Growing
Hebes Are Usually Short Lived - Prepare A Propagation Schedule For Replacement Shrubs
IN THIS GUIDE When To Propagate Hebe 1) Take The Cuttings 2) Plant Them Up 3) Grow The Cuttings On Hebes are a group of evergreen shrubs that are sun-loving and originate from the Southern hemisphere. With white, pink or purple flowers that open mainly in summer, some even have ornamental foliage as well. Hebes are always a popular shrub but sadly are usually short-lived. “Hebes rarely exceed more than ten years, so make sure that you have a plan to evolve your planting or a propagation schedule to ensure that you have replacement shrubs that are sufficiently large to replant when the time comes,” suggests Horticulturist Colin Skelly. However, hebes can easily be propagated by taking cuttings from healthy specimens in late summer to produce identical new plants, either to replace old stock or to give away. You can propagate hebe shrubs from semi-ripe or softwood cuttings by following these steps: Take some cuttings from the shrub. Plant up the cuttings. Grow the cuttings on, into garden-ready plants. This process is explained in more depth below. Difficulty Medium Equipment Required Secateurs, plastic bag, pot, cuttings compost mix When To Take Cuttings July, August, September When To Propagate Hebe It is best to take hebe cuttings from healthy and vigorous plants in late summer. Here in the United Kingdom, the ideal time to take hebe cuttings is from July until September. If the soil is dry, it is recommended to water the plant thoroughly the day before taking cuttings to hydrate it fully, which will give the cuttings the best chance of taking. 1) Take The Cuttings Hebe cuttings are best taken early in the morning, before the midday sun has a chance to dry the shrub’s foliage out. To select the best cutting material, choose a healthy and strong parent plant that is free from any disease or pests and is not too leggy. Using a clean and sharp pair of secateurs, remove some (ideally non-flowering) shoots of new growth approximately 10-15cm in length and immediately place them in a plastic bag to reduce the chance of them drying out. 2) Plant Them Up Once ready to pot up the freshly removed shoots, make a small cut at the base of each cutting, just below a node of leaf and remove the growing tip and all but the highest 3-4 leaves. Fill a pot with a free-draining compost mix or blend of peat-free multi-purpose compost with added grit – and insert the cuttings around the edge of the pot so their leaves are just above the soil. Water the cuttings and place the pot in an unheated greenhouse or cold frame, in indirect light and cover with a clear plastic bag. Keep the soil moist, but not wet and periodically remove the covering bag to lower the moisture levels. Check the cutting’s progress regularly and if any cuttings appear to die or rot, remove them swiftly. 3) Grow The Cuttings On Once the cuttings have taken and developed new roots, which may take a few weeks, they are ready to be potted on individually. Carefully separate the cuttings and their roots and pot on separately into 9cm pots using peat-free multi-purpose compost. Plant the cuttings at the same depth they were previously planted at and grow them undercover over the winter months. The soil mustn’t be allowed to dry out, but it is important to avoid overwatering as this can lead to the roots rotting. Once the over-wintered hebes have outgrown their pots, they can be potted on into larger pots or planted out later in the year once large enough, but only once all risk of frost has passed and when they have been gradually hardened off first. The young hebes are best planted out in full sun and in well-drained soil and may even flower later in the year.
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Optimise The Lifespan Of Your Hebe With Regular Trimming: 4 Steps To Follow
IN THIS GUIDE When To Prune Hebe 1) Deadhead Spent Flowers 2) Prune In Late Summer 3) Prune In Spring 4) Hard Prune Worn Hebe Shrubs Hebes are evergreen shrubs commonly grown for their visual appeal, with stunning purple, pink or white flowers that bloom from spring until autumn. There are several benefits to pruning hebes, including keeping the shrubs to an attractive shape, removing any spent and untidy flowers and preventing them from becoming leggy. “Hebes are generally quite tidy shrubs that require little maintenance,” explains Horticultural Consultant Colin Skelly. “However, I like to put in a few pruning sessions during the year to keep them looking tight in growth. I have found that this also optimises life span.” Pruning hebes is fairly simple if you follow a simple process for trimming the plant: Deadhead any spent flowers once faded. Prune hebe shrubs lightly in late summer, to help keep their shape and remove any dead or damaged wood. Prune again in the spring back to healthy, new growth. Hard prune hebe shrubs that look worn and leggy to attempt rejuvenation. This process is explained in more depth below. Difficulty Easy Equipment Required Gloves, secateurs, shears When To Prune August, September, October, March, April When To Prune Hebe Hebe shrubs generally flower in summer, although some varieties can bloom earlier in spring. Here in the UK, hebes are best pruned in late summer once the flowers fade and if necessary, again in spring after a cold winter. Charlie Bewley from Hic Bibi Hebe Nursery in Chorley, recommends pruning back after flowering, making sure not to leave it too late in the season, as this can cause stress to your hebe shrubs. 1) Deadhead Spent Flowers If the weather is mild, hebes can bloom for a long season and from as early as April onwards. Once faded, the flowers may begin to look untidy and can be deadheaded with a pair of secateurs, which will encourage further blooms and extend the flowering period. 2) Prune In Late Summer Hebe shrubs are relatively slow growing and generally require little pruning, apart from keeping them to shape and removing any dead or damaged wood. Hebe shrubs are best pruned in late summer once the flowering period comes to an end and when the shrubs can be cut back to shape using a clean and sharp pair of shears or secateurs. “Prune regularly and often, rather than all at once, as this can cause stress,” advises Charlie. As Charlie states, Hebe shrubs do not respond well to being hard pruned and do not tend to regrow if cut back into old wood, so a light prune is all that is required. At the end of summer up to a maximum of one-third of the foliage can be pruned back to a bud or leaf, in order to keep the hebe to a compact and pleasing shape. 3) Prune In Spring Hebes are hardy shrubs and are rated H4 for hardiness, and will usually tolerate winter temperatures as low as -5°C to -10°C. However, hebes can struggle in extended low temperatures and during a generally cold and wet winter, especially if the soil becomes saturated, leading to some dieback of branches. In spring, as the temperatures rise, it is advisable to check hebes for any dead or broken branches and stems and to remove them back to a healthy-looking bud. Hebe shrubs prefer moist, but well-drained soil and if grown on compacted or heavy soil that can become waterlogged it is advisable to incorporate some organic matter into the soil to improve the drainage. 4) Hard Prune Worn Hebe Shrubs Over time, hebes can become leggy, misshaped and look as though they have passed their best. Although general advice is not to hard prune hebes, if you are going to replace it anyway it can be worth trying to see if it regrows. The best time to rejuvenate a hebe is in March, just before new buds begin to form. To hard prune, the stems can be cut back to a node about 30cm above the soil using a sharp and clean pair of secateurs. However, due to the high chance of the shrub not re-growing, it is advisable to take some cuttings in the previous summer to replace it with. For a less drastic and gentler approach, one-third of the stems can be cut back hard each year, leaving the rest of the plant to carry on. “To prevent stress, cut back half of the shrub in the spring or summer,” recommends Charlie. “Wait for it to regrow slightly and then do the other half.”
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Container Growing Hebe Can Be Delightful - But Good Drainage Is Paramount
IN THIS GUIDE Can You Grow Hebe In Pots? Choosing Hebe Containers Sourcing Compost Potting Up Hebes Ongoing Potted Hebe Care References Hebes are a genus of evergreen shrubs that flower during the warmer months. Hebes originate from New Zealand and other parts of the southern hemisphere and are well suited to container growing in the UK climate.1 Generally grown for their white, pink or purple blooms, some varieties have attractive foliage and being evergreen, can provide some ornamental winter interest and structure to the garden. Can You Grow Hebe In Pots? Hebe specialist Charlie Bewley from Hic Bibi Wholesale Nurseries says that as long as hebes are grown in free-draining soil in a sheltered position with lots of sun, they can be grown in pots. Hebes are available in a wide array of sizes, from small dwarf shrubs that are ideal for growing in a container or pot to larger varieties, that are more suitable for the back of a bed or a border. “Smaller leaf varieties tend to be hardier,” Charlie explains. Choosing Hebe Containers When choosing a container to grow hebes in, it is paramount that large drainage holes are present as they prefer moist, but well-drained soil and struggle if grown in wet or waterlogged soil. When it comes to the size of the container, I would advise you to choose a pot that is a minimum 30cm diameter to make sure that it will be large enough to accommodate the plant’s mature size and root system accordingly. Containers are now made from many different materials and will not have much of a bearing on a hebes growth. However, it can be advisable to choose a material that would not be damaged by being left out over the winter. Sourcing Compost Hebes require a free draining soil to avoid their roots becoming too wet, especially during the colder months. When choosing soil for planting out hebes in containers, you should use either a peat-free multi-purpose compost or a loam-based mix with plenty of horticultural grit added to improve the drainage. Potting Up Hebes When potting up a hebe, a thin layer of gravel can be added to the bottom of the container to help with drainage, before half filling with your chosen compost or soil. Once the container is half filled with compost, place the plant at the same depth it was previously planted at and backfill with soil, gently firming in as you go. Water well on planting to help the soil settle and to eliminate any air gaps around the roots. Pots and containers can be placed upon feet, which will raise your shrub above the ground and allow any excess water to drain away freely. How Many Can You Plant Per Pot? Hebes tend to be grown individually in pots, as not only can they grow quite large, but for aesthetic reasons as well. However, some of the smallest dwarf varieties can be planted together, but only in a large container or long trough where they will have enough room to grow and not crowd each other out. Ongoing Potted Hebe Care Watering Correct watering of Hebes is a key part of their care, especially as they are getting established and prefer to be grown in a moist soil. They will struggle if overwatered or allowed to dry out completely. When it comes to watering hebes in containers during the growing season, I would recommend you wait until the top 3-5cm of soil has dried out before watering again. “It is essential that Hebes have a large enough pot to allow the compost to retain moisture during the height of summer,” says Colin Skelly, a Horticultural Consultant. “During hot spells, check the soil moisture daily. A drip irrigation system, ideally with a moisture sensor, makes an efficient option and a great benefit if you plan to be away.” Be aware that any pot-grown hebes will require more frequent watering compared to those grown directly in the ground. In winter, hebes do not require as much moisture, as wet and cold soil can lead to their roots rotting. As the temperatures drop, watering can be reduced and containers moved to the shelter of a wall or undercover to ride out the worst of the cold and wet weather. Fertilising Hebes are not overly hungry shrubs and grow best in a soil with poor to medium fertility. However, when grown in pots or containers, hebes can benefit from being given a balanced fertiliser in spring to replace any spent nutrients lost during the previous year. Charlie recommends fertilising pot-grown hebes with seaweed feed, as this can help keep fungal infections at bay. Pruning To promote a long flowering season, hebes should be regularly deadheaded as the flowers fade, which should encourage new blooms to form, depending on the variety. When it comes to pruning potted Hebes, they are relatively low maintenance and only require a light trim at the end of summer the flowering period comes to an end and again in spring to remove any dead or damaged wood after a harsh winter. Repotting Even though Hebes are not the longest-lived shrubs, they can last for several years and at times will need repotting and their soil refreshed. In general, Hebes need repotting every couple of years or if they have outgrown their current pot, whichever comes sooner. Overwintering During the growing season, most Hebe shrubs prefer to be situated in full sun to partial shade and out of any drying winds. A south- or west-facing sheltered spot is ideal. However, some Hebes are hardier than others and it is advisable to check the shrub’s hardiness rating, which will determine whether the plant requires some extra care over the coldest months. It is also good to note that any hebes grown in containers will be more exposed to the elements as they are less well insulated. A key benefit of growing hebes in containers is that come winter they can easily be moved or given a little more protection, as Charlie explains: “If there is a cold snap in winter, move your hebes into a greenhouse or cover with a horticultural fleece.” Alternatively, as the temperatures fall or if frost is forecast, containers can be either placed in a cold frame or moved under the lee of a wall or porch to protect them from the worst. References 1. Hebe and Related Genera. (n.d.). NZETC. Retrieved March 16, 2023, from https://nzetc.victoria.ac.nz/tm/scholarly/tei-DawFore-t1-body-d9-d4-d4.html
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Talking Favourite Hebe Varieties With Charlie Bewley From Hic Bibi Nurseries
IN THIS GUIDE 1) H. ‘Great Orme’ 2) H. rakaiensis 3) H. albicans 4) H. ‘Red Edge’ 5) H. canterburiensis ‘Carl Teschner’ 6) H. ‘Blue Gem’ 7) H. ‘Caledonia’ 8) H. ochracea ‘James Stirling’ 9) H. pinguifolia ‘Pagei’ 10) H. pinguifolia ‘Sutherlandii’ 11) H. ‘Wiri Cloud’ 12) H. ‘Wiri Charm’ 13) H. ‘Silver Dollar’ 14) H. ‘Emerald Gem’ 15) H. cupressoides ‘Boughton Dome’ 16) H. × andersonii 17) H. ‘Youngii’ 18) H. ‘Nicola’s Blush’ 19) H. buxifolia ‘Patty’s Purple’ 20) H. ‘Oratia Beauty’ 21) H. 'Garden Beauty Blue' 22) H. ‘Blue Clouds’ 23) H. recurva ‘Boughton Silver’ 24) H. ‘Rhubarb And Custard’ 25) H. ‘Frozen Flame’ References Hebe, or veronica as they are often known, are a genus of evergreen shrubs in the Plantaginaceae family that originate from New Zealand and other parts of the southern hemisphere.1 They are well-known for their ornamental flowers in either white, pink or purple and being evergreen, they provide colourful and structural interest in the winter. “Hebes are great structural plants, forming attractive mounds, many with variegated or coloured foliage,” shares Colin Skelly, Master Horticulturist. “I tend to use Hebes, particularly in pots, for these structural qualities, but the flowers in summer are also popular with pollinators and hum with life. “In mild regions, Hebes may even flower more than once depending on the vagaries of the weather.” Here are 25 popular types of hebes which can be grown in the UK, including some very special RHS AGM recipients: 1) H. ‘Great Orme’ HARDINESS RATING: H4 FLOWERS: White and pink FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer / Autumn SUNLIGHT: Full Sun / Partial Shade EXPOSURE: Exposed / Sheltered SOIL PREFERENCE: Any soil type; alkaline to neutral pH SIZE: 1-1.5m in height, 1-1.5m spread “Hebe ‘Great Orme’ is a favourite of mine,” says Charlie Bewley, the owner of Hic Bibi Wholesale Nurseries, with over 35 years of experience growing hebes. “It can grow up to 6-8ft, is very bushy and has long leaves. It can also make a great hedge, especially in seaside locations. It has striking, bright pink flowers.” With a rounded and compact habit, ‘Great Orme’ produces tapering flowers that fade to white from early summer onwards. With narrow evergreen foliage, this hebe provides great winter interest but needs some protection during the coldest months. Growing to an eventual height and spread of 1.2m, it is one of the larger hebe shrubs available and is suitable for the back of a bed or border, or even a large container. Awarded the RHS Award of Garden Merit. 2) H. rakaiensis HARDINESS RATING: H4 FLOWERS: White FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer SUNLIGHT: Full Sun / Partial Shade EXPOSURE: Exposed / Sheltered SOIL PREFERENCE: Any soil type; alkaline to neutral pH SIZE: 0.5-1m in height, 1-1.5m spread This well-known and popular hebe grows to a compact and round 1m in height and spread. With smaller leaves that are bright green, this hebe is well suited to growing in pots or containers. Producing white flowers that are loved by pollinators from early summer onwards, this shrub may need some winter protection, especially during the coldest months. 3) H. albicans HARDINESS RATING: H4 FLOWERS: White FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer SUNLIGHT: Full Sun / Partial Shade EXPOSURE: Sheltered SOIL PREFERENCE: Any soil type; alkaline to neutral pH SIZE: 0.1-0.5m in height, 0.5-1m spread A dwarf hebe, this shrub is ideal for container-growing or lining the edge of a path. Growing to a relatively small size with a mass of small dark green leaves, it can be used as a low informal hedge. This is a species distinguished by thick, somewhat rubbery, leaves that have a greyish blue-green colour. Pollinators love its small, oval-shaped, white blooms that open in early summer and contrast well against its darker foliage. Albicans will tolerate full sun or partial shade but they prefer a sheltered spot. This species has been awarded the RHS’s Award of Garden Merit. 4) H. ‘Red Edge’ HARDINESS RATING: H4 FLOWERS: White and purple FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer SUNLIGHT: Full Sun / Partial Shade EXPOSURE: Exposed / Sheltered SOIL PREFERENCE: Any soil type; alkaline to neutral pH SIZE: 0.1-0.5m in height, 0.1-0.5m spread Some hebe shrubs produce ornamental foliage as well as flowers. Hebe ‘Red Edge’ is one of those and forms a small mound of blue-green leaves that are tinged red come winter, providing some lovely winter interest for the garden. With short pale purple flowers that fade to white with time, this hebe is perfect for a pot as it will reach a final size of about 50cm in height and spread. Preferring a sheltered location, ‘Red Edge’ might need to be moved under cover to overwinter the worst of the weather and low temperatures. 5) H. canterburiensis ‘Carl Teschner’ HARDINESS RATING: H4 FLOWERS: White and blue FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer SUNLIGHT: Full Sun / Partial Shade EXPOSURE: Exposed / Sheltered SOIL PREFERENCE: Any soil type; alkaline to neutral pH SIZE: 0.1-0.5m in height, 0.1-0.5m spread Hebe ‘Carl Teschner’ is a dwarf and spreading shrub that is ideal for edging a path with or for growing in containers due to its small size. This hebe has small and dark green foliage, which come summer is adorned with a profusion of large purple blooms that fade to white with age. Rated H4 for hardiness, ‘Carl Teschner’ can tolerate winter temperatures as low as -5 to -10 °C with some protection. 6) H. ‘Blue Gem’ HARDINESS RATING: H4 FLOWERS: Purple FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer / Autumn SUNLIGHT: Full Sun / Partial Shade EXPOSURE: Sheltered SOIL PREFERENCE: Chalk, loam, sand; Any pH SIZE: 1-1.5m in height, 1-1.5m spread ‘Blue Gem’ is one of the larger and more vigorous hebes available and can grow to a final size of 1.5m in height, making it perfect for the back of a bed or a border. This hebe produces light green foliage in a loose and rounded form, interspersed with flowers in all shades of purple. As with most hebes, this shrub will grow well in full sun to partial shade on poor to moderately fertile soil in a sheltered spot. 7) H. ‘Caledonia’ HARDINESS RATING: H4 FLOWERS: Purple FLOWERING SEASON(S): Spring / Summer SUNLIGHT: Full Sun / Partial Shade EXPOSURE: Sheltered SOIL PREFERENCE: Any soil type; alkaline to neutral pH SIZE: 0.5-1m in height, 0.5-1m spread Hebe ‘Caledonia’ is another compact variety that will grow to a maximum of around 60cm in height and spread. Ideal for containers or the front of a border, this hebe produces small red foliage that turns dark green as they age, as well as small purple flowers that can bloom from spring until autumn with regular deadheading. RHS Award of Garden Merit (AGM). 8) H. ochracea ‘James Stirling’ HARDINESS RATING: H4 FLOWERS: White FLOWERING SEASON(S): Spring / Summer SUNLIGHT: Full Sun / Partial Shade EXPOSURE: Exposed / Sheltered SOIL PREFERENCE: Any soil type; alkaline to neutral pH SIZE: 0.1-0.5m in height, 0.1-0.5m spread For something a little different, this hebe produces almost golden foliage, not unlike a cypress and looks great all year round, especially in the winter. Neat and compact ‘James Stirling’ grows to a size of just over 50cm over time, although may remain smaller in certain conditions, and displays small white flowers during the summer months. A slightly tougher shrub that originates from New Zealand, this hebe will cope with an exposed aspect and can be grown in coastal gardens. 9) H. pinguifolia ‘Pagei’ HARDINESS RATING: H5 FLOWERS: White FLOWERING SEASON(S): Spring / Summer SUNLIGHT: Full Sun / Partial Shade EXPOSURE: Exposed / Sheltered SOIL PREFERENCE: Any soil type; alkaline to neutral pH SIZE: 0.1-0.5m in height, 0.5-1m spread This almost carpet-forming hebe stays low at a height of only 30cm, but can spread to up to 1m. Providing great ground cover, ‘Pagei’ produces tiny blue-green foliage on purple stems and white flowers in early summer. A fairly hardy shrub, ‘Pagei’ is rated H5, indicating that it can withstand temperatures as low as -10°C to -15°C in an exposed or sheltered spot, but as with all hebes, will struggle in heavy or compacted soil that is prone to becoming waterlogged. Being mat-forming, ‘Pagei’ is great for suppressing weeds and ideal for growing as a specimen shrub or when planted en masse. 10) H. pinguifolia ‘Sutherlandii’ HARDINESS RATING: H5 FLOWERS: White FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer SUNLIGHT: Full Sun / Partial Shade EXPOSURE: Exposed / Sheltered SOIL PREFERENCE: Any soil type; alkaline to neutral pH SIZE: 0.1-0.5m in height, 0.1-0.5m spread With foliage lighter and greener in colour than ‘Pagei’, Hebe ‘Sutherlandii’ has a slightly bushier and more compact habit. Another tough and hardy hebe, this shrub will reach a maximum height and spread of just under 50cm over time and is loved by pollinators when it is in flower during May and June. Ideal for container growing and being tolerant of salt, this variety is again great for a coastal garden and produces tiny white blooms that contrast well against its green leaves. 11) H. ‘Wiri Cloud’ HARDINESS RATING: H4 FLOWERS: Pink FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer SUNLIGHT: Full Sun / Partial Shade EXPOSURE: Sheltered SOIL PREFERENCE: Any soil type; alkaline to neutral pH SIZE: 0.1-0.5m in height, 0.1-0.5m spread Another compact hebe, ‘Wiri Cloud’ displays short racemes of pale pink flowers over the summer months on a compact mass of bright green foliage that reaches no more than 40cm in height. Covered with pollinators when in flower, the pale pink blooms can last for weeks if regularly deadheaded. One of the less hardy hebes available, it may need some winter protection, especially if grown in an exposed spot or in a frost pocket. 12) H. ‘Wiri Charm’ HARDINESS RATING: H4 FLOWERS: Purple and pink FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer SUNLIGHT: Full Sun / Partial Shade EXPOSURE: Sheltered SOIL PREFERENCE: Any soil type; alkaline to neutral pH SIZE: 0.5-1m in height, 1-1.5m spread A much larger hebe than the previous ‘Wiri Cloud’, ‘Wiri Charm’ can reach heights up to 1m and a spread of up to 1.5m. With vibrant bright pink-purple flowers that bloom from July until October and evergreen dark green glossy foliage, this hebe provides interest all year round. Tolerating either full sun or partial shade, ’Wiri Cloud’ requires a sheltered spot and may need some protection against the worst of the winter weather. 13) H. ‘Silver Dollar’ HARDINESS RATING: H3 FLOWERS: Pink FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer SUNLIGHT: Full Sun / Partial Shade EXPOSURE: Exposed / Sheltered SOIL PREFERENCE: Any soil type; alkaline to neutral pH SIZE: 0.1-0.5m in height, 0.1-0.5m spread For a hebe with stunning ornamental foliage, ‘Silver Dollar’ is definitely one to consider. With variegated silver-green foliage that turns a deep red come autumn and pale mauve flowers that fade to white in early summer, this hebe provides year-round interest. Remaining compact at a final size of approximately 60cm in height and spread, and with an upright and rounded form, it is a versatile shrub that grows equally well in a border or a container. As the least hardy of all the hebe varieties mentioned, it will need moving undercover or to be covered to protect it from the worst of the winter. 14) H. ‘Emerald Gem’ HARDINESS RATING: H4 FLOWERS: White FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer SUNLIGHT: Full Sun / Partial Shade EXPOSURE: Sheltered SOIL PREFERENCE: Any soil type; alkaline to neutral pH SIZE: 0.1-0.5m in height, 0.1-0.5m spread ‘Emerald Green’ has a wonderfully tidy habit, so much so that this 50cm semi-dwarf shrub always stays in a compact, round shape. The stiff, spire-like pointy leaves are an eye-pleasing shade of clear emerald green. Add to all this its ability to adapt to any soil and resist pests and diseases, and it’s easy to see why it was awarded the RHS’s Award of Garden Merit. 15) H. cupressoides ‘Boughton Dome’ HARDINESS RATING: H5 FLOWERS: Purple FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer SUNLIGHT: Full Sun / Partial Shade EXPOSURE: Sheltered SOIL PREFERENCE: Chalk, loam, sand; alkaline to neutral pH SIZE: 0.1-0.5m in height, 0.5-1m spread This species reminds one of a Bonsai conifer, as this 40-50cm variety also has a marvellous self-maintained habit, growing in a dome or teardrop shape that needs no maintenance. It bears no flowers and its needle-like leaves are of a bluish-slate-green hue. It is of obvious architectural interest and application. 16) H. × andersonii HARDINESS RATING: H4 FLOWERS: White and purple FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer / Autumn SUNLIGHT: Full Sun / Partial Shade EXPOSURE: Sheltered SOIL PREFERENCE: Any soil type; alkaline to neutral pH SIZE: 1.5-2.5m in height, 1.5-2.5m spread Hebe × andersonii is a giant among hebe, usually reaching over 2m in height, with long-lived plants going past 2.5 metres, and attaining a width to match. Though its foliage is of little interest, it provides stunning tubular sprays of a bright, rich purple hue. It has a decent flowering season, bears profuse blooms, and attracts butterflies and bees to boot. 17) H. ‘Youngii’ HARDINESS RATING: H4 FLOWERS: White and blue FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer SUNLIGHT: Full Sun / Partial Shade EXPOSURE: Sheltered SOIL PREFERENCE: Any soil type; alkaline to neutral pH SIZE: 0.1-0.5m in height, 0.1-0.5m spread This species is at the other extreme in height; this mat-forming dwarf reaches no more than 20cm tall. It has deep green shiny leaves, and it bears small flowers which boast four discrete petals. Their colour ranges from lavender to purple with the white throats providing a lovely counterpoint for this winner of the Award of Garden Merit. 18) H. ‘Nicola’s Blush’ HARDINESS RATING: H4 FLOWERS: White and pink FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer / Autumn SUNLIGHT: Full Sun / Partial Shade EXPOSURE: Sheltered SOIL PREFERENCE: Any soil type; alkaline to neutral pH SIZE: 0.5-1m in height, 0.5-1m spread This is a semi-dwarf that has a bushy, rounded habit and reaches 60-70cm in height and spread. Its grey-green leaves are lance-shaped but it is the inflorescences whose shape and colour are the point of interest. White but with a rouge-like ‘blush’ at the tip, these amusing flowers resemble bottlebrushes or hair-curlers. It’s another recipient of the Award of Garden Merit. 19) H. buxifolia ‘Patty’s Purple’ HARDINESS RATING: H4 FLOWERS: White and purple FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer / Autumn SUNLIGHT: Full Sun / Partial Shade EXPOSURE: Exposed / Sheltered SOIL PREFERENCE: Any soil type; alkaline to neutral pH SIZE: 0.5-1m in height, 0.5-1m spread ‘Patty’s Purple’ also has a bushy, mounding habit but otherwise is different. It grows up to 70-90cm centimetres in height and width. The ovate leaves are emerald green and the tapering, spiked inflorescences are brilliant purple fading to white at the base as the buds open. It’s all about colour with this cultivar, as even the stalks are a deep red. 20) H. ‘Oratia Beauty’ HARDINESS RATING: H4 FLOWERS: White and pink FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer SUNLIGHT: Full Sun / Partial Shade EXPOSURE: Exposed / Sheltered SOIL PREFERENCE: Any soil type; alkaline to neutral pH SIZE: 0.5-1m in height, 0.5-1m spread This shrub has similarly bi-coloured tapering and spiked inflorescences whose tips are a gentle pink. As the pink buds open, they fade to white at the base. The ovate leaves are glossy and have a rubbery look on this bushy cultivar that reaches up to 75cm in height. This variety is especially attractive to bees and butterflies, and it has been recognised with the Award of Garden Merit. 21) H. 'Garden Beauty Blue' HARDINESS RATING: H4 FLOWERS: Blue FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer SUNLIGHT: Full Sun / Partial Shade EXPOSURE: Sheltered SOIL PREFERENCE: Chalk, loam, sand; Any pH SIZE: 0.5-1m in height, 0.5-1m spread Garden Beauty Blue has a bushy, mounding habit that grows to just under 1m tall and wide. The name of the game here is colour saturation in both leaf and flower. The glossy leaves are a rich, deep green; the small flowers are an even deeper, richer shade of purple. Other attractions of this variety are its especially dense foliage and its great profusion of flowers. 22) H. ‘Blue Clouds’ HARDINESS RATING: H4 FLOWERS: Blue FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer / Autumn SUNLIGHT: Full Sun / Partial Shade EXPOSURE: Sheltered SOIL PREFERENCE: Any soil type; alkaline to neutral pH SIZE: 0.5-1m in height, 0.5-1m spread This cultivar is of a bushy habit and may attain a maximum height of 1m. Both the leaves and flowers are points of interest; the lance-shaped leaves are glossy and dull-green but they become clearly bluish-purplish in winter while the spike-like flowers vary from light blue to a rich purple. 23) H. recurva ‘Boughton Silver’ HARDINESS RATING: H4 FLOWERS: White FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer SUNLIGHT: Full Sun / Partial Shade EXPOSURE: Sheltered SOIL PREFERENCE: Any soil type; alkaline to neutral pH SIZE: 0.5-1m in height, 0.5-1m spread ‘Boughton Silver’ is silvery in both foliage and flower. The lanceolate leaves are blue-green with a distinct silvery-grey sheen while the inflorescences’ sprays are silvery-white, and attract bees and butterflies in droves. It grows to only about 60cm and has a bushy and spreading habit. 24) H. ‘Rhubarb And Custard’ HARDINESS RATING: H3 FLOWERS: Purple FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer SUNLIGHT: Full Sun / Partial Shade EXPOSURE: Sheltered SOIL PREFERENCE: Any soil type; alkaline to neutral pH SIZE: 0.5-1m in height, 0.5-1m spread ‘Rhubarb and Custard’ may have a precious name but it is an apt one. Though this cultivar bears small spikes of lavender-to-purple flowers in the mid-late summer, the focus is more on foliage. The thick oval leaves are variegated; they are deep green with blotches of magenta-pink and irregular bordering in custard-yellow. It is of a bushy, mounding habit. 25) H. ‘Frozen Flame’ HARDINESS RATING: H4 FLOWERS: Blue FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer SUNLIGHT: Full Sun / Partial Shade EXPOSURE: Sheltered SOIL PREFERENCE: Chalk, loam, sand; alkaline to neutral pH SIZE: 0.1-0.5m in height, 0.5-1m spread This variety has similarities to ‘Rhubarb and Custard’ in both flower, foliage, and even height and habit. What is different is that the leaves are lance-like and the colouring is less random and more regulated as the yellow-cream colour properly edges the leaf and the magenta spreads from the centre, gradually taking over most or all of the leaf in winter. References 1. Armstrone, T., & De Lange, P. (2005, October). Conservation genetics of Hebe speciosa (Plantaginaceae) an endangered New Zealand shrub. Botanical Journal of the Linnean Society. Retrieved March 16, 2023, from https://academic.oup.com/botlinnean/article/149/2/229/2420184
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There Are 10,000+ Azalea Varieties Out There - But These Are Our Favourites
IN THIS GUIDE 1) R. luteum 2) R. quinquefolium 3) R. schlippenbachii 4) R. viscosum 5) R. ‘Cecile’ 6) R. gibraltar 7) R. ‘Hino Crimson’ 8) R. ‘Purple Splendor’ 9) R. occidentale 10) R. ‘Delicatissimum’ 11) R. ‘Mother’s Day’ 12) R. ‘Fruit Salad’ 13) R. ‘Elsie Lee’ 14) R. ‘Schneeperle’ 15) A. ‘George L. Taber’ 16) R. ‘Addy Wery’ 17) R. ‘Iro Hayama’ 18) R. ‘Panda’ 19) The Encore Series Azalea Types Explained Evergreen Deciduous References Azaleas are prized in Japan and have been so since hundreds of years ago when gardeners cultivated them for Imperial gardens. By now there are over 10,000 registered or named varieties worldwide.1 Among the untold many thousands of varieties of Azaleas, we present a representative selection from the various groups, several of the most popular ones, and our favourites. “Due to the large number of Azaleas that have been hybridised and the many species available, there is an Azalea to suit every garden, from full sun to shade, from dwarf to large shrub,” shares Colin Skelly, who has almost 15 years of experience as a Horticulturist and Consultant. “Look out for the RHS AGM label for tried and tested plants in gardens or try something more rare and unusual.” 1) R. luteum COMMON NAME: COMMON YELLOW AZALEA NATIVE AREA: CAUCASUS TYPE: Pentanthera Attains a height of 2-3m and a spread of up to 2m. This is a Caucasus-region species naturalised in the UK. Classic funnel-shaped flowers are small at about 4.5cm and are a lovely buttery yellow and display long, prominent stamens. It is also very fragrant. 2) R. quinquefolium COMMON NAME: CORK AZALEA NATIVE AREA: JAPAN TYPE: DECIDUOUS A Japanese species that is grown as a shrub, this species can grow to be a tree up to 7m tall. It is also unusual both in its foliage and its flower. The leaves, of a normal size and colour, display a purplish rim. The small 3-4cm flowers are unusual in being pendent and bell-like. They have smooth, pure white petals with faint green spots on the upper three petals and they bloom in late April and May. 3) R. schlippenbachii COMMON NAME: ROYAL AZALEA NATIVE AREA: KOREA, JAPAN, RUSSIA TYPE: DECIDUOUS This is a species native to Korea, Japan and the Russian Far East.2 Commonly grown to 1-2m, this variety can reach an ultimate height of 5m; it is very cold-hardy. The foliage is of particular note as the leaves are red-bronze when they emerge and in the autumn present a stunning show in yellows, oranges, and reds. The marvellous flowers are unusually open, are about 6 centimetres, and have smooth petals. The gentle fragrance perfectly matches the gentle hue of a translucent pale pink. 4) R. viscosum COMMON NAME: SWAMP AZALEA NATIVE AREA: UNITED STATES TYPE: Pentanthera RHS AWARD OF GARDEN MERIT This bushy plant is a species native to Eastern and South-Eastern United States.3 It usually grows to a height of about 2m and spread of about 1.5m. It is very cold-hardy. The foliage has autumn interest, presenting shades of yellow, orange and purple. The small, tubular-funnel flowers are only 2-2.5cm across and have narrow petals whose colour varies; they can be pure white, white with pink flecks and streaks, or some tone of pink. It is a profuse bloomer. Flowers have a spicy, delightful fragrance. 5) R. ‘Cecile’ COMMON NAME: CECILE NATIVE AREA: CULTIVATED TYPE: Knap Hill RHS AWARD OF GARDEN MERIT The plant has a bushy habit and reaches about 2m in height and spread. The flowers are large at 8-10cm. These have beautiful, gently-ruffled petals of a soothing pink shade, often gently gradated, with a reddish throat and yellow-orange flare on the dorsal petal. Flowers bloom in May through June. Compare with ‘Berry Rose.’ 6) R. gibraltar COMMON NAME: GIBRALTAR NATIVE AREA: UNITED STATES TYPE: Knap Hill (Exbury) RHS AWARD OF GARDEN MERIT The plant reaches a height of 1.5-2m and spread of 1-1.5m. The petals with their curls and frills impart a pleasingly ruffled appearance to the flowers. The colour is rich and intense, from a flame orange to proper vermilion, often with a yellow tinge. Medium-sized, about 6cm flowers are fragrant. They bloom in May. 7) R. ‘Hino Crimson’ COMMON NAME: HINO CRIMSON NATIVE AREA: JAPAN TYPE: Kurume RHS AWARD OF GARDEN MERIT This semi-dwarf attains a height and spread of about 1m. Foliage has some winter interest as it becomes reddish. Small, 4.5cm single form flowers with smooth, flattish petals bloom in May. They are a solid colour; an intense, thrilling hue of pinkish-red. 8) R. ‘Purple Splendor’ COMMON NAME: PURPLE SPLENDOR NATIVE AREA: UNITED STATES TYPE: Evergreen Usually grows to 1-2m but can attain a height of 3m. It has a bushy and spreading habit; it is quite cold-hardy. Flowers are both large at about 8cm and also bloom profusely in May. The petals are smooth, while the colour is a rich shade of purple with a dark or red throat and a flash with freckles on the dorsal petal. 9) R. occidentale COMMON NAME: WESTERN AZALEA NATIVE AREA: UNITED STATES TYPE: Pentanthera RHS AWARD OF GARDEN MERIT Though its 10-year height and spread is about 2m, this species can grow to several metres. Fully open, the funnel-shaped flowers present a star-like appearance. They are pure white, or white with pink streaks and tinges and yellow flares, or some pastel tone. The flowers are very special, being large at 10cm, sweetly fragrant, and blooming in late spring and early summer – June and July. 10) R. ‘Delicatissimum’ NATIVE AREA: EAST ASIA TYPE: Deciduous RHS AWARD OF GARDEN MERIT This variety has a compact, bushy habit and reaches a height and spread of 1-1.5m. Foliage provides some autumn interest. Trumpet-shaped flowers present a ‘delicate’ appearance, and are pale cream with a pale pink flush, a pink streak or sector, and a yellow flare. They are fragrant and bloom through June. 11) R. ‘Mother’s Day’ NATIVE AREA: JAPAN TYPE: Kurume; Evergreen RHS AWARD OF GARDEN MERIT A dwarf with a compact, mounding form of about 0.6m high and up to 1m wide. The leaves take on a bronzed tone in winter. The medium-sized flowers are about 6cm and are hose-in-hose or double. They are a solid colour; a brilliant Lipstick Red and bloom in May. 12) R. ‘Fruit Salad’ COMMON NAME: FRUIT SALAD NATIVE AREA: CULTIVATED TYPE: Deciduous The plant reaches 1.2-1.5m – the smallish flowers are about 5cm. They are funnel-shaped and present a star-like face. The petals are a vivid pink with streaks of deep pink and red, while the dorsal petal is a rich orange, with adjacent petals displaying light orange flashes. The scented flowers bloom in late June. 13) R. ‘Elsie Lee’ COMMON NAME: ELSIE LEE NATIVE AREA: UNITED STATES TYPE: Knap Hill (Exbury) RHS AWARD OF GARDEN MERIT A semi-dwarf variety that attains a height and spread of about 0.8m. Semi-double flowers with delightful, richly ruffled petals of a pale yet bright lilac-purple hue. Medium-sized, about 6cm flowers bloom in profusion in late May. 14) R. ‘Schneeperle’ NATIVE AREA: UNITED STATES TYPE: Knap Hill (Exbury) Dwarf variety of only about 0.35m with a spread of 0.5m having a creeping, clumping form. The flowers are small at about 4cm and are in double form. Like a bridal veil they are snowy white but are embellished with a greenish-yellow-tinged throat. The petals have wavy edges and flowers bloom in May. 15) A. ‘George L. Taber’ COMMON NAME: George Taber Southern Indica Azalea NATIVE AREA: SOUTHERN INDIA TYPE: Southern Indica Grows to just over 2m tall and just under 2m spread. It is very heat tolerant and the flowers have a classic funnel shape and are large at 7-8cm. The smooth petals are a pale orchid hue with an intense rose-mauve flare and flecks on the dorsal petal. Flowers bloom in profusion in mid- and late-spring. 16) R. ‘Addy Wery’ COMMON NAME: ADDY WERY AZALEA NATIVE AREA: JAPAN TYPE: Kurume This compact plant reaches a height of up to 1.2m. Bears small trumpet-shaped flowers of 4-4.5cm. They are a deep, rich vermilion to red; almost a solid colour bar slight gradation from the centre. Blooms profusely in late April through early May. 17) R. ‘Iro Hayama’ COMMON NAME: IRO HAYAMA NATIVE AREA: JAPAN TYPE: Kurume RHS AWARD OF GARDEN MERIT This semi-dwarf variety has a mounding form and reaches a height and spread of about 1m. It bears small, 4cm trumpet-shaped flowers. The smooth petals are white gently gradating to a pale lavender or pale mauve. Flowers present an elegant, delicate appearance. Blooms in May. 18) R. ‘Panda’ COMMON NAME: PANDA AZALEA NATIVE AREA: JAPAN TYPE: Evergreen RHS AWARD OF GARDEN MERIT Neither tubby nor black-and-white; rather, it bears the most delicate, indeed fragile-seeming, of Azalea flowers. This plant is a dwarf with a spreading habit that grows to only 30-40cm. The small flowers are only about 3cm. Petals are in an unusual imbricate form and are snow-white, appearing wispy or filmy, with the golden yellow of the anthers providing a strong contrast. It bears a profusion of flowers in May. 19) The Encore Series COMMON NAME: ENCORE AZALEA NATIVE AREA: CULTIVATED TYPE: Encore Encore is a patented brand of re-blooming Azaleas that were cultivated in Lousiana as recently as the 1980s.4 They produce flowers, sometimes abundantly, from spring clear into autumn, or produce blooms once in spring and again, often more profusely, in autumn. They are relatively heat-tolerant. Azalea Types Explained Evergreen Azaleas typically have a mounding form and are compact whereas deciduous ones are usually taller with less branching. Evergreen The evergreen forms bloom earlier in spring and do so profusely but the flowers are almost always unscented while the deciduous ones bloom in mid or late spring, with the flowers coming slower and less densely but typically having a sweet fragrance. Evergreen Azaleas, for the most part descending from sub-genus Tsutsusi, are divided into four groupings. Kurume Azaleas or Rhododendron obtusum Group Hybrids from Japanese species like R. kiusianum. They are dense, small plants, reaching just over a metre, and bloom in early spring, usually profusely. Many of the most desirable and popular evergreen Azaleas and RHS Award of Garden Merit recipients are Kurumes. Southern Indian Azaleas or Rhododendron indica Also hybrids and also descend from Japanese species and have nothing to do with India. They are less dense and bigger, attaining heights of over 2m. They bloom in mid-spring. They include exceptions like the ten-stamened ‘George Lindley Taber’. This group is further sub-divided into cold-hardy Southern Indian Azaleas which can be grown as garden plants, and greenhouse Belgian Indian Azalea, which displaced the former as the Azalea of choice in England. Kaempferi Azaleas The third group of ‘evergreen’ hybrids comprises of the Kaempferi Azaleas which are usually semi-evergreen. Like the Kurume Azaleas, these plants grow to about a metre but like the Southern Indian Azaleas they bloom in mid-to-late spring. Reblooming Azaleas The fourth and final evergreen group of hybrids are Reblooming Azaleas. They too share attributes with both ‘major’ groups, being similar to the Kurumes in plant size but similar to the Southern Indian Azaleas in flowers and foliage. This group is very attractive for blooming twice, once in spring and then again, usually more profusely, in autumn. Encore is probably the most well-known and popular producer of such Azaleas and is on the way to becoming a grouping of its own. Deciduous Deciduous Azaleas which mainly descend from sub-genus Pentanthera species are usually divided into four groupings. The oldest hybridisation of deciduous species are the ‘Ghent Azaleas’, which date from the 1820s.5 These descend from crosses of American species with the sole European species. These plants have a somewhat rounded form with a height and spread of about 2.5m. They are generally disease-resistant, robust plants; flowers are small and fragrant, and their double forms are renowned. Mollis Azaleas The Belgian-Dutch ‘Mollis Azaleas’ date from about 1840 and derive mainly from R. japonicum and not from R. molle, notwithstanding the (erroneous) nomenclator.6 They have a mounded form with a height of about 1.5m but a spread of nearly 2.5m. They are more cold-hardy, while their flowers are almost always unscented and the colours run through the orange-red spectrum. Knap Hill Azaleas The ‘Knap Hill Azaleas’ are a miscellany of hybrids that descend from both East Asian and American species as well as the sole European one. This group was bred by Waterer pere et fils from the 1850s onward. Varieties usually grow to about 1.5m but some attain heights of 2.5m. Spreads are typically from 2-3m. Flowers are distinctly larger and often have saturated hues in a wider spectrum from yellow through crimson, and include whites and pinks. Exbury Strain Finally, we have the ‘Exbury Strain’ of the ‘Knap Hills’ or the ‘Exbury Azalea’ Group that was cultivated in the 1920s, mostly deriving from the Knap Hills.7 These reach heights of 1-1.5m and are cold-hardy varieties. Flowers are large and have particularly deep and rich hues in the yellow to red spectrum. Seeds and flowers of this strain were exported to the United States, and now the Exburys are considered the most important grouping of deciduous Azaleas in American floriculture. It is to be noted that the above horticultural classification is an ‘Atlanticist’ one. Japanese, Chinese, and Korean horticulturalists and their respective floral trades have their own classification and groupings for Azalea cultivars. References 1. Azalea Society of America. (2018b, August 14). Learn about azaleas. Retrieved March 10, 2023, from https://www.azaleas.org/about-azaleas/ 2. Rhododendron schlippenbachii Maxim. (n.d.). Kew Royal Botanic Gardens. Retrieved March 10, 2023, from https://powo.science.kew.org/taxon/urn:lsid:ipni.org:names:333307-1 3. Rhododendron viscosum. (n.d.). Wildflower Center. Retrieved March 10, 2023, from https://www.wildflower.org/plants/result.php?id_plant=rhvi2 4. S. (2022b, September 29). Encore Azaleas lead the way in LA. Encore Azalea. Retrieved March 10, 2023, from https://encoreazalea.com/news/encore-varieties-lead-multi-season-azaleas/ 5. 18. Ghent-azaleas. (n.d.). University of Bergen. Retrieved March 10, 2023, from https://www.uib.no/en/universitygardens/137155/18-ghent-azaleas 6. Rhododendron: The Hybrids / Azalea Hybrids. (n.d.). Trees and Shrubs Online. Retrieved March 10, 2023, from https://treesandshrubsonline.org/articles/rhododendron-the-hybrids-azalea-hybrids-deciduous/ 7. Exbury Azaleas – From History To Your Garden. (n.d.). Virginia Tech. Retrieved March 10, 2023, from https://scholar.lib.vt.edu/ejournals/JARS/v40n1/v40n1-cash1.htm
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Azalea vs Rhododendron - The Difference Between Them Explained By Horticulturists
IN THIS GUIDE Differentiating Factors 1) Stamens 2) Flowers (Number & Shape) 3) Leaves (Texture & Size) References Though Azaleas and Rhododendrons are distinct plants, they are very closely related and hybrids between the two have arisen or been developed. Each of Azalea and Rhododendron used to be a genus of its own under Carl Linnaeus’s classifications.1 However, professional Botanists and Taxonomists got up to their usual mischief, re-classifying and re-arranging the genera and their species and confusing us poor lay gardeners! “It can be hard to keep up with botanical name changes, although, as with Azaleas and Rhododendrons, the previous names often still stick for gardeners and nurseryman,” says Colin Skelly, a Master Horticulturist with 15 years of experience. “I don’t get frustrated though because the point of botanical classification is to group plants together that are related in origin. “This was previously done using only the features of the plant, such as leaves and flowers. “Botanists are now able to use DNA, which has revealed some surprises – plants that look alike but aren’t related and vice versa.” But then, growers and gardeners themselves were also partly to blame because all too often they would not, and still do not, distinguish between the two plants and, instead, use the names ‘Azalea’ and ‘Rhododendron’ interchangeably, though horticulturalists were and are usually more disciplined. A long struggle to subsume Genus Azalea within those Rhododendrons was waged from 1834 to the early 1900s, when the resistance ended.2 A scattered insurrection continues. “Azaleas and rhododendrons belong to the same vast genus of rhododendron,” explains Katrina Clow from The Scottish Rhododendron Society. “There are two subgenera of azaleas; one group is deciduous and the other are small-leaved evergreens.” So as it stands, Azaleas are subsumed within Genus Rhododendron, a member of Family Ericaceae or the Heather Family.3 These plants are well-known to be acidophilic. Azaleas are classified under two sub-genera, Pentanthera and Tsutsusi.4 The former sub-genus comprises about 15 species that are deciduous; these are native to the southern USA; the latter sub-genus includes about 80-120 species that are evergreen, and these are native to a swath of East Asia.5 “The deciduous azaleas are a lovely group, stunning in bloom with a wide colour range, fragrant and with good autumn colour and easy to manage,” Katrina shares. “They are later to flower so may escape May frosts, and they are easy to propagate, from woody cuttings or offshoots at the base too. “Evergreen azaleas make good houseplants and tolerate indoor conditions better than other rhododendrons.” As for the hybrids and cultivars, there are untold thousands of them; as a result, many evergreen Azaleas are grown in the United States. Differentiating Factors Rather than lay out lengthy descriptions as to how to tell apart Azaleas and Rhododendrons, we provide a handy chart for quick lookup and differentiation. Factors are listed in descending order of decisive importance. We do not include blooming season as a factor because this varies and overlaps so much by variety, climate, and geographic location. Azalea Rhododendron Number of Stamens Usually 5 but up to 10 10 or more Flowers Usually Solitary/Terminal Almost Always in Trusses Leaves – Texture Soft and Smooth Leathery or Scaly Underneath Leaves – Size Smaller and Thinner Bigger and Thicker Flower Shape Tube-Funnel-Shaped Bell-Like There are other points of difference but those are more subjective and are also liable to overlap and to exceptions. Here are some visual comparisons of each: 1) Stamens An Azalea will usually have five-to-ten stamens; Rhododendrons will typically have ten or more. Azalea Rhododendron 2) Flowers (Number & Shape) Flowers of an Azalea are usually solitary; Rhododendrons will form in trusses like the flowers of a tomato plant. In terms of flower shape, Azalea flowers are tube- or funnel-shaped; Rhododendrons look more like the shape of a bell (though this isn’t the most prominent tell-tale sign). Azalea Rhododendron 3) Leaves (Texture & Size) The leaves of an Azalea are typically smaller and thinner than those of a Rhododendron plant. You may also find that Azalea leaves feel soft and smooth to the touch; while Rhododendrons are often leathery or scaly on the underside. Azalea Rhododendron References 1. Azaleas and Rhododendrons. (n.d.). University of Arkansas. Retrieved March 10, 2023, from https://www.uaex.uada.edu/yard-garden/resource-library/plant-week/Azaleas-Rhododendrons-05-01-2020.aspx 2. Rhododendron and Azalea Classification Information. (n.d.-b). The American Rhododendron Society. Retrieved March 10, 2023, from https://www.rhododendron.org/classification.htm 3. About Rhododendrons. (n.d.). Rhododendron Species Botanical Garden. Retrieved March 10, 2023, from https://rhodygarden.org/our-plants/rhododendrons/about-rhododendrons/ 4. Rhododendron and Azalea Classification Information. (n.d.-c). The American Rhododendron Society. Retrieved March 10, 2023, from https://www.rhododendron.org/classification.htm 5. The Editors of Encyclopaedia Britannica. (2023a, January 25). Azalea. Encyclopedia Britannica. Retrieved March 10, 2023, from https://www.britannica.com/plant/azalea
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Dahlia Tubers Can Multiply Quickly - Divide Them Every Few Years For Optimal Growth
IN THIS GUIDE 1) Lift The Plants 2) Remove Excess Soil 3) Divide Your Tubers 4) Store Or Pot Up Dahlias are a must-have tuberous perennial for any garden, as they are available in all shapes, sizes and colours and can flower for months on end. Dahlia tubers can grow and multiply quickly, which is why it is often suggested to divide them every year or two. Dividing the tubers not only helps the parent plant to remain healthy and keep blooming but provides new dahlia plants to add to the garden or give away. In colder climates, it is advisable to lift and store dahlia tubers to overwinter safely. However, in milder parts of the United Kingdom, dahlia tubers can usually be mulched and left in the ground to overwinter and divided in early spring. You can lift and divide dahlia tubers by following these steps: Lift the plants using a garden fork or spade Knock off any excess soil Divide the tubers using your spade or secateurs Store or pot up your tubers I have explained this entire process in more depth below. Difficulty Medium Equipment Required Garden spade or fork, gloves, secateurs or knife, steriliser, pots, sand or newspaper, compost. When To Divide March, April, May, June 1) Lift The Plants Whether in spring or winter, the dahlias tubers need to be lifted in order to divide them. This can be done by carefully digging around the plant with a fork or spade and lifting the clump of tubers out of the soil or pot. 2) Remove Excess Soil Once lifted, the tubers need to be cleaned so they are ready to divide or store. Any soil needs to be removed for the tubers, which can be gently done using a soft brush or hose spray. Once cleaned, allow the tubers to dry for a few days and cut off any rotten, soft or dead material with a pair of clean and sharp secateurs. 3) Divide Your Tubers When dividing dahlia tubers, it is important to note that only a tuber with an eye present will grow into a new plant. Any tubers that do not have an eye will not be productive and can be added to the compost heap. Identifying the eyes on the tubers can be tricky. The eyes are situated at the top of the tubers, by the previous year’s stem and can look like a black or coloured little bump. Unlike potatoes, dahlias do not produce eyes on the body or end of the tubers. If no eyes are visible, the clump can simply be cut into 3-4 equal pieces which will most likely all have an eye or two each. Alternatively, the tubers can be left in a warm environment to encourage the eyes to develop and swell and be easier to identify. Dahlia tubers can be susceptible to infection from the wounds made when being divided, thus it is recommended to use a clean and sharp knife that is sterilised in between plants. To divide the tubers, simply cut the tubers apart at the neck, whether in small clumps or individually, making sure each division has a healthy tuber with an eye present to grow from. Allow the separated divisions to rest for 2-3 days, which will allow the wounds to dry a little before storing for longer or potting up. 4) Store Or Pot Up The divided tubers can then continue to be stored until required or potted up to grow on. Dahlia tubers need to be stored in a cool, dry, dark and frost-free environment until all risk of frost has passed when they can then be planted out. To store, the tubers can be placed in pots or boxes and covered with dry sand or vermiculite, or wrapped in newspaper and placed in a frost-free garage or greenhouse. Alternatively, in March or April, the tubers can be potted up in suitably sized pots with a peat-free general-purpose compost. I would advise planting with the eye up, to a depth so that the top of the tuber is just below the soil surface and any old stems above. Water and grow on in a greenhouse until after the last frost and the plant is big enough to fend off any slug or snail attack. Whether the divisions are for storing or potting up, don’t forget to label them, as dahlia tubers can be very difficult to distinguish between. “What if your Dahlia doesn’t have tubers?” asks Master Horticulturist Dan Ori. “This is common in bedding Dahlias and will be the case for any newly propagated plant from a cutting or seed. “Newly propagated plants will have a more fibrous root system but given favourable conditions, these plants will develop a fasciculated tuberous root (tuber) over time. “It is commonly encountered that when people dig up young plants or bedding Dahlias in autumn that they have not had a chance to develop a tuberous system yet. “In this case, I would advise keeping the plant (or cuttings from) in a heated greenhouse or conservatory to over winter.”
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Sowing Bedding Dahlias: They'll Typically Flower After 100-120 Days
IN THIS GUIDE 1) Prepare To Sow 2) Sow Your Seeds 3) Wait For Germination 4) Pot Up The Seedlings 5) Harden Off & Plant Out Dahlias are attractive plants which can work well in many gardens, sporting a hugely varied group of flowering plants. Fast-growing bedding dahlias are suitable for growing from seed, while other dahlias are best propagated by means of planting tubers, or from cuttings. However, you can also use the same method to sow seeds you have collected yourself from an existing dahlia in your garden the previous season. This can be a very interesting thing to do because it can throw up a range of new varieties, as you can not be entirely sure of what the plants sown from seed will actually look like, and how their flowers will be. Of course, if you purchase seeds, this is also a very affordable way to obtain new dahlia plants. It will cost far less than growing potted plants or purchasing tubers to plant. To grow bedding dahlias from seed, sow undercover in late winter or early spring: Fill a seed tray or small pots with moist potting mix. Gently push the dahlia seeds into the potting medium. Wait for seeds to germinate. Once true leaves form, transplant the dahlia seedlings into individual pots. Harden off seedlings before transplanting to their final growing positions in May. Read on for more detail on each of the steps outlined above. Difficulty Easy Equipment Required Seeds, pots or seed trays, covers or a propagator lid, potting medium When To Sow February to April When To Plant Out May 1) Prepare To Sow Dahlias are best sown indoors from February to get them off to the best start, though you can also sow them where they are to grow in April, once the risk of frost has passed in your area. Take a seed tray or small plugs, soil blocks or pots, and fill these with a suitable, moist, peat-free seed starting compost. “I recommend augmenting peat-free seed compost with one part fine-grade vermiculite to two parts compost,” shares Dan Ori, a Horticultural Instructor and Consultant. “My personal favourite mix is one part fine-grade vermiculite, one part hydrated coir and one part peat-free seed compost. “I will pot plants onto a similar mix of one part vermiculite (any grade), one part hydrated coir and one part peat-free multipurpose compost, adding some 6-month controlled release fertiliser.” 2) Sow Your Seeds Dahlia seeds are long and thin, and blackish in colour. Gently push the dahlia seeds vertically down into the compost, making sure that they are in good contact with the growing medium around them. Place these in a bright location with reasonable humidity. 3) Wait For Germination Dahlia seeds should germinate within around 2 weeks. Ensure that the medium remains moist but not damp during this time. 4) Pot Up The Seedlings Once the dahlia seeds have germinated, wait for the first leaves to grow. As soon as a couple of leaves have grown and the seedlings are large enough to handle, you can gently tease each one out of the growing medium and place each one into its own individual pot to grow on. Pots should be around 10cm in size and should be filled with a peat-free, multi-purpose compost. Water in the plants well on transplantation and grow them on indoors or under cover until around the middle of May. 5) Harden Off & Plant Out From around the middle of May, you can begin the hardening-off process. This simply means slowly acclimatising indoor grown plants to outdoor conditions. Gradually place them outdoors for longer and longer periods, bringing them in at night, or use a cold frame for the hardening-off process if you have one. Dahlia seedlings can be planted out into their final growing positions once all risk of frost has passed where you live. Bedding dahlia planted out in May should flower the same year. Typically, bedding dahlias will flower from 100-120 days after the seeds are sown, but with other dahlias, you may have to wait longer for blooms to emerge.
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The 40 Most Commonly Grown Houseplants With Some Of Doug Stewart's Favourites
IN THIS GUIDE 1) African Violet 2) Air Plant 3) Aloe Vera 4) Amaryllis 5) Aspidistra 6) Bamboo 7) Begonia 8) Bonsai Tree 9) Boston Fern 10) Bromeliad 11) Cape Primrose 12) Chinese Money Plant 13) Areca Palm 14) Croton 15) Crown Of Thorns 16) Devil’s Ivy 17) Dracaena 18) Dumb Cane Plant 19) Echeveria 20) Fiddle-Leaf Fig 21) Elephant Ear 22) Wax Plant 23) Ivy 24) Jade Plant 25) Kalanchoe 26) Maidenhair Fern 27) Swiss Cheese Plant 28) Moth Orchid 29) Peace Lily 30) Philodendron 31) Prayer Plant 32) Prickly Pear Cactus 33) Purple Shamrock 34) Rhipsalis 35) Snake Plant 36) Slipper Orchid 37) Spider Plant 38) Staghorn Fern 39) String Of Pearls 40) Umbrella Tree One Final Word Of Warning References A sizeable garden at your disposal isn’t a prerequisite to having green fingers. Houseplants are a great way of indulging your passion for horticulture and sprucing up your home’s interior décor in one fell swoop. “I absolutely adore houseplants and have about 60 in my home right now,” shares Horticulturist Doug Stewart. “I think they are transient and I wouldn’t live without them.” Best of all, most house plants require little maintenance, with many enjoying the same temperatures as humans and demanding nothing more than regular watering. Below are a selection of the most widespread varieties in the UK, which are popular for their aesthetic qualities and their ease of cultivation. 1) African Violet BOTANICAL NAME: Saintpaulia ionantha HARDINESS RATING: H1A FLOWERING SEASON(S): Spring / Summer / Autumn / Winter SUNLIGHT: Bright, indirect light WATERING: Once per week The Streptocarpus genus encompasses more than 150 species and over a thousand cultivars, so there’s bound to be an option to suit your space.1 Characterised by colourful but dainty blossoms and pleasingly shaped leaves, African violets are a delightful addition to any windowsill. 2) Air Plant BOTANICAL NAME: Tillandsia spp. HARDINESS RATING: H1C FLOWERING SEASON(S): Spring / Autumn SUNLIGHT: Bright, diffused light WATERING: Spray once per week Termed by some sellers as virtually indestructible, air plants do not require any soil whatsoever and have revolutionised the term terrarium. They do, however, demand bright sunlight and a good drink once a week, which can be provided by misting the plant or submerging it fully in water and allowing it to air dry. 3) Aloe Vera BOTANICAL NAME: Aloe vera HARDINESS RATING: H1C FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer SUNLIGHT: Bright, direct light WATERING: Once per month Aloe vera is adept at surviving without watering, making them highly useful to have around the home. They’re also easy on the eye and as succulents, they don’t need too much in the way of irrigation (though they do need bright sunlight). 4) Amaryllis BOTANICAL NAME: Hippeastrum HARDINESS RATING: H2 FLOWERING SEASON(S): Spring / Winter SUNLIGHT: Bright, diffused light WATERING: Once every 2 weeks Also known as Hippeastrum, amaryllis plants boast bulbous roots, long stems and oversized flowers with a velvety texture and vibrant tones. They’re often grown for Christmas but will provide interest to your indoor display in whichever month you choose to cultivate them. Expect blossoms around two months after planting. 5) Aspidistra BOTANICAL NAME: Aspidistra elatior HARDINESS RATING: H3 FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer SUNLIGHT: Bright, indirect light WATERING: Once per week Aspidistras are commonly referred to as cast iron plants in recognition of their resilience, since they’re hardy up to -5°C and will survive a modicum of neglect from absent-minded gardening enthusiasts. Their broad leaves bring interesting foliage to any corner and they do best when kept out of direct sunlight. 6) Bamboo BOTANICAL NAME: Bambusa vulgaris HARDINESS RATING: H1C SUNLIGHT: Bright, direct light WATERING: Once per week Bamboo has increased massively in popularity in the UK of late. This is despite the fact that they require a little more TLC than almost all other options on this list. Great for hobbyists keen to integrate a contemporary aesthetic. 7) Begonia BOTANICAL NAME: Begonia HARDINESS RATING: H2 FLOWERING SEASON(S): Spring / Summer / Autumn / Winter SUNLIGHT: Bright, indirect light WATERING: Every 2-4 days Often found on the floors of shadowy forests, begonias are a perfect choice for a north-facing room which enjoys a few hours of sunlight. Their fascinating coloured foliage, which combines psychedelic tones with spiral or variegated patterns, is the main attraction for these dimly lit dwellers. 8) Bonsai Tree HARDINESS RATING: Varies between species FLOWERING SEASON(S): Varies between species SUNLIGHT: Bright, indirect light WATERING: Once per week Okay, so bonsai are one specimen which require more upkeep than bamboo – but they’re less of a style choice and more of a way of life. Bonsai enthusiasts dedicate several minutes (or for some, even hours!) every week to restoring balance in their specimens, in their homes and in their inner peace. 9) Boston Fern BOTANICAL NAME: Nephrolepis exaltata HARDINESS RATING: H1B SUNLIGHT: Bright to medium, indirect light WATERING: Once per week The arching fronds of the Boston fern are deliciously zesty lime green in colour, bringing a lighter contrast when placed alongside darker leafed foliage. It’s generally an unfussy plant, but its leaves do tend to droop and become discoloured if the soil is allowed to dry out completely. If that happens, water it thoroughly straight away and witness a miraculous revival. 10) Bromeliad BOTANICAL NAME: Bromeliad HARDINESS RATING: H3 FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer SUNLIGHT: Bright to medium, indirect light WATERING: Once per week In the wild, bromeliads are found in the upper echelons of tree boughs. This means that they prefer good aeration around their roots and dappled sunlight on their foliage, as well as filtered rainwater – though none of the above are total deal-breakers. Great for architectural attraction. 11) Cape Primrose BOTANICAL NAME: Streptocarpus glandulosissimus HARDINESS RATING: H1C FLOWERING SEASON(S): Spring / Summer / Autumn SUNLIGHT: Bright, indirect light WATERING: Every 9 days With large, leathery green leaves and eye-catching blossoms in a range of different colours, Cape Primrose is a cheerful addition to any environment they adorn. Position them on a windowsill that receives bright but indirect sunlight and avoid overwatering and they’ll thrive quite independently. 12) Chinese Money Plant BOTANICAL NAME: Pilea peperomioides HARDINESS RATING: H1C FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer SUNLIGHT: Bright, indirect light WATERING: Once per week We can’t guarantee that this plant will bring you good omens financially, but we can promise it will add contemporary charm to your indoor display. The small but profuse spherical leaves are highly pleasing to the eye, especially in mature plants, since they look great spilling over the sides of a hanging basket. 13) Areca Palm BOTANICAL NAME: Chrysalidocarpus lutescens HARDINESS RATING: H1A FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer SUNLIGHT: Bright, indirect light WATERING: Once per week The fountain of bright green foliage which springs forth from the Chrysalidocarpus genus, alongside its towering stature, makes the plant a superb focal point for any room of the house. It needs bright but indirect sunlight and thorough watering throughout the growing season. 14) Croton BOTANICAL NAME: Codiaeum variegatum HARDINESS RATING: H1B FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer SUNLIGHT: Bright, indirect light WATERING: Once per week The foliage of croton can vary immensely from one cultivar to the next, with some boasting lance-like fronds and others with deeper and rounder surfaces. Regardless, they carry streaks of bright yellow, orange, red and pink which are great at brightening up dull or monochrome parts of the home. 15) Crown Of Thorns BOTANICAL NAME: Euphorbia milii HARDINESS RATING: H1B FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer SUNLIGHT: Bright, direct light WATERING: Once every 2 weeks The prickly name of this species comes from the barbs on its leaves and the sap inside its fat foliage. However, it’s worth the trouble of handling with gloves for the dainty but dazzling flowers (or, more accurately, coloured bracts) that it shoots forth on a nearly continual basis. 16) Devil’s Ivy BOTANICAL NAME: Epipremnum aureum HARDINESS RATING: H1B FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer SUNLIGHT: Medium, indirect light WATERING: Once per week Devil’s Ivy is at its most comfortable when surrounded by hot and humid conditions, which makes it an ideal choice for the bathroom. It can either be grown out of a pot or hung from a hanger, while its trailing vines lend themselves to attractive draping as seen in the image above. 17) Dracaena BOTANICAL NAME: Dracaena HARDINESS RATING: H1C FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer SUNLIGHT: Bright, indirect light WATERING: Once per week Dracaenas are highly versatile plants which come in a variety of different forms. The pictured specimen above boasts attractive twin trunks and fun, oversized foliage. It’s best in bright light but can handle some shade, though it doesn’t take kindly to fluoride at all, so make sure to use rainwater to irrigate.2 18) Dumb Cane Plant BOTANICAL NAME: Dieffenbachia amoena HARDINESS RATING: H1A SUNLIGHT: Bright, indirect light WATERING: Once every 2 weeks Despite the unflattering name, dumb cane plants offer attractively large leaves that are green with white speckles. Perfect for complementing similar hues in the surrounding colour scheme. 19) Echeveria BOTANICAL NAME: Echeveria secunda HARDINESS RATING: H2 FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer SUNLIGHT: Bright, direct light WATERING: Every 1-2 months Succulents are the ultimate in set-and-forget house plants. Simply pop them on a windowsill which receives its fair share of UV radiation and mist them occasionally and voila – you have a living ornament in your home. Echeveria is a large genus with many cultivars to choose from in all shapes and sizes. 20) Fiddle-Leaf Fig BOTANICAL NAME: Ficus lyrata HARDINESS RATING: H1B FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer SUNLIGHT: Bright, direct light WATERING: Once per week The oversized leaves of fiddle-leaf figs are what makes them such an attractive option around the home, but they’re also what makes them slightly more demanding than some of the other options in this article. That’s because they need an abundance of sunlight to photosynthesise and just the right amount of water to thrive. 21) Elephant Ear BOTANICAL NAME: Colocasia esculenta HARDINESS RATING: H1B FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer SUNLIGHT: Bright, indirect light WATERING: Once a day Another plant with a moniker derived from its enormous leaves, Elephant Ears are prized for their foliage rather than their flowers. They originally hail from tropical climes, making them ideal for an indoor environment, while their extremely quick-growing nature means they can reach maturity in a matter of months. 22) Wax Plant BOTANICAL NAME: Hoya carnosa HARDINESS RATING: H2 FLOWERING SEASON(S): Spring / Summer / Autumn SUNLIGHT: Bright to medium, indirect light WATERING: Once per week The woody stems and waxy leaves of hoya plants make them a huge favourite around the home, regardless of whether they’re trained upwards or allowed to trail downwards. The colourful clusters of diminutive flowers, reminiscent of wax or porcelain (hence their common names), are the icing on the cake. 23) Ivy BOTANICAL NAME: Hedera HARDINESS RATING: H5 FLOWERING SEASON(S): Autumn SUNLIGHT: Bright, indirect light WATERING: Once per week Another trailer/climber, Ivy is most often seen adorning the external façade of grand country homes. However, it’s equally attractive in an indoor setting and can liven up lacklustre walls or add intrigue to a boring corner. Another which favours humidity, it is ideal for the kitchen or bathroom. 24) Jade Plant BOTANICAL NAME: Crassula ovata HARDINESS RATING: H2 FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer SUNLIGHT: Bright, indirect light WATERING: Once every 2-3 weeks The rubber-like leaves on a Jade Plant are just as on-point and en vogue as the plastic counterparts you might find in an Ikea home display – and they only require slightly more upkeep. However, unlike those artificial alternatives, jade plants continue to develop and become more lovely as they grow. 25) Kalanchoe BOTANICAL NAME: Kalanchoe HARDINESS RATING: H1B FLOWERING SEASON(S): Spring SUNLIGHT: Bright, indirect light WATERING: Once every 2-3 weeks A close relative of the jade plant, kalanchoes are succulents hailing from Madagascar which do extremely well in the cosier confines of an indoor climate. Their umbels of upward-facing blooms last longer than almost all other succulents, making them an attractive choice. 26) Maidenhair Fern BOTANICAL NAME: Adiantum HARDINESS RATING: H1C SUNLIGHT: Bright, indirect light WATERING: Every other day Another tropical fern which likes its humidity levels hot and heavy, maidenhair ferns do best in steamy bathrooms. Get the conditions right and you’ll be richly rewarded with mountains upon mountains of aesthetically pleasing light green leaves in miniature, which contrast nicely against the darker hues of the stems. 27) Swiss Cheese Plant BOTANICAL NAME: Monstera deliciosa HARDINESS RATING: H1B FLOWERING SEASON(S): Spring / Summer SUNLIGHT: Bright, indirect light WATERING: Every 1-2 weeks Commonly called Swiss Cheese plants, monsteras are true monsters of the house plant scene if allowed to grow unencumbered. They don’t require too much to produce prodigious leaves, though they’ll benefit from a moss pole to help them stay upright and they do demand regular irrigation. 28) Moth Orchid BOTANICAL NAME: Phalaenopsis HARDINESS RATING: H1C FLOWERING SEASON(S): Spring / Summer / Autumn / Winter SUNLIGHT: Bright, indirect light WATERING: Once per week Moth Orchids are tropical creatures that are highly appreciative of central heating systems. If the temperature and humidity levels are right, they’ll flower for longer than many other house plants, with their blossoms encompassing the full spectrum of pinks, purples, peaches, yellows and burgundies. 29) Peace Lily BOTANICAL NAME: Spathiphyllum wallisii HARDINESS RATING: H1B FLOWERING SEASON(S): Spring / Summer SUNLIGHT: Bright to low, indirect light WATERING: Once per week Another hugely popular house plant, Peace Lilies produce delicately graceful white spathes that are a pleasure on the eye. They’re capable of handling low exposure to sunlight, but won’t be quite so accommodating if you forget to water them more than once. 30) Philodendron BOTANICAL NAME: Philodendron HARDINESS RATING: H2 FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer SUNLIGHT: Bright, indirect light WATERING: Every 1-2 weeks The heart-shaped foliage of philodendron can grow to monstrous proportions if left unchecked in the great outdoors, but potted varieties are more easily controlled. They look equally impressive if trained up a trellis or allowed to dangle invitingly over the rim of their pot or basket. 31) Prayer Plant BOTANICAL NAME: Maranta leuconeura HARDINESS RATING: H1B FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer SUNLIGHT: Medium, indirect light WATERING: Every 1-2 weeks Prayer Plants belong to the maranta genus, which is home to some of the most brightly coloured foliage in the whole of the house plant kingdom. It’s not uncommon to see rich burgundies and profound pinks on the underside of a leaf and dark greens on the topmost surface. Beware of the pests it may attract. 32) Prickly Pear Cactus BOTANICAL NAME: Opuntia HARDINESS RATING: H1C FLOWERING SEASON(S): Spring / Summer SUNLIGHT: Bright, direct light WATERING: Once per month With distinctive rounded stems covered on both sides in spines, Prickly Pears are attractive but aggressive additions to your living room. The aforementioned stems often grow in pairs, earning them the nickname bunny ears, but they’re far from cuddly. The flowers which appear atop their ridges in summer are pleasant, however. 33) Purple Shamrock BOTANICAL NAME: Oxalis triangularis HARDINESS RATING: H3 FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer SUNLIGHT: Bright to medium, indirect light WATERING: Every 1-2 weeks The proliferation of triangular purple leaves which swarm the purple shamrock plant make it a curious sight in any room, especially when those warm tones are complemented by the bright pink of its nodding flowers in summer. A humidity enthusiast, it does well in kitchens and bathrooms. 34) Rhipsalis BOTANICAL NAME: Rhipsalis baccifera HARDINESS RATING: H1B FLOWERING SEASON(S): Spring / Summer / Autumn / Winter SUNLIGHT: Bright, indirect light WATERING: Once per week Though technically a cactus, Rhipsalis has torn up the rule book on the genus. Instead of thriving in sun, it prefers darkness, while the complete absence of spines along the surface of its leaves makes it the least cactus-like cactus in existence. Its trailing habit makes it ideal for hanging. “You’d find it difficult to go wrong with something like a Rhipsalis baccifera,” shares Jane Perrone, a Houseplant Expert. “I had a colleague back at The Guardian who had one on her desk forever. It didn’t grow, but it didn’t die either, it was just green and beautiful. “She didn’t care for it all – I’m sure there was some coffee thrown in there at some point! I love the Rhipsalis genus.” 35) Snake Plant BOTANICAL NAME: Sansevieria trifasciata HARDINESS RATING: H1B FLOWERING SEASON(S): Spring SUNLIGHT: Bright, indirect light WATERING: Once every 2 weeks Variously known as Snake Plant and (rather unkindly) mother-in-law’s tongue, sansevierias are another wildly popular choice for household cultivation. The stiff, upright leaves are instantly recognisable and there is a wide range of colours and patterns to choose from, but variegated forms may require more care than others. 36) Slipper Orchid BOTANICAL NAME: Paphiopedilum HARDINESS RATING: H1A FLOWERING SEASON(S): Spring / Summer / Autumn / Winter SUNLIGHT: Medium, indirect light WATERING: Twice per week Orchids are exotic and enticing house plants, but many of them demand exposure to direct sunlight. Not so with slipper orchids. Not only are they among the most shade-tolerant varieties out there, but their arresting petals and sometimes mottled foliage make them a showstopper and statement-maker, to boot. 37) Spider Plant BOTANICAL NAME: Chlorophytum comosum HARDINESS RATING: H2 FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer SUNLIGHT: Bright, indirect light WATERING: Once per week A firm favourite in British homes for decades, spider plants can bring classic charm to their surroundings. Characterised by light, arching leaves that cascade beautifully over the edge of their container, they’re perfect for an elevated display. 38) Staghorn Fern BOTANICAL NAME: Platycerium superbum HARDINESS RATING: H1A SUNLIGHT: Bright, indirect light WATERING: Every 1-2 weeks The staghorn fern must have some of the most architecturally interesting foliage of any plant anywhere. Native to the rainforests of Papua New Guinea, its robust, probing fronds stretch out enquiringly like the antlers of that cervid monarch of the glen. Certain to draw attention to itself. 39) String Of Pearls BOTANICAL NAME: Senecio rowleyanus HARDINESS RATING: H2 FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer SUNLIGHT: Bright, direct light WATERING: Once every 2 weeks As the name suggests, this dainty succulent features lengths of green globes along its stringy stems, meaning it’s another excellent choice for hanging or trailing. The species requires little in the way of upkeep other than sufficient light and water, and mature specimens can live for five years or more. 40) Umbrella Tree BOTANICAL NAME: Schefflera arboricola HARDINESS RATING: H1C SUNLIGHT: Bright, indirect light WATERING: Once every 10 days In its native Taiwan, the umbrella tree can reach an astonishing 10 feet in height. Of course, that’s likely far too tall for most homeowners, but the good news is that its growth is easily kept in line when potted. The green-and-yellow foliage makes it a head-turner, whatever its stature. One Final Word Of Warning Master Horticulturist Dan Ori offers a final word of warning – whichever houseplant type you choose to grow: “In my experience, success with houseplants can be 50% deliberate neglect, 40% right plant right place and 10% your intervention. “What kills most houseplants is overwatering (or allowing them to sit in water that can’t drain away). “If we don’t kill them by drowning, then placing a tender plant in a draught or in direct sunlight will probably see them fail, but if we have managed not to kill them with poor placement, forgetting to water them or check them over for pests and other problems will most likely do the job. “It is a balancing act of action and inaction, but choosing a suitable spot for the plant in your home will hugely help.” References 1. Streptocarpus. (n.d.). North Carolina Extension Gardener Plant Toolbox. Retrieved March 14, 2023, from https://plants.ces.ncsu.edu/plants/streptocarpus/ 2. Fluorine Toxicity in Plants. (2020, May 12). Pacific Northwest Pest Management Handbooks. Retrieved March 14, 2023, from https://pnwhandbooks.org/plantdisease/pathogen-articles/nonpathogenic-phenomena/fluorine-toxicity-plants
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