Growing
Head Gardeners Recommend These Climbing Roses For Shady Garden Areas
IN THIS GUIDE 1) ‘The Generous Gardener’ 2) ‘Mortimer Sackler’ 3) ‘New Dawn’ 4) ‘Emily Gray’ 5) ‘Rambling Rector’ 6) ‘Teasing Georgia’ 7) ‘Zephirine Drouhin’ 8) ‘Claire Austin’ 9) ‘Alberic Barbier’ 10) ‘James Galway’ 11) ‘Phyllis Bide’ 12) ‘Kew Rambler’ 13) ‘Paul Noel’ 14) ‘The Pilgrim’ 15) ‘Veilchenblau’ Growing Tips For Climbing Roses Planting Maintenance Climbing roses come in a wide variety of colours and can help to create a fantastic look wherever they’re used. “If I had to choose one plant that I couldn’t live without, it would be the rose,” shares Horticulturist Sam Hickmott. “With an enormous selection of species and cultivars to choose from to suit a range of sites and situations, roses provide a combination of colour and scent that is rarely matched by other planting. “They can also provide useful structure within borders, particularly the larger shrub roses, as well as food for birds and pollinators.” Climbing roses are extremely popular in the UK and can be seen adorning the walls of countless homes across the country. Although they’re very often used on walls, you can also have them in your garden, on pillars, fences, gates, patios and elsewhere. “All gardens should contain roses,” says Elliott Beveridge, an expert Gardener. “Their versatility is amazing, from large single flowering ramblers to repeat flowering shrub roses. I always incorporate them in any garden that I work in.” Without further ado, let’s look at some of the best climbing roses for shaded areas – 1) ‘The Generous Gardener’ One of the more popular varieties of climbing rose, ‘The Generous Gardener’ has beautiful pink petals that open to reveal an array of stamens. This rose doesn’t just look great though, it’s very practical too thanks to being resistant to disease and its ability to do well in shade. 2) ‘Mortimer Sackler’ This is another great climbing rose to use in shaded areas. It’s not dissimilar in appearance to ‘The Generous Gardener’ due to its pink petals, but it still has a distinct appearance of its own and looks great when used alone or with other roses. 3) ‘New Dawn’ ‘New Dawn’ is a favourite with many gardeners and for good reason. Not only does it look great, with its distinctive pearl pink petals, but it also has a very pleasing scent. It’s also resistant to disease and can cope well in shade and in poorer soils. 4) ‘Emily Gray’ Another rose that does well in shaded areas is ‘Emily Gray’. It’s an incredibly beautiful looking rose, with golden petals and yellow stamens. It’s very healthy, especially when compared to other yellow ramblers and can tolerate shade very well. It’s worth noting that ‘Emily Gray’ only flowers in the summer but when in full bloom, it’s one of the most beautiful climbing roses there is. 5) ‘Rambling Rector’ This fast-growing rose would be perfect for larger gardens since it can grow to 30ft and above. Its white petals and yellow centre create a very distinctive look and although it only flowers during the summer, it’s still a great choice of climbing rose for shaded areas. 6) ‘Teasing Georgia’ This yellow rose is incredibly beautiful, with its tightly packed petals in the centre and paler petals around the sides. It has a great scent and would be perfect on a north wall due to its ability to cope with shade and overall hardiness. 7) ‘Zephirine Drouhin’ The deep pink shade of this rose makes it a great choice if you’re looking to add some vibrant colour to your garden. It flowers from July until September and is one of the most reliable climbing roses. It’s also the only one in this list without thorns. 8) ‘Claire Austin’ 9) ‘Alberic Barbier’ 10) ‘James Galway’ 11) ‘Phyllis Bide’ 12) ‘Kew Rambler’ 13) ‘Paul Noel’ 14) ‘The Pilgrim’ 15) ‘Veilchenblau’ Growing Tips For Climbing Roses Although climbing roses can grow in a variety of conditions, there are steps to follow if you want them to be at their healthiest. Firstly, you should always plant them in soil that’s fertile and in good condition. It’s also a good idea to plant them in areas that get decent exposure to the sun but with a decent amount of shelter too. If you’re using one of the varieties mentioned above, then you can plant in semi-shade, but avoid positions that are in heavy shade for much of the day. You’ll also need to water the roses quite regularly, especially in the first season after they’ve been planted and during dry spells in the summer. It’s a good idea to plant climbing roses in late winter or early spring since this will give the roots time to get established before the drier weather in the summer. If you plant them in late winter, then make sure the soil isn’t frozen when you put them down. Climbing roses with some beautiful tints of yellow and pink Planting The most important thing when planting climbing roses is to ensure you dig the hole wide enough so it can accommodate all the roots. You should also make the soil at the bottom of the hole loose so that roots will be able to grow into it more easily. Once you’ve dug the hole you should carefully place the plant and lightly pack the soil around it and water it well. Maintenance As for pruning, you’ll mostly need to do this in the first couple of years as the roses are still establishing themselves. After this, you’ll need to do some light pruning in late winter or early spring. When pruning, you should cut back the lateral canes to encourage growth. You should also get rid of any dead leaves around the roses as this will encourage growth too. “If the rose becomes dense and congested, you should prune out some of the oldest stems at the base to encourage light and air movement for the remaining stems,” shares Colin Skelly, a Master Horticulturist.. “Keep in mind that although these roses tolerate partial shade, they will not thrive in prolonged heavy shade.” You’ll need to water climbing roses regularly if you want them to flourish. It’s best to water them in the morning. Be sure not to overwater them though, as saturated soil can easily lead to fungal diseases. It’s also a good idea to feed roses with organic fertiliser, with early spring being the best time to do this. You should consider adding some mulch in the late autumn too since this will provide some much-needed insulation during the winter.
Learn more
A Poinsettia Is Not Just For Christmas: How To Care For Your Plant Year-Round
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Plant Care Habitat & Growing Conditions Buying Poinsettia How To Make Poinsettias Rebloom Common Problems References When you think of poinsettias, you almost certainly think of Christmas. With their star-like leaves and (most commonly) red and green colour, these vibrant flowering plants make a popular addition to many UK homes over the festive season. Yet to bring it into your home during its December flowering period, only to discard it weeks later, does the poinsettia an injustice. In fact, if properly cared for, this colourful plant can survive the rest of the year in the UK, ready to bloom again next Christmas. As the poinsettia is native to Mexico, it does require some care and attention to keep it alive this far north – this is not a plant you can leave to fend for itself.1 We’ve put together this guide to the best poinsettia care and growing tips, to show you how you can keep a poinsettia healthy throughout the year, and benefit from its beautiful display of festive flowers for a second season – because a poinsettia isn’t just for Christmas! Overview Botanical Name Euphorbia pulcherrima Common Name(s) Poinsettia Plant Type Houseplant Native Area Mexico and Central America Hardiness Rating H1-H2 Foliage Evergreen houseplant Flowers Grown for bright red bracts When To Sow May Flowering Months January, December The poinsettia (Euphorbia pulcherrima) is a perennial shrub, native to the sub-tropical forests of Mexico and Central America. The plant gets its name from Joel Roberts Poinsett, a US diplomat based in Mexico, who was the first person to bring it to the US in 1828 – from where it was cultivated and sold around the world.2 National Poinsettia Day is celebrated on 12th December, to commemorate the anniversary of his death.3 Other names for poinsettia include Mexican Flame Leaf, Winter Rose and Noche Buena, as well as the more festive Christmas Flower and Christmas Star. The poinsettia is a hugely popular plant for the festive season, and many households will purchase one to display as a decoration in December, and then discard it come January. Potted poinsettias typically reach a height of up to 60cm and a spread of up to 40cm. As well as the most popular flaming red colour, poinsettia bracts (as the colourful leaves are more accurately known) can be orangey, yellow, pink or white. Hybrids with bi-coloured and marbled leaves are also available – in fact, there are now over 100 different varieties of named poinsettias.4 The coloured bracts surround the true flower of the plant, which are the yellow and green clusters at the centre. As the bracts are leaves, not petals, they last much longer than regular flowers (up to 12 weeks), which is what enables people to display them in their homes for such a lengthy amount of time over the festive period. Plant Care Sunlight Poinsettias require bright, filtered light in order to thrive. Their ideal growing temperature is 15–20°C, although they can go down to 13°C around pruning time (April). The best place to put them is on a windowsill or in a greenhouse, where they can bask in non-direct sunlight. You can also place them outside in a sheltered area of the garden, during summertime only. Watering Poinsettias require sufficient water, but not too much. You should aim to water the plant only when the top layer of its soil is almost completely dry. Be very careful not to over-water your poinsettia, as this can lead to root rot and can kill the plant. Poinsettias flower in humid conditions, so you can mist your plant during winter to replicate this. Habitat & Growing Conditions The native habitat of poinsettias is in the sub-tropical forests of Mexico, where they grow on hillsides and wooded ravines, and thrive in semi-cool, humid conditions, with lots of sunlight. Their flowering period is during winter, December to January, during which time they experience short days of 10-12 hours. The ideal growing temperature for poinsettias is between 15-20°C. They grow in loose soil with good drainage – they like it to be moist, but not waterlogged, as this can cause root rot. In warm, tropical climates, poinsettia shrubs growing outside can reach heights of up to 3m – much larger than the potted versions grown in the UK. Buying Poinsettia The best place to buy a poinsettia is from a reputable garden centre, where it will (hopefully) have been taken care of in the proper way i.e. kept warm and given the correct amount of water. Poinsettias are also available to purchase from many supermarkets and shops around Christmas time. However, they will often have been treated in the same way as the rest of the flowers on sale, and may have been under or overwatered, and placed in a draughty area near the door, which is too cold for the plant to remain healthy. We’d advise you never buy a poinsettia from an outdoor market, for the same reason. You should always check the soil of your poinsettia prior to purchasing – the soil of a well-cared-for plant should be slightly damp, but not too wet. Once purchased, wrap the plant carefully in paper or a plastic bag when taking it home from the shop during winter, to prevent damage to the leaves from cold temperatures. A plant which has been grown in the UK will be more hardened to our climate, so try to buy locally if you can. How To Make Poinsettias Rebloom In order to make your poinsettia re-bloom the following December, you’ll need to care for it throughout the year and replicate its natural growing conditions. This includes pruning it in spring and repotting it in early May. You should then keep your poinsettia in a light place at a temperature of 15-18°C. Once the new growth has reached 15–20cm, pinch the tips to encourage branching. The key to making your poinsettia re-bloom is to replicate its short winter days. Come autumn, start leaving it in the light for 10 hours, then moving it to an entirely dark room, devoid of any natural or artificial light, for the remaining 14 hours. If you don’t have a suitable room, you could cover the poinsettia with a large box instead. Ensure the daytime temperature remains constant at around 18-20°C (the nightly temperature can be slightly cooler, around 13-15°C). Continue to do this every day, without fail, until December, and the bracts should hopefully start to turn colourful again. Getting a poinsettia to re-bloom is not an easy task, and you shouldn’t be disheartened if it doesn’t happen. “Commercial growers control the conditions for Poinsettia growth very carefully, closely monitoring temperature, humidity and light exposure to be ready for sale at specific weeks in the year,” says Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly. “Trying to replicate this at home is not easy, so don’t be disheartened!” It’s also important to be aware that, even if you do everything right, poinsettias will not be as impressive second time around. They are likely to be taller and more shrub-like, and their blooms will be vastly inferior compared to the first year’s show. Two years is the maximum you can reasonably expect to get out of the plant. Common Problems Overwatering Although they favour a humid environment, poinsettias are very sensitive to overwatering. Excessive water and poor drainage can cause root and stem rot, and kill the plant. To avoid this problem, make sure to only add water when the surface of the soil has almost – but not completely – dried out. Mould Poinsettias are also susceptible to mould and mildew, which can appear as anything from a dusty white covering, to lesions and brown spots on leaves. Botrytis cinerea (grey mould) is one of the worst culprits. Mould can be caused by watering the leaves, high humidity, and stagnant air in a greenhouse – fight it by increasing airflow, decreasing humidity and applying a preventative fungicide. Leaf Dropping Another common problem that growers face is leaf-dropping. This can occur as a result of overly warm, dry growing conditions. If your poinsettia’s leaves are dying, move it to a slightly cooler location, make sure it has enough water and mist it using a spray bottle to replicate humidity. References 1. Fishburn, J. (2020, December 14). History of Poinsettia. College of Agricultural, Consumer & Environmental Sciences: Illinois Extension. Retrieved March 22, 2023, from https://extension.illinois.edu/blogs/prairies-perennials/2020-12-14-history-poinsettia 2. A Publication of the International Society For Horticultural Science. (2011). Chronica Horticulturae. Retrieved March 22, 2023, from https://www.actahort.org/chronica/pdf/ch5103.pdf 3. Poinsett’s Popular Poinsettia. (2013, December 12). US House of Representatives: History, Art & Archives. Retrieved March 22, 2023, from https://history.house.gov/Blog/2013/December/12-12-Poinsett/ 4. Poinsettia Facts – The Poinsettia Pages. (n.d.). University of Illinois Extension. Retrieved March 22, 2023, from https://web.extension.illinois.edu/poinsettia/facts.cfm
Learn more
These Are The Secrets To Growing Bamboo From A Pro Scottish Nursery Owner
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Where To Grow Bamboo How To Grow Bamboo Bamboo Care How Fast Does Bamboo Grow? Common Problems References The simple, cool, almost austere beauty of bamboo is an example of Nature’s own original version of ‘Swedish Design’ – except that bamboo is China through and through. This tree is of enormous cultural significance in China and even other Far Eastern countries. In this guide we share how to grow and care for bamboo plants in British gardens, including some tips from our interview with Kerri Dall, the owner of Scottish Bamboo. “Living in rural Aberdeenshire in Northeast Scotland, we wanted to create a lush, evergreen, jungle-style garden to give us all year-round interest in our garden”, explains Kerri. “However, with a very inclement & temperamental climate and cold winters often reaching -10°C or below on a regular basis, we needed to ensure we were growing exceptionally hardy plants. “We found bamboo to be incredibly hardy, and our 2-acre garden soon became a tropical haven. This started as a garden hobby but we turned our love for bamboo into our business in 2008”. Overview Botanical Name Bambusoideae Common Name(s) Bamboo Plant Type Perennial Native Area Americas, Tropical Africa, Asia Hardiness Rating H6-H7 Foliage Varied shoots, running or clump-forming types Flowers Flowering variable and infrequent When To Sow March, April, May When To Prune March, April The perfectly cylindrical, jointed, cool green shafts of bamboo are instantly recognisable. What is probably not instantly recognisable is that bamboo is a member of the grass family, Poaceae. Yes, bamboo is botanically and taxonomically related to grasses – the grass of your lawn, grasslands, meadows, and savannahs.1 The bamboo sub-family Bambusoideae comprises of three ‘tribes’ and a total of 1,675 species.2 Most species of this evergreen perennial flourish in humid and warm conditions in temperate and tropical climates. However, other species grow in somewhat more extreme climates such as the cold montane regions of the Himalayas and the hot tropical hills of Central America.3 It is a very hardy plant and various species bring an unlikely Far-Eastern touch across much of Europe, including the United Kingdom. This woody grass bears flowers but does so even less frequently than that proverbial blue moon is seen; most species flower once every 60-120 years.4 One cannot predict when a bamboo tree will burst into flower. Bamboo habitat stretches in a band across the world through its temperate and tropical zones. Giant bamboo in the Royal Botanic Gardens, Sri Lanka Each bamboo genus has a particular, preferred habitat which may be of vastly different areas in size. Though it may seem surprising, many clumping and running types of bamboo are hardy to H7 and their root systems and rhizomes can withstand temperatures well below freezing – down to about -30°C. Over the years, various species of bamboo have been introduced in Europe and the United States. Large species whose culms have high tensile strength, for example Guadua angustifolia, are grown on commercial farms for construction purposes. Small species which are visually appealing, e.g. Chusquea culeou ‘Cana Prieta’, are cultivated in nurseries for ornamental uses. Where To Grow Bamboo If you’re looking to grow bamboo in your garden for the first time, Kerri Dall recommends considering the right bamboo for the right place in your garden. “Think about what height you want the bamboo to reach when it is fully grown and choose one which doesn’t grow any larger than what you require. “If you want to grow bamboo as a hedge or a screen, plant the bamboo as small plants, space them around 1m apart and, within 3-5 years, you will have a reasonably established screen”. How To Grow Bamboo Matching bamboo’s ever-increasing popularity, an ever-rising number of suppliers sell quite a number of species of the plant. Nurseries like Scottish Bamboo sell potted bamboo plants as online sellers, specialising in specific bamboo varieties. Online nurseries sell various species of bamboo for different purposes including screening and fencing, planting in large gardens, and for indoor ornamental purposes. You are not limited to acquiring bamboo by way of purchase; bamboo very sportingly propagates from cuttings. Growing From Cuttings Taking cuttings from the many varieties of garden bamboo is fairly straightforward. A cutting can be taken from a plant’s culm as well as from emerging new growth. Autumn is the best season both to prune bamboo and take cuttings as well as to plant cuttings. First, take a clean pair of pruners or loppers. To take cuttings from a culm, choose a mature plant (whose culm is) at least 30cm tall, preferably more. Take a cutting from the top of the culm. The cutting should be about 10cm and include at least one node and at least one internode. It should not be more than one-third the height of the plant, preferably less. Dip the cutting in root hormone liquid and plant it in the appropriate type of soil. You can also take cuttings from new growth that is emerging from the ground: Take a cutting 20-25cm in length, making the cut at a 45-degree angle. Put it in a transparent pot filled with water and let it remain for one to two weeks, while you observe whether and how well the cutting is taking root. Change the water in the pot every alternate day. Assuming the cutting is rooting, prepare a planting pot or an outdoor bed with the type of soil most suited to bamboo and plant the cutting. Growing From Rhizomes Autumn is the best season to grow bamboo from rhizomes, though early spring after the last frost is also a good time. Using a trowel and a spade dig up the soil and expose a rhizome. Using a craft knife or other knife with a sharp edge cut off a piece that has about three growth buds. Clean the dirt and soil off the ends using a soft cloth and water. Plant it horizontally in a pot, buds facing up, under a layer of soil 6-8cm. Sprinkle water using a watering can but only to the extent of making the soil damp all through as overwatering can cause the rhizome cutting to rot. Water it every two days in a similar fashion. Keep the pot in the shade and away from direct or full sun but in a warm place. You may sprinkle a teaspoon of fertiliser with high phosphorous content. After about five weeks, break the pot and transplant the rooting rhizome into the selected spot in your garden. Because the rhizome needs to be protected from sunlight, transplant it well after sunset. Bamboo Care With over 1,400 species divided into three distinct tribes, and with stark differences between species, no single set of care and growing tips can account for all of Bamboodom.5 In the main, bamboos do not require extensive care. Watering Young bamboo plants need to be watered regularly and amply; mature bamboo trees growing in open ground do not need to be watered as frequently. “When first planting bamboo in the garden, the most important care you can give the plant is water. Bamboo plants are quite thirsty for water when first planted, but soon begin to look after themselves when they’re settled in” says Kerri. Potted bamboo needs to be watered more often; in hot or dry weather water it three or four times a week. If your bamboo plant’s leaves curl inward, it is telling you it needs more water. Soil Requirements Grow your potted bamboo in nutrient-rich soil with a pH of between 6 and 7. Bamboo does not tolerate waterlogged conditions so make sure that your soil drains well. As long as your soil has good drainage, over-watering will not cause any harm to your bamboo. Sunlight & Temperature Most species of bamboo prefer more sun than shade so try to ensure that potted bamboos get sufficient sun. If you want to go the extra mile, mist your potted bamboos every other day or keep a humidifier nearby as most bamboos thrive in humid conditions. Applying mulch to your bamboo is dually advantageous if you experience temperature extremes. In hot or dry weather, mulch prevents rapid evaporation of soil moisture. During cold snaps, mulch saves rhizomes and roots from freezing and possibly dying. Fertilising On feeding bamboo, Kerri advises: “Feeding at least once a year in Spring is recommended. “Bamboos love chicken muck or any other type of manure. I’d also recommend feeding every 2 weeks during the summer months, especially if you are trying to establish a screen or hedge with your bamboo”. You could allow dead leaves to remain where they fall; when they decompose they provide a natural mulch to their mother plant. Most species of bamboo are nitrogen-hungry so use some 10-5-5 fertiliser or go for an organic fertiliser consisting of blood meal with composted coffee grounds and vegetable refuse. How Fast Does Bamboo Grow? Bamboo has a well-deserved reputation for being one of the Plant Kingdom’s fastest-growing members. Bamboo growth is neither uniform nor consistent; it is dependent upon a few factors such as species, soil, water and climate. That explained, commonly-grown species in temperate regions can grow up to 9 or 10cm in a single day during the growing season. According to Guinness World Records, bamboo is not just a contender, it is the Plant Kingdom’s undisputed speed champion: unnamed species have been clocked at 91cm of growth in 24 hours (and that too in the United Kingdom).6 That works out to an average growth rate of 3.8cm per hour. In China, it is an annual occurrence for Phyllostachys edulis (‘Moso’) to emerge from the ground every spring and within a few weeks reach a height of up to 75cm. It is large bamboo species’ uniquely fast growth rates that, combined with these species’ great strength and versatility, making them the ‘go-to’ tree for many kinds of building and construction materials. Common Problems Bamboos outside their native habitats and especially those kept indoors are susceptible to diseases and insects. If you spot an insect infestation, use a thick swab dipped in insecticidal soap solution to wash the leaves. Do not apply the soap to the underside of the leaves if the insects are only on the upward side, and do not wash all the leaves on the same day. Increase the airflow and, if the plant is not already under full sun, increase its exposure to the sun. Yellow patches at or near the base of the plant may signal a fungus attack. In gardens and other cultivated settings, incorrect exposure or watering, or improper care may well result in problems. While underwatering can be a cause of concern, its effects can easily be reversed by increasing the amount of water given to the plant. Much more dangerous is overwatering, especially when the soil has poor drainage. This deadly combination can cause the roots and rhizomes to begin to rot. Other problems occur when exposure to the sun is too little or too much for the species in question. Too much sun will cause the leaves to scorch and die, affecting the rest of the plant. (‘Lucky bamboo’ is not, in fact, bamboo and so its well-known problem of rot caused by over-submergence is not discussed here.) How To Get Rid Of Unwanted Bamboo Bamboo has a reputation for becoming unwanted in gardens,” shares Colin Skelly, an expert in all things horticulture. “I’ve removed many over the years, using diggers as well as spades. “The right bamboos in the right place make fantastic and versatile garden plants, but do your homework. “Ideally, see the plant you think you want to grow in a similar setting. “Once planted, if it does look like you may want to revise your thinking and remove it, act before it really gets going.” You can get rid of unwanted bamboo using mechanical methods or chemical processes. We outline a mechanical method by which you can clear your plot of bamboo. First, cut back all the culms to the ground. When the cut-back culms emerge again, wait until they are about 60cm high, then cut them back again. Repeat three times. This repeated cutting will exhaust the plant’s subsoil food reserves so that it is weakened or even dies. Next, water the soil very well to the extent of waterlogging it, and keep it waterlogged. Using a spade, shovel, and hoe as appropriate, dig up the soil and grub out all the rhizomes and root systems you can find. Use a heavy rake to ‘dredge’ the soil of any hard-to-find rhizomes. Finally, pour ample boiling water in the plot to be cleared. When invasive species of running bamboo take over a parcel of land, they can be very difficult to eliminate because of their underground network of rhizomes and root systems. Sometimes the last resort and only resort is to plough up the land. References 1. Yeasmin, L., Ali, M. N., Gantait, S., & Chakraborty, S. (2015). Bamboo: an overview on its genetic diversity and characterization. 3 Biotech, 5(1), 1–11. https://doi.org/10.1007/s13205-014-0201-5 2. Bamboo Genera. (n.d.). ECHO Community. Retrieved March 13, 2023, from https://www.echocommunity.org/en/resources/cf9deeb0-620e-487e-8c43-9fbc9e3b0381 3. Hornaday, F. (2022, May 26). Bamboo in the mountains: Reaching record elevations. Bambu Batu: The House of Bamboo. Retrieved March 13, 2023, from Hornaday, F. (2022, May 26). Bamboo in the mountains: Reaching record elevations. Bambu Batu: The House of Bamboo. Retrieved March 13, 2023, from https://bambubatu.com/bamboo-in-the-mountains-high-elevations/ 4. Shimbun, S. (2021, June 18). Once in a Century bamboo blossoms observed in western Japan. Kyodo News. Retrieved March 13, 2023, from https://english.kyodonews.net/news/2021/06/232628087928-once-in-a-century-bamboo-blossoms-observed-in-western-japan.html 5. The Editors of Encyclopaedia Britannica. (2023c, February 9). Bamboo | plant. Encyclopedia Britannica. Retrieved March 13, 2023, from https://www.britannica.com/plant/bamboo 6. Fastest growing plant. (n.d.). Guinness World Records. Retrieved March 13, 2023, from https://www.guinnessworldrecords.com/world-records/fastest-growing-plant
Learn more
Grow DIY Hydroponic Strawberries Without The Soil Using These Systems
IN THIS GUIDE What Are Hydroponics? Can You Grow Strawberries Hydroponically? What Is The Best Hydroponic System For Strawberries? Hydroponic Nutrients For Strawberries Hydroponic Strawberries vs Soil Growing Growing Hydroponically From A Plug FAQs References There’s nothing quite as satisfying as a perfectly ripe, sweet, soft strawberry. As one of the nation’s favourite fruits, many of us are keen to try and grow our own. One method of producing this beautiful berry in our gardens is hydroponic growing. Whether you’re a hydroponic beginner or know your stuff, we’ve laid out a DIY guide below. Grown in half the time of using traditional soil, hydroponic growing methods can result in strawberry produce all year round. Hydroponic gardening removes the need for soil, as the berry is grown in a nutrient-rich container. For those that are completely new to hydroponic berry production, strawberries are a great starting point. They’re easy to grow and will give you the experience and confidence needed to grow other types of produce in this way too. What Are Hydroponics? Hydroponics is part of the hydroculture family. In garden terminology, this simply means that plants can be grown without the use of soil. The traditional growing method is replaced with a nutrient-rich water solvent, which sees plants thrive and even grow better in some cases than they would with the use of soil. The term hydroponics may sound pretty futuristic, but humans have been using similar methods for thousands of years. Today, thanks to the assistance of modern technology, we can apply the same gardening principles to grow plants quicker and faster. In modern hydroponics, William Frederick Gericke of the University of California in 1929 began to promote the method as a way of growing ‘soilless plants’ and claimed that hydroponics would revolutionise plant agriculture.1 Can You Grow Strawberries Hydroponically? Hydroponic systems give you the ability to grow strawberries at any time. Unlike the results of traditional growing methods, you can find yourself enjoying succulent strawberries even in the winter months. Due to their high water content, strawberries do exceptionally well when grown hydroponically. Using the method you can grow them anywhere from your garage to your kitchen – there are very few limitations. If you want to grow your strawberries using a hydroponic method, you’ll need to set aside a bit of cash to get started. We’re going to introduce you to the two main system set-ups and explain how they work. While it may be initially off-putting to have to invest money into setting up your own DIY hydroponic system, the results are certainly worth it. There are lots of advantages of growing strawberries using this method when compared to traditional soil, which we will come on to later. What Is The Best Hydroponic System For Strawberries? There are multiple hydroponic systems for growing strawberries. Both of the options we’ve set out below (which are popular amongst strawberry growers) will require you to set aside some money for the initial investment in equipment. Once set up, however, you’ll reap the benefits of using either of these soilless techniques… These are the two most common techniques used to hydroponically grow strawberries: N.F.T. As the most common hydroponic technique used for strawberries out there, N.F.T (nutrient film technique) involves sitting the plants in a net pot ensuring that their roots are hanging liberally in the ‘root zone’. The net pot can be filled with an inert medium, such as clay pellets. This efficient technique also allows for a reusable nutrient solution. The growing tray is set down on an incline with the aerated solution being pumped continuously around a circuit. You’ll need an alternative power source readily available in case of electricity failure. Ebb & Flow Otherwise known as the flood and drain method, this hydroponic technique is very similar to that of N.F.T. The plant’s roots will stay submerged in a growing medium and large amounts of nutrient solution is pumped to flood. The cycle will last a few minutes altogether. Through the use of gravity, the solution after being flooded on the growing medium will drain itself naturally. Hydroponic Nutrients For Strawberries If you want to grow strawberries using a hydroponic method you’ll need to consider the nutrients you’ll use in the solution. As the berries will be entirely dependent on the elements available to them, you should ensure that the following are used: Key nutrients – This includes Nitrogen, potassium and phosphorus. These 3 nutrients are essential for a strawberry’s survival. Nitrogen will help to build cells and aids the growth of the plant’s leaves and stems, phosphorus is crucial for healthy roots and potassium will allow photosynthesis to take place. Trace elements – Outside of the key nutrients, strawberries will also rely on some elements to be present in very minuscule amounts. Manganese, copper, iron, cobalt, chlorine, zinc, sulphur and molybdenum should be used in your nutrient setup. Without these, your plants won’t grow fruits. Hydroponic Strawberries vs Soil Growing There are several benefits to growing hydroponic strawberries when compared with traditional soil growing. As mentioned above, growing strawberries hydroponically requires no soil whatsoever. Water Use Choosing to grow strawberries hydroponically is far more water-efficient than growing these plants in soil. In a hydroponic system, the drainage water is collected and reused. In traditional soil growing, strawberries are watered from above. Some farms have reported using 85% less water through the use of hydroponic systems. Pests Hydroponic systems eliminate the thread of pests as without soil there isn’t the environment in which to host them. A further advantage of this is that hydroponic strawberries require no pesticides, making them more wholesome to eat. Strawberries that are grown in the soil also have to compete with weeds to grow. Planting Using a hydroponic system, strawberry plant containers can be layered vertically, saving space and making them easier to tend to when compared to strawberries grown on ground-level. The advantage of using such a system is that it also allows for an increase in the density of plants in an area. Cost While it’s true that the upfront costs of setting up a hydroponic system are significantly higher than choosing the soil route, you’ll benefit from yields all year-round. Many commercial farmers can benefit from greater revenue thanks to the quality of the plants. Yield When comparing yields, hydroponic systems generally are crowned the winner. Losses are also smaller than that of soil methods, where plants are at threat of pests, the weather and other external factors. Growing Hydroponically From A Plug Now that we’ve covered the ins and outs of the types of hydroponic systems that can be used to grow strawberry plants, you’re probably eager to get started. Generally speaking, most gardeners will choose to grow their strawberries in a greenhouse that has been set up especially for hydroponic methods. However, you can also take a DIY approach and grow indoors too. “Strawberries need good light levels, so if growing hydroponically indoors, consider using LEDs to enhance the light level, ensuring a minimum of six hours of bright light per day,” shares Master Horticulturist Peter Lickorish. “Hydroponics can work in greenhouses, but the benefit of cropping throughout the colder months will be lost unless you can heat the greenhouse to around 16-18°C.” If you’ve decided that you want to grow the fruit using this soilless method, you’ll want to ensure that you have everything required before you begin your new gardening project. In this DIY guide, we’ve set out the steps for growing strawberries using a starter plug plant, which can be bought from your local garden store or via an online retailer. 1) Clean The Plug Clean away any soil from the root of the plug. You can do this by shaking the plant gently. Next, soak the plant’s roots in water then rinse using cold running water to get rid of any last bits of soil. 2) Secure The Plant Using your net pot, you’ll need to secure the plant using clay pebbles, or another growing medium. 3) Plant Your Plug When you’re planting your plug it’s really important to ensure that the crown of the plant is placed at the right height inside of the growing medium. By planting too deeply you risk root rot and in contrast, if planted too shallow, the roots risk drying out. Always place the plant slightly lower than normal and then pull it up the growing medium while simultaneously shaking the pots to keep roots seated. 4) Remove Early Flower Buds While you may already see flowers growing after just a few weeks, it’s advised to remove them as this will encourage the plant’s healthy growth. Once the plant has reached an ideal size, the flowers can be left to produce fruit. 5) Allow Time To Grow You should begin to see flowers develop and you can use runners from the plant to start others. Continuous Fruit Production Once your plants begin to produce the strawberry fruits, you’ll be able to keep this going throughout the year. Unlike soil growing, strawberries grown indoors using a hydroponic system aren’t dependent on the seasons. Ensure that your plants have the correct environment and that the solution used for hydration also contains the right level of nutrients to keep the plants thriving. FAQs If our above guide hasn’t answered all of your questions surrounding hydroponically growing strawberries, we have a few more bits of information for you below: Are Hydroponic Strawberries Organic? Technically speaking, hydroponic strawberries are not organic. There has been a lot of controversy surrounding the debate as to whether or not a hydroponic system is classified as an organic growing method. Some hydroponically grown produce has been certified as organic, however many farmers argue that this certification should only be applied to produce grown using soil. How Long Does It Take To Grow Strawberries Hydroponically? The process can take quite some time, but the good news is that once fruit begins to emerge, you can expect yields throughout the year. From seed, it can take 2-3 years before the plant begins to produce fruit. However, if you use bare-root plants, you can expect fruit to begin to grow within 2-3 months depending on the variety used. Which Variety Of Strawberry Should I Use? There are lots of delicious strawberry varieties out there, which can leave you wondering which exactly is best for growing in a hydroponic system. It’s always advisable to go for a day-neutral as they are capable of flowering and producing fruit year-round. Others would require additional lighting at certain durations to trigger fruiting. We’ve set out some of the varieties that you could use below: ‘Seascape‘ – firm, good-sized with delicious flavour. ‘Albion‘ – sweet with a long, conical shape. ‘Quinault‘ – wider berries that are self-pollinating. ‘Mara des Bois‘ – firm, good-sized with a sweet delicate flavour. ‘Tribute‘ – flavourful and medium-sized. No matter which variety of strawberries you chose to grow, taste and quality are never compromised using a hydroponic system. The quality of the fruit has been reported as superior in some cases to traditional soil-based strawberry growing methods. How Often Should The Nutrient Solution Be Changed? This is an important question and something that needs to be considered to ensure that the plants can grow healthily. Smaller plants will require fewer nutrients. When growing, the strawberry’s consumption of nutrients will increase and, in the summer, they will consume more water in comparison to the winter. You should measure conductivity daily to help you understand the intake of the nutrient solution and change the solution based on this. References 1. Hydroponics History. (n.d.). Hydroponics PSU. Retrieved March 24, 2023, from https://sites.psu.edu/hydroponicspsu/what-are-hydroponics/hydroponics-history/
Learn more
Grow Euonymus ‘Spindle’ To Add Structure To Shady Gardens Says Colin Skelly
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Habitat & Growing Conditions How To Grow Euonymus Growing Euonymus As Hedging References Euonymus plants are incredibly popular in the UK and come in a wide variety of colours. Euonymus can be found in countless gardens and parks throughout the UK and its many varieties make it perfect if you’re looking to add some colour and variety to your garden. They are known by several names depending on the country – some common terms for Euonymus plants include Spindle Tree, Strawberry Bush and Wintercreeper. Euonymus comprises a series of flowering plants, of which there are roughly 140 species – some being deciduous and some evergreen.1 Overview Botanical Name Euonymus Common Name(s) Spindle; Strawberry Bush; Wintercreeper Plant Type Shrub / Hedging / Tree Native Area Mostly native to East Asia Hardiness Rating H5 Foliage Evergreen or deciduous Flowers Small flowers followed by colourful fruits When To Sow March, April, September, October Flowering Months June, July, August According to records from Kew, Euonymus is native to almost all of the Northern Hemisphere, as well as many countries in central and south-east Asia – as far as Queensland in Australia.2 Although Euonymus plants do have some practical uses (Spindle is used to make charcoal and spinning wool, amongst other things) their popularity is mostly a result of their appearance.3 Euonymus plants look great in a variety of settings and their vibrant foliage (available in a range of colours) makes them perfect for any and all gardens. “Whilst not the most fashionable of plants, Euonymous is a valuable garden plant, particularly for creating structure in shady gardens,” shares Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly. “Some of the variegated cultivars can be quite slow growing but others, such as E. japonicus, are very quick and make good bulletproof hedges and shelter belt plants.” Habitat & Growing Conditions The habitat and growing conditions of Euonymus will usually vary depending on the species. Spindle, Euonymous europaeus, can usually be found growing on the edge of forests. When it grows in the wild, it provides great value to wildlife, with a range of insects feeding on its leaves, including caterpillars, moths and butterflies.4 As with other species of Euonymus, spindle does well in the shade and typically grows between 3-6m tall, although it can grow higher when allowed to grow into a tree. How To Grow Euonymus One incredibly useful attribute of Euonymus plants is that they do very well in the shade. This makes them easy ‘set and forget’ plants for a shaded garden corner that receives little sunlight. However, if you want the leaves to be at their most vibrant, then it’s a good idea to ensure they get at least some light during the day. E. fortunei ‘Sunspot’ Euonymus plants also require very little watering once they’re established and can even tolerate droughts. Generally, you won’t need to use fertiliser for Euonymus plants. However, if you’re planting them in a container or the soil condition is quite poor, then you can use an all-purpose shrub fertiliser on them. Planting Euonymus can be planted at pretty much any time of the year, providing the soil is in decent condition and not frozen. That being said, there are certain times of the year that are more optimal for planting than others – the best time to plant Euonymus would be early spring or late summer. When it comes to picking the right spot to plant Euonymus, the main thing you want to ensure is that it has adequate space; this will allow for proper air circulation and help to prevent problems from setting in. Make sure you dig a hole that’s roughly twice the size of the root ball and if you want, you can add some fertiliser to the soil when first planting it. You should water it regularly for the first year, but after that it will require very little, if any, watering. Growing Euonymus As Hedging Euonymus plants are very often used for hedging due to their low maintenance and ability to cope in most environments. There are also certain species that grow to be very tall, making them great for privacy and creating shade. Below are some of the best species of Euonymus you can use for hedging. ‘Emerald ‘n’ Gold’ Possibly one of the more obvious choices as a hedging plant. Not only does it look great, with its green and gold leaves, but it also grows at a decent rate without needing too much pruning. Evergreen Spindle Another great Euonymus plant for hedging would be E. japonicus. As we mentioned earlier, the high growth rate makes it perfect for getting a lot of coverage. This plant isn’t just practical though, it also looks great thanks to its yellow and green leaves – while it also sprouts pink fruits in the autumn. ‘Emerald Gaiety’ ‘Emerald Gaiety’ would work very well for hedging too – its compact structure and striking white-tinted leaves make it an excellent alternative to more common types of Euonymus like ‘Emerald ‘n’ Gold’. References 1. Euonymus. (n.d.). North Carolina Extension Gardener Plant Toolbox. Retrieved March 15, 2023, from https://plants.ces.ncsu.edu/plants/euonymus/ 2. Euonymus. (n.d.-b). Kew Royal Botanic Gardens. Retrieved March 15, 2023, from https://powo.science.kew.org/taxon/urn:lsid:ipni.org:names:331601-2 3. Spindle (Euonymus europaeus). (n.d.). Woodland Trust. Retrieved March 15, 2023, from https://www.woodlandtrust.org.uk/trees-woods-and-wildlife/british-trees/a-z-of-british-trees/spindle/ 4. Spindle Ermine. (n.d.). Butterfly Conservation. Retrieved March 15, 2023, from https://butterfly-conservation.org/moths/spindle-ermine
Learn more
What Is Mushroom Compost? Here's When To Use It (And When It's Best Avoided)
IN THIS GUIDE What Is Mushroom Compost? Commercial And Garden Uses What Is It Made Of? What Are Its Benefits? Can You Plant In Mushroom Compost? What Plants Is Mushroom Compost Good For? When To Avoid It How To Make Your Own Where To Buy It References Mushroom compost is the compost used and generated during the process of growing mushrooms. As well as being suitable for fungi, it also makes excellent organic compost for a variety of vegetables, fruits and flowers, and is perfect for plants which require a lot of water, as it retains moisture. What Is Mushroom Compost? Exact recipes differ between growers, but mushroom compost is usually based on an organic substance such as straw or hay, combined with gypsum and horse manure or poultry. The mixture is placed in hot compost piles to process and pasteurised to remove weed seeds and microorganisms. It can then either be used as it is, or planted with mushroom spores. If mushroom spawn is added, the mix will often then be topped with sphagnum moss to promote growth, and placed in a dark, moist growing environment. After around 3 weeks, once the mushrooms have grown and been harvested, the excess fertiliser is sterilised, removed, and recycled into spent mushroom compost. Spent mushroom compost can be used to enrich the soil of a wide variety of plants, acting as a light fertiliser that slowly reduces nutrients. It has high water retention which significantly reduces the amount of soil watering required. It’s also a great way to improve the health of a lawn, and to break up dense clay soils. Commercial And Garden Uses Mushroom compost is an organic compost with a crumbly texture, a dark brown colour, and an earthy aroma. As well as nitrogen, phosphate and potassium, the compost also contains calcium, magnesium and iron, important nutrients for many plants. It’s ideal for mixing with soil to act as a light fertiliser, and to help retain moisture. Generally speaking, there are two types of mushroom compost – mushroom substrate, which is made for mushrooms to be planted in, and spent mushroom substrate, which is the by-product created after mushrooms have been grown. Commercially, mushroom substrate is usually made from a combination of straw, gypsum and horse manure. Bales of straw are saturated with water and then run through a wood chipper to break it into small particles. These particles are then mixed with gypsum and manure, and arranged in hot compost piles and watered, to begin the composting process. After around 2 weeks, the piles are moved into rows and left to compost down for a further 2 weeks. Following this, the compost is pasteurised, to sterilise it and remove any microorganisms and weed seeds. This mushroom substrate is then ready to be planted with mushroom spores. Alternatively, it can be added as it is to soil, to greatly enrich the nutrient content. If the mixture is used to grow mushrooms (as is more common), the compost will break down into a soil-like substance. Once the mushrooms are grown, the mushroom production house is steam-treated to pasteurise and remove pests and bacteria. Spent mushroom fertiliser which has been recycled from the mushroom farming industry is the type of mushroom compost usually found at garden centres. It has a lower nutritional content than non-spent fertiliser, as the mushrooms have already consumed much of the nitrogen and other nutrients. What Is It Made Of? Given the name, you’d be forgiven for thinking mushroom compost was made out of mushrooms. In fact, it’s made up of whatever organic materials are going to be, or have already been, used as compost to grow mushrooms. Common components include hay, straw, gypsum, horse manure, chalk, peat moss, sphagnum moss and lime. A recent study by the Pennsylvania State University found that mushroom compost has a 58% moisture content, showing that it also contains a high amount of water.1 As it’s sterilised during the composting process, the compost shouldn’t contain any bacteria, wheat seeds or weeds. What Are Its Benefits? Mushroom compost has a high ability to retain water, which means it improves the transmission of water through soil and helps to keep it moist. This makes it a great addition to the soil of plants which require a lot of hydration, and helpful to gardeners who are unable to water their plants frequently. Using mushroom compost can halve the amount of water needed to grow your plants. The high moisture content makes mushroom compost a great way to help the environment by conserving water. On top of this, the fact that mushroom compost is a by-product from the mushroom growing industry, recycled into a new compost with no additional materials, further makes it an eco-friendly addition to your garden. The straw base of most commercially-manufactured mushroom compost makes it suitable for breaking down dense clay soils over time. This can improve the structure and drainage of such soil, and make it more suitable for growing plants. Mushroom compost also contains a limited amount of nitrogen, which is essential for plants and foliage growth. As the mushrooms have already consumed many of the nutrients, mushroom compost acts as a light fertiliser that will gradually enrich the soil, without being so nutrient-dense that it encourages weeds to thrive. Can You Plant In Mushroom Compost? Mushroom compost is not a soil replacement, and you should not attempt to plant seeds in it alone. Its high salt content can be bad for some plants, whilst its water retaining qualities can cause waterlogged soil, which can lead to fungal infections and rotting. You can, however, plant in mushroom compost that has been pre-mixed with soil. Mixing mushroom compost with soil at a ratio of 1:3 in your container prior to planting will dilute the salt content and provide a slow-release fertilising effect. You can plant seeds or plants into the mixture, and expect them to benefit from a gradual supply of nutrients. What Plants Is Mushroom Compost Good For? Unsurprisingly, mushroom compost is most useful for growing mushrooms; this is, after all, the purpose for which it is designed. However, it can also be beneficial when added to the soil of a variety of potted plants, fruits and vegetables, where it works as a light fertiliser, adding organic matter to the soil and encouraging growth. The high amount of calcium in mushroom compost is particularly helpful for plants such as tomatoes, which can suffer blossom-end rot as a result of calcium deficiency. Mushroom compost’s high ability to retain water also makes it great for plants that require a lot of hydration, such as hibiscus and other tropical plants. We recommend incorporating mushroom compost into your soil before laying new turf or planting grass seeds. Once grown, adding a layer of mushroom compost to the top of your lawn can help to improve its appearance, as the limited nutrients will slowly permeate down through the soil and feed your grass, without encouraging weed growth. It can also be used as an effective mulch, when fresh, for the same reason. “When available in bulk from a local mushroom grower, spent mushroom compost would be my number 1 source of mulch,” says Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly. “It’s a great source of organic matter and is sterilised meaning that it avoids the weed pitfalls associated with many green waste composts.” When To Avoid It One of the most beneficial qualities of mushroom compost – high water retention – can also be the most problematic in certain situations. You should avoid using mushroom compost for plants that don’t like a lot of water or require good drainage, such as succulents. Similarly, don’t use mushroom compost in potted plants that don’t have drainage. The sterilisation of most mushroom compost before sale means it won’t contain any beneficial microorganisms, and should therefore be avoided if you’re looking for a compost that will help protect your plants from disease. You can restore microorganisms by mixing mushroom compost with another compost prior to use. Although mushroom compost generally has a neutral pH, if it’s been made using chalk, it’s possible for it to have a high alkaline content, which would make it unsuitable for plants that favour acidic soil. How To Make Your Own To make your own mushroom compost at home, you first need to decide what organic fertiliser you’re going to use. Straw, horse manure and coffee grounds are popular choices. If using straw, and only requiring a small amount of compost, you can follow the below process: Shred your straw into small pieces using a wood chipper, or similar. Clean the straw chippings using a mix of water and washing up liquid, to kill off any microorganisms, and then rinse with water. Pasteurise the straw by submerging it in a large pan of boiling hot water. You can place the straw in a strainer to make it easy to remove. Turn the heat down so that the water temperature is around 70-80°C, and allow the straw to soak for 1-2 hours. Remove the straw and drain it on a clean, contaminant-free surface. Once cooled, it’s ready to be planted with mushroom spores. You can also use a compost heap to make mushroom compost. Follow a procedure like the one below: Begin with five bales of wheat straw, 175 litres of fresh horse manure, and 5kg of gypsum. Add water to the straw then leave it for a day to drain. place one bale of straw, then a layer of 1kg gypsum mixed with 35kg manure. Repeat until all your materials are used up. Leave the compost pile to break down. Every week, you should move the colder outer material into the middle, to allow it to heat up. Once the heap stops generating heat, it is ready to use as mushroom compost. Where To Buy It If you don’t want to make your own, you can purchase mushroom compost in bags from garden centres and landscape suppliers. It’s usually labelled as SMS (spent mushroom substrate) or SMC (spent mushroom compost).2 If you need a greater amount, it’s also possible to buy it by the truckload. References 1. Mushroom Compost FAQ. (n.d.). American Mushroom. Retrieved March 21, 2023, from https://www.americanmushroom.org/consumers/mushroom-compost-faq/ 2. Using Spent Mushroom Substrate. (n.d.). PennState: Department of Plant Science. Retrieved March 21, 2023, from https://plantscience.psu.edu/research/centers/turf/research/research-areas/sms
Learn more
Where Alchemilla Plant Care Is Concerned, 'Be Imaginative!' Say The Experts
IN THIS GUIDE Overview How To Grow Alchemilla Plant Care & Growing Tips Pruning Alchemilla Alchemilla Varieties Common Problems References Alchemilla, commonly called Lady’s Mantle, is a perennial. The Alchemilla genus occurs across every continent and consists of 757 species, but Alchemilla mollis is found mainly in the temperate and montane zones of Europe and Asia, ranging from Finland down to Turkey.1 These herbaceous plants occur in clumps and have compound leaves that are lobed or divided, with serrated edges. Come summer, clusters of tiny polysepalous flowers (where sepals are free from the flower) make a demure appearance. Overview Botanical Name Alchemilla mollis Common Name(s) Lady’s Mantle Plant Type Perennial Flower Native Area Europe, Asia Hardiness Rating H7 Foliage Palmately lobed basal leaves Flowers Sprays of tiny yellow / green flowers When To Sow March, April, May Flowering Months July, August, September Curiously, this humble plant belongs to the same Botanical family, Rosaceae, as does the most popular plant of all: the much-feted rose.2 Other genera of this family include almost all the berries plus peaches, pears, apricots, plums, and more, so Lady’s Mantle is the poor country cousin among its distinguished family’s members. Unlike most garden plants, Alchemilla does not have stems, but, has rhizomes.3 These are underground or sub-soil stems, not to be mistaken for roots, that connect the surface shoots and the root system of the plant. The significance of rhizomes is that they play a part in plant reproduction, and, hence, is a botanical fact of value to the gardener. This little plant’s small flowers have no (proper) petals and are comprised only of sepals whose colour ranges from yellow through lime green to chartreuse depending on the species. Most Alchemilla species are super-hydrophobic or super-water-repellent. This quirk of Lady’s Mantle brings about its special charm: coruscant, dew-like water droplets coating its leaves. How To Grow Alchemilla First, the good news – and the bad news. If you already have some or another Alchemilla plants, you will not need to grow those, for Alchemilla self-seed aggressively and thereby also ‘self-grow’. Indeed, they do so to the point of becoming invasive during prime season. You can propagate Lady’s Mantle from seeds or seedlings, or by division, also called separation. Growing From Seed Seeds can be sown indoors in pots or directly in the chosen spot in your garden. If sowing outdoors, do so in early spring after any possibility of frost. Sow seeds 12-15 inches apart, cover with a sprinkling of soil, and water regularly and well. It will take 3-4 weeks for the seeds to germinate. If sowing indoors in pots, do so one-and-a-half to two months before your projected transplant date which should be after spring’s last frost. Transplant when A. mollis and/or similar species have grown to about four inches. Ideally the soil should be rich, moist and humus-based. Any potted seedlings acquired from a friend or a nursery may be transplanted using the same guidelines as above. Division Alchemilla are easy to divide or separate because of the thick sub-soil rhizomes and laterally-traversing root systems. Divide the plants in spring or end of summer, before or after flowering season. Plant Care & Growing Tips Lady’s Mantle is not at all fussy and requires but little care and attention. Most species do not tolerate droughty conditions so ensure that your plants do not sit in dried-out soil for any great length of time. Sunlight They thrive in any and all light from more than half shade up to full sun; however, most species need to be protected from full sun during a hot summer. In such weather, make sure to regularly water your plants and give them midday shade. Soil Alchemilla varieties grow well in most any soil – be it chalky, loamy, clayey or even sandy – so long as the soil is kept moist (but not wet) and well drained. Alchemilla does best in soils of pH 5.5 and 7.5. Measure your soil’s pH value and, if necessary, acidify or alkalinise. Add humus to the soil, especially in dry or hot climates. Though fertiliser is superfluous, if your Alchemilla are not thriving use slow-release organic fertiliser in spring. It takes two years or more from germination for Alchemilla to bloom, so, no matter how much you may pamper seedlings and young plants, do be patient. Deadheading Alchemilla is one of those uncommon plants for which an ‘anti-growing’ tip is called for. They self-seed to the extent of running riot and even becoming an invasive species. To keep this trait in check, move fast to deadhead spent flower stalks. Pruning Alchemilla Pruning as such is not necessary for Alchemilla. What you could do is to deadhead withered flower stalks and you may be rewarded with a second flush in late summer. If Alchemilla foliage or flowers appear worn or untidy, cut back the stalks to ground level right after the flowering season is over, and new growth will start to sprout. Colin Skelly recommends: “I cut back Alchemilla mollis plants to the ground as they tend to look untidy as summer progresses, especially after prolonged dry weather. “When they reappear they look much fresher and will look tidier going into the autumn.” You can obtain fresh growth at any time during the season by cutting back the plant. As most Alchemilla species self-propagate quite rapidly, you may get undesired seedlings in stray parts of your garden. If so, uproot them early. Alchemilla Varieties A. ellenbeckii is at the lower extreme in height, growing to only about two inches. Its silver-edged leaves are less than an inch in width. The Dwarf Lady’s Mantle of Eastern Europe is also at the short end of the scale, growing to only half-a-foot. With its clumps of palmate leaves, it is often used as groundcover. At the higher extreme is A. mollis ‘Robusta’ type which grows to two feet tall and also two feet wide. Perhaps A. conjuncta combines the best qualities of the species. It is hardy in severe and wintry climates, attains a height of about one foot even, bears lime-to-chartreuse flowers, and an attractive silver edging adorns its leaves. Finally, this is one Alchemilla that is not an aggressive self-seeder and, so, it will not try to conquer your garden! Besides borders and edges, Lady’s Mantle are often used in cottage gardens and rock gardens. Where Alchemilla is concerned, be imaginative! For example, you can make sharp use of a short or dwarf species to edge and line your walkway or driveway. Common Problems Alchemilla is generally not prone to diseases and is pest-resistant (which are indicators of its healing qualities). For these reasons too it is a low-maintenance plant. The only problems to watch out for are scorching and fungus. During sunny and hot summer days, protect the plant by giving it shade. Fungus may attack the plant in very humid conditions and particularly so if the crown remains damp. While deer and rabbits give Alchemilla a pass, cattle, sheep, and horses will happily chomp on most species so if you live in the countryside or in farmland, watch out for the mantle-munching ruminants. References 1. Alchemilla L. (n.d.). Kew Royal Botanic Gardens. Retrieved April 4, 2023, from https://powo.science.kew.org/taxon/urn:lsid:ipni.org:names:30008181-2#children 2. Cullen, J. (2005). Alchemilla Speciosa. Curtis’s Botanical Magazine, 23(1), 37–42. https://www.jstor.org/stable/45065731 3. S. (n.d.-b). Lady’s Mantle. Wisconsin Horticulture. Retrieved March 9, 2023, from https://hort.extension.wisc.edu/articles/ladys-mantle-alchemilla-mollis/
Learn more
How To Start An Allotment: The Beginners Guide With Secrets From Expert Gardeners
IN THIS GUIDE How To Get An Allotment Know What You’re Allowed To Do How To Start Your Allotment Maintaining Your Allotment What Time Of Year Should You Start? References Picture this: it’s a lovely summer’s evening, and you’re sat with a cup of tea in the shade of an apple tree. You’re looking out onto several rows of plump, juicy vegetables, all of which you planted yourself. A sweet smell fills the air, and the sound of traffic is so distant as to be barely noticeable. Sounds idyllic, right? With an allotment, this vision can be made into a reality. Peaceful, tranquil, and productive Technically speaking, an allotment is just a plot of land made available for non-commercial gardening by your local authority. According to the National Allotment Society though, “allotmenteering is a way of life – not a plot of land.” And we’re inclined to agree. “We are really lucky to have a large allotment which means we can grow a fabulous variety of fruits and vegetables,” shares Joe Harrison, known online as ‘Grow With Joe’. “This allows us to grow lots of different things throughout the year.” Your allotment is an opportunity to create an oasis of calm away from the stresses of modern life, metaphorically and literally. It’s a space where you can shed the hustle and bustle and go back to your roots; where you can see the fruits of your labour bloom in real-time. “I have an allotment in the Cotswolds which is used to grow my own food, as I am trying to live as sustainable and organic as I can,” shares Chris from The Bearded Growers. “Getting the kids involved is great as we are teaching them how to grow your own and it also gets them outside in the fresh air.” His Radio Co-Host JJ also discusses his allotment: “I’ve had mine for 3 years and it’s been a steep learning curve, but nothing beats growing your own fruit and veg. It’s my happy place and my escape from the real world. “Much like Chris, I grow organic and sustainably. If the feed is not natural and if it’s full of chemicals you can’t pronounce, then it’s coming nowhere near my allotment.” How To Get An Allotment The first step is to get in touch with your local authority. The Gov.uk website has a page that will point you in the right direction.1 In rare cases you’ll get an allotment straight away, however most of the time you’ll be added to a waiting list. In some boroughs, these are notoriously long (and only seem to be getting longer!) so prepare yourself for a long wait. The application process and the subsequent waiting period can sometimes be tougher than actually starting the allotment! Know What You’re Allowed To Do Allotments are covered by their own laws, and as such, allotments come with legally defined restrictions.2 Ownership of an allotment comes with expectations and requirements, and failing to meet these can result in losing your plot.3 The exact wording of your terms and conditions will vary between councils, but the core themes are as follows: Keeping the allotment weed-free and in good condition. Not using the allotment for any business activities. Not causing nuisance or annoyance to other allotment owners, or obstructing paths on and between allotments. Not building any structures without written consent. These rules can feel stifling, especially the one about not building structures, but it’s important to understand that they are designed to make allotment ownership accessible for everyone. If and when you move on from your allotment, future owners deserve to be greeted with the same blank slate that you were, rather than spending time or money removing buildings. How To Start Your Allotment Once you’ve got your allotment, the fun can begin. Remember that there’s no definitive right or wrong when starting out: it will depend on your skill set, what you want to achieve, the size of the plot, the condition it’s in, and various other factors. “I have been gardening for about thirty years and am lucky enough to have a medium-sized garden and an allotment,” shares Molly Hollman, Garden Photographer. “I have a good-sized flower bed and I grow the flowers and plants I love to photograph, especially wildflowers and plants to encourage pollinators.” The tips in this section are intended to guide you in the right direction. As you become familiar with your allotment and the work it requires, it’s very likely you’ll deviate from these points and decide how best to structure your time. 1) Make A Plan A good first step is to outline what you want to achieve with your allotment: Are you going to grow common veggies to save a bit of money on your shopping, or do you fancy growing something a bit more exotic? Or maybe you’re only interested in growing fruit? And do you want a year-round harvest, or would you rather have minimal involvement over winter? Ask yourself questions about what you want to grow and when you want to harvest it, then research accordingly. If you know what you want to grow, write down the times you’ll need to sow and harvest. If you know when you want to be at your allotment, research plants and seeds that fit your preferred schedule. A sowing calendar might be helpful at this stage A good plan will provide a structure for you to work towards. It should include: What needs to be planted and when. What needs to be harvested and when. General workdays for things like weeding and clearing. 2) Be Realistic An allotment can feel like a blank slate, ready to be filled with all sorts of wonderful things, but remember that it’s you that has to make them happen! It’s important to stay realistic with your plans and to not overwhelm yourself, especially in the early stages. “I am quite selective about what I grow on my allotment because of space,” says Val Bourne, a Garden Writer. “Luckily, I have a garden too, so I can grow vegetables in that.” There’s nothing worse than getting demotivated because your wildly ambitious planting plans aren’t coming to fruition. “Our allotment is roughly the size of a doubles tennis court, and when we took it over, it was an extremely overgrown, unkempt mess which took years to get in order,” shares Joe. “Once all the weeds, grass, bushes, tree stumps and rubbish was removed we were left with an incredibly large blank canvas to try and manage. “After a few years, we realised that trying to maintain and plant in such a large area really wasn’t sustainable, so we added some raised beds which really helped.” Here’s what to keep in mind: How much help can you get? The amount of manpower you can draw on will determine what you can achieve. Some allotments have management teams who can help with initial clearance, for example. And what about friends and family: will you be able to count on their help in exchange for a share of the harvest? How much time can you devote to your allotment? Gardening can be hard work. A session of 1-2 hours will feel like a good workout, especially if you do multiple sessions each week. Try to understand how long each task will take, and plan accordingly. What condition is your allotment in? If you’ve inherited a plot in poor condition – with weeds and so on – you’ll need to allocate more time to make it more workable. If you did inherit lots of weeds, don’t despair. They’re a sign that the soil in your allotment is fertile: definitely a silver lining! “The big problem with allotments is that they are full of pests and diseases,” shares Val. “My allotment is also quite dry and I can’t grow brassicas on it because they just go down with cabbage white butterflies. “Having an allotment is brilliant, but you might have to limit what you grow there.” You should expect it to take a year or even more for the whole plot to be usable, so setting expectations early – and giving yourself an honest idea of what you’re up against – can help to tackle despair and frustration later on. Remember: allotmenting is a way of life and not just a plot of land, and you will notice a return on the time you invest in the early stages. 3) Organic Or Non-Organic? It’s good to make this decision early on, as certain gardening practices will be out of bounds if you decide to go for organic. Organic gardeners believe that you should work with a garden rather than trying to exert control over it. Practices that support and encourage natural processes are used, rather than man-made solutions like pesticides and artificial fertilisers. If you value things like recycling, renewable energy, reducing pollution, avoiding waste, and similar, then organic gardening could be for you. “If you are an organic gardener, growing your own produce is very important to you,” shares Val. “I try to grow as much food as I can an my allotment because I don’t want to have chemicals on our food.” The benefits: Reduces the number of chemicals going into the ground and, by extension, into your crops. Effective in managing pests, weeds and disease. Effective in maintaining soil nutrients. And the potential drawbacks: Certain tasks may take longer: erecting netting is slower than spraying pesticide, for example. There will likely be a bit more damage to your crops. “I got my allotment about 25 years ago when I first started gardening,” explains Janice Shipp, a Garden Writer. “I think I just wanted to grow vegetables in a natural way without any chemical sprays and I wanted to eat things when they were really fresh. “I’m not sure I thought about it being ‘organic’ because I didn’t know much about it then, but I wanted some control over how my food was grown.” Whatever you decide, bear in mind that owners of nearby allotments may follow organic processes, and may feel compelled to say something if you’re spraying powerful chemical pesticides all over the place. 4) Make A Map Once you’ve got a plan, and you’ve made the decision of what type of allotment you’ll be growing, you can decide what it will look like. A physical map of your space is a useful reference point when starting an allotment. It will help you to visualise what the space will eventually look like, which can be motivating in the early days when you’re faced with an overgrown patch of weeds. It’s also a great way of making sure the design flows together before you pick up any tools. To make a map as useful as possible, include beds, paths, and structures. Marking the rough boundaries of different crops is a good way to keep track of what you’re growing, and to visualise crop rotation patterns (more on this later!). The more detailed the map, the more useful it will be: Where will the compost bin go? And the water butts? What about an area to sit with a cup of tea and a sandwich after a long session? Including shade and sunlight areas on the map is helpful when planning which plants will go where. Drawing a compass bearing on your map can help with this, as can lightly marking the shadows of structures and trees. Diligence at this stage will pay dividends later. If you don’t fancy making a map, you should at least have a mental image of what you’re aiming for. 5) Clear Your Allotment Now comes the physical stuff. Getting rid of everything you don’t want is a cathartic process, and can often cement the feeling that the allotment is yours rather than borrowed. It’s an opportunity to look for another silver lining, too: although it’s hard work, you’re preparing a space to be filled only by the things you have chosen. Rubbish can be removed easily, just take it away in bags to your bins at home, or to a dump. Unwanted plants can be cut down and either composted or removed. This takes a little longer. Shrubs and bushes should be cut back to ground level. Consider borrowing a strimmer if you don’t fancy trimming entire bushes back with secateurs! Then comes the weeding, which is potentially the longest job. So much so that we’ve dedicated a section to it… 6) Clear The Weeds! Depending on how severe the weeds are you can either remove them by hand or cover them with sheeting to starve them of sunlight. “No-dig gardening is increasingly popular because it both avoids the effort of digging and protects soil structure and fungi,” shares Horticulturist Colin Skelly. “Just start with a thick layer of compost mulch and plant straight into it. “Charles Dowding is the go-to-market gardener who has done much to promote this growing technique.” Removing them by hand will involve spending a lot of time on your knees, rummaging around in the dirt. It’s hard work and slow progress, but seeing a freshly weeded bed is very satisfying. “When starting your allotment, don’t get overwhelmed,” says Chris. “A plot full of weeds is a daunting task. Break it down into smaller chunks and when you have weeded and turned over a small area, make sure you plant something. “Nobody wants to just weed and dig for weeks on end, so seeing something grow can really keep you motivated.” One thing to remember: don’t throw perennial weeds or weeds that have gone to seed in the compost! They’ll just infest your pile. If you go for a sheet, you can throw it over the top and forget about it until next year (or at least the end of the next growing season). The weeds will die slowly as they are starved of sunlight, leaving a nice fresh bed for next season. Weigh down the corners and sides with stones to prevent the sheet from blowing away when it’s windy. Also consider a sheet that water can run through: the weeds will take a bit longer to die off, but it’ll be easier to work with wet ground when it’s time to plant things. 7) Prepare The Soil With all the weeds removed, you can prepare your soil for planting. Breaking up the soil will make it easier to plant into, and mixing in compost or other organic matter will help to replenish any nutrients that may be missing. If you’re feeling especially diligent you can do a PH test to find out the condition of the soil. This will give a clearer picture of what nutrients – if any – need to be restored. 8) Plant Something! Finally, the reason you got an allotment in the first place! After lots of planning and preparation, you should now have beds of fresh, healthy soil to plant into. Refer back to your plan to see what needs planting and when. “At the moment, my allotment is really full of life and I’ve been harvesting garlic, potatoes, peas and beetroots recently,” shares Garden Podcaster Shannon Keary. “My absolute favourites have to be melons, sweetcorn and pumpkins.” We really recommend not waiting for the whole plot to be cleared before planting begins: you can plant in each bed as it becomes ready. This gives you the motivational boost of knowing that things are growing, even though there’s still work to be done. “I’m growing all my favourites this year – sweetcorn, tomatoes, courgettes, squash, onions, climbing french beans and lots of brassicas, but the slugs have been at those and I’m not sure what will survive,” says Janice. “Anything is fair game for growing and soft fruits, courgettes, beans and squashes all feature annually in my allotment,” says Chris. “I grow the same as Chris, but I also like to experiment, so this year I’ve tried growing watermelon with limited success, but growing your own is all about trial and error, so all you can do is try again next year,” JJ adds. The majority of seed packets have instructions on how and when to plant, so we won’t give instructions for every plant. What we will say is that it’s important to take heed of these, especially the recommended distances between seeds. They may seem ridiculously big considering the seed size, but you’ll be surprised how big your crops might grow. 9) Crop Rotation This is a long-term investment, but having an awareness of the concept is useful when starting out. As your plants grow, they’ll take certain nutrients from the soil. Different plants take different nutrients, meaning that the soil can become depleted over time. (If you did a PH test earlier and noticed any issues, this is one possible reason why.) Crop rotation is an organic gardening method designed to overcome soil depletion by rotating plants between beds over growing seasons. The idea is to alternate which nutrient is depleted each year, allowing the others to replenish and for the soil to stay balanced. The groups usually used in crop rotation are: Potatoes. Brassicas (cabbage, cauliflower, broccoli). Legumes (peas and beans). Root vegetables (carrots, parsnips). You may decide to plant potatoes in a bed one year, then brassicas the next, then legumes, then roots. In a neighbouring bed you would plant roots first, then potatoes, then brassicas, then legumes. In the next bed: legumes, roots, potatoes, brassicas. And in the final bed: brassicas, legumes, roots, potatoes. At the end of four years, each bed will have been used to grow each crop once and – in theory – the soil in all four beds should be full of nutrients. Maintaining Your Allotment It’s good to get into the habit of visiting your allotment often. Even if there’s not a big list of tasks to be done, regular contact with the space helps you keep an eye on things, and nip problems in the bud. As we mentioned earlier, try to get help from friends and family. You could organise regular work days where people can drop in and out, offering tea and biscuits in exchange for their hard work. The rules and regulations often state that you must not let your plot run to seed. If it becomes too overgrown, or if landlords have any reason to suspect that you are not taking proper care to maintain it, you risk losing ownership. What Time Of Year Should You Start? Each month brings different considerations in allotment ownership. Spring is all about planting. Autumn is harvest time. Winter is for maintenance and making sure crops are protected. If you’re wondering what jobs to do in your allotment in a particular month, we recommend the monthly jobs section of the National Allotment Society website.4 “Enjoy it once you’ve done the work!” concludes JJ. “I know that sounds simple, but when you have finished a session on the plot, take 10 minutes to sit and give yourself a pat on the back for a job well done. “You need to enjoy what you are doing otherwise you will be more inclined to avoid the hard work – and allotments are definitely hard work!” Happy allotmenting! References 1. Government Digital Service. (2012, May 2). Apply for an allotment. GOV.UK. Retrieved March 24, 2023, from https://www.gov.uk/apply-allotment 2. Allotments law and community growing. (n.d.). Department for Communities and Local Governments. Retrieved March 24, 2023, from https://www.farmgarden.org.uk/system/files/allotlawandcommgrowing.pdf 3. Allotments Management. (n.d.). National Society of Allotment and Leisure Gardeners Ltd. Retrieved March 24, 2023, from https://www.nsalg.org.uk/allotment-info/allotments-management/ 4. Monthly jobs. (n.d.). National Society of Allotment and Leisure Gardeners Ltd. Retrieved March 24, 2023, from https://www.nsalg.org.uk/growing-advice/monthly-advice/
Learn more
Master Horticulturist's Guide To Taking And Propagating Plant Cuttings
IN THIS GUIDE What Are Plant Cuttings? What Are They Used For? How To Grow Plant Cuttings 1) Take Your Cutting 2) Remove Any Excess Foliage 3) Situate Your Cuttings Using An Aeroponic Propagator Planting In Compost Growing In Standing Water How Long Do Cuttings Take To Root? Which Plants Can You Take Cuttings From? When Should You Take Cuttings? There You Have It… References Cuttings are a simple way to get new plants without seeds. It’s hard not to be impressed by the natural elegance of the cutting process: just snip off part of your plant, take proper care of it, and soon you’ll have an entirely new one. This new plant is a clone of its mother plant, which is truly remarkable. “Learning how to take cuttings is a useful skill that will help you multiply your plants and swap them with other gardeners,” shares Sally Flatman from Our Plant Stories. “It can be expensive if you’re constantly trying to grow plants and buy them all, so this is a great way of saving you some pennies.” We’ve written this guide to equip you with the knowledge you need to successfully take and grow cuttings. What Are Plant Cuttings? A cutting is a section of a plant deliberately removed for the purpose of propagation. Done right, you can grow a whole new plant without any seed. The word “cutting” refers to the removed section of the plant, as well as the act of removing it. When taking a cutting, there are a few things to bear in mind to make sure it will grow. But before we get into that, a bit about why people take cuttings. What Are They Used For? You can use cuttings to get more plants, either from one you own, from somebody else’s plant, or from something growing in the wild. Taking a cutting from your own plants is useful if you’re moving house and can’t take your garden with you, or if you just want to have more. Taking cuttings from someone else’s plant is a great way to share and enhance each other’s collection. Taking a cutting from the wild allows you to bring nature into your home without uprooting or harming any plants. “When taking cuttings from plants in the wild, care should be taken to ensure the plant is not in a protected area (such as a Site of Special Scientific Interest), the plant does not itself have special protection under Schedule 8 of the Wildlife and Countryside Act 1981 (such as the English Bluebell) or the plant is not an invasive non-native species (such as Himalayan Balsam) under the Wildlife and Countryside Act 1981, otherwise a criminal offence could be committed,” explains Roy Nicol, a Master Horticulturist.1 “It should be borne in mind the owner’s permission is required to take cuttings from someone else’s garden, a public park or garden.” The beauty of cuttings is being able to borrow plants from nature, friends’ houses, and even plant nurseries (with permission), all without damaging the mother plant. How To Grow Plant Cuttings I’ve recently grown a Syngonium Wendlandii (Goose Foot) houseplant from an unrooted cutting bought online. To help illustrate the process of growing this plant from a cutting, the steps and imagery below showcase how this was taken from a simple cutting into a thriving, healthy houseplant. 1) Take Your Cutting Cuttings are available online from suppliers and are commonly much cheaper than purchasing a fully grown plant. If you’re looking at taking your own cuttings, make sure you have a pair of very sharp, freshly sterilised secateurs or a horticultural knife. This is very important as it helps to prevent the introduction of root rot, which can ultimately damage or even kill plants grown via cuttings. “There are several types of cuttings, including softwood where the stem is new green growth, semi-ripe and ripe cuttings where the stem has started to become firm before it becomes woody, and hardwood where the stem is woody,” adds Roy. “Along this progression, stems have decreasing amounts of hormones to assist new roots being formed, so take longer to root but require less close care such as keeping a moist environment.” You’ll want to cut the plant just below the node: the part where the leaf joins the stem. Cut just under the node, very close to the stem, so that the node remains on the cutting. The node contains the highest concentration of rooting hormones that will give the cutting the best chance of taking root. For softwood, aim to take a cutting of about ten centimetres: enough that you can plant it in the soil with the leaves still a good distance above. 2) Remove Any Excess Foliage On this occasion my Syngonium cutting had only one leaf, but for other cuttings, to maximise the chances of rooting, you should look to remove all leaves except for the top few. You want some foliage so that the plant can photosynthesise, but not too many that this process competes with the plant’s resources to make new roots. Here’s an example with some photographs of a buddleja cutting I took to illustrate this: 3) Situate Your Cuttings If you’re not planting straight away, transport your cutting in a sealed plastic bag with a couple of drops of water. This will keep the moisture in and prevent the cutting from drying out. Put a label on the bag so you know what you’ve got, as identifying plants just from the leaves can be difficult. There are three typical options for growing cuttings, with each of these covered below: Using An Aeroponic Propagator For my Goose Foot plant, I decided to put my aeroponic propagator through its paces. This is essentially a sealed propagator which provides the ideal conditions for new cuttings to thrive: Water sprayer which ensures roots are constantly given enough water, without them being left in standing water (a common cause of root rot) Grow lights to support plant growth Water heater to ensure an optimum water temperature of 20-22°C Sealed lid to maintain humid conditions The cuttings are placed in small foam plugs which help to keep them in place. The 24/7 spraying of water ensures that the roots receive a constant supply of water nutrients and oxygen. Some choose to add additional nutrients to the water, but I’ve always had extremely positive results using water alone. Once the cutting was placed in the aeroponic propagator on day 1, it was simply a case of letting it sit for a few weeks to allow the rooting process to take place. The hardest part was resisting the temptation to remove it and take a look! On day 14 I removed the foam plug from the propagator and was pleasantly rewarded with the very early beginnings of new root growth. Notice the slight white bump where a new root is forming: You can see from these pictures that the plant also spent some energy putting out a new leaf which, while not ideal (we want the plant to focus all its energy on rooting in the early days) was still a sign of healthy growth. At roughly day 28, I was highly satisfied with the size of the roots, which had grown to around a few inches in length and were close to reaching the pool of water below plug tray. I removed the cutting from the propagator and used a sharp cutting knife to remove any brown matter, which should help to prevent root rot taking hold. I then potted it up in a mix of bark, worm castings, perlite, coco coir, charcoal and sphagnum moss. To help the transition from the propagator, I kept the plant in a warm location, watered it regularly and misted it to replicate humid conditions. From here, the plant can be treated like any other, being kept in a bright location with regular watering. Planting In Compost Another option for those that don’t have access to an aeroponic propagator is simply to plant your cuttings in compost. When it comes to potting, seed and cutting compost is the best option for cuttings as it has the consistency and nutrient balance to encourage new root growth. Cuttings should be planted into moist compost so they have water available straight away. Once planted, be vigilant and ensure the compost stays moist – the growth process is strenuous, so it’s important that cuttings have everything they need. Use a dibber to make a hole in the soil (this can be a pencil, pen, or anything long and thin), then poke the cuttings gently into the holes. Use your fingers to gently push the compost back against the plant. Before planting the cutting, you can dip the root in hormone rooting medium (water or powder) to boost its chances of growing. Then cover the pot with plastic film to seal in the moisture, tight enough that condensation forms inside but not too tight that air can’t get in. “I find clear freezer bags work well for this stage, with a small stick in the centre of the pot to keep the bag from collapsing onto the cutting,” says Roy. “It’s best to keep the cuttings out of direct sunlight while waiting for them to form roots as they can overheat.” You may want to label the pot to help you remember what’s growing inside. Growing In Standing Water The third (and probably the simplest) option is simply to place your cuttings in standing water. A test tube propagator is ideal for this purpose, and can be easily filled and placed on a windowsill. This is a process I recently undertook with a mint cutting and it was very successful, as you can see in the images below: The water should be replaced at least every few days to prevent any root rot caused by the roots sitting in standing water. After a while, the plant will begin to take root. Timings are covered in the next section. When the cutting is rooted it’s time to plant it out. Harden it for a couple of weeks (grow it somewhere with a breeze and sunlight to simulate outdoor growing conditions), then plant cuttings individually in pots. From this stage, they can be treated as regular plants. How Long Do Cuttings Take To Root? This will depend on the type of plant and rooting method used, as well as the type of cutting, as softwood cuttings root the soonest and ripe cuttings later. Some begin to root within a week of being cut from the mother plant, while others – succulents, for example – can take much longer. You should expect the process to take anywhere from two to ten weeks. In my experience, an aeroponic propagator can significantly speed up the process! If growing in compost it can be tempting to try and get a look at how well your cutting is rooting, but resist this temptation! You’ll be able to tell by seeing whether the cutting is still alive and well after a couple of weeks of being planted. “The easiest way to see that a cutting has rooted is when it produces new growth,” explains Roy. “This shows the plant is taking up water from the roots, photosynthesising and using the energy this produces to grow.” If so, it’s probably taking root well. If not, keep an eye on it, and remove it if it begins to dry out. Which Plants Can You Take Cuttings From? Plants that are showing new growth will be best for cuttings, as they’ll have the highest concentration of growth-stimulating hormones. If you have an old plant, you can prune it back to stimulate new growth, then take a cutting from this section. Healthy plants should be chosen for cuttings, ones showing good growth and no pests. Shoots that aren’t flowering will take root more easily. Herbs are very easy to grow from cuttings – and this is a great place to start if you’re a beginner trying to get a feel for the process. Mint, coriander, rosemary, sage, and all sorts of other herbs can be grown without any soil at all. Just place a cutting in a jar of water so that the leaves are a couple of inches above the surface, place in a well-lit area, and watch the roots begin to appear. Top up the water when it begins to get low, and you’re good to go. Here are some other plants that lend themselves well to cutting: Softwood cuttings, from perennials like petunia, geranium, pelargonium, biden, and more. Deciduous shrubs like hydrangeas, buddleja, lavender, and fuchsia. Succulents, although expect these to take a bit longer to go to root. Berry bushes: these are semi-ripe cuttings rather than softwood. When Should You Take Cuttings? It’s best to take a cutting in the morning, as this is when the plant material will be full of water. The best time of year to take a softwood cutting is in spring or early summer, as this is when plants are in the most suitable stage of their growth cycle. Semi-ripe and ripe cuttings are taken from late spring to mid-summer. There You Have It… Cuttings are a simple and elegant way of getting new plants. Providing you take care throughout the process, a cutting can grow into a strong and healthy plant surprisingly quickly. This guide has introduced cuttings and given basic instructions on how to propagate a plant cutting into a new plant. Time to go out and take some of your own cuttings! With cuttings, practice makes perfect. Try not to be disheartened if your first cuttings don’t take properly: you’ll get there! Happy gardening. References 1. What are the laws that protect wild plants? (n.d.). Lancashire Constabulary. Retrieved July 3, 2023, from https://www.lancashire.police.uk/faqs/wildlife-crime/what-are-the-laws-that-protect-wild-plants/
Learn more
