Growing
Choose To Grow Climbing Hydrangea For A Sprawling Garden Favourite
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Habitat & Growing Conditions Planting Plant Care & Growing Tips Preferred Sunlight Soil Requirements Pruning Propagation Where To Grow More Climbing Varieties Common Problems References Visualise a lush vertical sheet of dark green foliage up to 15m high, sprawling and spreading across the side of your summer house or up a wooden trellis, and bearing delightful, wavy clusters of white or creamy little flowers throughout summer. Like that vision? Be introduced to the Climbing Hydrangea. That near-ubiquitous garden favourite, the little Hydrangea plant, has a few less well-known relatives. These are the less-ubiquitous, not-so-little, Climbing Hydrangeas. Of the few thousand Hydrangea varieties, a mere handful are climbers. Overview Botanical Name Hydrangea petiolaris Common Name(s) Climbing Hydrangea Plant Type Climber Native Area Japan and South Korea Hardiness Rating H5 Foliage Deciduous, broadly oval leaves Flowers Showy white flower heads When To Sow April, May Flowering Months May, June, July When To Prune March, July, August For the most part, they are deciduous woody vines that climb using adventitious aerial roots that are not damaging to bricks or to other trees. A supplementary means of climbing is that the vines and branches themselves entwine around support structures, also holding fast using suckers. Although most Climbing Hydrangeas are deciduous, a couple are evergreen. However, whether a particular vine is deciduous or evergreen also depends on the climate: if the winters are mild, Climbing Hydrangeas may not shed their leaves. Hydrangea petiolaris Most species are native to a geographical area stretching from Siberia and Sakhalin through Southern China, Taiwan, Korea and Japan, stretching down to the Himalayas, India, and Myanmar in the South.1 Only two species make their home in Mexico, Central America, and the Southern United States.2 Different varieties attain different heights, but the tallest ones can grow up to 30m. If a Climbing Hydrangea has nothing to climb up on, it will creep along the ground, over time covering up to 60m². It forms pretty mounds about 1m tall, providing an attractive ground cover of lush undulating foliage richly dappled with white in the summer. Habitat & Growing Conditions Constant sun or bright sunlight can singe this plant. A band of temperature between 15-20°C is just perfect for this vine. In contrast, Hydrangea barbara can tolerate bright sun and semi-tropical conditions much better than H. anomala, the reason being that Climbing Hydrangea species exhibit diversity in more than just ‘looks’. Hardiness also varies between the different species, subspecies and cultivars. Planting The best time to plant Climbing Hydrangea is mid-Spring after there is no danger of frost. It can be planted in summer too provided it is kept properly watered. If the plant doesn’t seem to grow, do not worry – it grows rather slowly during its first 2 or 3 years as most of its energies are spent on developing and spreading its root system. Thereafter, upon becoming established it will grow much more rapidly, even as much as 1m per year. However, it will take about 5 years for it to start developing flowers. It takes 10-20 years for Climbing Hydrangeas to reach their full height. Plant Care & Growing Tips Preferred Sunlight Climbing Hydrangeas grow well in part shade to even full shade. Ideally, these plants should get some sunlight in the morning or evening, with shade or only dappled sunlight during the peak hours of the day. That said, in cold or temperate climates they can tolerate near-full sun. Soil Requirements What they cannot tolerate, however, is dry soil. In dry soil, the vine will wither and it may even die. This climber must be watered regularly and the soil should be kept consistently moist. The soil itself should be rich and fertile; best results are obtained in soil with humus or compost. It is not picky about pH, growing in soil ranging from moderately acidic to slightly alkaline. Feed Climbing Hydrangea with a slow-release fertiliser in early spring so that it will last through mid-summer. Pruning If you want to prune this climber, cut back vines as soon as flowering has finished, doing so before the appearance of fresh buds. If you delay this pruning and cut off vines with buds, it will result in a sizeable reduction in blooming the following year. In early spring, prune the dead flowers and other growth killed during winter. You may be lucky enough to inherit a Climbing Hydrangea or get it as a bonus on some property. If such a plant is unkempt and overgrown and you want to bring it to manageable proportions, do not prune it suddenly; prune it gradually over 3 years. You can shape or trim this plant by cutting off unwanted vines at the point they join the stem. Cut off dead, damaged, or unwanted stems at the plant’s base to kick-off fresh growth just before the growing season commences. One practical reason to prune this vine would be when it is climbing up a wall rather than a trellis, tree, or anything else that it can entwine itself around. When Climbing Hydrangea scales walls, it can rely only on its aerial roots and suckers which are not as strong as they are in other climbers. If the plant gets too bushy and heavy away from the wall, it may topple or slip. To avoid such a possibility, prune the climber so that it is flatter against the wall. Propagation Schizophragma hydrangeoides Climbing Hydrangea is best and most easily propagated by cuttings although horticulturalists also propagate it from seeds. Take cuttings between April and June before the advent of flowering season but after the start of fresh growth: Sterilise a pair of secateurs with diluted rubbing alcohol. Choose a shoot that has leaf nodes and emergent aerial roots and cut it at a point below the roots so that the length of the cutting is about 25cm. Press the cutting into rich and fertile soil that is loamy or peaty. The emergent roots and at least some of the leaf nodes should be underneath the soil’s surface. Water the cutting and ensure that the soil stays moist but not waterlogged. The cutting and the young plant may get partial sun but it should be protected from the afternoon sun or harsh sunlight. New growth should be observable in two to three weeks. Where To Grow Climbing Hydrangea plants can be put in many places for a variety of purposes. Here are some ideas:– Grow it up and over a boundary wall or fence to create a ‘foliage fence’, pruning the vine to control its growth. Let it gradually cover a house’s wall like a vertical sheet, or use it as a substitute for ivy. Plant it by a pergola and as the vine grows, entwine it around the structure for ornamental value. Simply grow this plant for the sake of itself, as outdoor decoration, over a trellis. Use it, managing the growth, to cover up unsightly patches or damaged spots on any wall or structure. Grow it on an open part of your acreage or beside a walkway as an unusual and eye-catching ground cover. As this plant attains its maximum height and spread in about 20 years, you can plant a vine as a bequest for future generations. A Note On Support Structures Climbing Hydrangea does not ’need’ any support structure at all. Sans trellis, pergola, and such, this vine will spread in undulating mounds along the ground, sending shoots and branches horizontally in all directions. For vertical growth, Climbing Hydrangea can make use of any type of support such as trees and walls to aid it in its upward trek. However, whichever structure that this vine makes its ascent on had better be strong because over several years the plant, growing and spreading as it does, becomes quite heavy. “Climbing hydrangeas will be equally comfortable growing down a slope as up one,” shares Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly. “Planted at the top of a slope it will slowly spread downwards and across the slope. “It will also form a natural vegetation barrier at the top of the slope, which can be handy if it is steep.” More Climbing Varieties When one talks of Climbing Hydrangea, it is usually about Hydrangea anomala. This species is native to Sakhalin Island, Japan, and the Koreas.3 The genus name is a composite of ýdor (ύδωρ) and aggeion meaning, respectively, water and vessel, describing the appearance of the plant’s seed capsules.4 A mere handful of other species exist. H. anomala This species can grow up to 12m. From late May to July it bears corymbs that can be 15cm across. These are composed of a ring of sterile showy flowers that are white enclosing a clutch of small fertile flowers ranging in colour from creamy white to greenish-yellow. This formation is called ‘lacecap’. It bears fruit from September to October. This is an unusual plant whose bark exfoliates, that is it peels off. It prefers part shade to full shade. H. petiolaris A subspecies of H. anomala, this hydrangea is so named because of its long and distinct petioles. It can grow considerably taller than the species, up to 20m, and its floral corymbs are also bigger with a diameter of 25cm. It has better winter hardiness than the base species. H. petiolaris ‘Miranda’ (or ‘Firefly’) More bushy and lush than its subspecies, the cultivar ‘Miranda’ (or ‘Firefly’) spreads more as well because it puts out lateral branches that grow away from the vine’s structural support, to a length of 2m. H. hydrangeoides (Japanese Hydrangea Vine) This variant from Japan is known for its leaves which are about 10cm long and are toothed and heart-shaped. It bears large lacecaps about 23cm wide. These comprise of cream-coloured small flowers ringed by showy white sterile flowers. H. barbara The only Climbing Hydrangea that is native to the United States, growing in the South-East, this climber has glossy leaves of a deep shade of green.5 Its white-to-cream floral clusters have a distinctly fluffy appearance. Pileostegia viburnoides An Indo-Chinese species, this vine’s narrow, elliptic leaves have a leathery appearance. It bears attractively thick panicles of cream-coloured flowers. H. seemannii This Climbing Hydrangea is an evergreen. It grows in Mexico and Central America and has large and rounded leaves and dense sprays of cream-white flowers. Common Problems Climbing Hydrangeas are one of those uncommon plants that are pest-resistant and disease-free. Any problems it may meet would have their provenance in human error or neglect. For the most part, just make sure that the soil does not dry out and that it drains well. Why Won’t My Climbing Hydrangea Bloom? First, if your plant is young then you cannot expect it to bloom. Remember that a new Climbing Hydrangea may take up to 5 years before it produces flowers. Another cause could be dry soil in warm climates – keep your Hydrangea vine watered and ensure that the soil stays moist. Yet another reason could be an excess of warm sun. Climbing Hydrangeas bloom profusely when shade predominates. Finally, a fertiliser that is high in nitrogen content or nitrogen-rich soil can adversely affect Climbing Hydrangeas’ blooming. For established vines that are not blooming, either cut out fertiliser or use 0-5-5 fertiliser to kill two birds with one stone: 0-5-5 fertiliser has no nitrogen to retard blooming and contains phosphorous (besides potassium) which stimulates blooming. References 1. Hydrangea anomala. (n.d.). Missouri Botanical Garden. Retrieved March 20, 2023, from https://www.missouribotanicalgarden.org/PlantFinder/PlantFinderDetails.aspx?taxonid=286935 2. Hydrangea barbara (Climbing Hydrangea, Woodvamp). (n.d.). North Carolina Extension Gardener Plant Toolbox. Retrieved March 20, 2023, from https://plants.ces.ncsu.edu/plants/hydrangea-barbara/ 3. Climbing Hydrangea (Hydrangea petiolaris). (n.d.). iNaturalist NZ. Retrieved March 20, 2023, from https://inaturalist.nz/taxa/410578-Hydrangea-petiolaris 4. ὕδωρ (Ancient Greek). (n.d.). Word Sense Dictionary. Retrieved March 20, 2023, from https://www.wordsense.eu/%E1%BD%95%CE%B4%CF%89%CF%81/ 5. Lady Bird Johnson Wildflower Center. (n.d.). The University of Texas at Austin. Retrieved March 20, 2023, from https://www.wildflower.org/plants/result.php?id_plant=deba4
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How To Grow Rudbeckia 'Black Eyed Susan' For Abundant, Long-Lasting And Reliable Flowers
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Plant Care Habitat & Growing Conditions Container Growing How To Grow Rudbeckia References Rudbeckia, commonly known as ‘Black Eyed Susan’ is a plant you have probably seen before, although you may not have known it by name. Its familiarity is down to the fact that this lovely sunshine yellow bright flower is commonly found growing wild in fields and meadows throughout the UK and USA. It is a native species of North America and, you possibly won’t be surprised to hear, a fully-paid up member of the sunflower family.1 “Rudbeckia tops the list of my favourite plants for its abundant, long-lasting and hugely reliable flowers, which open like small sunflowers in a domed mass,” says Matt Collins, a Garden Writer. “Provided it gets a good dose of sunshine, it’s just the most rewarding and unfussy of plants, with long-stemmed blooms that also make fantastic cut flowers.” This pretty daisy-like bloom with its yellow petals and dark inner circle (hence the name) is actually a pretty powerful plant. So powerful, in fact, that it will tend to eventually outgrow most other plants in its wake. Butterflies and bees use it for nectar – other garden animals including birds also feed on the seed heads. This is another reason why the plant is so prevalent – the birds and insects spread them as they fly back to their nest (with the seeds as food). “It’s a plant that a lot of people don’t love, but the Rudbeckia genus is one of my favourite species of plant,” shares Lee Burkhill, the Garden Ninja. “It flowers in late summer with typical daisy flowers that are bright and light up a garden. People love it or hate it because its colours are so intense. “It will pretty much tolerate every soil, so for new gardeners, it is great.” Overview Botanical Name Rudbeckia Common Name(s) Black Eyed Susan, Coneflower Plant Type Perennial Flower / Annual Flower Native Area North America Hardiness Rating Mostly H4-H6 Foliage Herbaceous, simple or pinnately divided leaves Flowers Daisy-like flowers, yellow for perennial types, other colours for annuals and biennials Flowering Months June, July, August, September Rudbeckia isn’t just grown wild, of course; you will also find it in gardens up and down the country where it is often used for creating colourful and attractive borders. In addition, its cheerfully bright blooms are also a favourite of many high-street florists. “I love to photograph Rudbeckias, which often have contrasting velvety textures that make you want to touch them,” shares award-winning Garden Photographer Molly Hollman. With both summer annual and perennial varieties, Rudbeckia comes in a number of different types and beautiful jewel-like colours. You will certainly find blooms appearing in shades associated with an Indian Summer, such as gold, orange, rust and yellow. ‘Chocolate Orange’ New hybrid versions are equally as colourful and arresting with their shades of emerald green and bright pink. In essence, Rudbeckia is a very pretty flower which is colourful, easy to grow and low-maintenance. The plant self-propagates so even if you leave it be, chances are it would still bloom prolifically in your garden. ‘Cherokee Sunset’ As a result, it is loved by the majority of gardeners, both amateurs and experienced types on both sides of the Atlantic. “Perennial Rudebckias are a mainstay of herbaceous borders and are particularly popular in prairie style and matrix planting with grasses,” shares Colin Skelly, a Horticultural Consultant. “They are well suited to naturalistic planting, and the range of sizes and colours makes them popular for other styles of planting too. “Rudbeckia is prone to slugs and snails when a young plant, but is more robust when established.” Plant Care Although Rudbeckia is capable of withstanding drought conditions, the flowers will grow better if they are watered when necessary. In other words, it is really not a good idea to let them dry out – not, that is, if you want to see them flourishing and brightening up your borders. ‘Toto’ Dividing older plants doesn’t just ensure you have healthier blooms, but that there isn’t too much spreading through self-seeding. Habitat & Growing Conditions Rudbeckia should always be planted in the sunniest spot in your garden. Or, if that’s not available then in a spot that has some shade, but also access to the sun at times. The soil is important too; preferably moist but not susceptible to becoming waterlogged following periods of intense rain. Heavier soil can be used, provided you surround the plant’s roots with plenty of good compost. Container Growing Make sure your container pot is at least 45cm wide and 30cm deep. It should also have plenty of decent-sized drainage holes at the bottom. This will ensure that the soil will remain moist but not waterlogged (as this would kill-off the plant). Any type of decent multipurpose compost is fine. Feed after two weeks then every three to four weeks after this. Incidentally, one of the best varieties of Rudbeckia to grow in containers is ‘Toto’, the dwarf version, since it doesn’t need as much room as the others. How To Grow Rudbeckia Start growing the seeds in a greenhouse or at least indoors, during the months of February, March and April. R. ‘Irish Eyes’ Expect to wait up to three weeks for them to germinate. Then, as they grow either thin them out to around 30cm space in between or put them into pots. Finally, move them into their final positions when the root balls are strong and large enough to transfer. If you’ve tried both methods of growing (directly planting into the soil and transplanting), then you have probably noticed that directly sown seeds will often not flower until their second year, while transplanted rootballs will bloom within the first 12 months. References 1. Rudbeckia. (n.d.). Kew Royal Botanic Gardens. Retrieved March 23, 2023, from https://powo.science.kew.org/taxon/urn:lsid:ipni.org:names:329766-2
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How To Grow Penstemon Including Common Varieties And Problems To Watch Out For
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Habitat & Growing Conditions Common Varieties How To Grow Penstemon Plant Care Common Problems References Penstemon are a popular perennial that will bring unique beauty to your garden and are fairly hardy, typically being able to cope in all but the harshest of UK gardens. They come in many varieties and provide you with a way to add great colour and interest to your garden. They’re perfect for planting in flowerbeds as well as containers and can cope very well with the harsh winter weather. Penstemon might not be native to the UK, but you can very easily introduce them in your garden and expect them to last for many years. “There are some tender forms of annual or biennial Penstemon, so it is always worth checking the hardiness of the species before buying,” says Master Horticulturist Dan Ori. Overview Botanical Name Penstemon Plant Type Perennial Flower Native Area North America Hardiness Rating H3/H4 Foliage Deciduous or evergreen with simple, narrow leaves Flowers Bell or funnel-shaped flowers in various shades When To Sow March, April, May Flowering Months June, July, August, September When To Prune September, October, November The term ‘Penstemon’ was first established in 1748 by scientist, John Mitchell.1 Up until the early 1800s, there were very few recognised species of penstemon, but this changed considerably as the century went on, with many expeditions across the States and Mexico unearthing new findings. P. x mexicali ‘Red Rocks’ Today, according to Oxford University, there are some 280 species in the genus.2 Although penstemon plants are native to North America, they are now popular in many parts of the world thanks to their great variety of colours and hardiness.3 Habitat & Growing Conditions Most species of the ‘Beardtongue’ family are native to North America. Given the vast size of the continent, penstemon are acclimatised to survive in a variety of climates and adapt to their environment very well. They can be found growing in very dry climates, such as the Utah desert, as well as more varied climates throughout the United States. Common Varieties Below are some of the most popular varieties of penstemon plants: ‘Husker Red’ Also known as ‘Foxglove beardtongue’, this variety is very popular with growers, due to its distinctive red foliage and the fact that it flowers well year after year. ‘Burgundy’ Burgundy is another popular variety of penstemon, and with its deep purple flowers, it makes an excellent cut plant. If you’re growing this variety it’s a good idea to propagate it in late autumn, since it doesn’t always survive the winter. ‘Apple Blossom’ This quick-growing variety has white and pink flowers and is excellent for growing in flowerbeds as well as using as a cut flower. ‘Alice Hindley’ These blue and purple penstemon not only look great but are a very practical variety to grow in your garden, since they cope with the winter extremely well. ‘Evelyn’ Evelyn are a particularly appealing variety, due to their bright flowers and plentiful foliage. Although they are compact, they can grow up to 50cm high. How To Grow Penstemon It’s usually not hard to find penstemon plants and seeds – whether buying online or from your local garden centre. Penstemon is quite easy to propagate, whether you choose to do it by division, seed or cuttings. Let’s look at propagating using cuttings first since this is generally the best method. Using Cuttings You can take cuttings from a plant at any time during the growing season, though the height of summer around June / July would usually be the best time. To get started you should take some cuttings from stems that aren’t flowering and put them in a small seed tray that’s filled with good-quality compost. Make sure you water them well after planting. You should trim any cuttings you use until they’re roughly 4-5 inches long and be sure to trim any leaves at the top and sides to reduce water requirements and moisture loss. P. frutescens Everything being well, the cuttings should take root and start growing. Depending on how many cuttings you use and the size of your seed tray, you might want to move them into their own individual pots. In any case, you should keep them away from the frost over the winter and plant them during the following spring. Division Lastly is propagating by division. To do this you simply dig up a plant, divide it carefully and then pot the divided sections separately. Again, spring would be the best time to do this. Planting Before planting, you should think about the best spot in your garden to grow these plants. Although they’re able to withstand the cold very well, many types of penstemon are sun-loving, so it’s a good idea to plant them in a spot where they’ll get plenty of exposure to sunlight. When planting, it’s a good idea to use some organic mulch as well as a fertiliser to ensure the plants take well. The best time to plant penstemons would be in spring or early summer. This will ensure they have plenty of time to get established before the cold weather starts to arrive in autumn and winter. Plant Care Growing your own penstemons isn’t too complicated, but it’s still worth knowing the best way to go about it if you want your plants to thrive. Below are all the main aspects of growing penstemons in your garden. Water Requirements Generally, watering isn’t too much of a concern with penstemons, since they love the sun and can cope with dry conditions very well. You should ensure that the soil you plant them in isn’t waterlogged and the only time you’ll really need to water them is during prolonged dry spells and after first planting. Winter Care Penstemons can generally cope with the cold and frost over the winter, but this isn’t the case 100% of the time. Certain varieties are not able to cope as well as others, so to be safe you should add a layer of mulch in the autumn to help protect the roots from getting damaged. Common Problems There are a few ways to prevent common penstemon issues. Leaf diseases are often spread when it’s cold and wet, so anything you can do to keep your plants dry during these times will help. Using mulch, for example, will help to prevent rain from splashing up on your plants. Another good tip is when you’re watering your plants, be sure to be careful not to get water on their leaves; you should also be sure to remove any dead foliage you find on the ground. Proper spacing will help to ensure that your plants get enough air and circulation too. Although penstemons are very hardy and generally resistant to diseases and pests, they can still develop certain problems. Below are some of the most common ones, including how to deal with them. Powdery Mildew “It is very common to find a white dusty coating of Penstemon leaves, which is a fungal problem called powdery mildew,” says Dan. “This mildew will rarely kill an established plant but does look unattractive and does impact plant health. “You can apply fungicides, but for small outbreaks, I would advise increasing airflow but tidying around the plant removing some of the worst affected leaves. “As a prevention of sorts, you can plant in a free-draining spot with good airflow, taking care to water the soil and not the leaves.’ Rust Rust is a form of common fungal disease that can be spotted when see the formation of yellow spots on top of a plant’s leaves. Rust often appears during humid weather and a good preventative measure to take is applying fungicidal soap in early spring. In addition to this, you should also remove any infected leaves and if you notice any plants that are severely infected by rust, then you should remove them immediately since it can very easily spread. Botrytis Leaf Mould Another fungal disease – Botrytis leaf mould causes brown spots to appear on infected leaves. An organic fungicide may be successful at treating infected plants, but if you notice any plants that are severely infected and look like they’re beyond saving, then you’re best removing them completely. References 1. Don, M. (1999b, June 20). Tubular belles. The Guardian. Retrieved March 22, 2023, from https://www.theguardian.com/lifeandstyle/1999/jun/20/gardens 2. Harris, S. (n.d.-a). Penstemon species. Oxford University Plants. Retrieved March 22, 2023, from https://herbaria.plants.ox.ac.uk/bol/plants400/Profiles/op/Penstemon 3. Penstemon barbatus. (n.d.). Missouri Botanical Garden. Retrieved March 22, 2023, from https://www.missouribotanicalgarden.org/PlantFinder/PlantFinderDetails.aspx?taxonid=287041
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Add Depth And Texture By Growing Astilbe 'False Goats Beard' In Your Garden
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Why Grow Astilbe? Habitat & Growing Conditions How To Grow Astilbe Plant Care & Growing Tips Sunlight Soil Requirements Watering & Feeding Common Problems References The Astilbe plant is a herbaceous perennial, characterised by its divided leaves and erect feathery plumes of tiny flowers in white, pink or red during the summer season. Some varieties of Astilbe are also known as ‘False goat’s beard’ – for example Astilbe ‘Fanal’ x arendsii, which has serrated, dark green foliage and deep red-coloured flowers. This fluffy rhizomatous plant will not only add colour to your garden, but also depth and texture, as a result of the unusually shaped plumes. Overview Botanical Name Astilbe Common Name(s) False Goat’s Beard Plant Type Herbaceous Perennial Native Area North America and Asia Hardiness Rating H7 Foliage Ternately divided leaves Flowers Erect plumes of tiny white, pink or purple flowers When To Sow March, April, May Flowering Months June, July, August When To Propagate December to April by division As a very hardy plant, Astilbe grows well in a UK climate and I find it to be an ideal choice for areas where less tolerant plants might struggle – such as shaded locations or waterlogged soils. The fern-like appearance of the plumes looks particularly great in garden borders, alongside grasses and ferns. If you’re considering adding Astilbe to your plant collection, read on for our full care and growing guide, and discover the truth about what it takes to grow False goat’s beard in a UK garden. Why Grow Astilbe? Astilbe originates from parts of North America and Asia, and is a member of the Saxifragaceae family.1 There are at least 25 different varieties of Astilbe, and many more hybrids.2 Each variety has a different height, flowering time and flower colour; colours vary from white and pink, to red and lavender. Some varieties are commonly referred to as ‘False goat’s beard’, including A. ‘Fanal’ (x arendsii), which produces deep red flowers in early summer, and A. chinensis (Chinese Astilbe), which originates from China and Japan, and has pale pink flowers. As well as False goat’s beard, another name for Astilbe is False Spirea. These names come about because the feathery clusters of Astilbe give it a similar appearance to the true Goat’s-beard (Aruncus dioicus), and Spiraea plants. Astilbe is a popular choice for shaded gardens, and works well with other shade-tolerant plants, such as rodgersias and hostas, as well as grasses and ferns. It is often planted as part of a border, with several varieties of differing heights, and will add long-lasting colour and texture to your garden. Another common home for Astilbe is around a garden pond or stream, thanks to its fairly rare preference for waterlogged soil. Astilbe is a very low-maintenance plant, with few common pests, and is therefore one of the easiest perennials you can add to your garden. Habitat & Growing Conditions Astilbe’s natural habitat is the valleys, mountain ravines and woodlands of North America and Asia, where it often grows in shaded and boggy conditions. As a result, the plant does well in partial shade and favours moist or waterlogged soil. It does not like full sun or high temperatures. Ideally, Astilbe prefers soil that’s loamy and humus-rich, although it will grow in pretty much all soil types and pHs. Just make sure the soil doesn’t dry out, as Astilbe will not tolerate this. This is especially important if it’s in a sunny location, in which case lots of watering will be required. How To Grow Astilbe Although you can plant Astilbe from seed, I’d advise that this is definitely not the easiest choice, as it can be hard to germinate. Most people tend to purchase bare-rooted Astilbe plants when they are readily available in early spring, or acquire them by division. Plant Care & Growing Tips Sunlight Unlike many plants, Astilbe does not need full sunlight to produce its beautiful flowers – in fact, it favours the shade. It will, however, benefit from a little sun, to help it produce larger blooms. The best location to choose for it is one of partial or dappled shade, with perhaps an hour or two of sun throughout the day. Soil Requirements To plant your Astilbe, dig a large hole, and add some well-rotted organic compost. Astilbe can tolerate all types of soil – including acidic – with the exception of dry soil. As it needs a high moisture content, it will also do well in a boggy or waterlogged spot, where many other plants might struggle – for example by a stream or pond. Watering & Feeding Make sure to water your Astilbe regularly, and mulch the soil annually to help with water retention. Astilbe is a hardy plant, and apart from watering, requires little ongoing care for it to flourish and flower each season. It will die back to ground level each autumn after flowering, and fresh growth will appear the following spring. You can add a slow-release, balanced fertiliser at this time, to aid the summer’s flowering. Common Problems Astilbe is generally not prone to disease. Powdery Mildew One possible concern is powdery mildew, particularly due to Astilbe’s love of damp, shaded growing locations. Powdery mildew is a fungal infection which can lead to a powdery white coating on your plant’s leaves and flowers, as well as distorted leaf growth. To help avoid powdery mildew, make sure not to over-fertilise the soil, and don’t plant too densely, as this will stop air from circulating around your plant, encouraging the conditions for mould. Pruning back the centre of the plant or the division of a dense plant can also help as this will help to increase air circulation. If your plant shows signs of infection, you can tackle it by immediately pruning the affected areas, and removing any fallen infected material on the ground. You can also apply a fungicide. Bacterial Leaf Spot Another disease that may affect Astilbe is Bacterial Leaf Spot. The most obvious symptom of this is black or brown spots on the leaves. Unfortunately, it is not possible to completely eradicate Bacterial Leaf Spot once your plant is infected, but it can be controlled with the use of a fungicide. There are not many pests common to Astilbe plants, although vine weevil can sometimes attack with notches in leaves becoming apparent. Tarnished Plant Bug Occasionally, they might succumb to an infestation of tarnished plant bug – a 5mm, yellowy-brown bug, that feeds on plant tissue, sucking juices from leaves and shoots. These bugs can be controlled using insecticides, or by applying a garlic spray to your plant, to discourage feeding. You should also remove weeds and dead leaves from the area around your plant, so the bugs have nothing else to feed on, and nowhere to hide over winter. When you first plant your Astilbe, you may notice hedgehogs and rabbits nibbling on the leaves, but once the plant is established, it is generally fairly resistant to becoming wildlife fodder. References 1. Nardozzi, B. C. (2022, July 27). All About Astilbe. American Meadows. Retrieved March 10, 2023, from https://www.americanmeadows.com/perennials/astilbe/all-about-astilbe 2. Astilbes. (n.d.). Iowa State University. Retrieved March 10, 2023, from https://hortnews.extension.iastate.edu/2000/7-14-2000/astilbes.html
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This Is How Experts Grow Alstroemeria - The Perfect Statement Plant For Cut Flowers
IN THIS GUIDE Overview How To Grow Alstroemeria Planting Alstroemeria Alstroemeria Care FAQs References One of the most ubiquitous flowers found in bouquets in the Western world, Alstroemeria (also referred to as Peruvian Lily, Herb Lily or Lily of the Incas) is a much-loved bloom. The reason is not just the fact that it comes in a variety of beautiful colours and delightfully creative designs, but that it is also easy to grow by amateur gardeners and professionals alike. Native to South America, particularly Chile and Brazil, the flowers of the Alstroemeria plant don’t actually have a scent.1 However, their looks and durability pretty much make up for that. The plants will easily last until the end of summer when in the soil in the garden and for several weeks as cut flowers. Dog and cat lovers will be pleased to hear that Alstroemeria and its different varieties are pet-friendly. Overview Botanical Name Alstroemeria Common Name(s) Peruvian Lily, Herb Lily, Lily of the Incas Plant Type Perennial Flower Native Area South America Hardiness Rating H5 Foliage Herbaceous, thin lance-like leaves Flowers Showy trumpet flowers in various vibrant colours When To Sow April, May, June Flowering Months June, July, August When To Prune September The colours that the Alstroemeria can brighten up your garden, or indoors with, are rainbow-like and include yellow, red, pink, purple, white, lavender, peach, orange and even blue or green. “Like Dahlias, Alstroemerias are a bold, bright statement in the garden, but perhaps haven’t regained fashionable status in the same way,” says Master of Horticulture Colin Skelly. “I love them (the bolder and brighter, the better!) because they are great for cut flower growing and as a relatively low maintenance but high impact garden plant.” The leaves of this plant are long and slenderly shaped like a horseman’s lance, adding to its attractiveness. The patterns are fascinating too; it’s possible to choose from stripes and freckles and even two-toned petals. Alstroemeria can be grown directly in the garden soil (they make excellent border blooms) or nurtured in containers. How To Grow Alstroemeria Alstroemeria can be purchased easily from garden centres and nurseries around the UK. Such is the popularity of the plants that they are always in demand so sellers tend to be well-stocked. Florists, in particular, buy the grown flowers in batches. You can buy them in containers or as bare root tubers – most gardeners swear by the former since they are easier to grow and tend to be propagated from quality plants. Planting Alstroemeria When To Plant Sow Alstroemeria seed in the spring or summer months, using a good seed compost. It is best to germinate undercover in a propagator or at least somewhere warm such as a heated or sunny spot in the greenhouse, a southern-facing window ledge or conservatory. Certainly, the plants should only be planted outside once there is no further risk of frost on the ground (as this will kill young seedlings). This will obviously vary depending on where in the UK you live. Planting Out They prefer the soil to be light and deep; preferably filled with quality compost and mulch – at least for the first couple of years while the roots develop. And talking of the roots, these are brittle so take the utmost care if you plan on transplanting any of your Alstroemeria to other areas of the garden or into pots. Peruvian Lilies resplendent as a herbaceous border It’s best to plant the roots down as far as eight inches if possible. Alstroemeria Care Sunlight Alstroemeria prefers sunny spots in which to flourish, but they are hardy enough to cope with partly-shaded areas too. They will even flourish at the bottom of a sunny-facing wall. Soil & Mulching In terms of the soil, preferably it shouldn’t only be light, deep and exposed to the sun, but also organic. Chalk, clay, sand or loam are usually fine. However, if the soil is too sandy then compost should help with water retention issues and the plants can be watered regularly. If the soil is heavy with clay then the Alstroemeria simply won’t grow and will die off. Medium-heavy soils can work if gravel or mature manure is mixed in with it to help with drainage and nourishment. Mulch them with bark for the first two years to give them extra protection. Make sure too that the soil is free draining and slightly acidic to give the plants the best chances of growing. Give the plants extra attention if you’re growing from tubers. Staking As the plants grow, they may need to be supported with stakes or pea sticks. It’s common for the plants to grow to around six inches, while they will spread across the garden in an area measuring from 18-30 inches, which is why it’s excellent for flower borders. Pruning You can expect to get around 6-8 blooms per stem from your Alstroemeria if you prune it regularly. It won’t remain flowering unless dead flowerheads are removed; doing so allows the fresh stems to flourish. The way to prune these plants correctly is to gently pull the stem of the dead flower from the base of the plant (rather than cutting with shears). Cutting the flowers causes damage to the meristems under the soil and they will die. Having said that, if you want to use the flowers for a bouquet then cut the stalks during their first year. After that simply pull them out from their base as you would the dead flowers. Watering It’s a good idea to keep watering your Alstroemeria when first planted in order to ensure the soil remains moist. Once they begin to appear through the soil you can cut back but they do need to be watched for their first two years. Just be careful not to overwater so that the soil becomes soaking wet, since this can lead to fungus and root rot and which will definitely signal the end of your beautiful blooms. Peruvian Lilies growing wild in the UK countryside FAQs Are Alstroemerias Annual Or Perennial? Alstroemerias are tuberous perennials with deep and thick roots (once established). This means that they will grow back year-on-year and even grow in size each time. They are able to do this because although the stems die over winter, the roots remain healthy, allowing the plant to regenerate the following year. How Can I Grow Alstroemeria From Seed? Simply purchase seeds from your local garden centre or collect them yourself from existing Alstroemeria plants in your garden. Plant them in seed starting trays (having pre-soaked them overnight) and grow them sheltered in the greenhouse until you’re ready to transplant some of the seedlings into soil or containers outdoors in the summer, and laid out around 12 inches apart. In terms of growing time, it should take around six weeks for the seedlings to develop. They should be protected with mulch as they grow and covered with straw in the winter for the first two years until the roots are firmly and deeply established in the soil. Are Alstroemeria hardy plants? Alstroemeria ranks under the category of ‘hardy perennials’. They are capable of surviving intense frosts up to -20°C, provided they are properly mulched and their root systems are established and deep enough (usually after around two years of planting). How Can I Make The Most Of Alstroemerias In My Garden And As Cut Flowers? Use the plants to liven up and really add colour to the borders of your garden. As cut flowers, they can boost the colour and height of a bouquet. Taller varieties of the plant, such as ‘Orange Glory’ and ‘Apollo’, for instance, can add stature to a vase of flowers. The colours of the different types of Alstroemeria are so vibrant that they can be used to clash with other flowers or add interest when mixed in with paler and less interesting blooms. When choosing flowers for an arrangement, always go for those which are just beginning to open up so that the arrangement will last longer. References 1. Alstroemeria. (n.d.). Kew Royal Botanic Gardens. Retrieved March 9, 2023, from https://powo.science.kew.org/taxon/urn:lsid:ipni.org:names:326331-2
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Osteospermum - Grow And Care For Your African Daisies With These Practical Tips
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Habitat & Growing Conditions How To Grow Osteospermum Plant Care Buying Osteospermum References Plain and simple in structure, vivid and dazzling in colour, Osteospermum AKA ‘African Daisy’ has come out of Africa and into Britain; from the savannah to the garden. It has come out of nowhere into a rising arc of popularity – and why not? This flowering plant not only brings riotous good cheer, it is easy to grow and equally easy to maintain. Is it a subshrub or a shrub? A perennial or an annual? Single or clustered? Hard to pin down, the African Daisy is all of those! Overview Botanical Name Osteospermum Common Name(s) African Daisies Plant Type Perennial Flower / Annual Flower Native Area South Africa Hardiness Rating H3 Foliage Toothed, hairy leaves Flowers Daisy-like central disks with flat and narrow petals When To Sow May, June Flowering Months June, July, August When To Prune March, April, August, September Osteospermum species are perennials but the plant has been hybridised and cultivated for ornamental uses and most cultivars are treated as annuals. In the United Kingdom whether one or another Osteospermum is regarded as a ‘perennial’ or an ‘annual’ simply depends on whether or not it can survive a British winter and/or is allowed to do so. O. ecklonis and O. jucundum are two species which can, and, therefore, can be and often are ‘perennials’ in the UK. Though Osteospermum as an annual is rarely woody as when it is a perennial it grows to be a shrub. Usually one stalk bears a single flower but some cultivars produce lush clusters of flowers on a stem. The flowers comprise of a prominent central disk – the disk floret – and the petals – the ray floret. Most varieties’ petals are typically flat and narrow but some have curled, spoon-shaped petals. O. jucundum ‘Langtrees’ Osteospermum should not be confused with the related plant Dimorphotheca but it often is. Habitat & Growing Conditions The African Daisy’s natural habitat is the veldts, savannahs, and grasslands of Africa where they grow in relatively light soil and even poor soil.1 They are also found in and near dry forests. Their species – as opposed to most cultivars – thrive in sub-tropical regions with high humidity and also in humid warm-temperate regions. “I find the more hardy Osteospermum are cheerful additions to gravel gardens or rockeries, as long as they’re watered well to establish them,” shares Master Horticulturist Peter Lickorish. “Their bold, flat flowers pair well with more frothy upright forms such as grasses, Nepeta, or lavender. Alternatively, they have enough impact on their own to fill a container with joy.” How To Grow Osteospermum Plant seeds indoors in containers 6-8 weeks before the last frost. Cover seeds with only the barest sprinkling of soil – ideally vermiculite – as they need light to germinate. Water them twice a week initially and then as described below. Seedlings will sprout in about 2 weeks; water at the ground level and not on the leaves to prevent fungal diseases. Transplanting Seedlings can be transplanted into beds after the last frost. Transplant seedlings about 25cm apart. It may be late summer before seed-grown plants produce flowers. Established plants or store-bought plants will bloom earlier, from early summer or, depending on the variety, late spring. Most varieties will bloom in all their glory from May to early July but after that, as summer sizzles, the daisies dwindle unless deadheaded. Where To Plant The African Daisy is best shown off in sheets and swaths of flowering plants, mimicking how it occurs in nature, instead of in ones or twos. On patios and decks, a line of containers of bright-coloured cultivars set along the edge or on the parapet will bring low-key ornamental value to your enclosure. African Daisy can be used to line or edge walkways and pathways – try alternating patches with varieties in soft or pastel shades, say whites and pinks or yellows and purples. You can also use these plants to border beds whose centrepieces are showier or rarer flowers; to do so, use varieties of shorter height and complimentary, gentle colours. Finally, you can set loose an assortment of varieties and a gamut of colours in a good-sized vacant patch of your yard, being sure that no matter which ones you plant the results will bring merriment and good cheer. The open, uncomplicated structure of the flower combined with the colours that range from soothing, pastel shades to bold, vibrant hues make Osteospermum a top choice for floral arrangements, specifically mass arrangements, and also for larger bouquets. It is not recommended for emphasis or balance but is an excellent pick to achieve proportion, harmony, or rhythm. Plant Care Soil Requirements While African Daisies appreciate good soil, they grow happily enough in almost any old soil. Most varieties are unfussy, low-maintenance plants – all they need is regular watering but mature plants can make do even when dry as they simply go dormant, springing back to life when they get water. As a native of Africa, African Daisies grow well enough in sandy, chalky, and even stony soils, which is not to say that they should be grown in such soils. They need loose, light soils without much in the way of clay or manure. Thankfully, they’re unfussy when it comes to pH. Watering Mature specimens can tolerate a dry spell for a while but not waterlogged ground so make certain that your soil is well-drained. Moist soil, however, works well for the plant. Water a transplanted plant every two or three days for the first fortnight, then twice a week for the next fortnight, and then once a week. Sunlight & Temperature Though it may seem counter-intuitive for a genus of African origin, the plants do not do well in high heat, and cultivars in particular are averse to high humidity. In fact, most Osteospermums like coolish summers which lead to profuse blooming. ‘Sunny Mary’ However, these plants prefer full sun. Feeding You can increase the likelihood of plentiful and robust blooms by feeding African Daisies a sprinkling of organic fertiliser high in potassium every three weeks just before and during the flowering season. This is especially important if they’re grown in containers. Buying Osteospermum Osteospermum’s continuing rise in popularity is matched by a corresponding increase in its availability. Most nurseries and garden centres have ready stocks in an array of varieties. Potted plants, as well as seeds, are available online. Horticultural specialists sell established Osteospermum varieties as well as their own brand-new cultivars through their own websites. Instead of buying, you can ‘make’ new African Daisy plants yourself by propagating them through cuttings from late spring to late summer. References 1. Osteospermum hyoseroides. (n.d.). Kew Royal Botanic Gardens. Retrieved March 22, 2023, from https://powo.science.kew.org/taxon/urn:lsid:ipni.org:names:235817-1
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Six Garden Designers Share Their Low-Cost Garden Design Ideas On A Budget
IN THIS GUIDE 1) Decorate Your Plant Pots 2) Recycle Plastic Bottles 3) Repurpose Old Furniture 4) Plant In Teacups & Jugs 5) Create A Gravel Path 6) Add Borders 7) Plant Pretty, Affordable Flowers 8) Grow Herbs & Veggies 9) Paint Tin Cans 10) Plant A Tree 11) Create A Ladder Garden 12) Make Tyre Planters 13) Repurpose Old Clothes How Do I Change My Garden On A Budget? How Much Money Can You Save By Growing Your Own Vegetables? Not everyone has the time or disposable income to invest in expensive furniture and landscape design for their garden – but that doesn’t mean you can’t create a beautiful and inviting outdoor space, that functions for you and your household. Whether it’s through using recycled materials, repurposing household items, or painting your existing garden accessories to give them a new lease of life, there are lots of DIY and inexpensive ways to turn your garden from ‘drab’ to ‘fab’. If you’re looking to transform your garden on a budget, check out this collection of thirteen cheap and simple garden ideas, to inspire you to make some changes, and create the outdoor oasis you’ve always wanted. 1) Decorate Your Plant Pots Beautiful pink painted plant pot You may already have some plastic or terracotta plant pots lying around, but perhaps you aren’t impressed with their dull green or brown appearance. If this is the case, spray a primer onto your clean, dry pots, and use acrylic or outdoor paint to give them a new lease of life. Look online for inspiration and get creative with your designs, colours and patterns, to create unique plant pots that are personal to you. This can also make a great crafting activity to do with children. 2) Recycle Plastic Bottles Plastic bottles used in a vertical garden In a world where stopping single-use plastics from polluting our land and oceans is of the utmost importance, repurposing used plastic bottles as planters is both a cheap and eco-friendly garden design idea, as acclaimed Garden Designer & TV Presenter Danny Clarke explains: “Reuse the plastics in your home – don’t throw them away as they can have another use. “Plastics don’t decompose so we should try to hold onto them for as long as possible. “You can build all sorts of things with plastic bottles and pots, but if you don’t need them, give them away to other people for them to use.” To make a plastic bottle into a planter, cut a large hole in one side, and puncture a couple of small holes in the other side, for drainage. Fill with potting soil, and your chosen seeds or seedlings. Hang multiple bottles on a wall or wire fence to create the effect shown. 3) Repurpose Old Furniture A repurposed bathtub full of plants “Why not repurpose furniture for the outdoors?” asks Danny. “Give your old furniture a coat of paint instead of taking it down to your local tip. “I’m always amazed at the sort of things people throw away, as there are so many indoor things that you can quite easily repurpose for the outdoors. “Even if it only lasts for 3-4 years, it’s still not going to landfill and you’re saving money instead of spending thousands on new bits and pieces for your patio.” Consider whether you have any old furniture at home which might look better in your garden. An old desk can make an excellent potting table, whilst a chest of drawers can be used as a unique plant stand, and a disused dining or coffee table makes a great garden table. Paint the furniture a bright colour or pattern for a funky look. For the truly daring, an old toilet or bathtub can make a quirky planter, and is sure to get the neighbours talking! 4) Plant In Teacups & Jugs Plants in pink teacups If you have any old chinaware that you don’t use anymore – perhaps it’s got a chip in it, you don’t like the design – instead of throwing it out, repurpose it as quirky plant pots. “Not buying containers is a definite thing, as there are so many things we can use,” says Kate Cotterill, Co-Director of She Grows Veg. “Grow absolutely anywhere and in anything. We plant seeds in all of our toilet rolls and yoghurt pots, even if it just means growing them on a windowsill around the house. “Using what’s around you is such a useful tip, it doesn’t have to cost a fortune.” The small size of teacups and mugs makes them perfect for herbs and succulents – paint mismatched pots in a unifying colour, as above, to create the look of a matching set. “Watch out for over-watering plants in containers without drainage so they don’t become waterlogged!’ shares Roy Nicol, a Horticultural Consultant. “Just keep an eye on them and pour away excess water.” 5) Create A Gravel Path A stunning gravel path winding through a garden lawn If your garden is a boring square or rectangle of grass, consider making a gravel path to break it up, and add depth and interest. Perhaps your path could lead to a seating area or a vegetable garden at the bottom of your garden. Flowering perennials can also be added on the border of paths to add colour year after year. You can purchase gravel from garden centres, builders’ merchants or DIY stores. Creating a path is as simple as marking it out with stones, digging up the turf, laying landscape membrane to prevent weeds from growing through the gravel and filling it in with gravel. 6) Add Borders Garden borders make an ideal area to plant in Borders are a great way to create a professional, landscaped look in your garden. Use them to separate your lawn from a path, or to divide flower beds and veggie gardens. Borders can have the added benefit of stopping plants from spreading to unwanted areas. You can buy cheap wooden or plastic borders from DIY stores, which you can drive into the soil between your flower beds and lawn. Alternatively, make your own borders using rocks and stones or using a proprietary metal edging solution. 7) Plant Pretty, Affordable Flowers These colourful pansy flowers are loving garden life! An easy way to improve the appearance of your garden is to plant flowers, which will fill your space with colourful blooms during their flowering season. You can plant them in a container, so you can move them around and indoors during winter, or choose varieties that are hardy to the UK climate and plant them in the ground. “You can grow a mix of annuals, perennials and biennials from seed and see how those plants behave to save some pennies,” shares Garden Designer Kate Gould. “Go back to the basics.” Some good varieties to consider for this includes annuals such as violas, pansies or periwinkles. These ground-covering perennials come with the advantage that they smother weeds, meaning you can save yourself the time and money of having to spray and remove them. “Growing things from seed is a really good way to bulk up on the amount of plants you’re growing,” shares TV Presenter and Garden Designer Flo Headlam. “Taking cuttings and propagating is another way to do this but you do have to have space to do this. “You can get seeds from seed banks or community groups that often do seed swaps or exchanges. You could swap with neighbours too if they’re also planting things.” 8) Grow Herbs & Veggies Herbs can save money from your supermarket expenses Growing your own herbs and vegetables in your garden is not only highly rewarding and adds to the look of your garden, but it can also save you money on your food shopping during the summer months. “Grow your vegetables from seed,” says Kate. “Your plants will be much stronger, even though it’s going to take you longer.” Veggies can be grown in containers, or in the ground. There are a wide variety of vegetables which grow well in the UK, including peas, potatoes, onions, salad greens and runner beans – or if you’re short on space, why not create a herb garden, to provide basil for your pasta, chives for your homemade potato salad, or mint for your Mojitos! “If one of you friends is growing a particular type of vegetable, such as sweet corn, swap with them and give them, say, a tomato plant,” says Kate. “This can save you a lot of money if you bump up your crop this way.” 9) Paint Tin Cans Spotted tin cans painted and used as plant pots There’s really no need to spend money on plant pots – recycled tin cans, such as those used for fizzy drinks and baked beans, can also make excellent plant holders for small flowers and herbs. Paint them bright colours to create an attractive look, and punch holes in the sides for a string, which you can use to hang your new plant pots from a fence post or bracket – perfect for small spaces. “Before you throw anything away, ask yourself: could this have a use in my garden?,” advises Danny. “An empty can of beans could be used for planting seeds in, for example. “Try and avoid discarding things if you can or, if you haven’t got room for it, give it to somebody who can make use of it.” 10) Plant A Tree A crab apple bonsai tree grown outside in the UK “Rather than going for lots of plants, you could try going for a couple of big plants, like trees, so you get a bigger impact,” says Flo. Planting a tree in your garden and watching it grow can be an incredibly rewarding experience – not to mention it will help purify your air, provide a home for wildlife, and offer shade in the summer. You can purchase a sapling from a garden centre for a small cost. Some good types of native trees to grow in the UK include Ash, Hazel, Hawthorn and Silver Birch. For smaller gardens, there are varieties suited to container growth, such as the Malus sylvestris (crab apple bonsai tree) pictured, which provides attractive spring blossom and brightly coloured fruits in the autumn. 11) Create A Ladder Garden Step ladders can be recycled and saved from the tip! A step ladder can make a unique and stylish plant stand and add a focal point to your garden. If you haven’t got an unused one lying around, have a look online for people selling one in your area, or pick up a cheap one from a DIY store. To really make your ladder an attractive feature, paint it a bright colour using weatherproof exterior paint. Place a wooden plank between the corresponding rungs to create a shelf and add a plant pot or container filled with trailing flowers. 12) Make Tyre Planters Old tyres painted and used as planters Used tyres are another widely available and cheap (or free) resource that can be recycled into funky garden planters. Try spray painting them in bright or pastel colours, for a stylish look. Fill the centre with potting soil and plant your favourite shrub or flowering plant. “Try taking waste items and doing something creative with them to upcycle,” says Kim Stoddart, the Climate Change Gardener. “An old sink basin into a pond, a chipped vase into a windowsill planter and, of course, an old tyre – it feels good to take back waste from landfill one item at a time.” 13) Repurpose Old Clothes “If you’re feeling particularly adventurous, you can upcycle clothes,” shares Danny. “For example, take a pair of jeans that you don’t wear anymore. Tie a knot in the legs and then pack them full of soil. “Where the waist is, you can put some plants in and hang them up, perhaps from a fence.” Old shoes can also be used as planters whilst fabrics could make good ground cover over the winter. How Do I Change My Garden On A Budget? “My biggest tip for the garden is to stop buying stuff,” shares Sara Venn, the Founder of Edible Bristol. “If you have healthy soil, you don’t need to buy fertiliser or chemicals. If you look after your ecosystem, you won’t need to buy much at all.” Having said that, there are lots of ways to change your garden on a budget. Here are some of our top tips: Repaint old furniture with weatherproof exterior paint and use it outside. Make your own plant pots from recycled plastic bottles or tin cans. Source free or cheap wood pallets, to create garden seating or plant stands. Build your own fire pit from old bricks and paving slabs. Look for second-hand garden furniture in charity shops, and on online marketplaces, such as eBay, Gumtree and Facebook Marketplace. Shop around to find the best prices before purchasing plants and compost – check your local garden centre, and online. Choose a few small accessories, such as outdoor cushions or an outdoor rug, to easily and affordably transform your space. “Some seed-saving helps boost wildlife and can save you money,” says Kim. “If you choose to save seeds from plants that have displayed some resilience against extremes of weather, even better.” How Much Money Can You Save By Growing Your Own Vegetables? Growing your own vegetables will undoubtedly save you money – exactly how much will depend on a number of factors, including what vegetables you’re growing, cost of compost, how many seeds you plant, and how good a harvest you enjoy. To give you an example, it is possible to buy a packet of 5 potato seeds for around £1 and expect them to yield up to 45 potatoes. The same quantity of potatoes in a supermarket can cost upwards of £10 – so there are significant savings to be made. “As well as saving money, the taste of home-grown vegetables is like no other,” adds Roy. “Freshly dug new potatoes, sun-warmed tomatoes picked straight from the plant or sweetcorn cooked immediately after picking are all superb!”
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This Is How Pro Gardeners Grow Chrysanthemum Plants With Abundant Flowers
IN THIS GUIDE Overview How To Grow Chrysanthemum Ongoing Plant Care Common Issues References Chrysanthemum – or “mums”, as they are affectionately called – are one of the most popular flowers among gardeners, and rightly so! With their vibrant shades of violet, yellow, red, and orange, they are sure to add a burst of glorious colour to any garden. Not only will this beautiful plant bring luscious flowers to your garden, but choosing the right variety will prove to be a gift that keeps giving year after year. They are also fairly easy to grow. Overview Botanical Name Chrysanthemum Common Name Mums Plant Type Perennial / Annual Flower Native Area East Asia and North-East Europe Hardiness Rating H3-H4 Foliage Aromatic, pinnately lobed leaves Flowers Flower heads diverse in hue and form When To Sow April, May Flowering Months September, October When To Prune October Of all daisies, none have been bred and cultivated as much as the chrysanthemum, whose name means “Golden Flower”.1 Originally cultivated in China as a herb, these hardy plants bloom from September to frost and are accentuated by their deep green leaves. Being relatively inexpensive they have kept their place as a firm favourite in gardens around the world, up there with other big names like roses, tulips, and carnations. Are Chrysanthemums Annual Or Perennial? There are hundreds of different varieties of chrysanthemum, and people often ask whether they are annual or perennial. The short answer is both – it depends on the variety. However, annual varieties are more commonly grown as potted plants. Here is an annual variety known as Corn Marigold that I successfully grew from seed last year: C. segetum How To Grow Chrysanthemum When planting your Chrysanthemum, timing is everything. No doubt you want to fill your garden with their loaded blooms, and understanding what they need to thrive will give you the best chance to do just that. Planting Obviously it’s important to read about the exact flower you are planting, but as a general rule of thumb, planting perennial chrysanthemums is best done in the spring. This gives the flower a chance to establish itself over the months and adapt to its new home. Giving the root system time to grow stronger over the summer and autumn will help ensure your chrysanthemum survives the winter. Soil Requirements Chrysanthemums are best suited to well-draining soil with plenty of moisture. While in theory it is possible to grow them in hard dry soil, be aware that this will prevent the roots from properly establishing themselves. At the other end of the spectrum, wet boggy soil risks drowning the roots. To create the ideal soil for your Chrysanthemum, work the soil down to a depth of around 20-30cm. Follow this by adding some compost and mix it in to a depth of 5-10cm. When you squeeze the soil in your hand it shouldn’t clump together, it should just gently crumble. Spacing Spacing is extremely important when planting chrysanthemums. When you first plant them the garden might still feel quite bare, but don’t be tempted to plant them too closely together. By the autumn after the spring planting, your flowers could be up to three feet high! They are known to increase in size yearly as well, so keep this in mind and make allowances when planting. “I grow chrysanthemums in pots as I like to use them in a seasonal pot display in autumn,” says Colin Skelly, a Horticultural Consultant with previous experience at The Eden Project. “This will also allow you to control the soil conditions if your soil is heavy and to move the plant to favourable positions in the garden.” Sunlight Chrysanthemums love the sun. A nice little secret about this plant is that when it senses the change in light as evenings become darker in late summer, it will begin to set buds. Planting your chrysanthemums near artificial lights is a way to take advantage of this, and lengthen their bloom time. Ongoing Plant Care As we’ve mentioned, chrysanthemums are not difficult plants to grow and are pretty low-maintenance. That said, having a good care plan will ensure you really get the most out of them and will keep your garden bright and colourful. Watering As we said earlier, chrysanthemums thrive in well-drained soil with plenty of moisture. Watering this plant evenly and regularly throughout spring, summer, and autumn will keep it strong and healthy. We recommend watering in the morning to a depth of about 20cm, directing the water to the base of the plant. Pruning Chrysanthemums don’t actually need pruning, but “pinching” them throughout the growing season is important; this will allow your plants to branch out and flourish. In autumn, deadhead when necessary until the flower ceases to bloom. When your chrysanthemum dies back for winter, don’t cut it back. Allowing it to die back naturally will usually produce a much stronger and healthier plant the following year. Feeding To give your chrysanthemums the very best chance to flourish, fertilising is highly recommended. Feed them with a well-balanced, all-purpose fertiliser and do so consistently throughout the vegetative stages. This will prevent premature flowering and ultimately help your plants grow even larger and more luscious. Once your chrysanthemum flowers are in bloom, switch to a balanced, water-soluble fertiliser and apply monthly from early spring through summer. Common Issues Chrysanthemums really are a low maintenance plant, and although they are at risk from some diseases, they seldom have any trouble if you care for them well. Pests The main suspects to watch out for are mites, thrips, aphids, and earwigs. And slugs and snails of course! To deal with these mini-beasts use either insecticidal soap spray or a good strong blast from your hose to remove them from the foliage. Diseases Among the most common diseases to watch out for, fungal diseases are the easiest to spot and can be dealt with quickly. Keep an eye out for leaf spot, powdery mildew, rust, and moulds. There are a multitude of very effective anti-fungal sprays that can be bought from any gardening centre, although with some fungal problems, removing the parts of the plant that are infected is necessary to prevent it from spreading. Some of the pests mentioned above can also spread viral problems, many of which sadly have no cure – look for signs of stunted growth and yellowing foliage. Unfortunately if you determine the plant is suffering from a viral issue, you may need to destroy it. Sad though this is, keep in mind that it is very unlikely: providing you are caring for your chrysanthemum well, they rarely contract diseases. Chrysanthemums are a timeless favourite and welcome addition to any British garden. They are colourful, versatile, and surprisingly hardy for such a pretty flower. References 1. Chrysanthemum – The Golden Flower. (n.d.). Kadoorie Farm and Botanic Garden. Retrieved March 14, 2023, from https://www.kfbg.org/en/KFBG-blog/post/Chrysanthemum-The-Golden-Flower
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Grow Buddleja For Pollinators, But Beware - It Can Be Invasive
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Common Varieties How To Grow Buddleja Planting Guidelines Plant Care Common Problems References Buddleja – often spelt ‘buddleia’ – is a beautiful and commonplace plant in British gardens. Its splashes of purple, pink, and violet bring colour, and the sweet nectar brings butterflies and bees-a-plenty! In fact, this plant is often called the butterfly bush because they love it so much. There are tons of reasons to consider buddleja for your garden: It is versatile, hardy, and attractive. It comes in a veritable rainbow of colours. And the honey smell that is so enticing for pollinators is also quite appealing for a human nose! But this plant does come with a forewarning that it self-seeds profusely – sometimes to the point of invasiveness. If you grow Buddleja in your garden you can expect new plants to pop up regularly without intervention – so be warned that this is probably not a good option for a low-maintenance garden. Overview Botanical Name Buddleja Common Name(s) Buddleia / ‘Butterfly Bush’ Plant Type Shrub Native Area Asia, Africa and the Americas Hardiness Rating H6 Foliage Simple leaves, usually deciduous Flowers Panicles of tubular flowers, usually purple or white When To Sow April, May Flowering Months June, July, August When To Prune March, August, September This plant sits in the Scrophulariaceae family, alongside plants like Cape Fuchsia, Nemesia, Figwort, and others.1 There are several types, some deciduous and some evergreen. The most commonly grown species are Chinese by origin, but have made themselves firmly at home in British gardens since their introduction.2 Buddleja is popular for many reasons – we mentioned the fact that it is great for attracting butterflies: so much so that the RHS has chosen buddleja as one of its Plants for Pollinators. It also blooms in August, which can be a quiet month in flowering gardens. This makes it appealing to gardeners who want a garden that blooms for as much of the year as possible. Finding the right variety comes down to deciding which colour you want, the size of the space you have to work with, and a few other factors. Common Varieties There are varieties of buddleja ranging from compact to sprawling. Considering that size, colour, and shape vary between the different types, it’s worth familiarising yourself with each one before deciding which to plant. “There are some really novel buddlejas out there, among my favourites are Buddleja x weyeriana and Buddleja globosa, which have pom-poms of yellow flowers,” says Master Horticulturist Peter Lickorish. “The leaves are what will be on show for most of the year, so why not pick one with a unique leaf? “‘Moonshine’ has golden-green leaves, which contrast sharply with pink flowers, or there’s ‘Summer Skies’ with variegated foliage. “‘Summer Skies’ says it all in their name. For me, these plants are as much a part of summer’s joy as swallows, ice cream and beach holidays.” ‘Blue Horizon’ One of the most common types of buddleja (along with ‘Black Knight’). If you’ve seen Buddleja before, Buddleja davidii is the species you’ll most likely recognise. This is one of the popular cultivars of this species. It can grow up to about four metres in height, over a period of five to ten years. Alternate-Leaved Butterfly Bush This species, also known as Buddleja alternifolia, is known to be less invasive than some others. Gardeners who want to spend less time deadheading buddleja to prevent it seeding everywhere (more on that later) may be interested in this type. B. alternifolia will reach similar heights to blue horizon, but over a slightly longer timeframe. “This buddleja has slender leaves and its branches often hang downwards, meaning its character is a little like a weeping willow,” shares Peter. ‘Lochinch’ This hybrid of two types of buddleja is popular for its lavender colour, punctuated with orange dots. It will grow slightly smaller than ‘Blue Horizon’ and B. alternifolia: up to a height of around two and a half metres. ‘Nanho Blue’ or ‘Nanho Purple’ A pair of more compact cultivars, reaching slightly smaller dimensions than the Lochinch. They have bright blue or purple flowers, with orange centres on closer inspection. These varieties are more manageable than the big, sprawling ones! ‘Dartmoor’ Named after the adventurous escapade required to collect cuttings from a ravine in Dartmoor, this hardy buddleja has a more rugged look than some other varieties. It can grow up to 4m tall and has a nice magenta colour flecked with white. “Unlike most other buddlejas, its flower panicles are branched, so appear much larger,” says Peter. “They’re so heavy they pull the tips of branches downward!” The Butterfly Buddlejas Some buddleja varieties are named after butterflies with similar coloured wings to their flowers. ‘Marbled White’, ‘Adonis Blue’, and ‘Purple Emperor’ are three examples. It’s worth noting that while buddleja is great at attracting butterflies, they don’t use the plant as part of their breeding cycle. This means they’ll come to feed, then head elsewhere when it’s time to make the next generation of caterpillars. How To Grow Buddleja This plant doesn’t take much work. You can tell from the fact that it grows quite happily in untended land, alongside railway tracks, and other areas that aren’t actively gardened. In fact, most of the work you’ll be doing will be preventing your buddleja from growing too much, or from seeding itself all over your garden. Planting Guidelines Buddleja prefers being planted in fairly warm soil, so you’re best waiting until later spring months. If you’re growing from a container or planting out stronger saplings these can be planted up until the end of August. “Until they get their roots down, they will need a lot of watering, especially if planted in summer,” adds Peter. Before planting, ensure the soil is loose, and mix in some compost. Place your buddleja plant into a hole with a diameter about twice that of the pot you’re planting out of. The top of the roots should be level with the surface of the soil. Soil Requirements This plant favours dry soil, and will not thrive in soil that holds a lot of water, especially in winter. They usually prefer alkaline soil, so check the pH is suitable. Buddleja is a great choice if you have a coastal garden, thanks to its hardy nature and ability to grow in chalky soils. It can even tolerate salt-laden winds. Spacing Most varieties need to be planted about 2m apart to give them space to grow strongest. While this may seem like a lot of space when planting small shrubs, bear in mind just how voluminous this plant can get later in its lifecycle! Positioning To thrive, buddleja should be in a warm and sunny position in your garden. They need a few hours of sunlight each day, at least. This stimulates maximum nectar, making things as sweet as possible for the bees and butterflies. Plant Care As we’ve said, this is a fairly hardy plant that can look after itself quite comfortably. There are a few things to keep an eye on, though, to give the best chances of survival. Watering If rainfall is lower than two or three centimetres in summer, water your buddleja. Otherwise, the rain should take care of it. Remember this plant is drought-resistant, so will not need to be watered as much as some other plants in your garden. “Potted or recently planted buddlejas will rely much more on you for watering,” warns Peter. In spring, when the buddleja is growing freely, you can water it fairly frequently. Hold back in the autumn months though: this plant does not thrive in very wet conditions. Fertilising Mulching buddleja with manure or adding some organic fertiliser is a good way to increase the number of flowers for most plants, although some gardeners advise that for buddlejas, it may actually stimulate the growth of foliage instead. There is a difference of opinion on whether buddleja should be fertilised. If you do decide to, manure should be placed in autumn; fertiliser in late spring. Adding a new layer of compost or mulch each spring will keep moisture in and reduce the build-up of weeds. “Feeding is more important for potted plants, where a slow or controlled release fertiliser, often in granule form, will gradually break down and feed the plant,” shares Peter. Particularly big buddlejas will begin to look like trees, and their trunks may peel – if this happens, don’t panic! It’s normal. Common Problems This is a notably hardy plant. Particularly strong winds can blow branches off of larger buddleja plants, but aside from that, it will most likely keep itself out of harm’s way. “If it is exposed to cold winds, consider reducing long branches by a third before the worst of winter’s weather,” explains Peter. Here are a few other potential threats to look out for: Pests Buddleja is prone to several bugs, including mites, nematodes, and caterpillars. The mites, which are often red spider mites, are small and hard to see, but if you suspect your plant is infected, a good way to find out is to shake a branch and hold a sheet of paper below. If small orange or green mites fall onto the paper, then give the plant a good blast with a hose to remove them. “Damaged parts of the plant, usually showing a fine yellow mottling on the leaves, can be cut out,” explains Peter. If foliar nematodes take hold, they are harder to get rid of. Their damage can look similar, with yellow leaf blotches. The priority here becomes keeping the plant healthy and ensuring it gets all the nutrients it needs; take extra care not to overwater or get the leaves wet in this circumstance, as nematodes thrive in moist conditions. Plant Diseases Buddleja is also more prone to mildew when left damp for a long period of time – another reason not to overwater. If you find mildew on your plant, remove those stems. You’ll be able to tell by the leaves becoming yellow at the top, or by patches of white mildew on their underside. Root diseases can affect buddleja, and again the risk increases with overwatering. If you see small, yellow flowers, this could be why, or wilting during damp weather. Improving drainage is the first step: sometimes the problem will take care of itself; if not, applying a fungicide to the roots may help. It’s worth noting that while rare, these diseases can kill buddleja. The takeaway then? Take extra special care not to overwater this plant! References 1. The Figwort Family or Scrophulariaceae and their Uses. (2021, December 8). Wonderful Weed Weekly. Retrieved April 25, 2023, from https://wonderfulweedweekly.co.uk/the-figwort-family-or-scrophulariaceae-and-their-uses/ 2. The native range (provinces) of Buddleja davidii in China. (n.d.). Research Gate. Retrieved March 13, 2023, from https://www.researchgate.net/figure/The-native-range-provinces-of-Buddleja-davidii-in-China-are-shown-in-gray_fig2_226823556
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