Growing
Planting And Growing Yucca: These Architectural Plants Work Well In Xeriscaping Schemes
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Why Grow Yucca? Where To Grow Yucca Planting Yucca Yucca Plant Care Hardy Yucca (Growing Outdoors) Tender Yucca (Growing As Houseplants) Yuccas are interesting, architectural plants which are grown as houseplants or outdoors in UK gardens. There are a number of different yucca types that can be interesting plant choices for UK gardeners. Tender yuccas can be grown as houseplants, in greenhouses or conservatories – while there are also hardier yuccas which can be grown outdoors in summer; some even year-round outdoors in the right locations. Overview Botanical Name Yucca (various sub-species) Common Name(s) Adam’s Needle and Thread, Spanish Dagger Plant Type Shrub / Tree / Perennial / Houseplant Native Area Americas & Caribbean Hardiness Rating Varies – some tender, some hardy Foliage Evergreen, spiky leaves Flowers Some have cream-white flowers When To Plant (Outdoors) April, May, June Flowering Months July, August There are around 40-50 species within this genus, which are notable for their tough, evergreen, sword-like foliage and tall flower panicles of bell-shaped blooms. Yuccas are incredibly adaptable as a genus, and species have evolved to cope with a wide range of climates and ecological conditions. Why Grow Yucca? Yucca is a popular plant for ornamental use in gardens (or as houseplants) because it has such a strong architectural form. Hardier types can add a dramatic accent to a suitable garden, while houseplants can be a great addition to interior décor. When in flower, yucca can be attractive to pollinators in a garden. And in warmer, milder regions, some varieties form fruits which are popular with garden birds. Where To Grow Yucca Hardier yucca (including Yucca gloriosa) are H5 hardy and can be grown in full sun in a south or east-facing spot, in well-drained chalk, loam or sandy soil. Yucca aloifolia and Zamioculcas The plants can grow in locations which are sheltered or exposed, but will appreciate being placed in as hot and sunny a spot as possible. Tender yucca, though they can be placed outside in a warm and sunny spot in summer, are usually grown as houseplants, or in a cool conservatory. Outdoors, yucca can work well in architectural planting alongside other spiky and architectural plants, to give a warm, sunny garden in the UK an exotic feel. Yucca also work well as climate-change-conscious planting in arid conditions, in dry climate planting known as xeriscaping schemes for more (or increasingly) drought-prone areas. Planting Yucca When choosing a yucca to plant, one of your first and most important decisions will be whether you would like to opt for a tender or a hardy yucca. You will need to decide whether you will grow outdoors in a suitable spot, or will be growing under cover in a container. If you are planting outdoors, make sure that you choose a spot with as much sun as possible, and where necessary, amend the soil to improve drainage before you place your new plant. Dig your planting hole big enough to accommodate the root system, with stones, gravel or grit for drainage at the base. Make sure the plant is rested at the same level in the soil that it was in its pot and that water can drain away freely. If you are growing in a container, make sure that this is of sufficient size to accommodate the plant you have purchased. And make sure the container allows water to drain freely from the base. Fill your container with John Innes No. 2 compost (or equivalent) with 20-30% added grit by volume to improve drainage. Hardy yuccas outdoors should usually be planted between May and September. Yuccas to be grown as houseplants can be planted up into new containers at any time of year. Yucca Plant Care Hardy Yucca (Growing Outdoors) Hardy yucca grown outdoors can be moderately low-maintenance plants, which, when placed in the right spot, will require little ongoing care. Water freely during dry periods in summer, but curtail watering in autumn and cease over the winter months. While you may feed with an organic liquid plant feed over the summer months, this is not usually required when yucca are grown in moderately fertile soil. Mulching around perennial plants in your garden each spring with organic matter can help retain moisture in a dry and sunny spot, and maintain fertility over time. Pruning is not usually required on most yucca. If they have multiple rosettes and do become too large or leggy in an area, you can prune rosettes with a sharp saw after flowering, before the end of August. However, to keep things looking neat you may also need to remove damaged leaves and spent flower spikes from your yucca in the spring. This is also true for young or tender yucca grown in containers/indoors. “Large Yuccas, such as Yucca gloriosa, can become multi-stemmed, and this gives the option to take cuttings,” shares Peter Lickorish, a Horticultural Consultant. “In mid-summer, after flowering, a rosette can be sawn cleanly from the trunk and the leaves stripped back to stalks for all but a few smaller leaves. “There should be some woody base growth and some of the leaf-clad growth on the cutting. Trim the top and tail of the cutting so it is no more than 18cm tall and place it to half its depth in a pot of compost. “You can even slice it in half lengthways if it is top-heavy.” Tender Yucca (Growing As Houseplants) Tender yucca are suitable for indoors cultivation, though pots may also be placed outdoors during the summer months. Water yucca freely over the summer months, remembering that plants grown in containers will typically require more water and dry out more easily than those grown in the ground. However, from the end of September, you should water yucca only sparingly. Water well, but only when the top 5cm of the potting mix has dried out. It is also a good idea to feed container-grown yucca with a balanced, organic liquid plant feed once a fortnight over the growing season, from April to September when growing in containers. If you have placed a container-grown yucca outside over the summer, make sure you move it indoors before temperatures fall below around 7-10°C at night. Move them indoors or into a cool conservatory where the minimum temperatures can be maintained.
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How To Grow Spanish Moss - This Ornamental Houseplant Needs Bright, Indirect Light
IN THIS GUIDE Overview How To Grow Spanish Moss Spanish Moss Plant Care References Spanish moss is an interesting houseplant which can also be placed outdoors in summer in the UK. The plants hang down, with wiry stems which can reach a length of several metres. They have attractive silvery-grey leaves, and can bear yellow-green or pale blue flowers in the late spring or in the autumn. Overview Botanical Name Tillandsia usneoides Common Name(s) Spanish Moss, Old Man’s Beard Plant Type Houseplant Native Area Tropical America Hardiness Rating H1C Foliage Evergreen Flowers Small, colours of yellow-green or pale blue Flowering Months June, September Spanish moss, also commonly known as Old Man’s Beard, is a tropical evergreen epiphytic perennial native to tropical America.1 Its latin name is Tillandsia usneoides. The name ‘Spanish Moss’ is a misnomer as this plant is neither Spanish nor a moss. It is a bromeliad, and the name has nothing to do with where it comes from.2 In the tropics and subtropics, Spanish moss grows on large trees, hanging down dramatically from their branches, growing, often prolifically, in full sun to partial shade. The plant is not parasitic and its presence does not usually harm the trees on which it grows – the plant takes in water and nutrients through its own leaves from the air and rainfall. The only time when it can cause damage to a tree is when it grows so prolifically that it becomes thick enough to exclude sunlight from the tree’s leaves – this can reduce vigour and lower the tree’s rate of growth. While, in the UK, Spanish moss is generally only grown as an ornamental houseplant, but in areas where it grows in nature it has a range of uses. It is commonly used in arts and crafts, as bedding or fertiliser for flower gardens, for insulation of stuffing and for making evaporative cooler pads. How To Grow Spanish Moss In the UK, Spanish moss is grown as a houseplant, though it can be placed outside in the summer months. It is H1C hardy in its RHS hardiness rating – meaning it must be grown indoors outside of summer months. It will require a light, bright location in indirect light to grow, and will thrive in an area with moderate to high humidity and somewhere with good air circulation. Temperatures between 10-21°C are optimal. Since Spanish moss likes relatively humid conditions, growing it in a light, bright bathroom or kitchen can be ideal – but Spanish moss can also thrive in other rooms of your home, as long as you make sure that they get the humidity and moisture they need. Spanish moss can look good when grown in combination with other air plants to create interesting and imaginative displays. Planting Spanish moss is not usually grown from seed, because it is very temperamental and very slow-growing during the early stages of growth. Months after planting, it will typically still be only 1cm or so in height, so most people who wish to grow this plant as a houseplant in the UK will purchase a fully-grown plant. Where To Grow Remember, these are epiphytic plants – they grow naturally on the branches of living trees, and not in soil. They take in nutrients through scales on their leaves from water and the air. This is a common example of the type of houseplants that are commonly referred to as ‘air plants’. Spanish moss plants can be purchased and placed on a piece of wood or other support structure. Typically, oak and cypress branches are said to be good choices as a substrate for cultivation. Remember, when deciding where to place Spanish moss, that the plants need to hang down from whatever they are resting on. The long stems need to be able to dangle unimpeded and sway with the breeze – they will not thrive if their stems are caught up in a bunch. Spanish Moss Plant Care Spanish moss is an easy air plant for beginners, and can be a wonderful, relatively low-maintenance choice for novice houseplant owners. The biggest part of the puzzle is growing it in the right place, and providing the right conditions. Remember, the fundamentals which Spanish moss needs include: A light, bright spot, but not one in direct light. Moderate to high humidity. Temperatures that consistently remain between 10-21°C. “I think the best place to grow Spanish moss in the home is a light shower room,” shares Master Horticulturist Dan Ori. “If you have a wet room that gets plenty of light and doesn’t get too cold then you might just have optimal conditions. You don’t need to remodel your home to grow this plant as it will grow in most warm light rooms if you mist it regularly.” Watering Air plants like Spanish moss are not watered in the same way as soil-growing plants. They must rather be misted regularly; it is also a good idea to give Spanish moss a soak periodically. Submerge the plant in water for an hour or so (so it can absorb the water) then shake off excess water and return the plant to its usual growing position. Make sure the plant is not left waterlogged for too long, as it can be prone to rotting. Let it dry out between soaking – for both misting and soaking, it is best to use rainwater or distilled water if possible. Feeding Opinions differ as to whether it is necessary to provide a feed for Spanish moss. Some choose to add a specialist liquid feed for air plants to the water solution when misting. Propagation Propagation of Spanish moss is easy – separate groups of strands and each one will keep growing and eventually (though rather slowly) create a dense new plant. Spanish moss is an interesting epiphytic air plant to consider growing in your home. If you are looking for an interesting ornamental houseplant, this could be a good option for your consideration. While Spanish moss will always look most impressive in its natural state, hanging in profusion from large mature trees, it can also be an interesting talking point in your home. References 1. Sustainability-Spanish Moss. (n.d.). UF/IFAS. Retrieved March 27, 2023, from https://sfyl.ifas.ufl.edu/natural-resources/sustainability-spanish-moss/ 2. Tillandsia usneoides Spanish Moss. (2013, November 22). Tropical Biodiversity. Retrieved March 27, 2023, from https://blogs.reading.ac.uk/tropical-biodiversity/2013/11/tillandsia-usneoides-spanish-moss/
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How To Grow Streptocarpus 'Cape Primrose' Houseplant - 'It Flowers Almost All Year Round'
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Habitat & Growing Conditions Planting Plant Care Propagation Common Problems References Streptocarpuses or ‘Cape Primroses’ are the dream houseplants. Compact and easy care, these tender evergreens are made to order for climatic conditions found in homes in European regions. Their foliage comprises attractive rosettes of rich green leaves snd they produce masses of small flowers for six months to a year! Not only are their colours wonderfully varied, many are effectively bi-coloured. “I would always recommend Streptocarpus because it flowers almost all year round, providing an extra dimension of joy in the home,” shares Garden Blogger Michael Perry. Overview Botanical Name Streptocarpus Common Name(s) Cape Primrose Plant Type Houseplant Native Area Africa Hardiness Rating H1C Foliage Evergreen Flowers Many colours – often white/violet When To Sow (Indoors) Year-round Flowering Months March, April, May, June, July, August, September, October Cape Primrose is a tender – make that ‘very tender’ – evergreen. Though this plant is intolerant of cold and also succumbs to its fair share of pests, it has a singular strength: this delightful wildflower is a regular homebody! Cape Primroses are nature-made houseplants for European and American climates, and what’s more, they are flowering houseplants that produce eye-popping little blooms for from six months to nearly the whole year. ‘Harlequin Delft’ Their flowers are soft and soothing, and also dazzling and intense. “I really love the Gesneriad family which includes things like Primulinas, Streptocarpus and Aeschynanthus,” shares Jane Perrone, a Houseplant Expert. “If I was going to choose a favourite plant family, it would be that one.” As, Jane says, the Streptocarpus genus falls in the Gesneriad family comprising numerous genera that are relatively little-known but include many types of plants, the vast majority of which bear unusual and attractive flowers. Streptocarpus includes upwards of 150 species that are native (only) to the African continent from Guinea and Sierra Leone on the west coast across to Sudan down to South Africa, plus Madagascar.1 The names Streptocarpus and Cape Primrose are often used synonymously, though not by botanists. ‘Lola’ Cape Primroses are, as expressed earlier, nature-made houseplants for European and American climates (excluding the northern regions of the countries) because the climatic conditions in the average home are quite similar to those of their native habitats. With only some effort conditions inside the house can even be made to mimic those native-region climates. Another positive attribute is that they are compact plants that are ideal for sunny windowsills. Streptocarpus houseplants can transform any room, bringing a little bit of garden into the home. Habitat & Growing Conditions In their native habitats, Streptocarpus species often grow at the edge of and in forests, and also under the forest canopy where they thrive in shade in humid conditions. Other species also grow amidst rocks and on rocky overhangs and outcrops, but even on such ground they are usually found in the shelter and shade of trees and woods. Cape Primrose varieties will flourish when they get warm days and cool nights yet these plants are very sensitive to temperature extremes and cannot tolerate temperatures either around even 5°C or nearing 26°C. At a hardiness rating of H1C they are frost tender yet cannot be kept outdoors in even part sun in the summer as they are also ‘sun tender’!2 Normal conditions in most homes in a spot where they can get indirect light or only early morning direct sunlight suits these plants just about perfectly. They are more amenable to a somewhat humid environment than to a dry one. Planting It is very difficult to plant Streps outdoors because in the small band of land along the south-western and southern coast of England where the winter temperatures won’t kill these plants, the summer sun and heat will. If you are located in these very mild regions and you want to try to grow these plants outdoors, what you can do is to site them in near-full shade, especially in summer when they should get no more than dappled or filtered morning sun. Even out of summer they should not get full sun. In general, if you would like to have Cape Primrose sitting outdoors then simply grow them in containers that you can put outdoors according to your region’s climate and the season, and bring them indoors as and when necessary. The best plan is to grow these pretty little flowering varieties as houseplants following the guidance in the following section. That said, they are ideally suited to windowsills except south-facing ones that get direct sun in the warmer months. Plant Care Soil Requirements To grow Cape Primrose varieties as houseplants use a soil consisting of potting mix and garden compost with gravel or perlite or both mixed in to facilitate drainage. These plants require excellent drainage so also make sure that the container or pot has drainage holes. Soil pH from moderately acidic to slightly alkaline will do though optimally it should be from slightly acidic to neutral – pH 6.1 to 7.3. Temperature & Aspect These temperature-sensitive plants will do best at daytime temperatures hovering around 21°C and nighttime ones of around 15°C. Plants should get several hours of indirect daylight – they may get direct early morning sun out of summer. A north- or east-facing windowsill would be a very good location. They can be put on a south-facing windowsill during winter. You can filter sunlight by shielding Streps with a thin or gauzy curtain. Growing From Seed Cape Primroses can be grown from seed or propagated from leaf cuttings. They are easy to find as potted plants or bare-root plugs. Seeds are very small – sow them in spring or summer by simply scattering them on top of the soil, either in a seed tray or pot. They need light to germinate so do not cover them with soil. Instead, consider covering the tray or pot with clear plastic cling film. This will lock in moisture that is helpful for germination and early growth – water well. The tray or pot should be kept in indirect but bright daylight and in a temperature range of 19-23°C. Continue to water such that the soil stays moist. Seeds should germinate within a fortnight. Slow-growing initially, plants grown from seed will start to flower inside five months. After seedlings have two true leaves they can be potted into individual pots, which should be of a small size. At this time reduce the amount of watering. Double Form Flowers Watering Water regularly but in moderation to avoid root rot. You may water just when the soil dries out – this precaution is especially necessary during the winter months. As temperature-sensitive as these plants are, one needs to be careful about the water temperature as well. During winter do not water plants directly after filling a watering can from the tap as the water will be quite cold – fill water in the can or in some container a day in advance so that the plants can be watered with water at room temperature. This precaution is critical if you live in one of the colder regions of the country. Similarly, if you are experiencing hot weather, be sure that the water you collect from the tap is not even lukewarm. Feeding Although Cape Primroses greatly benefit from regular feeding, do not feed a young plant as it does not have a well-developed root system. Wait until plants are six months or more before you feed for the first time. In spring and summer, you may feed the plants about every three weeks with a houseplant liquid fertiliser. ‘Hope’ It should be diluted to double the specified strength (that is, at a greater dilution). You may continue feeding at a greater dilution and reduced frequency through autumn and winter. Finally, as Cape Primroses mature, they grow horizontally forming new clumps. Any time during spring you can divide an overgrown plant by simply separating clumps (vertically), and re-potting them. Propagation Propagating Streps from leaves is, well, fun and easy. Actually, this particular ‘feature’ offers an interesting and enjoyable way to introduce children to gardening. Cut off a young and healthy leaf that has attained its full size just at the petiole. Then cut it crosswise into four sections or lengthwise on each side of the midrib into two. ‘Texas Hot Chili’ Insert the cuttings with the cut side down to about 2 centimetres into the type of soil described above. Water well, and – as for seeds – cover the tray or pot with clear plastic film. The cuttings should be kept in the same temperature range as stated above as you continue watering such that the soil stays moist. In four to five weeks small new plants or plantlets will form from the cut ends of the cuttings. There will be several to many such plantlets – after they develop two sets of leaves they will need to be divided and potted on. “Growing Streptocarpus from leaf sections is a great propagation method to try if you’re a beginner or for children,” shares Colin Skelly, a Master Horticulturist. “They normally take easily and the plantlets form fairly quickly, providing encouragement to try other plants and methods.” Common Problems Streps are sensitive plants and may suffer from foliage problems, in particular leaf rot and leaf scorch. Leaves may start to rot from the lower ends because of excessive watering, wrong type of soil, poor drainage, or any combination of these factors. If you encounter leaf rot, remove rotting leaves from the petiole and correct whatever is wrong. Leaves may get scorched and browned from too much direct sunlight, in which case simply change the position of the plant. Though some varieties are a little more robust than others, all varieties can succumb to thrips, mealybugs, vine weevil, glasshouse leafhoppers and tarsonemid mite. All these pests can be controlled but the best course of action is to regularly carefully inspect each plant, particularly during spring and summer, so that any infestation can be spotted early and dealt with before it spreads and becomes hard to control. References 1. Streptocarpus (African Violet, Cape Primrose). (n.d.). North Carolina Extension Gardener Plant Toolbox. Retrieved March 24, 2023, from https://plants.ces.ncsu.edu/plants/streptocarpus/ 2. Streptocarpus glandulosissimus. (n.d.). Royal Horticultural Society. Retrieved March 24, 2023, from https://www.rhs.org.uk/plants/17816/cape-primrose/details
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Grow Opuntia 'Prickly Pear Cactus' Year-Round With These Environmental Guidelines
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Common Varieties Why Grow Opuntia? How To Grow Prickly Pear Cactus Prickly Pear Cactus Care Troubleshooting Problems References A prickly pear cactus can be an interesting houseplant to grow, and can also be a drought-tolerant container plant for a patio over the summer months. There are many different prickly pear cacti which can be grown as houseplants or in a greenhouse under glass here in the UK. Overview Botanical Name Opuntia Common Name(s) Prickly Pear Cactus Plant Type Cacti / Houseplant Native Area Central & Northern Mexico Hardiness Rating H2 Foliage Evergreen Flowers Sometimes flowers depending on variety and conditions When To Sow (Indoors) Year-Round Prickly pear cacti are plants in the Opuntia genus. According to Kew records, there are 136 confirmed species within this genus, and a number of these can be grown as houseplants in the UK.1 Opuntia can come in a wide range of different forms and sizes – some grow no bigger than around 30cm in height, while others can eventually tower to over 5m. They usually have flattened pad-like stem sections with spines and barbs, and (when grown in optimal conditions) produce funnel-shaped flowers in various colours (typically pink, red or yellow) followed by fleshy, spiny and sometimes edible fruits. Common Varieties Let’s take a look at three of the Prickly Pear Cactus varieties most commonly grown as houseplants here in the UK: Polka Dot Cactus / Bunny Ears Botanical Name: Opuntia microdasys This is the most commonly grown Opuntia here in the British Isles. This small Opuntia grows to just 30-45cm tall, and has oval pads with tufts of small, golden spines. Small yellow flowers can also form though these appear only very rarely. It has gained the RHS Award of Garden Merit.2 Edible Prickly Pear Botanical Name: Opuntia ficus-indica This is the most common of the Opuntias cultivated for edible fruit. It is grown for these fruits, and also for the prickly pads which are eaten as a vegetable known as ‘nopales’ – which is commonly eaten as an ingredient in Mexican recipes.3 Unfortunately, the fruits are only produced when the growing conditions are absolutely perfect, and so you may not see them when growing the plant as a houseplant here in the UK. This vegetable is said to have a texture and flavour which resembles green beans. Many-Spined Prickly Pear Botanical Name: Opuntia polyacantha O. polyacantha is another option that can be grown indoors or in a greenhouse, and which can be placed outside over the summer months. This is a spreading cactus which can ultimately grow over 2m in width and to a height of around 40cm. The flattened pads are covered with areoles which have hairs and spines protruding from them. In summer the plant will often yield magenta flowers which bloom on the end of the flat pads. “When buying cacti, often you will see cacti for sale with flowers on,” shares Dan Ori, Horticultural Consultant. “Unfortunately, they are rarely real and have been glued on, so it is worth checking the blooms against pictures of what they should look like as the fake flowers normally look different.” Why Grow Opuntia? Opuntias make interesting houseplants and conversation pieces. They are relatively easy to care for indoors, and can often be placed outside over the summer months. Like other cacti, they do not have high water needs, and are relatively low maintenance. Grow an edible type and you might also be able to achieve edible yields from your interesting houseplants too. How To Grow Prickly Pear Cactus Prickly pear cactus will usually be grown as houseplants or greenhouse plants here in the UK. Though they are relatively easy to care for, providing the right conditions where they are growing is crucial for the best results. Temperature Requirements Prickly pear cacti must be grown in an environment in which temperatures do not fall below 10°C. Ideally, the plant should receive temperatures in summer of at least 18°C. Remember, these are desert plants, which enjoy warmth. While you can place these cacti outdoors in a sunny and sheltered spot in summer, you will certainly need to move them indoors or undercover for the winter months; be sure to make this move in early autumn. If growing indoors year-round, a prickly pear cactus should be moved to a cooler spot (10-13°C) in the winter to encourage flowering. You should keep your prickly pear cactus away from direct heat sources such as radiators or stoves, and also away from draughts and fans which cause temperature fluctuations. Light Requirements Prickly pear cacti should be grown in a bright spot that gets as much light as possible. However, you should shield it from strong, direct sunlight in the summer. A south-facing or west-facing windowsill can be ideal, and the plants should get 4-6 hours of direct sunshine in the summer months. A heated greenhouse with good, all-round light can also work well. Potting Up When potting up a prickly pear cactus, choose a container which is the same size as, or only very slightly bigger than, the rootball. Make sure that the pot allows for free-drainage and has a hole or holes at the base. It is a good idea to use a terracotta pot for cacti and succulents as these will not retain moisture as much as plastic pots. Growing Medium Like other desert cacti, it is important to use a very free-draining growing medium. You can use a multipurpose compost with added John Innes with added extra grit. Better yet, you can use a potting mix that has been specifically formulated for cacti and succulents. Top dress the container with a layer of gravel, pebbles or a decorative cover. Prickly Pear Cactus Care Watering While prickly pears are cacti and obviously, as desert plants, can cope with drought and dry conditions, do not make the mistake of thinking that they do not need to be watered at all. Though these plants can survive long periods without much water, by storing the water in their stems, they will grow better and are more likely to flower (and fruit) when they are provided with adequate water supplies. Between April and September, you should water moderately whenever the growing medium is dry. However, you should limit watering during the dormancy period, when the plant is not growing during autumn and winter. Watering just once a month or so should be sufficient during this time. It is very important to make sure that when you water, the water drains through freely. The cactus should never be allowed to sit with its roots in water – and make sure you do not leave water sitting below the base of the pot. Feeding For best results, you should feed your prickly pear cactus with a specialist cactus fertiliser once every two months from spring through to early autumn. But do not feed your plants over the autumn and winter months. Propagation Once you have perfected the care of your prickly pear cactus, it is relatively easy for you to propagate your existing plant and expand your houseplant collection. You can propagate Opuntia by seed, but by far the easiest way to propagate them is by taking cuttings. Take care when handling your plants as of course the spines and prickles can do quite a lot of damage to your hands if you do not. It is best to wear gloves and also to use tweezers or some tongs when taking cuttings. “I use kitchen tongs with silicone ends to handle all my cacti as they a strong enough to manipulate the plant but soft enough to reduce the chance of damage,” shares Dan. To take cuttings from a prickly pear cactus: Choose a healthy section of stem, at least 10cm long. Cut this off cleanly with a sharp, sterilised knife. Leave this stem section on a windowsill and leave it until the cut surface has healed over. Once the callus has formed, place the cutting upright, around 2cm deep in a 7cm or 9cm pot filled with cactus growing medium. Water well, then place the pot in a sunny, warm location, though ideally not in direct sunlight. Keep an eye on the cutting and water whenever the compost feels dry, and your new cactus plant should have rooted within around 4 weeks. Troubleshooting Problems Many of the issues you see with your prickly pear cactus as you care for it are likely to be related to the conditions in which you are growing it, or problems with watering. Shrivelled leaves – You have likely watered too little. Rotting – Overwatering is usually to blame. Drainage may also be insufficient. Splitting pads – Overwatering or insufficient drainage again. Reduce watering and improve drainage and the splits should heal over. Brown or white patches – This is sunburn – move the plant out of direct sunlight in the hottest part of the summer. You may also see scale insects or mealybugs, but you should be able to carefully wipe these away with water, or an organic insecticide if there is a larger infestation. Just take care around the plant as the small spines can be spiky. References 1. Opuntia. (n.d.). Kew Royal Botanic Gardens. Retrieved March 21, 2023, from https://powo.science.kew.org/taxon/urn:lsid:ipni.org:names:30002080-2#children 2. AGM Ornamental Plants. (2021, July). Royal Horticultural Society. Retrieved March 21, 2023, from https://www.rhs.org.uk/plants/pdfs/agm-lists/agm-ornamentals.pdf 3. MasterClass. (2022, July 18). How to Cook Nopal: Mexican Ensalada de Nopales Recipe. Retrieved March 21, 2023, from https://www.masterclass.com/articles/nopales-salad-recipe
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Azalea Japonica - How To Grow This Compact Shrub (Plus Some Interesting Varieties)
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Why Grow R. japonicum? Japanese Azalea Varieties Where To Grow Japanese Azalea Planting Plant Care Guidelines Watering Mulching Pruning References Rhododendron japonicum is a compact Azalea, in the Rhododendron family which can work well in beds or border, or containers with acidic conditions. Rhododendron japonicum, known as Japanese Azalea, is a flowering shrub – usually evergreen – with a relatively compact form, glossy deep green leaves and flowers which come in a wide range of colours. It is a type of evergreen Rhododendron (though some cultivars can be semi-evergreen and lose leaves in cold winters), within the Ericaceae plant family.1 Overview Botanical Name Rhododendron japonicum Common Name(s) Japanese Azalea Plant Type Shrub / Houseplant Native Area Japan Hardiness Rating Often H4 Foliage Lobed, evergreen leaves Flowers Various hues, commonly pink When To Sow March, April, May, June, September, October Flowering Months March, April When To Prune April, May These plants have smaller leaves than deciduous Rhododendrons. Azaleas have been cultivated for centuries and more than 10,000 vibrant cultivars have been created, which means that there are plenty of options to consider when choosing one of these plants for your garden.2 Azaleas are categorised under two sub-genera – Tsutsusi and Pentanthera. Japanese evergreen Azalea fall within the former sub-genus.3 Shimogamo Shrine in Kyoto City Azaleas are important in Japanese culture and Azalea festivals take place across the country each year, which are attended by many visitors. The plants are a common sight in Japanese (and Japanese-inspired) gardens around the world. R. japonicum is sometimes also used for bonsai, carefully and delicately trained – and sometimes used as container plants or even houseplants. Why Grow R. japonicum? Rhododendron japonicum is ideal for a low-maintenance garden. They are one of the most vibrant spring-flowering shrubs that can be grown in the UK, and provide their beautiful blooms for several weeks in April, May or June. Because of their spring flowering, they are also popular gifts for Mother’s Day and Easter. These are a popular range of shrubs for acid-soil gardens, since these are ericaceous plants that like a more acidic soil pH. They can help you make the most of a garden with acidic soil conditions. Even where there is not acidic soil, these small shrubs are pretty easy to grow in pots. Japanese Azalea Varieties There is a huge range of Japanese Azaleas to choose from. Some popular types to consider include: ‘Kurume’ Semi-dwarf Azalea hybrids which bloom prolifically. ‘Satsuki’ Compact Azaleas which bloom towards the end of spring. These Azaleas have dwarf tree shape, with beautiful gnarled trunks. They were originally hybrids of Rhododendron indicum and Rhododendron eriocarpum, and have been cultivated in Japan for centuries, but in the UK only since the beginning of the 20th Century.4 These are not particularly hardy, but can be grown outdoors in milder parts of the UK, or as container plants to take indoors in winter in cooler regions. Encore Azaleas Bloom from spring right through the summer months. These were developed by Robert C Lee in Louisiana.5 Gartrell & Robin Hill Hybrid Azaleas These are a group of larger flowered hybrids developed by Robert Derby Gartrell in the late 20th Century.6 Some interesting cultivars to consider include: ‘Hot Shot’ – variegated leaves and striking red flowers. ‘Silver Queen’ – variegated leaves and bright pink blooms. ‘Summer Sun’ – Satsuki variety, rich red flowers. ‘Robleza’ – Encore type, deep, intense red blooms. ‘Robles’ – Encore, purple flecked lilac flowers. R. x amoenum – Kurume variety, magenta-purple flowers, red autumn foliage. ‘Hino Crimson’ – RHS AGM, small, deep red flowers. ‘Mother’s Day’ – RHS AGM, bright red blooms. ‘Addy Wery’ – RHS AGM, deep, rich red flowering. ‘Iro Hayama’ – RHS AGM, white flowers with graduation to lavender or mauve. Though of course there are many, many more Japanese Azaleas to consider. Where To Grow Japanese Azalea Japanese Azalea is definitely a good houseplant to consider growing in a container inside your home. Many more compact cultivars are perfect for container growing, indoors, or outdoors with winter protection. However, many Japanese Azaleas can also be a great choice for a UK garden. Many cultivars are H4 hardy, but take note that there are many Azaleas which are not as hardy and which are only options for outdoors cultivation in very mild and protected southern gardens. Hardier cultivars will grow well in a fertile, rich, sandy or loamy soil which is moist and relatively moisture-retentive, without becoming waterlogged. They will thrive in a sheltered spot, in partial shade or full sun. Whether it is best to grow R. japonicum in full sun or partial shade will depend on your location, and the type and cultivar you have chosen to grow. Of course, the most important thing to remember is that, like other ericaceous plants, R. japonicum does require acidic soil. The optimal pH is between 5 and 6 for most Azaleas. Japanese Azaleas can work well in a planting scheme alongside other Azaleas, Rhododendrons, and Camellias. By selecting cultivars carefully you can enjoy blooms over a much longer period – some can even work well as hedges. With Japanese Acers and other Japanese plants which like acidic conditions, they can be perfect for a Japanese-inspired garden. Planting When planting R. japonicum, it is important to take care not to damage the roots. It is also important to plant the shrubs at the same level that they were at in their previous pot. Avoid planting them too deeply as they are intolerant of this. The top of the root ball should be above the soil – take care to ensure that this is not buried or the Azalea may fail to thrive or even die. If growing Japanese Azaleas in containers, make sure you choose a container that is of a sufficient size, and one which allows free drainage. Place crocks at the base to make sure water can pass through freely. Of course, you also need to make sure that you fill your container with ericaceous compost. Plant Care Guidelines ‘Konigstein’ A. japonicas are varied plants and some are much easier to care for and lower maintenance than others. Once established, hardy types in your garden can be more or less left to their own devices. Less hardy types grown in containers, or indoors, will require a little more care. Watering Once established, most Japanese Azaleas can be relatively drought-tolerant. However, it is very important to water well during establishment, and to make sure that the soil (or potting mix in containers) does not dry out during dry spells. When Azaleas are subjected to drought, they tend not to flower as well – since they are shallow-rooted, they do need the soil to be kept moist. “Rhododendron japonicum, when established, can tolerate periods of dry weather but can take some time to recover from drought,” shares Colin Skelly, Horticultural Consultant. “I focus on the planting position, such as avoiding areas that dry out in summer or providing dappled shade (but not dry shade). “Just as important is a thick layer of annual mulch (being careful not to mound against the stem) to hold moisture close to the shallow root system. “Also, I don’t clear away leaf litter as this helps to create a moisture-holding soil layer where the roots need it.” Remember that you will have to water container-grown plants more frequently than those grown in the ground. Mulching As Colin highlights above, it is a very good idea to mulch well around your plants to protect the shallow roots of these shrubs and reduce moisture loss. Choose an ericaceous mulch such as pine bark or pine needles to do so. Mulching will also provide all the fertility Japanese Azaleas need. It is not usually necessary to provide any other fertiliser for these plants. In fact, fertilising too much can be counterproductive and these shrubs may not perform as well if you do so. Pruning Azaleas typically only need light pruning and Japanese Azaleas may not really need to be pruned at all. As mentioned above, however, some Azaleas are used as bonsai, and trained and trimmed into ornamental, decorative forms. If light pruning is required, this should typically be undertaken just after the end of the flowering period. Make sure you do not prune after buds for next year’s flowers begin to form, as this would mean fewer flowers the following year. There is more to discover about Japanese Azaleas, but this guide should help you with the basics of choosing and growing these beautiful flowering plants. References 1. Rhododendron – Azalea or Rhododendron. (n.d.). Plant Facts. Retrieved March 10, 2023, from https://plantfacts.osu.edu/pdf/0247-943xx.pdf 2. Azalea Society of America. (2018, August 14). Learn about azaleas. Retrieved March 10, 2023, from https://www.azaleas.org/about-azaleas/ 3. Rhododendron and Azalea Classification Information. (n.d.). The American Rhododendron Society. Retrieved March 10, 2023, from https://www.rhododendron.org/classification.htm 4. Kennedy, C. (2022, June 28). Satsuki Evergreen Azaleas Extend the Blooming Season of the Genus Rhododendron. Seattle Japanese Garden. Retrieved March 10, 2023, from https://www.seattlejapanesegarden.org/blog/2022/6/28/with-their-elegant-late-may-and-june-flowers-satsuki-evergreen-azaleas-extend-the-blooming-season-of-the-genus-rhododendron 5. Borden, J. (2021, September 1). Meet the Man Behind the South’s Iconic Encore Azalea. Southern Living. Retrieved March 10, 2023, from https://www.southernliving.com/garden/flowers/encore-azalea-buddy-lee 6. A Guide to the Notebooks and Papers of Robert Gartrell. (n.d.). University of Virginia Library. Retrieved March 10, 2023, from https://ead.lib.virginia.edu/vivaxtf/view?docId=uva-sc/viu04020.xml
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Cineraria: Clearing Up Some Confusion When Growing Either Plant Type
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Dusty Miller Pericallis x hybrida Cineraria Types How To Grow Cineraria Growing From Seed Planting Out Cineraria Plant Care Common Problems Cineraria are popular florists’ plants, but there is some confusion over the name. Cineraria is a term often applied broadly to plants in the Senecio genus or other related genera. It is also a name used to refer to Pericallis x hybrida, sometimes called ‘Florist’s cineraria’, a group of hybrids bred from Canary island species now technically referred to as Pericallis. Strictly speaking, the genus Cineraria is now restricted to a smaller group of South African plant species. Many of the plants commonly referred to as Cineraria are not actually recognised by botanists as Cineraria anymore. Pericallis x hybrida “It can be quite tricky to keep up with the changes to botanical names,” explains Horticultural Consultant Colin Skelly. “I use the Royal Horticultural Society and Kew websites as reputable resources for the correct names. “Often the older names will persist amongst gardeners and nurseries, as with Cineraria, but it is good to try and keep up as classification becomes more accurate and is based on DNA rather than just the physical characteristics.” Nonetheless, there are two main types of plant referred to as Cineraria which are grown in UK gardens; these are the types that we will concentrate on in this article. The first type is Jacobaea maritima (dusty miller), and the second type is Pericallis cruenta x P. lanata, AKA P. x hybrida – these are greenhouse or annual bedding plant varieties commonly called simply ‘Cineraria’. Overview Botanical Name Jacobaea maritima / Pericallis x hybrida Common Name(s) Dusty Miller, Florist’s Cineraria Plant Type Annual / Houseplant Native Area Italy / or Hybridized garden forms Hardiness Rating H3-H4 Foliage Evergreen or deciduous Flowers Various When To Sow March, April, May Plant Out June, July Harvesting Months June, July, August In this article, we will introduce both Senecio cineraria and P. x hybrida, since both of these plants are commonly grown as pot plants or, less commonly, as border plants in the UK. Dusty Miller Jacobaea maritima, ‘dusty miller’ or ‘silver ragwort’, is a subshrub typically grown as an annual in UK gardens. Although correctly known as Jacobaea maritima, it is still widely referred to as as Senecio cineraria. It has striking, silver-white leaves that look like they have been dusted with frost, which means that they stand out well against green shades of foliage, and help to add interest to pots, planters, beds or borders. It is H4 hardy which means that it is hardy throughout much of the UK, and may well overwinter outdoors in a sunny, sheltered spot. Though usually grown for their foliage rather than their flowers, these plants sometimes also have yellow, daisy-like flowers in summer. Pericallis x hybrida P. x hybrida are evergreen perennials which are also often grown as annuals in the UK. They form low clumps of dark green foliage, and bear loose groups of bright coloured blooms over the summer months. They are often H3 hardy and may overwinter successfully in a greenhouse, or in the mildest parts of the UK. Their large daisy-like flowers can be very attractive in beds, borders or containers over the summer months, and come in many shades from blue, to purple, to pink, to red, to white – often with dark centres which can be in a different colour. Often, these flowering plants are grown as temporary annual houseplants indoors or under cover. Cineraria Types When it comes to Cineraria, which type you will choose to grow will largely depend on where you plan to grow them. Indoors, you will usually be looking at Pericallis ssp. In your garden, these may still be an option, but less tender Senecio will perhaps be easier to grow outdoors. If you are looking for a Silver Ragwort to grow, try ‘Silver Dust’ which has received the RHS Award of Garden Merit. ‘Silver Dust’ If you are looking at Florist’s cineraria, then the Senetti Series offers many of the most common choices. Some interesting named varieties are: ‘Jester Scarlet’ ‘Magic Salmon’ ‘Sunsenedibu’ ‘Sunsenere’ ‘Sunsenereba’ How To Grow Cineraria Jacobaea maritima will grow well in any well-drained soil in sunny position, in pots or in the ground. It works well for beds, planters or containers which face south or west, and can cope with drought and windy conditions, as well as a more sheltered spot. P. x hybrida cineraria does best in full sun or partial shade; its tolerance to shade is one of the reasons which is why it can work well as a houseplant for the summer, as well as being grown outdoors as a pot plant or summer bedding plant. ‘Senetti Magenta Bicolour’ It can thrive in any fertile, well-drained soil – though if you plan to overwinter your plants, they must be kept in a dry, cool, frost-free spot. Growing From Seed S. cineraria or Jacobaea maritima seeds should be sown in spring, between March and May at 19-24°C for optimal germination rates. You can also take semi-ripe cuttings of these plants in the mid-late summer, or purchase plants from your local garden centre or plant nursery if you prefer. Plant out in beds or containers in May or June. In milder areas, it may overwinter outside as mentioned, but you may prefer to grow it as an annual, or grow it in containers which can be moved indoors in autumn when frost threatens. P. x hybrida cineraria seeds are sometimes sown in December, but when grown indoors, the seeds can be sown any time throughout the year. The seeds are very small and are pressed into the surface of the potting mix or growing medium. They are best sown in a propagator, and provided with temperatures of 18-20°C. Shoots appear around two weeks after sowing, and seedlings are then potted up and should be kept at around 15°C for best results. These plants can also be propagated by means of semi-ripe cuttings in mid-late summer. Planting Out You can also, of course, take the easy option and purchase bedding plants. Whether you sow or propagate your own plants, or buy your Cineraria, again, you should plant them out in May or June. Treat them as annuals or overwinter them as above in a dry and frost-free place as mentioned above. However, it is worth noting that these Cineraria rarely bloom more than once, and so they do not make great perennials in most UK gardens and are best treated as annuals. Cineraria Plant Care J. maritima is a fairly easy plant to grow in containers or in your garden and it is an ornamental plant that we’d definitely recommend. In order to encourage the plants to put on plenty of new foliage growth, it is generally best to cut back any long shoots to suppress flowering – since the foliage is the main decorative feature you are after. Florist’s cineraria are beautiful flowering plants, no doubt, but they are short-lived and will take a lot more work. If bought as bedding plants, it is worth noting that this can be an expensive option – and not the most sustainable choice. These flowers can be finicky – requiring just the right light levels, amount of water, humidity etc. and only providing blooms in summer (or other seasons when grown indoors) for a relatively short length of time. Common Problems Cineraria can also be plagued by a range of pests and problems: Cineraria are beloved by aphids, thrips and whiteflies. Spider mites are also a common issue. Fungal issues such as mildews, root rot and common rust can also commonly occur. In your garden, be sure to maintain a balance in the garden ecosystem with as much biodiversity as possible. Use companion plants and attract beneficial predators to help you keep pest numbers down – for example, marigolds can work well as shown above. For home growers, there are better choices perhaps, than these fussy flowers, but many still love to grow them for their beautiful blooms.
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Mandevilla 'Rock Trumpet' Plants - Happiest Grown In A Conservatory Or Greenhouse
IN THIS GUIDE Overview How To Grow Mandevilla Mandevilla Plant Care Common Problems References Mandevilla were previously classified within the Dipladenia genus, but were separated and re-classified in 1933.1 Nevertheless, these plants are sometimes referred to as being one and the same. They are probably better known as ‘Chilean Jasmine’ or ‘Rock Trumpet’ and are named after Henry Mandeville, an English diplomat and botanist.2 Mandevilla are usually climbers with showy, sometimes scented, flowers opening in the summer. However, they originate from warmer climates – meaning they are tender and are happiest grown in a conservatory or greenhouse here in the United Kingdom. Overview Botanical Name Mandevilla Common Name(s) Dipladenia, Rock Trumpet, Chilean Jasmine Plant Type Climber / Houseplant Native Area Americas Hardiness Rating H2/H3 Foliage Semi-evergreen climber Flowers Large, showy flowers When To Sow (Indoors) April, May Flowering Months May, June, July, August, September When To Prune March Mandevillas are perennial climbers that originate from North, Central and South America.3 They are stunning ornamentals that can have red, yellow, pink or even white flowers that are often scented and can bloom for months on end during the summer. Flowers are produced on the current year’s new growth and it is important to provide the right warm and humid conditions for the new shoots to grow to produce blooms later in the year. Varieties that are commonly available here in the United Kingdom include: Mandevilla sanderi M. laxa AGM M. boliviensis AGM Mandevilla is a great climber, with an exotic feel and easily grown in a pot. It can be a great addition to a conservatory or even an outside terrace, but only during the warmer months. How To Grow Mandevilla Mandevillas are most commonly grown from small plants available from local plant nurseries or online. They need indoor protection during the colder months and prefer full sunshine, although will need shading from the hot midday sun. Mandevillas are tender plants and need to be kept over winter in temperatures above 10°C and during spring require a humid and warm environment with temperatures of 18°C at night and 21°C during the day. However during the summer months, they can be placed outdoors in a sheltered and sunny spot. Mandevilla can be grown from seed in spring, but will need the warmth of a propagator to help them to germinate, or grown from softwood cuttings taken in early summer. If taking cuttings, new growth must be selected and in order to take root will need the bottom heat of a propagator. Where To Grow Mandevilla prefer full sun and a sheltered spot to grow well and produce the wonderful blooms they are known for. They are most commonly grown in pots so they can easily be moved depending on the seasons. Due to their temperature requirements, they are often grown in a conservatory or heated greenhouse and only placed outside during the warmest months of the year. Supports Supports are required for the climbers to grow up. Bamboo canes forming a tripod are often provided in the pot when bought, but in time and depending on space a taller support will be required. Longer term, metal climbing supports such as obelisks are ideal as they will not rot over time and provide a strong frame for the plant to grow upon. Mandevilla Plant Care To plant Mandevilla fill a pot with a free-draining, soil-based compost such as John Innes No.2 and plant at the same depth as previously planted. The shoots will need tying-in to begin with and the tops can be pinched out to promote bushier growth if required. Watering During the growing season, Mandevilla will need watering and feeding often, they do not like to have wet roots so make sure there is adequate drainage. During the winter months, growth will slow and the plant will need less moisture so reduce watering and cease feeding until spring. Repotting Mandevilla are grown for their flowers, which are only produced on new growth. Thus it is important to care for the plants during spring when the plant begins growing again after winter. It is recommended that Mandevilla are re-potted each spring with fresh compost and a larger pot as required. Pruning Depending on the variety, Mandevilla can grow to 4.5M tall. However, M. sanderi will usually grow to no more than 1.5M and thus might reach a better size if pot-grown and moved around depending on the seasons. Mandevilla are classed as RHS pruning group 12 and require pruning in late winter or early spring before any new growth appears.4 To prune, cut back any side shoots to 3-4 buds from the main framework and cut back any vertical stems outgrowing the supports. “Don’t be tempted to prune after mid-March as you could delay or stop flowering for that year because blooms break from the current year’s growth,” says Master Horticulturist Dan Ori. “I find it convenient to prune and repot these plants at the same time each February.” Common Problems Pests Mealybugs are insects that feed on the sap of house and greenhouse plants, including Mandevilla. The telltale sign of mealybugs is a white fluffy residue left on the leaves and in the leaf joints. Aphids are also common with Mandevilla (I had recurring infestations when growing as a houseplant) and they are usually visible with the naked eye. Mealybugs or aphids do not mean the plant is destined for the compost pile, but can easily be dealt with if quick remedial action is taken. Firstly remove the affected plant from any others to avoid any spreading and contamination. Wipe away any sign of mealybugs or aphids from the plant using a wet sponge or baby wipe and remove any damaged leaves which may harbour eggs. Ladybirds like to eat mealybugs or aphids and their eggs and can be introduced during the summer months as a non-pesticidal approach. Pesticide control can include spraying the affected plant with plant oils, fatty acids and natural pyrethrum. I had particular success by removing aphids by hand, then spraying with neem, which seemed to make the surface of the plant a no-go zone for pests. Not Flowering Mandevilla needs the correct pruning regime, seasonal environment conditions and nutrients in order to flower. It is important not to prune the plant any later than spring as the new growth and subsequent blooms may be pruned off accidentally. Flowers are produced on new growth and thus it is important to make sure that the conditions are correct for the new shoots to appear. The correct temperature, soil kept moist (but not wet) and feeding the plant from spring onwards should help encourage the flowers to bloom. Leaves Falling Off Mandevilla are semi-evergreen and may drop some leaves during the winter months, this can be seasonal and nothing to worry about. However, if leaves are dropping during the summer then check you are not over or under-watering the plant and that there are no obvious pests, such as mealybugs on the plant. References 1. Palumbo, F., Draga, S., Scariolo, F., Gabelli, G., Batta Sacilotto, G., Gazzola, M., & Barcaccia, G. (2022, August 16). First genomic insights into the Mandevilla genus. Frontier. Retrieved March 21, 2023, from https://www.frontiersin.org/articles/10.3389/fpls.2022.983879/full 2. Mandevilla. (n.d.). Heemskerk Flowers. Retrieved March 21, 2023, from https://en.heemskerkflowers.com/mandevilla 3. Mandevilla. (n.d.-b). Kew Royal Botanic Gardens. Retrieved March 21, 2023, from https://powo.science.kew.org/taxon/urn:lsid:ipni.org:names:328998-2 4. Climbers and wall shrubs: pruning established plants. (n.d.). Royal Horticultural Society. Retrieved March 21, 2023, from https://www.rhs.org.uk/plants/types/climbers/established-pruning-guide
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Dragon Tree Houseplant Care - This Is How You Should Water, Repot And Prune Your Plant
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Why Grow Dracaena marginata? Dragon Tree Varieties Where To Grow Plant Care Propagation References Dracaena marginata, also known as dragon tree, is a particularly eye-catching houseplant to consider for your home. Dracaena marginata – ‘Dragon Tree’ – is an evergreen that commonly finds a home in offices and homes in temperate climes such as the UK. It is also named D. reflexa var. angustifolia in its native range – in Madagascar, and the Indian Ocean islands. Overview Botanical Name Dracaena marginata Common Name(s) Dragon Tree Plant Type Houseplant Native Area Madagascar Hardiness Rating H1B Foliage Evergreen Flowers Small flowers, rarely seen When To Propagate March, April, May, June, July, August, September When To Prune March It is a towering tree, which can grow over 3m in height, with trunks as wide as a man’s leg, or even wider. It is a tropical plant, which thrives in the intermittent heavy rains and droughts of its native range. When grown as a houseplant in temperate climates, it will not grow anywhere near as large. Typically, when grown in a container indoors, Dragon trees will have a height of around 2m or so, rarely exceeding 1.5m. In its native range, it produces tiny white flowers in the spring, though it is extremely rare for this plant to flower at all when it is grown indoors. It is a tender plant (H1B hardiness rating), meaning it is generally grown indoors in the UK but can be grown outside in the summer months when temperatures are consistently over 10°C.1 Even though a Dragon Tree grown as a houseplant cannot hope to compete with the wonderful wild specimens, it can still be a very attractive addition to your home. These plants have sword-like green leaves with reddish edges, which fan out a little like a palm atop a slender trunk. Why Grow Dracaena marginata? D. marginata is an extremely popular houseplant for a number of reasons. For one thing, it has a bold, architectural form that can lend itself to a range of interior design styles. They are moderately easy to care for (as you will learn below) and will thrive in a reasonably wide range of conditions. It is well suited to indoors growth and can thrive even with little care. Dragon Tree Varieties There are a number of named cultivars to consider when choosing a dragon tree to grow as a houseplant in your home. D. marginata ‘Tricolor’ and D. marginata ‘Variegata’ are the most commonly grown cultivars here in the UK and have received an RHS Award of Garden Merit. Other named cultivars include ‘Colorama’, ‘Magenta’, and ‘Tarzan’. See more types here. Where To Grow D. marginata should be grown indoors, in a light and bright location, but out of direct sunlight, which can cause burning to the foliage. Choose a location where temperatures consistently remain above around 15°C. Optimum temperatures for a dragon tree are between around 21-26°C. Regular household humidity should be absolutely fine for these plants. However, if the conditions are particularly dry, consider increasing humidity by grouping this with other houseplants, and perhaps by misting lightly every week or so in drier periods. While this plant can do well as a lone houseplant, it may do better when grouped with several other low-maintenance tropical plants. “Once temperatures are consistently above 10°C, D. marginata can be moved outside, ideally in dappled shade and not in full sun, where it can be enjoyed perhaps as part of a patio arrangement,” says Roy, a Master Horticulturist and Professional Gardener. Plant Care Container & Growing Medium D. marginata should be placed in a container of sufficient size to accommodate its root system, with around an inch or so of the medium around each side. In terms of the growing medium: a well-drained, fertile, loam-based compost is the best choice. Watering Watering is where many houseplant owners may go wrong when it comes to caring for D. marginata. Like other drought-tolerant plants, overwatering is the most common issue. While these plants can cope rather well with dry conditions, they cannot tolerate waterlogged, soggy conditions. “Ideally, plants should be planted in pots with drainage holes on a saucer so excess water can be removed,” explains Roy. “Otherwise, careful monitoring is important, with the potting compost being allowed to dry out before watering.” When watering, try to use rainfall where possible – take care with water that contains higher levels of salt or fluoride. Both overwatering, and watering with water that is high in salt or fluoride, can cause browning of the leaves on your dragon tree plant. Common Problems D. marginata is blissfully untroubled by many common pests and diseases – and it is largely an extremely trouble-free plant to grow. Where things do go wrong, it is more likely to be a sign of overwatering or otherwise less than optimal conditions. However, some pests that might be found on this plant are mealybugs, sap-suckers like scale and thrips – and spider mites. These can do some damage, though will not usually kill your plant. It is a good idea to keep on top of any problems by checking over your plant regularly and rinsing off any pests that you find. See more on common houseplant bugs in this guide. Repotting D. marginata grows rather slowly, and will typically only need to be repotted every 2-3 years. Topdressing your container with a new layer of compost on the top is worthwhile doing more often, however. It is a good idea to replace the top section of growing medium annually, to replace less fertile and compacted material. Both repotting and refreshing/top dressing are best done in the spring. Pruning These plants do not typically require any pruning at all. However, if necessary, weak stems can be cut back to around 15 cm in the spring. Propagation If you would like to make new plants from an existing dragon tree, it is unlikely that you will be able to collect any seed when growing indoors. However, it is reasonably easy and straightforward to take cuttings from the tree that will increase your own stock of houseplants or give you plants to give away as gifts, perhaps, to family or friends. Stem cuttings from D. marginata will root relatively easily in water, and it is unlikely that you will need to use rooting hormone to get cuttings to root successfully. You can also propagate D. marginata by beheading; cutting off the top section of the plant, planting in potting compost and placing it on a heat mat or in a propagator to give some bottom heat until the stem roots. Or, by air layering where the stem is wounded and wrapped in sphagnum moss until roots appear and the stem can be cut away to make a new plant. References 1. Dracaena marginata (v) | Madagascar dragon tree. (n.d.). Royal Horticultural Society. Retrieved March 15, 2023, from https://www.rhs.org.uk/plants/31916/dracaena-marginata-(v)/details
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Gardener Chris Lee Shares 25 Indoor Trees To Brighten Your Living Spaces
IN THIS GUIDE 1) Dragon Tree 2) Yucca 3) Norfolk Island Pine 4) Rubber Plant 5) European Olive 6) Calamondin Orange Tree 7) Corn Plant 8) Money Tree 9) Fiddle Leaf Fig 10) Umbrella Tree 11) Swiss Cheese Plant 12) Parlor Palm 13) Dumb Cane 14) Benjamin Tree 15) Burmese Fishtail Palm 16) Bird of Paradise 17) Kentia Palm 18) Cast Iron Plant 19) Elephant Ear 20) Golden Pothos 21) Elephant’s Foot 22) Rose Painted Calathea 23) Coconut Palm Tree 24) Bay Tree 25) Southern Washingtonia References Plants and greenery breathe vigour and energy into indoor spaces. They’re a great way to bring a room to life, and to bring that little sprinkling of nature to cut through the man-made factors that can begin to feel a little bit oppressive. If you live somewhere with no private outdoor space, incorporating plants and indoor trees can be the only way to invite nature in, so it’s deeply important to make the right choices. In this guide, we’ll introduce twenty-five indoor trees to make a fantastic addition to any indoor space. “The naturalist E.O. Wilson coined the term biophilia (or love of living things) that we seem to possess, even if we aren’t always conscious of it,” explains Colin Skelly, a Horticultural Consultant.1 “That’s why you feel good when surrounded by plants and wildlife. Indoor trees are a great immersive way to draw on this innate positive feeling.” Whether you’re struggling to find room amongst your hundreds of other houseplants, or you’re a budding interior designer looking for their very first piece of indoor nature, there’ll be something in this list to align with your needs. 1) Dragon Tree BOTANICAL NAME: Dracaena marginata HARDINESS RATING: H1B BEST ROOMS: BATHROOM / KITCHEN SUNLIGHT: BRIGHT, INDIRECT LIGHT SOIL: ANY; MOIST; WELL-DRAINED WATERING: ONCE PER WEEK Let’s start with the indoor tree from the picture above, distinctive with its pinnacle of spiky leaves sporting the distinctive Dracaena tricolor pattern. Each leaf has a band of colour framed by green, with different varieties offering white or red. While this tree can flower, it’s unlikely to do so indoors. It’ll also reach a far more diminutive height: probably around a maximum of 6 feet indoors as opposed to 20 feet and above if left to its natural devices. Dragon trees like bright but indirect light, and need to be in well-draining soil. Try to find a spot with indirect sunlight, as they are prone to scorching. Water regularly, although make sure the top half of the soil is dry before doing so. This can take a couple of weeks, so bear in mind that the definition of “regularly” varies between plants. While dragon trees will probably be alright with the humidity levels in your house, you can give the leaves a spritz every once in a while to add a little moisture. 2) Yucca BOTANICAL NAME: Yucca elephantipes HARDINESS RATING: H2 BEST ROOMS: LIVING ROOM / DINING ROOM SUNLIGHT: BRIGHT, INDIRECT LIGHT SOIL: LOAM OR SAND; MOIST; WELL-DRAINED WATERING: ONCE PER WEEK; LESS IN WINTER This tree has a lovely exotic profile, adding a nice tropical feel to any room. The thick, deep green leaves lilt lazily to give a relaxed energy, and the thick trunk raising them away from the ground gives a distinctly tree-like appearance that not all indoor trees actually manage to achieve. The care requirements for this tree make it great for gardeners with less experience. It requires less watering than the dragon tree, and it will make do with lower quality soil as well. In fact, one of the easiest ways to damage a yucca is by overwatering it, so be careful! During the hotter months you may need to move your yucca outside to a spot with partial shade. When doing so, make sure to weigh down the container or put into a heavier pot. This will prevent gusts of wind from potentially knocking the plant over. The yucca’s maximum size is bigger than what will fit comfortably into most of our houses, although it takes such a long time to grow to this size that it won’t be a problem for a while. You’ll need to repot every few years as the plant grows. 3) Norfolk Island Pine BOTANICAL NAME: Araucaria heterophylla HARDINESS RATING: H1C BEST ROOMS: LIVING ROOM / BEDROOM SUNLIGHT: DIRECT LIGHT SOIL: ANY; MOIST; WELL-DRAINED WATERING: ONCE OR TWICE PER WEEK; BENEFITS FROM MISTING The Norfolk Island Pine is native to – you guessed it – Norfolk Island. This territory flies under the radar of most people, unless they’re Australians looking for a local holiday or, more likely, gardeners looking for a nice houseplant. The plant itself boasts the evergreen needle appearance you’d expect of a pine, the needles in dense and appealing clusters. Where most indoor trees bring an air of the tropical or the exotic, Araucaria heterophylla brings something a little more rugged and rustic, perhaps bringing to mind something Scandinavian. Your Norfolk Island Pine will do best in full sun or partial shade, with a few hours of direct sun being tolerated. Water every week or so, and let the top section of soil dry before adding any more. In terms of humidity, slightly higher than average household humidity is preferred. Give your plant the occasional spritz to make up for lower-than-ideal humidity. 4) Rubber Plant BOTANICAL NAME: FICUS ELASTICA HARDINESS RATING: H1B BEST ROOMS: LIVING ROOM / DINING ROOM SUNLIGHT: BRIGHT, INDIRECT LIGHT SOIL: ANY; MOIST; WELL-DRAINED WATERING: ONCE PER WEEK The rubber plant is a popular choice for people looking to spruce up their interior design. The thick green leaves provide a nice shot of colour, and their care regime is undemanding. As with some other indoor trees, the F. elastica grows to fairly lofty heights out in the wild, but it will stay within manageable limits when grown indoors. Over time as the size increases, you may find yourself needing to stake or otherwise support the branches to keep them steady. The best spot for your F. elastica will have a good amount of indirect sunlight. You only need to water when the top half of the soil is dry, and overwatering is a common source of damage – so take care! Repotting should be done every year for a young plant, and roughly every three years thereafter. You can tell when a young plant needs repotting because the roots will be bound. Big leaves mean this plant is prone to collect dust, so give them a wipe down with a damp sponge if they get too dusty. 5) European Olive BOTANICAL NAME: Olea europea HARDINESS RATING: H4 BEST ROOMS: CONSERVATORY (PATIO IN SUMMER) SUNLIGHT: FULL SUN; AS MUCH LIGHT AS POSSIBLE SOIL: ANY; WELL-DRAINED WATERING: ONCE PER WEEK If you often find yourself in conflicts and arguments, why not ensure a constant supply of olive branches to extend to people? Or, far more likely, why not choose this indoor tree as an attractive and distinctive way to liven up your drab indoor space? Olive trees love plenty of sunlight, and will do best with at least a few hours per day. Think about it: these are trees that grow naturally in stunning Italian and Greek sunshine, so you’ll need to make certain concessions based on the warm and glamorous lifestyle they’re used to. The tree will reward you, though. Their captivating clusters of miniature leaves come in a striking grey-green colour, bringing something a little different to the rich and exotic greens we’ve seen previously. It’s quite unlikely that your olive tree will actually bear fruit – something to keep in mind. Some ornamental varieties are unable to do so, while others require time outside in the right conditions to bud. So if you’re looking for home-grown olives, you’ll need to do a little extra research. Keep in frequent but indirect sunlight and water when the top of the soil is wet. Repot when the root ball is getting a little restricted to give your plant the best chances for a long life. 6) Calamondin Orange Tree BOTANICAL NAME: Citrus mitis HARDINESS RATING: H3 BEST ROOMS: CONSERVATORY (PATIO IN SUMMER) SUNLIGHT: DIRECT SUNLIGHT SOIL: LOAM-BASED POTTING MIX; MOIST; WELL-DRAINED WATERING: AS NEEDED; ONCE OR TWICE PER WEEK We really love this one. What’s more adorable than a plant that puts forth tiny oranges each year, and brings with it a charming and refreshing citrus scent? Also let us clarify: these aren’t tiny oranges, technically; they’re mandarins combined with kumquats. While this isn’t the type of plant you’d expect to see thriving in UK growing conditions, the saplings can be encouraged to have a long and healthy life if kept indoors and looked after well. Perhaps the main draw of this plant is its scent: refreshing and orangey, and a lovely extra sensory contribution to your home. When it’s in bloom, the calamondin will catch the eye (and nose) of any guests, and is guaranteed to be a talking point. Indoors these trees require temperatures above 13°C and will appreciate being fertilised each spring. Keep the soil moist but only water when the top couple of centimetres are dry, and don’t overwater. Give the plant direct sunlight each day for a few hours if possible, and if you have the space, move outside for a few hours a day in spring. Calamondin can actually tolerate spending summer outdoors entirely if you live in the right climate – we recommend double-checking this before doing so, however, as misjudging can harm growth. 7) Corn Plant BOTANICAL NAME: Dracaena fragrans HARDINESS RATING: H1B BEST ROOMS: KITCHEN SUNLIGHT: FILTERED, INDIRECT LIGHT SOIL: ANY; MOIST; WELL-DRAINED WATERING: EVERY TEN DAYS The corn plant is an interesting-looking indoor tree. It’s got a thick green stem with beige markings – looking almost like slash marks – which then give rise to smaller offshoots from which leaves fan gently out. It definitely shares an exotic aesthetic with plants featured earlier in this list, and would look great alongside a yucca, for example. The exotic visual appeal has ensure the persistent presence of corn plants in the interior decorator’s arsenal for many decades, and it’s easy to see why. While the plant has nothing to do with the corn you find in barbecues and salads, the name derives from the tuft of leaves at the top of the plant which, as somebody noted when choosing the name, look a little like the tuft atop field corn. This indoor tree can grow up to 15m tall in natural conditions, but in a container will most likely peak around 1.5-1.8m, making them ideal home companions. 8) Money Tree BOTANICAL NAME: Crassula ovata HARDINESS RATING: H2 BEST ROOMS: KITCHEN / LIVING ROOM SUNLIGHT: BRIGHT, INDIRECT LIGHT SOIL: LOAM-BASED POTTING MIX; WELL-DRAINED WATERING: EVERY TEN DAYS Native to South American climates, Crassula ovata is said to bring good fortune and prosperity. Thankfully it also has incredibly attractive foliage and is well suited to growing as an indoor tree. To care for your plant, keep it in indirect but bright light and water infrequently. 9) Fiddle Leaf Fig BOTANICAL NAME: Ficus lyrata HARDINESS RATING: H1B BEST ROOMS: LIVING ROOM / BRIGHT BATHROOMS SUNLIGHT: MOSTLY BRIGHT, INDIRECT LIGHT SOIL: ANY; MOIST; WELL-DRAINED WATERING: ONCE PER WEEK Fiddle Leaf Fig is an African native that is actually considered invasive in some areas.2 However, you needn’t worry about that if you’re looking to grow this in the UK, as the plant can’t survive outside of the home in our relatively colder climate. This plant can grow to a significant size so it looks really impressive in a living space or bathroom that receives plenty of bright light. 10) Umbrella Tree BOTANICAL NAME: Schefflera arboricola HARDINESS RATING: H1C BEST ROOMS: NORTH FACING SUNLIGHT: BRIGHT, INDIRECT LIGHT SOIL: LOAM-BASED COMPOST; MOIST; WELL-DRAINED WATERING: INFREQUENTLY; WHEN DRIED OUT Schefflera is commonly grown as an indoor tree here in Britain but in its native environment of New Guinea it can be found in many habitats. The plant is an epiphyte, which means it often grows on a host tree; sometimes quite high up.3 For the best results when growing indoors, choose a north-facing spot in your home, water infrequently and use loam-based compost with regular fertilisation. 11) Swiss Cheese Plant BOTANICAL NAME: Monstera deliciosa HARDINESS RATING: H1B BEST ROOMS: LIVING ROOM / DINING ROOM SUNLIGHT: BRIGHT, INDIRECT LIGHT SOIL: ANY; MOIST; WELL-DRAINED WATERING: ONCE PER WEEK Monstera is most widely known for its interesting perforations that give it a resemblance to its namesake ‘Swiss Cheese’. This is another indoor tree whose origins can be tied back to the rainforests of South America, where it uses its aerial roots to climb into tree canopies.4 For this reason, it’s always beneficial to provide your plant with a centralised moss pole, allowing it to climb and grow bigger. As it grows (and provided the plant has access to enough bright but indirect light) you’ll notice perforations opening up on the foliage, giving this plant incredible character. Monstera that are well-cared-for can grow quite large, so choose a spot with plenty of room. 12) Parlor Palm BOTANICAL NAME: Chamaedorea elegans HARDINESS RATING: H1A BEST ROOMS: BEDROOM / KITCHEN SUNLIGHT: MEDIUM OR LOW, INDIRECT LIGHT SOIL: ANY; WELL-DRAINED WATERING: EVERY ONE OR TWO WEEKS Chamaedorea elegans is the archetypal houseplant – extremely tolerant of neglect, loves well-drained soil and prefers a quiet corner of the home. Keep the plant in a low light environment for the best results – direct sunlight should always be avoided. Waterlogging will stunt your plant’s growth so be sure only to water when the plant is well dried-out – usually this means every one or two weeks. 13) Dumb Cane BOTANICAL NAME: Dieffenbachia HARDINESS RATING: H1A BEST ROOMS: LIVING ROOM SUNLIGHT: BRIGHT, INDIRECT LIGHT OR FULL SHADE SOIL: ANY; MOIST; WELL-DRAINED WATERING: EVERY ONE OR TWO WEEKS Another South-American native, Dieffenbachia is a low-maintenance tree that is perfectly suited to indoor growing conditions. Bright, indirect light is preferred, but the plant is equally as happy in part or full shade, which makes it an ideal houseplant.5 The plant will often develop interesting, variegated leaves which can make it an ideal talking point when situated in a living area of the home. 14) Benjamin Tree BOTANICAL NAME: Ficus benjamina HARDINESS RATING: H1C BEST ROOMS: ANY SUNLIGHT: BRIGHT, INDIRECT LIGHT SOIL: ANY; MOIST; WELL-DRAINED WATERING: ONCE PER WEEK The Benjamin Tree, or ‘Weeping Fig’ as it is commonly known, is an indoor tree with small rubbery leaves and drooping branches. It is usually best grown in a consistent area of the house, as large-scale changes to its environment can cause stress, causing the plant to drop its leaves.6 In its native landscape the plant actually produces red and orange fruits that turn black – but you are unlikely to see these when growing the plant indoors in the UK. 15) Burmese Fishtail Palm BOTANICAL NAME: Caryota mitis HARDINESS RATING: H1C BEST ROOMS: LIVING ROOM SUNLIGHT: BRIGHT, INDIRECT LIGHT SOIL: LOAM-BASED POTTING MIX; MOIST; WELL-DRAINED WATERING: EVERY 10 DAYS The next indoor tree on our list is the Burmese Fishtail Palm, a native of Tropical Asia that has interesting, fan-like foliage. The tall, clustering palms look fantastic in a living space alongside home furniture decor. Use a loam-based potting mix such as John Innes and keep the soil well-drained for optimal results. 16) Bird of Paradise BOTANICAL NAME: Strelitzia reginae HARDINESS RATING: H1B BEST ROOMS: LIVING ROOM / KITCHEN SUNLIGHT: FULL LIGHT SOIL: ANY; MOIST; WELL-DRAINED WATERING: DRY OUT BETWEEN WATERING; BENEFITS FROM MISTING 17) Kentia Palm BOTANICAL NAME: Howea forsteriana HARDINESS RATING: H1A BEST ROOMS: CONSERVATORY SUNLIGHT: DAPPLED LIGHT SOIL: LOAM-BASED POTTING MIX; WELL-DRAINED WATERING: ONCE PER WEEK 18) Cast Iron Plant BOTANICAL NAME: Aspidistra HARDINESS RATING: H3 BEST ROOMS: NORTH FACING SUNLIGHT: BRIGHT, INDIRECT LIGHT SOIL: ANY; MOIST; WELL-DRAINED WATERING: EVERY 10 DAYS 19) Elephant Ear BOTANICAL NAME: Alocasia zebrina HARDINESS RATING: H1A BEST ROOMS: BATHROOM / KITCHEN SUNLIGHT: MEDIUM, INDIRECT LIGHT SOIL: LOAM-BASED POTTING MIX; MOIST; WELL-DRAINED WATERING: ONCE PER WEEK; BENEFITS FROM MISTING 20) Golden Pothos BOTANICAL NAME: Epipremnum aureum HARDINESS RATING: H1B BEST ROOMS: KITCHEN / LIVING ROOM / BEDROOM SUNLIGHT: BRIGHT OR MEDIUM, INDIRECT LIGHT SOIL: ANY; MOIST; WELL-DRAINED WATERING: ONCE PER WEEK 21) Elephant’s Foot BOTANICAL NAME: Beaucarnea HARDINESS RATING: H1C BEST ROOMS: LIVING ROOM / KITCHEN SUNLIGHT: BRIGHT, INDIRECT LIGHT SOIL: ANY; WELL-DRAINED WATERING: EVERY 1-2 WEEKS 22) Rose Painted Calathea BOTANICAL NAME: Calathea rufibarba HARDINESS RATING: H1A BEST ROOMS: BATHROOM / KITCHEN SUNLIGHT: BRIGHT, INDIRECT LIGHT SOIL: ANY; MOIST; WELL-DRAINED WATERING: REGULARLY; KEEP SOIL DAMP 23) Coconut Palm Tree BOTANICAL NAME: Cocos nucifera HARDINESS RATING: H3 BEST ROOMS: CONSERVATORY / SOUTH-FACING KITCHEN SUNLIGHT: FULL SUN SOIL: ANY; MOIST; WELL-DRAINED WATERING: ONCE PER WEEK; BENEFITS FROM MISTING 24) Bay Tree BOTANICAL NAME: Laurus nobilis HARDINESS RATING: H4 BEST ROOMS: KITCHEN / CONSERVATORY SUNLIGHT: FULL SUN OR PART SHADE SOIL: ANY; WELL-DRAINED WATERING: ONCE PER WEEK 25) Southern Washingtonia BOTANICAL NAME: Washingtonia robusta HARDINESS RATING: H1C BEST ROOMS: CONSERVATORY / SOUTH-FACING KITCHEN SUNLIGHT: FULL SUN SOIL: LOAM-BASED POTTING MIX; WELL-DRAINED WATERING: EVERY 10 DAYS References 1. Rogers, K. (2023, June 13). Biophilia hypothesis. Encyclopedia Britannica. Retrieved June 27, 2023, from https://www.britannica.com/science/biophilia-hypothesis 2. Datiles, M., & Acevedo-Rodrígue, P. (2014). Ficus lyrata (fiddle-leaf fig). CABI Compendium. https://doi.org/10.1079/cabicompendium.24125 3. Chadburn, H. (n.d.). The “umbrella plant” in New Guinea. Kew Royal Botanic Gardens. Retrieved March 20, 2023, from https://www.kew.org/read-and-watch/umbrella-plant 4. Monstera (Monstera deliciosa). (n.d.). NYBG. Retrieved March 20, 2023, from https://libguides.nybg.org/monstera 5. Dieffenbachia. (n.d.). University of Florida: Institute of Food and Agricultural Sciences. Retrieved March 20, 2023, from https://gardeningsolutions.ifas.ufl.edu/plants/houseplants/dieffenbachia.html 6. Ficus benjamina. (n.d.). North Carolina Extension Gardener Plant Toolbox. Retrieved March 20, 2023, from https://plants.ces.ncsu.edu/plants/ficus-benjamina/
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