Growing
Growing Ficus Elastica ‘Rubber Plant’ - They Add A Lot Of Colour To A Home
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Why Grow A Rubber Tree? How To Grow A Rubber Plant Rubber Tree Care Common Problems References If you or your friends keep houseplants, it’s very likely that you’ve seen at least one Ficus elastica in your life. This popular plant is ideal for growing at home thanks to its distinct and attractive aesthetic, its resistance to pests, and its general low maintenance requirements. Overview Botanical Name Ficus elastica Common Name(s) Rubber Tree, Rubber Plant, India Rubber Plant Plant Type Houseplant / Tree Native Area East Himalaya to North Malaysia Hardiness Rating H1B Foliage Evergreen Flowers Inconspicuous When To Sow (Indoors) Year-Round Flowering Months May, June When To Prune February, March F. elastica is the botanical name for a plant more commonly known as rubber plant, rubber tree, Assam rubber, India rubber fig, and many other names. According to records from Kew, its native range spans much of South East Asia and Southern China.1 Confusingly, another plant called Hevea brasiliensis also goes by the names ‘Rubber Tree’ and ‘Rubber Plant’; this species is the primary source of natural rubber. Why Grow A Rubber Tree? F. elastica ticks many of the boxes that houseplant enthusiasts look for: It’s pretty to look at, boasting thick rubbery leaves that hold a lot of colour. There are a variety of shades and colours available, from greens through to burgundies. It’s not too big. While the plant can grow over 20 metres tall in its natural habitat, a houseplant will clock in around a metre. It’s easy to look after, requiring no special treatment and fairly infrequent watering. It’s unlikely to attract pests, meaning there’s less scope for things to go wrong. It’s easy to clean – if yours are liable to get dusty, F. elastica’s strong leaves lend themselves well to a gentle rubdown. Easy enough to appeal to beginners, but versatile and attractive enough to remain appealing to even the most seasoned experts. How To Grow A Rubber Plant Buying a mature rubber plant is probably the most popular way of incorporating one into your squadron of houseplants, and they’re fairly cheap to buy from most gardening shops. If you’re feeling adventurous, though, they’re not too challenging to grow from seeds or cuttings. Growing From Seed Unlike many seeds, you don’t need to bury a rubber plant seed in soil to get it growing. Instead, leave it in a tray or container in indirect sunlight, and spritz it a few times a day to keep it moist. You can place a light cloth over the seed whilst you spritz it to ensure better coverage. Once the seed has sprouted, usually after a week or so, you can relocate it to a pot. Aim for loam-based compost, and continue to keep the seedling in indirect light while it builds strength. Be gentle when moving the seedling as it will be very delicate. Growing From A Cutting Taking a cutting from a mature plant is a great way to get a new rubber plant. “Houseplants are more often sold as plants than seeds, so cuttings might be the best way to add to your plant collection, especially for Ficus, which roots quite readily,” shares Colin Skelly, a Horticultural Consultant. “If your plant is growing happily then your cuttings should grow well in the same position until they are large enough to move elsewhere.” You’re looking to cut about 10cm of the stem from the mother plant; taking care to make sure there are 2 or 3 leaf nodes on the stem (a node is a section where the leaf joins the stem). Then, you need to plant the stem in soil mixed with rooting medium. Plant up to half of the stem below the soil, with all the leaves above the surface, then water the soil, cover the plant with plastic and leave it to grow. After a couple of weeks the stem will have rooted beneath the soil. When the roots are between 3-5cm long, it’s safe to relocate the plant to a bigger pot – again, be gentle! Rubber Tree Care Fertilising For optimal condition, give your rubber plant a dose of liquid fertiliser every couple of weeks during the spring and summer months. Check the label of the fertiliser you use to ensure the correct dilution, as you don’t want to overfeed your plant. Watering One of the most common causes of rubber plant problems is over-watering, so read this section carefully. Rubber plants only need watering when the soil begins to feel dry. Poke a finger an inch or so into the soil and water when things are starting to feel dry. Don’t wait until it’s bone dry, and don’t water when the soil is clearly moist, either. You should only keep rubber plants in pots with sufficient drainage – this gives water ample opportunity to be absorbed into the plant, while allowing excess water to drain away. Pruning As we mentioned earlier, in the wild, rubber plants can grow to enormous heights exceeding 20-30m. Unless you live in an equally enormous house, it’s unlikely you’ll want your plant to reach full height. Thankfully, pruning rubber plants is easy – simply trim the top off of your plant when it reaches the desired height. You can also tidy up leaves further down the plant, cutting them back to keep things looking orderly. Ideally you’d do this in the spring and summer months, but if you have a sudden desire to prune in the other seasons, your plant will be able to recover. Common Problems In the watering section we mentioned that over-watering is one of the most common issues. Here’s what else to look for in a rubber plant – Losing Leaves Wilting, damaged, and dying leaves are the main symptom of over-watering. If you’re seeing this, water less frequently, remind yourself when to water, and consider repotting your plant into dryer soil. Pests When grown under glass, rubber plants are prone to mites, scale bugs, mealy bugs, and other pests. These critters can cause various mayhem to plants, often involving feeding on the sap inside their leaves. With a pest infestation it’s likely you’ll be able to see eggs, excrement, or the bugs themselves with the naked eye. The first step is to remove them by hand and gently clean the leaf – then give it a few days and see if the problematic visitors return. If so, you’ll want to move on to pesticides – choosing a product that discourages ongoing visits whilst avoiding damage to your plant. There are a variety of products available, ranging in strength and price. References 1. Ficus elastica. (n.d.). Kew Royal Botanic Gardens. Retrieved March 15, 2023, from https://powo.science.kew.org/taxon/urn:lsid:ipni.org:names:60458499-2
Learn more
Don't Ignore These 5 Essential Monstera Care Tips For Incredible Fenestration
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Why Grow A Swiss Cheese Plant? 1) Grow Them In Bright, Indirect Sunlight Fenestration 2) Make Sure There Is Sufficient Drainage 3) Water When The Top 2 Inches Are Dry 4) Wipe Your Leaves And Mist To Maintain Humidity 5) Take Cuttings In Summer To Clone Your Plant References Monstera deliciosa, otherwise known as ‘Swiss Cheese Plant’ is a common houseplant to grow indoors. It is a subtropical plant which I like to place in a bright area indoors – usually with indirect light, and moderate to high humidity. In certain parts of the UK, it may also be grown in partial shade in a sheltered, frost-free area, but it is more common (and much more straightforward) to grow this subtropical plant as a houseplant in our temperate climes. Overview Botanical Name Monstera deliciosa Common Name(s) Swiss Cheese Plant, Ceriman, Custard Plant Plant Type Houseplant Native Area Mexico to Panama Hardiness Rating H1B Foliage Evergreen Flowers Lily-like white flowers, followed by conical cream fruit When To Sow (Indoors) Year-Round Flowering Months June, July This species of flowering plant is native to subtropical and tropical forests in Mexico and further south as far as Panama.1 Its common name as a houseplant ‘Swiss cheese plant’ comes from the holes that develop in the leaves, which resemble the holes in some Swiss cheeses. The same name is also sometimes applied to Monstera adansonii, which also has holes in the leaves. However, Monstera deliciosa is more common and is the main subject of this article. The holes develop through a process known as ‘fenestration’.2 It is believed that the holes develop as a mechanism to allow as much light as possible through to lower foliation. M. deliciosa takes its botanical name from ‘monstrous’ – a reference to the large size to which this plant can grow in its native range – and ‘delicious’, a reference to the edible fruit. Unfortunately, however, while the plant flowers readily in the subtropics and tropics, forcing it to flower and fruit outside its native range proves extremely difficult. Specific conditions need to be met for the plant to flower, and it is very rare to see this in the UK or elsewhere when the plant is grown indoors. The M. deliciosa is a member of the arum family (Araceae).4 It is an epiphyte climber, with aerial roots.5 In its native range environment, it can grow up to 20M high, growing up trees towards the light. Even in indoors cultivation, it is a large plant, which can grow to 4-8M and 1.5-2.5M in width if given the opportunity (and grown in a large enough container). Why Grow A Swiss Cheese Plant? M. deliciosa can be a dramatic houseplant – wonderful for adding to an interior design, in a home or office space. It has large glossy leaves, and looks fantastic inside a home of work place. Its architectural qualities mean that this is a plant that can tie a room together. Swiss cheese plant is ideal for growing inside because it can tolerate a reasonably wide range of conditions. It can cope with bright, indirect light and will thrive at temperatures between 20-30°C. However, they will continue to grow at temperatures over 18°C – and can survive down to as low as around 10°C (M. deliciosa has an RHS hardiness rating of H1B).6 They can endure for numerous years when provided with the appropriate conditions. 1) Grow Them In Bright, Indirect Sunlight Swiss cheese plants are usually plants which require very little care. The most crucial thing is to make sure they are in a light location, but not in direct sunlight. I find that it is best to position your plant a few feet away from a window that lets in plenty of light. Remember that your plant will need plenty of room to grow. Do not place your houseplant too close to a radiator, stove, or other heat source – or, near the draft from a door, window, fan, or air conditioning unit. Fenestration If larger leaves do not show holes (‘fenestration’) then this can be because there is not sufficient light. “Think about a forest canopy where shafts of light break through the branches above,” says Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly. “This is the environment you are trying to replicate for your Monstera.” Younger leaves will not perforate immediately, but mature leaves should do so. If mature leaves do not have holes, move the plant to a brighter spot. Brown patches on the leaves can be due to scorching from the sunlight – move the plant out of direct sunlight if you encounter this problem. 2) Make Sure There Is Sufficient Drainage As well as finding the right location for your M. deliciosa, it is also important to choose the right container and growing medium. The container should be deep, and have drainage holes at the base. A heavier container (such as a terracotta or stoneware pot) is ideal, since it will be less likely to tip over and better able to support the weight of the plant as it grows. Remember, as a climber, a Monstera will ultimately need a moss or coir pole as support to cling to with its aerial roots. The container should be filled with a peat-free, all-purpose compost or similar. You should make sure that there is a minimum of one inch of medium around the root system of the plant in all directions. 3) Water When The Top 2 Inches Are Dry One of the most common mistakes people make with this easy and low-maintenance plant is watering too much. It is better for the soil to be on the dry side; how often you will need to water will depend on where exactly you live, the temperatures, season, light levels and other conditions. Without any outsider knowledge, you will have to rely on your own finger: Stick it into the growing medium to see whether the top two inches of the compost mix is dry. When they are, you should water well. Always allow the water to completely drain through afterwards – don’t let your plant sit with wet feet. Remember, your houseplant will typically require far less water during the winter months, especially if you place it in a cooler room. If you water too much, or the excess water does not drain away properly, you may see leaves yellowing and wilting. You may also see ‘tears’ of water at the edges of the leaves. The compost should always be just damp, and never waterlogged. Wilting leaves may be a sign of a problem – showing that you are watering either too much or too little. Check the growing medium to see whether it is too wet or too dry – and also take a look at the roots – it may be time to repot. It can be a good idea, for best results, to feed your plant with an organic houseplant feed around once a month during the spring and summer. 4) Wipe Your Leaves And Mist To Maintain Humidity Since the plants need sunlight for photosynthesis, it is important to keep them clean so the light can get through. The large leaves on a M. deliciosa will tend to attract dust, so it is important to give them a wipe every now and then with a damp cloth. This will keep them looking good – but more importantly, allow plant processes to continue as they should. Wiping over with a damp cloth can also help to keep up humidity levels around the plant. In a dry, centrally heated space, it can also be beneficial to mist the leaves from time to time to keep the humidity up in a drier environment. 5) Take Cuttings In Summer To Clone Your Plant You can also very easily take cuttings from a mature plant – perhaps to give away the mature plant to someone with more space, or to increase your houseplant collection. Cuttings can be taken in springtime or early in summer: Choose a stem which has aerial roots beginning to grow in its lower portion. New roots grow from the white or brown buds across from a leaf. Using a sharp implement, slice through the stem an inch or so below the aerial root. Place this stem into a container with a little water in the base, so the aerial root is underwater. Place this container in a bright spot out of direct sunlight. Replace the water every couple of days, and after 1-2 weeks, new roots should emerge. After lots of roots have formed (usually after 4-6 weeks have elapsed) you can take your cutting and pot it up. References 1. Lachelin, L. (n.d.). Monstera deliciosa. Oxford University Plants. Retrieved March 21, 2023, from https://herbaria.plants.ox.ac.uk/bol/plants400/Profiles/MN/Monstera 2. Muir, C. D. (2013). How Did the Swiss Cheese Plant Get Its Holes? The American Naturalist. https://doi.org/10.1086/668819 4. Monsteras and more: at home with arums. (n.d.). Royal Horticultural Society. Retrieved March 21, 2023, from https://www.rhs.org.uk/garden-inspiration/houseplants/monsteras-and-more 5. Kelly, P. (n.d.). What Are Epiphytes? Jacksonville Zoo and Gardens. Retrieved March 21, 2023, from https://www.jacksonvillezoo.org/blog/posts/what-are-air-plants 6. Monstera deliciosa (F) | Swiss cheese plant. (n.d.). Royal Horticultural Society. Retrieved March 21, 2023, from https://www.rhs.org.uk/plants/11192/monstera-deliciosa-(f)/details
Learn more
Growing Snake Plants - Simple Instructions For This 'Hard-To-Kill' Houseplant
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Why Grow A Snake Plant? How To Grow A Snake Plant Snake Plant Care Common Problems References If you’re looking for a stylish houseplant that’s easy to take care of, let us introduce you to the snake plant. Each of this plant’s striking leaves – dark green with a bold yellow border – pierces proudly upward, reminiscent of a pouncing snake or, maybe a sword or similarly sharp-edged implement. This plant is renowned for being sturdy, and can thrive even in the care of the most laissez-faire gardener. If this is you, then this plant could be just what you need to bring some natural tones to your home. Rather than requiring plenty of tending and delicate care, the snake plant is happy to be bunged on a windowsill and pretty much forgotten about. In this guide, we’ll outline how best to take care of your plant. Overview Botanical Name Dracaena trifasciata Common Name(s) Snake Plant, Mother-In-Law’s Tongue Plant Type Houseplant Native Area West Africa Hardiness Rating H1B Foliage Evergreen Flowers Spikes of small greenish flowers When To Sow Year-Round (Indoors) Flowering Months April, May D. trifasciata, as it’s formally known, goes by many other names, too. Some of these include ‘Mother-In-Law’s Tongue’ and ‘George’s Sword’. The plant originally hails from tropical regions of West Africa, ranging from Nigeria to the Congo.1 Thanks to growing up in these tough conditions, the plant is incredibly hardy, and can easily hold its own inside a temperate living room. Why Grow A Snake Plant? One of the most compelling reasons to grow a snake plant is to bring a little nature into your home, without requiring much effort. Houseplants can transform a room, and many people favour those which don’t need much looking after. Just the occasional drink of water, and enough vigilance to ensure the plant isn’t left to bake above a hot radiator, for example. “Houseplants have undergone a surge in popularity but people are always asking me for recommendations of houseplants that are ‘hard to kill’,” says Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly. “Dracaena trifasciata is one I often recommend for its resilience to most household conditions and a degree of neglect (there are limits!).” The snake plant is a popular choice as a houseplant thanks to its hardiness and ability to tolerate significant neglect. It’s also visually distinctive, offering something a little different from the succulents and rubber plants so many of us have dotted around the house. How To Grow A Snake Plant Most people will opt to buy a fully-grown plant from their local garden centre or online retailer. You can grow snake plant from seed, although seeds are harder to come by and less reliable than easy-to-grow cuttings. In fact, there are three common methods of propagation you might consider – Growing A Cutting In Water Growing from a cutting is simple – just whack the cutting in a container with a shallow layer of water covering about a quarter of it. Then leave this in full sun, changing the water every two days, and wait until roots appear. Once the roots have been visible for a few days, gently transfer the cutting into a pot with soil, and you should be good to go. Growing A Cutting In Soil If you’ve got a cutting, you don’t have to put it in water and wait for roots to appear. Instead, you can simply wait until the site where you removed the cutting from the main plant has ‘healed’, then plant the cutting callous-down into some soil. After a few weeks, it should begin to take root. One of the drawbacks of this method is that you have to trust the roots will appear, rather than being able to see them before planting. Whichever option you go for, bear in mind that baby snake plants make fantastic gifts – and because you can take cuttings over and over again, this plant really can be the gift that keeps on giving. Dividing The Roots If you’ve got access to a mature snake plant, especially one that’s beginning to outgrow the pot it lives in, then division may be your best bet. Here you remove the plant from the soil, gently brush away as much soil from the roots as possible, then look for places where you can tease apart the root system into two or more plants. There’s a bit of a knack to this, and it can feel like you’re destroying the plant rather than propagating it, but if you’re gentle and take care to ensure that each new plant has a sufficient number of roots to allow it to grow, you should be OK. Once you’ve teased apart the root system into two or more plants, just plant each back into its own pot, and wait to see whether they take hold. Snake Plant Care While it doesn’t require much special care, here’s what you need to know to keep your snake plant healthy. Sunlight Thanks to its tropical origins, this plant prefers full sun and a south- or east-facing aspect. Soil Requirements It prefers loamy or sandy soil, and it’s paramount that the soil is able to drain well. Your snake plant won’t thrive in soggy soil! You’re looking for soil that drains fully every few days. A soil mix designed for succulents should provide the ideal conditions for your snake plant. Watering During the summer months, your snake plant will be a very thirsty customer. Expect to water it weekly, gradually dialling back to monthly (or maybe even less frequently) as winter sets in. A good rule of thumb is to push your finger into the soil; if it’s dry at about an inch below the surface, it’s time to add water. (It should be called a rule of finger, really, shouldn’t it?) Fertilising It may not be necessary to fertilise your snake plant, as it’s a fairly rugged specimen. If you notice your plant looking unhealthy, or you’re aware that it’s been a particularly long time since it was fed, though, you can give it a top-up. This plant needs the nutrients found in a cactus or succulent fertiliser. During the peak growing season you can apply fertiliser monthly. Dilute the succulent fertiliser mix so it’s about half mix and half water, and this should satisfy the nutritional needs of your snake plant. Common Problems Snake plants are generally trouble-free, but they do appeal to one type of critter in particular. Vine Weevils Adult vine weevils like to eat leaves and lay eggs, with the resulting grubs then moving on to eat the roots of your plant – all in all, it’s a visit you could do without. Because weevils are quite commonplace in the UK, and because most people grow snake plants indoors where predators can’t keep them in check, you may well find a few. The first step is to stay vigilant, and to manually remove any weevils from the plant. Check for grubs as well as grown-ups – you can then place sticky barriers around the perimeter of your plant, as a means to stop their advancement. If these two methods don’t work, however, you’ll most likely need to move onto pesticides or nematodes (a natural parasite of vine weevil). References 1. Dracaena trifasciata. (n.d.). Kew Royal Botanic Gardens. Retrieved March 15, 2023, from https://powo.science.kew.org/taxon/urn:lsid:ipni.org:names:77164235-1
Learn more
Aloe Vera Growing Secrets We Learned Interviewing Succulent Expert Les Pearcy
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Why Grow Aloe? How To Grow Aloe Ongoing Aloe Care Common Problems References You’ve probably heard of Aloe vera. You’ll see it as an ingredient in plenty of creams and lotions, while bottles of Aloe drink are increasingly common on food shop shelves. Whatever your introduction, the plant itself is a timeless classic. In this guide, we have collaborated with succulent expert Les Pearcy, the Chairperson of The Haworthia Society. “As a child, I was fascinated by these weirdly shaped plants and became hooked – literally with some of the hook-spined cacti!” says Les. “My interest has never waned, and I have been very fortunate to see the plants growing in habitat in Southern Africa, USA and in the Canary, Madeira and Mediterranean Islands. “Their ability to survive in such adverse conditions and then thrive in cultivation continues to captivate.” Overview Botanical Name Aloe vera Plant Type Succulent / Houseplant Native Area Africa, Madagascar, Jordan, Arabian Peninsula and Indian Ocean Islands Hardiness Rating H1C Foliage Evergreen Flowers Small tubular yellow flowers on racemes When To Sow Year-Round (Indoors) Flowering Months July, August In scientific terms, Aloe vera is a succulent belonging to the genus Aloe – containing nearly 600 or so different species.1 Aloe vera is considered the ‘true’ Aloe, the plant most indicative of the genus, because it remains the most visually iconic, and is the source from which the vast majority of commercially used Aloe is obtained. Originally hailing from the Hajar Mountains in Northern Oman, Aloe vera now grows enthusiastically all over the world.2 Despite conditions being quite different in the UK from those the Aloe is accustomed to, the plant has become commonplace here for myriad reasons, as highlighted earlier. Why Grow Aloe? Firstly, it’s an attractive and striking plant. The ridged green stalks jut proudly outward from the soil, held rigid by the gel inside. White blemishes on each stalk break up the dominant bright green colouration, adding visual interest and texture. In full sunlight, the plant has an inarguable vivacity. Secondly, Aloe vera is fairly easy to grow and look after. This may not be a priority for all gardeners, especially those more versed in the art who may deliberately seek out plants that provide a bit of a challenge; but for amateur gardeners and casual interior designers who just want to incorporate a little bit of green, A. vera represents the perfect opportunity. How To Grow Aloe Potting Mix As succulents, A. vera prefers a soil mix designed to encourage good drainage. “They are best grown in a well-draining compost,” says Les. “There are lots of different suggestions for the make-up of the soil, but a standard compost with the addition of sand, grit or perlite will do.” Avoid regular gardening soil and look for something with ingredients like sand, grit, lava rock, or similar. While some guides recommend adding a layer of gravel or similar to the bottom of pots to further encourage drainage, this isn’t required for A. vera, especially if you’re using the right soil. Avoiding this layer gives the roots more space to take hold, and should lead to a healthier plant. A. vera is most frequently grown from cuttings of a mature plant. To grow, fill a container just over halfway with soil, then place the cutting in the soil and add more, making sure the cutting is firmly held in place. Choosing A Container Choosing the right pot is just as important as the right soil, when it comes to keeping your Aloe healthy. A container conducive to moisture, made of terracotta or similar, is recommended. It’s vital that the container has a drainage hole in the bottom, too, to prevent water pooling there (top tip: place some porous mesh between the hole and the soil to allow water out while preventing soil from escaping and making a mess). Choose a pot that’s wider than it is deep in order to give your Aloe space to grow. Preferred Sunlight Also bear in mind that this is a plant built to thrive in hot, dry places. While they’ve spread around the world, the natural conditions favoured by this plant involve a lot of heat and sunlight, and the more faithfully you can recreate this in your home, the better your Aloe vera will grow. “Most Aloes are relatively easy to grow and rely on good light conditions, so a bright sunny windowsill is ideal,” says Les. Choose a spot with a lot of sunlight but where the plant isn’t in full sun all day. The corner of a room or a window sill that doesn’t get full exposure are two good examples. A room temperature of between 15-25°C is typically ideal for your Aloe. Ongoing Aloe Care Fertilising You don’t need to fertilise A. vera much, or even at all. If you decide to do so, use a houseplant formula weakened to about half strength by mixing with regular soil. Add a small amount around the base of your plant every few weeks, during spring and summer. Fertilise a maximum of one time per month. Pruning A. vera plants don’t need much pruning, as a rule. The main reason for cutting your Aloe is to clean up unhealthy sections, or to get at the gel inside. If you’re wondering how to cut an A. vera plant without killing it, simply trim the section off with sharp scissors or trimmers. When trimming dried brown sections from the end of a stalk, just cut the affected section. To get the gel inside, it’s best to select a thick and mature stalk, then cut at the base. “I always keep an Aloe vera on my kitchen window sill – ideally located for any mishaps when cooking!” says Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly. “I also harvest a few offsets, or ‘pups’, every year for giving away to friends and family.” Cutting at an angle facilitates better draining and healthier regrowing for the plant. After you’ve cut off the stalk, wash any dirt from the base, then stand upright in a glass to allow the resins to drain out. These aren’t good for human use and can be discarded. Once these have drained, peel the stalk with a vegetable peeler and put it in a blender until it reaches a milky consistency. Common Problems A. vera is fairly sturdy and isn’t prone to many problems. However, there is a particular pest that can cause some problems for this plant, as Les explains: “The main pest encountered is the mealy bug. These appear as white wool-like masses. “Big infestations are dealt with using insecticide sprays, but the odd insect can be easily removed by using methylated spirits applied with a small paintbrush.” Here we outline a few other issues you may encounter, and how to resolve them – Root / Leaf Rot The biggest risk with A. vera is rot, whether at root or leaf level. The primary cause of such rot is overwatering: a plant that cannot drain properly will sit in moisture, and this creates an environment that facilitates the growth of fungus that leads to rotting. To avoid rot, water infrequently and only when required. Ensure your plant is in well-draining soil, with a hole at the bottom of each container, and in plenty of sunlight. Watering the roots directly, rather than pouring water onto the whole plant, will ensure that leaves and stalks stay as dry as possible, further mitigating the risk. Root-Bound Plants Any plant in a container will eventually become root-bound. This occurs when the root system becomes so dense that the plant can no longer get enough nutrition from the soil. Brown, wilting sections are indicative of root rot – if you suspect this problem, you’ll need to repot your A. vera into a bigger pot. Gently tease it out of the current pot, taking care not to disrupt or damage the roots, then re-pot, taking care to choose a bigger container! Hopefully, you’re enthused and prepared to get an A. vera plant established and thriving in your home. References 1. Aloe L. (n.d.). Kew Royal Botanic Gardens. Retrieved April 4, 2023, from https://powo.science.kew.org/taxon/urn:lsid:ipni.org:names:30106039-2#children 2. Aloe vera. (n.d.). Kew Royal Botanic Gardens. Retrieved March 9, 2023, from https://powo.science.kew.org/taxon/urn:lsid:ipni.org:names:530017-1
Learn more
18 Striking Hanging Succulent Plants For The Home
IN THIS GUIDE Tolerant Of Neglect 1) Donkey’s Tail 2) Ruby Necklace 3) String Of Pearls 4) String Of Dolphins 5) String Of Hearts 6) String Of Nickels 7) String Of Bananas 8) Flowering Kalanchoe 9) Snake Plant 10) Hoya Plant 11) Christmas Cactus 12) Medusa Head 13) Trailing Jade 14) Mistletoe Cactus 15) String Of Turtles 16) Fishbone Cactus 17) Hanging Cactus 18) Mother Of Thousands Low maintenance but high on aesthetic impact, succulents are the perfect houseplant to hang in your home. Do you want to brighten up your homestead with a splash of greenery, but lack the space to do it? If your floors, coffee tables and windowsills are already at capacity, why not look up? Your ceiling offers a great opportunity to maximise the space and introduce some more foliage into your household, all at the same time. Tolerant Of Neglect There are plenty of trailing plants that you can bring into the home in a hanging basket, but succulents make one of the best options out there. That’s due to the fact that they’re incredibly robust and can bounce back even after a prolonged period without water, making them ideal for forgetful gardeners. They’re also accustomed to the warmer temperatures brought about by central heating, so they’re well-suited to pretty much any room in the house. Some humid-loving varieties will even thrive in the bathroom! If you’re interested in bringing more succulents into your home but aren’t sure where to start, this handy collection of suggestions will point you in the right direction. 1) Donkey’s Tail BOTANICAL NAME: Sedum morganianum LENGTH: Up to 1.2M SUNLIGHT: FULL SUN WATERING: KEEP WELL-DRAINED It’s not difficult to see why this trailing succulent has earned the moniker of Donkey’s tail. The fleshy stems will hang over the edges of your hanging basket, with clusters of pastel green leaves clumping together in a form that resembles the pleat of a rope – or that of an ass’s posterior. If you’re lucky, the plant will produce small, star-shaped flowers of a pale red come summertime. Like most succulents, Donkey’s tail requires a mere modicum of care. Simply place it in a spot that receives decent amounts of light and water it when the soil loses its moisture in the warmer months, cutting back on irrigation in winter. Be sure to never let it dry out completely, however, and keep away from humid settings such as bathrooms and kitchens. Reassess its size every couple of years and repot in a bigger container if necessary. “Sedum morganianum makes an eye-catching trailing succulent,” says Horticultural Consultant Colin Skelly. “It is easy to propagate too. You can cut stems and re-root or even remove the succulent leaves and leave them on a tray of horticultural grit. After a couple of weeks, they will start to root.” 2) Ruby Necklace BOTANICAL NAME: Crassothonna capensis LENGTH: Up to 0.4M SUNLIGHT: FULL SUN / PART SHADE WATERING: KEEP WELL-DRAINED Originally hailing from South Africa, Ruby necklace offers its owners a mesmerising display of different colours. The stems themselves are perhaps its most eye-catching aspect on first glance and are what give the plant its name, being a full ruby red or purple hue. Though the leaves are typically a deep green, prolonged exposure to the sun will encourage them to take on the characteristics of the stems, leading to a real ruby necklace display! And in summer, the daisy-like yellow flowers offer the perfect contrast to the purplish backdrop behind. Unlike many of the other options on this list, Ruby necklace does well even under the direct gaze of the sun and, as mentioned above, will reward you with a colourful transformation if it is placed in such a spot. All it really requires to thrive is well-drained soil and a pot with drainage holes to ensure it doesn’t become waterlogged and suffer from root rot. 3) String Of Pearls BOTANICAL NAME: Senecio rowleyanus LENGTH: Up to 1M SUNLIGHT: ANY WATERING: INFREQUENT; ALLOW TO DRY OUT String of pearls have become a hugely popular hit on social media in recent years and it’s not hard to see why. Their trailing, tendril-like stems – which can reach up to almost a metre in length – are dotted with small, spherical leaves that resemble pearls and retain water. This latter fact means that String of pearls is drought-resistant and actually prefers less moisture, so wait until the soil completely dries out before watering it. It enjoys bright spots but doesn’t do so well in direct sunlight, although they’re hardy little creatures who will adapt well to most environments. For that reason, they’re easy to propagate, as well; simply replant a cutting in a fresh pot of soil and water it regularly until the roots take hold. 4) String Of Dolphins BOTANICAL NAME: Dendrophorbium peregrinum LENGTH: Up to 0.8M SUNLIGHT: INDIRECT WATERING: INFREQUENT; ALLOW TO DRY OUT Every bit as photogenic as its pearl-shaped cousin, String of dolphins has that unusual name due to the unusual shape of its leaves. It also boasts trailing stems studded with fleshy leaves, but these have a beautifully crescent-shaped format, with a small protuberance at one side which resembles the fin of a dolphin. They’re also known as String of fishhooks for the same reason, but we know which name we prefer. For the sheer novelty of their appearance, String of dolphins are an excellent complement to an ocean-themed setting, but don’t introduce them into the bathroom, since the humidity will sap their strength. Instead, keep them in a spot which receives some sunlight but not direct exposure, since that may cause the poor little dolphins to burn, while the soil should be allowed to dry out before watering. 5) String Of Hearts BOTANICAL NAME: Ceropegia woodii LENGTH: Up to 4M SUNLIGHT: BRIGHT BUT INDIRECT WATERING: KEEP WELL-DRAINED Are you noticing a theme develop yet? String of hearts are so named for the romantic shape of their leaves, which dangle from the trailing vines of the plant itself. They’re quick-growing plants and can reward you with an attractive beaded curtain-like effect in next to no time – but be sure to position them in a location with plenty of space below, since their vines have been known to reach up to four metres in length! Like the other succulents mentioned above, String of Hearts do best in bright but indirect sunlight, since too much ultraviolet exposure will singe the foliage. They’re also prone to root rot if their soil is allowed to retain moisture too much, so ensure they’re placed in a pot with good soil drainage and a hole at the bottom. 6) String Of Nickels BOTANICAL NAME: Dischidia nummularia LENGTH: Up to 0.5M SUNLIGHT: BRIGHT BUT INDIRECT WATERING: KEEP WELL-DRAINED No prizes for guessing that the English name of this trailing succulent was coined by an American! But despite its US moniker, String of nickels is actually native to the southeast Asian tropical rainforest, meaning you can bring a little of that eastern exoticism into your own home by transplanting it to a domestic setting! It doesn’t require much water but does thrive in humidity and heat, so it’s an ideal choice for a bathroom or kitchen, since those rooms best replicate the conditions found in the rainforest. Another interesting fact about String of nickels is that it’s an epiphyte plant, which means that it will willingly grow on top of other plants and organisms. Put simply, it doesn’t care much for personal space or have any idea of what boundaries are socially acceptable! This means that you might need to be proactive when it comes to paring back and pruning, unless you want your whole home interior to be covered with tiny nickel-shaped leaves. 7) String Of Bananas BOTANICAL NAME: Curio radicans LENGTH: Up to 1M SUNLIGHT: FULL SUN WATERING: KEEP WELL-DRAINED Native to South Africa, this stunning little succulent is the last in our “String of…” series. As you might have guessed, it’s named for the banana-like leaves which dangle from its thick, lengthy stems. Though not quite as prolific as String of hearts, the vines of String of bananas can reach a metre in length, so ensure there is plenty of room for them to grow and develop from your hanging basket. String of bananas will do equally well indoors as they will al fresco, as long as they’re not placed in direct sunlight and their soil isn’t allowed to become waterlogged. They don’t like the cold, however, so if you are hanging them outdoors, you’ll likely need to bring them inside when the mercury begins to drop. 8) Flowering Kalanchoe BOTANICAL NAME: Kalanchoe blossfeldiana LENGTH: Up to 0.5M SUNLIGHT: FULL SUN OR BRIGHT BUT INDIRECT WATERING: KEEP WELL-DRAINED Unlike all previous entrants on this list, Flowering kalanchoe is not a trailing succulent, but a more compact and self-contained alternative. However, you shouldn’t be put off by that fact, since its stunning foliage and flower blooms are sure to catch the eye. There are many different types of the species, which are generally divided by colour rather than cultivar. Choose from red, yellow, orange, pink, lilac, salmon, white or green flowering types to tailor the plant to the décor already in place in your home. The thick flesh on the plant’s leaves allows it to retain moisture, so weekly watering is sufficient to give Flowering kalanchoe all the encouragement it needs. The species is also a short-day plant, which means that buds will appear when it enjoys fewer than 12 hours of light. Because of that fact, it’s possible to manipulate the plant’s exposure to light and trick it into thinking that it’s winter all year round, thus ensuring floral displays whatever the month. 9) Snake Plant BOTANICAL NAME: Dracaena trifasciata LENGTH: Up to 3M SUNLIGHT: INDIRECT WATERING: KEEP WELL-DRAINED Who doesn’t love a snake plant? These drought- and shade-resistant plants can literally go weeks without water or light without losing their lustre, while their stiff, pointed leaves with unusual patterns are reminiscent of the scales on a snake’s back. Like the Flowering kalanchoe mentioned above, Snake plants aren’t trailing species, but their upright foliage can look equally effective hanging from the ceiling as it does sprouting from the floor. Just remember that the plants can grow up to a maximum of three metres in height, so you may need to transplant them into a larger pot with regularity. They are, however, very easy to divide and propagate in other pots. Although they’re more than a match for temporary darkness, they’ll thrive best and their leaves will look the most impressive when granted prolonged exposure to medium or bright levels of light. 10) Hoya Plant BOTANICAL NAME: Hoya carnosa LENGTH: Up to 1.5M SUNLIGHT: BRIGHT BUT INDIRECT WATERING: KEEP WELL-DRAINED Rather than trail, hoya plants are climbers. This means that depending upon where you place the hanging basket, you can encourage quite stunning arrangements in and around your own. Besides its lengthy vines, hoyas are well known for their beautiful blossoms. The plant produces clusters of star-shaped flowers in white, pink and other soft tones, which all together form a globe. In full bloom, it’s quite a breath-taking sight. Hoyas are native to Australia, Indonesia, India, China and several other parts of Asia. That means they need both warmth and brightness, but they don’t cope well in direct sunlight, so choose your spot carefully. Hoya carnosa is one of the most commonly found types of the species, but plenty of others are available. If you’d like a similar effect but without the climbing aspect, Hoya bella is a smaller and more compact alternative that works well in hanging baskets. 11) Christmas Cactus BOTANICAL NAME: Schlumbergera bridgesii LENGTH: Up to 0.25M SUNLIGHT: ANY WATERING: INFREQUENT; ALLOW TO DRY OUT While all cacti are succulents, not all succulents are cacti! This festive specimen is ideal for hanging around your home as the Yuletide season approaches, since its brilliant flowers blossom in the winter months. However, it’s just as attractive the rest of the year, too, with its chunky segmented stems that will trail over the edge of your basket. Best of all, it’s not as spiky as some of its other cacti brethren, so you can put away the gloves when handling it. Although the Christmas cactus can cope in low-level light, it will produce better and more regular blooms in brighter locations. It also likes a little more water than many other cacti, so ensure the top of the soil is kept moist (but not soaking wet). To propagate, simply cut out a Y-shaped fragment from the extremity of its stems and re-plant up to a quarter of its height in fresh soil. 12) Medusa Head BOTANICAL NAME: Euphorbia caput-medusae LENGTH: Up to 0.9M SUNLIGHT: FULL SUN WATERING: REGULAR As the name suggests, this exotic succulent bears a striking resemblance to a seething den of snakes, much like those found on the head of Greek mythological creature Medusa. When hanging from the ceiling, the head-height position of Medusa head makes it all the more impactful. They’re a thirstier type of succulent than most of their counterparts, so be sure to water them regularly. They also need six hours of sun per day to reach their full potential, but they can become stressed if they receive too much UV light. However, as a succulent, they’re still pretty resilient if either light or water is taken away from them for a few days and should bounce back well. 13) Trailing Jade BOTANICAL NAME: Peperomia rotundifolia LENGTH: Up to 0.3M SUNLIGHT: BRIGHT BUT INDIRECT WATERING: INFREQUENT; ALLOW TO DRY OUT 14) Mistletoe Cactus BOTANICAL NAME: Rhipsalis heteroclada LENGTH: Up to 1M SUNLIGHT: BRIGHT BUT INDIRECT WATERING: INFREQUENT; ALLOW TO DRY OUT 15) String Of Turtles BOTANICAL NAME: Peperomia prostrata LENGTH: Up to 0.3M SUNLIGHT: BRIGHT BUT INDIRECT WATERING: KEEP WELL-DRAINED 16) Fishbone Cactus BOTANICAL NAME: Disocactus anguliger LENGTH: Up to 0.3M SUNLIGHT: BRIGHT BUT INDIRECT WATERING: INFREQUENT; ALLOW TO DRY OUT 17) Hanging Cactus BOTANICAL NAME: Lepismium bolivianum LENGTH: Up to 1M SUNLIGHT: INDIRECT WATERING: INFREQUENT; ALLOW TO DRY OUT 18) Mother Of Thousands BOTANICAL NAME: Kalanchoe daigremontiana LENGTH: Up to 1M SUNLIGHT: INDIRECT WATERING: INFREQUENT; ALLOW TO DRY OUT
Learn more
How To Grow Ginger Under Cover In A Greenhouse, Polytunnel, Or Inside Your Home
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Why Grow Ginger? How To Grow Ginger Habitat & Growing Conditions Ginger Plant Care Even in the temperate UK climate, you can grow tropical plants like ginger at home. However, it is important to understand that ginger is not a plant that you can just pop in your outdoor garden. This is something you will have to grow under cover in a greenhouse or polytunnel, or inside your home. If you plan and prepare correctly, and take care of your plants with their needs in mind, you can succeed in growing ginger in the UK. “It can be great fun growing tropical crops in the UK, even if the harvest might dubiously justify the effort,” says Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly. “There are ornamental gingers but growing from a supermarket stem sounds like a great project to get children engaged with where their food comes from!” Overview Botanical Name Zingiber officinale Common Name(s) Ginger Plant Type Perennial / Houseplant Native Area Island South-East Asia Hardiness Rating H1A Foliage Slender pseudo-stems Flowers Purple flowers; uncommon to see these in UK cultivation When To Sow February, March Flowering Months October, November Ginger is a perennial herbaceous plant – Zingiber officinale. It is generally grown for its underground stems, or rhizome, which are used fresh, or ground to make a common dried spice. Interestingly, this is not a plant that is found in the wild – it is only found in cultivation. The plant grows to an eventual height of between 30-100cm. It forms slender pseudo-stems that are sometimes harvested for an additional yield known as stem ginger. Inflorescences of yellow and purple flowers form on shoots that rise separately from the rhizome, though these are rarely seen when the plants are grown in temperate climates. Why Grow Ginger? Ginger is a very useful cooking ingredient and spice that can be very useful in a wide range of different recipes. It is a food-producing plant that can be grown at home even by those without a garden. You can grow it in a container even in the smallest of spaces. How To Grow Ginger The end of winter is a good time to plant ginger in temperate climates like ours here in the UK, but you can give this a try at any time of year when you are growing ginger inside. Choosing Rhizomes Ginger is grown from rhizomes (commonly referred to as root sections). These can be bought online or sometimes from local plant nurseries. You may also be able to root fresh ginger that you have bought from the shops. It is worth noting that ginger for sale in supermarkets may have been treated to prevent shoots from forming. If this is the case, soaking the root in water for 24 hours prior to planting may help (by washing away treatments used to slow growth). When choosing a rhizome, note that the larger it is, the more quickly the ginger will be produced. You are looking for a rhizome with small nodules similar to the chits that appear on potatoes. New growth will form from these small growth buds. Container Growing Choose a rich and fertile, moist but free-draining growing medium and a container that will allow that growing medium to dry out well between waterings while still retaining some moisture for your plant. Remember, when choosing a suitable container, that you are growing ginger mostly for what lies beneath the surface. So a tall, narrow pot that allows roots to delve deeper as the above-ground plants grow is the best option. Place your ginger rhizome into a pot or container with the green growth buds popping out just above the surface of the growing medium. Habitat & Growing Conditions It is important to remember, when choosing where to place your ginger plants in containers, how and where ginger grows in a more natural environment. Ginger thrives in moist to wet tropic environments. It grows best where daytime temperatures of between 18-28°C are maintained – though it can also cope in temperatures as low as 12-13°C and as high as 35°C. It will tend to go dormant at temperatures lower than those of the optimal range. Though ginger may prefer a partially shaded spot in hotter climates, when grown in the UK it will do best when given as much sun as possible. In order to encourage ginger grown indoors in our climate to root successfully, it can be helpful to provide gentle bottom heat (from a heated propagator, or heat mat, for example). However, ginger will often root and shoot successfully when simply placed in a warm position on a sunny windowsill. Ginger plants require relatively high humidity – and this can be one of the biggest challenges when growing ginger indoors in a temperate climate. Since central heating can really dry out the air, it can be beneficial to place ginger in a location where the humidity remains somewhat higher, such as on a kitchen windowsill close to the kitchen sink, or in a light, bright bathroom. Ginger Plant Care It is important to make sure that the growing medium around your ginger stays moist, but does not become waterlogged. You should water well but ensure that the medium and container are free-draining. When growing indoors, it may also be necessary to mist your plants to increase humidity levels. As your ginger plant shoots and begins to grow, it will be important to pot it up regularly. If it is doing well, by midsummer (having been planted in late winter) it should be in a rather large container (such as a 20-litre pot or grow bag, for example).
Learn more
How To Grow Sempervivum ‘Houseleeks’ With Tips From Nursery Grower Becky Scott
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Common Varieties How To Grow Sempervivum Ongoing Sempervivum Care Common Problems References As you might imagine, Sempervivum ‘Houseleek’ has nothing to do with leeks, the vegetables you sometimes use for cooking. That leek, scientific name Allium porrum, is from the genus of flowering plants that includes shallots, chives, leeks, garlic, onion, and all the other delicious aromatics that are familiar dinner ingredients. This ‘leek’ on the other hand, is a succulent – one of the colourful, trendy, and easy-to-care-for plants that you see in beautiful little displays like the one below. In this guide, we’ve worked with Becky Scott, Co-Owner of the plant nursery Sempervivums By Post. “Sempervivums are great outdoor plants and easy to look after,” says Becky. “You can grow them in pots, containers, or in the ground in a rockery. The choice of different colours and forms is tremendous.” If you’re looking for succulents to grow in your home, Sempervivum should be your first port of call. These stylish and undemanding plants bring flair to even the most mundane living spaces. You may also see this plant referred to as ‘Hens and Chickens’. “I love sempervivums and mainly use them as houseplants, but I do put them outside during the summer and they enjoy it,” says Tamsin Westhorpe, a professional Gardener. “They are great value plants and can be kept in tiny pots.” Overview Botanical Name Sempervivum Common Name(s) Houseleek, Hens and Chickens Plant Type Succulent Native Area Europe, North Africa, Middle East Hardiness Rating Mostly H5 – H7 Foliage Evergreen, fleshy leaved rosettes Flowers Some pink or pale yellow flowers When To Sow March, April, May Flowering Months July, August These plants are evergreen succulents whose name hints at their perennial nature – ‘Sempervivum’ means ‘always alive’ in Latin.1 Its interesting visual characteristics are immediately inviting, and whether you decide to grow Sempervivum outdoors or in a container, you’re guaranteed a good show. Common Varieties There are a number of naturally-occurring species and thousands of garden varieties in this family, covering a full rainbow of colour. There’s no space to introduce all the varieties here, so we’ve chosen a handful that have received the RHS’s Award of Garden Merit.2 S. guillaumes This variety of Sempervivum is a perfect demonstration of the striking form and colour palette you can expect from the plant. Although colours may vary, they’ll almost always be as vibrant and engaging as the Guillaumes. The plant is, by nature, mat-forming – that means it spreads out along the ground in dense mats, propagating through ‘offsets’ – nearly-grown plant babies that erupt into growth when they touch ground. Each spiky cluster is called a ‘rosette’, and the thick, sometimes waxy leaves hold the plant’s water supply; Guillaumes’ rosettes grow about 2cm in diameter. Like all Sempervivum, Guillaumes are naturally hardy thanks to their rugged North African, Middle Eastern, and Balkan heritage. S. tectorum The common houseleek, as this variety is known, has tons of nicknames including ‘Homewort’, ‘Imbroge’, ‘Poor Jan’s Leaf’, ‘Welcome-Home-Husband-However-Drunk-You-Be’ and more. None of the names give much of a clue about the plant, though. And none describe its green fading gracefully into deep red, or the attractive clusters of lightly-spiked leaves – nor the complex colour palette that the plant provides year-round. This is a great little Sempervivum that will make a great impression on any gardener. It’s just as unfussy as other varieties, but grows slightly larger in size – up to about 10cm. S. arachnoideum The boffins amongst you may recognise the ‘arachno’ in this variety’s name as being indicative of spiders. Don’t worry, though: It’s not named for a tendency to attract these eight-legged critters into your house. Rather, this houseleek variety is named after its striking cobwebbish aesthetic. The stringy white hairs at the tip of each head form a web around the spiky leaves, making an unusual and eye-catching visual contribution to any plant container. Individual rosettes grow to about 3cm across, and like all Sempervivums, this variety is mat-forming. Expect to see dashes of red year-round, and a bit of pink. How To Grow Sempervivum This variety of plant likes full sun, and well-drained soil. It’s relatively easy to care for in the UK because of its origins in demanding environments. With Sempervivum, the one thing you want to look out for is overly wet winters. “If you don’t provide sempervivums with a mix of soil and grit, to provide good drainage, the roots can rot in the winter wet,” explains Becky. S. charadzeae Although this plant can handle a lot, it’ll need a hand being sheltered from the icy blasts we’re prone to get later in the year. You can either cover the plant or bring it inside for a winter container holiday. Growing From Seed You can grow Sempervivum from seed. To do so, plant them in pots at least 5cm in diameter, push the seed gently below the surface, then leave them to germinate somewhere well-lit and at least 21°C for up to 5 weeks. If all goes well, you’ll see some germination. In this case, just leave the plant to grow for a while, then move onto the next section. If all doesn’t go well, which sadly is more likely with Sempervivum from seed, whack the pots in the fridge for a couple of weeks, then take them out and put them back in the well-lit warm spot – hopefully this time around you’ll see germination. Due to how fiddly and unpredictable this process can be, a lot of people prefer to grow Sempervivum from offsets. This is essentially cloning the parent plant, and is a much more reliable way to grow houseleek. “Our advice is don’t grow sempervivums from seed,” says Becky. “Named varieties are much, much better. They’ve been professionally selected from huge batches of plants grown from seed, usually with specifically chosen parents to give the best chance possible of producing something different.” “If you’re lucky, one in a thousand plants you grow from seed might be good enough – with the rest below standard.” Planting Sempervivum This plant likes a well-drained soil, as we’ve said. Sandy or loamy is best. “We suggest a mix of John Innes and horticultural grit,” recommends Becky. It’s not a fussy plant, and will grow well in solitary pots, shared containers, flowerbeds, and even gravelly rock gardens. “It’s best to grow sempervivums on their own. Select the types you like the look of and mix them up. “Don’t plant them with other outdoor succulents, such as sedums, because the latter will spread too fast and take over.” Planting Sempervivums is as simple as filling a container with the right type of soil, placing the plant in the soil, then ensuring the roots are covered. “Sempervivums spread by offsets, but once a rosette flowers, it will die, which can leave gaps in the planting,” shares Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly. “Just replant some of the offsets to fill the gaps left.” You’ll want to compact the earth as well to give the plant a secure footing. Ongoing Sempervivum Care Light Let there be light! Sempervivums love the sunlight, and will do better the more they’re exposed to it. If you’re planting Sempervivums in your garden, give them pride of place in the brightest spot. They’ll catch the eye of any visitors, and lend a tremendous visual element to your garden’s aesthetic. Watering This plant doesn’t typically need much water. For the most part, occasional rain should cover your Sempervivum watering needs, but if you’re going through a drought, a light sprinkle every once in a while won’t go amiss. Check the soil moisture with your finger before watering – a good couple of inches of soil should be mostly dry before you need to add more water. Common Problems There are a few pests that enjoy dining out on Sempervivum. Sempervivum Leaf Miner This hoverfly larva literally mines the leaves of a Sempervivum plant, to get at the good stuff inside. You’ll see limp, discoloured leaves, and if you examine more closely, you’ll find small maggots. To control leaf miner larvae, just pick off and dispose of them when you find them. Slugs & Snails Sadly your Sempervivum will find no reprieve from these common garden pests. Slugs and snails will treat themselves to a little nibble here and a little nibble there, eventually causing massive damage if left unchecked. To control against slugs and snails, you can make a border of sharded glass, use poisons, or simply remove them manually. References 1. Sempervivum definition and meaning | Collins English Dictionary. (2023). In Collins Dictionaries. Retrieved March 23, 2023, from https://www.collinsdictionary.com/dictionary/english/sempervivum 2. Ornamental AGM Plants. (2021b, July). Royal Horticultural Society. Retrieved March 23, 2023, from https://www.rhs.org.uk/plants/pdfs/agm-lists/agm-ornamentals.pdf
Learn more
What Are Air Plants? Here Are Some Common Tillandsia Types And Growing Tips
IN THIS GUIDE What Are Air Plants? The Life Cycle Of Air Plants Air Plant Varieties Where To Grow Air Plants Caring For Air Plants Troubleshooting Common Problems Growing Air Plants At Home References Air plants seemingly survive on air alone – but do in fact require more than just air to keep them alive. You might imagine when you see these unusual plants hanging in someone’s home, or mounted on a wall, that they are miracles of nature. But contrary to what some people seem to believe – air plants don’t really get all they need from the air. It is true that they do not need soil to grow, but there are other things they do require. In this article you’ll learn more about these fascinating plants and how to grow and care for them in your home. What Are Air Plants? First of all, let’s begin by talking about what air plants are. When we talk about air plants, we are talking about a large genus of epiphytic or lithophytic plants that grow on trees or other plants without doing them any harm, or on rocks.1 The genus Tillandsia contains around 650 species of evergreen, perennial plants in the Bromeliaceae family.2 Many of those species can be grown as air plants inside your home. They are called air plants but you should not make the mistake of thinking that the name means that they only need air to grow. The Life Cycle Of Air Plants Air plants have interesting and varied foliage. Flowering But what you may not know is that air plants will only flower once in their lives. The duration of the blooms can vary considerably depending on the species, and can last from a few days to a few months. The blooms can be in a wide range of colours, from pink to purple to red. Flowering might be the pinnacle of the plants’ life cycles – but it also marks the beginning of the end. Once the plant has flowered, it will eventually die. Reproduction The good news is that before it does so, around the time of flowering, it will reproduce. Depending on the species, an air plant will send out baby air plants, known as ‘pups’ just before, during or after flowering. These baby plants, or ‘pups’ are clones of the parent – they will grow eventually to the same size as their parent plant. The ‘pups’ are attached to the parent plant, and early in their growth, are receiving nutrients from it. You can separate the pups from the parent plant but only once these have reached around one-third to one-half the size of the parent. Depending on the species, there may be between 2 and 8 of these new plants, so over time, while your original air plants will die, you will be able to increase your air plant stock. Air Plant Varieties Now that you understand a little more about what air plants are and their lifecycle, you may be keen to get some for yourself. But which air plants could you choose? As mentioned above, there are around 650 species of Tillandsia to choose from. Here are just some of the most interesting options to consider: T. ionantha One of the easiest and most popular air plants to grow. T. maxima Relatively large air plants with big impact. T. cyanea Unlike other air plants this one, the ‘Pink Quill Plant’ can actually be grown in soil as well as without it. T. aeranthos bergeri Popular for its bright blooms in spring. T. bulbosa Known for its tentacle-like leaves curving out from the bulbous root. T. loliacea Teeny tiny air plants that never grow larger than around an inch and a half tall. T. fasciculata Commonly cultivated air plants with hundreds of varieties and hybrids. Where To Grow Air Plants Air plants are commonly grown indoors, but with many air plants it is theoretically also possible to grow them outdoors over the summer months before moving them indoors in the early autumn. Most growers, however, will grow them indoors. And it is increasingly popular to grow them as part of an interior design scheme, often alongside other succulents, cacti and other house plants. They are commonly grown in hanging arrangements, or under glass in terrarium type displays. The important things to think about when deciding where and how to grow/ display your air plants are: Temperature Light Water Ventilation You can find out more about these various different needs and how to make sure you meet them below: Caring For Air Plants Caring for air plants is relatively straightforward and easy. But you do need to make sure you get things right when it comes to the four categories mentioned above. Temperature Requirements The first thing to remember is that air plants require relatively warm temperatures. They need the temperatures to be above 12°C at all times, and will enjoy conditions around typical room temperature. They can tolerate higher temperatures too; as long as the relative humidity is high they can survive in temperatures up to around 30°C. Light Requirements Light levels are also very important. You need to consider where air plants are placed carefully to make sure that they are getting enough light, but are not going to be scalded by direct sunlight – especially during the hottest portions of the day. Tillandsia need bright but indirect and diffuse light to thrive. Light shade from direct sun is important, especially if your plants are growing under glass. Rooms with south or east-facing glazing can be fine, but perhaps with some netting over the window to provide some gentle shading. West-facing rooms may not be ideal because of the hot sun that can shine in later in the day. North-facing rooms may be too gloomy and dark – but an air plant may still be fine if positioned close to a north-facing window. How much light your air plants will tolerate is directly linked to how humid the conditions are. “My own experience of growing air plants has been through trial and error,” says Horticulturist Colin Skelly. “My sitting room is too dry, my bedroom too bright, but my bathroom seems to be just right – humid but with good airflow and east facing. “The bath and sink are also handy for misting and immersion (but still a distance from the water butt for rainwater!). “Perseverance, observation and routine are key but once you’ve nailed the location and watering frequency, the fun begins!” Generally, if your home is high in humidity, air plants will cope with more light. It is important to bear in mind how much light air plants are getting when working out water requirements. Water Requirements Soaking air plants By far the most common mistake when it comes to air plants is getting in wrong when it comes to providing water for your plants. The amount of water required will definitely vary depending on the temperatures and light levels, and the atmospheric humidity in your home. Between spring and autumn, it is best to immerse air plants in rainwater for 5-10 minutes around 2-3 times a week. It is better to use rainwater and not tap water, especially in hard water areas, since sodium bicarbonate can block the trichomes on the plants – which prevents them from absorbing moisture and nutrients. Avoid watering plants at all if the temperatures drop to 12°C as they can remain wet for too long. It is important to make sure that the plants are positioned so that they can easily shed excess water. And it is vital to make sure that they dry out fully between immersions, ideally remaining wet for no more than 1-3 hours after their soaking. In warm conditions, or when growing in closed terrariums or cloches, misting plants between immersions can help to prevent dehydration. But this does not alone provide enough water, so you will need to immerse the air plants as well. Make sure you mist around plants to raise humidity uniformly around the plants, rather than spraying the plants themselves and causing water to sit within them. Always immerse in water or mist early in the morning to make sure the plants dry fully before nightfall. Ventilation Requirements While many people grow air plants in enclosed spaces, it is important to note that air plants evolved in areas with good airflow, and will do best and remain healthiest when they are placed in a reasonably well-ventilated position. If you are growing air plants under glass containers, remember that this will create a micro-climate around your air plants. Less air circulation means a longer drying time, and typically higher humidity, so you will likely need to mist less frequently. Troubleshooting Common Problems Overwatering The most common problem for air plants is overwatering, or allowing water to remain for too long on your plants. Unfortunately, if you overwater, it will often be too late to save it. If you see the base of the plant turning brown or black and leaves are falling out from the centre, then it is likely that it has begun to rot and cannot be saved. Underwatering A plant may also become dehydrated – not only if it is watered infrequently but also if hard water is used over an extended period. If the plant starts shedding leaves, this may be a result of stress due to dehydration, but it can also be a sign of rot. Brown or bleached leaves are usually a sign that the plant has been exposed to too much direct sunlight and has overheated. Providing more shade and raising the humidity around your plants can prevent further scorch and may allow your air plants to recover. Growing Air Plants At Home Air plants can be very interesting and unusual plants to grow. They can add something to your home’s interior décor and allow you to learn more about these plants and their botanical features. You do have to be careful about temperatures, light levels, watering and ventilation. However, if you get these things right then you should find that air plants are relatively easy and hassle-free additions to your indoor garden. References 1. Common Epiphytes and Lithophytes of BELIZE. (2023, November). Branch Botanical Garden. Retrieved March 9, 2023, from https://fieldguides.fieldmuseum.org/sites/default/files/rapid-color-guides-pdfs/1179_belize_common_epiphytes_and_lithophytes.pdf 2. Crawford, B. C. (n.d.). Air Plants—A Trendy Plant with a Long Story! Rutgers University. Retrieved March 9, 2023, from https://njaes.rutgers.edu/plant-of-the-month/tillandsia.php
Learn more
You'll Want To Follow These Important Rules If Growing Senecio ‘Strings Of Pearls’
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Growing Indoors Hardiness Moving Outdoors Soil Requirements Sunlight & Aspect Ongoing Care Common Problems References Some plants just have a natural wow factor; something that sets them apart from the run-of-the-mill contenders. Maybe it’s the way they look, the beauty of their bloom, or even a particularly captivating scent. When it comes to Senecio ‘String of Pearls’, it’s definitely the way they look. Those cascading pearls – or beads, as some people call them – are unlike anything else in the plant world. They’ll catch the eye of even your least attentive visitors, and will make a great addition to your home as a result. Overview Botanical Name Senecio rowleyanus Common Name(s) String of Pearls / String of Beads Plant Type Succulent / Houseplant Native Area South-West Africa Hardiness Rating H1A Foliage Succulent leaves, trailing, like pearls or beads The string of pearls originally hails from southwest Africa but has become popular in the UK since its introduction.1 It’s interesting to note that the hanging beads in the picture above don’t hang in that way in the wild. Instead, they spread out across the ground into a thick mat. String of pearls only hangs downward when it’s kept in a pot high above the ground, and gravity can get involved. In a healthy plant, the vines can trail to over 80cm in length, which is truly impressive. Although it may not look like it, string of pearls is a succulent. The little beads store water for drier times: a survival mechanism arising from the plant’s hot African origins. Like other succulents, string of pearls is fleshy, thick-skinned, and attractive. The plant is a perennial vine and, although it looks nothing like it, is part of the daisy family. The scientific name is Senecio rowleyanus but, as usual, there’s a common name that rolls off the tongue much better – you’ll most likely see the plant called ‘String of Pearls’, but some people prefer ‘String of Beads‘. (At least there’s agreement that the stringy appearance is the most striking aspect of the plant!) Growing Indoors Be warned: this plant can be quite challenging. For novice gardeners, make sure you’re aware of the work involved before committing. As a succulent, it’s really important not to water your string of pearls too often. These plants have evolved to make do with minimal water, so saturating them too often will do more harm than good. The best measure of when to water is when the soil feels completely dry. String of pearls doesn’t need a large pot or container as it has a small root system. While most plants need space to breathe, too much space can work against string of pearls by making it harder for the soil to dry properly. Hardiness As a plant hailing from arid regions of Africa, string of pearls is relatively resilient. However, if you’re reading this, you’ll likely be growing yours in a region with a completely different climate. Unfortunately, this often results in UK gardeners struggling to keep their string of pearls healthy. It’s a finickity plant, and there are a good few indications that yours may not be thriving. Here’s what to look for: Shrivelling pearls Stems dying off Thin stems or pearls The next sections give guidance on how to best care for your string of pearls. Follow these tips, and you should have a healthy and happy plant. Moving Outdoors It’s not hard to see why a plant with African heritage won’t thrive in British winter. Our average temperatures often dip far below the string of pearls’ ideal, and in winter they drop even further, falling below the lowest temperatures the plant can handle, around 0°C. Even variegated options are available So, keeping your plant indoors for most of the year is the best bet. In the summer months, though, you have the option to treat the plant to a short spell in the sun. It’s not compulsory, but if you choose to do this, here’s how to do it: Put your string of pearls somewhere bright, but not in direct sunlight. Full sun exposure can burn the pearls. Try to find a spot where the plant gets sun in the morning or evening, but not during the heat of the day. Be vigilant with watering: don’t water too often, but don’t let the plant stay completely dry for too long. As you can see, some care tips are tricky because it depends on the exact conditions where you’re growing. If your string of pearls is likely to get rained on quite a lot, consider covering it or moving it indoors briefly to protect it. “I have found that shelves adjacent to windows seem to provide enough light whilst avoiding scorching,” shares Horticultural Consultant Colin Skelly. “They also provide the perfect perch from which S. rowleyanus can trail.” Soil Requirements This plant likes to dry out completely between waterings, so you need to choose a soil which is conducive to this outcome. Something with large particles to allow good drainage, so keep an eye out for soil with sand, silt, or clay. Other gardeners also recommend adding pumice or other ingredients to aerate the soil more. Whatever soil you use, take care not to water an indoor string of pearls until it’s pretty much completely dried out. Sunlight & Aspect You want to choose a place for your Senecio that’s not too close to windows that have the sun shining through for large chunks of the day. North- or east-facing windows are the best bet for your string of pearls, as they’ll give the plant light without risking burning or sun damage. In the winter, when daylight hours are shorter, and the sun is less intense, you can move your string of pearls closer to a south- or west-facing window. This will ensure it receives enough sunlight, and the reduced intensity means the risk of burn is lowered. Water less in the colder months, too. Keep an eye on the condition of the plant in all seasons and rejig the location if it’s not thriving. Ongoing Care As we’ve said, this plant can be finickity. This section contains a couple more care tips for your plant, designed to keep it in the best possible shape. Misting To keep your string of pearls in the best health, resist the urge to mist it. While some houseplants benefit from misting, this one has evolved to survive in dry and arid environments. Too much moisture can actually be counterproductive, leading to damage and rot. Pruning You can prune withering stems to improve the overall health of the plant. Prune back to a healthy section or, if the whole stem is dying, remove it completely. Common Problems This plant is susceptible to fewer pests than some other houseplants, which is a relief. Here are the main ones you need to look out for: Mealybugs These sap-feeding insects love nothing more than slurping the sap right out of a plant’s leaves. Over time this innocent feeding can cause untold damage to a plant, so it’s essential to be vigilant and deal with any infestations promptly. You’re looking for fluffy white wax or black sooty mould, as well as visible signs of an unhealthy plant like wilting and dying. You can prune infected sections to see if this controls the mealybugs, but if not you may need to turn to stronger tactics. Ladybirds will eat mealybugs, and various pesticides are available if you’d rather not introduce swarms of ladybirds into your home. Aphids Aphids also suck sap, and we have more than 500 species here in the UK. Yikes!2 Aphids are visible with the naked eye, and they also leave behind a black sooty mould. As with mealybugs, a bad infestation will make itself apparent through visible plant damage, so it’s a case of remaining vigilant. You can squash aphids with your fingers if you find them, but if you’re looking for a more sustainable (and less icky) solution, introducing predators or using pesticides are your best bets. References 1. Senecio rowleyanus. (n.d.). Missouri Botanical Garden. Retrieved March 23, 2023, from https://www.missouribotanicalgarden.org/PlantFinder/PlantFinderDetails.aspx?taxonid=277546 2. Aphids | What is an Aphid & What do they Look Like. (n.d.). The RSPB. Retrieved March 23, 2023, from https://www.rspb.org.uk/birds-and-wildlife/wildlife-guides/other-garden-wildlife/insects-and-other-invertebrates/beetles-and-bugs/aphid/
Learn more
