Growing
Pruning Hydrangea: It Can Look Better And Produce Healthier Growth After A Trim
IN THIS GUIDE Why Prune Hydrangeas? When To Prune Hydrangea How To Identify Your Hydrangea Equipment / Tools Hydrangea Pruning For Beginners Deadheading Pruning Mopheads & Lacecaps Pruning Climbing Hydrangeas Pruning Other Varieties References Hydrangeas are among the most popular shrubs for UK gardeners, but getting the best from your hydrangea involves understanding how and when to prune them. The most important thing to understand about pruning hydrangeas is that they do not always need to be pruned regularly. However, as you will discover in this article, pruning can often be beneficial – both for aesthetic reasons and for your plant’s health. This simple guide will help you understand why pruning can sometimes be beneficial. Why Prune Hydrangeas? Hydrangeas are great low-maintenance plants; you do not always have to give them a lot of care and attention for them to bloom well and look good. Certain hydrangeas can largely be left to their own devices and may not need to be pruned at all. However, I find it is often best to prune hydrangeas, since even those that do not strictly need it can often look better and produce healthier, new, vigorous growth after a trim. Pruning can help you to remove any damaged material and keep the plants more compact and less straggly. Flowering can also sometimes be improved by judicious deadheading and/or pruning of certain types. When To Prune Hydrangea When you should prune hydrangeas very much depends on which type and variety you are growing. Shrub hydrangeas (the type I grow in my garden) are usually pruned in late winter or early spring, but climbing hydrangeas are usually pruned in the summer after they have flowered. How To Identify Your Hydrangea As mentioned above, hydrangeas are usually divided into shrub types and climbing hydrangeas. These are categorised according to the habit of their growth. Shrub types have bushy forms while climbing hydrangeas vine and grow up against a wall or fence. Climbing Hydrangea Here are some of the most common shrub types grown in UK gardens: Big-leaf hydrangeas, which include mophead and lacecap types, as well as the H. serrata. Panicle hydrangeas, like H. paniculata. Smooth hydrangeas (H. arborescens, for example). Oakleaf hydrangeas, with H. quercifolia being one of the most popular. Equipment / Tools You do not need a lot of equipment or tools to prune hydrangea. All you need is a sharp and clean pair of secateurs or gardening shears and perhaps a wheelbarrow, which will make it easier for you to transfer the cut material to your compost heap. Hydrangea Pruning For Beginners If you are new to hydrangea pruning, follow the steps outlined below: Identify your hydrangea. Determine when the best time is to prune that particular type. According to RHS-Qualified Horticulturist Colin Skelly, “the RHS recommends early spring for pruning shrub Hydrangeas, except for H. macrophylla and H. serrata which it recommends to prune in mid-spring.”1 Look over the shrub and carefully remove any dead, damaged or diseased material. Cut back to the first undamaged pair of buds on healthy living wood. Decide whether more material should be pruned away in order to improve the health and vigour of the plant, improve flowering, restrict size or improve appearance. When it comes to pruning hydrangea, remember that less is often more. You can always prune a little more in future, but you can’t put back what you cut off, so err on the side of caution if you are a little unsure. “You’ve got to be sure that when you’re cutting a hydrangea bush, you only cut a third of the pleats off each year because not all, but most hydrangeas flower on the wood of the previous year,” says Floral Designer Judith Blacklock. “So, if you remove all of the flowers, it won’t flower the next year.” Deadheading Both mophead and lacecap hydrangeas can usefully be deadheaded. Mophead Hydrangeas With lacecap types, which are generally hardier, you can cut back faded flower heads after they bloom to the second pair of leaves below. This can be beneficial because it prevents the flowers from going to seed, so the plants won’t expend energy on this and can instead focus their energy on healthy root formation and foliage growth, as well as flowering the following year. Mophead types, however, are somewhat more tender. If you live in a milder area, you might consider deadheading immediately after flowering. Generally speaking, I would argue it is best to leave the spent flower heads on the shrubs over winter. Especially in northerly climes like my garden in Scotland, spent flowers provide some frost protection for the tender new growth which emerges from below them early in the year. You can then cut off the dead flower heads in early spring, cutting back to the first healthy and strong buds below them. Pruning Mopheads & Lacecaps In terms of pruning, mopheads and lacecaps can be treated as one group, as they are among the hydrangeas which you do not necessarily have to prune at all. However, it can be beneficial to cut off any dead, damaged or diseased material. You can also keep these plants flowering well by cutting out one or two of the oldest stems on mature examples. Prune these off close to the base. I have used this technique in the past to encourage new growth that flowers well and may be used to rejuvenate an older shrub. If you have a large, sprawling and very straggly example of one of these hydrangeas, you can also consider hard pruning. Cutting off all of the stems at the base should reset the shrub and encourage healthy new growth. However, it is important to note that you will not have flowers in the year when this is undertaken and new stems will only start to flower once more the following year. “A technique I have used to avoid losing flowers for a year,” says Colin Skelly, “is to remove one-third of the oldest stems every year for 3 years, allowing for regeneration whilst keeping some flowers during the process. “After which you can resume deadheading and just removing straggly stems and the occasional older stem to maintain vigour.” Pruning Climbing Hydrangeas The key to pruning climbing hydrangeas is to cut back judiciously, leaving as much of the top of the plant unpruned as you can. Most flowers will bloom higher up, so you can remove overly long and straggly growth lower down as long as you do not go overboard higher on the plant. Cut back overgrown stems immediately after they have flowered and get rid of any damaged growth, or any growth showing signs of health problems. If you have a very large and overgrown specimen, it may tolerate hard pruning in the spring. However, pruning back too severely will certainly reduce flowering, not just in the current season but likely over the next couple of summers. If you do desire to reduce the size of a climbing hydrangea considerably, aim to do so gradually over 3-4 years so you do not lose flowering entirely. Pruning Other Varieties H. paniculata and H. arborescens can also often be largely left to their own devices. The only essential pruning job is removing any dead, damaged or diseased material in spring. However, these types will do best and flower more prolifically when you prune them back each year to a healthy framework of well-spaced branches. Each spring, cut back the growth of the previous year to a pair of healthy buds. Pruning hard to the lowest pair of buds will produce larger flower panicles on strong, upright branches. You can create a framework around 25cm high, or aim for a taller specimen by creating a framework of branches around 60cm high. Oakleaf hydrangea and other hydrangeas such as H. aspera will usually only need light pruning in spring to get rid of any dead material, or the odd unsightly long stem. References 1. How to grow shrubby hydrangeas. (n.d.). Royal Horticultural Society. Retrieved March 20, 2023, from https://www.rhs.org.uk/plants/hydrangea/shrubby/growing-guide
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Using Comfrey Feed For Tomatoes: The DIY Fertiliser That Can Help Boost Your Yield
IN THIS GUIDE Making Comfrey Tea For Tomatoes Using Comfrey Tea For Tomatoes When To Use Diluting Comfrey Solution References Comfrey is a plant commonly cultivated in organic gardens that provides many benefits, both while in active growth, and when harvested and used in various ways. One common way in which comfrey is used is for plant fertility. It can be very useful as a chop-and-drop material or mulch, for adding to a composting system, and for making a liquid plant feed, known as comfrey tea. Comfrey tea is commonly used to provide a boost of nutrients for crops in a garden. Since comfrey is a good dynamic accumulator of key plant nutrients, especially potassium, it can be especially useful for fruiting plants, like tomatoes.1 Using comfrey tea for tomatoes is a great way to improve your tomato harvest and will help to grow strong and healthy plants which deliver a high yield of fruits. The plants require potassium in particular during the reproductive stages of their lifecycle, while they are flowering and setting fruit. Making Comfrey Tea For Tomatoes Comfrey can be grown in a range of settings, and is a hardy and resilient plant. Plant it once and it will grow year after year. Just make sure that you choose the right location for planting, as you won’t be able to get rid of it easily once it establishes itself in an area. Once you have some comfrey growing in your garden: Chop up the leaves, stems and flowers into small pieces. Pack these tightly into a container with a lid. Cover the material with water, place something on top to hold the leaves down, and put the lid on your container. Wait for the material to break down. After 4-6 weeks, you will have a stinky slurry that you can dilute and use when watering your tomato plants. Using Comfrey Tea For Tomatoes Comfrey is particularly beneficial for tomatoes, as comfrey tea is very similar in nutrient profile to the commercial tomato fertilisers that you can buy. Luckily, you can make it yourself for free and it is a great organic choice. When To Use Usually, you can harvest comfrey and make your first batch of comfrey tea in June, around the same time that you plant out your tomato plants. You can use it to water the tomatoes as soon as it is ready, repeating every two weeks or so. You can also make a second batch towards the end of the summer, once the comfrey has regrown, and use it to give a further boost to the tomatoes during their peak fruiting season. Diluting Comfrey Solution The slurry mix of rotted down comfrey will need to be diluted before it can be used on your tomato plants. Add 1 part of this slurry mix to 10 parts water to make a comfrey tea. Then fill a watering can 1/3 full of this comfrey tea and 2/3 full of water, and pour this around the base of the tomato plant – trying to avoid wetting the foliage, flowers or fruit. This is a relatively weak solution but should be sufficient to give the tomato plants the boost they need to fruit well. If the plants are showing signs of nutrient deficiency you may wish to increase the proportion of comfrey tea you use. “When using for the first time, start with a very weak mix and check plants for any ill effects that may look like burning, as too strong a mix can do more harm than good” shares Dan Ori, a Horticultural Instructor and Consultant. “If all is well after testing a weak mix you can creep up to 1/3 comfrey tea to 2/3 water, just keep checking the plants for burning as it can happen that mixes come out too strong.” References 1. Role of Potassium in Tomato Production. (2018, May 23). Yara United States. Retrieved March 14, 2023, from https://www.yara.us/crop-nutrition/tomato/role-of-potassium/
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Follow These Guidelines To Harvest Comfrey For Culinary Uses Or As Garden Mulch
IN THIS GUIDE Harvesting For Culinary Use Harvesting For Mulch & Compost References Comfrey can be very useful in a huge range of different ways, providing a range of yield for your home or for use in your garden. Harvesting comfrey, whatever you are using it for, could not be easier, and once harvested, it will readily regrow. However, how exactly you harvest comfrey will depend on how much you are growing and what you are using it for. Harvesting For Culinary Use Comfrey can provide edible uses, and some people eat the very young leaves in moderation, raw or cooked, and the young shoots are occasionally used as an asparagus substitute.1 If harvesting comfrey leaves for edible uses, you can simply cut or pull off leaves as they are required. If you plan on eating the young leaves, harvest these as early in spring as possible, before the leaves get very hairy and before flowering stalks form. “Personally, I would not advocate eating comfrey and strongly encourage you to research its culinary use thoroughly if you are considering it,” adds Dan Ori, a Horticulturist. “I always wear gloves when handling comfrey and encourage you to do the same.” Harvesting For Mulch & Compost Comfrey may also be harvested for use in garden fertilisers. You can chop and drop comfrey plants where they grow, cutting them off near the base and letting the plant material fall to the ground to break down and feed the soil and nearby plants. Or, you can also cut back the plants and remove the material to redistribute the nutrients it contains to other parts of the garden. Some ways to do this include using it as a mulch in vegetable beds, spreading it around trees or other perennials, composting the material, or making a liquid plant feed. You can either cut off the whole of the plant down to the ground, or take portions – leaving some to remain in flower for bees and other insects in your garden. To cut back comfrey and make use of the abundant biomass for plant fertility, you can use garden shears, a scythe, or even mow larger areas of comfrey to obtain the material. The approach you take will obviously depend on the size of the area and the number of plants that need to be harvested, and also where the plants are growing. Typically, you can harvest comfrey by chopping most of the plants down close to the ground in late June. The plants then regrow and can be harvested again towards the end of the summer or in early autumn. Always make sure to leave some comfrey standing to continue to benefit the wildlife in your garden which will allow it to die back naturally at the end of the year. References 1. Comfrey, Slightly Toxic but Holds So Many Health Benefits. (2019, May 15). Eat the Planet. Retrieved March 14, 2023, from https://eattheplanet.org/comfrey-slightly-toxic-but-holds-so-many-health-benefits/
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Cultivate Aromatic Basil At Home With These Tips From Master Horticulturists
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Common Varieties How To Grow Basil Basil Plant Care References Basil is a popular and delicious herb to grow. You can grow it in your garden for the summer or grow it indoors, but there are certain things you need to know in order to do so successfully. In this guide, we’ll help you understand more about this useful culinary herb and give you the information you need to grow it at home. Growing herbs like basil at home is a great way to start your gardening journey or to expand your gardening skill. It can help you avoid the costs (both financial and environmental) of purchasing fresh herbs like basil in plastic from a supermarket or other store. Overview Botanical Name Ocimum basilicum Common Name(s) Basil Plant Type Herb / Annual Native Area Africa to South-East Asia Hardiness Rating H1C Foliage Deciduous Flowers White or pink When To Plant February to July Harvesting Months June to September Common basil, also known as great basil, has the botanical name Ocimum basilicum. This is a culinary herb in the Lamiaceae family, which is native to the tropical regions of South East Asia.1 Plants called ‘basil’ also come from other species in the Ocimum genus. Examples include Ocimum sanctum and O. americanum. In the UK, most people are most familiar with O. basilicum, also known as sweet basil, and we’ll focus on this species for this guide. However, you might be surprised to learn just how many different variants even of this type of basil are available. Common Varieties Exploring the nuance of different types of common basil is one of the great things about growing your own basil at home. O. basilicum ‘Cinnamon’ Here are some of the popular types and cultivars of basil with varying leaf colours and flavours to consider: ‘Cinnamon’ ‘Crimson King’ ‘Lettuce Leaf’ ‘African Blue’ ‘Thai Sita’ ‘Floral Spires’ O. basilicum var. minimum O. basilicum var. thrysiflora O. basilcum var. citriodora How To Grow Basil Growing Basil From Seed Growing basil from seed is relatively easy. Basil can be sown indoors from February or early March, or any time right up until July. The seeds are sown into pots of peat-free potting mix, sometimes in a propagator when sown early, but usually on a light windowsill that is warm and without extreme temperature fluctuations. Planting Out You do not necessarily have to plant basil out in your garden. In fact, basil is often best kept in a container and grown on a bright and sunny windowsill indoors. Container growing is a good way to ensure that you can harvest your basil for as long as possible. However, it is also well worthwhile to consider planting out basil in the garden, since as well as being a useful culinary herb, it is also a very useful companion crop, especially for tomatoes. Where tomatoes can be grown outdoors or in a greenhouse successfully, you should get an annual crop of basil too. “Strong aromas from basil reportedly help repel thrip pests, so not only do the two flavours mix well in the mouth, but they work well together in the garden,” explains Peter Lickorish, a Lecturer on Horticulture. Basil should be planted out once all risk of frost has passed in your area, which is usually, unless growing undercover, from late May onward. Make sure that you harden off your plants by slowly acclimatising them to the outdoor conditions before planting them in the ground or before placing containers outside full time. Growing In Containers Growing basil in containers is often the best option, as mentioned above, for gardeners in the UK. But indoors or outside, you do have to make sure that you choose the right pots or containers, a suitable growing medium, and take care of your plants carefully. “Compost should be peat free with good drainage, so consider adding perlite and make sure to break up any large lumps,” Peter suggests. One downside to growing in containers is that you will have to water more frequently. The smaller the container, the quicker it will tend to dry out. “Terracotta pots, as well as being decorative, can retain and release some moisture back to the compost,” explains Peter. Of course, you can grow basil on its own in smaller, individual pots, but one other option to consider is growing basil in larger containers alongside one or more other plants in a mixed herb pot. Basil Plant Care If you place basil in a suitable location, it should be relatively easy to care for. Make sure that you consider the environmental needs and care basics outlined below to make sure that you are successful in growing these plants. Light Basil should be grown in full sun. They will enjoy a spot on the south or west side of a raised bed with tomatoes, or a sunny spot on a patio or in a courtyard garden in a container. In a container, in beds, or in the ground, they should thrive in a sunny spot that is sheltered from strong winds. Indoors, you should be sure to place a basil plant in as bright and sunny a location as possible. A south-facing windowsill is ideal. Soil Conditions Basil requires moist, but reasonably well-drained soil. A kitchen garden bed used for other annual crops should provide the right conditions. Preferred Climate Basil is a plant native to the tropics. It cannot withstand any frost at all and can only ever be grown outside in the UK over the summer months. Its hardiness rating is H1C, so it can cope with temperatures down to around 5-10°C, but no lower. The more warmth you can give it, the better it will tend to grow. Since basil likes warmth, providing a spot which is as protected and sheltered as possible is the key to success. Watering, Humidity & Fertilising Though the medium of soil should be free-draining, basil does like plenty of water and reasonably high humidity over the summer months. Water well and regularly, but always make sure, especially when growing in containers, that excess water can drain away. Try to water before mid-day if possible and try to water the soil at the base and not the leaves of the plant. This can reduce problems such as powdery mould or mildew. Mulching around basil with comfrey leaves or other organic mulches can help retain water and will also help meet the plants’ nutrient requirements. Pruning With basil, pruning and harvesting are one and the same. Pick the leaves and tops off basil little and often through the summer months, from July to September outdoors, and through autumn and into winter if you are growing indoors, or move outdoors plants indoors before frosts threaten. You can pick plenty, just be sure to leave at least three couples of side shoots so that regrowth can continue. Pinching Out If you are looking to maximise your yield of leaves for culinary use, you should pinch out the flowering heads as soon as these emerge to perpetuate leafy growth. However, remember that there may be benefits in your garden to leaving some basil plants to flower. They can attract pollinators and other beneficial insects and they can look beautiful too. Common Pests & Problems Slugs and snails can be a problem, as can leafhoppers, and aphids. Companion planting and generally increasing biodiversity in your garden can help with pest control outdoors. “Woodiness developing in stems and incorrect watering are among the most common problems,” Peter adds. “Regular harvesting can prevent plants from becoming woody to maximise longevity. “For watering, aim to hit the sweet spot between giving fast-growing plants the moisture they need and leaving them sitting in wet, sludgy compost.” Companion Planting Tomatoes don’t just like basil as a companion in the ground; they can work very well together in containers too. Basil is also a good companion for peppers and aubergines. Garlic or other alliums can also be beneficial as a companion for basil and these other crops, and marigolds are another great addition to polycultures that include these plants, helping to lure away aphids. Basil can also work well in combination with other culinary herbs which like similar growing conditions. Herbs to plant alongside basil include oregano and chamomile, which are said to help in the basil’s growth and flavour. Parsley and basil can grow alongside one another too. Borage, anise, bergamot, chicory, and coriander are some other herbs which can thrive in similar conditions. Harvesting Try to pick only what you need and either use or preserve it as quickly as possible. Basil is really best fresh, but can also be frozen in cubes of water or olive oil, or dried for later use. It’s important to note that harvested basil leaves should be stored unwashed until you need to use them, as they will turn slimy. References 1. Basil. (n.d.). Iowa State University. Retrieved March 13, 2023, from https://hortnews.extension.iastate.edu/1997/3-21-1997/basil.html
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How To Grow Kniphofia (Red Hot Poker Plant) For Fiery Flowering Spires In Summer
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Commonly Grown Varieties How To Grow Kniphofia Kniphofia Plant Care Companion Planting References Kniphofia, also known as ‘Red Hot Poker’, are dramatic and exotic-looking plants that are surprisingly easy to grow in many UK gardens. These plants are well known and easily recognised because of their stunning bottlebrush-shaped flowering spires, which come in a wide range of fiery colours, not only oranges and russets and reds, but also yellows, lime greens and more. They have a long flowering season and so can be a great value addition to your garden. Overview Botanical Name Kniphofia Common Name(s) Red Hot Poker Plant Plant Type Perennial Native Area Africa Hardiness Rating H5 Foliage Deciduous Flowers Dense upright racemes of tubular flowers in a range of hues When To Plant March, April, May, June Harvesting Months June, July, August When To Prune March Kniphofia is a genus of flowering perennials in the Asphodelaceae plant family.1 They are native to Africa but are commonly grown in many gardens around the globe.2 As well as being referred to as red hot pokers for their fiery flowering spires, they are also sometimes referred to as ‘poker plants’ or ‘torch lilies’. Several species of Kniphofia are commonly cultivated in gardens, including K. thomsonii, K. rooperi, K. northiae and K galipinii, and there are also many other cultivars and hybrids. Commonly Grown Varieties Some commonly grown and highly regarded Kniphofia, which have received Awards of Garden Merit from the Royal Horticultural Society, include: ‘Barton Fever’ ‘Bees’ Sunset’ ‘Brimstone’ ‘Buttercup’ ‘Coral Flame’ ‘Fiery Fred’ ‘Incandescence’ ‘Innocence’ ‘Jonathan’ ‘Moonshine’ ‘Nobilis’ ‘Penny Rockets’ ‘Primrose Upward’ ‘Rich Echoes’ ‘Royal Standard’ ‘Safranvogel’ ‘Samuel’s Sensation’ ‘Sunningdale Yellow’ ‘Tawny King’ ‘Timothy’ ‘Toffee Nosed’ ‘Wrexham Buttercup’ How To Grow Kniphofia Growing From Seed Kniphofia cultivars will not usually come true from seeds collected from the flowers as some are sterile, so growing from seed is not the recommended means of propagation.3 Instead, existing plants can be propagated by division, which is undertaken in the spring, which we’ll talk about a little more later in this guide. Young Kniphofia plants are also widely available for sale from garden centres and plant nurseries. When And Where To Plant The best time to plant out red hot pokers is in the spring. Exactly which month you plant will depend to an extent on where you live and the conditions to be found there. Planting a little later can be better in more northern areas, while planting a little earlier may be better in the south. Red hot pokers work well in mixed perennial beds or borders. However, it is important to consider their environmental needs and to choose a planting location carefully. Temperature & Humidity Red hot pokers are H5 hardy and will make it through the winter happily across most of the UK, even during extremely harsh winters. This plant can cope with temperatures down to at least -10°C over the winter months. In summer, it will require some warmth to flower well, but can thrive even in exposed locations. Sunlight Kniphofia should be grown in full sun. Though they can cope with partial shade, flowering will be significantly reduced if the plants don’t get full sun. A south-facing aspect is ideal. Soil Requirements Red hot pokers will absolutely love a sandy soil enriched with plenty of organic matter, but they will do well in any deep, moist but well-draining soil which has an acidic or neutral pH. When planting in soils which are not particularly free draining, it can be beneficial to add a handful of grit to the base of the planting hole to aid in drainage. Kniphofia can also be grown in containers, but care should be taken to choose a container and growing medium which allows for sufficient moisture retention while allowing excess water to drain away freely. Kniphofia Plant Care When placed in a position where it is comfortable, this is an easy plant to care for and should remain in your garden happily over a number of years. Watering Root rot is an issue which can commonly affect kniphofias when the conditions are not sufficiently free draining and where overwatering has occurred. To avoid this, water modestly during prolonged dry spells, more frequently when growing in containers. However, make sure that you do not overdo it and that excess water should drain away freely. Feeding These are not plants which will usually require additional feeding. However, if growth or flowering is poor when growing in containers, it may be beneficial to add an organic, balanced, slow-release fertiliser in spring. Overwintering Some protection against excessive winter wet may be required over the first couple of growing seasons in areas where winter rainfall is high. Pruning Some gardeners will prune back the flower heads after flowering, but it is best in a wildlife-friendly garden to leave these in place until spring, to give wildlife habitat for winter protection. Leaving the dead stems in place until around March can also provide a little more protection against winter wet. Propagation As mentioned above, propagation for named cultivars cannot be achieved via sowing seeds, but is achieved easily by means of the division of mature plants. Division is undertaken in the spring and will not only provide new plants to place elsewhere in your garden, but will also avoid issues with congestion as clumps become established. Common Problems Some protection may be required to protect the plants against slugs and snails which munch on new growth in the spring. Excessive watering and water-logging are the most common issues and can lead to fungal root rot. This is remedied by avoiding overwatering, ensuring good drainage, and protecting plants from extreme winter wet. Otherwise, these are relatively hassle-free plants to grow. Companion Planting Red hot pokers look wonderful alongside other fiery-hued plants which like similarly sunny and moist yet free-draining growing conditions, or alongside purple-hued plants as they provide a striking contrast. For example, try placing red hot pokers alongside Asters, Cosmos, Daylilies, Gaillardia, Helenium, Heliopsis, Liatris, Rudbeckia, or Salvias. Ornamental grasses can also work very well alongside red hot pokers and other flowering perennials in a bed or border. “Some of the species, such as K. caulescens, have attractive foliage when not in flower, whilst others are messier,” shares Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly. “Keep in mind what you want to combine your kniphofia with and consider what it will look like when not in flower. “All species and cultivars provide an exotic touch and vertical accent from mid-late summer, which I love.” References 1. Pokers (Genus Kniphofia). (n.d.). iNaturalist United Kingdom. Retrieved March 20, 2023, from https://uk.inaturalist.org/taxa/56036-Kniphofia 2. Kniphofia uvaria. (n.d.). Missouri Botanical Gardens. Retrieved March 20, 2023, from https://www.missouribotanicalgarden.org/PlantFinder/PlantFinderDetails.aspx?kempercode=i310 3. Kniphofia – red-hot pokers. (n.d.). Royal Horticultural Society. Retrieved March 20, 2023, from https://www.rhs.org.uk/plants/articles/misc/kniphofia
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How Master Horticulturist Dan Ori Uses Low Growing Shrubs To 'Knit His Planting Together'
IN THIS GUIDE Shrubs For Spring Interest Shrubs For Summer Interest Shrubs For Autumn & Winter Interest References I find that low-growing shrubs can be very useful to create ground cover in beds or borders or to create low boundary hedges between different parts of your garden. When chosen carefully they can be very useful, adding interest and appeal to your garden all year-round. To narrow down your choices somewhat, the first things to think of include: Climatic conditions in your garden. Your soil type and the properties of the soil where you live. Whether you are looking for a small shrub for full sun, partial or deep shade. You will also need to consider where and how exactly you would like to grow your low-growing shrubs. I typically use low-growing and small shrubs in the garden for: Creating low bed edging, boundaries between different ‘garden rooms’ or low hedges. Bringing structure in the middle or towards the front of beds or borders. Growing in containers to bring interest to a patio or courtyard area. “When planting low-growing shrubs in your garden, you have a great opportunity to knit together the existing planting by using a selection technique called ‘something different, something the same'” shares Horticultural Consultant Dan Ori. “For example, if you have a Weigela florida ‘Nana Variegata’ in your border, you could then plant the blue flowered variegated leaf Vinca major ‘Variegata’ near it. “After, plant something else blue or variegated to match the Vinca major and something pink to match the Weigela florida.” Once you have decided how you would like to use small shrubs and where you will be growing them, you can begin to think about how the shrubs might look throughout the year. Consider when they have their main season of interest, and also, what the shrubs might offer for you, wildlife, and other plants growing in your garden. Any list of low-growing and small shrubs must of course be highly selective, but here are fifteen of my favourite picks for interest and utility throughout the year: Shrubs For Spring Interest 1) Ceanothus thyrsiflorus var. repens COMMON NAME(S): Creeping Blue Blossom HARDINESS RATING: H4 FOLIAGE TYPE: Evergreen FLOWERS: Blue FLOWERING SEASON(S): Spring / Summer SUNLIGHT: Full Sun EXPOSURE: Sheltered SOIL PREFERENCE: Clay, loam, sand; Alkaline or neutral pH SIZE: 1-1.5m in height, 2.5-4m spread Ceanothus can be a useful plant because it is not only beautiful, with stunning blue flowers, but it also fixes nitrogen.1 This can potentially be beneficial for other plants growing close by. It is also a great ground cover plant for sheltered and sunny positions, as it grows well on slopes and can reach up to around 90cm in height. I have a large Ceanothus at the foot of my garden and it is absolutely swarming with bees when in flower (usually at the beginning of June). While this usually only lasts a few weeks, it typically flowers again in late September – though I must admit this bloom is far less showy than its early summer show. 2) Cytisus × beanii COMMON NAME(S): Bean’s Broom HARDINESS RATING: H5 FOLIAGE TYPE: Deciduous FLOWERS: Yellow FLOWERING SEASON(S): Spring / Summer SUNLIGHT: Full Sun EXPOSURE: Sheltered SOIL PREFERENCE: Chalk, loam, sand; any pH SIZE: 0.5-1m in height, 0.5-1m spread In the Fabaceae plant family, Bean’s broom is another nitrogen-fixing plant.2 It is a semi-prostrate shrub which can be grown even in areas with poor soils, in free-draining conditions in full sun. With its green, linear leaves and bright, cheerful yellow flowers that bloom in late spring or early summer, it can be useful for a range of tricky garden spots. 3) Genista tinctoria COMMON NAME(S): Dyer’s Greenwood HARDINESS RATING: H6 FOLIAGE TYPE: Deciduous FLOWERS: Yellow FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer / Autumn SUNLIGHT: Full Sun EXPOSURE: Exposed / Sheltered SOIL PREFERENCE: Chalk, loam, sand; any pH SIZE: 0.5-1m in height, 0.5-1m spread Another nitrogen-fixing shrub is commonly known as ‘Dyers greenweed’. As the name suggests, this plant is also useful for a good quality yellow dye obtained from its flowers and young shoots.3 Placing the plants around 45cm apart can give good ground cover. It is also not only ornamental but also great for wildlife in your garden. It grows well in light and even poor soil in a sunny position and is H6 hardy. 4) Skimmia japonica ‘Nymans’ COMMON NAME(S): Skimmia ‘Nymans’ HARDINESS RATING: H5 FOLIAGE TYPE: Evergreen FLOWERS: White FLOWERING SEASON(S): Spring FRUIT SEASON(S): Autumn SUNLIGHT: Full Shade / Partial Shade EXPOSURE: Exposed / Sheltered SOIL PREFERENCE: Chalk, loam; any pH SIZE: 0.5-1m in height, 1-1.5m spread There are a number of smaller Skimmias that can be great choices if you are looking for a small and low-growing shrub. ‘Nymans’ is one great option to consider. It has narrow, elliptical, dark green, evergreen foliage and bears clusters of white flowers in spring, as well as bright red berries in autumn. It is great for attracting wildlife to your garden in moist but well-drained soil or growing medium in full or partial shade. 5) Vinca major ‘Variegata’ COMMON NAME(S): Variegated Greater Periwinkle HARDINESS RATING: H6 FOLIAGE TYPE: Evergreen FLOWERS: Blue and purple FLOWERING SEASON(S): Spring / Summer / Autumn SUNLIGHT: Full Sun / Full Shade / Partial Shade EXPOSURE: Exposed / Sheltered SOIL PREFERENCE: Any soil type; any pH SIZE: 0.1-0.5m in height, 1.5-2.5m spread This evergreen sub-shrub has beautiful, variegated foliage and violet flowers which open from spring to autumn. It is H6 hardy in the UK. It is ideal for a huge range of situations, from full sun through to full shade and can spread to create an excellent ground cover. For example, I would typically use Vinca major as a good choice for creating cover below deciduous trees. Shrubs For Summer Interest 6) Caryopteris × clandonensis ‘Heavenly Blue’ COMMON NAME(S): Bluebeard ‘Heavenly Blue’ HARDINESS RATING: H4 FOLIAGE TYPE: Deciduous FLOWERS: Blue FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer / Autumn SUNLIGHT: Full Sun EXPOSURE: Sheltered SOIL PREFERENCE: Chalk, loam, sand; any pH SIZE: 0.5-1m in height, 1-1.5m spread This beautiful shrub with small blue flowers that bloom in the late summer and into autumn is a great choice for a sheltered and free-draining site in full sun. It is H4 hardy and is a good pick for attracting pollinators and other beneficial insects to your garden. ‘Heavenly Blue’ particularly will thrive in a small courtyard garden, in a container, or in a position near a sunny, warm wall. 7) Lavandula angustifolia ‘Hidcote’ COMMON NAME(S): English Lavender ‘Hidcote’ HARDINESS RATING: H5 FOLIAGE TYPE: Evergreen FLOWERS: Purple FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer SUNLIGHT: Full Sun EXPOSURE: Sheltered SOIL PREFERENCE: Any soil type; any pH SIZE: 0.1-0.5m in height, 0.5-1m spread Lavender is one of the best-known low shrubs. It can be perfect in full sun and free-draining conditions, for creating bed edging or for growing alongside pathways. Lavender is wonderful for wildlife and also has a wide range of uses inside your home. 8) Ruta graveolens ‘Jackman’s Blue’ COMMON NAME(S): Rue ‘Jackman’s Blue’ HARDINESS RATING: H5 FOLIAGE TYPE: Evergreen FLOWERS: Yellow FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer FRUIT SEASON(S): Autumn SUNLIGHT: Full Sun / Partial Shade EXPOSURE: Exposed SOIL PREFERENCE: Loam, sand; any pH SIZE: 0.5-1m in height, 0.5-1m spread Rue can be an excellent companion plant for fruit trees, fruiting shrubs, and roses, amongst others. It will grow in any moderately fertile and well-drained soil in full sun or partial shade, and is also H5 hardy. ‘Jackman’s Blue’ is one popular cultivar to consider. It has traditionally been thought of as good for repelling certain pest species which is why it is commonly used as a companion plant.4 9) Rosmarinus officinalis ‘Erectus’ COMMON NAME(S): Rosemary ‘Miss Jessopp’s Upright’ HARDINESS RATING: H4 FOLIAGE TYPE: Evergreen FLOWERS: Blue FLOWERING SEASON(S): Spring / Summer SUNLIGHT: Full Sun EXPOSURE: Sheltered SOIL PREFERENCE: Chalk, loam, sand; any pH SIZE: 1-1.5m in height, 1-1.5m spread Rosemary is of course a well-known Mediterranean culinary herb. It can also be useful, like lavender, for making low hedgerows, and can be beneficial as a companion plant in certain situations. It thrives in full sun, in free draining conditions, and is H4 hardy. 10) Thymus vulgaris COMMON NAME(S): Common Thyme HARDINESS RATING: H5 FOLIAGE TYPE: Evergreen FLOWERS: Pink and white FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer SUNLIGHT: Full Sun EXPOSURE: Exposed / Sheltered SOIL PREFERENCE: Chalk, loam, sand; Alkaline or neutral pH SIZE: 0.1-0.5m in height, 0.1-0.5m spread Another small shrub which is also a culinary herb is thyme. There are many different cultivars and types to choose from. Thyme can often be a great choice for the front of beds or borders, and for creating ground cover in a sunny and free-draining spot. Shrubs For Autumn & Winter Interest Winter heathers are other small shrubs which can be wonderful in a range of settings, flowering at a time of the year when there are often fewer blooms available. They add winter interest to your garden and also bring benefits for early pollinators. Here are my five favourites: 11) Erica x darleyensis ‘Darley Dale’ COMMON NAME(S): Heather ‘Darley Dale’ HARDINESS RATING: H5 FOLIAGE TYPE: Evergreen FLOWERS: Pink FLOWERING SEASON(S): Winter / Spring SUNLIGHT: Full Sun EXPOSURE: Exposed / Sheltered SOIL PREFERENCE: Any soil type; any pH SIZE: 0.1-0.5m in height, 0.5-1m spread ‘Darley Dale’ is one attractive cultivar to consider. It has pink and white tipped foliage in spring, and pink flowers borne from late winter into early spring. Grow it in full sun, in well-drained soil or growing medium. 12) Euonymus fortunei ‘Emerald Gaiety’ COMMON NAME(S): Spindle ‘Emerald Gaiety’ HARDINESS RATING: H5 FOLIAGE TYPE: Evergreen FLOWERS: Green FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer SUNLIGHT: Full Sun / Partial Shade EXPOSURE: Exposed / Sheltered SOIL PREFERENCE: Any soil type; any pH SIZE: 0.5-1m in height, 1-1.5m spread A great shrub and foliage plant for full sun or partial shade, Euonymus fortunei offers beautiful rounded leaves with white margins, which are pink-tinged in the winter. It is H5 hardy and can spread to create an excellent ground cover. Tolerant of clipping, this shrub is one of my favourites as it can also make a great formal low hedge. 13) Gaultheria procumbens COMMON NAME(S): Checkerberry HARDINESS RATING: H5 FOLIAGE TYPE: Evergreen FLOWERS: Pink and white FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer FRUIT SEASON(S): Summer / Autumn SUNLIGHT: Full Shade / Partial Shade EXPOSURE: Exposed / Sheltered SOIL PREFERENCE: Clay, loam, sand; Alkaline or Acid pH SIZE: 0.1-0.5m in height, 0.5-1m spread This small evergreen shrub, also known as wintergreen, and by a range of other names, has leathery leaves, fragrant when crushed, which take on a reddish blush in winter. The plant has small bell-shaped flowers in white or pink in summer, followed by bright red berries. This is an excellent plant for ground cover in moist but well-drained acidic or neutral soil in full or partial shade, and it is H5 hardy. This shrub is also great for wildlife. 14) Mahonia aquifolium ‘Apollo’ COMMON NAME(S): Oregon Grape ‘Apollo’ HARDINESS RATING: H5 FOLIAGE TYPE: Evergreen FLOWERS: Yellow FLOWERING SEASON(S): Spring FRUIT SEASON(S): Summer / Autumn SUNLIGHT: Full Shade / Partial Shade EXPOSURE: Exposed / Sheltered SOIL PREFERENCE: Any soil type; any pH SIZE: 0.5-1m in height, 1-1.5m spread This is a compact cultivar of the shrub known as ‘oregon grape’. It has leaves which take on a somewhat purplish hue in winter and bears bright yellow flowers in late winter and into early spring, which are followed by edible berries. A great choice for full or partial shade, this small shrub works very well in a forest garden like mine or in a woodland setting. 15) Potentilla fruticosa COMMON NAME(S): Shrubby Cinquefoil HARDINESS RATING: H7 FOLIAGE TYPE: Deciduous FLOWERS: Yellow FLOWERING SEASON(S): Spring / Summer / Autumn SUNLIGHT: Full Sun / Partial Shade EXPOSURE: Exposed / Sheltered SOIL PREFERENCE: Any soil type; any pH SIZE: 1-1.5m in height, 1-1.5m spread H7 hardy and able to cope with a wide range of conditions, shrubby cinquefoil can be a great choice for full sun or partial shade. With flowers that are borne in early autumn, it can be great for pollinators and other wildlife. This plant can work well as an informal low hedge and some forms work well as ground cover. Of course, these are just a few of the many, many options for low-growing and small shrubs that you could consider, but perhaps they may help you find inspiration for your own garden. References 1. Russell, S., & Evans, H. (1967, June). The Nitrogen-Fixing Capacity of Ceanothus velutinus. Oxford Academic: Forest Science. Retrieved March 21, 2023, from https://academic.oup.com/forestscience/article-abstract/12/2/164/4709415 2. Wheeler, C., Helgerson, O., Perry, D., & Gordon, J. (1987, April). Nitrogen Fixation and Biomass Accumulation in Plant Communities Dominated by Cytisus scoparius L. in Oregon and Scotland. JSTOR. Retrieved March 21, 2023, from https://www.jstor.org/stable/2403800 3. Dyeing with Dyer’s Greenweed. (n.d.). Wild Colours Natural Dyes. Retrieved March 21, 2023, from http://www.wildcolours.co.uk/html/greenweed.html 4. Tirreell, R. (1973, July 29). Rue and Tansy Protect Crops As Natural Insecticides. The New York Times. Retrieved March 21, 2023, from https://www.nytimes.com/1973/07/29/archives/rue-and-tansy-protect-crops-as-natural-insecticides.html
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These 50 Variegated Plants Add Foliage Variation And Help Draw The Eye
IN THIS GUIDE Variegated Trees Large Variegated Shrubs Small Variegated Shrubs Variegated Climbers Herbaceous Plants With Variegation References Plants with variegated foliage can bring a lot of interest to your garden. Variegated plants are plants with streaks, edging or splotches of different colours. Usually, leaves will be in a combination of two colours – green and white or gold and green, though other variations are possible. It is important to introduce variegated plants with care, as too much variegation can cause a frenzied effect, distracting the eye and detracting from the overall effect. Sometimes, variegated plants divide opinion: some gardeners love them, others avoid them like the plague. “I’m a pragmatist when it comes to variegated foliage,” shares Colin Skelly, a Master Horticulturist. “Ordinarily I’m not drawn to them as individual specimens, but when designing, variegated plants are often a useful addition of foliage variation or to draw the eye.” Variegated plants can sometimes detract from the natural look in a garden, but if they are carefully used, variegated plants can break up monotonous greens, or enliven a darker more shaded corner of your space. We’ve produced a list of 50 interesting options which you might like to consider. There are literally thousands of cultivars with variegated foliage; trees, shrubs, climbers and all sorts of herbaceous plants, so any list can only ever be highly selective. However, it can be difficult to know where to begin when choosing variegated plants for your garden, so this list may help you to explore at least some of the options available. Variegated Trees Variegated trees can be statement pieces and can act as dramatic centrepieces for your planting schemes. Here is a list of great variegated trees to consider: 1) Acer negundo COMMON NAME(S): Box Elder HARDINESS RATING: H6 FOLIAGE TYPE: Deciduous FOLIAGE: Green and yellow FLOWERING SEASON(S): Spring 2) Acer platanoides ‘Drummondii’ COMMON NAME(S): Norway maple ‘Drummondii’ HARDINESS RATING: H7 FOLIAGE TYPE: Deciduous FOLIAGE: Green, yellow and cream FLOWERING SEASON(S): Spring 3) Acer pseudoplatanus f. variegatum ‘Simon-Louis Freres’ COMMON NAME(S): Variegated Sycamore ‘Simon-Louis Frères’ HARDINESS RATING: H7 FOLIAGE TYPE: Deciduous FOLIAGE: Pink, green and white 4) Castanea sativa ‘Albomarginata’ COMMON NAME(S): Sweet Chestnut ‘Albomarginata’ HARDINESS RATING: H6 FOLIAGE TYPE: Deciduous FOLIAGE: Green and white FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer 5) Cercis canadensis COMMON NAME(S): Eastern Redbud HARDINESS RATING: H5 FOLIAGE TYPE: Deciduous FOLIAGE: Purple and green FLOWERING SEASON(S): Spring 6) Cornus controversa ‘Variegata’ COMMON NAME(S): Wedding Cake Tree HARDINESS RATING: H5 FOLIAGE TYPE: Deciduous FOLIAGE: Cream, green and yellow FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer 7) Cornus kousa ‘Gold Star’ COMMON NAME(S): Kousa ‘Gold Star’ HARDINESS RATING: H6 FOLIAGE TYPE: Deciduous FOLIAGE: Green, cream, yellow, red and purple FLOWERING SEASON(S): Spring FRUITING SEASON(S): Autumn 8) Ligustrum lucidum ‘Excelsum Superbum’ COMMON NAME(S): Chinese privet ‘Excelsum Superbum’ HARDINESS RATING: H5 FOLIAGE TYPE: Evergreen FOLIAGE: Green and yellow FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer / Autumn FRUITING SEASONS(S): Autumn 9) Liquidambar styraciflua COMMON NAME(S): Sweet Gum HARDINESS RATING: H6 FOLIAGE TYPE: Deciduous FOLIAGE: Green, orange, purple and red FLOWERING SEASON(S): Spring 10) Salix integra ‘Hakuro-Nishiki’ COMMON NAME(S): Flamingo Willow HARDINESS RATING: H5 FOLIAGE TYPE: Deciduous FOLIAGE: Pink, green, white and cream FLOWERING SEASON(S): Spring Large Variegated Shrubs Large shrubs can form the backbone of a garden design. They can be used as stand-alone pieces to complement trees with variegated leaves, or they can work well at the back of borders, or around the edges of a garden. Our top picks are outlined below: 11) Acer campestre ‘Carnival’ COMMON NAME(S): Field Maple ‘Carnival’ HARDINESS RATING: H6 FOLIAGE TYPE: Deciduous FOLIAGE: Pink, cream, green and yellow 12) Acer palmatum ‘Butterfly’ COMMON NAME(S): Japanese Maple ‘Butterfly’ HARDINESS RATING: H6 FOLIAGE TYPE: Deciduous FOLIAGE: Green and cream FLOWERING SEASON(S): Spring 13) Aralia elata COMMON NAME(S): Angelia Tree HARDINESS RATING: H5 FOLIAGE TYPE: Deciduous FOLIAGE: Green, orange and yellow FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer / Autumn 14) Aucuba japonica ‘Golden King’ COMMON NAME(S): Japanese Laurel ‘Golden King’ HARDINESS RATING: H5 FOLIAGE TYPE: Evergreen FOLIAGE: Green and yellow FLOWERING SEASON(S): Spring 15) Berberis thunbergii f. atropurpurea ‘Rose Glow’ COMMON NAME(S): Japanese Barberry ‘Rose Glow’ HARDINESS RATING: H7 FOLIAGE TYPE: Deciduous FOLIAGE: Pink, purple and white FLOWERING SEASON(S): Spring 16) Elaeagnus x ebbingei ‘Limelight’ COMMON NAME(S): Oleaster ‘Limelight’ HARDINESS RATING: H5 FOLIAGE TYPE: Evergreen FOLIAGE: Silver, gold, cream and green FLOWERING SEASON(S): Autumn 17) Elaeagnus pungens ‘Maculata’ COMMON NAME(S): Oleaster ‘Maculata’ HARDINESS RATING: H5 FOLIAGE TYPE: Evergreen FOLIAGE: Green, silver and yellow FLOWERING SEASON(S): Autumn FRUITING SEASON(S): Winter 18) Euonymus japonicus ‘Ovatus Aureus’ COMMON NAME(S): Spindle ‘Ovatus Aureus’ HARDINESS RATING: H5 FOLIAGE TYPE: Evergreen FOLIAGE: Green and yellow FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer 19) Ilex aquifolium ‘Argentea Marginata’ COMMON NAME(S): Silver-Margined Holly HARDINESS RATING: H6 FOLIAGE TYPE: Evergreen FOLIAGE: Green, cream and pink FLOWERING SEASON(S): Spring FRUITING SEASON(S): Autumn / Winter 20) Viburnum tinus COMMON NAME(S): Laurustinus HARDINESS RATING: H4 FOLIAGE TYPE: Deciduous FOLIAGE: Green and yellow FLOWERING SEASON(S): Winter / Spring FRUITING SEASON(S): Autumn / Winter Small Variegated Shrubs Smaller shrubs are also important in filling in mixed borders and filling in under-storey planting below and between trees and larger shrubs. There is a huge range of different options of this type too. One of the most popular variegated shrubs is Euonymous fortuneii and its varieties, such as ‘Emerald Gaiety’ and ‘Silver Queen’, are immensely popular. These are not only popular as stand-alone plants but also for use in formal hedges, or mixed hedgerows. Some small shrubs are not only attractive but also serve other functions. Many on this list are great for garden wildlife and some shrubby herbs also provide edible yields. Some great options to consider include: 21) Cistus x hybridus ‘Gold Prize’ COMMON NAME(S): Rock Rose ‘Gold Prize’ HARDINESS RATING: H4 FOLIAGE TYPE: Evergreen FOLIAGE: Green, cream and yellow FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer 22) Caryopteris x clandonensis ‘White Surprise’ COMMON NAME(S): Bluebeard ‘White Surprise’ HARDINESS RATING: H4 FOLIAGE TYPE: Deciduous FOLIAGE: Green, cream and silver FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer FRUITING SEASON(S): Autumn 23) Euonymus fortuneii COMMON NAME(S): Winter Creeper HARDINESS RATING: H5 FOLIAGE TYPE: Evergreen FOLIAGE: Green and yellow FLOWERING SEASON(S): Spring 24) Fuchsia magellanica var. gracilis COMMON NAME(S): Hardy Fuchsia HARDINESS RATING: H4 FOLIAGE TYPE: Deciduous FOLIAGE: Green and yellow FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer / Autumn FRUITING SEASON(S): Autumn 25) Hebe × franciscana ‘Variegata’ COMMON NAME(S): Hebe ‘Silver Queen’ HARDINESS RATING: H3 FOLIAGE TYPE: Evergreen FOLIAGE: Green, white, cream and yellow FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer / Autumn 26) Leucothoe fontanesiana ‘Rainbow’ COMMON NAME(S): Dog Hobble ‘Rainbow’ HARDINESS RATING: H6 FOLIAGE TYPE: Evergreen FOLIAGE: Green, pink and cream FLOWERING SEASON(S): Spring 27) Pieris japonica COMMON NAME(S): Lily-Of-The-Valley Bush HARDINESS RATING: H5 FOLIAGE TYPE: Evergreen FOLIAGE: Red, green and cream FLOWERING SEASON(S): Spring 28) Salvia officinalis ‘Tricolor’ COMMON NAME(S): Sage ‘Tricolor’ HARDINESS RATING: H5 FOLIAGE TYPE: Evergreen FOLIAGE: Green, cream, silver and purple FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer 29) Thymus citriodorus (Pers.) Schreb. ‘Aureus’ COMMON NAME(S): Golden Large Thyme HARDINESS RATING: H5 FOLIAGE TYPE: Evergreen FOLIAGE: Green and yellow FLOWERING SEASON(S): Spring / Summer 30) Vinca major ‘Variegata’ COMMON NAME(S): Variegated Greater Periwinkle HARDINESS RATING: H6 FOLIAGE TYPE: Evergreen FOLIAGE: Green and cream FLOWERING SEASON(S): Spring / Summer / Autumn Variegated Climbers I particularly enjoy adding plants with variegated foliage against walls or fences, where they can bring interest to what could be rather boring features. Hedera helix and other ivies can be excellent choices for shaded, north-facing walls. They not only look good, but also provide a spot for nesting birds, and benefit other wildlife in your garden. Some of the best and most interesting climbers with variegated foliage to consider are: 31) Actinidia kolomikta COMMON NAME(S): Kolomikta HARDINESS RATING: H5 FOLIAGE TYPE: Deciduous FOLIAGE: Green and pink FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer FRUITING SEASON(S): Autumn 32) Ampelopsis brevipedunculata ‘Elegans’ COMMON NAME(S): Variegated Porcelain Berry HARDINESS RATING: H6 FOLIAGE TYPE: Deciduous FOLIAGE: Green, pink and white FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer FRUITING SEASON(S): Summer / Autumn 33) Hedera colchica ‘Dentata Variegata’ COMMON NAME(S): Ivy ‘Dentata Variegata’ HARDINESS RATING: H5 FOLIAGE TYPE: Evergreen FOLIAGE: Green and cream FLOWERING SEASON(S): Autumn FRUITING SEASON(S): Winter 34) Hedera helix ‘Glacier’ COMMON NAME(S): Ivy ‘Glacier’ HARDINESS RATING: H6 FOLIAGE TYPE: Evergreen FOLIAGE: Green and cream 35) Hydrangea anomala subsp. petiolaris COMMON NAME(S): Climbing Hydrangea HARDINESS RATING: H5 FOLIAGE TYPE: Deciduous FOLIAGE: Green and yellow FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer 36) Jasminum nudiflorum COMMON NAME(S): Winter Jasmine HARDINESS RATING: H5 FOLIAGE TYPE: Deciduous FOLIAGE: Green and cream FLOWERING SEASON(S): Winter / Spring 37) Jasminum officinale ‘Argenteovariegatum’ COMMON NAME(S): Jasmine ‘Argenteovariegatum’ HARDINESS RATING: H5 FOLIAGE TYPE: Deciduous FOLIAGE: Green, silver and cream FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer / Autumn FRUITING SEASON(S): Autumn 38) Lonicera × italica Harlequin (‘Sherlite’) COMMON NAME(S): Honeysuckle HARDINESS RATING: H5 FOLIAGE TYPE: Deciduous FOLIAGE: Green, blue and cream FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer 39) Lonicera japonica ‘Mint Crisp’ COMMON NAME(S): Japanese honeysuckle ‘Mint Crisp’ HARDINESS RATING: H5 FOLIAGE TYPE: Semi-Evergreen FOLIAGE: Green, cream and pink FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer FRUITING SEASON(S): Autumn 40) Trachelospermum jasminoides ‘Tricolor’ COMMON NAME(S): Star Jasmine ‘Tricolor’ HARDINESS RATING: H4 FOLIAGE TYPE: Evergreen FOLIAGE: Green, pink, cream, white and red FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer Herbaceous Plants With Variegation Once you have placed your main trees and shrubs and considered climbers for walls or fences or other structures, you will of course turn your attention to the lower layers of planting, and consider the huge variety of herbaceous plants. Non-woody plants also have an astounding number of options with beautiful variegated foliage. Here are just a few of the interesting and attractive options that you could consider: 41) Astrantia major ‘Sunningdale Variegated’ COMMON NAME(S): Masterwort ‘Sunningdale Variegated’ HARDINESS RATING: H7 FOLIAGE TYPE: Deciduous FOLIAGE: Green and cream FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer 42) Aubrieta ‘Purple Cascade’ COMMON NAME(S): Aubrieta ‘Purple Cascade’ HARDINESS RATING: H6 FOLIAGE TYPE: Evergreen FOLIAGE: Green and silver FLOWERING SEASON(S): Spring / Summer 43) Brunnera macrophylla ‘Hadspen Cream’ COMMON NAME(S): Siberian bugloss ‘Hadspen Cream’ HARDINESS RATING: H6 FOLIAGE TYPE: Deciduous FOLIAGE: Green and cream FLOWERING SEASON(S): Spring 44) Geranium macrorrhizum ‘Variegatum’ COMMON NAME(S): Variegated Cranesbill HARDINESS RATING: H7 FOLIAGE TYPE: Semi-Evergreen FOLIAGE: Green and cream FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer 45) Hosta ‘Cathedral Windows’ COMMON NAME(S): Plantain Lily ‘Cathedral Windows’ HARDINESS RATING: H7 FOLIAGE TYPE: Deciduous FOLIAGE: Green and yellow 46) Iris japonica ‘Variegata’ COMMON NAME(S): Variegated Fringed Iris HARDINESS RATING: H4 FOLIAGE TYPE: Evergreen FOLIAGE: Green and white FLOWERING SEASON(S): Spring 47) Iris laevigata ‘Variegata’ COMMON NAME(S): Variegated Japanese Iris HARDINESS RATING: H6 FOLIAGE TYPE: Deciduous FOLIAGE: Green and white FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer 48) Mentha suaveolens ‘Variegata’ COMMON NAME(S): Pineapple Mint HARDINESS RATING: H5 FOLIAGE TYPE: Deciduous FOLIAGE: Green and cream FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer 49) Nepeta ‘Six Hills Gold’ COMMON NAME(S): Catmint ‘Six Hills Gold’ HARDINESS RATING: H6 FOLIAGE TYPE: Deciduous FOLIAGE: Green, silver and yellow FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer / Autumn 50) Phlox paniculata ‘Becky Towe’ COMMON NAME(S): Perennial Phlox ‘Becky Towe’ HARDINESS RATING: H7 FOLIAGE TYPE: Deciduous FOLIAGE: Green and cream FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer If you do decide to place variegated plants in your garden, make sure to research the environmental requirements and the growing needs of the plants you are considering. Remember, it’s important that you choose the right plant for the right place. Light levels can be particularly important, since often, variegation will diminish or disappear if the appropriate levels of light are not available. Variegation can be lost, and leaves will no longer have the same appearance. This loss of variegation is called ‘reversion’.1 If it occurs, make sure the plant is getting the light level it needs and prune out the reverted section as soon as you notice that it has appeared. If you do this, and the plant is in a suitable spot, it should retain its pleasing appearance. References 1. Variegation. (n.d.). University of Washington Botanic Gardens. Retrieved March 27, 2023, from https://depts.washington.edu/hortlib/keyword/variegation/
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Talking Divine Daffodil Varieties With Anne Wright And Janet Hickman
IN THIS GUIDE Expert-Chosen Varieties 1) ‘Scilly White’ 2) Tahiti Daffodil 3) New Baby Daffodil 4) ‘Pheasant’s Eye’ 5) Sorbet Daffodil 6) ‘Hillstar’ 7) ‘Beautiful Eyes’ 8) ‘Le Torch’ 9) ‘Reggae’ 10) ‘Mission Bells’ References Though most daffodils are yellow trumpet-shaped blooms just as they are usually envisaged, this flower is rather more diverse in its shapes, sizes and colours than commonly known or conceived. Some varieties have pronounced, protruding trumpets while others have dainty cups. Narcissus papyraceus (Paperwhite Daffodils) ‘Paperwhite’ daffodils reach heights of 80cm; compare that to N. asturiensis which typically stands at 10cm – a quarter of the length of ‘Paperwhite’ leaves! N. asturiensis (Pygmy Daffodils) And talking of ‘Paperwhite’ – daffodils grace gardens as well as meadows in hues of yellow, orange, cream, pink, and in pure white. Besides that, some cultivars are bi-coloured, such as white and yellow, white and orange, and yellow and orange. Adding further diversity to the flower, even their orientation varies by species and cultivar. N. tazetta (Bunch-Flowered Daffodil) The flowers of different daffodil species and cultivars are variously pendent, horizontal, or erect. There are 74 species of Narcissus and, as for hybrids and cultivars, many thousands have been registered.1 Narcissus ‘Pink Wonder‘ The Royal Horticultural Society arranges cultivars into 13 divisions with about half of them defined by their respective coronas with Division 1 being Trumpet Daffodils.2 Daffodils inter-breed and hybridise relatively freely; moreover, horticulturists come up with numerous new cultivars every year. ‘King Alfred’ Expert-Chosen Varieties We asked Anne Wright from Dryad Nursery and Janet Hickman from the American Daffodil Society to share a few of their favourite varieties with us. “I have too many favourites,” says Janet. “I like the Historic daffodils, which are those that are registered with the RHS or known to be in gardens before 1940, for their stories, their delicacy and their hardiness.” “Some examples would be ‘Queen of Spain’ and ‘Thalia’.” ‘Thalia’ “I also love miniatures like ‘Itsy Bitsy Splitsy’ and ‘Hawera’ for their close-up beauty and their ease of growing in pots and small spaces. “My favourite daffodil to grow for fragrance is the double-flowered ‘Erlicheer’. I appreciate ‘Ice Follies’ for its early spring appearance and the poet daffodils like ‘Molly Malone Cook’ for extending the season longer. “I’m intrigued by recently-developed green daffodils like ‘Mesa Verde’. “Standard show-winning daffodils like ‘Rapture’, ‘Sweetness’, ‘Fragrant Rose’ and ‘New Penny’ top many people’s lists of favourites, but each new catalogue or sales list tempts with new favourites like the delicate white and pink ‘Dainty Tale’.” ‘Rapture’ So, what are some of Anne’s favourites? For perennials that add pleasing colour to the garden, she recommends the varieties: ‘Jenny’ ‘Lemon Silk’ ‘Lucifer’ ‘Jenny’ For cut flowers, Anne’s top picks are: ‘Little Dryad’ ‘Giselle’ ‘Trumpet Voluntary’ “Catalogues of Narcissus are like trying to choose in a sweet shop when it all looks delicious,” shares Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly. “Over the years, I have narrowed down my preference to early flowering miniature cultivars largely because I grow daffodils in pots for early seasonal display and because wind can tend to flatten taller cultivars (usually when they are just looking their best). “Narrow down your selections by thinking about how and where you will grow them and when you want them to flower.” In terms of our favourites, it is hardly possible to cover them all so we go beyond the standard-bearer, ‘Dutchmaster’ or ‘King Alfred’, and list some that are more unusual. Our choices in the following top ten list are not as widespread or as well-known as ‘Dutchmasters’ yet they are super-attractive, each one in its own way. These favourites are selected without regard to range or diversity and solely on the basis of artistic appeal. In no particular order: 1) ‘Scilly White’ The solid white tepals and solid orange cup of this horizontally-oriented variety stare you in the face and projects an atypically bold and brassy air. 2) Tahiti Daffodil This very symmetrical double flower has wafer-ish tepals but the bewitching feature is that both the tepals and cup are a buttery hue with central flecks and splashes of orange. 3) New Baby Daffodil Just like the name says, this one’s an innocent-looking ‘baby;’ a miniature variety with a bright yellow cup while the tepals are white with yellow bordering. 4) ‘Pheasant’s Eye’ This arresting variety has snowy white tepals set off by a multi-hued corona that is greenish-yellow showing distinct ‘eyes’ and with red fringeing. 5) Sorbet Daffodil Framed by rounded, creamy white tepals, this lovely variety has a whorl-like split corona with each one having a unique set of yellow, orange, and vermilion ‘brush strokes’. 6) ‘Hillstar’ This work of art looks like it is hand-painted, for the well-shaped cup is yellow turning into white but the tepals are white at the centre turning yellow at their halfway point. 7) ‘Beautiful Eyes’ ‘Beautiful’ is the key word for this bloom which usually has off-white ivory tepals and a small cup coloured deep orange and a pronounced eye. 8) ‘Le Torch’ This stunning double flower is rose-like in its complexity and has both tepals and corona of an intense yellow hue splotched with equally deep orange. 9) ‘Reggae’ Belying its name, this is a gentle and sedate variety with flared white tepals surrounding a pronounced corona with a pastel, nearly faded, salmon-pink shade. 10) ‘Mission Bells’ Pure white with a touch of yellow at the centre, and so superbly formed with all its elements in perfect proportion and balance that it is as if sculpted to adorn Paradise. References 1. Narcissus. (n.d.). Plants of the World Online. Retrieved May 22, 2023, from https://powo.science.kew.org/taxon/urn:lsid:ipni.org:names:1558-1#children 2. Horticultural classification of daffodils. (n.d.). Royal Horticultural Society. Retrieved March 14, 2023, from https://www.rhs.org.uk/plants/pdfs/plant-registration-forms/daffhortclass.pdf
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It's Easy To Grow Pansies From Seed Or Plug Plants - They're Great For Year-Round Growing
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Varieties Growing From Seed When To Plant Where To Plant Pansy Care Common Issues & Pests References Pansies are one of our best-known and best-loved garden plants. Learn more about these versatile flowers and how to grow them in this simple guide, where we’ll share how to select pansies for your garden and explore some of the varieties that you might consider. We’ll delve into how to grow pansies from seed, how, when and where to plant them, and how to care for them successfully over time. By the end of this guide, you should be able to see just how easy and straightforward it is to grow these cheerful flowers where you live, and potentially enjoy blooming pansies in your garden all year round. Overview Botanical Name Viola × wittrockiana Common Name(s) Garden Pansy Plant Type Annual (sometimes perennial) Native Area Cultivated Hardiness Rating H5 Foliage Evergreen Flowers Many-hued flowers When To Plant February, March, April, May, June, July When To Prune During Flowering The garden pansy is a flowering plant cultivated from species in the Melanium section of the Viola genus. Most frequently, they are hybrids derived from Viola tricolor, a wildflower which is also known as heartsease, which is native to Europe and western Asia.1 Although sometimes confused, pansies are Viola of or derived from the Melanium section, while violets such as the common dog-violet (Viola riviniana) are in the Viola section.2 The name pansy comes from the French word pensée, which means ‘to think’.3 Resulting from the work of Lord Gambier’s gardener William Thompson who discovered the cross between Viola species named V. x wittrockiana in 1839, many new hybrids emerged and by 1850, there were around 400 different named varieties for gardeners to choose from.4 Many more hybrids have since been developed, and now gardeners can choose from numerous options with flowers in a huge range of colours and shades. They are among the most popular bedding plants here in the UK, both for the summer and the winter months. Interestingly, pansies are not only ornamental, as the flowers can also be used as a garnish or added to salads. This edible flower can therefore be a useful as well as a beautiful addition to your garden and could be considered as an option for mixed polycultures and companion planting in your kitchen garden.5 Another reason to grow pansies around other edible crops is that they are great for bringing bees and other pollinators into your garden. These flowers can be a useful nectar source for pollinators, especially in winter and early spring when few other sources are available. Pansies can make a good ground cover plant, and are often usefully planted along the front of beds or borders, around the edges of other planting schemes, or as a low-growing option around the edges of a container. A great way to use pansies is to plant them in containers after tulips have been planted in the late autumn; while they will produce few flowers over the winter, from the early spring they produce a great display underneath the tulips which grow through them and flower at the same time. Varieties Some Pansies to grow include: ‘Adonis’ ‘Beacon Caramel’ ‘Bingo’ ‘Bolero’ ‘Cat’s Whiskers’ ‘Cool Wave’ ‘Freefall’ Joker Series (AGM) ‘Mystique Blue Halo’ ‘Tiger Eyes’ ‘Ultima Morpho’ Universal Series ‘Adonis’ Of course, these are just some of the many options which are now available to gardeners, and which can be picked up fairly easily, sourced from garden centres, plant nurseries, or online vendors. As well as considering specific cultivars or series, gardeners also have a range of common pansy mixes to choose from, so you are sure to be able to find pansies which fit in with the style of your garden, and help you achieve the specific look that you are going for. Growing From Seed Pansies are frequently purchased as plug plants for bedding, but it is a more sustainable and eco-friendly option to avoid plastic pots and peat compost-filled containers and grow from seed. Pansies are relatively easy to grow from seed, so this can be a great project even for new gardeners, or for kids. Seeds should be sown under cover between February and April for summer blooms, and between May and July for autumn and winter blooms. Sow the seeds on top of a tray filled with seed compost and cover lightly with compost or vermiculite, water by standing in a tray of water and leave them in a warm place out of direct sunlight until germination has taken place, ensuring the compost doesn’t dry out. Transfer the seedlings into their own small pots or plugs once they have two sets of true leaves, and harden them off before planting them out into the garden. When To Plant Pansies for summer bedding should be planted out in late spring or early summer and pansies for autumn and winter displays should be planted out in late summer or early autumn. This will give the young plants time to become established before the winter begins in earnest. Where To Plant Typically, pansies should be placed around 15cm apart if they are bush types and around 20-25cm apart if they are trailing types. One of the great things about these versatile garden flowers is that they can fit into a wide range of different garden types and garden styles. They can both perform well and look great in many different settings. They can be placed in beds or borders, and often make good companions for a range of spring and early summer flowering bulbs, as well as other bedding plants or perennial plantings. Pansies are often also an excellent choice for a range of different containers and hanging baskets, or even a vertical garden scheme which helps you make the most of your space. Pansy Care Pansies are a great choice for more inexperienced gardeners, but it is important to bear a few things in mind to grow them successfully and to keep them in tip-top health. Here are some care guidelines to consider: Light Pansies need a location in full sun or partial shade and will flower best in a relatively sunny position. Soil They prefer a moist yet free draining clay, loam or sandy soil or growing medium. A general peat-free multi-purpose compost or equivalent will work well when growing pansies in containers. These plants are relatively unfussy about soil pH. Water Pansies should be watered during dry spells and particular attention should be paid to watering plants in containers, which will dry out more quickly. Summer pansies will typically require more water than winter-growing ones. Make sure that you water the soil, rather than spraying water onto the foliage and flowers, since keeping them dry can help reduce the incidence of fungal diseases. Temperature & Humidity Pansy seeds will germinate best at temperatures between around 18-24°C. When in growth, pansies can easily cope with summer temperatures in the UK, and can survive the winter where temperatures do not fall below -10°C. Many pansies are typically hardy throughout most of the UK, even during severe winters. However, in the coldest and most exposed locations, there may be some risk of frost damage and foliage can suffer especially when growing in pots. Fertilising For best results, pansies grown in containers should be fed every couple of weeks during the growing season (spring to autumn) with a balanced organic liquid feed. Deadheading Removing the dead and faded flowers from pansies will encourage the plants to put their energy into new flower creation. This is easily done by pinching out old flowers between thumb and forefinger – during summer this can be a daily task! Mulching Mulching around the base of the plants with organic matter can help to ensure good growth and flowering, and retain moisture in the soil or growing medium. Common Issues & Pests Pansies are often relatively trouble-free but can be bothered by fungal diseases. Often, spots and blemishes on the leaves are a sign that fungal disease has taken hold. Fungal issues can also more rarely affect the stems and the centre of the plant can rot in more extreme cases. Leaf spot, downy mildew and powdery mildew are just some of the fungal problems these plants can experience. Fungal issues can often be prevented by paying close attention to watering and by making sure that there is good airflow around plants and that they are not overcrowded. If you spot signs of disease, remove all the infected material as quickly as possible. Do not grow pansies in the same spot the following year as the fungal spores can remain in the soil or growing medium. Another common issue with pansies, especially when newly planted, is slugs. Organic pest management means taking steps to increase the population of predators in your garden which will help to keep the slug population down. Physical barriers, such as copper tape around pots or sheep’s wool, may be required to prevent slug damage where these pests are particularly prevalent, and if there are lots of slugs, using a beer trap or similar may be necessary. Aphids and other sap suckers can also be an issue. By avoiding the use of pesticides, predatory insects like ladybirds and lacewings will naturally develop in your garden and keep down the number of these pests. References 1. Viola tricolor. (n.d.-b). North Carolina Extension Gardener Plant Toolbox. Retrieved March 22, 2023, from https://plants.ces.ncsu.edu/plants/viola-tricolor/ 2. Viola vs. Pansy: What’s the Difference? (2020, September 3). Tates of Sussex: Garden Centres. Retrieved March 22, 2023, from https://www.tatesofsussex.co.uk/news/home/viola-vs-pansy-whats-the-difference/ 3. Definition of pansy. (n.d.). In Merriam-Webster Dictionary. Retrieved March 22, 2023, from https://www.merriam-webster.com/dictionary/pansy 4. Pansy. (n.d.). Aggie Horticulture. Retrieved August 14, 2023, from https://aggie-hort.tamu.edu/archives/parsons/flowers/pansies.html 5. Pansy Edible Flowers. (n.d.). Nurtured in Norfolk. Retrieved March 22, 2023, from https://nurturedinnorfolk.co.uk/product/pansy-edible-flowers/
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