Growing
How To Grow Helenium AKA ‘Sneezeweed’ For Grassy, Prairie-Style Garden Backdrops
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Helenium Varieties How To Grow Heleniums Helenium Care Prairie Companion Planting Common Problems References Heleniums are an interesting lot. They’re related to sunflowers, sharing the bright yellow-orange bloom and tall stature, while being striking enough to carve out their own reputation amongst gardeners. If you’re looking for a fairly manageable plant to bring some visual interest to your garden, then look no further. “I really love simple open, daisy-like flowers like Heleniums, purely because they are brilliant for wildlife such as bees, butterflies and birds,” says Mark Lane, Garden Designer and TV Presenter. Overview Botanical Name Helenium Common Name(s) Sneezeweed Plant Type Perennial Flower Native Area Americas Hardiness Rating H7 Foliage Simple leaves Flowers Daisy-like flowers When To Sow March, April, May, September, October Flowering Months July, August, September, October Aesthetically, heleniums lend themselves to grassy, prairie-style backdrops. They generally like bright sunlight, making them a good choice for particularly sunny spots that other plants may not enjoy. They’re perennials, meaning that if you look after them properly, they’ll come back year after year. In fact they are very hardy perennials (down to extremely cold temperatures) that bloom in summer, usually late, until late autumn. “I love Heleniums,” states Garden Designer Jacquie Felix-Mitchell. “They are such a fabulous perennial and the bees love them.” They like full sunlight and well-drained soil, and don’t present too much of a challenge for new gardeners. And many of the varieties are popular amongst bees and other pollinators, giving them an important role in encouraging and protecting these insects. Heleniums offer a late-in-the-year bloom to keep visual interest going for longer, and they lend themselves well to all sorts of contexts, from borders, to flower-beds, to increasingly popular prairie planting. And with high hardiness, simple demands, and relatively low-maintenance needs once established, heleniums are a good choice for even the most novice gardener. Helenium Varieties Despite North American heritage, there are several helenium varieties suited to growing in UK gardens.1 We’ve rounded up a few of our favourites, with special attention paid to those given the RHS Award of Garden Merit – a vouch for their quality and suitability. All the varieties below are hardiness rating H7, meaning they can survive in temperatures below -20°C, practically guaranteeing their survival in British gardens. H. ‘Chelsey’ Flowering forth with beautiful red blooms in late summer, H. ‘Chelsey’ is a great introduction to this plant’s majesty. Late-blooming flowers are a good way to keep visual interest going in your garden year-round, and helenium alongside flowers that bloom in spring is one way to achieve this. The requirements are par for the course for heleniums: full sun, well-drained soil, with little fuss about soil composition as long as it’s dry. Size-wise, ‘Chelsey’ will grow up to about a metre, and it’ll take up to five years to get there. H. ‘Sahin’s Early Flowerer’ No clues for guessing where the name comes from. Early flowerer flowers earlier than other varieties, coming out in early summer, rather than late. This variety can be used alongside other sneezeweed varieties to keep visual interest going year-round, as we mentioned in the previous section. The size and preferences are similar to ‘Chelsey’: full sun, well-drained soil, up to a metre high over a few years. H. ‘Dunkle Pracht’ For the non-German speakers amongst us, the name translates as ‘Dark Splendour’, and it’s easy to see why – The rich, hearty orange tones of this helenium variety will hit full swing in late summer, staying in bloom through autumn. Variation between colour palettes of different helenium types is subtle, so it’s worth familiarising yourself with each one before choosing which to buy. H. ‘Rubinzwerg’ Another German name, this time meaning ‘Ruby Dwarf’. And again, it’s easy to tell why – this helenium variety boasts rich orange-red leaves, bringing to mind the resplendent colour of a ruby gemstone. This variety stands proudly upright, distinguishing it from some other clumpier varieties. It’ll grow to about a metre high over a few years, and favours direct sun and – you guessed it – well-drained soil. H. ‘Waltraut’ The plant is a stunner. Rich orange petals radiate from a brown seedy centre, bringing a burst of colour to your garden in summer and autumn. This is another upright variety, standing above some of the lower-growing clustering varieties mentioned previously. Combining the two types is a reliable way to add another layer of visual interest – the vertical element. How To Grow Heleniums Heleniums are especially suited to ‘prairie planting’. If you’re not sure what this means, let us fill you in. Prairies are areas of wild grassland where grasses and wildflowers are left to their own devices. The result is a rich blanket of colour, less manicured than most kempt gardens, but capable of just as much beauty. In recent years, prairie planting has grown in popularity, as gardeners look to bring the raw, rugged natural aesthetic into their own backyard. If this is a look you’re interested in, then heleniums are definitely the right choice. As a North American prairie plant by heritage, they’re perfectly suited to recreating the look in a UK garden. Here’s how to grow and care for sneezeweed to ensure optimal results. Planting For best results, sprout your helenium seeds indoors then harden them off for a couple of weeks before planting out. Look to plant them out ideally not later than the end of March. If you miss this time window you can plant them a bit later, but they won’t have enough time to establish if you leave it too late. You can add fertiliser each spring to nourish the plant and pave the way for optimal growth next season. Where To Plant Somewhere sunny! If you can only find a spot with partial shade, we advise opting for a yellow variety over orange or red – this is because the pigmentation indicates a tolerance for lower levels of sunlight. When you’ve found a suitable spot for your helenium, dig a hole that’s about twice the size of the plant’s roots. Plant the rootball, cover it over, then water generously before adding a few centimetres of mulch to retain the moisture. “Prairie style plantings are often quite densely planted, which is great because this leaves less space for unwanted plants (weeds) to come in,” shares Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly. “However, this can mean that there is competition from adjacent plants and the late flowering perennials can be prone to being crowded out in the first year or two of establishment. “I normally mark any plants I want to keep an eye on with a low can or pea stick so that I can spot them when looking for them. “I then make sure that surrounding foliage is cut back where needed. Once established, they can compete quite successfully.” Helenium Care Watering While heleniums like well-drained soil, they also need to be watered regularly to ensure the best growth. If you leave these plants to dry out completely they will struggle to survive, so be vigilant to ensure they stay healthy. Deadheading & Pruning As with most flowering plants, deadheading and pruning are encouraged to aid with healthy growth. If you’re not familiar, deadheading refers to removing tired (or ‘spent’) flowers to allow healthier growth in newer ones. By getting rid of flowers that are on their way out anyway, you allow the plant to allocate more resources and nutrients to fledgeling blooms. Simply pull off any flowers that look brown around the petals, or seem to be wilting. Pull them off carefully to avoid damage to the stems, then watch as the next generation of flowers take their place. Plant Support Some helenium varieties grow tall and need a little support to stay strong. You can achieve this by placing a stake near the roots when you plant out in spring, and encouraging the helenium to lean against it for structural support. Once the plant is established it probably won’t need ongoing support. When you’re happy that they’ve reached this stage, just remove the stake. Overwintering / Division Trimming back sneezeweed stems when the flowers begin to die in late autumn / early winter helps promote better growth next season. Using secateurs, trim back to just below the level where foliage occurs. After a few years, your plant will be ready to divide. You’ll be able to tell when it starts looking a bit less glorious and a bit more haggard. At this stage, dig up the plant, tease apart the roots into three or four sections, and replant each as its own adult plant (or pot them up and give them as gifts – spread the love!). Prairie Companion Planting As a little bonus, we thought we’d introduce a few other plants that go well with Heleniums if you’re interested in trying out prairie planting – Rudbeckia A bold yellow flower native to North America, that sits gracefully alongside the colour palette sneezeweed offers. Fennel A rustic-looking perennial that grows tall and lends a captivating fragrance to your garden. It works well toward the back of displays thanks to its height. Calamagrostis A tall, fluffy grass that provides a great backdrop to the dots of colour offered by heleniums and other prairie flowers. Molinia Another grass valued for its role in providing a backdrop. Of special interest is the partial transparency, letting other colours and shapes shine through the display. This type of gardening is well worth a look if you’re not acquainted. It’s a great way to play with common plants and themes, while bringing something undeniably rustic and noteworthy to your garden. Common Problems Heleniums attract the attention of a few garden undesirables. Here’s what to look out for, and how to keep them at bay: Slugs & Snails These gross, slimy customers need no introduction, and won’t wait for one before letting themselves into your garden to investigate the tasty treats on offer. And sadly, young helenium plants definitely fall into this category. Your best bet is to manually remove inquisitive slugs and snails. Leafspot This fungal disease leaves blemishes and pockmarks on plant leaves, the result of a fungus growing inside and feeding on the plant’s nutrients. With leafspot, prevention is best – water the soil beneath your helenium rather than watering from the top of the plant and letting it trickle down. Dry leaves with good air circulation are far less prone to damage. If leafspot does take hold, many products are available from gardening stores. Some are natural and organic, others use more controversial chemicals to eradicate the condition, but which may have a harmful impact on wildlife in your garden. References 1. Helenium autumnale. (n.d.). Kew Royal Botanic Gardens. Retrieved March 16, 2023, from https://powo.science.kew.org/taxon/urn:lsid:ipni.org:names:211760-1
Learn more
Salvia Is A Broad-Ranging Genus, But These Tips Can Help You Grow Them Successfully
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Why Grow Salvias? How To Grow Salvia Salvia Plant Care References Whether you are cultivating an edible landscape, or a purely ornamental one, Salvias can be good choices for many gardens. From well-known culinary sage, to pretty flowering salvias in a range of colours, this genus provides many options for UK gardeners. For these salvia guides, we’ve partnered with: Lyndi Garnett – Coordinator of the Victorian Salvia Study Group. Vicki Weston – Owner of Weston’s Salvias. “Salvias are versatile plants that are generally easy to grow in most soils,” says Lyndi. “They have long-flowering times and come in a variety of colours.” This is such a broad-ranging genus that there is no way to cover them all in just one guide. However, to help you get started with choosing Salvias, we’ve developed this exploration of some of the different types of Salvia you might like to grow, along with some care and growing tips to help you cultivate them successfully. Overview Botanical Name Salvia Common Name(s) Sage Plant Type Perennials / Annuals Native Area Americas, China, Europe Hardiness Rating H3-H7 Foliage Various Flowers Many colours When To Sow May, August, September Flowering Months June, July, August, September, October When To Prune March, April, September, October, November Salvia actually belongs to the Lamiaceae (Mint) family.1 Commonly referred to as ‘sage’, this is one of a number of genera referred to in this way. S. officinalis It includes the common culinary herb sage, as well as a range of other edible and ornamental types. Why Grow Salvias? “I cannot walk past salvias without buying one,” shares Kate Gould, award-winning garden designer. “I don’t know why. I make a beeline for them whenever I’m in a garden – they’re my kryptonite.” Here are some reasons that you might grow salvia. Edible Yields Salvias might provide an edible yield – and choosing those which do provide something of value to you can help you make the most of the space available to you. Whether or not they are useful to human gardeners – all salvias can be beneficial for wildlife with which you share your space. Wildlife Benefits Salvias have beautiful blooms that are beloved by a range of key pollinators like bees, lepidoptera and other beneficial insects. They often also bloom over a relatively long period. Of course, since they attract pollinators and boost biodiversity, bringing wildlife also brings value for you, as a gardener – greater biodiversity brings greater stability, making your garden more resilient. This makes it easier to garden in an organic, eco-friendly way – and of course ensuring there are plenty of pollinators around can ensure good yields of fruits etc. that you cultivate in your garden. Long Blooming Period There is of course a lot of variety, though most Salvia will bloom between June and October. Choosing several different varieties could mean that there is plenty of nectar around for insects to enjoy in your garden throughout the summer and, with certain varieties, well into the autumn too. S. nemorosa The blooming period of salvias also means they add visual appeal in a garden over a long period. “The flowering period can vary from a few weeks to all year round,” says Lyndi. Pest Resistance Salvias are relatively easy to grow, and are usually seldom bothered by problems with pests or diseases. This can make them good choices (especially hardy varieties) for a low-maintenance garden that won’t take much work. How To Grow Salvia All Salvia will tend to do well in full sun, and will thrive with a south-facing aspect, but there are also several types that can cope with dappled or partial shade. Soil Requirements In terms of soil type, there are Salvia suited to a range of conditions, though they will do best in free-draining conditions and most will struggle in areas with heavy clay. “If you live on a heavy, cold clay, you must incorporate lots of grit into your planting hole,” says Vicki. Many varieties can cope with drought, so can be part of xeriscaping plans, and will cope quite well in free-draining soils even when they are poor and relatively low in nutrients. Where To Grow Salvias can be useful plants not only in poor soils and dry areas – they can also be useful in coastal gardens, and other situations that can be tricky for many other plants. “Some salvias like the shade, others prefer the sun, so you can usually find a salvia for any position in the garden,” Lyndi says. In terms of aesthetics, Salvia can work well in many garden schemes, from the sunny fringes of a naturalistic woodland or forest garden, to a kitchen or herb garden, to gardens with an exotic, or tropical, feel. They can also look good in-amongst wildflowers and ornamental grasses in a sunny border. However, though some hardy varieties can remain in the garden over the winter months, it is important to recognise that tender types are best grown in containers. Growing tender Salvias in pots means that you will easily be able to move them under cover before the first frosts in your area. Salvia Plant Care How much and exactly what care they will need depends on which varieties you have chosen to grow. However, generally speaking, these are relatively low-maintenance and hassle-free plants. Watering Under-watering is usually less of a problem with Salvias than over-watering, especially where drainage is less than optional – so less is usually more. “Water until established and when we have one of our seemingly much more frequent overheating summer moments,” says Vicki. Feeding Salvias grown in the ground will typically not require any feeding at all, but Lyndi does recommend mulching: “You can regularly feed your salvias to keep them healthy. If they’re growing in the ground, mulch well to keep the root area cool.” However, if you grow them in containers, it could be a good idea to feed a potash-rich ‘tomato feed’ type organic liquid fertiliser in the summer months. Composting Annuals If you are growing annual varietals, at the end of the season you will lift them and put them on your compost heap prior to the first frost. References 1. Salvia. (n.d.). Kew Royal Botanic Gardens. Retrieved March 24, 2023, from https://powo.science.kew.org/taxon/urn:lsid:ipni.org:names:30000096-2
Learn more
Vegetable Planting Guide By Month: Gardeners Choose Their Favourites To Grow Year-Round
IN THIS GUIDE Vegetable Planting Throughout The Year January February March April May June July August September October November December A vegetable planting guide can only ever give you a rough idea about what you should be doing in your garden and when. It is important to remember that planting is only one of the important garden tasks to think about – and when exactly you undertake garden tasks will depend, to a large degree, on where exactly you live and the conditions in your area and your particular garden. This vegetable planting guide is designed to help you work out where your attention should be directed each month. We’ve given some tips not only about what to sow and plant when, but also about other garden jobs you should be undertaking. Vegetable Planting Throughout The Year We have only given a few guidelines about what you should be doing when, because there are a lot of variabilities – even just within the UK. It is important to treat this list as a guide rather than a rule book. Most crops have a planting window of several months, and you can vary when you plant based on a wide range of factors. When deciding what to plant when in your vegetable garden you need to think about: The weather in a given year as well as the climate zone in your area and microclimate in your particular garden. Spreading out the work so you do not give yourself too much to do at one time. Making sure you can harvest food over as long a period as possible. Your year-round planting schemes and when crops need to be harvested and removed to make way for the next round of planting. Whether you are sowing indoors, undercover in a greenhouse or polytunnel, under cloches or outdoors in the open. Bearing these things in mind then, here is a list of sowings, plantings and other jobs that you might consider doing each month: January Tomato seedlings You might not think about the gardening year beginning in January. Spring is still some time off, even in the warmest parts of the UK, but there is already plenty to be done this month. Order your annual fruit, vegetable, herb and flower seeds for early spring planting if you have not already done so. If you do not yet have a garden plan in place, now is a great time to start working on your design and plans. Decide what, where and how you intend to grow, plan out any new growing areas, and devise plans for crop choices, companion planting, crop rotation etc. for the coming year. If you plan to start growing vegetables for the first time this year, make sure you have a composting system and rainwater harvesting system in place. Think about adding a greenhouse or polytunnel in your garden to prolong the growing season and make it easier to grow food year-round in the UK. Consider starting to chit your potatoes on a cool windowsill so that they will develop shoots before it is time to plant them out in your garden. This month, you may also consider sowing tomatoes and peppers indoors. Doing so can give you a head start and help you ensure you get a worthwhile crop by the end of our short growing season. Consider placing cloches or row covers over the soil/growing areas outdoors to help warm up the area before you start planting your earliest crops outdoors. “It is easy to over commit when planning in winter,” says Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly. “Get a calendar or diary specifically for your vegetable growing plans and then work out what your time commitment will be, particularly at peak times. Be realistic about how much time you will have and prioritise if necessary.” February Pepper seedlings indoors Spring is not yet here, and in most areas, the garden will still be well and truly in winter’s grip. However it is not too early to get things prepared for the year ahead, and you can potentially even start sowing too. Order all your seeds for spring if you have not already done so. Make sure your composting system and rainwater harvesting system are up and running. Consider constructing your undercover growing area if you have not done so already. Take the chance to create new growing areas before the main growing season gets underway. Decide whether you will be growing only annuals, or a range of perennial crops. Make choices regarding whether you will grow in the ground, in raised beds or in containers. Consider taking a ‘no dig’ approach and building up new growing areas on top of the soil so you disturb this precious ecosystem as little as possible. Prepare existing beds and growing areas ready for planting. (Mulching with good quality organic matter such as homemade compost, leaf mould or well-rotted manure, or chopped and dropped green manures that were in place over winter.) Think about starting chitting potatoes if you have not already done so. Sow tomatoes and peppers indoors if you have not already done so. Start sowing some seeds such as leeks and onions indoors now. Consider sowing broad beans and peas indoors to plant out (sowing indoors rather than direct sowing can avoid issues with rodents and other pests). Sort out all your seeds and tools and get organised for the busy spring period ahead. Take the time to learn more about your garden before the spring, and think about how you can attract more wildlife throughout the year. March Sowing seeds indoors In March, it can still be rather chilly, but the first hints of spring are definitely in the air. It is a little to early to sow most crops outdoors – but there is still plenty to think about this month: Make sure garden beds are ready for spring planting. Ensure that you know when the last frost date is in your area, which will determine exactly when you should sow different crops. Prepare existing beds, weed, and mulch if you have not already done so. Chit first early potatoes and towards the end of the month, consider planting them in a polytunnel or outdoors in milder areas. As long as soil is not waterlogged or frozen, plant alliums such as onion (sets), garlic and shallots. Direct sow such plants as early carrots, parsnips, lettuces and other leafy greens, radishes, peas, and broad beans, under cloches or under cover in more southern or protected warmer areas. Consider sowing lettuces and leafy greens, peas, broad beans, brassicas crops (members of the cabbage family,) indoors or under cover, to plant out after the last frost date in your area. This is a good time to think about making a wildlife pond, or creating other wildlife-friendly features in your garden. April Planting potatoes April, for many of us, is a busy time in our gardens – the weather is starting to warm, and we may well have our last frosts this month. “Now is a busy time for gardeners!” adds Hannah Reid, a Gardener and Blogger. “The busy months of Spring and crazy mass sowings are almost done, but now there are so many seedlings to look after. “I have a lot of seedlings to look after this year, not just my own allotment and Träkol, but I also have seedlings for our community allotment garden at Hampton Court to keep alive.” As things begin to warm up, here are some of the jobs for the vegetable garden: Direct sow many cool season crops as soon as the weather warms, including radishes, carrots, parsnips, beetroot, lettuces, brassicas, broad beans, peas and more. Harden off seedlings of these crops sown indoors or undercover before planting them out. Continue to sow lettuce, radishes and other quick crops under cover for successional harvests. Sow companion crops like herbs and marigolds indoors and plant out once the weather warms where you live. Prick out seedlings and pot up or plant out when they get their first true leaves. Pot up indoors sown tomatoes and peppers as required. Plant out potatoes this month if you have not already done so. Use sticks or other supports to provide a structure for peas to climb as they grow. Thin carrots/radishes/parsnips/beetroot that were direct sown to give the remaining roots space to grow. Keep on top of the weeding as the weather warms up. Apply mulches to cut down on weeding. If you have a polytunnel or greenhouse, make sure it is clean, water more frequently as the weather warms, and start leaving the doors open for ventilation on sunny days. May Young cucurbit plant “As I write this, we are enjoying spring and all the excitement it brings,” says Joe Harrison, Garden Writer & Blogger. “The frantic period of sowing, potting on and planting out is in full swing and it’s so much fun and very rewarding. “At this point in the year, we have sown leeks, parsnips, beetroot, pumpkins, sweetcorn, beans and planted our potatoes to name a few.” In May, there may already be a few lettuce leaves and bits and pieces to harvest in your garden. “It’s May and I’ve just planted in my courgettes and squashes now the frosts are over,” shares Ann-Marie Powell, award-winning Garden Designer. “I’m growing various types of squashes and tromboncinos this year.” Here are some jobs to think about doing in your vegetable garden this month: Make sure you water well as the weather warms. Consider setting up an efficient drip irrigation system in dry areas or undercover. Plant out brassicas, leeks and other crops or companion crops started indoors into their final growing positions. Sow runner beans, French beans, summer squash, courgettes, cucumbers, sweetcorn, and other summer crops indoors or under cover and harden off and plant out from the end of the month (depending on where you live). Make frames, trellises or supports for climbing plants like beans so areas are ready for planting. Thin out and eat lettuce, spinach and other leafy greens that were direct sown. Thin beetroots and eat the baby beetroots you thin in a spring salad. Continue to direct sow lettuce, radishes and other quick crops for successional harvests. Earth up and mulch around your potatoes as the plants grow. Weed carefully around onions, garlic and other alliums to reduce competition. Stay on top of weeds around your garden – and remember, many of those provide additional edible yields. Gather weeds and put them in a bucket of water to make a liquid fertiliser or plant feed for your crops. June Tomatoes outdoors Things are warming up, and this is a great time in a vegetable garden. “At this time of the year, you can virtually grow anything,” says Gerald Stratford, author of Big Veg. “We’re almost out of the danger of the frost zone, you might still be unlucky if you live in certain parts of the UK, but we are pretty much clear.” If things have gone well, this is the month when you will likely start harvesting in earnest – a wide range of different crops. “By this point in the year, the list is long for the veggies in my allotment,” says Hannah. “I have multiple different varieties of squash, kale, cabbage, peas, runner beans, french beans, chillies, peppers, cucumbers, onions and garlic.” Kathy Slack, a Food Writer, also has a garden full of veggies at this point in the year: “The courgettes are coming on nicely and nestled amongst them are lettuces, salad rocket in great swathes and some sweetcorn. “My broad beans, peas and green beans are getting tall and in the cold frame, I’m hoping the cucumber will ramble high as well.” The garden should start to fill out with summer crops as these are planted out alongside cool season ones. This month: Consider planting second early potatoes in containers or grow bags under cover (or with protection as winter approaches) from mid-June onwards for a Christmas potato crop. Plant out summer crops such as tomatoes, sweetcorn, squash, beans etc. grown indoors if you have not already done so. Consider direct sowing other flowers or choosing summer bedding plants as companions for your vegetable crops. Pinch out the side shoots from tomato plants and feed with a potash-rich, organic fertiliser when the first trusses begin to form flowers and fruits. Start to harvest lettuce and other leafy greens, peas, broad beans, first early potatoes etc. Continue to sow salad leaves every couple of weeks over summer for a continuous harvest. Replenish mulches and replant as spaces open up. Try to avoid bare soil as much as possible. Make sure to pay attention to water and ventilation in an undercover growing area. Keep doors open and consider damping down paths etc. on really hot days. July Kale seedling After midsummer, there will likely be less sowing to do in your garden, but you may still sow a few crops for the seasons ahead. “If you’re new to gardening, you could potentially jump the gun and skin the sowing process,” shares Gerald. “This will help to give you confidence. I would recommend that you go to the plant section and, instead of buying a packet of seeds, buy a couple of small plants ready to plant out in the summer months.” Your harvesting will likely be in full swing. Here are some vegetable garden jobs to undertake in July: Pinch off the growing tips from squash and courgette plants to encourage them to bush out. Continue to fertilise and pinch off side shoots on tomato plants. Train cucumbers and other crops to grow up their supports. Harvest garlic when the tops start to yellow and flop over on over a third of the crop. Continue to harvest your fruits and vegetables as they mature. You should be able to harvest a much wider range of produce this month. Deadhead companion flowers in your vegetable garden to keep them blooming longer. Tidy up the debris of fallen flowers and foliage, especially in undercover growing areas, to reduce the risk of fungal disease taking hold. Make sure you continue to water well over the warmest summer months. Sow brassicas and other leafy greens for autumn/winter. Turn compost regularly and add water if necessary to keep it aerated and moist throughout the summer. Be on the lookout for pests and diseases throughout your garden, so you can get on top of problems quickly if they occur. August Bright lights chard seedlings August is another abundant month in your garden. However, overabundance can be an issue, and this is a month when certain pests and problems can rear their ugly heads. To stay on top of things in this hot summer month: Harvest maincrop potatoes as leaves begin to yellow and die back. Continue to harvest other crops like root crops, beans, tomatoes etc. as they mature. Feed your peppers and cucurbits with a high potassium organic feed when fruits start to form. Pinch out the growing tips of your tomatoes and runner beans. Make sure that you are making the most of what you grow – deal with any gluts (of runner beans for example) by freezing them, or use other methods such as canning or dehydration to preserve different crops. Continue to sow brassicas and other leafy greens for autumn/winter. Remove spent crops and consider sowing leafy greens or other crops for overwintering. Cut back, divide and harvest companion herbs in the vegetable garden. Consider collecting ripened seed from various crops to sow next year. Continue to look out for pests and disease. Look out for late blight on tomatoes, for example. Keep watering and ventilating undercover growing areas well in hot weather. Make sure there is always a water source in your garden for birds and other wildlife, and make sure your garden is wildlife-friendly to maintain biodiversity, as this can aid in pest control and make a garden easier to care for and maintain. September Pea shoots In September, summer begins to fade, but there is still a lot to do in your garden. For example, you should: Pinch out the growing tips of your tomatoes if you have not already done so. Remove leaves casting shade on squash, pumpkins etc to help them ripen fully. Cut down on watering tomatoes and take other steps to encourage green tomatoes to ripen. Harvest any maincrop potatoes that remain in the ground (or containers). Continue to harvest other remaining summer crops in your garden. Keep saving seeds for next year. Sow winter peas and broad beans for overwintering (in a polytunnel or outdoors in milder areas). Towards the end of the month, consider starting to plant winter onion sets. Plant out winter crops in place of summer ones where you have not already done so. Plan and place protection for growing areas outdoors where this will be required to protect winter crops. Consider sowing green manures or cover crops to protect the soil over the winter months where crops will not be grown. October Planting onion sets Things are getting chillier and the days rapidly shorten, but October brings plenty of new things to think about in your vegetable garden. This month you should consider undertaking these tasks, preparing for and making use of the changes the seasons bring: Plant onion sets for overwintering if you have not already done so. And plant shallots and garlic and mulch with autumn leaves. Harvest and clear summer crops before the first frost. Continue to sow winter leafy green vegetables (and protect with cloches or row covers when frosts threaten). These will feed you through the ‘hungry gap’ next year. Clean and clear as spaces open up in an undercover growing area. Bring tender companion plants under cover before frost threatens. Check over your garden thoroughly and undertake any necessary repairs outdoors before winter arrives. Rake garden leaves and make use of them – you can use them as mulch, add them to your composting system, or keep them in a separate bin or container to make leaf mould. Reduce the amount of watering you do as the days get shorter and the nights get colder. If you have a wildlife pond, consider netting it to keep leaves and debris from falling into it. Store your autumn harvest and make preserves using the produce you have grown. November Planting garlic The first frosts will likely have occurred, and winter will be fast approaching, but the gardening year is not over just yet. Here are some things you might be thinking about this month: Harvest parsnips, brassicas etc. after they have been sweetened by the first frosts. Provide support for top-heavy brassicas so they do not blow over in autumn and winter storms. Plant garlic bulbs if you have not already done so. Think about adding extra protection such as cloches for plants growing in a polytunnel or greenhouse. Consider adding eco-friendly lighting to an undercover growing area so you can check on things after dark. Think about heating your polytunnel or greenhouse if you want to try growing more tender or exotic plants. Take care of winter crops still in active growth, remembering that some watering (though much less than in summer) will still be required. Do any repairs around your garden if you have not already done so. Gather and make leaf mould or compost from autumn leaves if you have not already done this last month. Consider planting perennials, shrubs and trees in planting schemes that could improve your vegetable garden for next year (such as in windbreak hedgerows or shelter belts, for example). December Brussels sprouts Even during the dormant phase, in the depths of winter, there are still some things you can get on with in your garden. Some jobs to think about this month include: Continue to check up on and tend any crops you have growing in an undercover area or beneath cloches. If your greenhouse or polytunnel is covered in snow, remove it to avoid damage and make sure light can shine through. Provide protection for leafy winter greens growing outdoors when cold snaps threaten. Cover brassicas and other leafy greens with netting to protect them from birds. Take off yellow leaves from brassicas to reduce problems and prevent the spread of disease. Harvest winter lettuces and other vegetables from undercover growing areas. Dig up potatoes planted for Christmas, to enjoy during your festive midwinter feast, along with other treats from winter stores. Harvest sprouts and other winter brassicas for winter meals. Uproot parsnips and leeks still in garden beds before the ground freezes solid.
Learn more
Grow Lunaria (AKA 'Honesty Plant') For A Low-Maintenance Option In Difficult Areas
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Lunaria Types Why Grow Lunaria? How To Grow Lunaria Ongoing Plant Care References Lunaria is a flowering plant that in the language of flowers represents honesty, sincerity and prosperity. Honesty is a useful and interesting plant that can find a place in many gardens. There are actually two different plants called honesty: one is annual (or biennial) honesty – Lunaria annua, and the other is perennial honesty – Lunaria rediviva. In this guide, we will discuss both of these plants. By the end of this guide, you should have a much better idea about which, if either, of these useful and attractive plants might be a good choice for your garden. Overview Botanical Name Lunaria Common Name(s) Honesty Plant Plant Type Annual / Perennial Flower Native Area Europe, North America Foliage Triangular-ovate leaves Flowers Purple 4-petalled flowers, followed by silvery seed cases When To Sow March, April, May, June, September, October Flowering Months May, June Lunaria is a genus of flowering plants that are actually in the Brassicaceae family – this is the family that also includes the edible brassicas that we might find in a vegetable garden, such as cabbage, kale, broccoli, cauliflower, kohlrabi, turnips, mustard etc.1 This genus actually includes four species, two of which are interesting for UK gardeners. The other two, that we will not be covering in this guide, are L. elongata and the rare Balkan species L. telekiana. Lunaria means ‘like the moon’ – a name which refers to the decorative seed pods of these plants. The disc-shaped, silvery pods also explain many other common names for the plants, and its association with silver coins, or money. These plants are native to central and southern Europe and North America, but they are widely grown as ornamental plants in gardens, and have become naturalised in many temperate climate zones outside their native range.2 Lunaria Types Annual Honesty Botanical Name: Lunaria annua Annual or biennial honesty is an attractive garden plant that grows up to around 90cm tall with a spread of around 30cm. It has coarse, pointed-oval shaped, hairy leaves with marked serrations along the edges. In the spring and summer, the plants bear racemes of white or violet flowers which are followed by showy green-light brown translucent disc-shaped silicles (not botanically speaking seedpods though they are often referred to as such). Once ripe and dry, seeds fall from these silicles leaving a silvery membrane that can sometimes persist on the plants throughout the winter. The name ‘honesty’ emerged in the sixteenth century and it is believed to relate to the translucence of the silicle membranes.3 In the US it is commonly called ‘Silver Dollars’. In French, ‘monnaie du pape’ meaning ‘Pope’s Money’. In Denmark and Dutch-speaking countries as ‘Coins of Judas’. Perennial Honesty Botanical Name: Lunaria rediviva Perennial honesty is another popular garden plant. It grows up to 1m in height and has large, pointed oval-shaped leaves with marked serrations, similar to the above. It has clusters of fragrant, pale pink flowers that are borne in the spring. Rather than having circular silicles, this plant has longer pods that taper to points at both ends. But these pods, like those of the above, have a bright whitish-silver appearance that can have great ornamental appeal. Like other perennial plants, L. rediviva is a great option for those who want to create long-lasting gardens that won’t require a lot of work, since it will come back and flower over a number of years. Why Grow Lunaria? Wildlife Benefits L. annua and L. rediviva are both very useful wildlife-friendly plants and are considered to be excellent choices for wildflower meadow-type planting schemes and wildlife gardens. This not only has ecological benefits, but can also aid those trying to grow their own. Since increasing biodiversity helps keep the ecosystem in balance and aids in organic pest control. These are great plants for attracting lepidoptera (butterflies and moths) and other pollinators. It is caterpillar food for the caterpillars of the orange tip butterfly, for example. Ornamental Reasons The plants are both also great ornamental choices. They add interest not only during the flowering period but also beyond, as the attractive silicles form. What is more, the dried seed pods are also very attractive in floral arrangements, and are often used in cut flower displays. They could also therefore be good choices to add to a cut flower garden. Edible Yield L. annua can also be interesting for those cultivating an edible garden. The seeds have a strong and pungent flavour and are used as a mustard substitute. The root of the plant is sometimes also cultivated and eaten. Low Maintenance L. rediviva is a tough perennial, and a great choice for low-maintenance gardens. Like other perennial plants, it can be a good choice for low-maintenance wildflower meadows or perennial beds or borders, and can be suitable for areas of a garden where other forms of ground cover may be difficult to establish. Trap Crops Another thing to consider is that, as members of the Brassicaceae family, these plants may be beneficial in an organic garden as trap crops – distracting pests that prey on edible brassicas and thereby providing a distraction to help in keeping culinary crops safe. Unless seeds are collected, both of these plants will often self-seed readily. How To Grow Lunaria The plants can cope with an exposed location, but if you want to retain the attractive silvery membranes on the plants for as long as possible then they are best grown in a more sheltered spot. One thing to note if you plan to incorporate this plant into a kitchen garden is that it should not be grown in the same bed as brassicas, and annual brassicas should be rotated in a crop rotation scheme. Honesty works well in a spring woodland border and can be great when grown alongside tulips or other spring flowering bulbs. “I love to establish swathes of white and pale colour flowered Lunaria under the dappled shade of a tree, as there is something mesmerising in the way the broken sunlight through a fresh spring canopy catches these flowers,” shares Master Horticulturist Dan Ori. They also work well alongside Alliums, geraniums and forget-me-nots, for example. It can also look good amongst naturalistic meadow planting schemes with grasses and native wildflowers. Ongoing Plant Care Lunaria are great low-maintenance plants and really do require very little care. Give them a little water if the weather it particularly dry. But generally, you can leave them to get on with things and focus on more fussy plants. The one thing to make sure of is that the Lunaria do not have ‘wet feet’ – waterlogging is one problem that they cannot abide. Like common edible brassicas, this plant can be affected by club root. Other than that, they will not usually encounter many problems – in fact, they can be so low maintenance that in some areas, they can even start to be considered as a weed! However, as it is generally untroubled by pests, you will find that both types of Lunaria can be very useful and attractive additions to your garden. If you do not already grow Lunaria in your garden, it is certainly a good option to consider. Honesty is something to cultivate in all areas of life – including in your garden! References 1. Todd, J. (n.d.). Lunaria annua. Oxford University Plants. Retrieved March 21, 2023, from https://herbaria.plants.ox.ac.uk/bol/plants400/Profiles/kl/Lunaria 2. Lunaria annua. (n.d.). Missouri Botanical Garden. Retrieved March 21, 2023, from https://www.missouribotanicalgarden.org/PlantFinder/PlantFinderDetails.aspx?taxonid=278072 3. The Brassica family and their useful plants; (2022, July 3). Wonderful Weed Weekly. Retrieved March 21, 2023, from https://wonderfulweedweekly.co.uk/the-brassica-family-and-their-useful-plants-part-3/
Learn more
Horticulturists Share 10 Ornamental Grass Types For Movement In The Garden
IN THIS GUIDE Choosing Ornamental Grasses 1) Carex 2) Stipa 3) Pennisetum 4) Festuca 5) Molinia 6) Miscanthus 7) Hakonechloa 8) Cortaderia 9) Calamagrostis 10) Deschampsia Where To Use Them Why Grow Ornamental Grasses? References Choosing ornamental grasses for your garden can be a great way to add drama and style. “I love ornamental grasses for the softness and movement they can provide in a garden,” Manoj Maldé, award-winning Garden Designer, says. We offer some things to think about when choosing ornamental grasses in the UK – help you think about why and where you might use them in your garden, while exploring ten of the best ornamental grasses to consider. To help inform this guide we interviewed Hayley Willerton, the Owner of The Alpine and Grass Nursery. “I love their versatility, low maintenance, drought tolerance and amazing range that can suit both a large garden and a small trough,” says Hayley, when asked why she is so passionate about growing grasses. “There’s a grass for everyone.” Choosing Ornamental Grasses “I’ve spent most of my life training myself not to have favourites because I have to adapt to the locations in which I’m growing my plants, so I can’t be biased about which ones I love,” shares Neil Lucas, an ornamental grass specialist. “Having said that, there are always plants that you love.” When choosing ornamental grasses for your garden, you should consider: Whether you want annual or perennial grasses. If evergreen or deciduous species are right for you. Sunlight and shade conditions in the area where the grass is to grow. What type of soil you have, and its characteristics. If you want an ornamental grass to grow in the ground or in containers. “I’m a big fan of grasses,” says TV Presenter and Garden Designer Danny Clarke. “They give you some movement in a garden, which also gives an added touch of sense. “The sound of the grass in the breeze is great.” “In containers, it’s a good idea to choose grasses that will keep their shape, combine well with others and stay evergreen for an all-year-round display,” says Hayley. “Whilst those in the ground will draw water from the soil, those planted in containers will require regular watering, especially in drier times.” “When watering grasses, it is best to do this early in the day so that their leaves get a chance to dry out during the day. Calamagrostis brachytricha “For success when planting grasses into the garden, it is important to consider whether the grasses you choose are cool season grasses, such as Carex testacea and Stipa tenuissima, or warm season grasses, such as Panicum virgatum ‘Shenandoah’ and Calamagrostis brachytricha. “Warm-season grasses are best planted when the average daily temperatures have started to rise, whereas the cool-season types can be planted much earlier.” Neil is also a fan of Panicum grasses, as he shares: “My current favourite plant is Panicum amarum ‘Sea Mist’, which is a Knoll Gardens introduction and I’m really delighted at how it looks in the garden.” So, if you’ve decided ornamental grasses are right for your garden – which should you choose? “Some of my personal favourites are Pennisetum macrourum, Hakonechloa macra and Calamagrostis varia,” says Manoj. Here are ten more genera that could provide the answers you are looking for and help you to find the right plants for the right places: 1) Carex Carex oshimensis Technically a sedge rather than a grass, Carex has flowering stems that are triangular and solid rather than round and hollow in cross-section.1 But this plant is grass-like and often grouped in and categorised with ornamental grasses. The arching leaves of these plants, produced in clumps, can vary dramatically in colour and can have different edging or stripes. Most carex will prefer consistently moist soil in sun or light shade, but there are a few which like wet soil, and others that thrive in acid conditions. Carex elata ‘Aurea’ “Most grasses will not cope with shade or prolonged damp but Carex really expands the range of options for grass-like planting in these conditions,” says RHS Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly. “I like to grow Carex divulsa and C. remota in damp shade because I like the natural feel that they provide and because they are very tolerant of a range of conditions. “There are variegated options of Carex as well and the genera Luzula and Acorus also provide attractive options in similar conditions.” Carex to consider include: C. comans ‘Bronze Leaved’ C. dipsacea ‘Dark Horse’ C. elata ‘Aurea’ (Pictured above) C. oshimensis ‘Evergold’ C. siderosticta ‘Variegata’ 2) Stipa Stipa is a genus of grasses that provides several more great options for UK gardens. These are perennial grasses that have fluffy, feathery or oat-like flowering beds. Some are deciduous, and some are evergreen. They come in various sizes and so can work well in many gardens. Stipa calamagrostis (Rough Feather Grass) Stipa tenuissima (Syn. Nasella tenuissima), Mexican feather grass, is a deciduous ornamental grass forming tufts of thread-like leaves that are around 60cm in height. It has narrow, arched panicles of feather-like flowers in the summer. It will grow well in any medium or light, moderately moist yet well-drained soil in full sun. Other Stipa to consider include: S. gigantea ‘Pixie’ (Golden oats ‘Pixie’) S. gigantea ‘Gold Fontaene’ (Golden Oats ‘Gold Fontaene’) S. calamagrostis (Rough Feather Grass) S. pseudoichu S. ichu (Syn. Jarava ichu) 3) Pennisetum Pennisetum advena Commonly known as ‘fountain grasses’, this is another type of ornamental grass well worth considering in a UK garden. Pennisetum orientale ‘Fairy Tails’ Pennisetum orientale ‘Fairy Tails’ is a perennial, deciduous grass that can grow up to around 1.2m tall. It forms quite upright clumps of greyish-green leaves and forms arching silvery-pinkish flower heads that fade to a soft beige by the time of the first frosts. Pennisetum advena ‘Fireworks’ P. advena ‘Fireworks’ is a more dramatic option, with leaves of deep burgundy red that fade to pink at the edges when grown in full sun. The red flower plumes fade to brown gradually over the autumn months. Other interesting Pennisetum ornamental grasses include: P. villosum (bunny tail-like flowers; great for stroking). P. orientale P. thunbergii ‘Red Buttons’ P. macrourum (African Feather Grass) P. alopecuroides ‘Red Head’ 4) Festuca Festuca ornamental grasses can be either herbaceous or evergreen. They have linear, often strikingly hued leaves and form brownish flower heads in summer. One particularly interesting Festuca is Festuca glauca ‘Blaufuchs’. It has dramatic steely blue needle-like leaves, and forms compact tufts around 20cm in height. It will grow in almost any reasonably well-drained soil in full sun and can be great for rock gardens or containers. Another interesting small Festuca glauca is ‘Golden Toupee’, which has bright yellow leaves in spring which fade to greyish green. Other ornamental grasses within this group include: F. amethystina (Tufted Fescue) F. gigantea (Giant Fescue) F. arundinacea F. caesia F. violacea 5) Molinia If you are looking for a British native ornamental grass then Molinia caerulea (Purple Moor Grass) is a great option to consider. This belongs to a genus with just two herbaceous perennial grasses. It forms clumps of erect leaves up to around 1.2m tall, with tall spikes of purplish flowers which emerge in the summer. Molinia arundinacea ‘Skyracer’ In autumn, the foliage turns a zingy yellow colour. Cultivars of Molinia caerulea include ‘Karl Foerster’, ‘ Skyracer’ (pictured) and ‘Windspiel’. 6) Miscanthus Miscanthus sinensis Miscanthus are common ornamental grasses for UK gardens. They grow well in a range of locations and provide visual appeal over a long period. Compact varietals work very well to break up borders, or even in containers, while larger and grander varietals are best grown as isolated specimen plants so their elegance can be admired from 360 degrees. They will flower best in full sun and dislike having wet feet. M. sinensis ‘Zebrinus’ Miscanthus to consider when looking for ornamental grasses for your garden include: M. sinensis ‘Zebrinus’ (Pictured) M. sinensis ‘Ghana’ M. sinensis ‘Morning Light’ M. sinensis ‘Flamingo’ M. sinensis ‘Kleine Fontane’ 7) Hakonechloa Hakonechloa is a type of perennial, deciduous grass. It forms compact tufts of arching stems. In the late summer and autumn, it has arching flower panicles, which are obvious in some cultivars and insignificant in others. Hakone Grass Hakonechloa macra, also known as Hakone Grass, is known for its tough and eye-catching foliage. Unlike many other grasses, this is a great choice for moist and shady conditions. The foliage can come in a range of hues, sometimes with variegation. Options for those looking for ornamental grasses for a more moist and shady spot include: H. macra ‘Alboaurea’ H. macra ‘All Gold’ H. macra ‘Aureole’ H. macra ‘Naomi’ H. macra ‘Nicholas’ 8) Cortaderia Cortaderia, or Pampas Grasses, are another well-known genus of ornamental grasses well worth considering for many gardens. They are large evergreen grass species which typically form grand, compact tufts of rough-edged leaves and bear grand silvery or pinkish panicles of flowers. Cortaderia selloana Cortaderia selloana is a grand and dramatic plant selection, growing up to 2.5-3m high, and spreading into clumps 1.8m wide or more. Its grand plumes of flowers are 45-90cm long, silvery-white and often tinged with pink or purple. But it will need full sun and a rich, deep, fertile, well-drained soil to perform at its best. If you want something smaller and a bit more manageable, consider C. selloana ‘Pumila’, which forms clumps of leaves around 45cm in height, then sends up silky, cream-coloured plumes on stems 1.2m high in late summer. 9) Calamagrostis Calamagrostis is a genus of grasses that also provides several great options when it comes to ornamental grasses for UK gardens. These are perennial grasses that form tufts of linear leaves, with upright stems which bear dense flowering panicles in summer. Karl Foerster Grass Calamagrostis x acutiflora ‘Karl Foerster’ is one common option to consider. It is a striking grass prized for its plentiful flower stems that stand up well to a height of up to 1.8m without support. 10) Deschampsia Deschampsia grasses are tufted grasses that can be either deciduous or evergreen. They have linear or thread-like leaves and open flowering panicles that form during the summer. Deschampsia cespitosa Deschampsia cespitosa is a deciduous ornamental grass called ‘Tufted Hair Grass’. Interesting cultivars include: D. cespitosa ‘Schottland’ D. cespitosa ‘Goldschlier’ D. cespitosa ‘Tatra Gold’ D. cespitosa ‘Waldschatt’ D. cespitosa ‘Bronzeschleier’ Of course, the options mentioned above are just a small selection of the many ornamental grasses that you could consider for your garden. But these should give you a place to start if you are seeking out some attractive ornamental grass varieties for your beds and borders. Where To Use Them Ornamental grasses can be used in a wide range of different gardens. The good news is that there are so many grasses to choose from that you can find one that is suited to almost every position. There are ornamental grasses that grow best in full sun, and others that can cope with shade. Some thrive in very dry conditions, while others love a water-retentive or even boggy site, perhaps even as a marginal beside a garden pond. You can find dramatic grasses that grow metres tall, and others that are ideal for small gardens or containers that are much more restricted in size. Some grow just 30cm or so high. Taller grasses will do best in a sheltered position, as this will prevent their long flower spikes from becoming damaged by wind. You can use ornamental grasses as individual specimen plants, or in mixed beds or borders. But, arguably, ornamental grasses look at their very best when planted together in drifts of naturalistic, prairie-style planting in a sunny border. They can also be beneficially planted to partially screen off certain areas of a garden from view, or to obscure unsightly views from the garden. Why Grow Ornamental Grasses? Ornamental grasses are great low-maintenance plants. Many can grow even in problematic locations, on even the poorest of soils. They take little work, are bothered by few pests or diseases, and often provide visual interest for most, if not all, of the year.2 They can break up and soften other planting, especially dense floral borders… They can be used to relieve stolid, overly floral and old-fashioned planting and give a garden a natural but more modern appearance and atmosphere. And ornamental grasses can often also bring benefits for local wildlife too – providing them with shelter, and seeds to eat later in the year – especially if they form part of a broader and more varied perennial planting scheme.3 They can work very well in drifts interspersed with perennial prairie wildflowers, for example. References 1. Uyterhoeven, S. (2011, November 11). Sedges and Grasses. Plant Talk. Retrieved March 28, 2023, from https://www.nybg.org/blogs/plant-talk/2011/11/tip-of-the-week/sedges-and-grasses/ 2. Russ, K. (2017, August 27). Ornamental Grasses and Grass-like Plants. Home & Garden Information Center | Clemson University, South Carolina. Retrieved March 28, 2023, from https://hgic.clemson.edu/factsheet/ornamental-grasses-and-grass-like-plants/ 3. Wildlife benefits of uncut grasslands. (n.d.). The Wildlife Trust for Lancashire, Manchester and North Merseyside. Retrieved March 28, 2023, from https://www.lancswt.org.uk/wildlife-benefits-uncut-grasslands
Learn more
Here's 30 Perennial Flowers That Grow Well In Shade According To Horticulturists
IN THIS GUIDE Deep Or Partial Shade? Damp Or Dry Shade? Shady Perennials That Bloom In Spring Shady Perennials That Bloom in Summer Shady Perennials That Bloom In Autumn Shady Perennials That Bloom In Winter Tips When Choosing Perennials For Shade Patterns & Colour Scheme Benefitting Wildlife References In any garden, one key thing essential to success is choosing the right plants for the right places. The best perennial flowers that grow in shade are not the same as those that will grow best in full sun, for example. First of all, you need to think about what type of shade you are looking at. Deep Or Partial Shade? You might be looking for perennial flowers that will do well in deep shade, in a north-facing border for example. Or you might be looking for perennial flowers that will bloom in partial shade, or in the dappled shade below trees and shrubs. The type of shade in the location where the flowers will be planted is important. Damp Or Dry Shade? Another factor is whether you are looking at damp shade, or dry shade, since the moisture content of the soil will also be important in determining which plants are right for you. Of course, other characteristics of the soil will also come into play. You should think about soil type, and whether it is moisture retentive and fertile, or particularly free draining. Soil pH is another important factor to consider. In this article, we will explore how to choose the best perennial flowers for the shady sight in question, then go on to discuss thirty potential options that bloom throughout the different seasons of the year. Shady Perennials That Bloom In Spring Let’s begin then, by looking at some of the excellent options to consider for spring. These perennial flowering plants are all excellent choices for some colour and interest in the springtime months: 1) Aquilegia ALSO KNOWN AS: COLUMBINE SUNLIGHT: PARTIAL OR DAPPLED SHADE SOIL: RICH, MOIST, FREE-DRAINING (NOT TOO WET OR DRY) 2) Bergenia ALSO KNOWN AS: ELEPHANT’S EARS SUNLIGHT: FULL OR PARTIAL SHADE SOIL: MOIST, WELL-DRAINING 3) Brunnera ALSO KNOWN AS: SIBERIAN BUGLOSS SUNLIGHT: FULL OR PART SHADE SOIL: MOIST BUT WELL-DRAINING 4) Daffodils ALSO KNOWN AS: NARCISSUS SUNLIGHT: LIGHT OR DAPPLED SHADE SOIL: WELL-DRAINED 5) Lamium ALSO KNOWN AS: DEAD NETTLES SUNLIGHT: FULL OR PART SHADE SOIL: MOIST, FREE-DRAINING 6) Primroses ALSO KNOWN AS: PRIMULA SUNLIGHT: PARTIAL OR DAPPLED SHADE SOIL: MOIST, WELL-DRAINED 7) Pulmonaria ALSO KNOWN AS: COMMON LUNGWORT SUNLIGHT: PART OR FULL SHADE SOIL: MOIST, WELL-DRAINED SOIL Shady Perennials That Bloom in Summer Next, let’s take a look at some of the best perennial flowers for shade that will bloom during the summer months: 8) Acanthus mollis ALSO KNOWN AS: BEAR’S BREECHES SUNLIGHT: PART OR FULL SHADE SOIL: WELL-DRAINED 9) Alchemilla mollis ALSO KNOWN AS: LADY’S MANTLE SUNLIGHT: FULL OR PART SHADE SOIL: MOIST, FREE-DRAINING 10) Astrantia maxima ALSO KNOWN AS: LARGEST MASTERWORT SUNLIGHT: FULL OR PART SHADE SOIL: MOIST BUT FREE-DRAINING OR POORLY DRAINED AREAS 11) Beesia calthifolia Meneerke bloem, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons1 ALSO KNOWN AS: MARIGOLD-LEAVED BEESIA SUNLIGHT: PART SHADE SOIL: GOOD QUALITY, MOIST BUT WELL-DRAINED LOAM 12) Campanula persicifolia ALSO KNOWN AS: PEACH-LEAVED BELLFLOWER SUNLIGHT: PART OR DAPPLED SHADE SOIL: MOIST, WELL-DRAINED (NOT TOO WET OR DRY) 13) Comfrey ALSO KNOWN AS: Symphytum officinale SUNLIGHT: ANY SOIL: MOST CONDITIONS 14) Hostas ALSO KNOWN AS: PLANTAIN LILY SUNLIGHT: FULL OR PART SHADE SOIL: MOIST 15) Hydrangea anomala ALSO KNOWN AS: JAPANESE CLIMBING HYDRANGEA SUNLIGHT: FULL OR PART SHADE SOIL: WELL-DRAINING, NEUTRAL TO ACIDIC 16) Geraniums ALSO KNOWN AS: CRANESBILL SUNLIGHT: PART OR DAPPLED SHADE SOIL: MOIST, FREE-DRAINING 17) Malva ALSO KNOWN AS: COMMON MALLOW SUNLIGHT: PART OR DAPPLED SHADE SOIL: MOIST, FREE-DRAINING 18) Meconopsis baileyi ALSO KNOWN AS: HIMALAYAN BLUE POPPY SUNLIGHT: PART SHADE SOIL: MOIST, FREE-DRAINING, NEUTRAL TO ACIDIC Shady Perennials That Bloom In Autumn As summer fades, there may be fewer blooms in your shade garden. But here are perennial flowers for shade that will provide blooms into the autumn months: 19) Caryopteris x clandonensis ALSO KNOWN AS: BLUE MIST BUSH SUNLIGHT: LIGHT OR DAPPLED SHADE SOIL: ANY 20) Colchicum autumnale ALSO KNOWN AS: AUTUMN CROCUS SUNLIGHT: LIGHT OR DAPPLED SHADE SOIL: WELL-DRAINING 21) Corydalis ALSO KNOWN AS: BLUE CORYDALIS SUNLIGHT: PART SHADE SOIL: MOIST, FREE-DRAINING 22) Saxifraga fortunei ALSO KNOWN AS: FORTUNE SAXIFRAGE SUNLIGHT: FULL OR PART SHADE SOIL: MOIST, WELL-DRAINED 23) Tradescantia ALSO KNOWN AS: SPIDERWORT SUNLIGHT: FULL OR PART SHADE SOIL: MOIST, WELL-DRAINED Shady Perennials That Bloom In Winter Finally, even in winter, there are perennial flowers that will bloom – even in shady spots. Here are some interesting options to consider: 24) Chaenomeles ALSO KNOWN AS: JAPANESE QUINCE / FLOWERING QUINCE SUNLIGHT: PARTIAL OR DAPPLED SHADE SOIL: MOIST, FREE-DRAINING 25) Chionodoxa ALSO KNOWN AS: GLORY OF THE SNOW SUNLIGHT: DAPPLED SHADE (WORKS WELL BENEATH TREES) SOIL: ANY 26) Hellebore ALSO KNOWN AS: LENTEN ROSE SUNLIGHT: PARTIAL OR DAPPLED SHADE SOIL: MOIST, WELL-DRAINED, NEUTRAL TO ALKALINE 27) Mahonia ALSO KNOWN AS: WINTER SUN SUNLIGHT: DAPPLED OR DEEP SHADE SOIL: ANY 28) Snowdrops ALSO KNOWN AS: GALANTHUS SUNLIGHT: PART SHADE SOIL: MOIST 29) Winter aconites ALSO KNOWN AS: ERANTHIS HYEMALIS SUNLIGHT: PARTIAL SHADE SOIL: MOIST, WELL-DRAINED 30) Witch hazel ALSO KNOWN AS: HAMAMELIS SUNLIGHT: LIGHT OR DAPPLED SHADE SOIL: WELL-DRAINED, NEUTRAL TO ACIDIC Tips When Choosing Perennials For Shade Before you choose perennial flowers for shade, there are a number of questions you need to ask yourself. Are you looking at deep shade, partial shade or dappled shade? What are the climate, microclimate and soil conditions like in your area? What other plants are already growing close by? This may determine not only which flowers will look good, but how well they will do. Certain plants may compete with one another in detrimental ways, while others will benefit one another. Looking at other plants could also give you clues about the environment that might help you in making your decisions. When creating any perennial planting scheme, it is best to start with observation, and an understanding of your site. The better you understand your garden, the better equipped you will be to make the right plant choices. It is also very important to consider your plan holistically – planning from the big picture down to the specifics. Patterns & Colour Scheme Begin with the patterns before drilling down to the details of which individual plants you will choose. It can be helpful to determine a colour scheme and general tone or feel for the design. Of course, this is important because it will help you work out whether plants will fit well within an ornamental scheme. It can also be a good idea to consider lighter, brighter flowers or foliage when planting up a more shaded area, as these will stand out better in lower light conditions. “I tend to use light flowered plants or bright blues in deeper shade as this allows the flowers to stand out,” shares Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly. “I also tend to use foliage with lighter splashes, such as Pulmonaria and Brunnera for the same reason.” Benefitting Wildlife But you should also think beyond aesthetics – You could consider the broader benefits that perennial flowers can bring. For example, they might be beneficial to the soil ecosystem and other plants growing nearby. They might attract pollinators or other beneficial wildlife to your garden. In order to make your garden as wildlife-friendly as possible, it is a good idea to choose plants so that you have flowers in bloom for as much of the year as possible. This means that nectar is available for insects all year round. There are, of course, many more options for perennial flowers for shade that might work well in your garden. But the above list should give you a place to start when choosing the right plants for the right places in your garden. References 1. Attribution-ShareAlike 3.0 Unported (CC BY-SA 3.0). (n.d.). Creative Commons. Retrieved March 21, 2023, from https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/3.0/
Learn more
Potting Soil Types Explained: Get Your Mix Right For Healthy Plant Growth
IN THIS GUIDE What Is Potting Soil? What Are Its Benefits? How To Use Potting Soil What Plants Is Potting Soil Good For? What Are Its Disadvantages? Disposing Of Old Potting Soil Common Reader Questions References Potting soil is the general name given to growing media that is used in pots and containers. Some people will simply refer to potting soil as compost. But this can get a little confusing, since it is not the same as an organic kitchen waste and garden waste compost you would make at home. What Is Potting Soil? The difference is that while a potting soil contains composted materials, it has been especially formulated to provide optimal conditions for plant growth. Often, potting soil will contain a blend of different ingredients. Potting soil can also be a term that is used to refer to a specific type of growing media which is specifically formulated – not just to provide good condition for a wide range of plants – but tailored specifically to cater to the needs of those plants which are in pots or containers. There are a number of different potting soil types available commercially, including: Peat-based options. Peat-free alternatives for the more environmentally minded. Loam-Based or Soil based potting soils. Organic potting mixes for those who really want to do the right thing for people and planet. Ericaceous mixes specifically for acid-loving plants. Mixes specifically for starting seeds. Some commercial potting soils are fairly simple in their composition, while others are more complex and contain other non-organic ingredients.1 It is important to understand that there is a lot of variation – not only in constituent ingredients but also in quality – when it comes to potting soil or potting mix that is commercially available. The term potting soil was first used in print in an 1861 issue of the ‘American Agriculturist’. But this term is also rather misleading, because the potting media is not actually soil at all. Most potting soils are actually soil-free, and those that are loam or soil-based only contain a proportion of soil, which is sterilized and only shares some, not all, characteristics with the soil in your garden. Whether you are potting on indoors sown seeds, or creating a container garden – choosing the right potting soil is key. But it is important to note that environmentally speaking, it is often best to make your own potting soil to fill the pots and containers in your garden. What Are Its Benefits? The benefits of using a potting mix (either commercial or home-made) for your pots and containers is that, if you make the right choices, you can provide optimal conditions for your plants. A good potting soil or potting mix can: Maintain good structure and oxygenation. Manage water availability – with the right balance of moisture retention and drainage for the specific plants you are growing. Provide nutrients for plants in the right quantities over the specific period of time. Different potting mixes will deliver nutrients to your plants for different lengths of time. Some will be depleted of nutrients much more quickly than others. It is important to understand that when growing plants in containers, you will usually have to provide further nutrients to your plants with liquid feeds and other supplements over time. And in certain cases, the potting soil should be replaced entirely with new, nutrient-rich material after a certain length of time. How To Use Potting Soil The first thing to remember is that choosing potting soil or container growing media should be a careful and thoughtful process. “Healthy soil is Absolutely crucial to the growth and health of our plants and trees,” shares Harry Hoblyn, the Head Gardener at Charleston Gardens. Different potting soils have different strengths and weaknesses, and can cater to different needs of different plants. Choosing one should always begin with an understanding of the needs and preferences of the specific plants that you will be growing in terms of moisture, water, soil structure, fertility and pH level. As an organic, sustainable gardener, you should also think about the environmental impacts of the choices you make. This might include avoiding the use of peat-based composts, perhaps also avoiding coir or other materials that have had to travel a long way (resulting in carbon emissions). “I have been growing my houseplants in peat-free mixes since 2017,” shares Jane Perrone, Houseplant Expert. “I use peat-free multipurpose compost with added John Innes called Silvergrow as my base for everything, adding additional materials from there as needed.” You might also consider creating your own potting mixes from locally available ingredients, to avoid purchasing materials for your garden in plastic packaging. “I mix and match the different components according to what I’m doing. That can be a pain, as storing it can be quite bulky, but you can buy readymade mixes too. “Some houseplant shops even have potting mix bars, where you can buy small mixes of things, which is really useful.” Once you have chosen a potting soil, you will, of course, use it to fill plant pots and containers prior to planting (or sowing) into them. Unlike an all-purpose medium, or all-purpose compost, potting soil is specifically used to grow plants in pots or other containers, and not typically used to amend or mulch the soil in a garden. What Plants Is Potting Soil Good For? The plants a particular potting soil is good for will depend on what its ingredients are and its exact composition. A general-purpose potting soil that you purchase (or make yourself) will usually be suitable for a wide range of houseplants, vegetables, herbs, flowers and other plants grown in containers. Some, however, will not be as good for seeds or seedlings. And as mentioned above, some are specifically formulated to meet the needs of acid-loving plants. This is why it is always so important to read the ingredients and information on a pack when you are purchasing a growing medium. And you must have at least a basic understanding of plant needs if you plan on formulating your own. What Are Its Disadvantages? The pros and cons of a potting soil depend very much on its ingredients and composition. As mentioned above, potting soils can vary significantly both in their make-up and their quality. Typically, if you are choosing a commercial brand, you will get what you pay for. Cheaper potting soil does not always represent good value for money, and if you choose a cheap and inferior type then plant health may suffer and you just won’t get the results you hope for. Making your own potting soil without carefully considering the needs of the plants you wish to grow can also lead to disappointments if you do not get it right. But one thing to say for making your own is that you won’t have wasted as much money if things do not go according to plan. And, of course, will also have avoided the environmental harm that many commercial brands can bring. All but organic and sustainable potting soils will cause some damage to our environment. So you need to ask yourself whether the true cost of these materials is worthwhile. Disposing Of Old Potting Soil One important thing to understand is that the nutrients in potting soil will be depleted over time, and must be replenished. It is also important to understand that diseases can build up if you use the same potting soil without thought year after year. That said, refreshing the potting soil in containers does not necessarily mean that you have to throw the old potting soil away. If the potting soil harboured a plant that succumbed to disease, then you should dispose of it carefully, to make sure that the problem does not spread. Make sure that you do not allow the contaminated material anywhere near your garden growing areas or composting system. However, where no problem has become evident, you can often recycle the potting soil. To do so: Carefully remove all plant matter (including root systems) from the potting soil. Dead plants that have not been infected with pests or disease can be added to your composting system. Remove debris from the medium by hand, or with a garden sieve. Put the potting soil on a tray and heat it in your oven for half an hour – make sure you do not do this at too high a temperature. This should kill off any pathogens or harmful organisms left within it. Allow the soil to cool, and leave it in a sealed container, out of the elements for storage. This process should make most potting soil safe for reuse. But it is important to remember that much of the nutritional content will have been depleted, and microbial life will have to be restored to allow these nutrients to be released and for plants to grow well. To make sure that the potting soil is able to successfully support plant life in future, you will need to supplement and amend it. We need the soil to contain microbes, which will continue to break down organic matter and release nutrients. We need to add more organic matter – e.g. kelp meal, alfalfa meal, to improve the structure and fertility of the mix. And can also add other things, like molasses, for example, to boost microbial life. Replenishing old commercial potting soil is not always easy for beginners. But as long as you understand about adding back organic matter and microbes, you can begin to learn how to build a healthy soil mix. If you have made your own simple potting soil with homemade compost, leaf mold and loamy soil then you will find it somewhat easier to make new mixes, since you can add more of these ingredients from your garden over time, as well as using liquid organic plant feeds to give plants a boost. If you have used an organic potting mix, you can also spread spent potting soil that has not been contaminated with diseases as a mulch along with additional organic matter around mature trees and shrubs in your garden. “As I only use peat-free potting compost that is derived from compost wood chips, I use it to mulch my borders when replenishing or emptying old pots and containers,” shares Horticultural Consultant Colin Skelly. “If I’m emptying a large container I use it to mulch around a tree or a hedge. This means it gets used twice and feeds the soil as well as the plants originally grown in it.” Common Reader Questions What Is The Difference Between Compost And Potting Soil? While the word ‘compost’ is sometimes used to refer to potting soils, they are really somewhat different things. Compost is made up of decomposed or partially decomposed organic material. While potting soil contains a proportion of decomposed materials, but usually has other materials mixed in. Many potting soils, for example, will contain mineral constituents like sand, for example. And may contain perlite, vermiculite, and perhaps additional synthetic or organic fertilizers. A homemade compost will be decomposed materials – usually a mix of carbon-rich brown materials and nitrogen-rich green materials. Its nutrient profile and characteristics can vary quite a lot depending on exactly what went into it and how exactly it was made. A potting mix, unlike a compost, is exclusively used in pots and containers. It is less beneficial when added to garden beds or borders. Compost can be used as an ingredient in filling pots and containers, but should usually only be used in conjunction with other materials. Compost can be an ingredient, for example, in homemade soil-based potting media, or homemade soil-less growing media. Typically, however, it should be mixed with other ingredients in order to create a more stable medium, with good water and aeration properties. For example, many plants can be happy in a general-purpose mix of 1/3 compost, 1/3 leaf mould, and 1/3 loam/loamy topsoil from a garden. You can also mix homemade compost with other ingredients like composted bark, coir etc. to make a soilless mix.3 Can You Mix Compost With Potting Soil? While you can make your own potting soil or potting mix from scratch, you need to be careful about mixing your own homemade compost with a commercial potting soil mix. Remember that commercial potting soil has been specifically formulated to provide for the needs of your plants. And a good example will be well balanced, with good moisture retention/ drainage and aeration. Make any changes to this container growing medium and you may risk disrupting this balance. That said, you can potentially eke out expensive potting soil by adding a small proportion of your own homemade compost to the mix – as long as the compost does not account for more than around a third of the overall volume of the mix. This should help to avoid compaction or drainage issues while providing nutrients that plants need to grow strong. This could be one way to improve cheaper and less ideal potting soils that have been purchased. How Long Does Potting Soil Last In The Bag? Potting soil will last almost indefinitely in an un-breached bag. However, as soon as a bag is opened to the elements, and gets wet, or is in contact with the soil, it will begin to leach nutrients and will become depleted over time. The organic material will continue to break down. The material will usually have depleted to the point where it is no longer ideal for plant growth in a matter of months. How Can You Remove Algae From Potting Soil? Algae on potting soil around seedlings or plants is often a sign that you are overwatering. Algae likes damp and humid to wet conditions. Avoid watering too much and make sure there are no drainage problems. In some cases, it may be better to water from below rather than from above. Make sure there is good airflow around your containers. Algae may also develop more readily where light levels are lower. Make sure your plants are in a bright and sunny area, or consider using LED grow lights if growing indoors early in the year. This problem is more common on peat-based media, since peat is very moisture retentive and provides the ideal conditions for algae to form. If you see this problem a lot, consider switching to peat-free media. This problem is also more likely to occur if you use garden soil rather than a soil-less potting mix. Garden soil can harbour spores (as well as fungi which can cause problems like damping off). Consider sterilizing soil before use, or switching to a soil-less recipe. Make sure containers are cleaned and sterilized before use to reduce the likelihood of this problem occurring. Once you take care of the environmental conditions and make sure these are right, you can often simply scrape the algae off the surface of the soil. In certain cases, it might be a good idea to add an organic mulch or soil cover (like sand, pebbles or grit) in the tops of your containers. With mature plants, you can repot if there is a major problem with competition from algae. But algae is usually only a serious issue when it comes to competition for seedlings and very young plants. Can I Use Garden Soil In My Pots? Yes, in a pinch, you can use a healthy garden soil in pots or containers for mature plants. However, this will not necessarily be the best choice, and won’t provide optimum results. Garden soil is best not used on its own, however, especially for seed starting. It can contain microorganisms that cause plant diseases, and may harbour pests. Another thing to note is that garden soil tends to be heavier and denser than potting soil. It is common, when using garden soil in pots and containers, to encounter issues with drainage and aeration. References 1. Smith, T., & Cox, D. (2015, August). Bagged Potting Mixes and Garden Soils for Home Gardeners. Center for Agriculture, Food, and the Environment. Retrieved March 23, 2023, from https://ag.umass.edu/home-lawn-garden/fact-sheets/bagged-potting-mixes-garden-soils-for-home-gardeners 3. Potting Media and Plant Propagation. (2012, August 28). PennState Extension. Retrieved March 23, 2023, from https://extension.psu.edu/potting-media-and-plant-propagation
Learn more
Why Peat-Based Compost Is Not An Environmentally Friendly Choice (Banned In 2021)
IN THIS GUIDE What Is Peat-Based Compost? Why Has Peat Traditionally Been Used? Costs Using Peat-Based Compost What Plants Is Peat-Based Compost Good For? Why Should Gardeners Use Less Peat-Based Compost? References Peat has traditionally been used by many horticultural experts and home growers to provide optimum conditions for their plants in pots, and to amend the soil in their gardens. However, in recent years, there has been a shift away from peat for environmental reasons. Many compost or potting mix manufacturers have moved away from peat altogether, or reduced the amount of peat included in their recipe. Sustainable, eco-friendly gardeners have tried to move away from these options to ones that are peat-free, and have less impact on the environment. What Is Peat-Based Compost? Peat based compost, as the name suggests, is a potting media or mix which includes a certain proportion of peat in its composition. Why Has Peat Traditionally Been Used? Peat has traditionally been used in growing media and soil amending composts because it is excellent for growing plants. Peat retains plenty of water and provides nutrients, while also providing a good texture that helps in maintaining aeration and avoiding compaction. Trying to recreate the qualities of peat with other materials has, historically, posed something of a challenge. But research and development of new commercial products means that there are now alternatives, which provide the same benefits as peat, without posing the same environmental threat. The horticultural industry in the UK is still heavily dependent on peat as a resource – but things are beginning to change, with the proliferation of higher quality peat-free options. Now, there are many peat-free alternatives that are just as good as peat-based options. In 2021, new legislation has banned the sale of peat to gardeners in the UK by 2024, with plans to help restore the UK’s peatland bogs.1 Costs One benefit of peat-based composts that does remain is that they are usually cheaper than peat-free alternatives. This means that they can be particularly tempting for those gardening on a budget. One thing to remember, however, is that you can also keep down costs by making your own growing media. This can also be achieved by using other materials to fill raised beds (no dig gardening lasagna beds) so only a smaller amount of compost is required to top new growing areas. Using Peat-Based Compost A peat-based compost, depending on its composition, can be used to grow a huge range of different plants. There are peat-based composts that can be used for starting seeds, growing plants in pots, and for spreading around plants to build and improve the soil in your growing areas. As mentioned above, peat is not a sustainable or eco-friendly choice. We’ll explain why in a little more detail below. Organic gardeners should always try to avoid using peat-based compost whenever possible, as Horticulturist Hannah Reid explains:2 “Avoid using peat products – only buy peat-free. Peatlands store huge amounts of carbon and harvesting it for compost is an environmental disaster. “It’s both horrendous for the biodiversity of that specific area and on a global climate scale. “Making your own fertilisers using common plants found in the garden like nettles and comfrey is a great substitute.” “Peat is an almost inert substance and has little if any fertilising benefit,” adds Dan Ori, a Horticultural Consultant. “It is what’s mixed with peat in products like multi-purpose composts that feed plants. The reason it is used in planting mixes (compost) or added to soil is that it has a high water-retentive ability over time. “The quality of peat-free multi-purpose composts has improved dramatically in the last few years, but you do have to adjust to a new watering approach, as peat-free composts will use more water than peat-based without adding additional materials.” Where it is preferable to use peat, and a good peat-free option cannot provide the same results (which is increasingly rare) gardeners should try to choose a lower peat option. Another potential option is to choose a compost that has peat sourced more sustainably – dredged from rivers and by dams where it has been naturally washed by rain, rather than choosing peat that has been dug up from its natural ecosystem. What Plants Is Peat-Based Compost Good For? There is no denying that peat-based compost is great for growing a wide range of plants. There are peat-based media that can be used for growing most plants from seed to maturity. (But also usually peat-free composts that can do just as good a job.) When starting seeds, multi-purpose composts can sometimes be used. But a specialist seed starting mix might yield better results. For ericaceous plants, a specialist acidic mix should be used. Why Should Gardeners Use Less Peat-Based Compost? The main disadvantage of peat-based composts is the harm they do environmentally speaking. Peat comes from lowland peat bogs. When we use it on a large scale in the horticultural industry, we are damaging these precious wetland environments.3 The problem is that although peat is a natural resource – we are using it up far faster than it can be replenished. And we need those peat ecosystems to remain for a number of reasons. Firstly, and importantly, peat bogs are a crucial carbon sink. Peat wetlands are the most important ecosystems for carbon sequestration on our planet.4 When peat is removed and peat ecosystems are degraded or destroyed, these ecosystems can no longer play their role in maintaining the world’s carbon cycle. We need to sequester more carbon, and lock it up in peat bogs and other carbon sinks in order to tackle the massive climate crisis we face.5 Wetlands are also very important in the water cycle. When we destroy peat bogs, we risk disrupting the flows of water through our environment. It is estimated that around 10% of the Earth’s freshwater is contained in peatlands.6 What is more, when peat ecosystems are degraded, water can also pass across a landscape more quickly. When we take peat away or disrupt natural systems, this can cause major flooding issues for communities at lower elevations.7 And it is not just people affected by peat removal. Many species of flora and fauna also rely on precious peat habitats. Wetlands are the most biodiverse of all nature’s ecosystems. When we disrupt and disturb them, we are contributing to habitat loss and biodiversity loss.8 These are just some of the main reasons why we should be leaving peat in the ground, not stealing it to use in our gardens. References 1. Carrington, D. (2021, May 18). Sales of peat compost to gardeners to be banned from 2024. The Guardian. Retrieved March 21, 2023, from https://www.theguardian.com/environment/2021/may/18/sales-of-peat-compost-to-gardeners-to-be-banned-from-2024 2. Peat belongs in bogs, not bags. (n.d.). The Wildlife Trusts. Retrieved March 21, 2023, from https://www.wildlifetrusts.org/ban-sale-peat 3. Peatlands and climate change. (2017, November). IUCN. Retrieved March 21, 2023, from https://www.iucn.org/resources/issues-brief/peatlands-and-climate-change 4. Why is peat so important? | Climate change. (n.d.). National Trust. Retrieved March 21, 2023, from https://www.nationaltrust.org.uk/our-cause/nature-climate/climate-change-sustainability/preserving-our-peatland 5. What is Carbon Sequestration and How Does it Work? (2019, September 20). Clarity and Leadership for Environmental Awareness and Research at UC Davis. Retrieved March 21, 2023, from https://clear.ucdavis.edu/explainers/what-carbon-sequestration 6. Trenbirth, H., & Dutton, A. (2019, July 22). UK natural capital: peatlands. Office for National Statistics. Retrieved March 21, 2023, from https://www.ons.gov.uk/economy/environmentalaccounts/bulletins/uknaturalcapitalforpeatlands/naturalcapitalaccounts 7. Shuttleworth, E. (2019, July 1). Peat restoration and natural flood management. IUCN Peatland Programme. Retrieved March 21, 2023, from https://www.iucn-uk-peatlandprogramme.org/news/peat-restoration-and-natural-flood-management 8. High Biodiversity. (n.d.). The Wetlands Initiative. Retrieved March 21, 2023, from https://www.wetlands-initiative.org/high-biodiversity
Learn more
Peat-Free Compost: You've Probably Heard Of It, But What Does It Really Mean?
IN THIS GUIDE What Is Peat-Free Compost? Sourcing Peat-Free Compost What Is It Made Of? What Are Its Benefits? What Do You Use Peat Free Compost For? How To Make Peat-Free Compost References Peat is a natural accumulation of partially decayed vegetation or organic matter. It is found in areas of peatland, bogs, moors and mires. What Is Peat-Free Compost? Peat free compost, as the name suggests, is any compost that does not contain peat. Peat has traditionally been used for creating potting composts because it has a range of benefits for growing plants. However, those who are environmentally conscious have recognised that digging up precious peat ecosystems to grow our plants is not a sustainable or eco-friendly choice.1 “There are many vital reasons for peat to be left in the ground,” shares Garden Writer Nic Wilson. “Healthy peat bogs support unique ecosystems, which include rare plants like the great sundew, and provide breeding sites for birds such as golden plover. “A peat bog also stores vast amounts of CO2, but stored carbon is released back into the atmosphere when peat is extracted, contributing to climate breakdown.” Consumers and compost manufacturers, therefore, are increasingly turning to alternative options – these peat-free composts were historically considered to be inferior to peat-based products for potting mixes. But research and development have now generated a range of products that can be as good as, or even superior to peat-based options. “We’ve been peat-free for 18 months across our whole nursery,” shares Rosy Hardy, the Owner of Hardy’s Cottage Garden Plants. “We were struggling to grow completely peat-free in our propagating area and we are still testing some substitutes, but we are not going back! “It’s good to be peat-free to help the planet, but it is hard as a commercial grower.” Sourcing Peat-Free Compost Gardeners can either make their own peat-free composts and potting mixes (see below) or purchase a product that states that it is peat-free on the label. Either way, watering and feeding requirements will usually be somewhat different for peat-free growing media than for peat-based options. One important thing to note about peat-free composts is that they can vary significantly in their ingredients and efficacy. Some are much better than others. Typically, price is indicative of how good a peat-free compost will be. The results of using a cheaper peat-free compost option will usually be more variable, and if you pay a little more, you will tend to see better results. Do not be tricked by terms on a label such as ‘organic’ or ‘eco friendly’ – such wording does not always guarantee that a compost or potting mix is peat-free. What Is It Made Of? Peat free composts and potting mixes can be made using a range of different ingredients, to a range of different recipes. Most peat-free options contain one or more of the following: Woody materials (bark, woodfibre, sawdust, etc..) Coconut husk (coir) Municipal green waste (usually no more than 30% of the finished product). Bracken Straw waste Waste sheep’s wool. A homemade growing medium usually comprises: Homemade compost (made with brown carbon-rich and green nitrogen-rich materials). Leaf mold Loam or sand (inorganic soil elements) What Are Its Benefits? A peat-free growing medium is far better for our planet. Using peat simply isn’t an option for anyone who wants to garden in a sustainable and eco-friendly way. Peat comes primarily from lowland raised bogs, which is an increasingly rare habitat type in the UK and across Europe.2 Peat bogs are important wetlands, which play a vital role in the water cycle, flood mitigation, and in drinking water provision and filtration.3 In the UK, more than 28 million people use drinking water from water sources that rely on peatlands.4 And globally, peatlands provide nearly 4% of all potable water stored in reservoirs.5 The distinctive environmental conditions of peat wetlands mean that they provide a crucial habitat for a wide range of flora and fauna. Preserving wetlands is crucial for preserving biodiversity and halting biodiversity losses. Wetlands are the most biologically diverse of all ecosystems, and it is vital that we protect these precious ecosystems. What is more, protecting peatlands is also crucial for carbon sequestration. Peatland ecosystems store more CO2 than all other vegetation types, including the world’s forests.6 Peat covers just 3% of the world’s land area but stores one-third of the Earth’s soil carbon.7 When we dig up peat for use in horticulture, we are hastening the destruction of these precious ecosystems and contributing to the climate crisis. The problem is that while peat is naturally replenished, it only grows very slowly (around 1mm per year). We are using it up far faster than it can naturally be replaced. Peat free growing media can be a far more sustainable and eco-friendly choice. Though it is important to look into exactly what goes into a peat-free compost, and where it comes from. When choosing peat free compost, we need to look at issues such as water retention, water distribution and nutrient provision. We need to balance our own needs and the needs of our plants with the needs of the planet and humanity as a whole to make the right compost choices for our gardens. What Do You Use Peat Free Compost For? Peat free composts vary considerably. Some are considered to be all-purpose composts, which can be used for a wide range of different plants through all stages of their growth. Some are specifically suited to seed starting, or for growing in containers. Others are specifically suited to ericaceous (acid-loving) plants. Make sure you pay attention to what exactly is in a peat-free compost, and read about the plants to which it is suited. Wood-based mixes tend to be suitable for most plants, as they have excellent drainage properties and low pH. Coir retains water well, and maintains good aeration, but does not hold nutrients well. Green waste, where this is used, has high levels of nutrients. But has high pH and may not always be the best option for seed starting and potting mixes. Bracken is high in potash Sheep’s wool provides slow-release nitrogen and is good for water retention. Make sure that you choose (or create) a potting mix suited to the plants you wish to grow. How To Make Peat-Free Compost It is perfectly possible to make your own peat-free compost/potting mix. There are a number of different recipes to consider, which combine compost made at home with organic matter with leaf mould, and soil ingredients like loam/sand. If you do decide to make your own then of course the results can be variable. One issue is that if you use a soil component, weeds and fungal pathogens can creep in. “Although the risk of weeds and pathogens tips the balance away from using home-made compost mixes”, says Horticulturist Colin Skelly, “the RHS recommends it as the best, lowest carbon option for potting on plants – although getting the technique right might take a bit of trial and error.” Personally, I have had few issues with using a mix of 1/3 compost (including well-rotted chicken manure and bedding as well as kitchen scraps, and shredded woody material from the garden), 1/3 leaf mould and 1/3 loamy soil to start my seeds. If you have issues with damping off when sowing seeds into this mix, you can sterilize the loam/soil using your oven. PH, moisture retention and available nutrients will be variable. But good composting practices can help you to establish a successful system and make a potting mix that works for a wide range of edible produce and other plants. “People have to remember that peat-free compost holds water more than they realise,” adds Rosy. “It dries out on the top, but can still be damp underneath, so it’s important to do the finger test and check that the soil is actually dry before watering.” You can also choose a soil-less recipe, and use woody materials or coir to create the right mix. Though coir is a waste product, however, it is worth noting that it may not be the most eco-friendly choice either, since it has to travel a long way to reach us. References 1. For Peat’s Sake. (2022, November 16). Garden Organic. Retrieved March 21, 2023, from https://www.gardenorganic.org.uk/get-involved/campaigns/for-peats-sake 2. Raised bog. (n.d.). The Wildlife Trusts. Retrieved March 21, 2023, from https://www.wildlifetrusts.org/habitats/wetlands/raised-bog 3. Anderson, R. (2022, February 9). Peatland ecosystem services. Forest Research. Retrieved March 21, 2023, from https://www.forestresearch.gov.uk/research/peatland-ecosystem-services/ 4. Harrison, A. (2018, May 15). Peatland contributions to UK water security. University of Leeds. Retrieved March 21, 2023, from https://www.leeds.ac.uk/news/article/4232/peatland_contributions_to_uk_water_security 5. Xu, J., Morris, P., Liu, J., & Holden, J. (2018). Hotspots of peatland-derived potable water use identified by global analysis. University of Leeds. Retrieved March 21, 2023, from https://eprints.whiterose.ac.uk/129766/6/Hotspots%20of%20peatland-derived%20potable%20water%20AAM.pdf 6. Peatlands and climate change. (n.d.). IUCN. Retrieved March 21, 2023, from https://www.iucn.org/resources/issues-brief/peatlands-and-climate-change 7. Huang, Y., & Wang, Y. (2021, June 22). Peatlands worldwide are drying out, threatening to release 860 million tonnes of carbon dioxide every year. World Economic Forum. Retrieved March 21, 2023, from https://www.weforum.org/agenda/2021/06/peatlands-worldwide-emissions-carbon-environment-climate-change/
Learn more
