhaps, then trailing plants make an excellent choice. Plant trailing vines or evergreen perennials in containers fixed to the wall, or a trellis placed in front of it, and watch as their cascading foliage turns the wall lush and green. 18) Create An On-Trend Eclectic Look Plants arranged stylishly in a trendy garden Finally, you can combine multiple looks in your vertical garden to create a designer feel in your outside space. This vertical garden employs a variety of pot styles and materials to create an on-trend, eclectic look. Hanging planters are hugely popular right now, and the use of metal containers gives it an industrial edge. The key to re-creating this look is a mix of materials, shapes and structures. Incorporate multiple contrasting display methods, such as a wooden plant ladder, metal buckets, macramé plant hangers, glass terrariums and terracotta pots. If you can, position your plant holders in-front of a fence, brick wall or window, to add a further industrial element. Grasses, herbs and succulents work best in this kind of vertical garden, as flowers will soften the aesthetic. References 1. Lotfi, Y. A., Refaat, M., Attar, M., & Salam, A. A. (2020). Vertical gardens as a restorative tool in urban spaces of New Cairo. Ain Shams Engineering Journal, 11(3), 839–848. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.asej.2019.12.004
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Colourful Combinations With Lavatera ‘Tree Mallows’: How To Care For Your Plant
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Colourful Combinations Plant Care & Growing Tips Habitat & Growing Conditions Lavatera Types Buying Lavatera References Described as adding a romantic touch to your garden due to all those lovely pink, purple and white coloured blooms – Lavatera is a tall flower which is pretty easy for even the most basic gardeners to grow. It is regularly likened to Hollyhocks – although there aren’t as many colours as such since Lavatera itself is mostly white, with shades of pink, purple and red. There is no denying Lavatera looks great for the border of a garden. But it’s also eye-catching in a large planter, thanks to its generous blooms (4-12cm in diameter) and the way they grow in clusters. Overview Botanical Name Lavatera / Malva Common Name(s) Tree Mallow Plant Type Perennial Native Area Macaronesia, North Africa, Europe, Central and South-Western Asia, Ethiopia, North America and Australia Hardiness Rating H5 (mostly) Foliage Long-stalked evergreen with grey-green leaves and stems Flowers Large funnel-shaped blooms When To Sow March, April, May Flowering Months June, July, August, September You will find the Annual version of Lavatera begins flowering around the middle of June and lasts all the way through until those white and frosty crisper days of autumn. The genus of the flower is from the Malvaceae family, which is native to the likes of North Africa, Europe, Asia, the west side of North America and Australia – so it’s pretty prevalent around the world!1 Beautiful Lavatera with the distinctive funnel shape it is so well known for A commonly-used name for Lavatera amongst the gardening community is Tree Mallow. But you’ll also find it referred to as Annual Mallow, Rose Mallow or Royal Mallow. Colourful Combinations It may not be as colourful as Hollyhocks in terms of variety, but the shades Lavatera does offer are stunning. Many of the flowers also have their beautiful trademark striations of deeper tones. The dark eyes in the centre of the flower can also prove extremely eye-catching. In fact, one thing is absolutely guaranteed – regardless of where in your garden you plant, it will always be one of the first flowers to meet your eye. Plant Care & Growing Tips Easy to grow from seed and to care for as time goes on, Lavatera is pretty robust when it comes to coping with strong winds and poor soil. Although it doesn’t usually produce its beautiful and abundant five-petalled flowers until its second year, when it does, it certainly makes up for the lack of blooms in Year One. Butterflies and bees love this plant – which is a big plus since these benefit the flowers. Lavatera also self-seeds so pretty much ensures its place in your garden year-after-year (even if the shrub itself tends to die out after around five years). The perennial version requires quite a bit of space in the garden to allow it to spread easily without hitting any obstacles. Height-wise you’re looking at from three to six feet. Insects aren’t a particular problem for most types of Lavatera – but frosts can be, unless they are pruned in spring to get rid of any damaged parts of the plant. Habitat & Growing Conditions The type of soil Lavatera likes best is that which is well-drained or even soil which is generally considered too poor for many flowers to grow in. It doesn’t need a lot of watering – only really if there hasn’t been rain for some time – you’ll be able to tell if it needs watering since the petals will start to fall off. This plant doesn’t need fertiliser either, unless it’s during the summer and even then, only monthly in order to prevent it growing too many leaves. Lavatera are particularly popular with gardeners who lie near the coast – that’s because salt simply isn’t a problem for this plant. If it’s very cold though it’s a good idea to grow them beside a wall for added shelter. In terms of light, Lavatera will flourish in the sun, but it’s fine in partial shade too. However, being such a fast grower, the plant can flop if there is far too much shade. Pruning regularly means the branches will grow strong and keep them from spreading too much. Lavatera Types Lavatera has technically been subsumed into the genus Malva but is still widely known by its old names.2 It can be broken down into annual and perennial varieties. Annual Lavateras One of the most popular of the annual variety of Lavateras is L. trimestris. The rather funnel-shaped flowers from this plant range from white (‘Mont Blanc’) to light pink (‘Pink Beauty’), dark pink (‘Silver Cup’) and cherry pink (‘Ruby Regis’). Some of the blooms also feature eye-catching darker veining, much of which is contrasting and grows to a deeper shade near the centre of the flower. The blooms resemble those found on Hollyhocks (which is why it is always being mixed up with these by amateur gardeners) and can be up to three inches wide. The actual plant tends to grow up to two feet tall. Perennial Lavateras The Perennial form of the Lavateras plant is the one you will find most often referred to as Tree Mallows. These are shrub-like and fast-growing and are the forms of the plant that look great as borders. They tend to be particularly colourful and prevalent in their second year of growth. Some of the most popular forms of Lavateras that you are likely to encounter in gardens around the UK and Europe include: L. thuringiaca L. thuringiaca is the perennial form of the plant you are most likely to encounter, such is its popularity. The blooms are a range of different pink shades and the shrubby plant will grow up to 1.8m before disappearing every winter.3 Lavatera x clementii ‘Barnsley’ L. x clementii ‘Barnsley’ can often be found in many large gardens. Growing to 2m tall and producing hollyhock-like flowers from June until September, the blooms are white and red in the centre, eventually fading to pale pink as the summer progresses. It is a fast-growing plant. Lavatera ‘Barnsley Baby’ L. ‘Barnsley Baby’ tends to be a smaller (in every sense) version of the above ‘Barnsley’. It looks similar, but only grows to a total height of 1m or so.4 This makes it an excellent flower to grow if your garden is rather space-compromised. L. maritima L. maritima can grow as high as 8 feet tall and can spread by as much as 12 feet. Its blooms are white and pink while the stem looks like a grey to green shade. An extremely hardy plant, it is ideal for gardens near the sea; where growing other more genteel types of flowers may be somewhat of a challenge. “This is a great plant for coastal gardens where a taste for cottage garden-style plants can be fulfilled by L. maritima,” shares Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly. “It is robust enough to be grown outside of a shelter belt and can even be grown as a low hedge.” Buying Lavatera You can, of course, buy Lavatera from any reputable garden seller in the UK. But, much more satisfying, is for you to grow the plant from a cutting from a friend. References 1. Family: Malvaceae. (n.d.). Native Plant Trust: Go Botany. Retrieved March 21, 2023, from https://gobotany.nativeplanttrust.org/family/malvaceae/ 2. Malva Tourn. (n.d.). Plants of the World Online. Retrieved July 3, 2023, from https://powo.science.kew.org/taxon/urn:lsid:ipni.org:names:60436984-2#children 3. Lavatera thuringiaca. (n.d.-b). Plants for a Future. Retrieved March 21, 2023, from https://pfaf.org/User/Plant.aspx?LatinName=Lavatera+thuringiaca 4. Lavatera × clementii “Barnsley Baby.” (n.d.). Royal Horticultural Society. Retrieved March 21, 2023, from https://www.rhs.org.uk/plants/201424/lavatera-x-clementii-barnsley-baby/details
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