Growing
Growing ZZ Plant With Jane Perrone: It's Low Care And Highly Tolerant Of A Lack Of Watering
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Why Grow Zamioculcas zamiifolia? Habitat & Growing Conditions Container Growing Plant Care Propagation References Zamioculcas zamiifolia, as well as being a terrible tongue twister, is an evergreen perennial that works well as a houseplant because it is very tolerant of neglect. Also known as ‘ZZ Plant’, ‘Zanzibar Gem’ and ‘Fern Alum’, this plant is excellent for those who don’t necessarily have the best track record when it comes to keeping houseplants alive. Its large water-storing rhizomes mean that it is tolerant of a lack of watering, and it can thrive in a range of conditions inside your home, as Jane Perrone, houseplant expert, explains: “I’d always recommend Zamioculcas zamiifolia to a beginner, as it is a fascinating plant that is really tough to kill. “The only way you might kill it is if you are too generous with watering it. It’s a really nice plant, easy to grow and can take a lot of droughts.” Overview Botanical Name Zamioculcas zamiifolia Common Name(s) ZZ Plant, Zanzibar Gem, Fern Alum Plant Type Houseplant Native Area East African Tropics Hardiness Rating H1A Foliage Architectural, sprawling foliage When To Sow Year-Round ZZ plant is an evergreen perennial plant native to the East African Tropics.1 It is thought to originate primarily in Tanzania and Kenya, but grows widely across Central Africa and the east African coast. In its natural environment, it is found in rocky soil in lowlands and the foothills of Highland regions. In its native range, it is habituated to (and can thrive) when exposed to long periods of very dry weather with sporadic torrential downpours. ‘Reservoirs’ within the plant allow it to rapidly store water, and draw upon it for long periods of time – making it highly tolerant of infrequent watering. It has smooth, shiny green leaves that rise vertically, with 6-8 pairs of leaflets on each one. One or two un-showy green and white flowers (like those of an arum) may appear among the leaf bases in summer, followed by white berries. Why Grow Zamioculcas zamiifolia? In recent years, ZZ plant has most certainly become more popular in homes and office spaces. It is highly regarded for its strong architectural and dramatic form and is also prized for its ability to thrive with little water and in a range of different interior climate conditions. If you are rather forgetful with your watering habits, you might find that this plant could even thrive when given infrequent watering. It also grows relatively slowly, so there are few concerns that it will outgrow a space (especially if you are limited on this front). Habitat & Growing Conditions ZZ Plant can be great on coffee tables, on desks, or in other locations in interior design. “The ZZ plant is the quintessential coffee table or desk plant for your office,” says Horticultural Consultant Colin Skelly. “It will tolerate irregular watering, in fact, it will prefer this over overwatering. It will also tolerate anything but very strong light. A perfect plant for the beginner or those who think they always kill plants.” Temperature This is a plant that can grow in low light or much brighter conditions. It requires temperatures above 8°C to survive – though typically a healthy plant should not be kept in conditions below 15°C – and it grows best in temperatures between 15-24°C. Sunlight ZZ plant can be slower to grow where there is not as much sunlight. This means that bright light will generally lead to larger plants (with long leaves with leaflets that are up to 2-3 ft long). However, where there is more light, more water will be needed – and it is best to avoid direct sunlight. Due to its larger form, ZZ plant should be positioned where it has space above it to grow; it can look good on a table or desk display. Humidity The humidity levels that are typical for a domestic property should work well for this plant – but if the heating system is particularly drying, it may be a good idea to mist to increase air humidity. Container Growing In terms of the container you choose, it is essential to choose containers which have good drainage holes at the bottom. ZZ plant can tolerate a lot, but it will not like having ‘wet feet’. The container should allow water to drain freely. A clay pot can be ideal because it will dry out more easily; a plastic pot (in addition to being a less eco-friendly choice) can increase water retention, which can potentially cause problems for the roots of this drought-tolerant plant. Another reason that a clay pot could be a good idea is that it is heavier, so will be less likely to tip over as your ZZ Plant grows vertically. Do not choose a pot that is oversized for your plant – aim for around an inch of space around the root system. Pot up your plant once a year in early spring – this is especially important during the first 3-5 years of the plant’s growth. Less frequent repotting will be required for more mature plants. To fill the container, choose a well-draining potting mix; a homemade compost or leaf mould mix with plenty of sharp sand or grit mixed in. Plant Care ZZ Plant, as mentioned above, is extremely easy to care for. Watering If you have struggled before with houseplants due to lack of watering – you may have more luck with this plant because it will tend to survive even the most neglectful of indoor gardeners. There is just one key thing to remember: the more light your ZZ plant gets, the more water it needs. If your plant is positioned in lower light conditions, you should reduce your watering accordingly. The main way that you could go wrong is simply by watering too much. Less is more when it comes to watering this type of houseplant – one thing that ZZ plant most definitely won’t like is having too much water in the growing medium around its roots for too long. Allow the growing medium to become dry at the top to the touch before watering again: simply poke a finger into the top of the pot or container. If there is any moisture detectable, wait a little longer before you water again. Note – a few lower leaves turning yellow is normal. However, if many leaves are yellowing, this may be a sign that you are watering too much. Mulching It can be a good idea to use grit or another soil cover on the top of the growing medium around your plants, to improve drainage and make sure that water does not pool on the surface around your plant. This can also help prevent the growing medium from splashing up onto the lower leaves when you water. You could also use a more decorative mulch such as shells or glass beads in order to tie your plants in with your interior design scheme. Feeding ZZ plant is a low-maintenance option and as long as you have used a relatively fertile growing medium, it does not necessarily have to be fertilised at all. However, if your plant looks a little lacking in lustre, you can give it a boost. Between April and August, feed the plant around once a month with a balanced, organic liquid fertiliser. If the leaf tips turn brown, your plant does not usually need fertiliser; it is more likely that humidity is too low. Mist your plant to raise the air moisture around your plant. If the leaflets turn brown and are a bit damp to the touch, overwatering is usually the issue. Pruning You will not usually need to worry much about pruning your Zamioculcas zamiifolia. Most of the time, you will just keep your plant looking good by cutting away any leaflets that turn yellow near the base of the vertical leaves. Occasionally, you may also wish to prune out certain leaves in order to improve the overall appearance of your plant. Some of the leaves will tend to grow vertically, while others may tend to arch over. Cutting your plant to size at the tip will make it look odd, so it is best to cut off leaves that you do not like for the overall appearance of your plant at the base. Propagation Propagation of ZZ Plant is relatively easy and straightforward. If you want more than one plant, you can simply purchase one and propagating from this plant will be easy enough to increase your stock. You can propagate Z. zamiifolia by means of rhizome division, or through leaf cuttings. Leaf cuttings (individual leaflets) are left to cure (dry) and then placed in a pot with a suitable growing medium – a plastic covering is used over this pot to retain moisture, and the wait begins for roots to form. Note that it could take up to a year for successful rooting to take place. It won’t take much work or effort on your part to keep your ZZ Plant looking good in your home for years to come – so even if you have struggled in the past to keep green things going, this could be an interesting and easy option to consider. ZZ plant is a gateway to growing, which can allow even the botanically challenged to enjoy green inside their homes. References 1. Zamioculcas zamiifolia. (n.d.). Kew Royal Botanic Gardens. Retrieved March 27, 2023, from https://powo.science.kew.org/taxon/urn:lsid:ipni.org:names:89402-1
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Kalanchoe Succulents Make A Great Choice For Houseplant Lovers: How To Grow Yours
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Kalanchoe Varieties Where To Grow Kalanchoe Kalanchoe Succulent Care Propagating Kalanchoe References Growing Kalanchoe succulents can be a great choice for houseplant lovers, since they require little expertise. You don’t need to be the most green-fingered of people to give it a go. There are some excellent varieties to choose from and they are all relatively simple to propagate and grow. “I’m a big fan of kalanchoe,” shares Garden Blogger Michael Perry. “This is a plant that is succulent and has lovely flowers on it. It will also perform outdoors with up to 4 months of flowering. “It really isn’t demanding when it comes to watering and will forgive a lot of mistakes, even when it gets hot and dry.” Overview Botanical Name Kalanchoe Common Name(s) Flaming Katy / Widow’s Thrill Plant Type Succulent Native Area Madagascar & Tropical Africa Hardiness Rating H1A Foliage Varied succulent leaves Flowers Some cultivars bear vibrant flowers in many colours When To Sow Year-Round Flowering Months April, May, June, July, August, September Kalanchoes are beautiful houseplants to enhance the interiors of your home, as Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly explains: “When I’m asked for a recommendation of a houseplant, I will often suggest a Kalanchoe. “They are great fun to grow and you can progress from easier species to greater challenge. “They are also easy to propagate and a great source of potted gifts for friends and family.” In order to understand how to care for any houseplant, it can be useful to delve a little into their native environment and the conditions in which they naturally thrive. Kalanchoe plants are a genus in the Crassulaceae family.1 There are around 150 different species within this genus, most of which are shrubs or herbaceous perennials.2 They are tropical succulent flowering plants that are mostly native to Madagascar and large regions of tropical Africa.3 A number of different plants within the Kalanchoe genus are commonly cultivated as houseplants, or used in succulent or rock gardens in warmer climes. They are popular for their drought tolerance and ability to survive in low-water conditions. They are typically popular houseplants because of their attractive and interesting flowers and foliage, and because they are pretty easy to care for and grow. Kalanchoe Varieties If you are interested in growing Kalanchoe, you might be wondering which species and variety to choose. Here are some of the popular options that you might like to consider: K. blossfeldiana Flaming Katy comes in many different hues. This is the Kalanchoe plant most commonly grown as a houseplant. It is sometimes called ‘Flaming Katy’, or ‘Panda Plant’. This species has large flower heads that come in a range of hues. Naturally, these Kalanchoe will bloom in the spring, though they can be forced to flower at any time throughout the year. K. porphyrocalyx The pretty purple, pendant flowers on this type of Kalanchoe give it its popular name ‘Pearl Bells’. This is another attractive variety that looks rather delicate with its bell flowers and slender leaves. K. manginii This species also has bell-shaped flowers, though somewhat larger ones – it also has fleshy leaves. While most Kalanchoes are relatively unfussy when it comes to humidity levels, this one needs moist air to flower successfully. K. pinnata Kalanchoe pinnata with tiny plantlets forming K. pinnata has fleshy green leaves and forms tiny plantlets around the edges of the parent plant. K. beharensis The best thing about this species is its large, lush and velvety leaves that shimmer a soft silvery green. Where To Grow Kalanchoe Kalanchoe can be grown outdoors in USDA planting zones 10-12 (RHS Hardiness Zones H1B – H3). Temperature & Sunlight Since the UK lies within USDA Zones 6-9, this means that it is not usually possible, except in the most dramatically mild of gardens, to grow these plants outdoors. These plants need plenty of sunlight and warmth, so it is best to position them in a room which is light and bright. However, it is best to avoid placing them on south-facing window sills or in direct sunlight. When in direct sunlight, the leaves can scorch, and the plant may not bloom. The good news is that when it comes to temperature and humidity, Kalanchoe plants are not too fussy. As long as the temperature fluctuations within the room in which it is placed are not too extreme, these plants will thrive at a range of temperatures between around 12-27°C. Soil Requirements As a succulent, kalanchoe needs a growing medium that does not contain too much moisture. It is also important to choose a pot or container that will wick excess water away more easily. A clay pot filled with 50% potting soil and 50% grit will be suitable; make sure there is good drainage at the base of the pot. In terms of the size of the container, what is required will depend on the size of the specimen, but mature single plants are usually grown in pots around 17-18cm in diameter. Alternatively, two or three plants can be clustered together and grown in one pot of around 21-22 inches in diameter. Do not choose a pot overly large for your plant, as this could make problems with waterlogging and excess moisture more likely. Kalanchoe Succulent Care Kalanchoe, like many other succulents, are plants that you can ‘kill with kindness’. The biggest mistake you can make is watering them too much. These are plants that can, to a certain extent, thrive on neglect – so if you are someone who is not that good about remembering to water your houseplants, this could be a good choice for you. These plants should only be watered well every few weeks or so over most of the year – and even less over the winter months. Between waterings, you should let the plant dry out entirely. To check to see whether you need to water, stick your finger into the growing medium – if there is any moisture there at all, hold off a few more days before watering. To prevent problems such as root rot, watering too little is always better than watering too much. Remember, like other succulents, Kalanchoe stores water in its leaves to see it through a drought. The only other care that will be required for best results is fertilisation. You should only ever use an organic plant feed, and never overdo fertilisation – especially when it comes to nitrogen. Like other flowering plants, a fertiliser that is rich in potassium will help boost blooms. Apply a fertiliser with balanced NPK (nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium) a couple of times over the growing season. How To Get Kalanchoe To Flower Some people have issues when trying to get their Kalanchoe to bloom again once the initial flowers have faded. Kalanchoes are photoperiodic. In other words, they bloom in reaction to light and require dark periods to flower repeatedly.4 It may be that they have not received the requisite amount of darkness. Make sure they get 12-14 hours of darkness every night for a couple of months over the winter and they should bloom again the following spring. If you want to ‘force’ your kalanchoe – in other words – get it to bloom for a specific time such as Christmas, for example, you need to ‘trick’ the plant into thinking that it has come through winter and into spring. Minimise watering and make sure the plant has 14 hours of darkness and 10 hours of light each day for a minimum of 6 weeks before the desired bloom time (to send it into dormancy). As soon as you see flower buds, you should move the plant back to a brighter spot and start watering as usual. Remove the spent flowers to make sure the plant does not put energy into sustaining spent blooms, and to encourage new buds to form. In the right conditions, and usually without much effort on your part, having Kalanchoe plants in your home should allow you to enjoy bright blooms for up to 6 months of the year. Propagating Kalanchoe One of the reasons that succulents like Kalanchoe are so popular to grow is that, once you have one, it is incredibly easy to propagate your plant and increase your houseplant stock. If you know someone who has a Kalanchoe plant that you admire, you might even be able to ‘steal’ a little stem segment to propagate a new plant from it for yourself. All you have to do is take a stem segment from a mature plant, let it ‘cure’ or dry out for a few days, then place it into a pot with a suitable growing medium. Hold off watering and it should root within around 4 weeks or so.5 With some varieties, you can simply remove and plant the plantlets that form around the parent plant. References 1. Rhodiola (Rhodiola rosea L.). (n.d.). Science Direct. https://doi.org/10.1016/b978-0-12-812491-8.00052-7 2. Kalanchoe. (n.d.). Plants of the World Online. Retrieved June 27, 2023, from https://powo.science.kew.org/taxon/urn:lsid:ipni.org:names:30060186-2#children 3. Trinklein, D. (2017, January 5). Kalanchoe: The Versatile Houseplant. Integrated Pest Management: University of Missouri. Retrieved March 20, 2023, from https://ipm.missouri.edu/MEG/2017/1/Kalanchoe/ 4. Currey, C., & Erwin, J. (2011). Photoperiodic Flower Induction of Several Kalanchoe Species and Ornamental Characteristics of the Flowering Species. Hortscience, 46(1), 35–39. https://doi.org/10.21273/hortsci.46.1.35 5. Davenport, M. (2007, April 20). Kalanchoe. Home & Garden Information Center. Retrieved March 20, 2023, from https://hgic.clemson.edu/factsheet/kalanchoe/
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It Can Be 'A Demanding Houseplant' - How To Grow A Fiddle-Leaf Fig Tree
IN THIS GUIDE Overview How To Grow A Fiddle-Leaf Fig Tree Ongoing Care Common Problems References The name ‘Fiddle-Leaf Fig’ rolls off the tongue nicely, and this is definitely a plant to get yourself acquainted with. Hailing from Central & Western Africa, this fig variety has since been cultivated and domesticated, guaranteeing its reputation as a popular staple in our gardens and homes.1 While the plant is definitely in vogue, you should know that some people consider it to be quite finickity. Getting it firmly established in satisfactory conditions can take some work, and if you grow it outdoors, you’ll have to bring it indoors over winter. With that in mind, though, the rewards offered by getting a fiddle-leaf fig properly settled far outweigh the work involved. Overview Botanical Name Ficus lyrata Common Name(s) Fiddle Leaf Fig Tree Plant Type Houseplant Native Area Tropical Africa Hardiness Rating H1B Foliage Large, fiddle-shaped leaves When To Sow June, July, August When To Prune February, March Fiddle-leaf fig is the common name for Ficus lyrata, a flowering plant in the Moraceae family, otherwise known as figs and mulberries.2 Unfortunately, however, this member of the family doesn’t put forth fruit when grown indoors, and the fruits it does put forth outdoors are inedible. For those hoping for a tasty bounty from your fruit tree, we recommend looking elsewhere. Out in nature, this plant has a fearsome reputation. As an epiphyte, the fiddle-leaf fig deposits its seeds on top of other trees and then grows downward toward the ground.3 While this may sound innocent, the branches wind their way around the host tree, gradually strangling it and starving it of resources. “As a houseplant, this is a great way to bring a piece of the West African rainforest into your living room,” shares Horticulturist Colin Skelly. “In a pot, you are keeping it as a seedling compared to its growth habit in its native range.” When grown as a houseplant these tendencies are unlikely to reveal themselves, so you’ve got nothing to worry about. How To Grow A Fiddle-Leaf Fig Tree The Fiddle Leaf Fig can be relatively demanding compared to other houseplants, but we wholeheartedly recommend it. Soil Requirements This plant requires well-aerated soil that promotes fast drainage. It’s not fussy in terms of growing medium – sand, clay, chalk, and loam are all fine – but you must ensure that the roots do not become saturated. It’s not fussy with acidity, either: acid, alkali, or neutral soils will all work. You can also get specially-formulated fiddle-leaf fig nutrient mix to ensure the soil remains suitably nutritious for your new green friend. Hardiness This plant has a hardiness rating of H1B, indicating that it can be grown outside in summer (doing best in temperatures of 10-15°C or above). Given the plant’s African origins, this makes sense. The fiddle-leaf fig evolved in an area of high temperature and frequent sunshine, meaning that a move to often-soggy British climes can be a bit of a shock to the system. It’s still possible to grow a fiddle-leaf fig in your garden, however – you just need to take the appropriate actions by moving it indoors over the colder months. Container Growing Given that you’ll need to move your plant around a lot, it makes sense to grow it in a container. This plant enjoys being outdoors – it likes the fresh air, the humidity and the sunlight. When growing your fiddle-leaf fig outdoors, look for a sheltered west- or south-facing spot in direct sunlight, if possible. Be vigilant for leaf burn, which can be caused by particularly intense periods of sunshine. Because many leaves grow out of a single bud, it can take a while for lost leaves to be replenished. Ongoing Care Aside from ensuring the environment is suitable for your fiddle-leaf fig, it’s actually quite easygoing. It’ll need a very light pruning once in a while, and there are a few potential pests to be aware of – beyond that, it’s plain sailing. Pruning The fiddle-leaf fig tree is a proud member of RHS’ pruning group 1; thus requiring “little to no pruning”.4 This bodes well for the casual gardeners amongst us, and goes some way to offset the tree’s demanding environmental needs. Give your plant a light pruning in late winter or early spring. All you’re looking to do is remove diseased or damaged shoots and any that are crossing each other or growing in unwanted directions. After you’ve done that, mulch and feed the soil to give your plant a nutrient boost. Winter Care While they can acclimatise partly to cold, freezing temperatures can cause shock and loss of foliage. While fiddle-leaf figs are fussy when being moved, they’ll respond well to a move to a more suitable environment. And in winter, without being moved indoors they will almost certainly die off in outdoor conditions in the UK. By growing yours in a pot it can be moved easily when the time feels right, but there are also a few steps you can take to ease the transition – Move to a shady spot outdoors for a couple of weeks to get your plant used to lower light conditions. Use a grow light to simulate sunlight and help your fiddle-leaf fig acclimatise to the dark depths of winter. Go steady on the watering: check the top two inches of soil with your finger and only water when these are dry. Keep your plant away from radiators, heaters, or any other sources of hot air, as this can further disrupt their already-sensitive humidity requirements. Any and all of these steps should help out with any transition from the summer outdoors to overwintering indoors. Common Problems Few plants are free of risk from opportunistic pests, and the fiddle-leaf fig tree is no different. Here are the main offenders: Glasshouse Red Spider Mite These minuscule nuisances feed on the sap in plant leaves, which can lead to mottled leaves and even leaf loss in severe cases. They’re especially prevalent in summer and, given that your fiddle-leaf fig will be spending its summers outdoors, you need to be vigilant. If you catch an infestation early, you’ve got a better chance of controlling it. You can deliberately introduce predatory insects to eat the red spider mites, or you can use solutions such as neem oil or insecticidal soap. Thrips Thrips are another small sap-sucking insect that can damage the leaves of your prized fiddle-leaf fig. If you notice discolouration on your leaves, see whether you can find any thrips lurking under the leaves. Methods of control are similar: predatory mites or a variety of pesticides. Woolly aphids You can also hang sticky fly-catching sheets if your plant is indoors, as this will attract the thrips away. Don’t do this outside, however, as you’ll likely catch and kill many innocent flying creatures. Mealybugs Mealybugs also like to eat sap, and in exchange for this tasty sustenance, they leave a sticky trail on your leaves which can give rise to mould. Look for fluffy wax, small white woodlouse-y bugs, or black mould – all indicate visiting mealybugs. And when you have visitors, your choices are pesticides, tolerating small amounts of damage, or, sadly, destroying heavily infested plants. A fiddle-leaf fig tree is a stylish addition to any home or garden – and if you’re up for a challenge, you could soon be the proud owner of a thriving specimen. References 1. Datiles, M. J., & Acevedo-Rodrígue, P. (2014). Ficus lyrata (fiddle-leaf fig). CABI Compendium. https://doi.org/10.1079/cabicompendium.24125 2. Ficus lyrata. (n.d.). Global Plants – JSTOR. Retrieved March 15, 2023, from https://plants.jstor.org/stable/10.5555/al.ap.flora.fwta3535 3. Ficus lyrata. (n.d.-b). North Carolina Extension Gardener Plant Toolbox. Retrieved March 15, 2023, from https://plants.ces.ncsu.edu/plants/ficus-lyrata/ 4. Shrubs and trees: light pruning. (n.d.-b). Royal Horticultural Society. Retrieved March 15, 2023, from https://www.rhs.org.uk/plants/types/trees/trees-shrubs-light-pruning
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5 Ingenious DIY Potting Soil Recipes With Tips From Sarah Gerrard-Jones
IN THIS GUIDE DIY Potting Soil Recipes For Growing Key Ingredients For Potting Soil Go Potty For DIY Potting Soil References Whether it’s growing your own fruit and vegetables, making your own compost, or upcycling old household items to use as containers for growing – many gardeners nowadays are trying to become more self-sufficient, no longer wanting to rely on shop-bought products. As peat-based products are not sustainable and alternatives offered can be variable in terms of nutrient provision and even at times include herbicides in error, needless to say, a lot of gardeners are also opting to make their own potting mix. It’s not as difficult as you would imagine, and can be a real money saver. There are many more benefits that come with making your own potting soil including the fact that you know exactly what nutrients are in your soil, and you can tailor it perfectly to the plants you are working with. It also means you can be sure that you aren’t accidentally exposing your plants to any nasty herbicides or pesticides. So, if you’re eager to start making your own DIY potting soil, then this article will tell you everything you need to know to get started. Firstly, your DIY potting soil should be consistent, lightweight, and easy to handle. You can tailor your potting soil to the precise needs of your plants by creating your own unique blends – If you are starting seeds or root cuttings, you will want to create a lighter, finer-textured mix. For shrubs and trees, you will require a mix that consists of a high level of coarse sand or bark. If you are growing succulents or cacti, then you will want to opt for a sandy and gravelly texture. When it comes to growing containers of annuals, perennials, vegetables or tropicals, then a general, all-purpose potting mix is ideal. DIY Potting Soil Recipes For Growing Now that you have an understanding of what potting soil is and have familiarised yourself with the ingredients needed to create it, it’s time to start mixing! We have picked out the best DIY recipes to help you make the perfect potting soils for your needs. Making your own potting soil isn’t difficult and, as you come to understand it better, you will be able to manufacture whatever type you require for your pot plant growing needs. “You need to think about what kind of plant you’re growing, whether it’s a houseplant or a succulent, and where it is native to,” shares Houseplant Expert Jane Perrone. “If it’s coming from a free-draining place, you’ll need to add lots of drainage material. There are so many things you can use for this, like perlite, grit and horticultural sand, as mentioned above.” You can use a wheelbarrow to mix your blends, or if you want to make blends in bulk, you could also use a compost tumbler or even a cement mixer. 1) For Annuals, Perennials, Fruit & Veg 6 parts coir 4 and ½ parts perlite 6 parts garden compost or composted bark 300g of organic fertiliser per 75 litres of potting mix 2) For Seed Starting 3 parts coir 1 part perlite 1 part vermiculite 2 parts sharp sand 3) For Shrubs & Trees 3 parts coir 3 parts garden compost 2 and ½ parts sharp sand 3 parts perlite 2 and ½ parts composted bark (pine bark can be substituted for shrubs and trees that require additional acidity) 200g organic fertiliser per 64 litres of potting mix 4) For Pot Plants 2 parts coir 1 and ½ parts perlite 2 parts sharp sand 28g of organic fertiliser per 25 litres of potting mix 5) For Cacti Or Succulents 3 parts coir 1 part perlite 1 part vermiculite Key Ingredients For Potting Soil Before you start creating your own DIY potting soil, it’s essential to familiarise yourself with the key ingredients that you will be working with and what part they play. 1) Sphagnum Peat Moss Sphagnum peat moss is a coarse, stable material that takes a long time to break down. Lightweight and inexpensive, it’s used to bulk up your mixture and also holds water well. You will want to take care not to add too much Sphagnum peat moss as this can slow or even stop drainage. It is also harmful to the environment, so we would recommend seeking alternative materials where possible. It also does not contain a lot of nutrients and has an acidic pH; you can add limestone to balance this. “As peat-based compost will no longer be sold in the UK from 2024, I’d recommend that you start to use alternatives now to become accustomed to the different watering and feeding regimes that are needed for peat-free compost mixes,” suggests Roy. 2) Coir Fibre Coir or coconut fibre is a natural fibre extracted from the husk of the coconut. You will often see it used in brushes, doormats, and floor mats. Coir is an excellent alternative to sphagnum peat moss, because it contains more nutrients and lasts longer. It is more expensive to purchase, but many gardeners feel it is a lot more sustainable. 3) Sand Sand is a core ingredient in potting soil, and we recommend using sharp sand which is coarse and sharp and enhances drainage and aeration as well as adding weight to the mix. “Builders sand is best avoided as it generally contains lime and is not as coarse as sharp sand and can therefore clog up potting mixes with its finer particles,” Roy adds. Do take care not to go overboard on the sand as this can make the containers too heavy to move. 4) Perlite Perlite is mined, expanded volcanic glass that has the appearance of white Styrofoam balls. Lightweight and sterile, perlite can hold up to four times its weight in water and is excellent for improving drainage. It is more expensive than sand, but its qualities may make it worth the extra expense. “Most tropical houseplants require free-draining substrate and an easy way to achieve this is by adding some orchid bark and perlite to the potting compost,” shares Sarah Gerrard-Jones, Horticultural Author and Blogger. 5) Vermiculite Vermiculite is an excellent alternative to perlite. It is a mined mineral which is then conditioned with heat which causes it to expand into light particles. Vermiculite increases the porosity of your potting soil, providing magnesium and calcium and increasing the water-holding capacity of your mix.1 6) Fertilisers You will need to add fertilisers to your peat-based DIY potting soil as the mix won’t naturally contain enough nutrients to support good plant growth. Stay away from synthetic fertilisers and instead opt for a natural fertiliser combining plant materials or animal by-products such as manure. 7) Limestone As mentioned, adding limestone can help balance the pH levels in your potting soil. We recommend using about a quarter of a cup per every six gallons of peat-based potting soil. 8) Garden Compost Homemade garden compost is a wonderful addition to your DIY potting soil. It has an excellent capacity for holding water and is high in nutrients. Including compost can play an instrumental role in promoting healthy plant growth – that said, we don’t advise using it for containers where you are seed-starting as it can be too heavy and prevent good growth. 9) Composted Woodchips By introducing composted woodchips to your homemade potting soil, you will increase the pore sizes, allowing for better water and airflow. It is imperative to note that, although the woodchips are slow to breakdown, they can decrease the nitrogen within the potting soil and we therefore recommend supplementing with blood meal or alfalfa meal. Composted woodchips are an ideal ingredient for growing shrubs and perennials. Once you have purchased the woodchips, you will want to allow them to compost for a year and you should be turning the pile at least every three weeks. Alternatively, composted bark can be purchased separately and used immediately in potting mixes. Go Potty For DIY Potting Soil Hopefully, this article has left you brimming with confidence to make your own DIY potting soil. The wonderful thing about it is that, once you get into it, you can really change and adapt your own potting soil brand to perfectly suit the plants you are keen to grow. Help your potted plants thrive with your own brand of potting soil Learning to make your own potting soil will teach you so much about your potted plants, flowers, shrubs and trees and will give you a real understanding of their specific, individual needs. Don’t be afraid to use a little trial and error; this is a rewarding process and will lead you to feeling like a much more confident and well-rounded gardener. So go ahead and get mixing the perfect DIY potting soil for your potted plants. References 1. Cation Exchange Capacity in Vermiculite. (2021, March 30). Dicalite Management Group. Retrieved March 14, 2023, from https://www.dicalite.com/2021/03/cation-exchange-capacity-vermiculite/
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Here's What These Sedum Growers Argue Are The Most Essential Rules For Thriving Plants
IN THIS GUIDE Overview How To Grow Sedum Planting Sedum Care Common Problems Sedum – or stonecrop – is a popular succulent. They’re resistant to heat, drought, and other harsh conditions, making them great plants for beginners. One of the reasons this plant is so popular is its enormous versatility in appearance. Some varieties sport jelly-bean-like buds, while others have hugely flamboyant yellow flowers which seem to paint sunshine right across your garden. “Sedum is a large genus with a huge variety of species that include types for succulent collectors through to hugely popular garden favourites,” shares Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly. “As a garden perennial, they are tough, drought tolerant when established and provide beautiful late summer flowers.” For this guide, we’ve worked with some of the most experienced sedum growers in the UK: Ray Stephenson – Editor and Chairman of The Sedum Society. Niamh Mullally – Owner of Southwold Succulent Co. “The palette of colours, especially on the evergreen varieties, makes me particularly passionate about growing sedums,” says Niamh. “Once established, maintenance is minimal, and they have a great capacity to thrive in droughts and survive harsh winter conditions.” Overview Botanical Name Sedum Plant Type Succulent Native Area Mostly northern hemisphere; Africa and South America Hardiness Rating Various Foliage Succulent leaves and stems Flowers Various When To Sow April, May Flowering Months June, July, August, September, October Although the sedum genus also includes annual and biennial plants, the majority of popular varieties are perennial. Before choosing your Sedum variety, bear in mind the wide range of potential aesthetics. Researching the varieties available, and understanding what each will look like throughout its lifetime, is a key part of choosing the right Stonecrop for your garden. This is especially true if you’re planning to create a succulent display or rock garden, something along the lines of the image above. Whatever variety you choose, you can expect carpets of colour from yellows and oranges, to reds and pinks – and even turquoises, blues and greys. How To Grow Sedum Sedum doesn’t grow as large as some other plants. The maximum height for the varieties above is about 0.5m, although many will be smaller. People enjoy Stonecrops for their mat-forming tendencies – giving you low, wide spreads of colour and visual interest. “Grow Sedums in your garden for a drought-proof, bug-proof, windproof, hardy, late-summer spectacular in full sun on average soil,” says Katherine Crouch, an award-winning garden designer. “Neither fussy nor invasive, you can split your sedum every three years and it won’t splay.” If after reading this far you’ve decided to introduce a Sedum to your garden, here’s what you need to know. Hardiness Each of the varieties above has a hardiness rating of H5 or higher, meaning they can survive down to -10°C – or pretty much everything a British winter can throw at them. Several varieties are rated H6 or H7, meaning they’ll still manage down to below -20°C. Soil Requirements “I recommend John Innes no 3,” says Niamh. “When combined with perlite, it’s sufficiently free-draining whilst being a permanent planting medium.” All the varieties above will do just fine in sand or loam, with others being happy in chalk or clay as well. They’re generally not fussy about pH, with most varieties accepting alkaline or neutral soil. A couple can manage acidic, too – best to check the specific needs of the variety you choose. The most important thing when planting a Sedum is the moisture level. “Concentrate on your soil mix. Never use multi-purpose compost and make sure it’s free draining before you plant,” warns Niamh. Your soil should be well-drained, but this isn’t a plant that will grow well in waterlogged or even overly moist soils. Planting Most Stonecrop varieties require full sunlight to thrive, although a few can make do in partial shade. All of those above will grow well while facing south, but beyond that, there’s no hard-and-fast rule for which direction your Stonecrop should face. Some in our list are quite versatile, being able to cope with three or even four directions. Others are fussier, and will only grow their best in a south-facing aspect. Our advice is to look at specific information for the variety of Stonecrop you’re planning to plant. Plant Out In Spring The best time to plant a Stonecrop is spring, after the risk of frost has passed and before summer starts to heat up. Make sure to plant out in the correct soil conditions, as newly-planted Stonecrops will be most liable to damage. Planting Out When planting from seed, leave at least 15cm of space between each plant. Also make sure to read up on your variety, because certain ones need more space – sometimes up to 60cm. If you’re growing from a division taken from another Sedum plant, ensure the whole root ball is covered by soil. The hole should be deep enough that the entire root ball is buried just below the surface. Cuttings are even more straightforward: just place the cutting in the hole and cover it over. If soil conditions are correct, then your plant should take root easily. Sedum Care Newly planted Stonecrop plants need a bit of TLC to become properly established. Keep a careful eye on the soil moisture levels, making equally sure that they don’t stay too wet or get too dry. Once your plant is established, you don’t need to be quite so vigilant about moisture levels. Sedums are succulents, after all: a type of plant noted for its ability to weather drought and retain water for dry spells. Sedums will appreciate a layer of compost being added to the soil once a year. Avoid anything too high in nitrogen, as this can cause wilting. If you’re growing your sedums in a container, Niamh has the following advice: “In Suffolk, I use 40% soil to 60% perlite for my growing medium. This ratio can be increased to 20/80 if you’re in a wetter area. “Keep a bag of horticultural grit in your shed or greenhouse. The grit level may drop after a harsh winter and a top-up in springtime will revive your containers.” Pruning Stonecrops can be safely pruned back to keep them from getting unruly. If you’re planning to prune, deadhead after flowering. There’s no need to do this, however, and the choice is purely aesthetic. Some gardeners prefer to leave the fading flowers to add a bit of extra colour. Common Problems Stonecrops are relatively well-behaved when it comes to pests. However, Ray explains that the problems that might face sedums vary massively depending on the variety. “Some varieties need specialised horticulture, whilst others are difficult to kill. You need to know the requirements of the one you are growing.” Take the usual garden precautions, and you should be able to avoid spending your whole life battling pests and infestations. As we’ve said throughout this guide: your best bet is to look at specifics for the type(s) you’ll be planting in your garden. Some are renowned for being pest-free, while others have slightly higher tendencies of attracting certain critters. Knowing which precautions you should take can help you to avoid problems before they arise. Here’s what to look out for: Glasshouse Whitefly This is a sap-feeding insect that likes to suck the life-giving nectar out of all sorts of plants. Sadly, certain varieties of Stonecrop are on their preferred menu. Sometimes you’ll see the insects themselves – small, with white wings. Other times you may notice their calling card – sticky residue on your plants. Once whiteflies establish themselves, they can be hard to remove. Deliberately introducing small wasps is one way to control this pest (you can order them online). Alternatively, certain organic sprays can bring them under control. The best way to avoid whiteflies is to keep on top of weeding, and checking bought plants for any signs of infestation before planting them out. Aphids These fellas also like to suck sap, and are also attracted to certain varieties of Stonecrop. As with whiteflies, you’ll usually be able to see aphids with the naked eye – they’re small and green, and hang around on the leaves of plants they’re feasting on. If your Stonecrop looks weak or generally unhealthy and you can’t see any aphids, take a closer look – sometimes they lurk out of sight. Small amounts of aphids can be tolerated, but if they start to get out of control, certain pesticides can be used to remove them. The health of your plant is the benchmark of whether an infestation is getting out of control. Glasshouse Red Spider Mite Yet another bug that will help itself to the sap from your Stonecrop’s leaves, the glasshouse red spider mite is worth keeping an eye out for. The symptoms will be similar to previous pests in this list: an unhealthy plant with stunted growth, with a possibly mottled appearance. This mite thrives in warm conditions, so an outdoor plant will probably be safe in winter. If your Sedum is growing in a greenhouse, keep a lookout all year round. Removing infected plants immediately is a good way to prevent further spread; otherwise, predatory mites and certain types of pesticides offer effective control.
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Money Plant Growing Tips Featuring Experienced Grower Ralph Behrmann
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Habitat & Growing Conditions Planting Plant Care Cleaning Money Plant Leaves Pruning Propagation Common Problems References Crassula ovata (AKA ‘Money Plant’) is a succulent evergreen originating from Eastern South Africa.1 It grows in a wide latitude of conditions, is easy to care for, and is long-lived. Bearing shiny, chunky leaves and inflorescences of pretty white or pinkish flowers, this attractive ornamental is low-maintenance and high-decor – no wonder it is such a popular houseplant the world over. In this guide we interview and feature Ralph Behrmann, an experienced grower and supplier at Clouds Hill Succulents. Overview Botanical Name Crassula ovata Common Name(s) Jade Plant, Money Plant, Friendship Tree Plant Type Succulent Native Area Eastern South Africa Hardiness Rating H2 Foliage Evergreen succulent leaves Flowers Small, white When To Plant / Repot Spring – Autumn Money Plant, Jade Plant, Penny Plant, Lucky Plant, Friendship Tree, Dollar Plant, Silver Dollar Plant, Kerky Bush – all these names, most of them suggesting prosperity and fortune, identify one and the same plant, Crassula ovata. An evergreen shrub that is as sturdy in constitution as it is in appearance, this plant can tolerate varying sun-shade balance, dry weather, and even drought conditions, and is super-easy to propagate. It is equally easy to grow and care for both outdoors and indoors, and its versatility extends even to being the plant of choice for learning bonsai: its toughness allows it to withstand rough pruning and its natural attributes make for a lovely miniaturised tree. However, the majority of Jade Plants grown by gardeners are neither outdoor plants nor bonsai but are potted houseplants. Potted specimens typically attain heights of between 45-75cm but in their native habitat, C. ovata can grow as tall as 2m. When plants get a lot of sunlight the leaves develop an eye-catching red edging, specifically a deep ruby-red shade. Conversely, if nights are long and the overall temperature is on the cool side but the plant gets sufficient sunlight, older specimens will bloom in winter – though this is unusual in indoor potted plants. When it does, the inflorescences are lush – each one is about 5cm both in length and diameter and bears a profusion of short-lived but charming flowers. These are star-shaped with lanceolate petals and are white, pink, white with pink tinges, or cream. Habitat & Growing Conditions C. ovata itself is hardy to RHS H1C (USDA Zone 11) but some cultivars are hardy to lower zones; for example, Gollum and E.T.’s Fingers are hardy to RHS Zone H3 (USDA Zone 9). They do best in warm and dry climates – think Arizona – and in their native South Africa they are often found growing among dense vegetation, primarily succulents, in valleys and in lonely clusters on stony hillsides.2 In damp soil or humid climes they are susceptible to stem rot and fungal diseases, as Ralph explains: “From the feedback I get from my customers, poor water management is a huge problem. Many people want to give water to a plant every day, whereas this shouldn’t happen.” “More humid environment such as bathrooms works well only for epiphytic succulents, such as rhipsalis or peperomias. “Crassulas need a place in the house where the air humidity is not too high and definitely do not require misting” – helping to expel a common myth of crassula plant care. In areas such as the UK which are typically below their designated hardiness zone, Money Plant and its cultivars cannot survive cold weather outdoors and effectively become annuals. However, plants will survive the winter if they are brought indoors and the temperature drops no lower than 10°C. Planting Chinese Money Plant can be planted around the year but it is not advisable to do so in the winter because this is the plant’s dormant season. Growing the plant in winter, especially in unfavourable zones or climates like the UK, may prove troublesome. It is smart to plant it between mid-spring and mid-summer, which is plumb in the middle of this succulent’s active growing season, to facilitate strong rooting and fast growth. Plant Care Temperature & Sunlight “Most succulents are not only adapted to sunlight, they also need a sufficient amount of it in order to thrive”, says Ralph, when discussing the importance of light and succulents. This sporting plant will make do with virtually any mix of sun and shade provided that the afternoon sun is not too hot or direct. The ideal sun-shade mix is about four hours of morning sun and the rest in shade. The ideal temperature ranges for C. ovata are 20-25°C during the day and 12-15°C during the night. “In the summer months, placing your Crassula ovata outside will expose it to higher light levels, which will cause the plant’s leaves to take on vibrant red colouration,” advises Expert Horticulturist Colin Skelly. “Just be careful to make sure the plant does not get too ‘baked’ or, almost as likely, too wet in an English summer! “Make sure to bring it back inside before temperatures fall in autumn.” Soil Requirements This plant requires a rich soil mix that drains well – make that very well. A sandy loam with compost, and including gravel and perlite in the topsoil, is ‘right on the money’. The pH may fall anywhere from moderately acidic to slightly alkaline, with 6.0 being perfect. Because of the way Money Plants grow and use nutrients in the soil it is almost a necessity to repot containerised plants in fresh soil about every three years. Watering In the spring and summer growing season they should be watered freely but let the soil dry out completely before watering again – even consistently moist soil is a no-no. Winter is Jade Plants’ dormant season and during these three or four months, the plant should be watered infrequently and with little water so that its soil remains drier for longer spells than in summer. Bottom watering your plants during this period can help – so that soil is not left wet and waterlogged – but your plant is able to suck up water when needed through its roots. These lengthier dry periods in the winter combined with some bright sun and mostly deep shade in the day and cool nights are the triggers that bring mature plants, especially outdoor ones, to flower. Even mature plants do not flower annually but about once every three years. Feeding Though fertilising is not necessary, to feed plants organically compost can be mixed into the soil, and in spring and summer they can be fed with a diluted 10-10-10 liquid fertiliser every two months; alternatively, in early-spring add the appropriate amount of a balanced controlled-release fertiliser to the soil. Tricolour cultivar Cleaning Money Plant Leaves You can clean Money Plant leaves with water using two methods but in either case, do make sure that the water is at room temperature; it should not be either hot or cold. The less time-consuming method is to use a spray bottle or a pinched hose to emit a gentle jet or spray of water on the money plant’s leaves, taking care to wash the undersides of the leaves as well. Another method is to hand clean the plant: Put a small amount of mild, organic liquid soap in a basin of water, and with a soft cotton cloth, gently rub the soapy water on the leaves, including their undersides. Then use plain water and a different cloth for a wipe-off to get rid of the soapy residue. Cleaning leaves not only keeps the plant looking fresh and pretty, it also prevents infestation and disease. Pruning Pruning C. ovata is not necessary; do so if you have a specific reason. You can prune faded, dried-out flowers and browned or dead branches and leaves for aesthetic reasons. If your Jade Plant is in a small pot and you wish to limit its size or if you wish to sculpt an outdoor or indoor specimen, you can prune it. Annually pruning branches, especially emerging ones, will result in the plant becoming less bushy and developing a stout main stem or ‘trunk’. To prune, use a sharp pair of secateurs that have been disinfected. Prune a branch either by cutting it at a node or flush along its parent branch. Be mindful that when a branch is pruned at a node, more often than not two new branches will sprout from the node immediately underneath. At most, prune 20% of the plant’s branches and no more. It is advisable to prune in spring or summer to promote quick recovery. Propagation “Propagating succulents from cuttings is a secure form to replicate an existing plant” explains Ralph from Clouds Hill Succulents. “The plant you grow from a cutting will always look like the mother plant, whilst growing plants from seeds can be a bit of a shot in the dark”. However, C. ovata roots so strongly that when leaves or stems of outdoor specimens in favourable climates break and fall on the ground, they often root and become new plants in two to three weeks. As such, one can conclude that it is very easy to propagate this plant: Simply twist and pull a leaf so that it, along with its stalk, detaches cleanly from the stem. Let it sit in a dry and warm room for two or three days. Then place the leaf in loose favourable soil, gently pressing the stalk but a few millimetres under the surface. After a day put only some drops of water. Leaves should root in about four weeks. You can also cut off a small length of the stem using sharp and disinfected secateurs. Allow it a period of two to three days in a dry and warm room so that the plant can heal and to reduce the chances of rot. Then gently insert the cut end of the cutting into a favourable soil mix – stem cuttings should root in about three weeks. Though cuttings can be taken and rooted year-round, it is best and easiest to do so in the summer. Common Problems Though C. ovata in the main are free of diseases and infestations, the one pest that poses a threat is the mealybug. Compounding the problem, should such an infestation occur it cannot be treated with any of the usual insecticidal soaps or oils, even organic ones. The reason is that Jade Plants (like almost all other succulents) are hypersensitive to (organic or other) insecticides and their foliage can suffer serious adverse effects. One way to eliminate mealybugs is by pruning. If you spot an infestation that is localised in a small portion of the plant, you can prune that part using the technique described above. Alternatively, clean off the infestation. Soak cotton buds or a small cloth in rubbing alcohol and gently rub the infested surfaces so as to kill and wipe off the mealybugs. You will need to repeat this cleaning and disinfestation every day for several days, even up to two weeks, until all the mealybugs are gone. Continue for a few days even after no mealybugs are visible so as to do away with any larvae and newly-hatched insects. If your plant is outdoors you could fight fire with fire by simply letting loose beneficial insects that prey upon mealybugs. Release ladybugs, lacewings, and mealybug destroyers. Yellowing Leaves The most common cause of yellowed leaves is overwatering, which can lead to more serious problems including death. Immediately and significantly reduce watering, both in amount and frequency, and allow the soil to dry out before re-commencing watering. If you have not been overwatering then that would indicate that the soil is not draining well. In this case, you would need to transplant the Money Plant into a favourable soil mix that is well-drained. Overexposure to harsh direct sun can also turn a Money Plant’s leaves yellow because such exposure causes the plant to produce different pigments for protection from sunlight and UV rays. In such cases put up a barrier to shield it from the sun except for two hours in the morning until it recovers, or, if the plant is containerised, simply move it to a location where it gets no more than two hours of morning sun. If yellowed leaves are limp, soft, soggy, or falling off, then the cause is overwatering. If yellowed leaves exhibit no other symptoms or ill-effects, then the cause is too much sun. References 1. Crassula ovata (Mill.) Druce. (n.d.). Kew Royal Botanic Gardens. Retrieved March 28, 2023, from https://powo.science.kew.org/taxon/urn:lsid:ipni.org:names:273350-1 2. Crassula ovata (jade plant). (2022, January 7). CABI Compendium. https://doi.org/10.1079/cabicompendium.113574
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Three Recognised Orchid Growers And Sellers Share Dendrobium Nurturing Secrets
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Habitat & Growing Conditions How To Grow Dendrobium Dendrobium Care Getting A Dendrobium Orchid To Bloom Propagation Common Problems References With their dark green foliage and distinctive, tropical flowers, it’s not hard to see why orchids are one of the most popular container plants in the UK. Dendrobium orchids are a genus of epiphytic orchids, known for their linear leaves and attractive sprays of showy flowers. In this guide, we collaborate and share advice from three recognised orchid growers and sellers: Sara Rittershausen – Owner of Burnham Nurseries Ltd. Paul Upward – Chairman and Programme Secretary of the Thames Valley Orchid Society. Daniel Toor – Owner of The Dark Orchid. “Beyond their beauty, it’s the delicate care and attention required to cultivate these magnificent plants that makes growing them so rewarding, with blooms as a final prize,” says Daniel. “In many ways, orchids are like beloved pets that require constant nurturing and attention, rather than mere houseplants. “Their unique needs and characteristics make them fascinating subjects for both novice and seasoned gardeners alike.” There are over 1,000 species of Dendrobium orchids, and they all have slightly different appearances and care requirements – although they can be roughly grouped into the cooler-growing varieties, and the warmer-growing varieties, that need heat to thrive.1 Dendrobium orchids are not difficult to grow, but they do require ongoing maintenance to flower and look their best. This includes regular watering, feeding with a specialised orchid food, and misting, to recreate their natural humid habitat. If you’ve recently acquired, or are thinking about acquiring, a Dendrobium orchid, read on for our full care and growing guide, to find out exactly how to look after your pretty new flower plant. Overview Botanical Name Dendrobium Plant Type Houseplant Native Area South-East Asia Hardiness Rating H1A – H1C Foliage Epiphytic in nature Flowers Various orchid blooms When To Sow March, April, May Flowering Months April, May, June Dendrobium is part of the Orchidaceae family.2 They are terrestrial and epiphytic, meaning that they grow on other plants and rocks, rather than in soil. Some Dendrobium orchids are deciduous, and some remain green year-round. The name ‘Dendrobium’ is derived from the Ancient Greek words for tree, ‘Dendron’, and life, ‘Bios’, and refers to the fact that these orchids are often found growing on tree branches in their natural habitat.3 “The orchid family is huge and there really is something for everyone, as there is always something different in each flower to enjoy and new ones to learn about,” shares Sara. “The variety and diversity of the orchid make it the most fascinating plant family.” Some grow well in cooler conditions, such as D. nobile, and others prefer hot temperatures, such as D. bigibbum. Dendrobium orchids flower in spikes, from the old pseudobulbs (canes), and either alone or in racemes. Most varieties produce flowering spikes of around 30-50cm, but some larger varieties can grow up to 120cm tall. This D. nobile has a distinctive, contrasting maroon lip Plants generally bloom for 6–8 weeks. The colour of the blooms ranges greatly depending on the variety – and includes red, purple, pink, yellow and white. They can also be a mix of two or more colours – D. nobile has white, rose pink or purple flowers with a contrasting lip, and can produce up to 50 blooms per stem. Habitat & Growing Conditions Orchids are found all over the world, with different species originating from different locales and climates. Most Dendrobiums, including D. nobile, originate from South and South East Asia. Dendrobium orchids grow in everything from warm, humid forests, river valleys, dry deserts, and cool, high-altitude mountainsides, such as in the Himalayas. As they are epiphytic, they are usually found growing on other plants, such as trees, or on rocks. “Grow other houseplants with them as they will enjoy the environment this creates,” suggests Sara. They generally need a lot of moisture in the air, but not at their roots, as they do not like to be waterlogged and are prone to root rot. You can replicate these conditions at home by misting your orchid’s leaves with water, using a spray bottle. Mist your Dendrobium’s leaves to replicate its natural humid growing conditions “Your orchid will also need bright, indirect light to thrive, so place it near a window or provide additional artificial light,” Daniel says. How To Grow Dendrobium You can buy Dendrobium orchids from garden centres, nurseries, or online suppliers. Two of the most commonly available types of Dendrobium orchid in the UK are D. nobile and D. bigibbum. As there are at least 1,000 different varieties, and many more hybrids of Dendrobium orchid, if there is a particular colour or variety you want, you may need to seek out a specialist grower. “When it comes to growing orchids, there’s no one-size-fits-all answer,” says Daniel. “With so many different species, each with its own specific requirements, the key to success lies in understanding the unique needs of your plants.” Another way to acquire an orchid, other than buying it, is to propagate an existing plant. This could be a good option if you have a friend or family member who already owns a Dendrobium orchid. Container & Potting Medium Dendrobium orchids grow best in small pots, and therefore work well as patio, greenhouse or indoor plants. They like their roots to be crowded, so you should select a pot that is no more than 3cm bigger than the plant’s root ball. Do not plant it directly in the ground, and do not use a generic potting compost. As Dendrobium orchids are epiphytic, you will need to source a special epiphytic orchid compost to plant them in. “To help prevent overwatering, make sure your orchid’s potting mix has proper drainage and only water the plant when the mix is dry to the touch,” says Daniel. Alternatively, you can also pot in a different material, such as moss, tree bark or coconut husks. These orchids must have good drainage – it can be helpful to plant them in hanging baskets to ensure this. Planting The best time to plant a Dendrobium orchid will depend on the variety you’re growing. As a general rule, it is best to plant at the beginning of the growing season, which is often in spring. This is also true if you are re-potting the plant, or propagating it through division. You should plant your Dendrobium orchid in a special epiphytic orchid compost, or a soil alternative such as moss, coconut husks or tree bark, to replicate their natural epiphytic growing conditions. Always plant in a small pot, as Dendrobium likes its roots to be constricted, and this will also help to prevent the plant from becoming waterlogged. You can always place the small pot inside a larger container if you prefer this look. “Many a Dendrobium have met their end by planting them in heavy orchid composts and allowing them to sit in water,” says Horticultural Consultant Dan Ori. “Although they can tolerate growing in an orchid compost with some soil or broken-down bark if you are light on watering, I find it best to have them in a low-absorbent material like bark chip.” Dendrobium Care “The challenge of getting these magical, mysterious and temperamental plants to grow well and flower is what makes them so rewarding,” shares Paul. “Orchids can be tricky to grow and when I get it right, I feel a great sense of achievement. Every orchid enthusiast has at some point killed plants because the conditions they gave them weren’t to the plant’s liking. “They could be kept at the wrong temperature, received too much or too little light, or received too much fertiliser. “However, over time I learnt from other growers, I joined orchid societies, read books and searched websites. “Making one small change at a time to my growing conditions, the plants grew more vigorously, flowered more regularly, and I began to win more awards at shows.” Temperature & Sunlight The best temperature to keep your Dendrobium orchid depends on whether it’s a cool or warm-growing variety. Generally speaking, cool-growing varieties need to be kept above a minimum night temperature of 10°C, whilst warm-growing varieties should be above 21°C. “Orchids tend to bloom when conditions change,” says Paul. “Often, it’s as a result of temperature change. When winter arrives, many orchids start to flower, or it can be as simple as a change in temperature between night and day.” You will find it easier to control the temperature if you keep the plant indoors. Light is very important for Dendrobium orchids. Your plant will need access to full light between autumn and spring, in order for its canes to ripen. This light can come from natural sunlight through a south-facing window, or specially set up grow lamps. In summer, it’s best to keep the plant in partial shade to avoid it getting too warm. Watering & Feeding “Watering is a delicate balance and is essential to the health and growth of your orchids,” says Daniel. “Finding the right balance can be challenging, but it’s crucial for keeping your orchids thriving. “To get it right, it’s important to consider factors such as the type of orchid you have, the size of the pot and the environment it’s growing in. “With proper care and attention, you can keep your orchids healthy and gorgeous for years to come.” During the summer growing period, you will need to water your orchid weekly, or whenever the soil starts getting dry. You should also aim to mist it once or twice a day, to replicate the humidity of its natural habitat. Every second watering, add a specialised orchid fertiliser to the water, to give it a boost of the nutrients essential for flowering. Warm-growing species will need to be watered throughout the winter too, but cool-growing species can be kept drier, as they enter their winter dormancy period – it is essential to research the requirements of your particular variety. Make sure never to allow your orchid to become waterlogged, or to sit in water, as the roots are prone to rotting. “Try giving a high-potash orchid bloom feed to encourage ones that have not flowered for a while,” says Sara. Dendrobium should be disturbed as little as possible, especially once their flowering spike has appeared. If they outgrow their container and need to be re-potted, the best time to do this is in spring, or at the beginning of the plant’s growing season. Pruning Dendrobium Dendrobium orchids do not need to be pruned, and older canes often store water and nutrients essential for plant health. The plant can also flower on old canes. However, you can manage their size and keep them looking their best by trimming the old flowering stems if necessary, using sharp scissors. Getting A Dendrobium Orchid To Bloom To encourage your Dendrobium orchids to bloom, you should feed them a specialised orchid fertiliser with every second watering. Dilute this according to the plant food manufacturer’s instructions, to avoid burning your orchid’s roots. Your orchid’s fertiliser should container a good balance of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium, all essential nutrients for growth, as well as other important minerals, such as calcium and magnesium, and trace elements such as iron and zinc. In addition to feeding your orchid, make sure the rest of its growing conditions are being met. Water weekly (but avoid letting the soil become waterlogged), mist daily, and ensure you are meeting its temperature requirements. Sometimes, a slight drop in nighttime temperature can trigger your orchid to bloom. Light is also particularly important for flowering – your orchid is unlikely to bloom well unless it is getting enough light to allow its canes to ripen. Move your orchid to an area with good natural light, or if this is not possible, use grow lights to give your orchid 15 hours of light a day. “Don’t be afraid to move them around if they haven’t flowered for over a year as a change will often kickstart the blooms again,” Sara explains. Propagation The best way to propagate Dendrobium orchids is by division, in spring. Ideally, this should only be done once the orchid has outgrown its current pot, and re-potting is absolutely necessary, as orchids do not respond well to being disturbed. You should also make sure your orchid has enough canes to make division viable. To propagate a Dendrobium, you should first carefully remove it from the soil, then gently pull the root ball apart, to create two plants. Re-plant immediately after division, either into the same soil, or new epiphytic orchid compost. Water the propagated plants well, but ensure the soil can drain, so it does not become waterlogged. Common Problems There are several pests you should watch out for on your Dendrobium orchid, including aphids and glasshouse red spider mites, which is encouraged by Dendrobium’s warm and humid growing conditions. “Some common problems that orchid enthusiasts face include overwatering, poor lighting, pests, and nutrient deficiencies,” explains Daniel. “However, these challenges can be easily overcome with a little bit of care and attention.” Dendrobium is also prone to mealybugs. If your plant has an infestation, you might notice the tiny 0.5mm bugs, or miniscule yellow spots on the leaves. To combat an infestation, clean the plant carefully with cotton wool dipped in rubbing alcohol, and repeat after 2 days. “Pests like spider mites and scale insects can be a problem for orchids, but regular inspections and prompt treatment can help keep them at bay,” shares Daniel. “And, to make sure your orchid receives the nutrients it needs to grow and bloom, be sure to fertilise it regularly with a balanced fertiliser.” One other way to help prevent pests with your orchid is to ensure it has plenty of space for air to circulate around it – you could even use a fan if necessary, to promote this. Other than pests, there are not many common diseases you need to worry about with your Dendrobium. Probably the most common problem growers encounter with Dendrobium orchids is dry leaves. “Orchids sulk when they’re not happy with the conditions you offer them,” explains Paul. “When they’re not happy, they soon let you know. The plant becomes weak, leaves can turn yellow, leaf tips can go brown and soon the plant becomes susceptible to pests such as mealy bugs. “When orchids start to show signs of being stressed, it can be tricky and time-consuming to return them to good health. “It’s therefore important that you check your plants regularly to catch any issues before they take hold.” If your orchid’s leaves look dry or have brown tips, it is most likely due to low humidity. You can increase the humidity around your plant by using a humidifier – its ideal humidity level is 50–70%. If your plant’s leaves are yellow, it may also be too warm, so move it to a cooler location, out of direct sunlight. References 1. Dendrobium. (n.d.). American Orchid Society. Retrieved March 14, 2023, from https://www.aos.org/orchids/orchids-a-to-z/letter-d/dendrobium.aspx 2. Dendrobium (group). (n.d.). Missouri Botanical Garden. Retrieved March 14, 2023, from https://www.missouribotanicalgarden.org/PlantFinder/PlantFinderDetails.aspx?kempercode=b625 3. Dendrobium spectabile. (2020, May 22). Hawaii Tropical Bioreserve & Garden. Retrieved March 14, 2023, from https://htbg.com/dendrobium-spectabile/
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How To Grow Amaryllis Plant - The Wintertime Favourite Also Known As Hippeastrum
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Common Varieties Habitat & Growing Conditions Hippeastrum Care Common Problems References The Amaryllis plant, often considered a type of lily, is a wintertime favourite. Correctly called Hippeastrum, this houseplant bears colourful blooms in the form of a bell with its six tapered petals giving it a star shape. They come in a range of striking and brilliant hues. Some are two-toned, others have a central blaze, or even delicate veining. Eye-catching, charming, dazzling – all these adjectives and more can truthfully be applied to one or another species or cultivar of this ever-popular indoor plant. The amaryllis, a bulbous perennial, brightens up many homes during the festive season as it has the felicitous facility of flowering right around Christmas. The bulb can be induced into dormancy at any time after blooming. Similarly, it can also be ‘timed’ to bear flowers at the most suitable period by re-planting the bulb six to eight weeks before you want it to flower. Nurseries have long been selling amaryllis cultivars during November with the bulbs primed or ‘forced’ to flower in late December. Overview Botanical Name Hippeastrum Common Name(s) Amaryllis Plant Type Bulb / Perennial Flower Native Area South America Hardiness Rating H1-H2 Foliage Slightly fleshy strap leaves Flowers Large, funnel-shaped blooms in various hues When To Sow January, October, November, December Flowering Months January, February, March, April, December Native to South America, Hippeastrum species have been cultivated, crossed, and bred for a few centuries to create an amazing array of flowers.1 Most amaryllis plants are easy to grow and maintain indoors which is yet another reason for their popularity. If the bulb is treated with care, it will produce flowers for many years. Common Varieties To begin with, Hippeastrum is a genus with over 90 species to which one must add the 600-plus hybrids and cultivars of amaryllis that derive from Hippeastrum species.2 We outline a mere handful of the notable ones below – Hippeastrum papilio is a Brazilian species whose flowers are of an odd yet riveting colour combination. The outer parts of the tepals are a varying but light shade of green while the inner part ranges from carmine to maroon, often with striations. Bearing distinctly trumpet-shaped flowers of a soft vermilion hue, Hippeastrum miniatum is a decorative enough species so as to contend with the showiest of cultivars. Peruvian-Bolivian native Hippeastrum pardinum bears flowers which are star-shaped and open, with the reddish freckles and spots on yellowish tepals making it one of the most beguiling blooms. H. puniceum Hippeastrum puniceum commonly called Barbados Lily also has open, star-shaped flowers; their colour ranges from pale orange to vermilion, with a central splash of yellow to make for the prettiest of flowers. Giving the Barbados Lily species heavy competition is the ‘Orange Sovereign‘ cultivar; a variety whose flowers are of a single solid hue. The simplicity of the colour scheme and the deep flame colour combine to make for an eye-catching flower. ‘Orange Sovereign’ ‘The Red Lion’ has flowers with a rounded contour and its tepals are curved and mounded, and of a crimson hue. It is a very luxurious cultivar. ‘Minerva’, not dissimilar in shape to ‘Red Lion’, is of a more sedate shade of red but, unlike ‘Red Lion’, it has a blaze and lengthwise bands of white, making it one of the most charming cultivars. ‘Candy Floss’ ‘Candy Floss‘, true to its name, is of a candy floss pink except that this well-balanced flower’s colour comprises of many hues and tints of pink in streaks, striations, and veins. Plump, well-rounded tepals bearing red dots and spots and daubs on a white background make the ‘Flamenco Queen‘ appear voluptuous yet shy and vulnerable. The ‘White Peacock‘ – an obvious contradiction in terms – though a ‘double flower,’ has three sets of tepals. Pure white, it conveys both restraint and elegance. ‘White Peacock’ The ‘Viridi Rascal‘ is also white but this single flower has vivid red striations and red edging on its tepals combined with gentle ridging, with the overall effect one of delicate beauty. The vast range of the species and cultivars of this delightful plant means that regardless of your taste, there is a feast for the eyes and a treat for the senses for every flower enthusiast. Habitat & Growing Conditions Hippeastrum occurs in nature mainly in the tropical and sub-tropical regions of South America. Different species prefer their own place in the sun – or the shade! That is, Hippeastrum species range in preference from full sun to mostly shade. A few like damp soil and others occur in dry earth with most species preferring areas with regular rainfall but good soil drainage. Hardiness As a garden plant, amaryllis cultivars are hardy in USDA Zones 8 through 11 (RHS Zones H1C – H5) though some, like Hippeastrum x johnsonii, are hardy down to USDA Zone 5 (RHS Zone H7). A cultivar may perish during a freeze or a frost – most cultivars do best in screened sun or morning sun. The most important requirement is that the soil must drain well and not retain any water. You can transfer your garden amaryllis indoors for the winter by simply removing the bulb from its bed at the beginning of autumn and inducing dormancy by keeping it in a cool, dark place without water or fertiliser for two to three weeks and then re-planting it in a pot. Hippeastrum Care Though Hippeastrum makes a lovely addition to any garden, our guide treats it as a houseplant. If you plant a cultivar outdoors simply adapt the guidelines accordingly. Use a largeish flower-pot because amaryllis plants are, to some or another degree, top-heavy. Aim for a room temperature of 20-21°C and place the pot where it will get four to six hours of sun daily. Soil Requirements The best soil pH range for amaryllis is between 6 and 7. Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly advises: “For many potted bulbs I usually use a peat-free John Innes no.2 growing medium (the name of the ‘recipe’ rather than the producer – it is sold by different companies).” “This has added grit for drainage but also good nutrient content and moisture retention – perfect for most bulbs in pots.” The soil should be composed of about one-third perlite or gravel and two-thirds of some combination of peat moss, loam, or compost. Plant the bulb so that about one-third of it is above the soil; it is imperative that the nose not be covered by soil. It is just as imperative that the soil drains properly. Watering & Feeding Upon planting the bulb immediately water it thoroughly and thereafter water it lightly or moderately every few days. As leaves and stalks sprout, watering should gradually be increased in amount and frequency, and fertilise every two months with a 10-10-10 houseplant fertiliser keeping in mind that it is worse to over-fertilise amaryllis than to under-fertilise it. A good rule of thumb is to water when the topsoil is dry to the touch, to water once or twice a week, and to try to keep the soil just moist but never wet. Plant the bulb in October to enjoy blooms during the holiday season. Common Problems Bulb Rot Hippeastrum is vulnerable to various diseases – where bulb rot is concerned, prevention is better than cure. Assuming healthy bulbs, the only causes for this disease are overwatering, waterlogged soil, and poor drainage. Therefore, if you make sure not to overwater and also ensure that your soil drains well, you eliminate bulb rot. Pests Pests like mealybugs, aphids, mites, grasshoppers, and bulb maggots can attack the plant with mealybugs being the most common houseplant pest. Grasshoppers lay egg pods beside amaryllis bulbs. These hatch in spring and cover the plant. Here too, prevention is the better option. Keep checking your plants for these pests and if you observe them, dislodge the smaller pests with blasts of water and remove grasshoppers by hand. If the problem persists, use an insecticidal soap solution. Dilute to specifications and spray on the plant. If your mealybug-infested plant is in the garden, you can release beneficial insects like ladybugs – these prey upon mealybugs. Aphids are perhaps the most dangerous of pests because they breed rapidly and in numbers, and cause irreversible harm to the plant. “If you spot an aphid infestation, use an insecticidal soap and/or blast off with water,” adds Colin. Bulb mites are more difficult to spot for obvious reasons. A side benefit of annual removal of the bulb from the soil and later re-planting is that you can inspect the bulb for mites (and other pests or disease, bruising, and onset of rot). References 1. Hippeastrum aviflorum. (n.d.). Kew Royal Botanic Gardens. Retrieved March 9, 2023, from https://powo.science.kew.org/taxon/urn:lsid:ipni.org:names:993998-1 2. Hippeastrum Herb. (n.d.). Global Biodiversity Information Facility. Retrieved March 9, 2023, from https://www.gbif.org/species/144107351
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A Poinsettia Is Not Just For Christmas: How To Care For Your Plant Year-Round
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Plant Care Habitat & Growing Conditions Buying Poinsettia How To Make Poinsettias Rebloom Common Problems References When you think of poinsettias, you almost certainly think of Christmas. With their star-like leaves and (most commonly) red and green colour, these vibrant flowering plants make a popular addition to many UK homes over the festive season. Yet to bring it into your home during its December flowering period, only to discard it weeks later, does the poinsettia an injustice. In fact, if properly cared for, this colourful plant can survive the rest of the year in the UK, ready to bloom again next Christmas. As the poinsettia is native to Mexico, it does require some care and attention to keep it alive this far north – this is not a plant you can leave to fend for itself.1 We’ve put together this guide to the best poinsettia care and growing tips, to show you how you can keep a poinsettia healthy throughout the year, and benefit from its beautiful display of festive flowers for a second season – because a poinsettia isn’t just for Christmas! Overview Botanical Name Euphorbia pulcherrima Common Name(s) Poinsettia Plant Type Houseplant Native Area Mexico and Central America Hardiness Rating H1-H2 Foliage Evergreen houseplant Flowers Grown for bright red bracts When To Sow May Flowering Months January, December The poinsettia (Euphorbia pulcherrima) is a perennial shrub, native to the sub-tropical forests of Mexico and Central America. The plant gets its name from Joel Roberts Poinsett, a US diplomat based in Mexico, who was the first person to bring it to the US in 1828 – from where it was cultivated and sold around the world.2 National Poinsettia Day is celebrated on 12th December, to commemorate the anniversary of his death.3 Other names for poinsettia include Mexican Flame Leaf, Winter Rose and Noche Buena, as well as the more festive Christmas Flower and Christmas Star. The poinsettia is a hugely popular plant for the festive season, and many households will purchase one to display as a decoration in December, and then discard it come January. Potted poinsettias typically reach a height of up to 60cm and a spread of up to 40cm. As well as the most popular flaming red colour, poinsettia bracts (as the colourful leaves are more accurately known) can be orangey, yellow, pink or white. Hybrids with bi-coloured and marbled leaves are also available – in fact, there are now over 100 different varieties of named poinsettias.4 The coloured bracts surround the true flower of the plant, which are the yellow and green clusters at the centre. As the bracts are leaves, not petals, they last much longer than regular flowers (up to 12 weeks), which is what enables people to display them in their homes for such a lengthy amount of time over the festive period. Plant Care Sunlight Poinsettias require bright, filtered light in order to thrive. Their ideal growing temperature is 15–20°C, although they can go down to 13°C around pruning time (April). The best place to put them is on a windowsill or in a greenhouse, where they can bask in non-direct sunlight. You can also place them outside in a sheltered area of the garden, during summertime only. Watering Poinsettias require sufficient water, but not too much. You should aim to water the plant only when the top layer of its soil is almost completely dry. Be very careful not to over-water your poinsettia, as this can lead to root rot and can kill the plant. Poinsettias flower in humid conditions, so you can mist your plant during winter to replicate this. Habitat & Growing Conditions The native habitat of poinsettias is in the sub-tropical forests of Mexico, where they grow on hillsides and wooded ravines, and thrive in semi-cool, humid conditions, with lots of sunlight. Their flowering period is during winter, December to January, during which time they experience short days of 10-12 hours. The ideal growing temperature for poinsettias is between 15-20°C. They grow in loose soil with good drainage – they like it to be moist, but not waterlogged, as this can cause root rot. In warm, tropical climates, poinsettia shrubs growing outside can reach heights of up to 3m – much larger than the potted versions grown in the UK. Buying Poinsettia The best place to buy a poinsettia is from a reputable garden centre, where it will (hopefully) have been taken care of in the proper way i.e. kept warm and given the correct amount of water. Poinsettias are also available to purchase from many supermarkets and shops around Christmas time. However, they will often have been treated in the same way as the rest of the flowers on sale, and may have been under or overwatered, and placed in a draughty area near the door, which is too cold for the plant to remain healthy. We’d advise you never buy a poinsettia from an outdoor market, for the same reason. You should always check the soil of your poinsettia prior to purchasing – the soil of a well-cared-for plant should be slightly damp, but not too wet. Once purchased, wrap the plant carefully in paper or a plastic bag when taking it home from the shop during winter, to prevent damage to the leaves from cold temperatures. A plant which has been grown in the UK will be more hardened to our climate, so try to buy locally if you can. How To Make Poinsettias Rebloom In order to make your poinsettia re-bloom the following December, you’ll need to care for it throughout the year and replicate its natural growing conditions. This includes pruning it in spring and repotting it in early May. You should then keep your poinsettia in a light place at a temperature of 15-18°C. Once the new growth has reached 15–20cm, pinch the tips to encourage branching. The key to making your poinsettia re-bloom is to replicate its short winter days. Come autumn, start leaving it in the light for 10 hours, then moving it to an entirely dark room, devoid of any natural or artificial light, for the remaining 14 hours. If you don’t have a suitable room, you could cover the poinsettia with a large box instead. Ensure the daytime temperature remains constant at around 18-20°C (the nightly temperature can be slightly cooler, around 13-15°C). Continue to do this every day, without fail, until December, and the bracts should hopefully start to turn colourful again. Getting a poinsettia to re-bloom is not an easy task, and you shouldn’t be disheartened if it doesn’t happen. “Commercial growers control the conditions for Poinsettia growth very carefully, closely monitoring temperature, humidity and light exposure to be ready for sale at specific weeks in the year,” says Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly. “Trying to replicate this at home is not easy, so don’t be disheartened!” It’s also important to be aware that, even if you do everything right, poinsettias will not be as impressive second time around. They are likely to be taller and more shrub-like, and their blooms will be vastly inferior compared to the first year’s show. Two years is the maximum you can reasonably expect to get out of the plant. Common Problems Overwatering Although they favour a humid environment, poinsettias are very sensitive to overwatering. Excessive water and poor drainage can cause root and stem rot, and kill the plant. To avoid this problem, make sure to only add water when the surface of the soil has almost – but not completely – dried out. Mould Poinsettias are also susceptible to mould and mildew, which can appear as anything from a dusty white covering, to lesions and brown spots on leaves. Botrytis cinerea (grey mould) is one of the worst culprits. Mould can be caused by watering the leaves, high humidity, and stagnant air in a greenhouse – fight it by increasing airflow, decreasing humidity and applying a preventative fungicide. Leaf Dropping Another common problem that growers face is leaf-dropping. This can occur as a result of overly warm, dry growing conditions. If your poinsettia’s leaves are dying, move it to a slightly cooler location, make sure it has enough water and mist it using a spray bottle to replicate humidity. References 1. Fishburn, J. (2020, December 14). History of Poinsettia. College of Agricultural, Consumer & Environmental Sciences: Illinois Extension. Retrieved March 22, 2023, from https://extension.illinois.edu/blogs/prairies-perennials/2020-12-14-history-poinsettia 2. A Publication of the International Society For Horticultural Science. (2011). Chronica Horticulturae. Retrieved March 22, 2023, from https://www.actahort.org/chronica/pdf/ch5103.pdf 3. Poinsett’s Popular Poinsettia. (2013, December 12). US House of Representatives: History, Art & Archives. Retrieved March 22, 2023, from https://history.house.gov/Blog/2013/December/12-12-Poinsett/ 4. Poinsettia Facts – The Poinsettia Pages. (n.d.). University of Illinois Extension. Retrieved March 22, 2023, from https://web.extension.illinois.edu/poinsettia/facts.cfm
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