Growing
Lime Can Be Used To Reduce Soil Acidity, But How And When Should It Be Used?
IN THIS GUIDE What Is Garden Lime? Why Is It Used? Should You Use Lime To Amend Acidic Soil? Do You Need To Use Lime In Your Garden? Alternatives To Garden Lime Determining Quantities For Liming Applying Materials To Reduce Soil Acidity References Lime is commonly used to reduce soil acidity, but how and when should it be used? Conventional horticultural practice involves using lime to raise the pH of acidic soil. However, sustainable gardeners are increasingly aware of the environmental costs of the extractive industry and since lime comes from limestone quarries, which can cause significant environmental harm, some gardeners are now seeking more sustainable, renewable alternatives.1 Sustainability practices in the extraction of garden lime certainly vary widely from site to site, but while practices have often improved, these are still part of an extractive rather than regenerative mindset. Garden lime is a natural material which is suitable for organic production, but just because it is a natural substance, that does not mean that it is necessarily the most eco-friendly option, so this is certainly something to consider before you choose to use lime in your garden. What Is Garden Lime? Garden lime is a calcium carbonate-rich material made by grinding limestone. There is also a variant called magnesian limestone, also known as ‘Dolomite lime’ which is rich in magnesium carbonate as well as calcium carbonate and is used in lime soils which also lack magnesium.2 Some gardeners may also use hydrated lime (calcium hydroxide) which is commonly used in construction.3 This has a higher neutralising value and so less of this can be used to have the same affect on the soil. Why Is It Used? Lime is used to reduce the acidity of garden soil by increasing the pH level. Garden soil is either acidic, neutral or alkaline. Soil that is very acidic can cause issues as it can be more difficult for plants to derive the nutrients they need from strongly acidic soil, and there can also be a toxic build-up of aluminium and other substances in extremely acidic situations.4 Raising soil pH can also help to avoid certain plant diseases, such as clubroot of brassica crops.5 Should You Use Lime To Amend Acidic Soil? Reducing acidity can be required in situations where the soil is particularly acidic to avoid nutrient deficiencies and other issues with plants. However, sometimes gardeners may simply make the choice to reduce a somewhat acidic soil in order to grow plants which like more neutral or alkaline conditions. In my opinion, it is usually best, in all but the most extreme of conditions, to work with and plant for the soil that you have in an organic garden. There are plenty of plants which will thrive in moderately acidic soil. Ericaceous plants love acidic conditions, and a number of further plants can tolerate them as long as they are not too extreme. Broad and larger scale liming in gardens is not often required. If lime is used, it is simply used in a particular growing area to improve conditions for certain crops, while the majority of the garden is given over to plants which thrive in the natural conditions. Do You Need To Use Lime In Your Garden? The first and most important step in deciding whether to use lime is to determine the pH of the soil in your garden. For this, you will need a pH testing kit, which is readily available online and not very expensive. It is always a good idea to check pH before planting new trees or shrubs, or establishing a new kitchen garden. It is important to note that the degree of acidity is important when deciding whether to lime to reduce acidity. A very slightly acidic soil, with a pH of 6.5, is actually considered to be the best possible pH level for the growth of the vast majority of garden plants.6 With a pH of 6, some liming may be beneficial, but it is only when the pH falls below 5.5 that more severe issues can crop up, and reducing pH is more likely to be required. Once you know your pH, and have decided whether you need to reduce acidity, you should think about which material you wish to use. While garden lime, Dolomite lime or hydrated lime, are the most common options, sustainable gardeners may be interested in other, more eco-friendly options. Alternatives To Garden Lime If you need to reduce acidity in garden soil, one other option is calcified seaweed. Calcified seaweed is produced from naturally occurring calcified and coral-like algae which are naturally occurring.7 However, even more than limestone quarries, there are serious sustainability concerns over the process of obtaining this product, which damages marine environments.8 Another very interesting alternative is ground eggshells, which studies have suggested could be just as effective as lime when applied as a ground powder in an agricultural setting. On a small scale, certainly, in gardens, using powdered crushed eggshells to reduce soil acidity could certainly be an interesting and more eco-friendly alternative. “Although I would love to use eggshells instead of quarried lime, the scale and grinding process deployed in agricultural trails cannot currently be practically replicated in the domestic garden,” shares Master Hortocilturist Dan Ori. Determining Quantities For Liming Of course, lime, while not ideal from a sustainability standpoint, is readily available, and it will be far easier to determine exactly how much of it will be required in order to reduce the soil pH to the optimal level of 6.5. So, if you have more extremely acidic soil, and do not want to experiment with finely ground eggshells, then it is likely that you will still want to use it. The quantities that you will need to apply over a given area will vary depending on: The type of liming material you choose The type of soil in your garden (soils with high clay content will be more resistant to pH change and so more liming material will be required) The soil pH (and how much of a reduction in acidity is required) To raise the pH of clay soil, typically you will require around 1kg per square metre (m2) of garden lime to raise the pH from 5.5 to 6.5. This falls to around 0.8kg / m2 in loam soil and to around 0.7 kg / m2 in sandy soil. Obviously, more will be required if you need to raise it from a lower pH, and less if the current pH is higher. The quantities required will be different if you use Dolomite lime or hydrated lime. Applying Materials To Reduce Soil Acidity Liming must be carried out several months before planting in order for the necessary change in soil pH to occur. It is usually carried out for vegetable plots in autumn so that the soil pH should have altered by the time that beds are planted up in spring. Typically, it is said to be best to dig half of the lime into the soil and sprinkle the rest on the surface. However, in a no-dig garden, soil is not dug and is left as undisturbed as possible, so sprinkling the lime on the surface or incorporating it in the lower layers of a new lasagna garden may be best. If in doubt about what is required for your garden, it is not a good idea to try to change soil pH drastically without further investigation, since getting it wrong can do more harm than good. References 1. Quarrying and the environment. (n.d.). British Geological Survey. Retrieved March 20, 2023, from https://www2.bgs.ac.uk/mendips/aggregates/environment/intro.html 2. Young, B. (n.d.). Magnesian Limestone, South Shields. The Geological Society of London. Retrieved March 20, 2023, from https://www.geolsoc.org.uk/GeositesMagnesianLimestone 3. Lime and liming. (n.d.). Royal Horticultural Society. Retrieved March 20, 2023, from https://www.rhs.org.uk/soil-composts-mulches/lime-liming 4. Soil acidity. (2020, December 29). Agriculture Victoria. Retrieved March 20, 2023, from https://agriculture.vic.gov.au/farm-management/soil/soil-acidity 5. Club root. (n.d.). Royal Horticultural Society. Retrieved March 20, 2023, from https://www.rhs.org.uk/disease/club-root 6. Best pH levels and how it effects plant growth. (n.d.). Canna UK. Retrieved March 20, 2023, from https://www.canna-uk.com/ph_acidity 7. Seaweed products. (n.d.). Royal Horticultural Society. Retrieved March 20, 2023, from https://www.rhs.org.uk/soil-composts-mulches/seaweed-products 8. Campbell, I., Macleod, A., Sahlmann, C., Neves, L., Funderud, J., Øverland, M., Hughes, A., & Stanley, M. (2019, March 22). The Environmental Risks Associated With the Development of Seaweed Farming in Europe – Prioritizing Key Knowledge Gaps. Frontier. Retrieved March 20, 2023, from https://www.frontiersin.org/articles/10.3389/fmars.2019.00107/full
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Here's How To Grow Amazing Agave As Houseplants (Or Even Outdoors For Xeriscaping)
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Why Grow Agave? Common Varieties Where To Grow Agave Planting Agave Care References Agave succulents can be interesting houseplants and, though they are frost-tender, can be used in summer bedding schemes or in large containers outdoors over the summer months. If you are looking for a statement plant for a conservatory or other bright indoor locations, for a greenhouse, or for a summer bedding scheme or container garden, then Agave could be a good plant to consider. These interesting succulents make a dramatic show with their large rosettes of fleshy leaves. They may be used outdoors for xeriscaping (dry-climate planting) in more arid parts in the south of the UK. However, they are more commonly grown as houseplants, or as container plants which are placed outside only during the summer months. Overview Botanical Name Agave Common Name(s) Century Plant Plant Type Succulent / Perennial Native Area North & South America Hardiness Rating H2 Foliage Evergreen Flowers Yellow and green When To Plant Spring and Summer Agave is a genus of monocot plants mostly native to arid and hot regions of North and South America.1 Along with the related yucca plant, Agaves are popular ornamental plants outdoors in hot, dry climates and are popular houseplants or summer outdoor plants in temperate zones. Agaves grow very slowly and are often also referred to by the name ‘century plants’. Agaves are succulents, storing water in their large, fleshy leaves, which typically form in large rosettes of sharp-edged, rigid foliage. Funnel-shaped flowers can form in racemes or panicles which often grow much taller than the rosettes of succulent leaves. “These types of plants, where seed is set once followed by death, are known as monocarpic,” says Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly. “For large Agave, such as A. americana, a mature plant can produce a flower stem up to 8m in length – a spectacular way to end its life cycle. “The yellow-green flowers are hugely attractive to pollinators (you’ll be able to hear them but not see them unless you have a long ladder). “But be warned – from bitter experience – the remains of large Agaves are not easy to remove!” Most often, Agaves have leaves which are a greyish-green, sometimes with creamy white or yellow margins. Why Grow Agave? While Agave is typically just grown for its interesting architectural form in the UK, in its native ranges this is a plant with many uses. Commercially, Agaves have long been grown for their fibres (sisal) and are used to make alcoholic drinks, such as tequila.2 Agave americana also has edible uses, as the heart of the plant is very rich in saccharine and can be eaten when baked.3 However, since harvesting the heart of the plant will kill it, this is not something that home growers will usually want to consider. Experimental gardeners may though be interested in tapping the plant for sap, which is used as a syrup or fermented to make alcoholic drinks.4 One thing to note if you plan on growing Agave is that the very sharp leaves can easily cut the unwary, and they should be carefully sited. Common Varieties Typical varieties of Agave grown in the UK include: A. americana A. americana ‘Mediopicta’ A. americana ‘Mediopicta Alba’ A. americana ‘Variegata’ A. attenuata A. filifera A. macroacantha A. montana A. obscura A. ovatifolia A. parrasana A. parryi A. parviflora A. potatorum A. salmiana var. ferox A. stricta A. titanota A. utahensis A. univittata A. victoriae-reginae These varieties have different forms and appearances, but all like broadly similar conditions to each other, and to other similar succulents that you might grow in your home or garden. Where To Grow Agave Agave plants all require warm to hot, sunny conditions and very free-draining soil. When grown in the ground over the summer months good drainage will be paramount, and the soil surrounding the plants should not be overly fertile, and should never be permanently moist. An acidic or neutral soil or growing medium is best. A. americana and A. parryi are the only two of these which can be hardy in extremely warm and sheltered gardens or in southern parts of the UK, however, these are still usually only H2 hardy and will not survive a freeze. In a few very limited situations it may be possible to grow these outdoors (perhaps with some winter protection) throughout the whole of the year. Winter wet is usually more of an issue than temperatures in such a situation. Planting on a mound or bank can help prevent water-logging which can cause plants to rot in winter. Most Agaves grown in beds and borders, however, should be lifted and moved into a bright and frost-free undercover location or indoors over the winter months. Container plants placed outdoors should also be brought undercover or indoors well before the first frosts. When growing Agave in a pot, as most people in the UK will do, using a cactus compost or other very free draining potting mix is important. A typical good-quality potting mix with plenty of grit added for drainage can also work well. Make sure that you choose a suitable container, which will not retain too much moisture and will allow water to drain very freely through the holes at the base. The containers can often be placed outdoors in summer, but can also be grown indoors as houseplants throughout the year. Growing under glass is usually best for most Agave in the UK, but remember that Agave succulents should be placed in as light and bright a position as possible, as they enjoy having plenty of light (as much light as possible!) throughout the year. Planting Agave plants can be purchased and planted in containers indoors at any time of the year, or outdoors in your garden from late spring/early summer as soon as the weather has reliably warmed and all risk of frost has long passed. Make sure that water cannot sit around the base of the plants, as it will cause rotting, and that any water can always drain away freely. Planting Agave succulents at an angle can help make sure that water can drain away freely. This is most important when Agave is grown outdoors where there is natural rainfall, as you will not always have control over watering. It can also be a good idea to place rocks or gravel around the base of the plants after planting, as this will further aid in combatting any drainage issues. Companion Planting In a warm, sunny and sheltered garden, which can be kept suitably dry and free-draining in winter, Agave can be grown alongside a number of other hardy succulents. For example, in a dry garden scheme, you might grow Agaves with other large arid climate plants such as Dasylirion, Nolina and Yucca. Agave in a container can be a great addition to a succulent collection which contains a wide variety of other succulents, bromeliads and cacti which are commonly grown as houseplants in the UK. Agave Care Agaves can be very low-maintenance plants where they are grown in suitable conditions. However, special care will be required when it comes to the avoidance of over-watering, as this plant, like many other succulents, will not tolerate damp or waterlogged conditions for any length of time. Watering Agave should be watered moderately over the summer months, but in the winter watering should be very sparing indeed. The plants will prefer to be kept almost entirely dry during the coldest months when they are not in active growth. Feeding Agaves in containers should be fed with a balanced, organic liquid plant feed every 2-3 weeks when they are in growth. Pests & Problems These succulents are usually trouble-free, though they can be attacked by pests such as scale insects, which excrete honeydew. This sticky substance can foster the growth of sooty moulds. Potting On Agave should be potted when the plants become pot-bound into a larger container. Make sure to take care whenever you are handling these sharp plants. Propagation Agaves will often produce offsets, which can be potted up at any time when they arise, usually in spring or autumn. If you place your Agave in a suitable location, and crucially, take care of watering and drainage, you should find them relatively easy and straightforward plants to grow. References 1. Schoellhorn, R., & Richardson, A. (n.d.). Warm Climate Production Guidelines For Agave. University of Florida. Retrieved March 9, 2023, from https://hort.ifas.ufl.edu/floriculture/pdfs/crop_production/Agave_ENHFL04-007.pdf 2. MasterClass. (2021, March 4). How Is Tequila Made? The 6 Steps of Making Tequila. Retrieved March 9, 2023, from https://www.masterclass.com/articles/how-is-tequila-made 3. Agave americana. (n.d.). Plants for a Future. Retrieved March 9, 2023, from https://pfaf.org/user/Plant.aspx?LatinName=Agave+americana 4. Panchal, B. (2023, March 9). Why Agave Syrup is A Great Vegan Substitute For Honey. Holland & Barrett. Retrieved March 9, 2023, from https://www.hollandandbarrett.com/the-health-hub/food-drink/food/honey/agave-syrup-vegan-substitute-for-honey/
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How To Grow A Birch Tree - 'A Good Choice For Even The Smallest Of Gardens'
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Why Grow A Birch Tree? Birch Varieties Where To Grow Planting Birches Birch Tree Care References Birch trees are beautiful native trees which can find a place in many UK gardens. They have simple leaves, often borne in pairs on two-leaved lateral branchlets. “Birch can get quite tall, but it isn’t a dense tree, so it won’t feel too big and its roots won’t spread too much, making it a good choice for even the smallest of gardens,” shares Ben Raskin, an award-winning Horticulturist. Overview Botanical Name Betula Common Name(s) Birch Plant Type Tree Native Area United Kingdom Hardiness Rating H7 Foliage Deciduous Flowers Catkins When To Plant Autumn and Winter When To Prune Late Summer Birches are deciduous hardwood trees in the Betula genus. The Betula genus is in the Betulaceae family, which also includes hazels, hornbeams and alders.1 There are between 30 and 60 known taxa within this genus. Unlike with alders, the catkins borne on the trees in spring are not woody and break apart at maturity to release their seeds.2 There are two main species of birch native to the British Isles, which we will look at in more depth below. There are also a number of non-native species which are often grown as garden trees here in the UK. Why Grow A Birch Tree? Birch trees are wonderfully ornamental trees to consider growing in your garden. They are attractive all year round, with interest from the bark and form, catkins in spring, and often good autumnal foliage colouration too. Beyond aesthetic concerns, however, birches can be good choices for a wildlife-friendly, eco-friendly garden. These are relatively short-lived pioneer species, which often colonise new areas, creating ecosystems where a range of other plant and animal life can thrive.3 In the wild, birch woods have an open canopy, allowing bluebells, grasses, mosses, violets, wood anemones, wood sorrel, and other woodland species to grow.4 This light-open canopy can also be useful in a garden, allowing for layered planting below the trees, or for the creation of a more naturalistic woodland scheme. Root action of birches can aid in improving the soil and benefiting other plants growing nearby. The leaves make good compost and enrich humus on the soil surface when left to decompose. Native birches provide food and habitat for over 300 different insect species, and the aphids and other insects that are attracted to these trees bring, in turn, a range of other species, like ladybirds, which prey on them to your garden.5 The leaves of birch trees are also food for the caterpillars of many moth species. Birch trees are also great for birds. Woodpeckers and other hole-nesting birds may often make their nests in the trunks of birch trees, and the seeds attract and are eaten by species including greenfinches, siskins and redpolls. Another thing to note is that birch trees can provide a range of useful yields. Pruned materials of this hardwood have a range of interesting uses in crafts and the trees can potentially be coppiced for a range of uses too. Birch trees are sometimes tapped to collect their sap which makes a refreshing drink, which can also be boiled down to concentrate it into syrup. Young birch leaves can also be eaten, raw or cooked.6 Birch Varieties The best birch trees to consider for UK gardens are native birches, which bring benefits for a range of wildlife and provide habitat for a range of native species.7 The two common native species in the British Isles are the silver birch and the downy birch: Silver Birch – Betula pendula The Silver Birch is an extremely popular garden tree. It can grow up to around 30m in height and 4-8m wide, and is prized for its attractive and light canopied form, and beautiful papery white bark which sheds in layers and develops interesting patinas as the trees mature. Attractive yellowish catkins appear on the trees during the spring and, like other birches, foliage can colour well in the autumn months. “I wouldn’t be without silver birch in my garden,” shares Nic Wilson, a Garden Writer. “Ours attracts so many birds to the garden and over 300 insect species have been recorded living or feeding on birch. Like many trees, it’s an ecosystem all of its own.” Downy Birch – Betula pubescens The downy birch is a broadleaf species which grows further north than any other. Also known as the European White Birch, White Birch, or Hairy Birch, mature trees of this species can also grow up to 30m tall and 4-8m wide. They have somewhat brownish leaves, without the Silver Birch’s paperiness, and with more obvious horizontal grooves, and form a light canopy with elegant and drooping branches. The name comes from the downy texture of the leaf stalks, which is not found on silver birches. Like the above, the downy birch bears yellow-brown catkins in spring and can have good autumn colour. Non-Native Birches However, while planting native trees is often the best option for eco-friendly gardens, there are also a range of other birches which can be excellent choices for ornamental appeal. “Since the UK experienced glaciation relatively recently, its flora is relatively sparse compared to areas of the world that did not,” shares Colin Skelly, a Master Horticulturist. “Utilising near-native (European or North American) or exotic (southern hemisphere) plants extends to the range of plants available to gardeners and is still often a resource for wildlife.” Some non-native birches often chosen for UK gardens due to their ornamental appeal include: Paper Birch (B. papyrifera) Himalayan Birch (B. utilis) Gold Birch (B. ermanii) Gold Bark Birch (B. medwediemii) “I absolutely love growing Betula utilis,” shares Garden Designer Jacquie Felix-Mitchell. “This Birch is such a beauty, with a fabulous sense of the ethereal in the winter garden.” There are examples of all the above which can make great choices, even in smaller gardens. Where To Grow Silver birches and white birches both look particularly pleasing when planted in small groups or when cultivated/coppiced as multi-stemmed examples. Native birch trees prefer a well-drained and fertile loam in a sunny position. They will not grow well in the shade, but can tolerate almost all soil conditions, including poor soils, sandy soils, and heavy clays. The native birches usually prefer acidic or neutral soil but can also often grow well in alkaline conditions. Birches are also fully hardy (H7) and can cope with a fairly high degree of wind exposure. Native birches can be placed on a lawn as specimen trees, form the canopy in a woodland area or forest garden, or even be placed towards the back of garden borders, surrounded by shrubs and herbaceous planting. Planting Birches Birch trees can be purchased as saplings or more mature specimens. These can be purchased as bare root plants over the dormant period (generally the more affordable option) or as pot-grown specimens throughout the rest of the year. Planting can be done at any time, but it is best to avoid the warmest summer months when transplantation may be trickier and the plants may put be under more stress due to the temperatures and dry conditions. Dig generous planting holes large enough to accommodate the root systems of the new trees, adding a layer of compost or other organic matter to the planting hole before you plant your tree. Place the rootball in your planting hole, making sure that the tree is planted to the same depth. Fill back the soil around the tree and water it in well; add a generous mulch of organic matter around the tree. Birch Tree Care Watering Water your birch trees well until they become established, after which time, when they are well-rooted, natural rainfall should be sufficient. Feeding Additional feeding is not required, but it is a good idea to replenish the organic mulch around the base of your birch trees each spring. Pruning Birch trees should absolutely only be pruned when fully dormant between early autumn and the middle of winter. Pruning at any other time will make the trees bleed sap heavily, even in late winter when the sap of other trees may not have yet risen. Established trees do not need regular pruning, and hard pruning is not recommended. However, removing damaged wood, or crossing branches can be beneficial (and these may be useful for a range of projects too). If you wish to make a multi-stemmed birch, choose a young plant no more than around a metre tall and cut it horizontally close to ground level (at around 10cm) or to around 30-60cm or so above the ground. This cut should stimulate dormant buds which will grow up strongly the following year. After a couple of years, you may wish also to restrict the number of main stems by choosing a few well-spaced ones to keep, cutting out the rest down to the base. Bark Care Many birches are chosen for their attractive peeling bark, but if some loose bark is getting a little tatty, you may remove some of it. Just make sure that you do not remove too much, or go too far, as this may damage the living tissues of the tree just below the surface. If you wish to show off pale-coloured bark to best effect, you can clean off some green algae from the main trunk with a soft, wet cloth. This won’t harm the tree and the algae will quickly return. However, make sure that you don’t disturb the lichens and mosses which may grow from outlying branches, as these are a crucial part of your garden’s ecosystem. Birch trees make wonderful additions to a healthy, productive and beautiful garden, so you should definitely consider growing at least one where you live. References 1. Betulaceae (birch family). (n.d.). Native Plant Trust. Retrieved March 9, 2023, from https://gobotany.nativeplanttrust.org/family/betulaceae/ 2. How to identify the Silver birch tree (Betula pendula) in a few easy steps. (n.d.). The Conservation Volunteers. Retrieved March 9, 2023, from https://treegrowing.tcv.org.uk/identify/silver-birch 3. Birch. (n.d.). Future Trees Trust. Retrieved March 9, 2023, from https://www.futuretrees.org/birch/ 4. Trust, W. (n.d.-c). Silver Birch (Betula pendula). Woodland Trust. Retrieved March 9, 2023, from https://www.woodlandtrust.org.uk/trees-woods-and-wildlife/british-trees/a-z-of-british-trees/silver-birch/ 5. Birch. (n.d.-b). Guide to Insect Pests of Woody Plants. Retrieved March 9, 2023, from https://www.uky.edu/Ag/Entomology/treepestguide/birch.html 6. H. (2020b, April 9). Birch, Extremely Versatile with a Tasty Wintergreen Flavoring. Eat the Planet. https://eattheplanet.org/birch-extremely-versatile-with-a-tasty-wintergreen-flavoring/ 7. UK Native Trees. (n.d.). Woodland Trust. Retrieved April 25, 2023, from https://www.woodlandtrust.org.uk/trees-woods-and-wildlife/british-trees/native-trees/
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Don't Worry About Watering - 17 Drought-Tolerant Plants That Are Natural Survivors
IN THIS GUIDE 1) Artemisia 2) Bearded Iris 3) Black-Eyed Susan 4) Clematis viticella 5) Diascia 6) Echeveria 7) Geum 8) Hardy Geranium 9) Judas Tree 10) Lavender 11) Mexican Feather Grass 12) Pittosporum 13) Russian Sage 14) Sea Holly 15) Sedum 16) Sempervivum 17) Star Jasmine References Water is known as the staff of life, but some plants lean on it less heavily than others. Although precipitation isn’t something that British gardens have traditionally lacked, hosepipe bans during the height of summer are not uncommon.1 What’s more, the onset of climate change could mean that prolonged periods of warm, dry weather become more commonplace in the coming months and years.2 For that reason, it might make sense to select drought-resistant plants to populate your sunny borders and outdoor displays. Not only will they be able to hold up during extended hot spells, but they also mean that you can head off on holiday for weeks at a time without worrying that your garden will wilt in your absence. Of course, they also offer the additional advantage of simply being lower maintenance. For those green-fingered enthusiasts who find the task of individually watering all of their specimens a little on the back-breaking side, or for those who prefer a less hands-on approach, drought-resistant plants can be a godsend. “There is an important difference between drought-resistant and drought-tolerance,” shares Horticultural Consultant Colin Skelly. “The plants in this list are adapted to cope well with periods of hot, dry weather. However, periods of weeks of dry conditions and high temperatures will negatively impact on their health. “In those conditions, irrigation in the early morning or evening will benefit the plants, thoroughly wetting the soil at the base of the plant.” Fortunately, there are a variety of cultivars which naturally thrive in drier conditions, making them an ideal option for any of the above scenarios. Here’s our pick of some of the best of the bunch to inspire your display and keep things colourful, even when the mercury rises and the rain clouds disperse: 1) Artemisia COMMON NAME (S): Mugwort HARDINESS RATING: H6 PLANT TYPE: Herbaceous perennial FOLIAGE TYPE: Deciduous FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer SUNLIGHT: Full Sun / Partial Shade SOIL PREFERENCE: Loam, Chalk, Sand; Any pH SIZE: 1.5-2.5m in height, 0.5-1m spread Not only is artemisia pleasing on the eye and palatable on the nostrils, but it’s also incredibly easy to cultivate, too. The delicate silver foliage provides the perfect foil to almost any other plant in its vicinity and is definitely the star of the show. In fact, some gardeners prefer to prune the unspectacular yellow blossoms which appear in late summer altogether, in favour of foregrounding the feathery loveliness of the plant’s leaves. 2) Bearded Iris BOTANICAL NAME: Iris germanica COMMON NAME (S): Bearded Iris HARDINESS RATING: H6 PLANT TYPE: Perennial FOLIAGE TYPE: Evergreen FLOWERING SEASON(S): Spring SUNLIGHT: Full Sun / Partial Shade SOIL PREFERENCE: Chalk, loam, sand; alkaline / neutral pH SIZE: 0.5-1m in height, 0.1-0.5m spread Bearded irises are excellent at withstanding long periods without water, and they’re also incredibly resilient against pests and diseases. To ensure they flourish to their full potential, simply point the rhizome in a southerly direction to prevent its foliage from shading the rest of the plant.3 Doing so will reward you with beautiful displays of distinctive drooping petals which give the plant its name. There are a wide variety of cultivars and colours available that would be wonderous in any UK garden. 3) Black-Eyed Susan BOTANICAL NAME: Rudbeckia fulgida COMMON NAME (S): Black-eyed Susan HARDINESS RATING: H6 PLANT TYPE: Perennial FOLIAGE TYPE: Deciduous FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer / Autumn SUNLIGHT: Full Sun / Partial Shade SOIL PREFERENCE: Clay, loam, sand; any pH SIZE: 0.5-1m in height, 0.1-0.5m spread Named for the dark stamen at the centre of its yellow blooms, Black-Eyed Susan is one of the easiest perennials to grow. It will require thorough watering at the time of planting, but once established, it won’t need hardly any irrigation at all. Capable of growing almost half a metre in height, black-eyed Susans are perfect for adding architectural intrigue and summer colour to the middle section of a flowering border. 4) Clematis viticella BOTANICAL NAME: Clematis viticella COMMON NAME (S): Purple clematis HARDINESS RATING: H6 PLANT TYPE: Climber FOLIAGE TYPE: Deciduous FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer / Autumn SUNLIGHT: Full Sun / Partial Shade SOIL PREFERENCE: Any soil type; alkaline / neutral pH SIZE: 2.5-4m in height, 1-1.5m spread Although some species of clematis are more drought-tolerant than others, the Viticella group of climbers are some of the best-performing options in this respect. They’re vigorous and versatile growers that can reach up to five metres in height and can be trained along trellises, fences or any other structural support you have in mind. Both flowers and foliage are smaller and daintier than some of their brethren, but they produce profuse amounts of blossoms over an extended period from midsummer to autumn, making them a great choice for prolonged colour. 5) Diascia BOTANICAL NAME: Diascia COMMON NAME (S): Twinspur HARDINESS RATING: H3 PLANT TYPE: Annual / Perennial FOLIAGE TYPE: Semi-Evergreen FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer / Autumn SUNLIGHT: Full Sun / Partial Shade SOIL PREFERENCE: Any soil type; any pH SIZE: 0.1-0.5m in height, 0.1-0.5m spread Native to South Africa, diascias have traditionally had to deal with far less accommodating climates than those found in the UK. But while they don’t mind working up a thirst, they don’t do too well in extreme cold, so consider moving them inside during winter. Fortunately, they thrive best in containers, pots and hanging baskets, which facilitates their movement no end. Having said that, they will do well in borders if the temperature doesn’t drop too sharply in the colder months. 6) Echeveria BOTANICAL NAME: Echeveria COMMON NAME (S): Hen-and-chicks HARDINESS RATING: H2 PLANT TYPE: Succulent FOLIAGE TYPE: Evergreen FLOWERING SEASON(S): Winter / Spring SUNLIGHT: Full Sun / partial Shade SOIL PREFERENCE: Loam, sand; any pH SIZE: 0.1-0.5m in height, 0.1-0.5m spread These stunning succulents come in a range of different shapes, sizes and colours, but all of them will take your breath away with their unusual and inimitable beauty. Take care to avoid touching the leaves when handling echeveria, since the bloom which lies upon them acts as their protection against the strong rays of the sun. 7) Geum BOTANICAL NAME: Geum COMMON NAME (S): Avens HARDINESS RATING: H7 PLANT TYPE: Perennial FOLIAGE TYPE: Semi-Evergreen FLOWERING SEASON(S): Spring / Summer / Autumn SUNLIGHT: Full Sun / Partial Shade SOIL PREFERENCE: Any soil type; any pH SIZE: Up to 50cm in height, 0.1-0.5m spread These compact and hardy perennials will appreciate some organic mulch around their base to help them conserve hydration, but other than that, they can do admirably well when left to their own devices. They flower for a lengthy period between late spring and early autumn, so prune them back after the first blossoms die away to encourage a second spurt of growth. They look best when several different varieties and colours are planted alongside one another. 8) Hardy Geranium BOTANICAL NAME: Geranium sylvaticum COMMON NAME (S): Cranesbill Geranium HARDINESS RATING: H6-H7 PLANT TYPE: Perennial FOLIAGE TYPE: Deciduous FLOWERING SEASON(S): Spring / Summer / Autumn SUNLIGHT: Full Sun / Partial Shade SOIL PREFERENCE: Any soil type; any pH SIZE: 0.1-1m in height, 0.1-1m spread What’s not to like about hardy geraniums? They’re incredibly robust little plants which can stand up well to drought, pests and diseases, while their prolific blossoms are complemented perfectly by the interesting texture of their foliage. It’s no surprise then, that hardy geraniums are one of the top picks when it comes to sourcing drought-resistant plants for your garden. The award-winning ‘Orion’ cultivar has one of the longest flowering seasons of its ilk.4 9) Judas Tree BOTANICAL NAME: Cercis siliquastrum COMMON NAME (S): Judas Tree HARDINESS RATING: H5 PLANT TYPE: Tree FOLIAGE TYPE: Deciduous FLOWERING SEASON(S): Spring FRUIT SEASON(S): Autumn SUNLIGHT: Full Sun / Partial Shade SOIL PREFERENCE: Any soil type; any pH SIZE: 8-12m in height, 4.5-10m spread The origins of this tree stretch back incredibly far, with fossil testing dating it at least 45 million years old.5 Over that time, the tree has learned to deal with an inclement weather event or two. It hails from south-eastern Europe and western Asia and although it prefers the warmer microclimates of those regions, it will tolerate the British weather just fine – with or without regular irrigation.6 10) Lavender BOTANICAL NAME: Lavandula COMMON NAME (S): Lavender HARDINESS RATING: H5 PLANT TYPE: Shrub FOLIAGE TYPE: Evergreen FLOWERING SEASON(S): Spring / Summer SUNLIGHT: Full Sun SOIL PREFERENCE: Chalk, loam, sand; neutral / alkaline pH SIZE: Up to 60cm in height, up to 1m spread Lavender is universally lauded for the enchanting fragrance of its flowers and its calming properties. That laid-back nature extends to its cultivation too, since its Mediterranean roots mean it can handle drought with no problem at all.7 All lavenders are popular with bees, butterflies and other pollinators and their aromatic qualities make them ideal for planting alongside pathways or near benches. Different spreads, heights and blooming periods are available depending on the cultivar in question. 11) Mexican Feather Grass BOTANICAL NAME: Stipa tenuissima COMMON NAME (S): Mexican Feather Grass HARDINESS RATING: H4 PLANT TYPE: Grass FOLIAGE TYPE: Deciduous FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer SUNLIGHT: Full Sun SOIL PREFERENCE: Any soil type; any pH SIZE: 0.5-1m in height, 0.1-0.5m spread The gently cascading fronds of Mexican feather grass dance gracefully in a breeze, explaining its widespread popularity across the UK. Add to that the fact that it’s extremely resistant to drought and it’s not hard to see why it’s a universal favourite. It works especially well in gravel gardens or at the rear of flower beds and borders. Just be mindful that the seeds have a tendency to be blown every which way by the wind and can propagate remarkably quickly, so be vigilant to avoid an invasion. 12) Pittosporum BOTANICAL NAME: Pittosporum COMMON NAME (S): Cheesewood HARDINESS RATING: H4-H5 PLANT TYPE: Shrub FOLIAGE TYPE: Evergreen FLOWERING SEASON(S): Spring / Summer SUNLIGHT: Full Sun / Partial Shade SOIL PREFERENCE: Any soil type; any pH SIZE: Up to 3m in height, up to 1.5m spread If you’re simply looking for year-round cover and colour (without floral blossoms), you can’t go far wrong with pittosporum. It’s highly resistant to both drought and heat, though it doesn’t enjoy colder climes quite so much, so keep it sheltered from bracing winds. There is a range of cultivars to choose from with this attractive evergreen shrub, each offering different shades and shapes of green on their leaves. The P. tenuifolium ‘Victoria’ option features pleasing variegation on its foliage, with newer shoots a delightfully lighter hue than more established counterparts. 13) Russian Sage BOTANICAL NAME: Salvia yangii COMMON NAME (S): Russian Sage HARDINESS RATING: H5 PLANT TYPE: Perennial FOLIAGE TYPE: Deciduous FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer / Autumn SUNLIGHT: Full Sun SOIL PREFERENCE: Chalk, loam, sand; any pH SIZE: 1.5m in height, 0.5m spread Cultivated since the beginning of the 20th century, Russian sage is a curious case in that it neither hails from Russia nor is it a true member of the sage family.8 It’s likely that it earned its popular moniker due to its use as an ingredient in cocktails with vodka as their base.9 In any case, this incredibly hardy specimen certainly seems as though it has steeled itself with some Dutch courage against the elements. Apparently impervious to excessive heat, cold and drought, as well as high salt content and poor-quality soil, Russian sage bears all its travails with its attractive silver foliage and brilliant blue blooms. 14) Sea Holly BOTANICAL NAME: Eryngium COMMON NAME (S): Sea Holly HARDINESS RATING: H5 PLANT TYPE: Perennial FOLIAGE TYPE: Deciduous FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer SUNLIGHT: Full Sun SOIL PREFERENCE: Sand; alkaline / neutral soil SIZE: Up to 60cm in height, up to 30cm spread The lengthy tap roots of sea holly make it adept at ferreting out water sources deep beneath the ground, meaning it isn’t fussed about missing out on rainfall or irrigation from above too much. What’s more, the spiky, steely blue of its leaves, topped by spherical cones of blue flowers, make it look almost like an imitation thistle. Its imposing height means it’s an excellent choice for providing a shock of colour to the rear of borders or in front of fences. 15) Sedum BOTANICAL NAME: Sedum COMMON NAME (S): Stonecrop HARDINESS RATING: H7 PLANT TYPE: Succulent FOLIAGE TYPE: Evergreen FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer SUNLIGHT: Full Sun SOIL PREFERENCE: Chalk, loam, sand; alkaline / neutral pH SIZE: 60cm in height, 60cm spread Sedums are succulents which come in a quite staggering array of heights, shapes and styles. From creeping stonecrops which offer impeccable ground coverage to upright specimens which add levels to your display, there’s something for every type of xeriscaping garden you can think of. Best of all, they’ll flourish regardless of hydration levels, making a mockery of the idea that water is crucial to all life. In fact, some species will even change colour depending on how thirsty they are, bringing a fascinating flux to your outdoor aesthetic.10 16) Sempervivum BOTANICAL NAME: Sempervivum COMMON NAME (S): Houseleek HARDINESS RATING: H7 PLANT TYPE: Perennial FOLIAGE TYPE: Evergreen FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer SUNLIGHT: Full Shade SOIL PREFERENCE: Loam, sand; any pH SIZE: Up to 10cm in height, 0.1-0.5m spread Another family of incredibly resilient succulents, sempervivum makes an excellent companion plant to sedum. They also require very little soil depth or quality to thrive, meaning they can lend themselves well to inventive and eye-catching decorative features like this one. Also known as houseleek, sempervivums really only have one demand that they place upon you: full exposure to sunlight. Other than that, they’ll flourish wherever you place them and however much attention you pay to them. 17) Star Jasmine BOTANICAL NAME: Trachelospermum jasminoides COMMON NAME (S): Star Jasmine HARDINESS RATING: H4 PLANT TYPE: Climber FOLIAGE TYPE: Evergreen FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer FRUIT SEASON(S): Autumn SUNLIGHT: Full Sun / Partial Shade SOIL PREFERENCE: Chalk, loam, sand; any pH SIZE: 8-12m in height, 4-8m spread If it’s a hassle-free climber you’re looking for, star jasmine could be the ideal choice. It will take plentiful watering and some maintenance to get it established and climbing along your chosen trellis, pergola or another preferred support system – but once it has taken root, there’s no stopping it. Capable of reaching 6m when properly supported, the star-shaped white flowers of star jasmine provide a gorgeous focal point from late spring onwards, while its intoxicating fragrance is a delightful accompaniment to the visual display. References 1. Arasteh, A. (n.d.). What can’t you do under a hosepipe ban? Check your postcode to see which rules are in place. The Telegraph. Retrieved March 15, 2023, from https://www.telegraph.co.uk/news/0/hosepipe-ban-uk-2022-area-rules-south-east-water-when/ 2. Heat Waves and Climate Change. (2022, July 27). Center for Climate and Energy Solutions. Retrieved March 15, 2023, from https://www.c2es.org/content/heat-waves-and-climate-change/ 3. Rhizome | Description, Functions, & Examples. (2023, March 6). Encyclopedia Britannica. Retrieved March 15, 2023, from https://www.britannica.com/science/rhizome 4. Geranium “Orion.” (n.d.). Royal Horticultural Society. Retrieved March 15, 2023, from https://www.rhs.org.uk/plants/137507/geranium-orion/details 5. Judas Tree. (n.d.). Bartlett Tree Experts. Retrieved March 15, 2023, from https://www.bartlett.com/resources/tree-species/judas-tree 6. Cercis siliquastrum —The Judas Tree. (n.d.-b). Arboretum Foundation. Retrieved March 15, 2023, from https://www.arboretumfoundation.org/wp-content/uploads/2010/11/anderson_judas-tree.pdf 7. Lavenders for Drought Tolerant Gardens. (n.d.). Master Gardener. Retrieved March 15, 2023, from https://ucanr.edu/datastoreFiles/268-690.pdf 8. Perovskia atriplicifolia | Russian sage. (n.d.). Royal Horticultural Society. Retrieved March 15, 2023, from https://www.rhs.org.uk/plants/12557/perovskia-atriplicifolia/details 9. The Cocktail Drinker’s Guide to Gardening. (2021, May 19). FrenchEntrée. Retrieved March 15, 2023, from https://www.frenchentree.com/living-in-france/local-life/gardening/the-cocktail-drinkers-guide-to-gardening-2/ 10. RHS Garden Hyde Hall. (n.d.). Royal Horticultural Society. Retrieved March 15, 2023, from https://www.rhs.org.uk/gardens/hyde-hall
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Crab Apple Trees Work In Most Gardens - Horticulturists Share Their Growing Tips
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Crab Apple Varieties How To Grow & Care For Crab Apples Planting Pruning Common Problems References Crab apple trees are ideal for most gardens because they not only look great almost all year round with their spring blossom and autumnal foliage but they produce colourful fruit that can be used for delicious recipes. As a relatively small tree, crab apples are a great way of bringing some height and structure into a garden and are a haven for wildlife as well. Part of the Rosaceae family, crab apples are hardy and deciduous trees that are relatively small depending on their actual variety. Overview Botanical Name Malus Common Name(s) Crab Apple Plant Type Fruit Tree Native Area Asia Hardiness Rating H6 Foliage Deciduous Flowers Pink and white clusters When To Plant Winter When To Harvest Autumn When To Prune Winter They are not to be confused with our sadly uncommon and native wild crab apple, Malus sylvestris, which grows amongst hedgerows and wood. The majority of crab apples grown today are in fact derived from other species. Crab apple trees tend to produce small to medium size fruits, which are often yellow, orange or red in colour depending on the variety. The fruits can be rather unpalatable and tart when eaten raw, but they are perfect for making delicious jams, jellies and sauces.1 Most crab apple trees produce a wonderful, often scented blossom, with either pink or white flowers, which not only look stunning and signal the arrival of spring, but are loved by pollinators as well. Crab apple trees are self-fertile and are sometimes planted near other apple trees or in orchards, as crab apples can pollinate other apples depending on their pollination group. Long associated with love and fertility, crab apples are rich in symbolism and are sometimes known as ‘jewels of the countryside’, especially during winter when their fruits hang like gems amongst the bare branches.2 When used for burning they are often prized, as the wood gives off a sweet scent when burned. “Planting a young crab apple tree bare root in winter will be inexpensive and give you instant blossom the following spring and decorative fruits in the autumn,” shares Garden Designer Non Morris. Crab Apple Varieties There are many different crab apple tree varieties that grow well here in the UK and can be found in various forms from half standards and weeping varieties to columnar habits. With pale or dark blossoms, large or small fruits, for culinary purposes or purely ornamental, the choice is endless. However, here are some of the most widely available varieties here in the UK. Malus ‘John Downie’ ‘John Downie’ is a widely grown variety which will grow to an eventual 6m in height and 4m in spread over time. It produces beautiful white flowers in spring and large orange fruits, perfect for making preserves. Malus × atrosanguinea ‘Gorgeous’ This ‘Gorgeous’ variety produces a lovely white blossom in spring and a heavy crop of red fruits, which stay on the tree right into winter and give some lovely winter interest to the garden. Grows to an eventual height of 5m and spread about 4m wide. “One of my favourite varieties is ‘Gorgeous’, which has large, glossy, bright, red fruits which remain on the tree until Christmas,” says Non. Malus ‘Evereste’ This variety can grow to up to 6m tall and 5m wide over time. With its larger-than-average white flowers in spring, stunning fruit and more conical form, it is a great specimen to behold. Having been awarded the RHS Award of Garden Merit (AGM) it has been shown to perform reliably well.3 Malus ‘Comtesse de Paris’ ‘Comtesse de Paris’ is a small tree growing to only 4m tall and 3m wide over time. It displays a stunning white blossom following pink-tinged buds in spring and yellow fruits into the autumn. Similar to Malus ‘Golden Hornet’, although with better disease resistance.4 Malus ‘Wisley Crab’ This variety is slightly different. With its purple blossom in spring, it produces large and dark red fruits into autumn, which are great for making jellies. When mature it can reach heights of up to 5m and a 4m spread. How To Grow & Care For Crab Apples Crab apples tend to grow best in loamy soils, but will grow well in any moist, well-drained and fertile soil. They are not a fussy tree to grow, but do dislike waterlogged ground, so it is best to grow them in free draining soil. Crab apples can be grown in either full sun or partial shade and will cope with either a sheltered or exposed site. However, they will certainly benefit with some shelter from the winds to protect the blossom and encourage pollination. Crab apple trees can be bought either as potted throughout the year or as bare root from November until March. Bare root trees should be planted quickly on arrival. However, if this is not possible due to the ground being frozen or covered in snow, the tree can be stored somewhere cool with its roots wrapped in polythene (if purchased as a bare root tree) to stop them from drying out. Planting To plant a crab apple tree, dig a square hole twice as wide as the root ball or roots and at least as deep, loosening the soil at the sides and bottom of the hole. Place a tree stake near to where the main stem will be and lower the tree into the hole to the same depth as it was previously planted. Backfill with soil, gently firming the soil in around the roots to avoid any air pockets. Water in well, attach the tree to the stake with a rubber tie and lay an organic mulch around the tree, which will help suppress weeds and conserve moisture. Water well for the first few years, especially during hot and dry spells, until established, as Master Horticulturist Roy Nicol shares: “A lack of watering is the most common reason for a tree to fail. “Either tree irrigation bags or tree irrigation kits, where a plastic tube down to the tree’s roots is installed when planting, can be used to ensure a plentiful supply of water for the growing tree.” Pruning Crab apples belong to pruning group one and require formative pruning to encourage a good open shape to allow light and air in. Most newly purchased trees will come with formative pruning instructions to follow, but guidance can be found online if required. Once established, crab apple trees are similar to other apple trees and require annual pruning to remove any dead, diseased and crossing branches. Common Problems Scab Crab apples are susceptible to a fungal disease called scab or Venturia inaequalis. Scab spores are airborne and can even survive the winter, harbouring in fallen leaves. Symptoms of scab often include brown scabby spots on the fruit, cracking on branches and twigs and green blotches on the foliage, which gradually become darker and often lead to the leaves falling prematurely. No chemical control is currently available for the home grower, so if scab is present swift action is recommended. Cracked or blistered wood and fallen, infected leaves and fruit need to be removed in order to reduce the amount of fungus around for the following growing season. Apple Canker Canker is another fungal disease, Neonectria ditissima, that can affect apples, pears and some other species. Apple canker affects the bark and wood of the tree, leading to the bark dying and eventual dead branches. “Although certain varieties are more susceptible to canker than others, canker normally enters the tree via a wound of some kind, so care should be taken to avoid damaging the bark of the tree, which is easily done when pruning,” shares Roy. Cankers tend to appear in spring with the bark dying and eventually falling off, leaving the dead wood of the inner tree exposed and leading to the wood above the canker dying. There is sadly no chemical control for canker. If canker is spotted, the advice is to cut off any affected smaller branches or twigs and cut the canker out of larger branches removing all diseased bark and wood. “It’s very important to sterilise tools after this as the fungal infection can be carried to the next tree being pruned,” adds Roy. The wounds can then be painted with a wound-healing paint that will hopefully prohibit any reinfection to the wound. Fireblight Fireblight was first discovered in the UK in the 1950s and is a bacterial disease that looks as though the leaves and twigs have been scorched, hence its name.5 Fireblight usually affects apple, pear and other ornamental trees in the Rosaceae family from spring through until autumn. Caused by the Erwinia amylovora bacteria, symptoms can include scorched-looking shoots, cankers appearing and flowers dying at the time when they should be in bloom. As with canker, there is no chemical control available. Instead, if fireblight is spotted it is recommended to act swiftly, as fireblight spreads rapidly and to cut off any infected material and some way back into healthy wood. Again, it is important to not compost any affected prunings and disinfect any tools used. References 1. Crab apple. (2022, May 30). BBC Good Food. Retrieved March 14, 2023, from https://www.bbcgoodfood.com/glossary/crab-apple-glossary 2. Crab Apple (Malus sylvestris). (n.d.). Woodland Trust. Retrieved March 14, 2023, from https://www.woodlandtrust.org.uk/trees-woods-and-wildlife/british-trees/a-z-of-british-trees/crab-apple/ 3. See RHS lists of top AGM garden-worthy plants, fruit & veg. (n.d.). Royal Horticultural Society. Retrieved May 15, 2023, from https://www.rhs.org.uk/plants/trials-awards/award-of-garden-merit/agm-lists 4. Malus “Golden Hornet.” (n.d.). Royal Horticultural Society. Retrieved March 14, 2023, from https://www.rhs.org.uk/plants/98350/malus-golden-hornet/details 5. Erwinia amylovora (fireblight). (2022, January 7). CABI Compendium. https://doi.org/10.1079/cabicompendium.21908
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How To Grow Phlox With Emily Cupit: Important Considerations For Thriving Plants
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Phlox Types Where To Grow Phlox Ongoing Plant Care Companion Planting References These herbaceous show-stoppers are favoured in borders up and down the country. Mostly available in the tall, perennial form, there are also certain annual varieties more suited to bedding. Whichever cultivar you opt for, you’ll be rewarded with delightful clusters of star-shaped flower-heads during blooming season, which generally runs from July to September but can vary depending upon species. What’s more, they’re not just a pretty face – they also smell divine. That makes them a firm favourite not just with the human population, but with bees, butterflies and other pollinators, too. Overview Botanical Name Phlox Common Name(s) Phlox, Border Phlox Plant Type Herbaceous Perennial (some annual species) Native Area North America Hardiness Rating H6/H7 Foliage Deciduous Flowers Panicles of five-petaled flowers When To Plant Spring or Autumn Harvesting Months June, July, August When To Prune Deadhead after flowering (summer) Due to their ease of cultivation and the hardiness with which they endure British winters, phlox are a popular option in herbaceous borders throughout the country. They originally hail from North America (though there is one cultivar native to Siberia), meaning the switch to the UK climate is not a drastic one.1 Though most varieties of phlox are quite tall, their stems are generally quite robust and don’t often require staking unless exposed to particularly harsh wind conditions. Having said that, there are also a number of low-growing varieties which make attractive bedding and ground cover options. Phlox Types In the wild, phlox plants are capable of exceeding 2m in height. However, years of breeding have refined them to a more manageable stature, with most cultivars now reaching between 1-1.2m at most. They’re available in a wide variety of colours, while smaller specimens can also be obtained. The most common types include: P. paniculata This variety of phlox is undoubtedly the most popular species of phlox in the UK. ‘Blue Paradise’ is a popular option growing to 1.2m which, despite its name, bears gorgeous violet flowers.2 ‘Purple Eye Flame’ is a smaller alternative (up to 40cm in height and spread) with petals of a deeper purple melting into white at the centre. P. divaricata A woodland breed of phlox, this group of plants requires partial shade and terrain that’s rich in humus to replicate the conditions of a forest. With a spread (50cm) greater than its height (35cm), it’s perfect for cultivating in picturesque clumps beneath deciduous trees or at the periphery of a colourful border. “I have been a huge fan of Phlox divaricata ever since I saw it growing on the High Line, a raised public park in New York,” shares Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly. “A spring bloomer, it is a good woodland plant to fill the gap between spring bulbs and early summer flowers.” P. drummondii Unlike most varieties of phlox, this species is an annual which is most popular as a bedding plant for its vibrant display during the summer months. It spreads readily, making it an excellent option for plugging gaps, and its beautiful blossoms, which cover the whole spectrum of blue and purple, look great in containers or as cut flowers. See more interesting varieties of Phlox in this guide. Where To Grow Phlox As mentioned above, phlox are generally revered for their ability to enliven borders. Unsurprisingly, taller varieties work well to the rear of a border, while smaller ones are perfect for the front or for filling in empty patches in beds and rockeries. They also appreciate a decent amount of sunshine, though woodland varieties do better in partial shade. Take advantage of the favourable conditions in spring and autumn by planting them when the terrain is still moist and warm. Ongoing Plant Care As unfussy plants, phlox are generally not that demanding in terms of the TLC you bestow upon them, especially perennial varieties which have had time to properly establish themselves. However, you’ll still want to pay attention to the following: Watering Phlox will require copious amounts of watering upon initial planting to help the roots get a good grip on the terrain. Thereafter, they don’t require any irrigation, unless you’re hit by a long period of dry weather. They do enjoy a drink so don’t let them die of thirst – at the first sign of wilting foliage, give them a good dousing. Water at the base and target the roots rather than overhead, and do so in the morning before the heat of the day dries the moisture. Light Requirements Most varieties of phlox enjoy exposure to full sun, but will also tolerate dappled shade and woodland varieties actually prefer it. Soil Requirements Phlox are generally undemanding creatures and will do well in most soil types, as long as there is good drainage but not too much aridity. Sandy soils, or those which do not receive much rainfall, should be enhanced with organic mulch and irrigated thoroughly. Fertilising Fertiliser should only be necessary if growing phlox in poor quality or particularly arid soil. In that case, use organic mulch to improve the terrain and retain moisture when planting and afterwards, or else feed with a commercial fertiliser every spring. Common Pests Although generally free from pests and diseases, powdery mildew can develop on plants which aren’t receiving enough water. Spider mites and eelworm can also damage foliage and stunt growth. Rabbit and deer can also pose a nuisance. Companion Planting The vibrancy of phlox’s blooms is the chief reason why people opt for it, so position it wherever you require a dash of colour to brighten up drab surroundings. You can mix them in with other herbaceous perennials, such as abelias, campanulas, delphiniums, geraniums, monardas, poppies and red hot pokers, or else make them the star of the show by contrasting with ornamental grasses. References 1. Gentry, K. (2018, May 1). Native Phlox: A Virginia Garden Gem. Loudoun Wildlife Conservancy. Retrieved March 22, 2023, from https://loudounwildlife.org/2018/05/native-phlox-a-virginia-garden-gem/ 2. Phlox paniculata “Blue Paradise.” (n.d.). Royal Horticultural Society. Retrieved March 22, 2023, from https://www.rhs.org.uk/plants/50575/phlox-paniculata-blue-paradise/details
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Basil Propagation - 'Check That The Cutting Has Between Two And Four Pairs Of Leaves'
IN THIS GUIDE 1) Select Your Mother Plant 2) Take Your Cuttings 3) Prune And Trim 4) Place In Water 5) Allow To Root 6) Transplant Into Pots 7) Aftercare References Basil is extremely simple to grow and propagate, which means even the most novice horticulturists can cultivate it with ease. That’s a far better alternative to buying basil from the supermarket every week, since your basil will invariably be fresher, cheaper and more easily accessible. You can even use a store-bought plant to take cuttings from and propagate your own! Just follow these simple steps and you can’t go far wrong: Select your mother plant Take your cuttings Prepare your cuttings with a prune and trim Place cuttings in water Allow them time to root Transplant your cuttings into pots Take care of your newly propagated plants If those instructions sound a little daunting to you, don’t worry. Difficulty Easy Equipment Required Pruning scissors, mason jar, pots, potting compost When To Take Cuttings May (if planning to plant outdoors), anytime if growing indoors We’ve explained each step in greater detail to make things as straightforward and free from stress as possible below: 1) Select Your Mother Plant The health and maturity of the plant from which you take your cuttings is all-important in ensuring that they not only survive, but thrive. Avoid any plant which has wilting or drooping leaves, holes in the foliage or any sort of discolouration on any part of the plant. You also want a plant that’s mature enough to withstand pruning, but not too mature that it’s already begun flowering. Select one which has at least four sets of leaves per stem. It’s irrelevant whether this is a plant you have cultivated yourself (perhaps from previous cuttings) or a store-bought one from a garden centre or supermarket. 2) Take Your Cuttings When taking your cutting, follow the stem all the way down to the lowest leaf node on it, then make an angled cut with pruning scissors or secateurs just above that point. Don’t be fearful of trimming the mother plant, since regular pruning is actually beneficial to its health. This is because it prevents it from becoming leggy and overgrown. Depending on the size and age of your mother plant, you should be able to obtain multiple cuttings from the same plant. Indeed, in the healthiest specimens, it’s possible to take upwards of ten cuttings from your mother plant. 3) Prune And Trim Before moving on to the next stage of the process, you must prepare the cutting for rooting. “First, check that the cutting has between two and four pairs of leaves – long stems can be cut into two cuttings,” shares Peter Lickorish, a Horticulture Lecturer. Then thin the foliage on the cutting, especially at the bottom. Strip away all of the lower leaves to halfway up the stem, since being submerged in the water will hamper the growth and development of the cutting. Having said that, you do not want to prune away all of the leaves. Those at the top of the plant must remain to allow the plant to continue to photosynthesise. One optional step is to dip the cut end of the stem into a rooting hormone or honey to give it the best chance of flourishing – but this is not strictly necessary. 4) Place In Water Now it’s time to place your cutting or cuttings in water. The best receptacle for this job is a glass vessel, such as a mason jar. This will allow you to see how clean the water is – since maintaining cleanliness is key to preventing bacteria from taking hold and keeping your cuttings as healthy as possible.1 It’s also advisable to use dechlorinated water. You can do this by boiling tap water and then allowing it to cool. Although not absolutely necessary, it’s another way of ensuring the cuttings have the best chance possible. “Being quick is good with cuttings!” says Peter. “Think of them as a fish out of water. If you have lots to trim and prepare, keep them in a damp freezer bag so they don’t dry out before it’s their turn to get placed in water.” Place them in the water so that the upper foliage rests on the lip of the jar. 5) Allow To Root Place the receptacle in a location that receives plenty of morning sunshine, such as an eastern-facing windowsill. Indirect sunlight in the afternoon is preferable since, although basil does love sunlight, too much of a good thing can end up scorching the leaves and hindering its growth. The exact time it takes for roots to appear may vary from plant to plant, though generally speaking you should expect to see some growth within the first couple of weeks. However, you should wait until the roots have reached 5-8cm in length before transplanting, which normally occurs after around a month. 6) Transplant Into Pots At this point, you can now move your cuttings into compost, as Peter explains: “Make sure you crumble the compost up to make it nice and fine. “It will come as a shock to find hard lumpy compost, having had only water around the roots. “seed compost is especially fine.” Prepare pots by filling them around half full with potting compost, ensuring that they have good drainage at the bottom. You can plant more than one cutting in a single pot, especially if roots have become intertwined in the same jar, but generally speaking, you want to separate them. Place the cutting (or cuttings) onto the compost and gently splay the roots as widely as possible. Then layer more potting compost onto them and tamp it down around the stem to keep it upright. While it is possible to plant your basil cuttings outdoors, it’s much more challenging (especially in the UK climate), so we recommend keeping them potted and moving outdoors only during summer. “They will need a degree of weaning before they’re ready for life outdoors,” says Peter. 7) Aftercare Water the compost of your potted cuttings to ensure that it is damp but not sodden – you don’t want to drown your fledgling plants! You should also observe a regular watering schedule thereafter, irrigating your plants whenever the top centimetre of the soil is dry. With the cuttings now fully potted and watered, you can give yourself a pat on the back as you’ll have created potential new mother plants for the future. Remember to harvest the leaves frequently to encourage further growth and to ensure that you always have enough basil around the kitchen to satisfy you and your family’s cravings for this delectable herb! Happy propagating. References 1. Hygiene In Plant Propagation. (2004, December). Nursery & Garden Industry in Australia. Retrieved April 17, 2023, from https://www.greenlifeindustry.com.au/static/uploads/files/np-2004-11-wfrlrsunfssp.pdf
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Mint Needs Regular Harvesting - It Prevents Spreading And Encourages Fresh Growth
IN THIS GUIDE 1) The Window Of Opportunity 2) Pick Leaves As Needed 3) The ‘Harvest Proper’ 4) Storing Mint Mint is so easy to grow that, once planted, it tends to grow itself. In fact, it does that a little too well and can spread quickly by underground roots, meaning that when it’s grown outside, it needs regular harvesting. Another alternative to avoid such takeovers is to confine mint to containers. It is a great pot plant for the kitchen window, as its little leaves are a decorative brilliant green and are aromatic with air-freshening qualities. As for the technique of harvesting mint from the garden patch, to be honest, this is one of those few ultra-robust plants that you can pick or cut off any old way without fear of harming it. Still, you can maximise the quality of your harvest by choosing the right moment and the right leaves, which will also maximise the growth of the plants. You can do so by using the process that we explain below: Difficulty Easy Equipment Required Optional gardening gloves, optional scissors When To Harvest May through October; July is the prime month 1) The Window Of Opportunity Mint can be harvested on an ongoing basis clear from May through October and this period can be longer in some regions of the UK. However, there is a window of opportunity that you should exploit. This is the period just before mint plants come into flower. For most varieties, this will be sometime in July. At this time, mint leaves are particularly rich in oil and full of that minty flavour. Keep an eye on your mint plants from late June onwards; when you see them budding, that window of opportunity has opened. Mint flowers look like tiny bottlebrushes and in bud form they are undeveloped and green. 2) Pick Leaves As Needed Mint may be harvested continually from May into October on an as-needed basis. This should be done in the morning, preferably mid-morning. To harvest mint, simply pluck (or use a small pair of scissors) selected little bunches of leaves at their stems by pinching them off with the thumb and forefinger just above a set of leaves – it’s from this point the plant will put on fresh growth ready for the next harvest. The smallest, youngest growth will have the freshest, sharpest flavour. Try to pick stems and leaves evenly among your mint plants, if only to retain a balanced shape. 3) The ‘Harvest Proper’ You can collect a bigger harvest in one go, whilst at the same time keeping your mint plants in good trim by pruning, which will also encourage fresh growth. Using a pair of scissors, cut a number of the plants at the main stem just below a set of leaves about a third of the way down (you can cut off less if you choose). Do not cut plants unevenly; snip them so as to strike a balance between harvested plants and those left as-is. Otherwise, aesthetics will be poor as the growth will be uneven. On your next go-round a month or two later, you can harvest from the plants you have previously left. 4) Storing Mint Mint is best at its freshest. The style of picking outlined in step two should be utilised to obtain fresh mint for the kitchen, but when you harvest mint as outlined in step three, you may need to store it. First, wash the mint in running water or swirl it around in a bowlful of water. To store for a couple of days, wrap the mint in a sheet of newspaper and put it in the fridge’s crisper or to store for several days, put sprigs of mint in a glass of water, similar to flowers in a vase, and put it in the fridge. To store for 8-10 months, air dry the mint (though it does not need to be fully dried out), put it in a zip-lock bag, squeeze out the air, zip up the bag, and put it in the freezer. Another way to store it for several months is to chop up the mint and put small portions into an ice-cube tray. Add water, and put in the freezer, then take out the mint ice cubes as and when you need them. Finally, you can store dried mint for up to 18 months by making small bundles of mint, tying up the stems with cotton twine, and then suspending them, say from hooks or a shelf, for drying. Use a dark, dry room for this purpose. You could run a standalone fan at a slow speed to speed up the drying process. After a couple of weeks, the mint will have dried out and can then be crushed, crumbled or chopped up, and put in an air-tight mason jar.
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Daffodil Blindness: Specialist Growers Share Common Reasons Narcissus Doesn't Flower
IN THIS GUIDE What Is Daffodil Blindness? Why Do Daffodils Come Up Blind? Reducing Chances Of Daffodil Blindness References Daffodil blindness can be a disappointing problem and you might not know how to fix the problem. In this article, we’ll take a look at this issue and what you might be able to do about it. What Is Daffodil Blindness? Daffodil blindness is the name given to the phenomenon when daffodils come up with foliage but do not flower. The leaves can be healthy and numerous, yet flowers do not form. “Daffodils that grow but fail to bloom because of daffodil blindness might not bloom because of several causes,” says Janet Hickman from the American Daffodil Society. “Some, especially those with late-season double flowers, may ‘blast’, meaning the bud appears but dries up and fails to open, usually due to the weather becoming too hot too soon.” It can be caused by environmental conditions, gardener error, or several different pests or diseases. In general terms, daffodil blindness is a sign that the development of the bulbs has been affected in some way. Why Do Daffodils Come Up Blind? Environmental Conditions After they have flowered and the flowers have faded, daffodils should continue to grow for a further period of a few weeks, to replenish their energy stocks through photosynthesis. This energy is stored in the bulb for next year. In certain environmental conditions, such as when there is a drought or the weather is very dry, daffodils may die prematurely, before these energy reserves have been stored. “A prolonged period of dry weather after flowering was the most common reason for daffodil blindness this year as it followed the early drought last year (2022),” shares Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly. “Usually mowing too early is the culprit.” “A planting site that was once ideal may gradually become overshadowed by the growth of trees and shrubs causing a decline of daffodil flowering,” explains Janet. Anne Wright from Dryad Nursery recommends moving your plants to a sunny location if they are growing in the shade or cutting back any overhanging branches from nearby trees and shrubs that may be blocking the light from getting to your plant. Blindness can also occur due to a lack of nutrition in the growing medium or soil. Daffodils that have just been planted the previous year will usually flower well in their first year, but in poor and low-nutrient soil, performance can diminish rapidly and blindness can occur. If you have had successful daffodil blooms over a number of years, in a bed or border, or in pots, the blindness may have occurred due to overcrowding.1 Overcrowding can lead to blindness or poor flowering. Gardener Error A number of errors by gardeners can also be to blame for daffodil blindness. One issue may be that bulbs were planted too late as bulbs planted after September will not tend to do as well. The bulbs may also have been planted too shallowly in the soil. Planting daffodils too shallowly can encourage the formation of lots of small bulbs – too small to flower successfully. Another big mistake that gardeners can make which can lead to blindness is removing or mowing over daffodil foliage too soon after flowering. As mentioned above, daffodils require a period of active growth after flowers fade in order to gather up energy reserves for the following year. Gardeners may also, in the pursuit of a neat and tidy garden, knot up the foliage after flowers fade, tying them together in a bunch. This can also cause problems as the leaves will not be as able to gather the energy they need for successful flowering the following year and blindness can occur. Pests & Diseases Pests such as narcissus eelworm and narcissus bulb fly can damage bulbs below the soil, which can lead to poor flowering or blindness. “Bulb flies can attack the growing bulb, depositing eggs that hatch into destructive larvae,” says Janet. If daffodils do not flower, this can also be due to diseases like daffodil viruses and narcissus basal rot.2 These things can sometimes cause bulbs to die altogether, but can also simply lead to a decline in flowering. Usually, if a pest or disease is to blame, the issues can be hard to detect, but foliage may appear stunted or yellow prematurely. Reducing Chances Of Daffodil Blindness Many of the causes of daffodil blindness can be removed through careful preparation and plant care. Environmental conditions and causes related to gardener error can often be remedied relatively easily by the gardener. 1) Improve Environmental Conditions Preparing the site well before planting can help reduce the chances of blindness. The American Daffodil Society recommend growing your daffodils in a position that receives at least 6 hours of sunlight a day in soil that is very well-draining. Make sure that any issues with compaction and poor drainage, or excessively free-draining soils have been addressed. Add plenty of organic matter. Make sure you have chosen a suitable spot for your daffodils which will not become too dry. When dry conditions prevail after flowering, water thoroughly and well until the plants show signs of dying down naturally. Mulching around your bulbs with organic matter will help reduce moisture loss and will also help by adding slow-release nutrients to the soil. Where flowering declines rapidly and nutritional issues are suspected, consider feeding daffodils with a general-purpose organic fertiliser in the spring. Anne Wright suggests feeding your plants with a high-potash fertiliser at the first sign of something being not quite right. After flowering, especially when daffodils are grown in containers, it can also be helpful to feed every couple of weeks with a high-potassium organic liquid plant feed, from when the blooms have faded until the plants begin to die back naturally. If your daffodils are blind due to overcrowding, lift the bulbs when the foliage dies back. Replant bulbs in a bed or border so that there is a gap of at least 5-7.5cm between each one, making sure that you add plenty of organic matter such as homemade compost or well-rotted manure before replanting. 2) Plant Quality Bulbs At The Correct Depth First of all, make sure that you start out with good quality daffodil bulbs so that you can expect to achieve the best results when you get things right. If you want to naturalise daffodils in a lawn area, then make sure you select bulbs which are well suited to this situation. Ideally, plant these bulbs before the end of September, and wherever they are to grow, plant the bulbs at 2-3 times their own depth. Make sure that you leave daffodil foliage in place for a period of at least 6 weeks to allow them to build up energy reserves for next year. “Don’t cut back or tie the leaves after flowering, and watch for slug damage on flowers,” Anne warns. Allow them to remain and photosynthesise naturally. 3) Address Any Pests Or Diseases Unfortunately, there is no treatment for narcissus bulb fly or typical daffodil diseases. If you suspect that pests or disease are the issue, any affected bulbs should be removed and destroyed. If you have unearthed daffodil bulbs to find larvae of the narcissus bulb fly, get rid of infested bulbs and consider covering any remaining plantings with insect-proof netting between mid-May and early July, which may discourage the females from laying their eggs. Remove any bulbs suspected to be diseased as soon as possible. If basal rot has occurred, but you wish to continue to grow narcissus in a given location, consider opting for N. tazetta cultivars, which are resistant.3 If you bear all the above in mind, you should often be able to avoid this issue and be able to solve the problem of blind daffodils or poor daffodil flowering in your garden where it has occurred. References 1. Daffodils won’t bloom if too crowded. (2016, January 7). Livingston Daily Press. Retrieved March 14, 2023, from https://eu.livingstondaily.com/story/life/home-garden/2016/01/07/daffodils-bloom-crowded/78135090/ 2. Narcissus basal rot. (n.d.). Royal Horticultural Society. Retrieved March 14, 2023, from https://www.rhs.org.uk/disease/narcissus-basal-rot 3. Narcissus tazetta “Geranium.” (n.d.). Royal Horticultural Society. Retrieved March 14, 2023, from https://www.rhs.org.uk/plants/224368/narcissus-tazetta-geranium/details
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