Growing
These Are The Lilacs Recommended For Containers By Master Horticulturists
IN THIS GUIDE Can You Grow Lilac In Pots? Choosing A Container Choosing Your Compost Potting Up Syringa Potted Lilac Care References Lilac is an attractive shrub, and although it only blooms for a brief period, it is great for wildlife – and the flowers are actually edible too.1 Syringa cultivars can make great choices for many gardens, but if you don’t have much space, or can only grow in containers, you might wonder whether you can grow lilac in pots. Can You Grow Lilac In Pots? “Lilacs can theoretically be grown in large containers, but they are an aggressive growing plant when in good health and vigour,” says David Gressley, Board Member at the International Lilac Society. The important thing to understand is that there are many different lilac cultivars to choose from. These often come from the common lilac, Syringa vulgaris, but can also be derived from other lilac species. Some cultivars grow very large, up to around 7m tall and wide. However, the good news is that there are also many much more compact options, and many of these are excellent choices for small gardens, or, indeed, for container cultivation. Some compact lilac cultivars that could be good choices for containers include: S. Flowerfesta series This compact lilac is S. meyeri, and grows into an upright deciduous shrub. It has panicles of flowers in different colours (depending on the particular choice from this range) in spring/early summer. It is also H7 hardy. S. ‘Josee’ This bushy, rounded shrub has matt leaves that are oval to heart-shaped. In the late spring and intermittently through to late autumn, it produces dense sprays of lavender-pink flowers. It repeats flowers most reliably in cool climates and is H6 hardy. S. ‘Minuet’ Slower growing and with a dense, rounded form, this lilac is S. prestoniae. It has oval green leaves, and is a floriferous varietal, with pink buds that open to paler pink blooms, on erect to nodding panicles. Syringa ‘Minuet’ is H7 hardy. S. meyeri ‘Palabin’ Another bushy and slow-growing lilac that is H5 hardy. This option has broadly ovate, dark green leaves and bears upright panicles of small, fragrant flowers with a lilac-pink hue in late spring or early summer. “Because my soil is acidic, I can’t grow the large S. vulgaris cultivars that I would like to in my garden,” shares Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly. “To overcome this, I purchased S. meyeri ‘Palibin’ to grow in a container. Although it is smaller lilac it is now 1.5m height and width, so still needs a large pot and plenty of water in the summer. “Through annual pruning and re-potting every 2-3 years, it stays around this size and healthy, but bear in mind the eventual size of ‘small’ lilacs and make sure you have the space to accommodate them.” S. ‘Red Pixie’ This is a compact lilac with spreading branches. The leaves are small, and of a mid-green hue, turning yellow in autumn. In late spring, and often again in late summer or early autumn, this shrub bears sprays of scented flowers which open from red buds to deep pink blooms, which fade to a paler pink as they mature. These types rarely exceed 1.5m in height and width, so are much better suited to container cultivation, and are H5 hardy. Choosing A Container Even smaller lilac cultivars will usually require a reasonably large container. Typically, when growing a lilac shrub in a pot, you will need to choose one that is at least 60cm in diameter. The container you choose should be sturdy, stable and heavy enough to cope with a shrub without tipping or blowing over when placed in your garden. It is also important to make sure that whatever container you choose has adequate drainage hole or holes at the base, so that excess water can drain away freely. Choosing Your Compost Lilac needs a soil-based growing medium for best results when being grown in a container longer term. The growing medium typically chosen should be a peat-free mix with some sand or grit added to improve the drainage. Potting Up Syringa When potting up lilac, you should make sure that the shrub sits at the same level that it sat in its previous pot. Place a little of the growing medium into the base of the pot, then place the lilac shrub into the pot and firm more of the growing medium around the sides, making sure that there are not any air pockets around the roots. Once you have placed the lilac into its new container, water it in well, making sure that excess water can drain away freely, and spread an organic mulch over the surface of the soil. How Many Can You Plant Per Pot? Typically, lilac is grown on its own in a container. Remember that even the smaller lilac shrubs will grow into fairly large plants. Lilacs also have a fairly shallow root system so might experience excess competition if other plants are placed alongside them. Remember, however, that lilac can benefit from having other plants growing in containers nearby, for purposes of organic pest control. For example, plant flowers nearby that attract predatory insects that help keep populations of pests like thrips down. Just make sure that your lilac has good airflow and space to breathe since overcrowded conditions can increase problems with infection with fungal issues. Potted Lilac Care Though lilac in the ground is a great low-maintenance plant, lilac in pots will typically require a little more care and take up a little more of your time, largely because of the necessity of keeping the medium moist. However, even in pots, lilac is a relatively easy and straightforward shrub to grow. To care for lilac in containers, place them in a sunny and sheltered position, with a moist yet free-draining medium, in such a position that excess water can drain away as it should. Elevating pots with pot stands or feet can help to ensure that winter wet does not cause an issue. In the ground, lilac can also cope with an exposed location, but when grown in pots it is best to choose a sheltered spot so that the plants don’t become unstable and potentially blow over in strong winds. “Periodic root pruning can be incorporated into the maintenance regime,” says David. “In essence, containerised lilac can be treated much like how a bonsai plant is maintained if you want to grow a small shrub.” Other things you can do to ensure your lilac grows well in pots include: Watering it regularly during particularly dry seasons (take particular care to keep the growing medium moist during the period of establishment). Remaining vigilant for pests, which may cause damage to plants, especially while they are young. Deadheading as the flowers fade if desired to keep things neat and tidy (though this job is certainly not essential). If you would like to propagate your lilac and obtain new plants, this is best achieved by taking softwood cuttings, or layering in summer. Pruning to reduce size, if required, in the dormant period in winter (these shrubs respond well to hard pruning but since they flower on the previous year’s wood, note that you will lose flowers for at least a year if you cut back all the old branches). If lilac in pots blooms poorly, check that it has enough sunshine, and that it is not waterlogged. In some locations, with some lilacs, it may be helpful to cover young plants to protect flowers against late spring frosts. References 1. Foraging Guide Lilac. (n.d.). The Foraging Course Company. Retrieved March 21, 2023, from https://www.foragingcoursecompany.co.uk/foraging-guide-lilac
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Harvesting Tomato Plants: This Is How To Get As Many Ripe Fruits As Possible
IN THIS GUIDE When To Harvest How To Know When Tomatoes Are Ready The Harvesting Process Encouraging Green Tomatoes To Ripen What To Do With Unripe Fruits Storing & Preserving References Tomatoes are one of the most popular garden, greenhouse or polytunnel crops to grow in the UK and they can be a very satisfying crop to grow. “I think tomatoes are a really rewarding plant to grow because they are very fast-growing and productive, so you can become fairly self-sufficient on tomatoes, whereas that’s harder to do on certain crops,” shares Lucy Hutchings, Gardener Designer and Co-Director of She Grows Veg. However, due to the variation in British summers, it can sometimes feel as though growing tomatoes in the UK is a race against time, as we aim to harvest ripe fruits before the end of the growing season. Knowing when to harvest your tomatoes is important, but it can also be useful to think about the steps we take during the harvesting period to ensure we get as many ripe fruits from our tomato plants as possible. Read on to find out everything you need to know about harvesting tomatoes: Difficulty Easy Equipment Required Collection vessel When To Harvest July – September When To Harvest When you will be able to start harvesting tomatoes will of course depend on the variety or varieties that you have chosen to grow. Some types will start to ripen far earlier than others, and others will take far longer to mature. Smaller, cherry-type tomatoes and early tomato types are among the fastest to ripen, while larger tomatoes, like beefsteak tomatoes, for example, will take a lot longer. It is worthwhile when choosing tomatoes, to familiarise yourself with the time-to-harvest for the particular cultivar that you have chosen, so you have some idea about when you can expect your fruits. Naturally, the harvest period for tomatoes also depends on when you sowed and planted your crop. To stand the best chance of a worthwhile harvest before the end of the growing season in the UK, it is a good idea to start seeds early, indoors. If you are growing in a greenhouse or polytunnel, rather than outdoors, this will also typically mean that you are able to begin harvesting tomatoes just a little bit earlier. This way you can start sowing as early as February. You may be able to start harvesting tomatoes from July and should usually be able to continue to do so until September, or perhaps even October if you are growing them undercover. How To Know When Tomatoes Are Ready Many tomatoes will be ready to harvest when they are fully red, but, of course, not all tomatoes turn red in hue when they are ripe. Tomatoes come in a range of different colours and not all will become red when they are ready. With some types, identifying the ripe fruit will not be as easy as looking for the bright red hue. You are looking also, for firm, plump and glossy fruits that are almost but perhaps not entirely mature. Fruits that are left to completely ripen on the vine will typically be the sweetest, but tomatoes will continue to ripen off the plant once they near the ripened stage. Picking them just a little before they reach peak maturity (and before they pass this peak) can help make sure you definitely don’t waste any fruit. The Harvesting Process The actual process of harvesting tomatoes could not be easier. Make sure that you check over your plants regularly to identify any fruits that are nearing full ripeness or that are fully mature. Whenever you see ripe fruits on the plants, simply pluck these from the plant, breaking them off through the stem just above the calyx at the top of the fruit. This is usually easy to do by hand, but if you wish you can use a pair of gardening scissors. “Harvesting tomatoes is a delicate affair, as heavy trusses laden with fruit are easy to accidentally snap,” says Horticultural Consultant Peter Lickorish. So if, like me, you don’t have the hands of a surgeon, keep a pair of sharp garden scissors for the job. I find this is preferable to plucking fruit, to make it easier to keep the calyx and help them to be stored longer.” Place the fruits you harvest into a collection vessel, making sure to place them carefully so they do not get bruised. Make sure that you harvest ripe fruits as they appear so production will continue. Encouraging Green Tomatoes To Ripen As tomatoes (and many other fruits) ripen, they give off ethylene gas, and this helps other tomatoes to ripen.1 Placing any other ripening fruits, such as apples from an apple tree or pieces of banana, below tomatoes will encourage green tomatoes to ripen on the vine before the end of the season. To ripen green tomatoes you can also: Increase temperatures and concentrate ethylene gas by covering your crop with a cloche or row cover. Cut back lower foliage and cut off any flowers and small fruits that don’t have a chance of reaching maturity as the end of the growing season approaches (this encourages the plant to focus on ripening remaining fruits). Put plants under stress by reduced watering or by tugging gently to loosen the roots of the plant, as when they are stressed, tomato plants will be ‘shocked’ into rushing to ensure propagation. What To Do With Unripe Fruits Though you can potentially get a few more ripe tomatoes by taking the steps above, you will likely still be left with some green fruits at the end of the growing season. You don’t need to worry, however, because you can still harvest slightly under-ripe tomatoes and have these ripen indoors. You can also use green tomatoes to make green tomato salsa or use them in a number of other recipes.2 “I wouldn’t be without tomatoes (always a blight resistant variety) as they are essential for pasta sauces,” says Janice Shipp, a Garden Writer. If you have plants with quite a few green fruits nearing maturity but not quite there, you can also, at the end of the season, pull up the whole vine and bring it indoors for the fruits to ripen. Somewhere relatively warm with good light, but not strong direct sunlight, is ideal. Plants could be hung in a porch, for example. Placing the tomatoes off the vine in a warm, dark place with ripening fruits that give off ethylene gas will improve the chances that these remaining fruits will ripen successfully. Traditionally drawers or paper bags are used. Storing & Preserving The ripe tomatoes that you harvest throughout the season are best used as quickly as possible when their flavour will be at its best. “Sometimes, tomatoes will split when washed after picking, in which case, you should try to use them as soon as possible,” adds Peter. Of course, how precisely you use your tomatoes will depend on which varieties you are growing. “At this time of the year, we’re eating everything,” shares Gerald Stratford, the author of Big Veg. “My partner makes chutneys and jams with all of the fruit and vegetables, but if there’s a surplus, as there will soon be with tomatoes, we will store them.” “Over the last couple of years, we’ve started using a dehydrator. You slice the tomato, put it in the machine for around 12-14 hours and it dries them without taking away the taste. “We put these tomatoes in a small jar, top it up with olive oil and pop the lid on. We will then use these tomatoes to make the base of pizzas that we like to eat every week. It’s divine – there’s nothing like it.” If you have too many, you might also: Freeze tomatoes for later use Dry tomatoes (in a dehydrator or your oven) Try canning, with a water bath canner, to make tomato sauces “With tomatoes, you can shove them in the freezer without having to sauce them,” shares Lucy. “This means that you can grow enough tomatoes for a family of 4 to be self-sufficient for the whole year, which is exciting. “With most crops, that feels quite unachievable, but with tomatoes, it’s quite easy to do.” References 1. Sargent, S. (n.d.). Ripening Tomatoes With Ethylene. University of Florida. Retrieved March 27, 2023, from https://ufdcimages.uflib.ufl.edu/IR/00/00/46/98/00001/CV20600.PDF 2. Fennell, L. (n.d.). Green tomato salsa/smoked tomato ketchup. BBC Food. Retrieved March 27, 2023, from https://www.bbc.co.uk/food/recipes/green_tomato_salsa_53906
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26 Vigorous Climbing Plants And Vines That Are Well Suited To Trellis Growing
IN THIS GUIDE 1) Common Ivy 2) Wisteria 3) Climbing Rose 4) Clematis 5) Climbing Hydrangea 6) Honeysuckle 7) Chocolate Vine 8) Nasturtium 9) Star Jasmine 10) Winter Creeper 11) American Wild Climbing Rose 12) Everlasting Pea 13) Virginia Creeper 14) Common Jasmine 15) Hardy Kiwi 16) Multi-Leaved Akebia 17) Kolomikta 18) Boston Ivy 19) Russian Vine 20) Grape Vine 21) Trumpet Vine 22) Potato Vine 23) Potato Tree 24) Hops 25) Crimson Glory Vine 26) Chinese Virginia Creeper References Underneath we present an assortment of fantastic climbers that will adorn your trellis, pergola, or any other structure. Many wonderful climbing vines hail from tropical regions and are tender so we have excluded those from our list, preferring relatively hardy and perennial options. This list is full of brilliant trellis plants for expansive growth that are suitable for British climates. 1) Common Ivy BOTANICAL NAME: Hedera helix COMMON NAME(S): Common Ivy / English Ivy HARDINESS RATING: H5 FOLIAGE TYPE: Evergreen FLOWERING SEASON(S): Autumn FRUIT SEASON(S): Winter SUNLIGHT: Full Shade / Partial Shade / Full Sun SOIL PREFERENCE: Any soil type; any pH EXPOSURE: Exposed / Sheltered Though you would almost surely have English Ivy climbing up the side of your two-storey dwelling and not a little trellis, we must start with this plant for the sake of tradition and in recognition of it as a quintessential feature of stately British homes and gardens. All the numerous varieties are hardy evergreens and will grow in any type of soil and in any position with any aspect. Most ivies are not only vigorous climbers but are massive in height and breadth. Those that are not have lovely variegated foliage in greens, golds, yellows, or cream, as Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly explains in more detail: “Many variegated or other-then-green ivy cultivars will send out reverted stems and new growth that reverts to the species type. “This will usually be more vigorous than the cultivar and will outcompete it. “When spotted, cut reverted stems right back to where it arose from the non-reverted part of the plant.” They’re not simply about tradition, the evergreen, broad-leaved, glossy, fuss-free English Ivy is unquestionably a big statement for your garden. 2) Wisteria BOTANICAL NAME: Wisteria COMMON NAME(S): Chinese Wisteria HARDINESS RATING: H5 / H6 FOLIAGE TYPE: Deciduous FLOWERING SEASON(S): Spring / Summer SUNLIGHT: Full Sun / Partial Shade SOIL PREFERENCE: Any soil type; any pH EXPOSURE: Sheltered From over a hundred varieties of these very popular twining vines, all are fully hardy at H5 or better, and most are widely available. Take your pick from varieties that grow to only 6m or those that grow to 16m, those that display foliage for the greater part of the year, or go all out with foliage and flowers for one season. They also have plentiful flowers, with lush, pendent racemes in gradated pastel pinks and purples that exude a heady fragrance. If you can provide a wisteria vine with a sheltered spot and with well-drained soil that is kept moist, you can enjoy its soothing charms for up to 20 years. 3) Climbing Rose BOTANICAL NAME: Rosa setigera COMMON NAME(S): Climbing Rose HARDINESS RATING: H6 / H7 FOLIAGE TYPE: Deciduous / Evergreen FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer / Autumn SUNLIGHT: Full Sun / Partial Shade SOIL PREFERENCE: Any soil type; Neutral / Alkaline pH EXPOSURE: Exposed / Sheltered Imagine – proper roses growing over your trellis! Climbing roses are fully hardy deciduous perennials with a few evergreens thrown in. Cultivars range in height from 1-8m. All they need is rich, fertile soil and regular watering, perhaps a bit of training, and they’ll bloom for 4 or 5 months straight. Colours include creams, yellows, reds, and blush and tinged tones, and, as you may expect, the vast majority are sweetly fragrant. Cultivars number over a hundred but ‘Aloha,’ ‘Climbing Handel,’ ‘New Dawn,’ ‘Debutante,’ ‘Alister Stella Gray,’ ‘Climbing Iceberg’ and ‘Etoile de Hollande’ are our top picks. 4) Clematis BOTANICAL NAME: Clematis COMMON NAME(S): Traveller’s Joy HARDINESS RATING: H6 (with variation) FOLIAGE TYPE: Deciduous / Evergreen FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer / Autumn (with variation) SUNLIGHT: Full Sun / Partial Shade SOIL PREFERENCE: Any soil type; Neutral / Alkaline pH EXPOSURE: Exposed / Sheltered Clematis are arguably the most beautiful vines but some of these deciduous perennials are clothed in green for fewer than three seasons. These shortish but robust climbers usually produce flowers in the summer while some do so in spring or autumn, additionally or exclusively. All are fully hardy and few have any special requirements. Clematis’ wide-open, star-shaped flowers are very varied in hues and shades, but most are simply stunning and will enhance any garden trellis. They can produce 10-20cm blooms in marvellous tones of reds and purples. ‘Fujimusume’, ‘Comtesse de Bouchaud’, ‘Ernest Markham’, ‘Daniel Deronda’, ‘Niobe’, ‘Prince Charles’ and ‘Perle d’Azur’ are our recommendations – which all have somewhat different foliage and flowering seasons. 5) Climbing Hydrangea BOTANICAL NAME: Hydrangea petiolaris COMMON NAME(S): Climbing Hydrangea HARDINESS RATING: H4 / H5 FOLIAGE TYPE: Deciduous / Evergreen FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer SUNLIGHT: Full Shade / Full Sun / Partial Shade SOIL PREFERENCE: Clay, loam, sand; Acidic / Neutral pH EXPOSURE: Sheltered Plants from three or four genera are informally classed as climbing hydrangea, which works well because they are broadly similar, being woody climbers with brilliant green or dark green ovate or elliptic leaves and bearing types of creamy flowers in the summer. These popular climbers are hardy to H4 or H5. One – Hydrangea viburnoides – is an evergreen, but rises to 8m and another, Hydrangea petiolaris, is deciduous but can cross 12m. Both of these species, as well as the others, are trouble-free, robust, and long-lived plants without special position, exposure, or aspect needs. 6) Honeysuckle BOTANICAL NAME: Lonicera COMMON NAME(S): Honeysuckle HARDINESS RATING: H6 FOLIAGE TYPE: Deciduous / Evergreen FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer FRUIT SEASON(S): Autumn SUNLIGHT: Full Sun / Partial Shade SOIL PREFERENCE: Any soil type; any pH EXPOSURE: Exposed / Sheltered Honeysuckles are one of our top contenders for the best trellis plants going and it’s easy to see why. They rise to 4-8m, are very hardy and are indifferent to position, aspect, and exposure. The foliage is deep, rich green, they bear flowers throughout summer and produce colourful, glossy berries in the autumn. Japanese Honeysuckle, Honeysuckle ‘Graham Thomas’ and Late Dutch Honeysuckle are choice options, producing, respectively, white, creamy-yellow and crimson blooms. The distinctive flowers with their narrow, arched petals and exposed stamens and pistils are so exceptionally fragrant that their scents will waft through half your garden. 7) Chocolate Vine BOTANICAL NAME: Akebia quinata COMMON NAME(S): Chocolate Vine HARDINESS RATING: H6 FOLIAGE TYPE: Semi-Evergreen FLOWERING SEASON(S): Spring / Summer FRUIT SEASON(S): Autumn SUNLIGHT: Full Sun / Partial Shade SOIL PREFERENCE: Any soil type; any pH EXPOSURE: Exposed / Sheltered Chocolate vine varieties attain heights and widths of 8m plus, are semi-evergreen, are very vigorous, and are pest-resistant and disease-free. They are all hardy to H6 and are happy in any position, aspect or exposure. Their brilliant green palmate-arranged leaves set the backdrop for marvellous little maroon-chocolate blooms in thick racemes in the species. ‘Shirobana’ has cream and lavender flowers, ‘Cream-Flowered’ has cream and russet and ‘Amethyst Glow’ has purple. All of them have a rich, nutmeg-like aroma. There is further adornment in autumn in the form of delicately-coloured oblong fruits. 8) Nasturtium BOTANICAL NAME: Tropaeolum COMMON NAME(S): Nasturtium HARDINESS RATING: H3 FOLIAGE TYPE: Deciduous FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer / Autumn SUNLIGHT: Full Sun SOIL PREFERENCE: Clay, sand, loam; any pH EXPOSURE: Exposed / Sheltered Most nasturtiums have long blooming seasons and bear beautiful flowers but they are tender annuals. However, one species, Flame Nasturtium, is hardy to H5. This deciduous climber can reach up to 4m tall and bears brilliant red flowers in summer into autumn, and then colourful blue-hued berries. Semi-hardy to H3 and requiring a sheltered spot, ‘Blue Nasturtium’, ‘Yellow Lark’s Heels’ and ‘Ken Aslet’ will display thick rich foliage and an abundance of blooms, each during a different season. Take your choice from, respectively, lilac-blue in spring, sunny yellow flowers in summer, or orange-and-yellow in summer-autumn. Lovely lobed leaves are a standard issue with this plant. 9) Star Jasmine BOTANICAL NAME: Trachelospermum jasminoides COMMON NAME(S): Star Jasmine / Chinese Jasmine HARDINESS RATING: H4 FOLIAGE TYPE: Evergreen FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer FRUIT SEASON(S): Autumn SUNLIGHT: Full Sun / Partial Shade SOIL PREFERENCE: Chalk, loam, sand; any pH EXPOSURE: Sheltered Boasting perhaps the most ‘classic’ foliage of all climbers, Trachelospermum jasminoides varieties display glossy, elliptic leaves of a deep, brilliant green. ‘Variegatum’ ups the ante with leaves exhibiting sections and splashes of cream. This cultivar and the species’ flowers are pure white, while ‘Selbra’ has yellow-centred cream flowers. ‘Selbra’ rise to about 10m while ‘Variegatum’ is relatively petite, topping out at 4m. All of these varieties are evergreens that add the bonus of summertime scents and wintertime colours. All are semi-hardy at H4, and they will grace your garden for many years if given a sheltered location. 10) Winter Creeper BOTANICAL NAME: Euonymus fortunei COMMON NAME(S): Winter Creeper HARDINESS RATING: H5 FOLIAGE TYPE: Evergreen FLOWERING SEASON(S): Spring FRUIT SEASON(S): Autumn SUNLIGHT: Full Sun / Partial Shade SOIL PREFERENCE: Any soil type; any pH EXPOSURE: Exposed / Sheltered Winter Creepers can shape-shift into climbers, and they make excellent trellis plants because, though they are slow-growing, they are all evergreen and hardy to H5. These plants cover a greater length if grown vertically than they do in length when creeping. All Euonymus fortunei have small ovate leaves and all display some or another variegation in the style of edging or bordering. The species plant’s dark green leaves are dual bordered in narrow cream and yellow, whilst the variety ‘Sunshine’ has a small splotch of green in the middle surrounded by thick bands of sunny yellow. 11) American Wild Climbing Rose BOTANICAL NAME: Rosa setigera COMMON NAME(S): American Wild Climbing Rose HARDINESS RATING: H6 FOLIAGE TYPE: Deciduous FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer FRUIT SEASON(S): Autumn SUNLIGHT: Full Sun / Partial Shade SOIL PREFERENCE: Any soil type; any pH EXPOSURE: Sheltered For a backdrop suggesting American ranches and prairies, you can try American Climbing Wild Rose which is quite different from cultivated climbing roses. It is very hardy at H6 and it is a spare, rangy, open-habit plant from 1.5-3.5m in height. The leaves are the most bright, summery shade of green imaginable and are downy underneath. In summer, this species bears copious quantities of 7cm single flowers with big yellow central disks. These blooms fall in the pink-purple spectrum, often lavender. In autumn there is further colour in the form of glossy scarlet fruit: rose hips. All in all, this is a perfect vine for a cottage garden. 12) Everlasting Pea BOTANICAL NAME: Lathyrus latifolius COMMON NAME(S): Everlasting Pea HARDINESS RATING: H7 FOLIAGE TYPE: Deciduous FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer / Autumn SUNLIGHT: Full Sun / Partial Shade SOIL PREFERENCE: Any soil type; any pH EXPOSURE: Exposed / Sheltered If it’s floral charm you’re looking for in a trellis plant, Lathyrus latifolius is your vine. These deciduous perennial climbers are quite compact at 1.5-2.5m with a narrow spread of about 1m. Though fully hardy at H6 and H7, they prefer a sheltered spot and a southern or western aspect. Everlasting Pea’s laterally symmetrical lobed flowers are seriously charming and the charm is heightened as they are borne in drooping racemes. ‘Rosa Perle’ is pink-flushed, ‘White Pearl’ is pure white, ‘Red Pearl’ is magenta-pink. Their foliage is a brilliant greyish-green. 13) Virginia Creeper BOTANICAL NAME: Parthenocissus quinquefolia COMMON NAME(S): Virginia Creeper HARDINESS RATING: H6 FOLIAGE TYPE: Deciduous FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer FRUIT SEASON(S): Autumn SUNLIGHT: Full Shade / Full Sun / Partial Shade SOIL PREFERENCE: Any soil type; any pH EXPOSURE: Exposed / Sheltered Firstly, Virginia Creepers are designated as invasive non-native species in the UK so care is required.1 Foliage lovers may take the chance, for this climber is all about the leaves, which are palmate with ovate leaflets. ‘Monham’ has marvellously variegated leaves that can vary from entirely green to entirely cream. But it is in autumn that this climber shows spectacular colours. The foliage of P. quinquefolia var. engelmannii turns into a blaze of oranges and even purples, while the species P. quinquefolia produces shiny blackish-blue berries. P. quinquefolia is the biggest at 12m plus, whilst ‘Monham’ is the shortest, reaching heights of up to 8m. All are fully hardy at H6. 14) Common Jasmine BOTANICAL NAME: Jasminum officinale COMMON NAME(S): Common Jasmine HARDINESS RATING: H5 FOLIAGE TYPE: Deciduous FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer / Autumn FRUIT SEASON(S): Autumn SUNLIGHT: Full Sun / Partial Shade SOIL PREFERENCE: Any soil type; any pH EXPOSURE: Sheltered Jasmine comes not only in ‘tree’ form but also as a climbing shrub, and it is a really fast grower. What’s more, this touch of the tropics is very hardy at H5. Two options are Common Jasmine and Stephan Jasmine. They commonly grow to about 6m and thrive in any soil so long as it is free draining and moist. As these are deciduous plants, there is nothing on offer in winter, but you get a vibrant mass of foliage the rest of the year, an abundance of flowers in summer and autumn, plus small berries in the autumn. The heady, exotic fragrance in summer is another present from the East. 15) Hardy Kiwi BOTANICAL NAME: Actinidia arguta COMMON NAME(S): Hardy Kiwi HARDINESS RATING: H5 FOLIAGE TYPE: Deciduous FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer FRUIT SEASON(S): Autumn SUNLIGHT: Full Sun SOIL PREFERENCE: Clay, loam, sand; Acidic / Neutral pH EXPOSURE: Sheltered That’s right, Kiwi plants also come as fully hardy climbing vines; species Actinidia arguta. Its kiwifruits are not the fuzzy kind which are found in stores but are smooth-skinned ones that provide a sweeter taste. The reason they are not available commercially is that these perishable fruits do not keep well. Take any cultivar of Actinidia arguta, such as ‘Ken’s Red’ or ‘Issai,’ which are hardy to H5, plant it in a sunny but sheltered spot, and you’ll have lush green foliage on that trellis. It will be decorated with small creamy flowers in summer and in autumn, you’ll reap a bounty of sweet, delicious, garden-grown kiwifruit. 16) Multi-Leaved Akebia BOTANICAL NAME: Akebia trifoliata / Akebia × pentaphylla COMMON NAME(S): Three-Leaf Akebia / Five-Leaf Akebia HARDINESS RATING: H6 FOLIAGE TYPE: Deciduous / Semi-Evergreen FLOWERING SEASON(S): Spring FRUIT SEASON(S): Autumn (if any) SUNLIGHT: Full Sun / Partial Shade SOIL PREFERENCE: Any soil type; any pH EXPOSURE: Exposed / Sheltered Making up the name ‘Multi-Leafed Akebia’, we introduce two vigorous climbers, Akebia trifoliata and Akebia × pentaphylla. Both rise to about 10m and are nearly as wide. Both are also fully hardy at H6 and have no position, aspect or exposure needs. They have broad, scalloped light green leaves. Imports from the Far East, in spring ‘Multi-Leafed Akebia’ produce small salver-shaped flowers. Their unusual colour spans maroon, purple and chocolate tones but the mild scent is undeniably reminiscent of chocolate. The hybrid is semi-evergreen while the species is deciduous, but the latter produces additional autumn colour in the form of purple berries. 17) Kolomikta BOTANICAL NAME: Actinidia kolomikta COMMON NAME(S): Kolomikta HARDINESS RATING: H5 FOLIAGE TYPE: Deciduous FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer FRUIT SEASON(S): Autumn SUNLIGHT: Full Sun SOIL PREFERENCE: Any soil type; any pH EXPOSURE: Sheltered An exceptional ‘import’ from East Asia, Actinidia kolomikta has unique foliage. It is a vigorous deciduous vine that is fairly hardy at H5. In the UK it needs a sunny but sheltered spot, preferably with a southern aspect. Growing to 5-6m, it is, unusually, almost as wide. Though Actinidia kolomikta produces big white flowers followed by yellow berries, this vine is about beautiful foliage. The perfectly ovate leaves are emerald green and start taking on whites and pinks from the tip inward. The leaves eventually become white, rose pink, or white-and-pink, producing colour effects that are unmatched by other vines. 18) Boston Ivy BOTANICAL NAME: Parthenocissus tricuspidata COMMON NAME(S): Boston Ivy HARDINESS RATING: H5 FOLIAGE TYPE: Deciduous FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer FRUIT SEASON(S): Autumn SUNLIGHT: Full Shade / Full Sun / Partial Shade SOIL PREFERENCE: Any soil type; any pH EXPOSURE: Exposed / Sheltered Boston Ivy and its cultivars are a fuss-free pure foliage play. These deciduous climbers are hardy to H5. The species plant and ‘Fenway Park’ are very robust and fast growing and can exceed 12m. If you want something less massive, try ‘Lowii’, the baby of the family. Boston Ivies have trifoliate leaves except ‘Lowii’ which has palmate leaves. All put on a wonderful autumn show as the foliage turns bright red and even purple. These climbers’ ability to thrive in any position, aspect or exposure is a big plus point. 19) Russian Vine BOTANICAL NAME: Fallopia baldschuanica COMMON NAME(S): Russian Vine HARDINESS RATING: H7 FOLIAGE TYPE: Deciduous FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer FRUIT SEASON(S): Autumn SUNLIGHT: Full Sun / Part Shade SOIL PREFERENCE: Any soil type; any pH EXPOSURE: Sheltered A massive option that is perhaps the fastest growing climber, Russian Vine can attain heights of 10-12m and a spread of about 6m. It is a deciduous woody plant that is fully hardy at H7. It can be grown in any position or aspect but because of its bulkiness, it is wise to site it in a sheltered spot. Russian Vine, also known as ‘Mile a Minute Plant’, has chordate leaves of a rich green shade. In summer it is simply covered with a profusion of pinkish-white little flowers borne in panicles and afterwards, it bears clusters of berries that vary in hue from pink to dull orange. 20) Grape Vine BOTANICAL NAME: Vitis vinifera COMMON NAME(S): Grapevine / Wine Grapevine HARDINESS RATING: H5 FOLIAGE TYPE: Deciduous FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer FRUIT SEASON(S): Autumn SUNLIGHT: Full Sun SOIL PREFERENCE: Chalk, loam, sand; Alkaline / Neutral pH EXPOSURE: Sheltered Grapevine may not be thought of as a plant you can grow in the UK on a trellis, but a few wine grape vines (not dessert grape vines), such as ‘Boskoop Glory’, ‘Muller-Thurgau’ and ‘Frovit’ definitely fit the bill. Many varieties, almost all frost-hardy, are available as potted plants. The mean height range is 5-10m. If you have a sunny and sheltered location in your garden in England, preferably in a not-too-cold region, a wine grape vine will tick the expansive growth box. Most varieties will also bring ornamental value with bronze and red tones in autumn, and a harvest of grapes – and there’s that homemade wine! 21) Trumpet Vine BOTANICAL NAME: Campsis radicans COMMON NAME(S): Trumpet Vine HARDINESS RATING: H4 FOLIAGE TYPE: Deciduous FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer / Autumn FRUIT SEASON(S): SUNLIGHT: Full Sun SOIL PREFERENCE: Any soil type; any pH EXPOSURE: Sheltered Three species of the Campsis genus are lumped together as ‘Trumpet Vine’ and that’s because they bear the most wonderfully shaped trumpet-like flowers through summer and into autumn. The flowers of the three species are red or orange while those of a sub-species, ‘Yellow Trumpet Vine’ are – you guessed it – yellow. They all have bright green serrated leaves. All are vigorous climbers, they can grow up to 8-12m and all are semi-hardy at H4. Sited in full sun and in a sheltered spot, any Trumpet Vine will bring an abundance of vibrant colour for months on end, with our pick being the vermilion-to-scarlet of Campsis radicans. 22) Potato Vine BOTANICAL NAME: Solanum laxum COMMON NAME(S): Potato Vine / Japanese Nightshade HARDINESS RATING: H4 FOLIAGE TYPE: Semi-Evergreen FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer / Autumn SUNLIGHT: Full Sun SOIL PREFERENCE: Chalk, clay, sand; Alkaline / Neutral pH EXPOSURE: Sheltered Japanese Nightshade and its varieties are vigorous climbers reaching 8-9m. They are semi-hardy at H4, and require a sunny, sheltered spot with a southern or eastern aspect. They are also semi-evergreen, so the foliage is on display for almost the whole year in most years. This foliage is rich, deep green and the leaves are ovate or elliptical. Japanese Nightshades bear a profusion of five-petalled star-shaped flowers in thick clusters through summer and part of autumn. These are white or blue-tinged in the species, pure white in ‘Album’ and pale lilac in ‘Coldham’. Their sweet, somewhat exotic scent is the icing on the cake. 23) Potato Tree BOTANICAL NAME: Solanum crispum COMMON NAME(S): Potato Tree HARDINESS RATING: H4 FOLIAGE TYPE: Semi-Evergreen FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer / Autumn FRUIT SEASON(S): Autumn SUNLIGHT: Full Sun SOIL PREFERENCE: Chalk, clay, sand; Alkaline / Neutral pH EXPOSURE: Sheltered So-called Potato Tree is, in fact, a scrambling climber that is not even woody. It grows to about 6m, is semi-hardy at H4, and requires a sheltered and sunny spot. Cultivar ‘Glasnevin’ is very widely available but there is little to choose between it and the species as these climbers are all about year-round colour. They are semi-evergreen and their elliptic leaves are a brilliant green. Star-shaped flowers are borne in thick clusters over a long blooming season in summer and autumn. They vary from lilac to purple and have a complementary yellow centre and there are small yellowish berries in autumn. 24) Hops BOTANICAL NAME: Humulus lupulus COMMON NAME(S): Hop / Common Hop HARDINESS RATING: H6 FOLIAGE TYPE: Deciduous FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer FRUIT SEASON(S): Autumn SUNLIGHT: Full Sun / Partial Shade SOIL PREFERENCE: Any soil type; any pH EXPOSURE: Sheltered Hops are deciduous herbaceous vines and are dioecious, which means that male and female flowers are on separate plants.2 Cultivars vary quite widely in height and growing requirements but all are fully hardy at H6. They even vary in their leaves which may be whole, trifoliate, or palmate, though all serrated. ‘Aureus’ has golden-green leaves and can reach about 6m, ‘Prima Donna’ has yellowish-green leaves and reaches about 3m, while ‘Golden Tassels’ has green-gold leaves and is only about 2.5m. All produce pendent, cone-shaped, scented flowers in summer, and in autumn, hops, which are as pretty as they are aromatic. 25) Crimson Glory Vine BOTANICAL NAME: Vitis coignetiae COMMON NAME(S): Crimson Glory Vine HARDINESS RATING: H5 FOLIAGE TYPE: Deciduous FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer FRUIT SEASON(S): Autumn SUNLIGHT: Full Sun / Partial Shade SOIL PREFERENCE: Chalk, loam, sand; Alkaline / Neutral pH EXPOSURE: Sheltered Crimson Glory Vine is a vigorous option and a massive one, up to 15m in height. The leaves too are comparatively massive at about 30cm. This deciduous vine is very hardy at H5 but it is advisable to grow it in a sheltered position with a south or west-facing aspect. The chordate leaves come into season in autumn showing orange, rust, and red shades, as the climber lives up to its name of ‘Crimson Glory Vine.’ These colours are further enhanced by clusters of little dark blue berries. This import from East Asia is, however, susceptible to several pests and diseases. 26) Chinese Virginia Creeper BOTANICAL NAME: Parthenocissus henryana COMMON NAME(S): Chinese Virginia Creeper HARDINESS RATING: H4 FOLIAGE TYPE: Deciduous FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer FRUIT SEASON(S): Autumn SUNLIGHT: Full Shade / Full Sun / Partial Shade SOIL PREFERENCE: Any soil type; any pH EXPOSURE: Exposed / Sheltered Chinese Virginia Creeper is, in fact, a very vigorous climber that clears 10m in height. It is semi-hardy at H4 but this robust option is indifferent to position, aspect or exposure. It has particularly lush growth and is a great choice to create a wall of foliage. Chinese Virginia Creeper has palmate leaves with a smooth sheen of a bronze-green hue, on which the prominent silver-white venation stands out. In autumn the foliage takes on deep, rich tones of orange and red, with further colour supplied by the deep blue berries. It is disease-resistant and generally pest-free. References 1. Virginia Creeper: Ornamental or Nuisance? (2016, April 25). Anoka County Master Gardeners. Retrieved March 28, 2023, from https://www.anokamastergardeners.org/blog/2016/4/6/virginia-creeper-ornamental-or-nuisance 2. Sirrine, R. (2017, September 26). Why are my hops producing male flowers? MSU Extension. Retrieved March 28, 2023, from https://www.canr.msu.edu/news/why_are_my_hops_producing_male_flowers
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Follow These 3 Steps For Your Alstroemeria Before Winter To Help Them Survive
IN THIS GUIDE 1) Mulch Young Alstroemeria Growing In The Ground 2) Ensure Appropriate Growing Conditions For Mature Plants 3) Move Container-Grown Alstroemerias To A Frost-Free Location References Alstroemerias bear beautiful lily-like flowers over the summer months, sometimes well into autumn. These flowering perennials may look rather exotic, and be native to South America, but they can often be very happy in UK gardens. Most are hardy plants, with a hardiness rating of H4, but to keep them looking good, you will need to provide them with appropriate winter care. Here are the basic things you need to do to keep Alstroemeria alive over the winter months and ensure excellent flowering displays over a number of years: Difficulty Easy Equipment Required Mulch, sheltered spot or greenhouse for container-grown plants 1) Mulch Young Alstroemeria Growing In The Ground While most Alstroemerias can survive winter temperatures as low as -10°C, they may not always be hardy enough to overwinter across all of the UK. In a particularly cold winter, or in chillier or more exposed locations, the tuberous roots can be damaged by the cold. Alstroemerias are more vulnerable during their first couple of seasons when the root systems are somewhat less well established and when roots will not have delved as deeply. To protect young plants over winter when they are growing in the ground, you should layer mulch thickly around the crowds and over the roots to stave off the frost and freeze. A mulched bark, a thick layer of autumn leaves, or another insulating mulch like straw or sheep’s wool could be ideal. A thick organic mulch will not only stave off the cold, but can also help to reduce the chances of waterlogging, and improve the structure of the soil over time. Winter wet can be as much of a danger for these plants, which like free-draining conditions, as the cold.1 2) Ensure Appropriate Growing Conditions For Mature Plants More mature Alstroemerias growing in the ground will usually not need any protection to make it through the winter months unscathed. But remember, it is important that Alstroemerias are placed in a suitable spot for them to overwinter successfully and burst back into new growth in spring. Before winter, make sure that you analyse the conditions in which mature Alstroemerias are growing. Make sure that they are not growing in an excessively cold area such as a frost pocket or a very exposed location. And, most crucially, make sure that the soil in which they are growing drains freely, and that the roots will not sit in damp and waterlogged conditions. High winter rainfall can cause problems where the soil does not allow that water to drain away relatively quickly. 3) Move Container-Grown Alstroemerias To A Frost-Free Location Unlike Alstroemerias growing in the ground, container-grown plants will not usually be able to remain outdoors over the winter months. One problem is that roots in a container are not protected from the cold by the mass of soil around them. They are more exposed to cold temperatures than roots within the soil in the ground. Another issue is that containers can more easily become waterlogged during periods of higher winter precipitation, meaning the roots may be more prone to rotting.2 For these reasons, Alstroemerias grown in pots should be moved into a frost-free location for the winter months. An unheated greenhouse or cool porch space is ideal. If such as space is not available, you may get away with placing pots on their sides once the plants become dormant, and placing them in a sheltered spot outdoors. “I always make a point of trying to learn the microclimate of a garden – the cooler, shadier spots in summer, and warmer, sheltered spots in winter, for example,” says Colin Skelly, Master Horticulturist. “If there is a part of the garden that is less frost prone (in the lee of a wall perhaps, or under a tree or large shrub), then pots might successfully be overwintered in that location.” You might insulate the container to keep the roots safe from hard freezes. But if you can, moving container-grown Alstroemerias undercover for winter is generally the approach which will yield the best results. References 1. Wet soils: plants for. (n.d.). Royal Horticultural Society. Retrieved March 9, 2023, from https://www.rhs.org.uk/plants/for-places/wet-soils 2. Waterlogging and flooding. (n.d.). Royal Horticultural Society. Retrieved March 9, 2023, from https://www.rhs.org.uk/soil-composts-mulches/waterlogging-flooding
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Solutions To 4 Common Alstroemeria Problems, From Master Horticulturists
IN THIS GUIDE 1) Issues With Winter Cold 2) Water-Related Problems 3) Slugs And Snails 4) Viruses And Fungal Diseases References Alstroemeria is generally a relatively trouble-free plant to grow, as long as it is grown in appropriate conditions and cared for correctly. It will generally flower well and can do so successfully over a number of years, brightening up your garden with its vibrant, lily-like flowers. However, there are several common problems that you might encounter when growing these plants. Read on to learn more about the common issues for Alstroemerias and how to tackle them: 1) Issues With Winter Cold While Alstroemerias are generally hardy plants, problems can arise due to excessive exposure to winter cold. When growing Alstroemeria in a bed or border in the ground, you should find that while the plant dies back over winter, the roots survive to generate new growth in spring. However, care should be taken when positioning these plants, so they are not in an overly exposed location or a frost pocket. You should mulch well around the plants for the first couple of years, as younger plants will not have had time to develop deeper roots and are more susceptible to the cold. When growing Alstroemerias in containers, these should ideally be brought into a cool porch or unheated greenhouse to keep them frost free. This is because roots in a container will not have the protection of the surrounding soil and can be damaged by cold temperatures more easily. If Alstroemeria is damaged by cold, it may not grow or flower as well the following season, or it may even fail to come back all together. 2) Water-Related Problems As well as winter cold, winter wet can also cause problems for Alstroemerias. Higher rainfall over the winter months can increase the chances of waterlogging. Careful positioning and appropriate winter care, as discussed above, will help protect the plants from this problem. Poor drainage or excessive watering can also cause water-logging issues throughout the rest of the year, so when growing in a border, make sure the soil is suitably free-draining. When growing in a container, make sure there are good drainage holes at the base. Add grit to your peat-free, soil-based medium to ensure that you have a suitable free-draining potting mix. Unfortunately, the fleshy roots of Alstroemerias can be rather prone to rotting in damp conditions.1 This is one of the most common issues experienced with these plants. 3) Slugs And Snails Young Alstroemerias are also vulnerable to pests. Slugs and snails are the most common issue and these pests can gorge on young plants, weakening and even destroying them altogether. Make sure that you keep the numbers of these pests down by attracting their natural predators to your garden. Attract birds, like thrushes, and hedgehogs, for example. You can pick off these pests by hand. Going out with a torch in the evening will mean that you stand a good chance of catching these pests in the act. Also, remember to check under the rims of pots or containers, where these creatures are likely to be hiding. Create barriers around pots or young plants to keep these pests away. Despite some myths, there are several ways to keep slugs and snails away from your tender young plant, but if there is a serious infestation where you live, consider using slug traps and/or introducing biological controls as a last resort. Slug pellets should certainly not be used in an organic garden, as they can harm a range of other wildlife.2 4) Viruses And Fungal Diseases Alstroemerias are not usually troubled excessively by diseases. However, there are certain viruses that can occasionally pose a problem, such as mosaic virus. Mosaic virus causes mottling patterns on the leaves and is spread by insects.3 Alstroemerias may also occasionally have fungal issues, such as leaf spot, fusarium wilt, or anthracnose-related diseases. You may see spotting on leaves, or mould growing around and on the roots. Preventing waterlogging and overcrowding, and growing these plants in suitably sunny and free draining conditions will significantly reduce the chances of experiencing any issues. “It is always tempting to plant too close together when setting out new planting,” warns qualified Horticulturist Colin Skelly when advising how to avoid problems in future. “Use a tape measure to set out the plants to their eventual dimensions. “Include some temporary plants that will be used elsewhere later or some annuals if you feel that it looks too bare. “This will prevent plants from restricting each other with losses due to competition for light and nutrients and fungal diseases due to lack of air movement.” Good garden hygiene will also reduce the incidence of disease on your plants. If you grow Alstroemerias in the right location and care for these plants correctly, you should usually find them a reasonably easy and hassle-free perennial flowering plant to grow. References 1. Phytophthora root rot. (n.d.). Royal Horticultural Society. Retrieved March 9, 2023, from https://www.rhs.org.uk/disease/phytophthora-root-rot 2. Slugs. (n.d.). Royal Horticultural Society. Retrieved March 9, 2023, from https://www.rhs.org.uk/biodiversity/slugs 3. Cucumber mosaic virus. (n.d.). Royal Horticultural Society. Retrieved March 9, 2023, from https://www.rhs.org.uk/disease/cucumber-mosaic-virus
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Any Of These 20 Peruvian Lily Types Work Well In Summer Borders Or Containers
IN THIS GUIDE 1) A. ‘Apollo’ 2) A. psittacina ‘Royal Star’ 3) A. ‘Cahors’ (Planet Series) 4) A. ‘Coronet’ 5) A. ‘Friendship’ 6) A. Indian Summer (‘Tesronto’PBR) 7) A. Inticancha Passion (‘Tespassion’PBR) 8) A. aurea ‘Lutea’ 9) A. ‘Orange Glory’ 10) A. ‘Oriana’ 11) A. ‘Phoenix’ 12) A. ‘Red Elf’ 13) A. Rock ‘n’ Roll (‘Alsdun01’PBR) 14) A. ‘Saturne’ (Planet Series) 15) A. ‘Sirius’ (Planet Series) 16) A. ‘Sonata’ 17) A. ‘Spitfire’ 18) A. Summer Snow (‘Gasumsnow’) 19) A. ‘Tessa’ 20) A. ‘Yellow Friendship’ References Also referred to as Peruvian lilies, Alstroemerias are a popular choice for UK gardens. They work very well either in summer borders or in containers, and there are many modern cultivars that you can choose from. In fact, the array of options when trying to choose Alstroemerias for your garden can be somewhat overwhelming. When choosing between these plants, it can be helpful to think about: Where you wish to grow it (in the ground or in a container) The height of a particular cultivar The colours of the blooms and foliage (and your personal preferences in regard to these things) Horticulturist Colin Skelly professes his love for Peruvian Lilies: “I use Alstroemerias to create bold, contrasting colour matches as their bright colours lend themselves to this, particularly as they flower at the height of summer when many other showy flowers are blooming.” “However, you may wish to combine them harmoniously with other plants. “Use a colour wheel – colours opposite to each other will contrast whilst those next to each other will harmonise.” In order to help you narrow down your choices, we’ve devised this list of interesting and beautiful Alstroemerias to grow: 1) A. ‘Apollo’ COMMON NAME(S): Peruvian Lily ‘Apollo’ HARDINESS RATING: H4 FLOWER(S): White, brown and yellow FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer ‘Apollo’ is an attractive Alstroemeria which grows to around 1m in height. It has flowers which have yellow centres and pure white edges, streaked with brown. 2) A. psittacina ‘Royal Star’ COMMON NAME(S): Peruvian Lily ‘Royal Star’ HARDINESS RATING: H4 FLOWER(S): Red and Green FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer This clump-forming tuberous perennial grows to around 90cm in height. The blooms of this type of Alstroemeria are red and funnel-shaped, with green tips and deeper red markings. The leaves have irregular white fringes around their edges. 3) A. ‘Cahors’ (Planet Series) COMMON NAME(S): Peruvian Lily ‘Cahors’ HARDINESS RATING: H4 FLOWER(S): Yellow and red FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer / Autumn Several options in the Planet series of Alstroemeria make it onto our list. These are very popular Alstroemeria varieties, which are widely available for sale in the UK.1 Cahors also grows up to around 90cm in height. Its mid-tone green, lance-shaped leaves set its yellow, red-streaked and deep pink flowers off to great effect. 4) A. ‘Coronet’ COMMON NAME(S): Peruvian Lily ‘Coronet’ HARDINESS RATING: H4 FLOWER(S): Pink, brown and yellow FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer This larger, dramatic Alstroemeria can grow up to around 1.4m in height. Its flowers are a vibrant salmon pinkish-peach shade, with a yellow flare, brown-streaked, within. 5) A. ‘Friendship’ COMMON NAME(S): Peruvian Lily ‘Friendship’ HARDINESS RATING: H5 FLOWER(S): Cream, pink and yellow FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer ‘Friendship’ is somewhat hardier than the other options on this list, with a hardiness rating of H5 rather than H4 like most Alstroemeria.2 It can grow to around a metre in height and bears blooms of a lovely creamy yellow, flushed with pink, and with brown streaks towards the centres. 6) A. Indian Summer (‘Tesronto’PBR) COMMON NAME(S): Peruvian Lily HARDINESS RATING: H4 FLOWER(S): Orange, red and yellow FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer / Autumn In the Summer Paradise Series, this Alstroemeria is another of the most popular cultivars in the UK, growing up to 1m tall.3 It has dark green to dark purple lanceolate leaves, and funnel shaped flowers which are a lovely fiery orange-yellow, with red marking and some brown streaks inside. 7) A. Inticancha Passion (‘Tespassion’PBR) COMMON NAME(S): Peruvian Lily HARDINESS RATING: H4 FLOWER(S): White and purple FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer / Autumn The Inticancha Passion is part of another Series of Alstroemeria cultivars which are much smaller and shorter than other varieties. They grow only around 30cm high with a similar spread, and so can be ideal for containers, or for the front of a border. There are several other different options to choose from within this series, with flowers in a range of different hues. 8) A. aurea ‘Lutea’ COMMON NAME(S): Alstroemeria aurea yellow HARDINESS RATING: H4 FLOWER(S): Yellow and brown FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer Alstroemeria aurea ‘Lutea’ is a slightly taller option that grows to a height of 1-1.2m. It has vivid, bright yellow flowers, which are specked with brown. 9) A. ‘Orange Glory’ COMMON NAME(S): Peruvian Lily ‘Orange Glory’ HARDINESS RATING: H4 FLOWER(S): Brown, orange and yellow FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer Also growing to around the same height, about 1 to 1.2m, this cultivar, as the name implies, has bright orange blooms. These are blotched with a cheery yellow colour. 10) A. ‘Oriana’ COMMON NAME(S): Peruvian Lily ‘Oriana’ HARDINESS RATING: H4 FLOWER(S): Brown, pink and yellow FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer / Autumn This is another more compact Alstroemeria, which will not usually exceed 50cm in height or spread. It is another excellent option for containers. It has funnel shaped flowers in a deep pink hue, with yellow inner petals with deep pink tips and brown dashes. 11) A. ‘Phoenix’ COMMON NAME(S): Peruvian Lily ‘Phoenix’ HARDINESS RATING: H4 FLOWER(S): Red and yellow FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer / Autumn The startling blooms of this cultivar are a glorious rosy red with deeper red streaks, with yellow blotches on the innermost two petals, which are speckled with small dark streaks. The foliage is variegated, with mid-green cores, pale green and creamy borders, and is tinged with pink in spring. 12) A. ‘Red Elf’ COMMON NAME(S): Peruvian Lily ‘Red Elf’ HARDINESS RATING: H4 FLOWER(S): Red FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer / Autumn Another deep red option, these predominantly red flowers have orange blushes towards the centre, dappled with dark black streaks. 13) A. Rock ‘n’ Roll (‘Alsdun01’PBR) COMMON NAME(S): Peruvian Lily HARDINESS RATING: H4 FLOWER(S): Red and yellow FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer / Autumn This variety is prized not only for its beautiful deep red flowers,with their yellow, dark streaked blushes, but also for its foliage. New shoots are yellow, stems turning white, and the leaves are a vibrant white, with green streaks and edges.4 The flowers can grow up to around 1.5m in height. 14) A. ‘Saturne’ (Planet Series) COMMON NAME(S): Peruvian Lily ‘Saturne’ HARDINESS RATING: H4 FLOWER(S): Pink FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer ‘Saturne’ is another popular option within the Planet Series. This Alstroemeria has coral-pink outer petals, kissed with a deeper pink, and inner petals of a golden yellow hue, speckled with dark, earthy red. It can grow to around 60-70cm in height. 15) A. ‘Sirius’ (Planet Series) COMMON NAME(S): Peruvian Lily ‘Sirius’ HARDINESS RATING: H4 FLOWER(S): Pink and yellow FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer / Autumn ‘Sirius’ is another popular choice within the Planet Series of Alstroemeria. It has vibrant pink flowers, with some darker reddish streaks on yellow flashes in the centre of each flower. 16) A. ‘Sonata’ COMMON NAME(S): Peruvian Lily ‘Sonata’ HARDINESS RATING: H4 FLOWER(S): Red and yellow FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer / Autumn ‘Sonata’ is another highly regarded Alstroemeria cultivar. It grows to a height of around a metre and has bright red flowers. The inner petals have yellow patches and dark red streaks. 17) A. ‘Spitfire’ COMMON NAME(S): Peruvian Lily ‘Spitfire’ HARDINESS RATING: H4 FLOWER(S): Red and yellow FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer / Autumn ‘Spitfire’ is another warm and vibrant Alstroemeria to consider. It grows to a height of 90cm and has orangey-red flowers with bright yellow flares inside, mottled with darker streaks. The variegated leaves are also attractive, with green centres and yellowy cream edges. 18) A. Summer Snow (‘Gasumsnow’) COMMON NAME(S): Peruvian Lily HARDINESS RATING: H4 FLOWER(S): Yellow FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer / Autumn This is a relatively new cultivar, with creamy white blooms.5 It grows to a height of around 70cm and spread of around 50cm. The flowers are born freely and continuously through the summer and often well into autumn. This is another option within the Summer Paradise Series of Alstroemeria. 19) A. ‘Tessa’ COMMON NAME(S): Peruvian Lily ‘Tessa’ HARDINESS RATING: H4 FLOWER(S): Yellow and red FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer / Autumn Another taller Alstroemeria, growing up to around 1.2m in height on average. ‘Tessa’ has red flowers, with dark red streaks, and small yellow blotches on the upper two inner petals. 20) A. ‘Yellow Friendship’ COMMON NAME(S): Peruvian Lily ‘Yellow Friendship’ HARDINESS RATING: H4 FLOWER(S): Yellow FLOWERING SEASON(S): Summer / Autumn ‘Yellow Friendship’ is not H5 hardy like the original ‘Friendship’, but it is another great choice to consider. Like all the other Alstroemeria on this list, it is H4 hardy. It has outer petals of a light, lemony-yellow shade and brighter yellow inner petals that are streaked with dashes of dark brown. Of course, the options outlined in this list are by no means your only options. There are plenty of other beautiful varieties to consider, but the options here are a great place to start, as these represent the cream of the crop for Alstroemeria to grow in the UK. References 1. Alstroemeria Planet Series. (n.d.). Royal Horticultural Society. Retrieved March 9, 2023, from https://www.rhs.org.uk/plants/374460/alstroemeria-planet-series/details 2. Alstroemeria “Friendship.” (n.d.). Royal Horticultural Society. Retrieved March 9, 2023, from https://www.rhs.org.uk/plants/119424/alstroemeria-friendship/details 3. Alstroemeria Indian Summer. (n.d.). Royal Horticultural Society. Retrieved March 9, 2023, from https://www.rhs.org.uk/plants/315669/i-alstroemeria-i-font-face-times-new-roman-indian-summer-font-tesronto-sup-(pbr)-sup-(summer-paradise-series)/details 4. Alstroemeria “Rock ‘n’ Roll.” (n.d.). Royal Horticultural Society. Retrieved March 9, 2023, from https://www.rhs.org.uk/plants/311959/alstroemeria-rock-n-roll-(-alsdun01-pbr)-(v)/details 5. Alstroemeria Summer Snow. (n.d.). Royal Horticultural Society. Retrieved March 9, 2023, from https://www.rhs.org.uk/plants/358745/alstroemeria-summer-snow-gasumsnow-(summer-paradise-series)/details
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Container Grown Alstroemeria? It's Possible, But Plants Will Be More Vulnerable To Cold
IN THIS GUIDE Can You Grow Alstroemeria In Pots? Choosing A Container Choosing A Compost Or Potting Mix Potting Up Alstroemeria Potted Alstroemeria Care Peruvian lilies, also known as Alstroemeria, are vibrant and exotic-looking perennials which can work very well in containers. Growing Alstroemerias in containers can be a great idea, but it is important to understand the care and conditions that these South American plants require. You’ll need to provide those conditions and care so that the plants flower well and remain happy and healthy. Can You Grow Alstroemeria In Pots? Yes, these plants can be a good choice for container growing and they can thrive in suitable pots. However, it is worth noting that although these plants can sometimes survive a winter in the ground, container-grown plants will need to be taken under cover during the winter months. Most Alstroemerias are H4 hardy, which means that they can be damaged in more extreme winters and when grown in chillier or more exposed parts of the UK. Plants in containers are more vulnerable to cold because they do not have the protection of the ground around them, and bulb-like tubers are more likely to be impacted. High winter rainfall can also cause problems with saturation and waterlogging. To combat this, you will need to have a cool porch or unheated greenhouse in which to place them to keep them protected from the effects of frost. Smaller, shorter Alstroemeria are usually a better choice for container growing. Make sure you understand how tall the cultivar you are considering will ultimately grow. Height is one of the key considerations when choosing Alstroemeria, especially when you plan to grow them in containers. Choosing A Container When choosing a container for Alstroemeria, it is important to note that they require free draining conditions. Any container that you choose should allow for the free drainage of excess water through the base. Alstroemeria does best when their roots are given the opportunity to spread. A container of at least 40cm in diameter should usually be selected for mature plants, but for smaller specimens, be sure not to over-pot, as this can cause waterlogging. Choose a container slightly larger than the existing root system then pot up as the plant grows, choosing a slightly larger container each time. While there are a number of different containers that you could choose, terracotta pots are sturdy yet have some porosity and will complement the vibrant hues of the flowers. Choosing A Compost Or Potting Mix Fill your chosen container with a good quality, peat-free soil-based compost with 20% grit added by volume to improve drainage. “I use propagating bark to aid free drainage of growing media,” suggests Horticulturist Colin Skelly. “[This] is also great for mulching the top of pots to retain moisture and keep down weeds.” It can also be a good idea to add mulch over the top of the compost to retain moisture and to stop spot water from pooling on top of the growing medium. Potting Up Alstroemeria Alstroemeria is usually placed into containers (or into borders) in spring. Plants will usually need to be repotted into a slightly larger container (or divided) every couple of years. How Many Can You Plant Per Pot? It is best to plant just a single Alstroemeria per container since they can clump out quite quickly. However, remember that you can consider growing Alstroemeria in larger containers alongside other plants which like the same conditions, but will not be overly competitive. Potted Alstroemeria Care Alstroemeria, when provided with the right growing conditions, is pretty easy to care for. You should be able to enjoy your plants over a number of years, as long as you care for them correctly. Here are some things to look out for after you have planted your Alstroemerias in pots: Place pots in a sunny and sheltered position Water regularly during the growing season (remember that plants in containers will dry out more quickly – just make sure excess water can always drain away!) Feed container-grown Alstroemeria with a potassium-rich organic liquid plant feed (such as comfrey tea) from the arrival of the first buds right through the growing season Taller cultivars of Alstroemeria may need support – so place sticks, stakes or other appropriate support structures where these are required Protect younger plants from slugs and snails, which can sometimes be an issue When harvesting flowers for floral arrangements, or when deadheading, pull stems from the base rather than cutting, as this stimulates new growth Move your plants to a frost-free location such as a cool porch or unheated greenhouse for the winter months
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Dierama From Seed - Beware It Can Take Up To 5 Years From Sowing To Flowering
IN THIS GUIDE 1) Collect Dierama Seed 2) Prepare Trays & Sow 3) Place In A Sheltered Spot 4) Prick Out & Pot On Seedlings 5) Overwinter Then Plant Out Dierama are delicate South African plants, also known as Angel’s Fishing Rods or Wandflowers. They are a perennial which can look great among other perennials and ornamental grasses, with their bell-shaped flowers hanging from thin and arching stems. Dierama can be purchased as potted plants, or grown from bulb-like corms. New plants can also be propagated by means of division of mature clumps, but if you are an experienced gardener, you might also consider taking on the challenge of growing Dierama from seed. Difficulty Hard Equipment Required Seeds, pots or seed trays, potting medium, propagator, cold frame, greenhouse(?) When To Sow August – September When To Plant Out May – June If you are considering growing Dierama from seed, it is important to note that it can take up to 5 years or so from sowing seeds to flowering. So you should not expect to quickly enjoy their blooms in your garden if you do choose to propagate the plants in this way. You should also note that Dierama plants which are grown from seed may differ slightly from the parent plant if other cultivars are growing close by. If you are not deterred, the process of growing Dierama from seed is actually relatively straightforward – it is just the time to maturity which makes this a difficult task. To grow Dierama from seed: Collect seed from a mature Dierama as soon as they ripen in late summer or early autumn. Sow the seeds immediately into small pots or seed trays of seed compost. Place the pots or trays into a cold frame for germination to take place. After a few months, the seedlings should have emerged – and can be pricked out and potted on. Grow on the seedlings in frost-free conditions, then plant out the following spring. Read on for further guidelines to help you with this process. 1) Collect Dierama Seed Dierama which are mature and flowering will produce a lot of seed, which you can collect once it is ripe. Collect seeds on a dry, calm day and place them in a paper envelope so they are kept dry.. 2) Prepare Trays & Sow Prepare seed trays or small pots – fill these with John Innes Seed Compost or a similar homemade seed starting mix. A propagator can be useful, as Dierama will germinate best when the medium is at around 17°C. Moisten the medium before sowing – seeds should be placed on the surface of the medium and covered only very lightly if at all, as they need gentle light to germinate. “If the seeds do not germinate after a few weeks, they can be ‘cold stratified’ by being placed in the fridge for 4 weeks and then brought back to a temperature of 12-18°C, after which germination should occur after 4-8 weeks,” says Master Horticulturist Roy Nicol. 3) Place In A Sheltered Spot Place the trays or pots into a cool yet frost-free location, which is reasonably bright, but out of direct sunlight. A cold frame can be the ideal spot. Be patient! Dierama germination can be erratic and it can take anywhere between around a month and four months for germination to take place. Do not give up too soon if you do not see results quickly. As you wait for germination to take place, make sure that you keep the medium moist – but take care not to overwater and avoid saturation. 4) Prick Out & Pot On Seedlings When germination does finally take place, as soon as seedlings are large enough to handle, prick them out and pot them on into their own individual 7cm pots. 5) Overwinter Then Plant Out Grow your Dierama seedlings in a frost-free location such as a greenhouse until the spring. After the last frost date in your area, in around May or June, you can plant out your young Dierama plants into their final growing positions in your garden. But remember, you are unlikely to see flowers for quite some time – the Dierama may take five years to flower. Be sure to choose the right location for planting out. Dierama requires plenty of warmth and moist yet free-draining soil conditions, and will not thrive in a chilly, shaded or waterlogged spot. Both heavy clay soils and light and sandy ones should be enriched with plenty of well-rotted organic matter before planting.
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16 Sublime Dierama Varieties With Mostly Pink, White And Red Flowers
IN THIS GUIDE 1) D. pendulum 2) D. pulcherrimum 3) D. jucundum 4) D. igneum 5) D. robustum 6) D. pauciflorum 7) D. reynoldsii 8) D. erectum 9) D. dracomontanum 10) D. mossii 11) D. trichorhizum 12) D. pulcherrimum ‘Blackbird’ 13) D. pulcherrimum ‘Blackberry Bells’ 14) D. pulcherrimum var. album 15) D. ‘Guinevere’ 16) D. luteoalbidum References With their more than passing resemblance to fishing rods when in bloom, Dieramas look nothing so much as plants out of a fantasyland fairy garden and they will be a delight to both young and old. Here are sixteen commonly grown varieties with a sweetly charming habit: 1) D. pendulum Common Name: Fairy Bell From the Eastern Cape. Overhanging dense clumps of foliage, flower stalks are a full 1m long and the blooms’ hues vary from pale pink to bright, brilliant pink. 2) D. pulcherrimum Common Name: Angel’s Fishing Rod Found in a wide swath of land in South Africa. It is a comparatively dense plant with good spread, bearing many flower stalks of just over 1m. Flowers are a bright pink-purple. 3) D. jucundum Common Name: Delightful Wandflower From the Cape of South Africa. It tops out at about 1m and its stalks are even wirier than the norm. It produces comparatively smaller flowers but they are more flared open than most and are of a brilliant, deep pink-magenta colour. 4) D. igneum Common Name: Fiery Wandflower Native to a few countries in South-Eastern Africa. At 30-70cm it is one of the shorter and smaller species but produces foliage and flower stalks quite densely. Flowers are a bright rosy pink. 5) D. robustum Common Name: Robust Wandflower From South Africa and Lesotho. Its name refers to its stalks’ great height as they are typically between one and 1.5m. Making a fine contrast with anything ‘robust’ are the bells which are wholly pendent and in the most demure shade of pastel pink. 6) D. pauciflorum Common Name: Few-Flowered Wandflower Native to a large swath of land in Southern and East Africa. The plant itself is not large and is of a dwarf type, rising to only 30-40cm; the flower stalks merely peeking past the foliage. Drooping bells are of a bright candy pink colour. 7) D. reynoldsii Hails from the highlands of KwaZulu Natal in the Eastern Cape of South Africa. It is a tall species, with flower stalks reaching about 2m tall.1 The flowers, perfectly bell-shaped, are uncommon, being of a rich wine-red tone. 8) D. erectum Also hails from KwaZulu Natal but makes its habitats in lowlands near rivers and streams. Though its flowers are the ‘normal’ pink-purple colour, it too is an uncommon species. First, with flower stalks rising to over 1m and up to 1.5m, it is a giant. Next, it is virtually unique among Dierama for bearing erect spikes of upward- or outward-facing flowers. 9) D. dracomontanum Common Name: Drakensberg Wandflower Grows in South Africa and Lesotho and most particularly in the Drakensberg Mountains. It is a montane species. Flower stalks do not arc as much as most other species, especially as they grow to only about 60cm. The blooms are smaller than most and are of a bright salmon pink to coral pink hue. 10) D. mossii Common Name: Moss’s Wandflower Grows in most of South Africa. It is a dwarf species as its flower stalks are only 40-50cm. Though they are comparatively short, they arc gracefully. Flowers are narrow bells and of a vibrant purplish-pink tone. 11) D. trichorhizum Common Name: Hairy-Rooted Wandflower Hails from the highlands of South Africa and Lesotho. It too is a dwarf with flower stalks of only 30-40cm, which do not arc much. Its flowers too are narrow and bell-like, and are mauve-pink. 12) D. pulcherrimum ‘Blackbird’ Similar to the species with the difference that the flowers’ tones are from a deep fuschia to a wine-purple tone, making it an eye-catching variety. 13) D. pulcherrimum ‘Blackberry Bells’ Similar to the species with the difference that the flowers’ tones are from a pink-purple to rich, deep purple, making this an eye-catching variety as well. 14) D. pulcherrimum var. album Common Names: White Angel’s Fishing Rod; D. ’Snowbells’ Similar to the species with the difference that the flowers are pure white. Because of the uncommon colour it is one of the most desirable Dierama varieties. 15) D. ‘Guinevere’ Produces stalks of a little over 1m in height over the foliage of about 1m. The flowers are more flared open than most and are pink-tinged or pink-flushed white. 16) D. luteoalbidum Found only in KwaZulu Natal in the Eastern Cape of South Africa, and not in abundance.2 In fact, it is an endangered species.3 It is rare because of its endangered status and also because of the colour of its flowers which is a pale lemon-yellow progressing to yellowish-white. As Dierama plants are becoming more and more appreciated in the United Kingdom, nurseries specialising in bulbs and rhizomes are developing their own hybrids and cultivars including bicoloured ones. References 1. Dierama reynoldsii. (n.d.). PlantZAfrica. Retrieved June 5, 2023, from http://pza.sanbi.org/dierama-reynoldsii 2. Dierama luteoalbidum. (n.d.). Kew Royal Botanic Gardens. Retrieved March 15, 2023, from https://powo.science.kew.org/taxon/urn:lsid:ipni.org:names:436848-1 3. Fennell, C. (2022, March 28). Dierama luteoalbidum. Academia. Retrieved March 15, 2023, from https://www.academia.edu/1563260/Dierama_luteoalbidum_Liquid_culture_provides_an_efficient_system_for_the_ex_situ_conservation_of_an_endangered_and_horticulturally_valuable_plant
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