Growing
Roots Emerging From The Base Of Your Pot? Time To Repot Your Monstera Plant
IN THIS GUIDE Common Issues When To Repot Choosing A Container How To Repot Ongoing Plant Care The Swiss cheese plant, Monstera deliciosa, is a popular house plant which is generally remarkably easy to grow. However, there are certain issues that may occur and you do need to think about certain things when repotting a Swiss cheese plant. In this guide, we will help you understand some of the things that can go wrong when growing monsteras and we will share the best time to repot, as well as how to do so. Common Issues One reason to repot a Monstera is that there is a serious issue with the existing environment you have provided. The existing container may be too small or too large for a smaller plant, or it might not have suitable drainage at the base. A container should allow at least an inch of space around the root ball of the monstera on all sides, but too large a container right away can cause water-related issues. You also may not have chosen a suitable growing medium. Monsteras need a good peat-free multipurpose compost or an equivalent homemade mix to thrive. Finally, you might have overwatered your monstera and the growing medium may have become severely waterlogged and compacted. Wilting leaves can be a sign that you have either watered too much or watered too little, but it can also be a sign that repotting is required. When To Repot Monsteras should be repotted as it grows to ensure that the roots continue to have at least an inch of growing medium around them. If you see signs of wilting, check to make sure that the wilting is not occurring because the roots have run out of space. If the roots are emerging from the base of the pot it is time to choose a new, larger container. While monsteras are young, it is typical to repot them every spring before the new leaves emerge. Monsteras can grow quite rapidly and to a huge size if allowed to do so. Usually, those growing Swiss cheese plants indoors will pot up until the plant reaches the largest manageable size for their space, then prune the plant in order to restrict its growth and avoid the need to repot into ever-increasing sized containers. Once your monstera reaches a mature size and you no longer want to repot it into a larger container, repotting will not be required every year. Instead, you will carefully remove the top 1/3 of the growing medium in the pot from around your monstera and replenish it with fresh potting mix each spring. Choosing A Container Remember to choose a pot which is sturdy and large enough to accommodate your monstera at its current stage of growth. Smaller monsteras may easily find a place on a small windowsill, but larger, more mature specimens can grow much larger and will require much more commodious accommodation. One other thing to remember is that larger specimens are typically going to require some support. Typically, they are planted in a large pot with a moss-covered pole or wooden stake. Make sure that your new pot for a mature specimen is large and heavy enough not to tip over and that it can accommodate your growing plant and its support. How To Repot Follow the steps below to successfully repot your monstera: Choose your new container. Place a support stake or pole if required. Carefully remove your plant from its previous pot. Place the plant into the new container, so that it is sitting just slightly deeper than it was previously. Fill in the growing medium around the plant’s base roots and around any aerial roots which reach the potting medium. Where necessary, tie the plant gently to the new support. Water deeply immediately after repotting. Ongoing Plant Care After re-potting, you are going to want to care for your plant so that it is able to quickly establish itself in its new home. Monstera are pretty easy to care for, even for those who do not have a lot of experience with houseplants. Where To Place Your Monstera Place Monstera in a light, bright location but somewhere out of direct sunlight, which can cause the leaves to burn. A spot a few feet away from a window which lets in plentiful light can be ideal. Avoid locating your potted plant too close to a heat source, and keep it out of drafts. These plants prefer a place where there is moderate to high humidity and misting may be beneficial where the environment is prone to dryness. In terms of temperatures, monsteras can cope with temperatures as low as 10°C and will grow as long as temperatures are above 18°C. They will, however, do best when they are grown in temperatures between 20-30°C. Watering Monsteras require moderately moist conditions, but will not like overwatering or waterlogged conditions. “Just as the light levels should reflect the forest floor from which monsteras come, so too should the moisture levels,” says Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly. “Forest floors are typically high in decomposing leaf litter, which holds moisture but also drains freely. “This is what your potting and watering should achieve – regular watering but in a pot and growing medium that allows the water to flow through freely rather than becoming clogged.” Exact watering requirements will depend on the location, conditions and time of year. However, as a general rule of thumb, you should water when the top few centimetres of the growing medium are dry. When they are, you should water well, allowing excess water to drain away freely. Remember that your plant will need less water during the coldest winter months and more during warmer summer periods. Pruning Remember, to keep the size of a monstera in check and avoid repotting to an ever larger container, you will need to prune your monstera. Pruning both the above-ground plant and the root system will help keep your Swiss cheese plant in check. Stems can then be cut off at the base to restrict the size of the plant and keep it happy in the size of the container you have chosen. To keep a monstera small, you can also prune the roots. Simply remove the plant from the pot, carefully brush away the soil, and tease out the roots. You can cut back up to around a third of the subterranean roots from a mature plant to restrict its size without damaging its health. Aerial roots (once these form on mature specimens) should be left in place if possible.
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Dahlia Nurseries Share These Favourite Varieties For Dazzling Colours And Shapes
IN THIS GUIDE Expert-Chosen Varieties 1) D. ‘Waltzing Mathilda’ 2) D. ‘Café au Lait’ 3) D. ‘Totally Tangerine’ 4) D. ‘Cornel Brons’ 5) D. ‘Bishop of Canterbury’ 6) D. ‘Arabian Night’ 7) D. ‘Gallery Rembrandt’ 8) D. ‘David Howard’ 9) D. ‘Honka Rose’ 10) D. ‘Purple Gem’ 11) D. ‘Black Jack’ 12) D. ‘Boom Boom White’ 13) D. ‘Bishop Of York’ 14) D. ‘Labyrinth’ 15) D. ‘Thomas A. Edison’ 16) D. ’Linda’s Baby’ 17) D. ‘Alfred Grille’ References Dahlias are a genus of tuberous perennials native to Mexico that can grow well here in the United Kingdom if given a sunny and sheltered spot.1 “Dahlias that come towards the end of the summer are just wonderful, although I rarely succeed in growing them myself, so I really appreciate them in other gardens,” shares Floral Artist Lora Avedian. A popular plant and widely grown here in the United Kingdom that has seen a resurgence over the past few years and for good reason, dahlias are available in a dazzling array of colours, sizes and shapes and can flower for months on end. “Dahlias can be incorporated for some late summer colour explosions into many gardens, big or small,” shares Head Gardener of a private gardens in Somerset, Elliott Beveridge. Easy to grow and care for, there are even some that are loved by pollinators and will bring bees, butterflies and hoverflies into the garden. Expert-Chosen Varieties Before we share our 17 favourites, dahlia experts Jack Gott (JRG Dahlias), Elaine Patullo (Dachshund Dahlia Plant Nursery), and David Hall (Halls of Heddon) introduce a few of their favourite dahlia varieties. ‘Collarette’ ‘Hartenaas’ “Collarettes are my favourites to grow for pollinators,” says Elaine. Jack agrees, putting his love for these dahlias down to their ability to attract the bees and butterflies. Water Lily ‘Pam Howden’ Another favourite from JRG Dahlias, Jack has won medals for his displays at the National Dahlia Society shows and other championships with his water lily dahlias. ‘Dinner Plate’ ‘Dinner Plate’ Elaine loves the dinner plate varieties because of their show-stopping flowers and size. ‘Hadrian’s’ ‘Hadrian’s Delight’ “Any of the open-centred Hadrian’s varieties, such as H. Midnight, H. Bubblegum, H. Sunset, are a favourite of mine,” says David, from Halls of Heddon. “This range of single varieties are home raised and are very free flowering, making them ideal for pots or the herbaceous border. “Most have striking dark, almost black foliage which is an additional beneficial feature.” ‘Normandie’ ‘Normandie Memories’ “I also enjoy growing and showing the fimbriated dahlias, such as ‘Normandie Frills’ and ‘Normandie Wedding Day’,” David shares. “These have flowers up to 8 inches across when grown well, and the finely cut petal tips of these ‘spiky’ cactus dahlias gives them a very lacy appearance. “They are becoming very popular and, as a national judge, it is good to see more of these appearing on the show bench, though their use and attractiveness has a far broader appeal.” ‘Doris Day’ ‘Doris Day’ “‘Doris Day’ is one of my favourites and one I remember from youth,” says David. “It’s a very free and early-flowering dahlia, with red, small, cactus blooms growing to about 4 inches, making it a good variety for garden or pots.” One collection I would recommend looking at is the Maggiore collection, as the exotic blooms burst into layers of petals reminiscent of firework displays and are my go-to for brightening up a tired summer border or collection of containers,” shares Master Horticulturist Dan Ori. “They typically have a height of 60cm and spread 30cm, making the stems a useful length for small vases or bouquets. “The Maggiore collection are normally treated as annuals and sold as potted plants in early summer, but if you can protect them from frost in something like a greenhouse for the first autumn & winter, they should start to develop small tubers that could be lifted or protected in the second autumn. “If I had to choose one from the collection it would be Dahlia ‘LaBella Maggiore Purple’, although it is not particularly purple and is more of a rich red with a purple tint that really pops.” Hopefully, these choices have prepared you for the larger list I have cultivated for you below. Here are 17 popular types of dahlias chosen by our editors which can be grown in the UK, including some very special RHS AGM recipients. All of these varieties need full sun in a sheltered spot and are relatively unfussy regarding their soil requirements: 1) D. ‘Waltzing Mathilda’ COMMON NAME(S): Dahlia ‘Waltzing Mathilda’ HARDINESS RATING: H3 FLOWERS: Orange and pink FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer / Autumn SIZE: 0.1-0.5m in height, 0.1-0.5m spread D. ‘Waltzing Mathilda’ is a stunning semi-double dahlia that the bees will swarm over with delight. With light pink and orange flowers and purple-green foliage, it is most at home in a bed or a border. Growing up to 70cm in height and spread, this variety will produce an abundance of blooms from July until the first frosts if deadheaded regularly throughout the growing season. 2) D. ‘Café au Lait’ COMMON NAME(S): Dahlia ‘Café au Lait’ HARDINESS RATING: H3 FLOWERS: Orange and cream FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer / Autumn SIZE: 1-1.5m in height, 0.5-1m spread One of the most widely grown, to the point that some say it’s overused. However, it is loved for a reason. D. ‘Café au Lait’ produces the most beautiful pink–cream blush flowers up to 20cm in diameter on tall stems above bright green foliage. Wonderful as a cut flower with a long vase life, it can grow up to 1.5m tall, so is perfect for the middle or the back of a border. As a relatively tall dahlia, it will need a sheltered spot and staking for support. 3) D. ‘Totally Tangerine’ COMMON NAME(S): Dahlia ‘Totally Tangerine’ HARDINESS RATING: H3 FLOWERS: Orange and pink FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer / Autumn SIZE: 0.5-1m in height, 0.5-1m spread If space is an issue ‘Totally Tangerine’ grows well in a large pot or container with an eventual size of up to 1m high. An anemone-type dahlia, it is great for pollinators and produces a succession of delicate pink and orange blooms. It works great when used as a cut flower or to bring some colour to a courtyard or patio, flowering from July through to October. 4) D. ‘Cornel Brons’ COMMON NAME(S): Dahlia ‘Cornel Brons’ HARDINESS RATING: H3 FLOWERS: Bronze, orange and pink FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer / Autumn SIZE: 0.5-1m in height, 0.5-1m spread For a burst of colour in a more subtle way, ‘Cornel Brons’ is a stunning variety to grow. A ball-type dahlia, it displays perfectly arranged dusky apricot-coloured petals that will provide an elegant impact in any garden or vase. Growing to a hight of 1.2m with a 70cm wide spread, it is best suited to a bed or a border and prefers a sunny and sheltered spot as with most other dahlias. 5) D. ‘Bishop of Canterbury’ COMMON NAME(S): Dahlia ‘Bishop of Canterbury’ HARDINESS RATING: H3 FLOWERS: Red FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer / Autumn SIZE: 0.5-1m in height, 0.1-0.5m spread One of the Bishops series with dark foliage and prolific single flowers that are loved by pollinators, ‘Bishop of Canterbury’ produces sumptuous magenta-red flowers which contrast effectively against its dark purple leaves. Growing up to 1m in height, it grows well in either a container or a border and will require support. 6) D. ‘Arabian Night’ COMMON NAME(S): Dahlia ‘Arabian Night’ HARDINESS RATING: H3 FLOWERS: Red FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer / Autumn SIZE: 0.5-1m in height, 0.5-1m spread With its deep and dark red flowers, ‘Arabian Night’ can appear almost black in certain conditions and add another dimension to a garden. A decorative–type, it displays large and sumptuous double flowers up to 10cm in diameter which contrast against its green foliage. As a tall dahlia, it will look great when grown in a border or a container, but it will need staking. 7) D. ‘Gallery Rembrandt’ COMMON NAME(S): Dahlia ‘Gallery Rembrandt’ HARDINESS RATING: H3 FLOWERS: Pink FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer / Autumn SIZE: 0.5-1m in height, 0.1-0.5m spread Another compact dahlia perfect for growing in containers or pots, or for the front of a border, is ‘Gallery Rembrandt’. Although small, it still produces a long-lasting burst of colour with its large double flower heads up to 9cm in diameter in shades of cream and bright pink. It is less hardy than other dahlias and so requires some protection over winter, growing best in a south-facing and sheltered spot. 8) D. ‘David Howard’ COMMON NAME(S): Dahlia ‘David Howard’ HARDINESS RATING: H3 FLOWERS: Orange and bronze FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer / Autumn SIZE: 0.5-1m in height, 0.1-0.5m spread For a real burst of colour to add to the garden ‘David Howard’ is hard to beat. A decorative variety that displays perfect flower heads in gold and amber which contrast beautifully against its dark foliage. “A few varieties have very dark, almost black leaves which add contrast to a mixed border,” says June Nash from the National Dahlia Society. “David Howard is one of my favourites of these dahlias.” Growing to around 70cm in height and spread, it is one for the borders or a container and benefits from staking early on in the growing season. 9) D. ‘Honka Rose’ COMMON NAME(S): Dahlia ‘Honka Rose’ HARDINESS RATING: H3 FLOWERS: Pink, white and yellow FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer / Autumn SIZE: 0.5-1m in height, 0.1-0.5m spread This pollinator-friendly dahlia is slightly unusual with its striking star-shaped flowers and vibrant pink petals which curl inwards. It is prized as a cut flower given its long vase life and will need staking as it can grow to an eventual 1m tall. As with all dahlias, with regular deadheading, this variety will provide regular blooms from mid-summer until the start of winter. June Nash recommends ‘Honka Fragile’ if you are looking for something more subtle that is similar to this flower: “‘Honka Fragile’ is a delicate dahlia that is white, edged with pink.” 10) D. ‘Purple Gem’ COMMON NAME(S): Dahlia ‘Purple Grem’ HARDINESS RATING: H3 FLOWERS: Purple FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer / Autumn SIZE: 0.5-1m in height, 0.5-1m spread This cactus–type dahlia with its spiky narrow petals in hues of bright pink and purple will fit in with a number of colour schemes. A favourite amongst cut flower gardeners, it looks spectacular in a vase. It is a tall variety reaching heights of up to 1.2m, so will require staking for additional support. 11) D. ‘Black Jack’ COMMON NAME(S): Dahlia ‘Black Jack’ HARDINESS RATING: H3 FLOWERS: Red and black FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer / Autumn SIZE: 1-1.5m in height, 0.5-1m spread A well-known decorative dahlia introduced almost 20 years ago, ‘Black Jack’ truly is a show stopper. With its deep dark red flower heads up to 25cm across that can appear almost black, this dahlia really adds impact to a border. One of the tallest dahlias, ‘Black Jack’ can grow to 1.5m tall, so it is definitely best suited for the back of a bed and will need staking to be kept out of the prevailing winds. 12) D. ‘Boom Boom White’ COMMON NAME(S): Dahlia ‘Boom Boom White’ HARDINESS RATING: H3 FLOWERS: White FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer SIZE: 1-1.5m in height, 0.5-1m spread Dahlias don’t just come in bright and vivid colours, as cool and classic whites are also available. ‘Boom Boom White’ is a ball-type dahlia with white petals and a hint of lemon that will bring an elegant touch to any bed or border. Its flower heads can reach an impressive 15cm in diameter which seem to gently float on its slender habit and green foliage. This dahlia does equally well when grown in either a container or directly in the ground. 13) D. ‘Bishop Of York’ COMMON NAME(S): Dahlia ‘Bishop Of York’ HARDINESS RATING: H3 FLOWERS: Orange and yellow FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer / Autumn SIZE: 0.5-1m in height, 0.5-1m spread Unlike most other colours, there are not many yellow dahlias to choose from. However, if you are searching for a yellow dahlia, ‘Bishop of York’ is a great variety to try. With its bright yellow petals and an orange centre it certainly provides a burst of cheerful colour. As a single variety, it will attract pollinators into the garden and will provide a valuable late source of nectar as it flowers well into the autumn. 14) D. ‘Labyrinth’ COMMON NAME(S): Dahlia ‘Labyrinth’ HARDINESS RATING: H3 FLOWERS: Orange and pink FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer / Autumn SIZE: 1-1.5m in height, 0.5-1m spread Another of the varieties with huge flower heads is ‘Labyrinth’. With its flamboyant 20cm diameter pink and orange blooms, it is no wonder it is a florist’s favourite. Growing on bright green foliage, ‘Labyrinth’ stands out when planted in front of shrubs with dark foliage and can grow to 1m in height. As it’s a relatively tall dahlia, it will need staking and regular deadheading to keep it looking its best. 15) D. ‘Thomas A. Edison’ COMMON NAME(S): Dahlia ‘Thomas A. Edison’ HARDINESS RATING: H3 FLOWERS: Purple and pink FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer / Autumn SIZE: 0.5-1m in height, 0.1-0.5m spread A long-standing favourite has to be ‘Thomas A. Edison’. First introduced in the U.S. in 1929, it has since been grown worldwide for years and for good reason. Producing deep magenta flowers which fade slightly towards the outer edges and up to 20cm across, it looks stunning wherever it is planted. A decorative variety, it goes well with many different colour schemes, is often grown as a cut flower and will need staking due to its eventual height. 16) D. ’Linda’s Baby’ COMMON NAME(S): Dahlia ‘Linda’s Baby’ HARDINESS RATING: H3 FLOWERS: Pink FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer / Autumn SIZE: 0.5-1m in height, 0.5-1m spread For the softest pink with a touch of peach, look no further than ‘Linda’s Baby’. It’s a pompom variety that displays exquisite small round flowers with layers of perfect petals. With regular deadheading, this dahlia will bloom from summer until the first frosts and provide impact either in a border, container or vase. 17) D. ‘Alfred Grille’ COMMON NAME(S): Dahlia ‘Alfred Grille’ HARDINESS RATING: H3 FLOWERS: Pink and yellow FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer / Autumn SIZE: 0.5-1m in height, 0.5-1m spread For an unusual dahlia that is certain to become a talking point, ‘Alfred Grille’ looks almost otherworldly. A semi-cactus variety, it produces slightly spiky pink, orange and yellow petals that curl forwards. These ornate flowers will provide a burst of colour where needed and contrast well against a green backdrop of foliage. As with other cultivars, this dahlia prefers full sun and will need staking with a final plant size of up to 1m. References 1. Research on dahlia, the national flower of Mexico. (n.d.). International Society for Horticultural Science. Retrieved March 14, 2023, from https://www.ishs.org/ishs-article/1288_15
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Only Pick Hydrangeas For Drying If They Are Firm To The Touch, Shares Judith Blacklock
IN THIS GUIDE When To Cut Hydrangeas For Drying Equipment & Tools Preparing The Flowers Water Drying Air Drying Other Drying Methods References Dry hydrangeas and you can keep the dried blooms inside your home to bring some colour and interest over the winter months or even for up to a year or so. Hydrangeas can have a range of different blooms and these are excellent for home displays, both when fresh and when dried. They are one of the easiest flowers to dry and keep indoors and the process will only take around two weeks. “Drying flowers is a fantastic way to keep displaying flowers from the garden into the winter,” shares Colin Skelly, a Master Horticulturist. “Hydrangeas can keep flowering well into autumn, so drying is a great way to bring the outside in as flowers seasonally fade.” Once you have dried them you can keep them for a year or so, perhaps even longer! The most challenging thing about learning how to dry hydrangea is finding the perfect moment to cut the blooms. Cut too early and the flowers are more moisture-filled and will not always dry as effectively, but cut too late and the petals can turn brown. Moisture-filled hydrangeas can sometimes still be dried effectively but may alter in colour and appearance quite considerably as they dry. When To Cut Hydrangeas For Drying When exactly you cut hydrangeas for drying will depend on which specific variety you are growing. There are a wide range of different hydrangeas and these will not all mature at precisely the same time. “You only pick hydrangeas for drying or for lasting well in arrangements if they are firm to the touch,” shares award-winning Floral Deisgner Judith Blacklock. “So, if you put your hand on it firmly and it almost bounces, you know that it will survive. If it’s soft, it will not survive. “The darker the colour of hydrangea, the more mature it is and the longer it will last.” Typically, however, hydrangeas are cut to dry towards the end of their blooming season, which is usually some time in August, September or October. “If you pick hydrangeas any earlier than August, they will not last, so you need to pick them when they are mature on the stem,” adds Judith. Ideally, it is best to wait until a few of the petals have begun to transition to a softer colour and are developing a more papery texture, but it is best to cut before too many of the petals start to brown. A few brown spots can easily be removed as you bring them into your home, but, of course, you will not wish to spoil the appearance of the blooms by removing too much material. Equipment & Tools You do not need a lot of equipment or many tools to cut and dry hydrangea blooms. As long as you have access to some hydrangeas, all you need is some secateurs or pruning shears to cut the blooms, and a vase with water if you choose to use the water drying method. The water drying method is certainly the recommended option since this gentler drying method will mean that it is more likely that your hydrangeas will keep their attractive colour and form, have stronger stems and still look their best after the process is complete. Preparing The Flowers The hydrangea flowers which you wish to dry are best cut from the plant early in the morning just after the dew has dried off. Cut the stems at an angle, making sure that you retain enough of the stem to be able to place them in a vase you have chosen. Strip all the leaves off the stems and check over the blooms carefully to make sure there are no insects. Remove any small brown patches or petals. Drying will emphasise any imperfections in the petals, so it is a good idea to be selective and to pick only the best and most visually appealing blooms to dry. Water Drying If you have chosen the water drying method, the next step is simply to place the hydrangea blooms in a vase of water, just as you would when displaying fresh blooms. Around 5-7cm of the base of the stems should be submerged. Only place a few blooms in the vase, as overcrowding can affect the drying process and each bloom will require good air circulation to dry and some space to retain their open shape. Next, simply leave the vase alone. Allow the water within it to naturally evaporate and be used up by the blooms over time. After a couple of weeks or so, the vase will likely be empty, and the flowers will have dried. It may take a little longer, depending on the humidity levels and temperatures in your home. You’ll be able to tell that the flowers have dried when the petals feel papery and stiff and when the stems snap easily. Air Drying Another method for drying hydrangeas involves simply cutting the blooms and letting them air dry. This involves arranging the blooms in a vase without water or hanging them upside down to air dry. Air drying can work, but often the colours will not be retained as well as they are when the blooms are given water and then gradually dried out. Other Drying Methods Some gardeners who do not live in rainy areas may be able to leave the hydrangeas to dry more fully on the plant before they bring them indoors. However, in the UK, flowers will usually turn very brown when dried on the plant, and so their beautiful vintage hues will not be retained. The downside to all the drying methods mentioned above is that most hydrangeas will not retain the deep and vivid hues that they had when they were at their peak on the plant. Usually, hydrangeas will lose at least some of their colour and vibrancy when dried. However, the more subtle and muted tones of dried hydrangea can sometimes be even more beautiful than the vivid hues of summer and it can be interesting to see how the colours change depending on the variety and exactly when you cut them. For example, some fuchsia pink hydrangea in my garden turns into a beautiful mauve-lavender hue when dried. If you want the colours and beauty of the petals but are not bothered about retaining the three-dimensional shape, you can also press hydrangea flowers in a press, or between books, to use in crafts. If you do want more vivid hues, then there is one more drying method to consider. You can suspend hydrangea blooms upside down in a container of silica gel for 3-4 days or so to retain their bright summer colour. However, this can cause brittle flowers and is not an eco-friendly method.1 It is also more expensive, so it is not typically something we would recommend. References 1. The Environmental Impact of Silica Gel, Calcium Chloride and Bentonite Clay Desiccants. (n.d.). Micro-Pak. Retrieved March 20, 2023, from https://www.micropakltd.com/assets/images/Resources/RC005-EN-Environmental-Impact-of-Silica-Gel-CC-and-BCD.pdf
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'Light My Fire' - Discover These Award-Winning Hydrangea Varieties
IN THIS GUIDE 1) H. Miss Saori 2) H. macrophylla ‘Hobergine’ 3) H. macrophylla Early Blue/Early Pink 4) H. macrophylla ‘Garden Romance’ 5) H. macrophylla ‘Hot Red’ 6) H. macrophylla ‘Red Baron’ 7) H. macrophylla Glam Rock 8) H. ‘French Bolero’ 9) H. macrophylla ‘Bavaria’ 10) H. macrophylla ‘Shining Angel’ 11) H. macrophylla ‘Light My Fire’ 12) H. macrophylla ‘Black Steel Zaza’ References “The first five letters of the plant’s name tell you most of what you need to know about these plants – hydra,” says Peter Lickorish, a Master Horticulturist. “They need water – and lots of it! If your soil is a little on the dry or sunny side, I would not recommend one of the Hydrangea macrophylla varieties to avoid disappointment. “Instead, I would strongly recommend Hydrangea paniculata cultivars. These have, in my experience, a much better capacity for surviving drier spells. “Plus, if they get out of hand, they can be pruned harder than most of the H. macrophylla types. “H. paniculata ‘Vanille Fraise’ has to be one of my favourites. Its frothy flowers are elongated, turning from pastel pink near the stem to a white pointed tip.” Underneath we introduce twelve outstanding hydrangea cultivars. We present a mix of both established classics and up-and-comers and also strike a balance between the ‘natural’ blues and ‘natural’ pink-reds. All of these plants are hardy between H4-H5. 1) H. Miss Saori NAME: Hydrangea HARDINESS RATING: H5 FLOWERS: Pink FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer / Autumn SOIL PREFERENCE: Clay, loam, sand; any pH SIZE: 0.5-1m height, 0.5-1m spread ‘Miss Saori’ has to open this list because it is a Chelsea Flower Show winner, taking top honours in 2014.1 It is a mophead sub-type. Atypically, it bears flowers on both old wood and greenwood stems. The flowers are double form and are just pinkish-white with each sepal picotee-edged with rich pink, not infrequently with attractive flushing and ‘bleeding.’ It flowers from mid-summer to mid-autumn. It even provides foliage interest as the leaves display burgundy-red colouration in spring and autumn. 2) H. macrophylla ‘Hobergine’ NAME: Hydrangea ‘Hobergine’ HARDINESS RATING: H5 FLOWERS: Pink, purple and red FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer / Autumn SOIL PREFERENCE: Clay, loam, sand; any pH SIZE: 1-1.5m height, 1-1.5m spread ‘Hobergine’, even by hydrangea standards, is a wonderfully hue-changing cultivar. Its flower-heads, though smaller than average, are brilliantly-coloured. Though their default tone is a pinkish purple, they will readily shift to lilac or pink with comparatively minor changes to soil pH. Also, the hue will be richer and darker the more sun the plant gets, and will be more pastel and subdued the less the sun. It bears flowers during summer into autumn and grows to nearly 1.2m. 3) H. macrophylla Early Blue/Early Pink NAME: Hydrangea HARDINESS RATING: H5 FLOWERS: Pink, blue, purple, green and cream FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer-Autumn SOIL PREFERENCE: Clay, loam, sand; any pH SIZE: 1-1.5m height, 1-1.5m spread ‘Early Blue/Early Pink’ is another cultivar whose floral colours strike that balance between red-pink and blue. The lush flower-heads open to a lilac blue but quite soon sport a light but rich purple colour. This variety’s flowers are especially quick to respond to changes in soil pH. This variety produces flowers from relatively early in the summer nearly all through the season. It attains a height of about 1.2m. 4) H. macrophylla ‘Garden Romance’ NAME: Hydrangea ‘GARDEN ROMANCE’ HARDINESS RATING: H5 FLOWERS: Pink and purple FLOWERING SEASON(S): Spring / Summer / Autumn SOIL PREFERENCE: Clay, loam; any pH SIZE: 1-1.5m height, 1-1.5m spread ‘Garden Romance’ is aptly named, for this lacecap’s flower-heads are not as full as many others, but are more delicate and refined. More pertinently, the flowers are a tender sweetheart pink hue with whitish centres of variable size. Its long flowering season extends from May to October and it attains a height and spread of up to 1m. 5) H. macrophylla ‘Hot Red’ NAME: Hydrangea HARDINESS RATING: H5 FLOWERS: Purple and red FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer SOIL PREFERENCE: Clay, loam, sand; any pH SIZE: 1-1.5m height, 1-1.5m spread ‘Hot Red’ is probably a bit of a misnomer because this variety’s intensely-hued flowers are more like a hot purple-magenta with lighter centres. It has relatively large, lush flower-heads which start flowering in mid-summer and continues until mid-autumn. It attains heights of just over 1m. 6) H. macrophylla ‘Red Baron’ NAME: Hydrangea ‘Schöne Bautznerin’ HARDINESS RATING: H5 FLOWERS: Pink and purple FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer SOIL PREFERENCE: Clay, loam; any pH SIZE: 1-1.5m height, 1-1.5m spread ‘Red Baron’ produces large flower-heads that are unusually full and rounded. They are of a lustrous rose red hue that can turn to purplish and bloom during summer. It reaches a height of just over 1m. 7) H. macrophylla Glam Rock NAME: Hydrangea HARDINESS RATING: H5 FLOWERS: Pink, green, purple and blue FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer SOIL PREFERENCE: Clay, loam, chalk; any pH SIZE: 1-1.5m height, 1-1.5m spread ‘Glam Rock’ is a variety that produces marvellously multi-coloured flower-heads. The flowers are red-pink to pink-red with the sepals variably exposing their natural green colour in small touches and bigger splashes from the tips. The flower-heads have a blue eye courtesy of the true flower. It blooms from mid-summer to mid-autumn and reaches a height of about 1.2m. 8) H. ‘French Bolero’ NAME: Hydrangea ‘French Bolero’ HARDINESS RATING: H4 FLOWERS: Pink and white FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer / Autumn SOIL PREFERENCE: Clay, loam, sand; acidic / neutral pH SIZE: 0.5-1m height, 0.5-1m spread ‘French Bolero’ is a very floriferous variety. The large flowers are pitched to purplish-pink of the gentlest, softest shade with individual flower-heads hovering towards either pinkish or bluish. It is quick to shift colour to pink or lilac albeit of the most delicate shade. It blooms through summer to early autumn and reaches a height and spread of about 1m. It has a habit of spreading further than its height, giving it an unusual form. 9) H. macrophylla ‘Bavaria’ NAME: Hydrangea ‘Bavaria’ HARDINESS RATING: H4 FLOWERS: Pink, blue and white FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer SOIL PREFERENCE: Clay, loam; any pH SIZE: 1-1.5m height, 1-1.5m spread ‘Bavaria’ is a mophead sub-type and the flowers are a remarkable hue of near-indigo. The colour fades near the edges which have a broad white border, providing an extraordinary contrast. This variety blooms during summer into early autumn. It has a height and spread of up to 1.2m. 10) H. macrophylla ‘Shining Angel’ NAME: Hydrangea ‘Shining Angel’ HARDINESS RATING: H5 FLOWERS: Pink, blue and purple FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer / Autumn SOIL PREFERENCE: Clay, loam, sand; acidic / neutral pH SIZE: 1-1.5m height, 1-1.5m spread ‘Shining Angel’ (Black Diamonds series) needs no acid-alkaline changes as it produces multi-hued flowers on its own steam. It bears flowers in different shades ranging from soft blue-violet through purple to red-magenta. This fantastic variety also boasts a long flowering season, covering summer and most of autumn. 11) H. macrophylla ‘Light My Fire’ NAME: Hydrangea ‘Light My Fire’ HARDINESS RATING: H5 FLOWERS: Orange, red and yellow FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer SOIL PREFERENCE: Clay, loam, sand; any pH SIZE: 1-1.5m height, 1-1.5m spread ‘Light My Fire’ is a mophead sub-type with more open, flatter flowers than most, and which are borne in very full flower-heads. The brilliant bi-coloured flowers are an orange-red and sunny yellow near and at the centres, displaying attractive veining and fading where the colours meet. It blooms for most of the summer and into early autumn and reaches up to 1.2m in height and spread. 12) H. macrophylla ‘Black Steel Zaza’ NAME: Hydrangea ‘Black Steel Zaza’ HARDINESS RATING: H4 FLOWERS: Pink, purple and blue FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer SOIL PREFERENCE: Clay, loam; any pH SIZE: 0.5-1m height, 0.5-1m spread ‘Black Steel Zaza’ (Black Steel Series) is marked, like other cultivars of this series, by its ebony-black stems. Young flowers of this series are lime green and develop colour as they mature. Zaza’s flowers range from lilac-blue to purple in a medium shade. It flowers throughout summer up to early autumn and grows to about 1m. References 1. Hydrangea macrophylla MISS SAORI (‘H2002’). (n.d.). Royal Horticultural Society. Retrieved March 20, 2023, from https://www.rhs.org.uk/shows-events/virtual-chelsea/plant-of-the-decade/2020/hydrangea-miss-saori
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How To Plant And Grow Hydrangeas - A Sheltered Spot And Regular Watering Is A Must
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Garden Hydrangeas Planting Guidelines Where To Plant Repotting / Transplanting Plant Care & Growing Tips Soil Requirements Watering Feeding References Hydrangeas are those pretty chameleons of the plant kingdom that red-shift or blue-shift their flowers’ hues depending on the soil pH. These long-lived perennials are mostly deciduous and bear richly-coloured flower-heads over long blooming seasons. They occur in sedate as well as arresting tones of colours ranging from reddish pink to blue, often with rather differently coloured flowers on the same branch. “I love Hydrangeas because they are so useful in floral design work, particularly in big installations,” shares Floral Designer Judith Blacklock. Overview Botanical Name Hydrangea Common Name(s) Hydrangea Plant Type Shrub Native Area Asia and Central / South America Hardiness Rating H5 (evergreen species H4) Foliage Deciduous or evergreen Flowers Corymb clusters of flowers with 4-5 petals When To Plant October, November When To Prune March, April, November Hydrangea is a flowering plant that is represented by an immense number of varieties that reliably produce lush corymbs of dainty flowers in many gorgeous shades, from soft cream to vivid purple. They bloom during summer and autumn. The hydrangea genus numbers roughly 80 species plus several hundred cultivars.1 A majority of the flowering garden plants commonly referred to as ‘Hydrangeas’ descend from H. macrophylla, while H. paniculata, H. aborescens and H. serrata are three other species that are parents to popular garden plants. Garden hydrangeas should not be confused with climbing hydrangeas which are, you guessed it, climbers. Several varieties derived from H. paniculata grow to be small trees, while a few others stemming from species like H. quercifolia make great bushes and hedges. H. paniculata In this article we focus on hydrangea, the deciduous bushy shrub that typically attains heights of 50-150cm. “A key point to bear in mind with Hydrangeas is they require plenty of moisture to grow well, as stated by the plant’s name, which comes from the Greek word Hydra, meaning water,” explains Gardener and Master Horticulturist Roy Nicol. “Therefore, in warm weather, regular watering is a must or you can install an irrigation system.” Garden Hydrangeas What one might call ‘Garden Hydrangeas’ are classified into several groups. The popular and most commonly-grown ones in the United Kingdom are Hortensia Hydrangeas. They derive from H. macrophylla and are further sub-divided into mophead and lacecap types. In the United States, Oakleaf Hydrangeas, which derive from H. quercifolia are among the most popular. Panicle Hydrangeas Panicle Hydrangeas, which descend from H. paniculata, are also grown on both sides of the pond. Hydrangeas enjoy a well-deserved reputation as the chameleons of the plant kingdom. The chameleonic ones descend from H. macrophylla and the colours of their flowers shift between red-pink for soils with alkaline pH to blue for soils with acidic pH. They go purple for pH levels in between, with the bloom colour able to be influenced by you, the gardener. In nature, the parent species’ flowers occur in colours within this same range. The flowers occur in dense, usually rounded, corymbs or flower-heads. The ‘flowers’ are composed of four sepals in the softest lilacs through to the most vibrant reds, and they include bicoloured blooms as well. H. macrophylla varieties, or Hortensia Hydrangeas, have especially attractive foliage. The leaves are of brilliant, rich green shades and are beautifully ‘cut’ as they display quite a decorative serrated margin and a fine oval to elliptical shape. Add to all these attributes hydrangeas’ low maintenance needs, their floriferousness, and their long flowering season, and it is easy to see why these plants have never experienced a dip in popularity. Planting Guidelines Hydrangeas are commonly bought in the form of potted plants. You can leave them in the container they came in, transplant them, or re-pot them. Where To Plant The ideal location for these plants will bring them sun in the morning and shade or filtered sunlight in the afternoon. Hydrangeas are generally best sited in a sheltered spot; specifically, they should be sheltered from the North wind. A layer of mulch will keep the soil temperature stable and thereby protect the roots from the ill effects of both high and low temperatures to which Hydrangeas are quite sensitive. Repotting / Transplanting The best season to transplant or re-pot is a month or two after the flowering season is over, which would be sometime in autumn. The best time to do it is in the morning. Potted plants should be potted on about every three years as a general rule, or when the roots become visible through or in the drainage hole at the bottom. The plant should be re-potted to the next-bigger size pot. To transplant, prepare a hole in the soil about as deep as the container that the plant is in and nearly twice as wide. After removing the plant with the soil from the pot, ensure that the roots are not root-bound. If they are, gently spread them out but this should be done quickly as hydrangeas should be re-potted or transplanted quickly and efficiently. Spread the roots and backfill the hole, taking care that the soil line is the same as it was in the container and not lower. Give the transplanted (or re-potted) plant a deep watering. Plant Care & Growing Tips Soil Requirements The best soil for Hydrangeas is a rich loam composed of sand, chalk and clay amended with organic compost. The soil should drain well but retain moisture, which may be accomplished by adding vermiculite to the soil. Hydrangeas will do well in widely varying soil pH; however, a slightly acidic to neutral soil pH is considered ideal.2 In this range a given variety’s flowers’ hues will stay true to type and not veer toward either red-pink or blue. Varieties that bear purplish flowers and multi-hued flowers will also perform very well. Watering These plants need deep and thorough waterings during the growing season. About twice a week is sufficient. The soil should stay just moist, especially in summer. When the top centimetre of soil feels dry, it is time to water again. Feeding Hydrangeas may be fertilised once a year. Do so in spring just when the plant has started to put out leaves. Use a conventional balanced fertiliser or alternatively, simply apply organic compost or (a lighter application of) organic manure. Where feeding Hydrangeas is concerned, the saying ‘less is more’ ought to be kept in mind. References 1. The BRAHMS Project, University of Oxford, Department of Plant Sciences. (n.d.-f). Hydrangea species. Oxford University Plants. Retrieved March 20, 2023, from https://herbaria.plants.ox.ac.uk/bol/plants400/Profiles/GH/Hydrangea 2. Williams, T. (2012, September 20). Hydrangea blooms turn colors based on soil pH levels. CAES Newswire. Retrieved March 20, 2023, from https://newswire.caes.uga.edu/story/4542/blue-pink-or-lavender.html
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These 8 Named Berberis Varieties And Cultivars Are Highly Valued By Horticulturists
IN THIS GUIDE 1) Berberis vulgaris 2) B. darwinii 3) B. thunbergii 4) B. aristata 5) B. buxifolia 6) B. darwinii ‘Compacta’ 7) B. x lologensis ‘Apricot Queen’ 8) B. thunbergii f. atropurpurea References Berberis, also known as ‘Barberry’, is an easy-to-grow shrub that is native to many countries across the world. Here in the UK, there are a number of named varieties and cultivars that are grown extensively due to their ability to grow with ease in our mild climate. “Berberis species and cultivars make versatile garden plants, from compact forms for smaller gardens through to large shrubs, all offering both early flowers and autumn berries,” says Colin Skelly, Horticultural Consultant. “Some even display stunning autumn colours and can also be left unpruned or clipped, making them suitable for a range of garden styles. “My personal favourite is Berberis darwinii for its vibrant orange spring flowers and edible blue berries in autumn.” Here are some favourites you may find interesting to grow: 1) Berberis vulgaris Berberis vulgaris is known as the common barberry. It grows wild through much of Europe and is naturalised here in the UK and northern Europe. It is cultivated for its fruits in a number of countries. Traditionally, the berries have been used in jam making and in Iran, are commonly used as currants in rice pilaf.1 2) B. darwinii B. darwinii is one of the two main parents for cultivars in the UK and a very popular garden and hedging shrub here. It is native to southern Chile and Argentina and naturalised in many other places.2 Growing to an eventual height of 3-4m (or even taller) it is a thorny evergreen which bears stunning orange flowers in spring which are followed in summer by purple-black (edible though rather acidic) berries. This plant takes its name, of course, from Charles Darwin, who discovered it in 1835 during the voyage of The Beagle.3 3) B. thunbergii B. thunbergii is the other main parent for many UK Berberis cultivars. It is also known as Japanese barberry, Thunberg’s barberry or red barberry. Native to Japan and east Asia, it is widely naturalised elsewhere and is common in UK gardens.4 It is a smaller shrub that typically grows to 1m tall and around 2.5m wide. Its leaves typically turn a glorious red in autumn, and it also bears its red fruits at this time of year. Pale yellow flowers appear in the spring – unlike other Berberis, this one bears its flowers in umbels, not racemes. 4) B. aristata B. aristata is another evergreen shrub, hardy to UK zone 6 and not frost tender. It is also known as Indian barberry or Chitra and is native to the Himalayas. It flowers in around May and also produces edible berries which are commonly dried and used like raisins in India. 5) B. buxifolia B. buxifolia is also known as Magellan barberry. It is native to South America but has occasionally naturalised in Britain.5 It is hardy to UK zone 5 and is not frost tender. Again, it has edible fruits, and some say that these are the best flavoured of the South American barberries. Green unripe fruits can also be used like gooseberries in pies etc. There are plenty of other barberries – but the above are all interesting options to consider – both for aesthetic reasons and because these are the varieties with the most edible berries. For both visual appeal and edible berries, B. darwinii is highly recommended. For the greatest year-round visual interest, B. thunbergii would be our top pick – though the berries on this are technically edible, however, they do not taste very good. Top cultivars to consider include: 6) B. darwinii ‘Compacta’ A more compact cultivar with beautiful flowers and edible berries. 7) B. x lologensis ‘Apricot Queen’ A hybrid of B. darwinii with stunning flowers. 8) B. thunbergii f. atropurpurea Incredibly easy to grow, with beautiful foliage. References 1. Focus On Culture: Barberries. (2015, October 11). Polyglottando. Retrieved March 13, 2023, from https://www.polyglottando.com/?cat=30 2. Berberis darwinii. (n.d.). Kew Royal Botanic Gardens. Retrieved March 13, 2023, from https://powo.science.kew.org/taxon/urn:lsid:ipni.org:names:273235-2 3. Berberis darwinii. (n.d.-b). Oregon State University. Retrieved March 13, 2023, from https://landscapeplants.oregonstate.edu/plants/berberis-darwinii 4. Berberis thunbergii. (n.d.). Kew Royal Botanic Gardens. Retrieved March 13, 2023, from https://powo.science.kew.org/taxon/urn:lsid:ipni.org:names:107136-1 5. Berberis buxifolia – Magellan Barberry. (n.d.). PFAF Plant Database. Retrieved March 13, 2023, from https://pfaf.org/user/plant.aspx?LatinName=Berberis+buxifolia
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Harriet Thompson Shares Her Secret To Bottom Watering For Potted Plants
IN THIS GUIDE What Is Bottom Watering? Why Bottom Watering Is A Good Idea Tips For Bottom Watering Is It Always The Right Option? References Bottom watering is a good idea for many potted plants, but if you are unsure about what this means and what it entails, this simple guide should help. Watering is one area where those new to growing potted plants often get things wrong; some experienced gardeners may even over or under water. Bottom watering is one way to avoid over or under-watering. “When watering houseplants in my home, I find bottom watering to be the most successful,” says Harriet Thompson, owner of Harriet’s Plants, an environmentally friendly houseplant nursery based in Lichfield, UK. “It is a great technique, especially if you are a beginner.” It can often help you make sure that your plants get exactly the amount of water they require – no more or no less. What Is Bottom Watering? Bottom watering involves providing water from below, rather than pouring water from above. To provide water from below, you simply place your potted plant in water and let it sit there and soak up the water it needs. The water will be drawn up through the holes in the base of the pot, drawn upwards through the soil by capillary action, and taken up by plant roots.1 The water will wick upwards through the growing medium, eventually reaching just below the surface. The idea is to check with a finger to see whether the soil just below the surface is wet. Once it is, you can simply remove the pot from the water-filled container and place it back into its regular position on a catchment tray or saucer. “Get a watering system, because the easiest way for your flowers to thrive and flourish is if they get regular watering and feeding, otherwise you become a slave to the weather,” says Simon Lycett, an award-winning Florist. “You can fit it yourself and they are not expensive! If you can’t do this, bottom watering is great.” Why Bottom Watering Is A Good Idea When you water from above, it is very easy to find that you overwater or underwater. You may find that water does not fully moisten the growing medium and that there are still dry areas within your pot. It might also be the case that too much water is added and certain areas become waterlogged and compacted, which can cause problems like root rot. “Monitoring water within houseplants is key, so I encourage bottom watering during the growing months to get the most out of your indoor plants,” says Harriet. Another issue that can arise when watering from above is that water can splash on the leaves. Water on the leaves of certain potted plants can also increase the likelihood of certain fungal diseases. “For plants such as succulents, particularly in the winter months, water can gather in the rosettes resulting in a risk of rotting,” explains Horticultural Consultant Colin Skelly. “Watering from below overcomes this, allowing moistening of the soil but minimising humidity around the plant.” When you water from below, the soil and roots will have ‘sucked up’ just the amount of water that is required, leaving any excess in the container below. The plant leaves will not be wetted, but their roots should have access to moisture within the medium, and be able to obtain the water and nutrients they need. Another benefit of regular bottom watering is that plant roots will tend to grow healthily and strongly as they grow down towards the water source. Tips For Bottom Watering The key thing to remember when bottom watering is that you should check on the plants sitting in water frequently, and remove them from the water container once the upper layers of the growing medium are sufficiently moist. Leaving the plants standing in water for too long may cause water-logging issues. Though bottom watering does give you more control, it is still possible to overwater when bottom watering if you leave your potted plants in water for too long. Exactly how long you should let your plant sit in the water depends on the size of the plant and the size of the pot, and also on how dry the growing medium is when you place it in the water. Checking the medium by sticking a finger in the top after around 10 minutes is usually a good idea. After that, you can check periodically until you can feel moisture. Over time, you may also begin to be able to gauge how much water has been absorbed by the weight of the pot. “No two houseplants are the same,” states Harriet. “Bear this in mind when watering and treat each plant as an individual. “Don’t water on a regular schedule. Instead, water when your plant actually needs it and check regularly!” As a general rule of thumb, small plants should typically require around 20-30 minutes in water, though larger plants in bigger pots could require an hour or even longer.2 Be sure not to forget about your plants while they are sitting in a container of water. Is It Always The Right Option? Bottom watering will work for all potted plants. The only thing to watch out for is compacted soil; if the growing medium in your pots is too compact, it will not be able to draw up water as effectively. However, some plants respond better to bottom watering than others. The problem is, if you only water from below, this can cause salt and mineral build-up. Some plants can be particularly sensitive to this and may suffer and fail to thrive where this occurs. The good news is that, for most potted plants, you can bottom water most of the time, and flush out by watering from above periodically, perhaps once a month or so. That means that you can gain the benefits of bottom watering without worrying too much about salt and mineral build-up. While bottom watering can be beneficial, for the reasons mentioned above, it is worth noting that it will take more time. This is one downside to this type of watering. However, for most plants, with the exception of certain sensitive plants as mentioned above, regular bottom watering with occasional top watering is the best idea. References 1. Capillary Action and Water. (2019, October 22). USGS. Retrieved March 13, 2023, from https://www.usgs.gov/special-topics/water-science-school/science/capillary-action-and-water 2. Nguyen, K. (2022, January 26). This Simple Trick Keeps You From Overwatering Your Houseplants. Brightly. Retrieved March 13, 2023, from https://brightly.eco/blog/bottom-watering-plants-tips
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Horticulturists Share 9 Uses For Ashes In The Garden That Might Surprise You
IN THIS GUIDE 1) Add To A Composting System 2) To Amend Acidic Soil 3) Spread On A Vegetable Garden 4) As An Organic Fertiliser 5) To Melt Ice On Paths And Patios 6) To Clean Greenhouse Glass 7) To Keep Garden Tools Clean 8) To Clean A Barbecue 9) To Protect Stored Seeds References If you have a fire or stove, you might be wondering whether you can make use of the ashes in your garden. The answer to whether you can use ashes in your garden very much depends on what has been burned. Ashes from a fire burning coal, coke or other fossil fuels cannot typically be used in the garden. Smokeless fuel ashes are also not suitable for use in a garden. Ashes from a coal or smokeless fuel fire should not be added to your garden as they contain a variety of trace elements and heavy metals that should not be used anywhere near where food is grown, and which may pose a threat to the environment. If, however, you only burn pure, untreated wood in your fireplace, wood burner or stove then the answer is yes, you certainly can use ashes in the garden. In fact, they have a range of interesting uses, but you do have to be careful about how and where you use them. Here are several ways you can use wood ash in your garden: 1) Add To A Composting System Wood ash is a wonderful addition to a composting system – but only in moderation. The key thing to remember is that wood ash is a very alkaline substance and will make the compost more alkaline.1 Sprinkling some wood ash into a composting system can help in adding potassium and other nutrients to the mix, but it is important not to add too much in one go. It is generally best to make sure that wood ash does not make up more than 5% of the compost and, of course, ashes must be cooled first.2 Make sure the wood ash is well mixed with plenty of other brown (carbon-rich) and green (nitrogen-rich) organic materials. 2) To Amend Acidic Soil As mentioned above, wood ash is an alkaline substance, and if you have acidic soil, wood ash can be added to the garden to reduce acidity. Acidic soil is not necessarily a problem, and in fact, very slightly acidic soil is optimal for most plants, but if you have acidic soil with a pH of 5.5 or lower then you may wish to amend it in order to improve nutrient availability and increase the number of plants that can be grown. Wood ash can be used to raise the pH of the soil in much the same way as lime can. It is typically spread directly on the soil in the late winter. The RHS says it should typically be added at a rate of between 50 and 70g per square metre.3 3) Spread On A Vegetable Garden Adding wood ash to a vegetable garden may be particularly beneficial where club root of brassicas is a problem. However, remember that though high acidity in soil can be a problem, high alkalinity can be a problem too. It is important to test soil pH before and regularly after applying wood ash to make sure that the pH does not become too high. Remember, not all plants will benefit from more alkaline conditions. Potatoes, for instance, can be more prone to potato scab in areas with alkaline pH levels, so it is not a good idea to add wood ash to an area where potatoes are to be grown in the following year. 4) As An Organic Fertiliser The nutrients that wood ash will contain will depend on the specific wood that was burned, and its age. As a general rule, older wood contains lower concentrations of nutrients than young sap-filled prunings that might be used as kindling. However, since wood ash will usually contain useful levels of potassium (on average around 3%), and other plant nutrients and minerals, this means that it can be useful in small quantities as an organic fertiliser.4 Small pieces of charcoal that may be present in wood ash can also work like little sponges, absorbing water and nutrients and keeping it around in the soil. Placing charcoal within a nutrient-rich environment makes biochar, which is a useful soil amendment that also helps keep carbon in the soil. Remember, however, that this alkaline substance can change the pH of the soil, so it is important to be careful not to use it excessively, or where the soil is already highly alkaline. Certain plants will benefit more than others from the addition of wood ash. Just remember not to add it around plants like blueberries and cranberries, or other plants which like acidic growing conditions. 5) To Melt Ice On Paths And Patios While it may become a bit messy, wood ash can also be sprinkled on paths and patios to melt ice and eliminate slipping hazards. Many people will use rock salt, but this is not the best thing for the environment. Rock salt has high concentrations of salt which can kill nearby plant life and may have a detrimental effect on wildlife.5 6) To Clean Greenhouse Glass A paste of wood ash can also be a rather effective cleaner. You may already know that smearing wood ash on the glass doors of a stove can get rid of any stubborn build-up, but you might also use the wood ash to get rid of any stubborn dirt on the windows of your greenhouse. 7) To Keep Garden Tools Clean Wood ashes qualities also mean that they can help you to keep your garden tools clean. Scrub to remove any stubborn dirt, then rinse, dry and where necessary, oil tools to keep them in good condition between uses. 8) To Clean A Barbecue Another place where wood ash can come in handy for cleaning is on a barbecue grill or the grill over a fire pit. Scrubbing with the ashes can help you keep the area clean and get rid of any stubborn grease and burnt material. 9) To Protect Stored Seeds Wood ash also has absorbing properties, so it can be useful to gardeners in keeping things dry in humid conditions. In particular, gardeners who save their own seeds may find it useful to sprinkle a little wood ash in with their stored seeds to prevent any problems with moisture and rotting. However, their use in seed storage is not always favoured by some Horticulturists such as Dan Ori: “It’s subjective that ashes would be beneficial for seed storage. “Personally, I advise against it as compounds may inhibit germination, introduce contaminates, and create potential pest habitat.” As you can see from the above, wood ash has a wide range of uses in the garden. One thing to note, however, is that while some people say that wood ash can also be used for pest control, repelling slugs, snails, rodents and a range of other pests, the pest control potential of wood ash is definitely overstated. Slugs happily cross wood ash, in spite of claims, and they certainly lose all efficacy against soft-bodied pests once even the slightest bit wet. While wood ash can be used in the garden, in most locations, it is unlikely that you will be able to use as much as you generate over the course of the winter months. Fortunately, there are plenty of other ways to make use of wood ash inside your home, including soap making, cleaning, polishing silver, deodorising and more. References 1. Jackson, A. C., & Odom, C. (2021). Wood ash and water: Cause of superficial alkaline burns in a toddler. Pediatric Dermatology, 38(4), 973–974. https://doi.org/10.1111/pde.14645 2. Guide to Using Wood Ash as an Agricultural Soil Amendment. (n.d.). Extension Field Specialist. Retrieved March 9, 2023, from https://extension.unh.edu/sites/default/files/migrated_unmanaged_files/Resource004042_Rep5718.pdf 3. Wood ash: using in the garden. (n.d.). Royal Horticultural Society. Retrieved March 9, 2023, from https://www.rhs.org.uk/soil-composts-mulches/wood-ash-using-in-garden 4. Dampier, J. (n.d.). Using Wood Ash in the Home Garden. Wisconsin Horticulture. Retrieved March 9, 2023, from https://hort.extension.wisc.edu/articles/using-wood-ash-in-the-home-garden/ 5. Queensland, C. O. S. O. (2013, October 1). Impacts of salinity. Queensland Government. Retrieved March 9, 2023, from https://www.qld.gov.au/environment/land/management/soil/salinity/impacts
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Mint Cuttings Are One Of The Easiest To Take - 'Use It As An Introduction To Propagation'
IN THIS GUIDE Stem Cuttings Root Cuttings Dividing Mint Mint is one of the easiest culinary herbs to cultivate in a garden, but it can even become too successful and spread too vigorously if left unchecked. This herb comes in many varieties and makes an excellent groundcover and wildlife-friendly plant, which can help with pest control in an organic garden. Once you have some in your garden, in the right location, in full sun or partial shade and in moist soil rich in organic matter, it should go from strength to strength. It is also extremely easy to propagate your plants and grow new mint from cuttings. There are two types of cuttings that you can take from mint plants: Softwood stem cuttings Root cuttings “Mint cuttings are one of the easiest to take, so I’ve used it as a great introduction to propagation for children,” says Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly. “This is a great activity for school garden clubs, for example, where everyone gets to take one home when they’ve taken.” Both of these are straightforward gardening jobs that make it easy for you to obtain new mint plants for your garden that are copies of the parent plant, and we explain how below: Stem Cuttings To grow mint from step cuttings, taken between March and May: Take cuttings 8-10cm in length from new shoots on an existing mint plant. Take off the lower leaves and cut the stem just below a leaf node where the leaves emerge from the stem. Place the stems into a glass of water and leave the glass in a light, airy location until you see roots begin to form (make sure to refresh the water as needed). Roots should emerge within a couple of weeks. Once you see some good roots, place the cuttings into a pot with good quality, peat-free multipurpose compost. Water well and keep the medium moist. Pots should be kept indoors for a week or so, and once well established, if healthy and happy, they can be transplanted into their final growing positions. Root Cuttings To grow mint from root cuttings in autumn or winter: Use a hand fork to excavate thick roots or stolons growing around the edges of an existing clump of mint in the garden. Cut off long sections of healthy-looking roots to use for cuttings. Cut the section of stem, using a sharp knife, into sections 2-3cm long. Indoors or under cover, fill a seed tray with a 50/50 mix of multi-purpose compost and horticultural grit. Lay the root cuttings flat on the surface of this tray, then cover them over with more compost and water them in well. Once new growth emerges, pot up individual new plants into their own pots to grow on, or plant them directly out into the garden between March and May. Dividing Mint If you purchase mint in a pot from a supermarket, you can also divide the plant by simply easing it from the pot, and teasing it apart with your hands to make several sections, then replanting each of these sections into its own pot. Mature mint plants growing in the garden can also easily be divided. Simply lift a clump or a portion of a clump from the ground, and you can divide it into sections. The best times to do this are in spring or autumn. You can create as many new plants as there are stems. As long as you make sure each stem has some root attached, each one should grow into a new mint plant that you can grow elsewhere in your garden or give away to family or friends. With these methods in mind, you will never need to purchase more than one mint plant and can obtain plenty of mint for your garden.
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