Growing
Why You Should Grow Berberis (Barberry) As A Useful And Productive Garden Shrub
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Why Grow Berberis? Where To Grow Berberis Planting Berberis Plant Care Berberis Sawfly Cutting Back References There are a number of different types of Berberis that make excellent choices for UK gardens. Though they might not be the showiest of plants, these evergreen shrubs are extremely useful, both in the garden and potentially also for their yields in a productive system – and they can often be truly beautiful at certain times of the year. Overview Botanical Name Berberis Common Name(s) Barberry Plant Type Shrub Native Area Dependent On Variety Hardiness Rating Mostly H5 Foliage Evergreen Flowers Small yellow or orange flowers followed by dark berries When To Sow February, March, April, September, October, November Flowering Months April, May, June, July Berberis is the name given to a large genus of mostly evergreen shrubs that are found throughout many of the world’s temperate and sub-tropical regions.1 These plants are also commonly known as ‘barberry’. There are a number of different species within this genus, cultivars of several of which are common garden plants in the UK and in other similar climate zones. B. vulgaris Amongst those cultivars commonly grown as garden shrubs, there is a wide variety. There are taller growing species and shorter growing species, some spiny, some with ornamental leaves, flowers and berries. Why Grow Berberis? Berberis can be very useful shrubs for a range of reasons. They can be: Excellent hedgerow plants, creating thick and often spiny barriers, they can be used in wind-break plantings or as barriers for people or certain animals/ livestock. Suitable choices for planting in dappled or partial shade in a border or forest garden. Good for sites which experience maritime exposure. Suitable for planting in a range of different soil types including heavy clays, alkaline, neutral or acidic soils, and nutritionally poor soils as long as they are relatively moist. Great for wildlife-friendly planting schemes and for attracting native wildlife to the garden. The plants attract and feed bees and other pollinators when in flower. Birds like the berries – and a number of species will benefit from the shelter and habitats these shrubs can provide. Useful for providing humans with an edible yield. The barberries from a number of different Berberis can be eaten raw, dried or cooked and used in a range of preserves. Used to derive a yellow dye. (This is obtained from the roots and bark.) Attractive plants which provide visual interest through a large part of the year. Where To Grow Berberis All Berberis are, as mentioned above, relatively unfussy about where they are grown. However, for best results, they should usually be grown in moist yet relatively free-draining soil. You can use them to create a hedgerow, either a formal clipped hedge or a wilder and more natural hedge with mixed species. The latter is recommended for wildlife-friendly and eco-friendly garden design. You can also place Berberis at the back of a bed or border with any aspect, or even grow smaller and more compact Berberis shrubs in containers. Planting Most people will choose to purchase a Berberis shrub to place in their gardens. However, you can also propagate existing plants (perhaps in a friend or neighbour’s garden) by taking semi-ripe cuttings in the late summer or autumn. Cuttings should be taken in the usual way and planted out in their final growing positions once the root systems have begun to form. When planting out Berberis shrubs, make sure you dig a generous hole large enough to accommodate the root system. Add some home-made compost, leaf mould or other organic material into the planting hole to boost fertility. In areas where you feel a healthy fungal soil population may be lacking, it could also be a good idea to consider adding mycorrhizal fungi at this stage. Fill back in the hole, water generously, and mulch well around the shrub with organic matter. Berberis Plant Care Berberis are a great low-maintenance plant and usually require little care. They do not usually encounter many problems and once established, should not need regular watering unless the conditions are particularly dry. Berberis Sawfly One problem that can potentially arise is Berberis sawfly. Keep your eyes peeled for the small caterpillars and handpick these off the plants. Organic sprays are available, but are typically only effective at early larval stage. So picking off these by hand and staying alert is usually the best approach. Keep checking plants between April and October to stay on top of things. Act quickly if you see a few, as a bad infestation can decimate a hedge and leave it completely defoliated. Cutting Back The only other care that Berberis will typically require is pruning. In wilder gardens, you can largely leave these low-maintenance shrubs to their own devices. You can simply prune them once a year as desired to maintain their shape. If, however, you have a more formal garden and want a neat hedgerow, you will likely need to trim your Berberis twice a year. Remember that if you prune after flowering, the shrubs will not be able to produce their berries, so if you want to keep the fruit for yourself or for garden wildlife, give Berberis a trim only in the winter months. Berberis is a very rewarding plant to grow. Whether you grow it for environmental protection for other garden plants, for aesthetic evergreen appeal in shrubberies or garden borders, or as part of a perennial food-producing system, it can offer great value to a gardener. So why not consider adding some Berberis to your garden? References 1. Berberis. (n.d.). Kew Royal Botanic Gardens. Retrieved March 13, 2023, from https://powo.science.kew.org/taxon/urn:lsid:ipni.org:names:328526-2
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Grow Echium ‘Bugloss’ For Pollinators Says Professor Dave Goulson - Here's How
IN THIS GUIDE Overview How To Grow Echium Echium Plant Care Echium Varieties Common Problems References If you are looking for a plant that will make a real statement, then Echiums may be just what you are looking for. These striking plants come in an array of colours and vary in size and growing habit, meaning there is an echium for pretty much every garden style. From formal to the exotic, meadow to conservatory, these boastful, sun-loving plants provide beauty, structure and texture, and are sure to turn heads. A well-placed echium will offer a real taste of splendour to your garden and, thanks to their nectar-rich blooms, they are irresistible to butterflies and other essential pollinators, including the ever-dwindling honey bee. These bountiful beauties thrive in hot, dry conditions and, where many plants would struggle, echiums will remain completely unperturbed by sudden heatwaves in the summer months. With echiums’ tolerance of rising temperatures, you can at least rest in the knowledge that they are giving the bees some much-needed help. Overview Botanical Name Echium Common Name(s) Bugloss (Vipers Bugloss etc.) Plant Type Annual / Biennal Flower Native Area North Africa, Mainland Europe, Central Asia and the Macaronesian Islands Hardiness Rating Various Foliage Rough, hairy, oblanceolate leaves Flowers Blue/purple or pink/red flower spikes (depending on variety) When To Sow April, May Flowering Months June, July, August There are 68 species of echiums which includes biennials (which complete their life cycle in two years), perennials (which die down in winter) and shrubs (which provide year-round foliage). Echiums can be found in suitable climates worldwide with the tallest of the varieties, which can grow up to 5m in height, hailing from the Canary Islands.1 These varieties need to grow in similar conditions that the islands provide but they also self-seed prolifically and will quite happily colonise your garden if given the opportunity. How To Grow Echium From the varieties above you have probably gathered that they require moist, well-drained soil and a sheltered sunny site when it comes to planting. “Echium vulgare and E. amoenum are hardy in most UK conditions but E. pininana and E. ‘Pink Fountain’ are less so and will only survive outside in milder coastal conditions or if protected from frost by horticultural fleece,” shares Colin Skelly, a Horticultural Consultant. They will tolerate partial shade, but grow best in full sun. Growing From Seed Echiums can be grown from seed, and you should get sowing in late spring or early summer. Once the seedlings have germinated, you can transplant them into the garden. To help the plants establish, water them once planted. Watering Once established, echiums are robust and drought tolerant so will not require frequent watering, however, in hotter months they may require a little extra help. The aim of the game is to keep the soil around them moist, but not soggy. If you are growing your echiums in pots or containers, then they will rely on you to provide them with water. Be sure to choose containers with adequate drainage holes to allow excess water to drain away freely. Echium Plant Care Echiums really do tend to take care of themselves. If you are growing a shrubby variety, you can cut off the flower spike after flowering and give the plant a little trim to encourage the plant to maintain its shape and avoid it becoming straggly. E. candican ‘Pride of Madeira’ Deadheading is not necessary, but as previously mentioned, it can help to extend the flowering period. Echium Varieties When it comes to echiums, part of the fun is choosing the right one for your garden. The varieties vary wildly, and all have something a little different to offer, and different species lend themselves to different planting styles. If you aren’t very familiar with this plant, then choosing the right echium for your garden can feel a bit overwhelming. We anticipated this and have put together a list of some of our favourite varieties to help you choose the perfect echium for you. E. vulgare E. vulgare, or viper’s bugloss, is a biennial wildflower with bristly foliage from which erect leafy stems emerge in early summer producing spikes of beautiful bell-shaped flowers in shades of violet, blue or purple. “Viper’s bugloss is a really fantastic native flower that bees love,” shares Dave Goulson, Bee Ecologist. Growing to a height of around 75cm and with a 50cm spread, this impressive variety is a magnet for essential pollinators making it a great candidate for a little wildlife or small meadow garden. It’s also very suitable for sunny mixed borders and provides early summer colour, blooming from June to August. E. vulgare thrives in full sun, in moderately fertile, well-drained soil; deadheading regularly will encourage extended flowering. After the flowering period, you can leave the stems uncut and this plant will self-sow freely around the garden. E. ‘Pink Fountain’ The breathtaking E. ‘Pink Fountain’ is arguably one of the most lusted-after varieties, growing to an impressive height of up to 2m and with a spread of around 1m. This variety is known for the wide tapered spike of flowers that it produces: up to 35cm wide, and in a dazzling pink. The plant basically acts as a lighthouse for bees, too, drawing in these important pollinators. ‘Pink Fountain’ is a hybrid, too, giving it the most striking characteristics of E. wildpretii and E. pininana, varieties which sport red and blue flowers respectively. In the first year you’ll enjoy a rosette of greyish-green leaves, replaced in the second year by the fountain of flowers that lend the variety its name. This species of echium works its magic best in moist, well-drained soil, in full sun to partial shade. E. amoenum ‘Red Feathers’ This fascinating, architectural echium is a compact, short-lived perennial which a dark green mound of evergreen leaves from which feathery plumes of russet-red flowers emerge in spring and all through summer. Growing to just 10cm in height and 8cm in spread, this variety of echium is perfect for filling gaps in borders and will also grow well in a pot or container, giving your patio or decking a taste of the exotic. E. amoenum ‘Red Feathers’ prefers moist, well-drained soil or compost and should be planted in a spot where it can enjoy full sun. Be sure to deadhead the blooms to encourage repeat flowering. E. pininana ‘Snow Tower’ Hailing from the Canary Islands, the E. pininana is easily the most recognisable variety and has been given the Royal Horticulture Society’s prestigious Award of Garden Merit. In the first year, this brilliant biennial forms a low rosette of hairy, silver spear-shaped leaves and then, during the second year, it hoists up its splendid spike, loaded with gorgeous, blue flowers. Growing to a height of around 1.8m and with a spread of 90cm, this superb specimen will thrive in a sunny sheltered spot in moist well-drained soil and is a perfect addition to the backs of garden borders. Common Problems Although echiums are generally disease-free, there are a few pesky pests to watch out for. Slugs & Snails Happily, it’s easy to see if you have a snail or slug problem thanks to the crime scene they leave behind with their long trails of silver slime. Slugs and snails can be combatted with pellets or, if you are unphased by these gross little opportunists, you can simply pick them off the plant and dispose of them. Caterpillars Although not a frequent problem, caterpillars can be quite partial to echiums. Like slugs and snails, they leave a tell-tale trail behind them, and in their case, it’s in the form of holes where they have chomped through the plant. There are lots of home remedies when it comes to tackling caterpillars, but one of the easiest ways to deal with them is to make the area around the plants they are attacking more attractive to birds. Simply spread some seeds around the base of the echium and the birds will visit and happily take the caterpillars off your hands! Elegant echiums are real statement pieces and can truly elevate your garden’s aesthetics, providing interest, beauty and whimsy. With so many varieties to choose from, you will have no trouble finding the perfect echium for you, whatever the size or style of your garden. References 1. Echium pininana. (n.d.). Kew Royal Botanic Gardens. Retrieved March 15, 2023, from https://powo.science.kew.org/taxon/urn:lsid:ipni.org:names:115832-1
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What Are Air Plants? Here Are Some Common Tillandsia Types And Growing Tips
IN THIS GUIDE What Are Air Plants? The Life Cycle Of Air Plants Air Plant Varieties Where To Grow Air Plants Caring For Air Plants Troubleshooting Common Problems Growing Air Plants At Home References Air plants seemingly survive on air alone – but do in fact require more than just air to keep them alive. You might imagine when you see these unusual plants hanging in someone’s home, or mounted on a wall, that they are miracles of nature. But contrary to what some people seem to believe – air plants don’t really get all they need from the air. It is true that they do not need soil to grow, but there are other things they do require. In this article you’ll learn more about these fascinating plants and how to grow and care for them in your home. What Are Air Plants? First of all, let’s begin by talking about what air plants are. When we talk about air plants, we are talking about a large genus of epiphytic or lithophytic plants that grow on trees or other plants without doing them any harm, or on rocks.1 The genus Tillandsia contains around 650 species of evergreen, perennial plants in the Bromeliaceae family.2 Many of those species can be grown as air plants inside your home. They are called air plants but you should not make the mistake of thinking that the name means that they only need air to grow. The Life Cycle Of Air Plants Air plants have interesting and varied foliage. Flowering But what you may not know is that air plants will only flower once in their lives. The duration of the blooms can vary considerably depending on the species, and can last from a few days to a few months. The blooms can be in a wide range of colours, from pink to purple to red. Flowering might be the pinnacle of the plants’ life cycles – but it also marks the beginning of the end. Once the plant has flowered, it will eventually die. Reproduction The good news is that before it does so, around the time of flowering, it will reproduce. Depending on the species, an air plant will send out baby air plants, known as ‘pups’ just before, during or after flowering. These baby plants, or ‘pups’ are clones of the parent – they will grow eventually to the same size as their parent plant. The ‘pups’ are attached to the parent plant, and early in their growth, are receiving nutrients from it. You can separate the pups from the parent plant but only once these have reached around one-third to one-half the size of the parent. Depending on the species, there may be between 2 and 8 of these new plants, so over time, while your original air plants will die, you will be able to increase your air plant stock. Air Plant Varieties Now that you understand a little more about what air plants are and their lifecycle, you may be keen to get some for yourself. But which air plants could you choose? As mentioned above, there are around 650 species of Tillandsia to choose from. Here are just some of the most interesting options to consider: T. ionantha One of the easiest and most popular air plants to grow. T. maxima Relatively large air plants with big impact. T. cyanea Unlike other air plants this one, the ‘Pink Quill Plant’ can actually be grown in soil as well as without it. T. aeranthos bergeri Popular for its bright blooms in spring. T. bulbosa Known for its tentacle-like leaves curving out from the bulbous root. T. loliacea Teeny tiny air plants that never grow larger than around an inch and a half tall. T. fasciculata Commonly cultivated air plants with hundreds of varieties and hybrids. Where To Grow Air Plants Air plants are commonly grown indoors, but with many air plants it is theoretically also possible to grow them outdoors over the summer months before moving them indoors in the early autumn. Most growers, however, will grow them indoors. And it is increasingly popular to grow them as part of an interior design scheme, often alongside other succulents, cacti and other house plants. They are commonly grown in hanging arrangements, or under glass in terrarium type displays. The important things to think about when deciding where and how to grow/ display your air plants are: Temperature Light Water Ventilation You can find out more about these various different needs and how to make sure you meet them below: Caring For Air Plants Caring for air plants is relatively straightforward and easy. But you do need to make sure you get things right when it comes to the four categories mentioned above. Temperature Requirements The first thing to remember is that air plants require relatively warm temperatures. They need the temperatures to be above 12°C at all times, and will enjoy conditions around typical room temperature. They can tolerate higher temperatures too; as long as the relative humidity is high they can survive in temperatures up to around 30°C. Light Requirements Light levels are also very important. You need to consider where air plants are placed carefully to make sure that they are getting enough light, but are not going to be scalded by direct sunlight – especially during the hottest portions of the day. Tillandsia need bright but indirect and diffuse light to thrive. Light shade from direct sun is important, especially if your plants are growing under glass. Rooms with south or east-facing glazing can be fine, but perhaps with some netting over the window to provide some gentle shading. West-facing rooms may not be ideal because of the hot sun that can shine in later in the day. North-facing rooms may be too gloomy and dark – but an air plant may still be fine if positioned close to a north-facing window. How much light your air plants will tolerate is directly linked to how humid the conditions are. “My own experience of growing air plants has been through trial and error,” says Horticulturist Colin Skelly. “My sitting room is too dry, my bedroom too bright, but my bathroom seems to be just right – humid but with good airflow and east facing. “The bath and sink are also handy for misting and immersion (but still a distance from the water butt for rainwater!). “Perseverance, observation and routine are key but once you’ve nailed the location and watering frequency, the fun begins!” Generally, if your home is high in humidity, air plants will cope with more light. It is important to bear in mind how much light air plants are getting when working out water requirements. Water Requirements Soaking air plants By far the most common mistake when it comes to air plants is getting in wrong when it comes to providing water for your plants. The amount of water required will definitely vary depending on the temperatures and light levels, and the atmospheric humidity in your home. Between spring and autumn, it is best to immerse air plants in rainwater for 5-10 minutes around 2-3 times a week. It is better to use rainwater and not tap water, especially in hard water areas, since sodium bicarbonate can block the trichomes on the plants – which prevents them from absorbing moisture and nutrients. Avoid watering plants at all if the temperatures drop to 12°C as they can remain wet for too long. It is important to make sure that the plants are positioned so that they can easily shed excess water. And it is vital to make sure that they dry out fully between immersions, ideally remaining wet for no more than 1-3 hours after their soaking. In warm conditions, or when growing in closed terrariums or cloches, misting plants between immersions can help to prevent dehydration. But this does not alone provide enough water, so you will need to immerse the air plants as well. Make sure you mist around plants to raise humidity uniformly around the plants, rather than spraying the plants themselves and causing water to sit within them. Always immerse in water or mist early in the morning to make sure the plants dry fully before nightfall. Ventilation Requirements While many people grow air plants in enclosed spaces, it is important to note that air plants evolved in areas with good airflow, and will do best and remain healthiest when they are placed in a reasonably well-ventilated position. If you are growing air plants under glass containers, remember that this will create a micro-climate around your air plants. Less air circulation means a longer drying time, and typically higher humidity, so you will likely need to mist less frequently. Troubleshooting Common Problems Overwatering The most common problem for air plants is overwatering, or allowing water to remain for too long on your plants. Unfortunately, if you overwater, it will often be too late to save it. If you see the base of the plant turning brown or black and leaves are falling out from the centre, then it is likely that it has begun to rot and cannot be saved. Underwatering A plant may also become dehydrated – not only if it is watered infrequently but also if hard water is used over an extended period. If the plant starts shedding leaves, this may be a result of stress due to dehydration, but it can also be a sign of rot. Brown or bleached leaves are usually a sign that the plant has been exposed to too much direct sunlight and has overheated. Providing more shade and raising the humidity around your plants can prevent further scorch and may allow your air plants to recover. Growing Air Plants At Home Air plants can be very interesting and unusual plants to grow. They can add something to your home’s interior décor and allow you to learn more about these plants and their botanical features. You do have to be careful about temperatures, light levels, watering and ventilation. However, if you get these things right then you should find that air plants are relatively easy and hassle-free additions to your indoor garden. References 1. Common Epiphytes and Lithophytes of BELIZE. (2023, November). Branch Botanical Garden. Retrieved March 9, 2023, from https://fieldguides.fieldmuseum.org/sites/default/files/rapid-color-guides-pdfs/1179_belize_common_epiphytes_and_lithophytes.pdf 2. Crawford, B. C. (n.d.). Air Plants—A Trendy Plant with a Long Story! Rutgers University. Retrieved March 9, 2023, from https://njaes.rutgers.edu/plant-of-the-month/tillandsia.php
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Succulent Growers On Their 6 Step Propagation Routine: 'Most Grow From Leaf Pullings'
IN THIS GUIDE How Succulents Are Propagated How To Propagate Succulents 1) Allowing Cuttings / Offsets To Form A Callus 2) Choose A Suitable Potting Mix 3) Place Cuttings / Offsets In Their New Containers 4) Wait For New Root Systems To Form 5) Pot Up Your New Plants 6) Place Plants In Their Final Growing Positions Learning how to propagate succulents at home means reducing the number of succulents you need to buy. Making new plants from your existing ones will save you money, growing your collection for free. It can also help you to avoid bringing extra plastic pots or packaging into your home. The more you can take a DIY approach and do things yourself at home, the closer you can move to a truly sustainable, zero-waste lifestyle. In this guide, we will take you step-by-step through the simple process involved in propagating succulents. How Succulents Are Propagated Most succulent plants are propagated through cuttings or through offsets. The type of cutting that is taken varies depending on which succulents you are dealing with. Sometimes leaf cuttings are taken, and sometimes stem cuttings – the particular plants you select will determine which of these you will take. Often, taking a succulent cutting will simply involve taking a clean and well-sharpened blade and snipping off some of the fleshy leaves, perhaps along with a portion of stem. While you may well be able to take more than one cutting at one time from a mature plant, it is best to make sure you do not take too many portions of the plant at one time, as this may weaken or put too much stress on the original. “Most succulents grow from leaf pullings,” says Darren, from Pugh’s Cacti, a specialist nursery. Sometimes, things are even simpler and smaller offsets will naturally develop close to the mature plant. This is true, for example, for succulents which form rosettes, like aloe and echeveria. In these cases, propagation is simply a matter of carefully cutting these away from the mature plant. “Succulents are among the easiest group of plants to propagate,” shares Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly. “Because they are adapted to handle dry conditions, they are less prone to drying out than many cuttings. In fact, the risk to cuttings is far more from overwatering.” Houseleek offsets How To Propagate Succulents Though propagating most succulents really could not be easier, there are a few steps to take to make sure that your cuttings or offsets root successfully. So let’s take a look at the simple process, step by step – 1) Allowing Cuttings / Offsets To Form A Callus “Cacti and succulents will produce offshoots,” explains Darren. “These can be detached from the main plant easily but will need to be dried for at least 7 days first.” As Darren explains, as soon as you have cut and gathered your leaf/stem cuttings or little offsets, you cannot just plonk these into soil or a growing medium right away. Instead, you have to wait for the cut section of the succulent sections to form a callus. In other words, you need to wait for it to harden or dry and scab over. “Propagation of cacti and succulents is generally simple,” explains Peter Bint, the Society Secretary of the British Cactus and Succulent Society. “When you remove a cutting from a plant it is essential to allow the cut surface to heal and harden. This is done by placing the cutting in a dry airy place for about a week.” A callus over the wound protects it from rot or disease – it is important to let the hardened callus form before your succulent cuttings are exposed to water or dampness. Place your cuttings on a sunny windowsill or another light and dry place for a week or so before you proceed to the next step in the process. “The cut section needs to callus over and dry for a minimum of 7 days to allow the cut to fully dry and prevent mould,” says Darren. “Most cacti and succulents are happy to sit this way for some time. In the nursery, we have had cuttings sit this way for 12 months and still grow once potted. “Cuttings should be taken in summer to allow the cut to heal quickly as mould can develop. “If this happens, recut and allow it to dry again. Dipping the cut end in cinnamon can help prevent mould from forming.” 2) Choose A Suitable Potting Mix It is important to choose a potting mix specifically designed for succulents, with good drainage. “Prepare the compost you intend to root the plant into,” says Peter. “This should be reasonably sandy and coarse. Do not use a peat mixture.” The type of container you choose is also important, as that can determine how successfully water will escape and how warm it will be. 3) Place Cuttings / Offsets In Their New Containers “Place the soil in the pots you intend to use, then allow the soil to soak up so water until it is moist,” explains Peter. “After, you can put your cuttings into this mix.” As soon as your succulent cuttings have developed their callus, you can next place them on top of a suitable potting mix in your chosen pots or containers. Place these in a suitable location. Make sure you take into account the temperature, light and other environmental needs of the particular succulents you have chosen to propagate. “Place your succulent in a light place that is shaded from direct sunlight,” says Peter. “Make sure the soil is kept slightly moist so that new roots have the ability to take in moisture.” 4) Wait For New Root Systems To Form After you have placed your new succulents into the top of your containers, on the suitable potting mix you have chosen for them, you should water a little, around once a week (depending on variety) and wait patiently for little roots to develop. The length of time that it will take for succulent cuttings to root will depend at least in part on which variety of succulent you are propagating, as Peter shares: “Rooting can be anything from a couple of weeks to six months according to the species. “Succulents are usually quicker to root than cacti.” With some cuttings, you will know that they have rooted successfully when you pull very gently on the cutting and it does not come away but is held in the growing medium to a degree. Sometime later, you may see new leaves forming on the cuttings, and the withering of the original leaf. Once the original leaf has withered, you can remove it. 5) Pot Up Your New Plants Once your succulent cutting has formed some roots, you can pot up each of your new plants. Be sure to place each plant into a pot or container filled with the same medium in which it was previously grown, as this will lessen any type of transplantation shock and reduce the amount of stress on your plants. Watering and environmental needs will of course vary depending on which succulents you are growing. However, as a general rule of thumb, succulents in pots should be placed somewhere where they receive indirect but relatively bright light which is received for at least six hours each day. And should be watered weekly, taking care to be light-handed and consistent. 6) Place Plants In Their Final Growing Positions After they have been left to establish in their new pots or containers for a few weeks, your succulents should be rooted and growing strong. At this point, you can consider placing them in their final growing location – whether in larger containers, inside your home or outside, in an undercover growing area such as a greenhouse or polytunnel, or in garden beds or borders. “Many succulents can happily be grown outdoors when frosts have finished,” Peter shares. “They will need some protection from excessive rain and wind. They need to return to an indoor environment by mid-September. “Succulents are much easier to grow in a greenhouse or conservatory than on a windowsill. They can also be grown on the balcony of a flat in the warmer months.” Slightly different processes are followed (and different cuttings taken) for different succulents. But as you can see from the above, it is rather easy and straightforward to make new succulents from those you have already grown. So as soon as you have purchased your first few succulents, you can easily grow your collection over time.
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These Succulent Nurseries And Societies Have Shared Their 16 Favourite Types To Grow
IN THIS GUIDE Expert-Chosen Varieties About Our List 1) Sedums 2) Sempervivums 3) Senecio 4) Aeonium 5) Echeveria 6) Aloe 7) Agave 8) Crassula 9) Pachyphytum 10) Gasteria 11) Faucaria 12) Graptopetalum 13) Graptoveria 14) Haworthia 15) Lithops 16) Kalanchoe References Succulents might not be native to the UK, but they can still often be great choices for British homes and gardens. Succulents are simply plants that have thickened leaves where water is stored – a natural adaptation that helps these plants survive in dry, arid conditions. In this guide, we’ve collaborated with FIVE expert succulent growers to discover some of their favourite varieties, including: Daniel Jackson – Owner of the plant nursery Ottershaw Cacti. Tom Adkin & Giulia Consolandi – Co-Owners of Piccolo Plant Nursery. Peter Bint – Society Secretary for The British Cactus & Succulent Society. Niamh Mullally – Owner of Southwold Succulent Co. Richard M. Wiedhopf – President of the Tucson Cactus And Succulent Society. Since they have good tolerance to drought, they can cope with under-watering very well. So they can be a great choice for gardeners with less time on their hands, or those who are rather forgetful when it comes to tending their plants. Expert-Chosen Varieties “It is hard to choose, but I do love big echeverias for their beautiful flowers and all aeoniums for their colour and shape,” Daniel from Ottershaw Cacti says. “I like to collect seeds from these plants and cultivate my own pure and hybrid plants. I have managed to successfully cross a few aeoniums to create 6 of my own Hybrids to date. Aeonium arboreum “We entered our own Aeonium ‘Jubilee’ into the RHS Plant of the year competition at the Chelsea Flower Show last year and were finalists! “The Queen even bought a few for her own garden in Sandringham. It was a real highlight and a proud moment for us.” Other Aeonium lovers, Tom Adkin and Giulia Consolandi discuss why they love this succulent: “Anything in the aeonium family is our favourite, as these plants have such a wide variety of colour, hybrids and variety of structure that make them fantastic plants. “They can also be outside for most of the year, but will need winter protection depending on where you are. “We simply put them in our tunnels over winter, keep them dry and fleece them when frost or very low temperatures are due.” Peter Bint, Society Secretary from the British Cactus and Succulent Society, finds it hard to pick a favourite. “Favourite plants are a movable feast and can vary month by month,” he shares. Aloe maculata “Some people like to grow small-growing plants, whilst others like the challenge of finding plants they can grow permanently in their garden. Then, some people discover African succulents and that’s it for them. “There are caudiciform plants that provide a challenge. Exposing their tuberous roots exposes a completely different beauty. Some grow in spring and summer, but there are some, like Dioscuri, that you cannot be sure when they will be growing. “I’ve had specimens that start to grow in August and don’t stop till the following April. Others might wait til October to start.” So, what is Peter’s current favourite succulent? Mesembryanthemum cordifolium “My present joy is the Aizoaceae family, as it is truly fascinating,” shares Peter. Niamh Mullally is the Owner of Southwold Succulent Co and has been growing succulents for over 20 years. “One of my favourites is Delosperma ‘Fire Wonder’, which is from the Wheels of Wonder series,” Niamh shares. Delosperma ‘Fire Wonder’ “This succulent originates from Japan and is used there on green roofs for the maximum flowering period. It is drought-tolerant and low-maintenance. “Masses of deep orange daisies from May to the first frosts are a sight to behold and keep our bees fed all summer long.” From the Tucson Cactus And Succulent Society, Richard Wiedhopf is less conclusive about his favourite type of succulent: “I’ve never met a succulent plant I didn’t like. Echeveria “My favourite succulents are the ones that grow to maturity and flower. It is the only real proof of success and gives me a feeling of real accomplishment.” If, like Richard, you’re still unsure what your favourite might be, don’t worry – we have a longer list of options for you below. About Our List First of all, the list below is a list of only succulents, and we have chosen (to narrow things down) not to include cacti and bromeliads. These are sometimes classified as succulents – but some horticultural experts prefer to place them in different categories. If you are looking for low-maintenance plants, these other categories could also be excellent plants to consider. One other thing to mention is that only some of the plants in the list below will be suitable for growing outdoors in the UK. When choosing a succulent, be sure to take into account whether you will be growing indoors or out, and the needs of the particular plant you are considering. Remember, while succulents all share certain characteristics (especially drought tolerance) they come from often very different areas, and their other requirements can differ considerably. Echeveria ‘Perle von Nurnberg’ Discovering the characteristics of climate and terrain within a succulent’s typical native range can help you work out what it will need in terms of environmental conditions. We’ve listed the succulent options under various genus’ of succulent plants, but there are several great options within some of these categories. Without further ado then, let’s take a look at some of the succulents you could grow: 1) Sedums GENUS SIZE: ~600 Species HARDINESS RATING: H7 TYPICALLY GROWN: OUTDOORS PREFERRED ASPECT: FULL SUN WATERING: INFREQUENT Sedums are common succulents, used both as houseplants and for outdoor gardens in the UK. There are a huge range of sedums to choose from, all of which can be great for edging a dry bed or border, using in a rock garden or wall, or in the creation of a drought-tolerant green roof. Consider, for example: S. dasyphyllum S. album S. acre S. reflexum One other succulent not included on this list but also worth thinking about is purslane. Purslane Purslane is often viewed as a common weed, but this is a succulent rather similar to sedums, with similar benefits. What you might not know is that purslane (Portulaca oleracea) is also an edible plant.1 So it is well worthwhile giving this ‘weed’ some space in your garden. 2) Sempervivums GENUS SIZE: ~30 Species HARDINESS RATING: H7 TYPICALLY GROWN: INDOORS OR OUTDOORS PREFERRED ASPECT: FULL SUN WATERING: INFREQUENT INDOORS; NOT REQUIRED OUTDOORS Like sedums, there is a wide range of sempervivums that can be grown outdoors in suitable conditions. These are another type of succulent which are excellent for the creation of low-maintenance planting schemes, bed edging or green roofs. 3) Senecio GENUS SIZE: ~1,400 Species HARDINESS RATING: TYPICALLY H4-H5 TYPICALLY GROWN: INDOORS OR OUTDOORS PREFERRED ASPECT: FULL SUN WATERING: INFREQUENT INDOORS; NOT REQUIRED OUTDOORS Senecio rowleyanus (commonly known as the ‘String of Beads’ plant), is a well-known houseplant and a great houseplant succulent to consider here in the UK. Its strings of modified succulent leaves really do look like strings of green beads, and these plants look especially good in hanging containers which show the trailing stems off to full advantage. Other Senecios can also make good houseplants – such as, for example, S. serpens and S. radicans. S. serpens S. radicans 4) Aeonium GENUS SIZE: ~40 Species HARDINESS RATING: H1C TYPICALLY GROWN: INDOORS PREFERRED ASPECT: FULL SUN WATERING: INFREQUENT Aeoniums can be show-off succulents with a range of interesting colours and forms.2 One dramatic option is Aeonium ‘Zwartkop’ which is a shrubby plant with rosettes of shiny succulent leaves that are lime green in the middle and redding, purplish, almost black to the outer sides. A. ‘Zwartkop’ You can grow it in a pot or a sunny border outside in summer. Aeonium arboreum is another attractive option which is also known as the ‘Irish Rose’. A. arboreum 5) Echeveria GENUS SIZE: ~150 Species HARDINESS RATING: TYPICALLY H2 TYPICALLY GROWN: INDOORS PREFERRED ASPECT: FULL SUN WATERING: INFREQUENT Echeveria elegans (pictured above) is just one example of an excellent succulent within this group. Most commonly, this plant, which is also called ‘Mexican snowball’ is grown as a houseplant. It can also be used in summer bedding displays before it is brought indoors over the winter months. These attractive succulents come in a wide variety – they flower in summer but are mostly known for their amazing foliage.3 Echeveria ‘Blue Frills’ is one very attractive cultivar to consider. E. ‘Blue Frills’ 6) Aloe GENUS SIZE: ~400-600 Species HARDINESS RATING: VARIES TYPICALLY GROWN: INDOORS OR OUTDOORS PREFERRED ASPECT: Typically Full Sun; Some Will Burn (Turn Red) In Direct Sun WATERING: INFREQUENT A wide range of Aloes can work very well for UK growers, but they do need to be kept frost-free over the winter months. One of the most common (and useful) options is Aloe vera. It is most commonly grown as a houseplant but can also potentially be kept in a polytunnel or greenhouse. Aloe vera is a useful houseplant to grow because it can provide a yield of gel for multiple purposes.4 Other aloes to grow include Aloe rauhii and Aloe aristata. A. rauhii A. aristata The latter is also potentially suitable for growing outdoors as it is a much hardier type. 7) Agave GENUS SIZE: ~200 Species HARDINESS RATING: H2 TYPICALLY GROWN: INDOORS PREFERRED ASPECT: FULL SUN WATERING: INFREQUENT Though it is native to parts of the South-Western US and Mexico, Agave americana can be a good choice for a southern UK garden. As long as it is in a relatively low-rainfall area, it can potentially be grown outdoors in well-draining soil all year round. In most parts of the UK, however, this plant is better for indoors growing – at least over the winter months. 8) Crassula Crassula ovata ‘Gollum’ GENUS SIZE: ~200 Species HARDINESS RATING: H2 TYPICALLY GROWN: INDOORS PREFERRED ASPECT: FULL SUN / PART SHADE WATERING: INFREQUENT The ‘Jade Tree’, Crassula ovata is another great choice, though really only as a houseplant. This plant is also sometimes known as ‘friendship tree’, ‘money plant’ or lucky plant’. It is one of the few succulents that can cope with a little shade, so can cope inside a room with a little less bright light. Two interesting cultivars are ‘Gollum’ with its thin, tubular leaves, and ‘Hobbit’ which has larger leaves with a less tubular appearance. C. ovata ‘Hobbit’ Another interesting Crassula is C. marnieriana which is another great houseplant. C. marnieriana It has long graceful stems that look kind of like caterpillars, and ivory-coloured flowers. 9) Pachyphytum GENUS SIZE: ~30 Species HARDINESS RATING: H2 TYPICALLY GROWN: INDOORS PREFERRED ASPECT: PART SHADE WATERING: INFREQUENT Pachyphytum is a fleshy succulent with large chalk-dusted leaves that look a little like stones. This is another good succulent to grow as a houseplant in homes that are a little less bright and sunny, as it can cope with partial to full shade. 10) Gasteria GENUS SIZE: ~130 Species HARDINESS RATING: H2 TYPICALLY GROWN: INDOORS PREFERRED ASPECT: PART SHADE WATERING: RARELY Gasteria batesiana is another interesting succulent to consider growing indoors. It has rough, pointy succulent leaves that grow close together forming dense clumps of offsets. If you have one of these plants, it is easy to propagate to make more. 11) Faucaria GENUS SIZE: ~30 Species HARDINESS RATING: H2 TYPICALLY GROWN: INDOORS PREFERRED ASPECT: FULL SUN WATERING: INFREQUENT Faucaria tigrina, known as ‘Tiger’s Jaw’ has small green leaves with spikes along the edges that make them look, as the name suggests, like tiny tiger’s jaws. When well cared for they can also produce yellow flowers in the autumn. 12) Graptopetalum GENUS SIZE: ~25 Species HARDINESS RATING: H2 TYPICALLY GROWN: INDOORS PREFERRED ASPECT: FULL SUN WATERING: INFREQUENT The stunning Graptopetalum superbum has amazing panicles of flowers as well as attractive purple, frosted foliage. This subspecies is hardy to -3°C, so it can be grown outdoors all year round in milder regions. 13) Graptoveria GENUS SIZE: ~20 Species HARDINESS RATING: H4 TYPICALLY GROWN: INDOORS PREFERRED ASPECT: FULL SUN WATERING: INFREQUENT Some Graptopetalum have been bred with echeverias to produce hybrid plants known as Graptoverias. ‘Fred Ives’ has dense purple and pinkish-tinged leaves and when left out in the sun, the leaves can change colour and turn a range of different shades. G. ‘Fred Ives’ Yellow flowers sometimes bloom in the summer months. 14) Haworthia GENUS SIZE: ~40 Species HARDINESS RATING: H2 TYPICALLY GROWN: INDOORS / OUTDOORS IN SUMMER PREFERRED ASPECT: FULL LIGHT; AVOID DIRECT SUN WATERING: INFREQUENT There are a number of Haworthia succulents to consider for houseplants, or for growing in a summer garden in the UK. Haworthia fasciata is one spectacular example within this species to consider. H. fasciata It is a small, half-hardy succulent that is drought tolerant. In the UK, it can be ideal for planting outside during the summer and bringing undercover during the winter months. 15) Lithops GENUS SIZE: ~40 Species HARDINESS RATING: H2 TYPICALLY GROWN: INDOORS PREFERRED ASPECT: FULL SUN WATERING: INFREQUENT The more you learn about succulents, the more you will learn about the weird and wonderful forms in which they come. Lithops (living stones) are perhaps one of the weirdest. Native to the harsh sunny climes of South Africa, these small plants really do look like stones. They need plenty of sun, so put them on a south-facing windowsill and they will slowly grow to form small clusters of colourful pebble-like plants. 16) Kalanchoe GENUS SIZE: ~125 Species HARDINESS RATING: H1B TYPICALLY GROWN: INDOORS PREFERRED ASPECT: PART SHADE WATERING: INFREQUENT If you are looking for a succulent that offers flowers as well as intriguing foliage then you cannot do better than Kalanchoe blossfeldiana. K. blossfeldiana Flaming Katy can bloom for weeks on end and can have blooms in a wide variety of different hues. There are also plenty of other types of Kalanchoe to consider. These are, as mentioned above, just a small fraction of the many succulents you could consider, especially if you are growing them indoors in the UK. Most are relatively easy to care for and won’t take a lot of time to tend. They can also allow you to experience the wonderful world of exotic plants from around the world in your very own home. If you don’t already grow succulents, now is a good time to start! References 1. Palsdottir, H. (2017, June 16). Purslane – A Tasty “Weed” That is Loaded With Nutrients. Healthline. Retrieved March 24, 2023, from https://www.healthline.com/nutrition/purslane 2. Lachelin, L. (n.d.-a). Aeonium species. Oxford University Plants. Retrieved March 24, 2023, from https://herbaria.plants.ox.ac.uk/bol/plants400/Profiles/ab/Aeonium 3. The Editors of Encyclopaedia Britannica. (1999d, July 23). Echeveria | Description, Major Species, & Facts. Encyclopedia Britannica. Retrieved March 24, 2023, from https://www.britannica.com/plant/Echeveria 4. Chandegara, V., & Kumar Varshney, A. (2012, December). Aloe vera: Development of gel extraction process for Aloe vera leaves. Research Gate. Retrieved March 24, 2023, from https://www.researchgate.net/publication/274315362_Aloe_vera_Development_of_gel_extraction_process_for_Aloe_vera_leaves
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Homegrown Garden Peas: How Experts Advise Growing Pisum Sativum Plants
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Common Varieties Where To Grow Peas Planting Out Peas Peas Plant Care References There are few things more satisfying than picking your own homegrown garden peas. Deliciously sweet and super tasty – once you’ve tasted peas you’ve handpicked that very day, you will never go back to frozen. Garden peas are an easy and extremely attractive crop to grow, adding texture, structure and colour to your garden. They also don’t take up too much space, and you can even grow them in containers meaning they are a perfect addition to any garden, no matter its size. Overview Botanical Name Pisum sativum Common Name(s) Garden peas Plant Type Vegetable Native Area Cultivated Hardiness Rating H2 and H3 (Some H4) Foliage Edible shoots Flowers White Botanically, peas are actually classed as fruit as they contain seeds and develop from the ovary of a flower. Peas, or Pisum sativum, are annual plants meaning they have a one-year life cycle. Immature peas are used as a vegetable and can be consumed fresh, or are preserved frozen or in cans. Mature peas – typically called field peas – produce dry peas and are the basis for pease porridge and pea soup, both medieval dietary staples. These days, peas are one of the most popular crops and are used in cooking worldwide. Common Varieties There are many, many types of peas, and they all vary in size, shape, colour and taste. Some peas mature early so can be sown in autumn and harvested in June, whilst others won’t mature until October. “Pea varieties can broadly be classified by how soon they can be harvested after sowing,” shares Master Horticulturist Peter Lickorish. “First early peas produce crops within just a little over 2 months, second early peas take around 3 months to crop and the maincrop varieties will take 4 months or more. “First early peas tend to be the smaller plants anyway, but the more dwarf first early peas, which produce smooth peas, are usually the safer option for autumn sowing. “Remember to look for the hardier cultivars too, for early sowings, such as ‘Meteor’.” With so many types of peas to choose from, it can be hard to know where to start. We’ve put together a list of some of our favourite peas to help you get started. ‘Capucijner’ This highly ornamental, heirloom species of pea plant is said to have been bred in Holland during the 1500s by Capuchin monks.1 This variety bears pretty, deep purple bods which contain olive-green peas that can be harvested in July and August. Growing to a height of 1.8m and with a spread of 25cm, they also produce lovely pink-white flowers that bloom from June to August. This makes them a great way to add interest to borders. Capucijner peas are delicious in soups and stews, and the plants thrive best in well-drained soil and full sun or dappled shade. This plant will do well in large pots and containers but will need regular watering. ‘Avola’ This hardy first early pea plant grows to a height of 60cm and 25cm in spread and has a compact growth habit making it ideal for growing in pots and containers and small gardens. Avola pea plants yield an abundance of tender pods containing eight deliciously sweet peas. If you find you have a surplus of peas after harvest, the peas can be frozen easily. This variety also produces white flowers and can be harvested in July and August. As with most pea plants, the Avola will do best in moist, well-drained soil and full sun or dappled shade. ‘Hurst Greenshaft’ This popular maincrop pea produces prolific crops of long pods, containing as many as ten wrinkly peas each which can be harvested from June all the way through to the end of September. This variety is a firm favourite among gardeners and has even been awarded the Royal Horticulture Society’s prestigious Award of Garden Merit.2 ‘Hurst Greenshaft’ pea plants grow to a height of around 1.5m and spread to about 20cm in width and grow well in vegetable patches alongside carrots, beans and other yummy veggies. This variety will thrive in a spot when it can enjoy full sun, in moist, well-drained soil. ‘Canoe’ The canoe pea plant bears long, slightly curved pods which resemble a canoe in shape and contain up to twelve peas. The stems of this plant have very few leaves which makes it really easy to harvest the peas. Canoe peas have a lovely sweet flavour and are an excellent option for freezing. Growing to a height of 75cm and with a spread of 25cm, this variety can be sown in March and will be ready to harvest through July and August. They also produce pretty white flowers which blossom from June to the end of August. It sits within the maincrop category. These flowers are rich in nectar and are loved by bees and other vital pollinators. Canoe pea plants grow best in rich, moist, well-drained soil, in full sun or dappled shade. Where To Grow Peas Peas need a nice open, weed-free site and moist, fertile, well-drained soil. Several weeks prior to planting, we recommend digging a fair amount of well-rotted compost into the soil to improve fertility and help it retain more moisture. Peas can also make a great choice for container growing if you provide the right support, as Garden Blogger and Author Kathy Slack explains: “You have to think about bang for buck in a pot, so choose crops that keep on giving, rather than one hit wonders like broccoli, cabbage, etc) and you’ll get more food for per pot. “Peas and their varieties, such as ‘Alderman’ which drip-drip flowers so you don’t need to resow), are a great choice.” Planting Out Peas If you’ve sown peas indoors, before planting, allow the seedlings to harden off over a week. You can then plant them out in their permanent positions. Without support, pea plants have a tendency to flop over onto the ground. To prevent this, you should make sure you put supports in place early long while the plants are still young. Pea plants produce long shoots called tendrils which instinctually wrap themselves around anything in their path, so choose long thin supports to help guide and train them up in the right direction. Prunings from a range of woody plants can be sunk securely in the ground and your peas’ tendrils will find them. Peas Plant Care Peas should be watered regularly. Once the plants begin producing flowers, we recommend watering the plants thoroughly once a week to encourage good development and help the plants to establish themselves fully. You can prevent the loss of moisture by applying a nice, thick mulch of well-rotted compost after watering; this will help lock in the moisture for longer. References 1. Pea – ‘Blue Pod Capucijners.’ (2021, December 22). Seeds of Imbolc. Retrieved March 16, 2023, from https://seedsofimbolc.ca/index.php/product/blue-pod-capucijners-pea-pre-1800pisum-sativum-cv/ 2. Pisum sativum “Hurst Green Shaft.” (n.d.). Royal Horticultural Society. Retrieved March 16, 2023, from https://www.rhs.org.uk/plants/346810/pisum-sativum-hurst-green-shaft/details
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Growing Potatoes In Pots - Here's This Permaculture Gardener's 5 Expert Tips
IN THIS GUIDE 1) Choose A Container Variety 2) Start By Chitting Potatoes 3) Choosing A Container 4) Filling Your Container & Planting Your Potatoes 5) Caring For Potato Plants In Pots References If you grow potatoes in a pot, you can grow your own even in the smallest of spaces. Potatoes are one of the common crops that can take up rather a lot of space in a vegetable garden. Thankfully, it is possible to grow potatoes in much less space. In this article, we’ll talk about how to grow potatoes in a pot or other container – something anyone can do cheaply and easily here in the UK. 1) Choose A Container Variety ‘Charlotte’ potatoes – one variety we find grows well in containers. The first thing to think about if you want to grow potatoes in a pot is what variety or varieties of potatoes you would like to grow. Potatoes are usually divided into first early, second early, and maincrop – distinctions based on how long the potatoes are left in the ground and when they are harvested. First early and second early varieties are generally the best options for growing in containers, because they are harvested when they are smaller, after a shorter time period. Though it is also possible to grow maincrop potatoes in containers if you choose containers that are large enough. First earlies are usually harvested from around ten weeks from planting, second earlies from around 14 weeks, and maincrop after 20 weeks or longer. In addition to thinking about which type of potato to choose, you also need to think about the variety. You should consider the potatoes you like to eat, and how you like to cook them. Some varieties are better for mash, some for boiling, some for baking or for frying etc… Some potatoes are floury, while some are smoother and more waxy in texture. Personally I like the first early potatoes ‘Swift’ and have obtained good yields when growing them in containers. I have also found second earlies ‘Maris Peer’ and ‘Charlotte’ to grow well in containers where I live. It is best to purchase certified seed potatoes that are disease-free.1 However, you can also plant potatoes you have purchased, or even scraps from those potatoes if they are sections that have the little dimples called ‘eyes’. 2) Start By Chitting Potatoes Regardless of whether you are growing first earlies, second earlies or maincrop potatoes, seed potatoes are usually planted between March and May. (Where I live, I plant first earlies in containers in my polytunnel in March, but wait a month or more before planting up containers that will be outside.) But for best results, it can be a good idea to ‘chit’ your potatoes before you plant them. This just means that you place your potatoes in a cool but light place indoors to develop green shoots before you plant them. This is not absolutely essential, but doing so can give your potato plants a bit of a head start and mean a slightly earlier harvest.2 3) Choosing A Container Once you have chosen your potatoes (and started to chit them if you choose to do so) you should turn your attention to your choice of container. You can grow potatoes in many different types of container – from plastic pots, to grow bags, to buckets, to wire cylinders or reclaimed wood frames filled to make structures called ‘potato towers’. It has to be said that the best yields are obtained from mulched raised beds, so if you can grow them in this way – do. However, if you don’t have much space, container growing can still give worthwhile yields. Generally speaking, you can plant one seed potato and grow one potato plant in a 20-litre pot, or a container of comparable size. For first earlies and second earlies you can get away with using a 10-litre pot per plant, but a 20-litre container is better. If using a larger container, make sure that you allow around 10 litres of capacity per seed potato. So in a typical 40-litre bin, for example, you could plant 4 seed potatoes. This is a rough rule of thumb, but can help you avoid overcrowding your plants in whatever container you choose. Another important thing to think about is that there should be adequate drainage at the base of the container you choose so excess water can drain out of it. And remember, potatoes are a cool-season crop that needs plenty of moisture. It is best not to use black or dark containers as these can retain more heat and tend to dry out more quickly. 4) Filling Your Container & Planting Your Potatoes Planting potatoes is a little different than potting up other plants. Rather than filling your containers and then planting in the top, you will actually only fill the bottom 10cm or so with your growing medium. You will then plant your seed potatoes (with green shoots pointing upwards) and cover them with some more of the growing medium. At this point, your container will be less than half full – this is to allow space for ‘earthing up’. As the plants grow, you will slowly add more growing medium around the plants until your container is full and the plants are growing strong. This is to allow more roots and tubers to form from the stem that is covered up. I have used the term ‘growing medium’ rather than saying soil or compost because you have a few options when it comes to what you plant your potatoes in, and what you use when ‘earthing up’. To save on bought potting mix or compost, it is always a good idea in an organic garden to make your own. I make my own compost, and combine this with 1/3 loamy soil and 1/3 leaf mould. I find that this makes an excellent potting mix for potatoes and a number of other edible crops. I also add one other ingredient when I am planting my potatoes – after adding the first layer of compost mix, I layer in some comfrey leaves. Comfrey is a great plant to have in your garden. It makes great mulch, and you can use it to make a liquid feed too. These leaves break down pretty quickly and give the potatoes a great start. If you live near a coast, I also find that layering seaweed into the container when planting also works well. You can also make a mini ‘lasagna garden’ in a container to grow potatoes. Rather than using ready-made compost, you can layer carbon-rich brown materials (straw, autumn leaves, shredded untreated cardboard) and green materials (nitrogen-rich grass clippings, vegetable scraps etc.). These layers will break down and compost in place as the potato plants grow and the tubers form. You are pretty much growing potatoes in a compost bin. As long as you keep layering a good variety of materials, potato plants should grow well. Potatoes are not too fussy about what they grow in, so you can use pretty much whatever you have to hand, from your own garden soil, to homemade compost, to organic, compostable materials and they should grow pretty well. 5) Caring For Potato Plants In Pots As with many plants grown in containers, watering is important. Potatoes will need plenty of moisture, and those grown in pots will typically need more than those growing in the ground – don’t let the pots or containers dry out. “I’ve found that keeping potatoes in pots sufficiently watered is the biggest challenge,” shares Colin Skelly, a Horticultural Consultant. “For the tubers to swell and produce a crop of good-sized potatoes you need to ensure that the growing medium is moist from top to bottom. “Otherwise, the result can be seemingly abundant and healthy foliage but few and/or tiny potatoes.” It is also a good idea, for best results, to feed your potatoes once or twice with a good quality organic plant feed. A compost tea, or seaweed feed are both excellent options (and you can even make them at home). It can be difficult to tell from your potato plants when the tubers are ready to harvest. While often, the first tubers will be ready when the first flowers appear, some plants won’t flower at all. So it is best to simply gently feel in the soil around your plants to see how big the tubers are. If they are large enough to be worthwhile, you can harvest a few at a time by feeling around, or you can simply upend the whole container and see what it contains. You might not get the hugest of harvests when you grow potatoes in pots, but they’ll taste so much better when you grow them yourself! References 1. Springborn, F., & Jean, M. (2017, March 22). Planting disease-free potato seed is important for all potato growers. MSU Extension. Retrieved March 23, 2023, from https://www.canr.msu.edu/news/planting_disease_free_potato_seeds 2. Chitting potatoes – Thrive. (n.d.). Thrive. Retrieved March 23, 2023, from https://www.thrive.org.uk/get-gardening/chitting-potatoes
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In Just 5 Steps You Can Make Your Own Terrarium To Combine Hobbycraft And Horticulture
IN THIS GUIDE What Is A Terrarium? How To Make A Terrarium What You Will Need: 1) Add Compost To Your Container 2) Dig A Hole For Your Plants 3) Add Your Plants 4) Firm Up The Soil 5) Add Aquatic Gravel How Do Terrariums Work? Best Plants For Terrariums Caring For Your Terrarium Dealing With Pests References Terrariums have been popular for well over a hundred years, and it’s easy to see why. These gorgeous, compact gardens are fascinating to observe from week to week and make a fabulous living ornament for your home. “It is quite easy to create a small terrarium from a wide-necked glass bottle, which will provide greenery indoors with absolutely no watering,” shares gardener Karen Liebreich. Through the glass, you can observe the journey of the roots through the layers of soil, making it a great learning opportunity for adults and kids alike. “Terrariums combine hobbycraft and horticulture, are great projects for young and old and can be personalised in any way you wish,” says Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly. “If you get the location and watering right, they are also pretty low maintenance. “They can also be a good way to engage children with what plants need to grow and where garden and house plants have come from.” So, whether you have limited space, limited time, or simply want an ultra-low maintenance gardening experience – terrariums are the answer. And, while you could buy one at your local garden centre, they are super easy and fun to make, and we are going to show you how. What Is A Terrarium? Terrariums are small, encased environments where certain plants can grow. They are essentially mini-greenhouses and are typically made from transparent containers made from glass or plastic. Trending in the Victorian era, terrariums are still popular today. Terrariums were actually invented by accident by Nathaniel Bagshaw Ward in 1842.1 Ward had an interest in observing insect behaviour and accidentally forgot about one of his many jars. Inside a fern spore grew and germinated into a plant and thus the first terrarium was created, although back then it was known as a Wardian case.2 The Victorian public was enamoured with this novel, glass-encased garden, and the trend soon took off.3 It’s safe to say they’ve stood the test of time: terrariums are still popular to this day. How To Make A Terrarium As you’d expect, open terrariums are just as easy to make as the sealed ones, and here’s how to do it: What You Will Need: A glass or plastic container – no lid required for this one! Cactus potting compost Activated charcoal Your selection of plants Long-handled spoon Long tweezers Aquatic gravel (you can buy this in pet shops) Gardening gloves if you are handling spiky plants Decorative materials such as moss and rocks if you wish Now that you have everything you need, it’s time to get started. Here are the steps to create your very own open terrarium: 1) Add Compost To Your Container Spoon your potting compost into the container and sprinkle a thin layer of active charcoal on top. 2) Dig A Hole For Your Plants Using the spoon, dig a small hole that allows adequate space for your chosen plants. 3) Add Your Plants Remove the plants from the pots, use gardening gloves if required, and gently massage the roots to loosen them from the soil. 4) Firm Up The Soil Place the plants in the hole and use the spoon to gently firm the soil around them to make sure they are securely in place. 5) Add Aquatic Gravel Add a layer of aquatic gravel. We do not recommend using decorative gravel as this will not provide sufficient levels of drainage. Top tip: If you find the plants in either style terrarium are covered in soil when you are finished, use a small paintbrush to gently brush the debris away. How Do Terrariums Work? There are two types of terrarium: sealed and open. Sealed ones have a removable lid while the open ones do not. Sealed Terrariums Sealed terrariums are pretty much self-sufficient. The temperature in the terrarium will be higher than room temperature, meaning the plants and soil will produce moisture. The moisture then evaporates and condenses on the side of the container, before trickling back down to the soil. This cycle will repeat, essentially recycling the water indefinitely. Being transparent, the container will also allow for photosynthesis to occur. Terrariums are therefore self-nourishing so require very little care and maintenance. Open Terrariums Terrariums mean you can design your own desert! As you would expect, open terrariums do not require a lid, and often the plants will grow up and out of their container. Unlike sealed terrariums, open ones create drier conditions instead of a moist environment. As they are exposed to open-air, these terrariums don’t have a regular water cycle so require watering frequently, usually once a week or when the soil becomes dry, and you notice leaves falling from plants. Desert plants are ideal for open terrariums as they don’t require humidity and need access to more oxygen and humidity to thrive. Best Plants For Terrariums Creating terrariums is exciting, but perhaps the most crucial decision before you begin is choosing the right plants for your new pint-sized garden. Where sealed terrariums are concerned, you are going to want to pick small, slow-growing foliage plants such as ferns, carnivorous plants and tropical plants that thrive in humidity. You basically get to create your own, personal, tiny rainforest! As mentioned, open terrariums generate dry conditions so you’ll want to include slow-growing air plants, cacti and succulents. With open terrariums, you can build your miniature dream desert. Caring For Your Terrarium Part of the joy of terrariums is they require very little attention; however, there are a few things you can do to ensure they stay healthy and last for as long as possible. If you are growing ferns, you can trim them occasionally to prevent them from outgrowing their little home. Keep an eye out for and remove yellowing or brown leaves as this can be a sign of pests and disease. With closed terrariums, you can occasionally take the lid off to allow it to get some fresh air. With open terrariums, do weekly checks to see if you have any visible pests such as gnats or mealy bugs. Sealed terrariums can be watered once a month, although it will depend on the plants you have chosen to include. Open terrariums benefit from being watered every 3-6 weeks. Dealing With Pests If you begin having problems with pests, then we recommend using insecticidal soap on the infected plant. However, if this doesn’t solve the problem quickly, it is best to remove the plant altogether to prevent further spread. You can then replace it with a fresh, new healthy plant. Top tip: Always check your plants before buying to make sure there are no pests or signs of disease. References 1. Dr. Nathaniel Bagshaw Ward. (n.d.). PlantExplorers.com. Retrieved March 20, 2023, from https://www.plantexplorers.com/explorers/biographies/ward/nathaniel-bagshaw-ward.htm 2. Nathaniel Bagshaw Ward. (2019, June 4). The Linda Hall Library. Retrieved March 20, 2023, from https://www.lindahall.org/about/news/scientist-of-the-day/nathaniel-bagshaw-ward 3. Maylack, J. (2017, November 12). How a Glass Terrarium Changed the World. The Atlantic. Retrieved March 20, 2023, from https://www.theatlantic.com/technology/archive/2017/11/how-a-glass-terrarium-changed-the-world/545621/
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We Interviewed Four Dahlia Growers - These Were Their Essential Grow Tips
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Why Grow Dahlias? Choosing Dahlias Where To Grow Dahlias Dahlia Plant Care Irrigation Staking Late Season Care References Dahlias are varied flowering plants that are favourites for many gardeners. They come in a huge range of shapes, sizes, growth habits and hues – so no matter what you are looking for when it comes to your garden design, you may well find a dahlia that suits. “My favourite plants at the moment are Dahlias,” shares Ben Raskin, an expert Horticulturist. “In my old garden, I couldn’t grow them because of slugs, but I’m enjoying them at the moment in my new garden.” We’ve interviewed FOUR dahlia specialists to understand the insider secrets to growing and caring for these fascinating plants, including: Jack Gott – Owner of plant nursery JRG Dahlias. Elaine Patullo – Owner of Dachshund Dahlia Plant Nursery. David Hall – Director at Halls of Heddon. June Nash – Secretary for The National Dahlia Society. “Dahlias are such a rewarding plant with a vast range of colours, forms and sizes, with just about every colour but blue!” says David. “They can be grown in pots though are better in the garden. They flower over a long period from mid-July, even a bit earlier depending on the varieties used, and they will flower right up to the frosts.” Overview Botanical Name Dahlia Plant Type Perennial Native Area Mexico & Central America Hardiness Rating Various Foliage Herbaceous Flowers Varied When To Sow April, May, June Flowering Months June to September (some varieties will flower until the onset of autumn frosts) Dahlias are related to sunflowers, daisies, chrysanthemums and zinnia, being members of the Asteraceae family.1 There are 42 species of dahlia, and many hybrids and sub-species are also commonly grown as garden plants.2 Their flowers and forms can vary considerably – dahlias can range in height from just 30cm or so to more than 6ft. “I am a huge dahlia fan,” shares Edible Bristol’s Sara Venn. “I love their blooms and how appealing they are to polliantors.” Dahlias offer incredibly varied blooms Most dahlias are not highly scented, but usually attract pollinators through their bright colours. They can be found in most shades – excepting blue. The flowers are composite, with central disc florets surrounded by ray florets. Though some describe the florets as ‘petals’, each is actually a flower in its own right. Why Grow Dahlias? “Dahlias are easy to grow and brighten any patio, border, allotment or field!” says Elaine, owner of Dachshund Dahlia Plant Nursery. “Every dahlia is unique, the range of shapes and colours is amazing and the fact pollinators love them too makes them even more appealing.” Dahlias are prized for their attractive, showy flowers, but the reasons to grow them vary depending on which cultivar or cultivars you choose to grow. Single flowers are best for pollinators (bees and beetles are the main pollinating species for this genus). More complex or double blooms are less wildlife friendly, but can often create impressive visual effects. “Dahlias have no boundaries and there are so many different sizes, shapes and colours that there is a dahlia for every garden, from a small front yard to a stately home,” says June. “They flower for such a long season, from late summer to the first frost, and in the autumn when there is little else in flower, dahlias add so much colour to the garden and they are easy to grow.” Large and showy, taller dahlias can often be stand-outs and key features in a planting scheme, while shorter cultivars can be great for container growing or for the front edge of beds or borders. David Hall also notes that they are being grown more often to be used as a cut flower, as they are very much ‘cut and come again’ perennials. “Photographing dahlias in late summer is always special, with their rich deep colours and textures,” shares award-winning garden photographer Andrea Jones. But there is another, more interesting and unusual reason why you might want to grow dahlias in your garden. You may be surprised to learn that dahlias are actually not only an ornamental but also an edible crop! ‘Verrone’s Obsidian’ As mentioned above, dahlias are a relative of the sunflower; they are also related to the Jerusalem artichoke. The petals of the flowers are edible, and you can also eat dahlia tubers. This was common knowledge to the native peoples of southern Mexico, who cultivated this plant as a crop. The tubers vary in taste depending on the cultivar or variety, and the soil in which they were grown. Heirloom varieties (such as D. pinnata ‘Yellow Gem’ for example) tend to be more flavoursome than more modern hybrids bred for huge, fluffy blooms. Some can be quite bland – but others taste somewhat like chestnuts or yacon, some like spicy apple, celery root or even carrot. So dahlias can be a great plant choice for companion planting in a vegetable garden, not just because they can attract pollinators and other beneficial insects, but also because they can be an edible crop in their own right. Note: take care if you plan on eating dahlia tubers. These plants will store any chemicals you use on your garden in their tubers, including any synthetic fertilisers or pesticides. Of course, we recommend that you always garden organically and never use these harmful products in your garden, so this should not be an issue. Dahlias and other edible flowers in a vegetable garden. Choosing Dahlias When choosing dahlias, you should of course consider whether you are growing them purely for their ornamental value. If you want to eat them, and would like them to attract pollinators and be beneficial for wildlife in your garden, you will need to take those things into account when choosing a cultivar or cultivars to grow. Cactus D. ‘My Love’ When talking about their appearance, dahlias are divided into 14 classification groups by the National Dahlia Society: Anemone flowered dahlias. Ball dahlias. Cactus dahlias. Collerette dahlias. Double orchid dahlias. Fimbriated dahlias. Formal decorative dahlias. Miscellaneous dahlias. Paeony dahlias. Pompom dahlias. Semi-cactus dahlias. Single flowered dahlias. Star dahlias. Waterlily dahlias. Thinking about the different flower choices available can help you to decide which one may be right for your particular garden plans. “I love growing single-flowered dahlias because they attract beneficial insects and pollinators,” shares Garden Designer Ann-Marie Powell. “I think that singles are a bit truer to nature and they look much more natural to me.” Of course, you will also need to consider the height to which the cultivar you are considering will grow. Pompom dahlia This will determine where best to place the plants in reference to the environment and other plantings around. But largely speaking, which dahlias you choose to grow will be a matter of personal aesthetic preference. Where To Grow Dahlias “Dahlias do best in the open ground, in a sunny aspect and with well-drained soil,” explains David – and we agree! All dahlias like a sunny site, ideally with space between them and neighbouring plants. Dahlias like a relatively fertile soil that is rich in organic matter; moist yet relatively free-draining soils are ideal. Where the climate allows tubers to remain in the ground over the winter, it is best to plant them in lighter, more free-draining soils. Though dahlias can grow in heavier clay, the tubers can suffer in the colder and soggier conditions. If you do have a heavier soil, or live in a colder area, you will likely need to lift the tubers in autumn or grow them in pots year-round. Dahlia Plant Care Irrigation Dahlias need to be watered well in hot and dry weather. It is best to water deeply once a week rather than watering little and often, as the latter can encourage shallower root formation and less resilient plants. “Don’t let the soil get too dry, but also make sure the soil is well-draining so the plants do not get waterlogged,” says Jack Gott, the owner of JRG Dahlias (with over 50 years of experience growing dahlias). See more expert guidance in our watering guide. Staking Remember, taller dahlias will need staking or some other form of support. Often, you will not need to buy supports but can make your own using long branches or canes from your garden, or reclaimed materials that might otherwise be thrown away. Late Season Care “Regular deadheading will help prolong flowering, unless, of course, you fancy collecting some of your own seeds,” says David. Deadhead weekly to encourage plants to produce more flowers – cut back the stems to a leaf node. “Dahlias is simple once you can tell new flower buds from spent flowers,” shares Dan Ori, a Master Horticulturist. “This may sound easy if you have never looked closely at a spent Dahlia flower, but they sometimes resemble flower buds, so be careful when pruning.” Of course, you may also wish to harvest dahlias for cut flowers through the summer season. As autumn wears on, dahlias will typically start looking more and more tatty; flowering will slow down as the temperatures fall. At the end of the season, you will, if you live in warmer regions with free-draining soil, be able to leave tubers in place. But mulch well with a dense layer of bark chip, straw or compost to protect the tubers from the cold. In all other situations, cut down the stems and dig up the tubers. See our guidelines for overwintering to use your tubers again the following year. Take care of the tubers and you can enjoy your dahlias year after year. References 1. Sunflowers, Daisies, Asters, and Allies (Family Asteraceae). (n.d.). iNaturalist. Retrieved March 14, 2023, from https://www.inaturalist.org/taxa/47604-Asteraceae 2. Species Dahlias. (n.d.). The American Dahlia Society. Retrieved March 14, 2023, from https://www.dahlia.org/docsinfo/species-dahlias/
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