Growing
Dianthus: All You Need To Know When Growing Carnations Or Garden Pinks
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Carnations Garden Pinks Habitat & Growing Conditions Planting Dianthus Plant Care & Growing Tips Common Problems Sourcing Dianthus References Dianthus, the ‘Flower of the Gods’, was as admired in Ancient Greece as it is in Modern England, and for good reasons. The double, ruffled blooms with their fringed or frilly edges are unique, and exhibit colours from palest pink to maroon-black. Reputed as ideally suited for cottage gardens, it is fair to ask whether this wonderful genus is not ideally suited for any garden. Overview Botanical Name Dianthus Common Name(s) Carnation, Pinks, Sweet William Plant Type Perennial (some annuals) Native Area Southern Europe Hardiness Rating H6 / H7 Foliage Evergreen or deciduous Flowers Showy, often fragrant flowers When To Sow March, April, May, June, July, August, September, October Flowering Months May, June, July, August, September, October When To Prune October, November Dianthus is quite a fascinating genus of flowering herbaceous plants: though it encompasses a fair number of species totalling around 380, much of the ‘press’ and interest surrounds only three of those species – and those three species include untold thousands of cultivars.1 These three garden favourites are D. caryophyllus commonly known as Carnations, D. plumarius, colloquially called Garden Pinks, and D. barbatus, usually termed Sweet Williams. D. chinensis The vast majority of cultivars of interest are evergreen perennials. The ruffly, frilly flowers come in white, yellow, pink, red, and mauve in a remarkable range of hues from palest pastel to rich and intense. Moreover, many cultivars’ flowers are bicoloured, exhibiting feathering, edging, or flecks. They are marked by a somewhat unusual feature: the distal end of most varieties’ petals are fringed, serrated or even toothed. D. caryophyllus All carnations have double or semi-double flowers and most garden pinks are double while a few are single. Another quirky attribute carnations and garden pinks, particularly the latter, have is their scent. While some are unscented, and others are moderately scented, many exude a thick, sweet fragrance redolent of cloves or cinnamon. Carnations Carnations are divided into perpetual flowering or exhibition carnations, border carnations, and pot carnations. The former bloom year-round and are cultivated in greenhouses for exhibiting and floriculture. The latter are compact evergreens to about 25cm and often have semi-double flowers. Border carnations are the ones with which most of us are familiar; these have a bushy, erect habit, are 50cm or more, and have full double flowers. These plants are also typed by the size of their bloom and by whether there is a single flower or a spray. Though all Dianthus cultivars provide excellent cut flowers, carnations are much valued by florists as they stay ‘fresher than a daisy’ in bouquets and are remarkably long-lasting in vases. Garden Pinks D. plumarius Yet between carnations, sweet williams, and garden pinks, it is the last-named that runs away with the popularity prize – garden pinks are British gardeners’ favourite Dianthus. Like carnations, pinks are also divided into types, but they descend from different species. Besides garden pinks, there are cheddar pinks and China pinks; the former are cultivars of D. gratianopolitanus, and the latter of D. chinensis. Pinks are named as such because their petals look as if they were cut by a tailor’s decorative pinking scissors which leaves a zig-zag edge. Habitat & Growing Conditions D. plumarius Dianthus species occur in nature in extensive geographical regions and climatic zones. They are found in the heat of India and Northern Africa to the northernmost reaches of Russia. They grow in fields, woodlands, steppes, hillsides, and taiga. The various species’ hardiness varies from Hardiness Zones Sub-H7 to H3. Nearly all the popular cultivars are hardy to H6. Perpetual flowering carnations are not hardy being suitable only to H2, which is why they are grown in greenhouses. D. ‘Zenit’ The varieties’ heat tolerance varies too. In general, various pinks and sweet Williams are more heat tolerant than carnations. D. caryophyllus, a carnation, originates from the Mediterranean region including Italy and Greece. Though D. plumarius, garden pink, is native to Central Europe, it has colonised several regions of the United States where it is classified as an invasive species. D. barbatus, sweet William, is from Southern Europe, growing in nature in a belt of land from Spain to Hungary and Romania. It exhibits a preference for hillsides and hilly areas. Planting Dianthus The heights, habits, blooms, and colours of Dianthus varieties make these evergreens excellent choices for all purposes from edging a walkway to the middle rows in a mixed bed. Dwarf pinks which grow to 20-30cm are ideal for rock gardens and edging. Pink ‘Pixie Star’ and pink ‘Dainty Dame’ are excellent examples. Mat-forming cheddar pinks are just as excellent for such purposes. These types of dwarf evergreens are also top choices for groundcover. Border carnations attain heights from 50-75cm. Though, in general, they have a bushy habit, they can be pruned for a more columnar form. If this is done many cultivars will require staking, while some require staking anyway. They are perfect for the middle of a bed or even the rear of a narrow bed. Some varieties offer the height, habit and striking bloom to be set out in pots. Carnation ‘Leon Tautz’ and carnation ‘Jean Knight,’ among a few others, make fantastic specimen plants. Midway between the two are garden pinks with a mounding habit and sweet Williams. With heights falling between 30-60cm, they are great for the front of beds and borders, and also are very well suited as pot plants and container plants. Examples include pink ‘Pinball Wizard,’ pink ‘Rhian’s Choice’ and sweet William ‘Auricula-Eyed Mixed’. Plant Care & Growing Tips Considering that the Dianthus genus is quite large and, especially, the fact that a few species have been heavily cultivated for centuries, Dianthus plants respond very well to a single set of generalised gardening tips. Soil Requirements A light, clay-free, sandy, gravelly loam amended with peat moss or compost is ideal for these plants. The soil must be very well-drained. Its pH should be moderately alkaline to slightly alkaline – 8.4 to 7.4. Aspect Plants may get full sun, or morning sun and filtered or dappled afternoon sun. When transplanting, the soil level of each plant should be the same as it was in the tray or pot. Better a little too low than a little too high. As for the spacing, this will depend on the habit and the spread of the variety in question. Staking Some carnation cultivars need support as they grow. Stake them by enclosing the main stem with support canes and tying them around with twine. Pruning In order to encourage a bushy habit or mounding in young pinks, the leader is sometimes bent or pinched, and initial flowering is otherwise impeded until the plant develops a sufficient number of side shoots. Disbudding is a method sometimes used in carnations though this is done to primarily influence targeted flowers and not the plant as a whole. To maximise the size and quality of pre-selected carnation buds for blooming, you may choose to disbud others. “Most Dianthus will make great cut flowers, just cut them and place them in a small vase,” says Master Horticulturist Peter Lickorish. Sometimes, you may find they start to root in the water, so I would then trim off the flower and pot it up to grow on.” Common Problems Dianthus, more often carnations, can be affected by carnation rust, bacterial wilt, and fusarium wilt. They are also subject to viral infections which cause carnation mottle, carnation etched ring, carnation ring spot and other diseases. These each require specialised treatment. Sourcing Dianthus Carnation, garden pink, and sweet William varieties are among the easiest plants to find, with the perennial British favourite garden pink leading the pack. Some or other varieties are available as potted plants in virtually every nursery and garden centre, while seed packets are equally easy to find. In addition, you can get new Dianthus by layering and cuttings. The somewhat more technical art of layering is usually used with carnations while softwood cuttings work well with both carnations and garden pinks. References 1. Fassou, G., Korotkova, N., Nersesyan, A., Koch, M. A., Dimopoulos, P., & Borsch, T. (2022, May 23). Taxonomy of Dianthus (Caryophyllaceae) – overall phylogenetic relationships and assessment of species diversity based on a first comprehensive checklist of the genus. PhytoKeys; Pensoft Publishers. https://doi.org/10.3897/phytokeys.196.77940
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42 Plants That Spread Easily, Including Prolific Clump Forming Options
IN THIS GUIDE Are Plants That Spread Easily Always A Good Thing? Choosing Plants That Spread Easily Top Self-Seeding Plants 1) Alchemilla mollis 2) Alliums 3) Angelica 4) Aquilegia 5) Borage 6) Calendula 7) Dipsacus fullonum 8) Erigeron 9) Foxgloves 10) Lamiums 11) Marigolds 12) Myosotis sylvatica 13) Nasturtiums 14) Poppies 15) Verbena bonariensis 16) Yarrow Larger Clump-Forming Perennials That Spread Easily 17) Acanthus mollis 18) Bergenia 19) Bronze Fennel 20) Comfrey 21) Lupins 22) Penstemon 23) Persicaria 24) Phlox paniculata Ground Cover Perennials That Spread Easily 25) Aubretia 26) Campanula 27) Clovers 28) Lily of the Valley 29) Creeping Thyme 30) Crocosmia 31) Woodruff 32) Hardy Geraniums 33) Heuchera 34) Mentha (Mints) 35) Pachysandra 36) Sedums 37) Vinca minor Weeds Or Useful Garden Plants? 38) Ground Elder 39) Chickweed 40) Nettles 41) Cleavers 42) Dandelions Introducing Spreading Plants References Self-seeders and clump-forming and ground cover perennials are all plants that spread to fill your garden easily. The best gardens are gardens that just continue to look better and better over time. Creating that lush and abundant look can sometimes seem a challenge. But by choosing plants and flowers that spread easily, you can create a garden that fills out and looks more established, much more quickly and with much less effort on your part. When you choose prolific self-seeders and perennial plants which spread easily, you can fill your garden far more easily, and also at a much lower cost. Nature will do a lot of the work for you, filling in gaps and covering bare soil in your garden. You won’t need to buy as many plants or sow as many seeds to create your garden. Are Plants That Spread Easily Always A Good Thing? While some plants which spread easily can be beneficial for gardeners in the UK, it is important to recognise that some plants which spread easily can become invasive. It is also important not to harm local ecosystems by introducing invasive, non-native species which might become a problem in your area.1 Sometimes, when it comes to which plants are beneficial spreaders, and which are invasive – location is key. Be sure to check that no harmful plants (or plants that you don’t want to spread too profusely) are included in your garden design, as allowing certain invasive, non-native species into the wild can make you liable for prosecution and responsible for damage caused.2 It is important to think about the location, and not to place a plant that spreads too profusely in the wrong spot. Choosing Plants That Spread Easily Remember, if you want plants to thrive and to spread, make sure you choose the right plants for the right places. Plants will not self-seed or spread to fill an area if they are not provided with the right soil for their needs, and the right environmental conditions. Always make sure you understand the conditions in your garden before you make planting or seed sowing choices, because the plants which spread incredibly easily in one area may not do so in another. How quickly plants will spread can not just differ from one end of the British Isles to the other – it can also differ from one garden to the next, depending on a range of microclimatic factors. Top Self-Seeding Plants If you are looking for plants and flowers that spread easily, the first category of plants to consider are self-seeders. Many annual, biennial and perennial plants can be excellent self-seeders in the right conditions. Remember, however, how successfully individual plants will self-seed will be determined by the environmental conditions in your particular garden. Some excellent self-seeding plants are: 1) Alchemilla mollis 2) Alliums 3) Angelica 4) Aquilegia 5) Borage 6) Calendula 7) Dipsacus fullonum 8) Erigeron 9) Foxgloves 10) Lamiums 11) Marigolds 12) Myosotis sylvatica 13) Nasturtiums 14) Poppies 15) Verbena bonariensis 16) Yarrow Some self-seeders can be good choices for inclusion in predominantly perennial, low maintenance garden beds and borders, or even be allowed to self-seed as companion plants in a polyculture vegetable garden – where flowers can often be wonderfully beneficial to bring in bees and other pollinators, and other beneficial wildlife. Larger Clump-Forming Perennials That Spread Easily If you want to quickly establish an impactful perennial bed or border, you will want to include plenty of clump-forming perennials. Some clump-forming perennials that tend to spread well and easily include, but certainly are not limited to: 17) Acanthus mollis 18) Bergenia 19) Bronze Fennel 20) Comfrey 21) Lupins 22) Penstemon 23) Persicaria 24) Phlox paniculata There are, of course, plenty of other beautiful and impactful perennials which you can use to create the perfect perennial border or another planting area in your garden with remarkably little effort on your part. Ground Cover Perennials That Spread Easily Perhaps the parts of your garden where plants that spread easily are required are areas where ground cover is required. Fortunately, no matter whether you are gardening in full sun, partial shade or full shade – and no matter what other conditions you can provide, there are plenty of great ground cover plants to consider. Here are some ground cover perennials that spread easily for you to consider – some suited to sunnier spots, and some to more shaded positions: 25) Aubretia 26) Campanula 27) Clovers 28) Lily of the Valley 29) Creeping Thyme 30) Crocosmia 31) Woodruff 32) Hardy Geraniums 33) Heuchera 34) Mentha (Mints) 35) Pachysandra 36) Sedums 37) Vinca minor Again, of course, these are just a select few of the many different ground cover plants that you could consider for your garden. Weeds Or Useful Garden Plants? Edible weeds spread easily and can often be useful wild foods. Ground elder is one example When we are talking about plants that spread easily, we cannot conclude without making some mention of weeds. In an organic garden, rethinking weeds can help us understand that sometimes, weeds are just plants that thrive in our particular environment. While they are not always the plants we want – sometimes they can be extremely useful additions to our gardens. Some common weeds which spread very easily, but which can also be beneficial include: 38) Ground Elder Often considered a pernicious weed, which can quickly take over, ground elder can also make excellent ground cover, and is also edible. “I cannot over-emphasise how difficult it is to eradicate this weed due to its masses of tangled roots which propagate from tiny pieces left in the ground when attempting to weed it out,” shares Master Horticulturist Roy Nicol. “It should not be introduced to a garden under any circumstances but if already in situ, can be harvested as indicated.” 39) Chickweed A weed which spreads quickly by seed, but which is a very useful wild edible which can also be useful as a companion plant in your vegetable garden. 40) Nettles The common stinging nettle is also a weed that spreads very, very easily, but it is also a delicious edible plant, with many other uses. 41) Cleavers These sticky plants can take over an area of your garden very quickly. But rather than eradicating them altogether, think about the fact that these are useful edible and plants. 42) Dandelions Of course many gardeners hate dandelions to take over their lawns. But dandelions are another flowering plant that spreads quickly which can be very useful in your garden, and also delivers a range of yields. These are just a few examples of some common weeds which spread easily, but which may be beneficial rather than something you don’t want in your garden. This brings home that sometimes, weeds are just plants that thrive and spread easily where you live. Introducing Spreading Plants Plants that spread easily can make things a lot easier and lower maintenance. So rather than thinking of quick-spreading plants as garden ‘thugs’, it can sometimes be a good idea to give them a second look. This helps us to recognise the many benefits that, as plants ideally suited to the environment, they can bring. Plants that spread easily always need to be considered carefully before they are placed in a garden or allowed to thrive. But in the right places, these prolific plants can make your gardening easier, and help you create a beautiful planting scheme, wherever you live. References 1. Invasive Species. (n.d.). National Geographic. Retrieved March 22, 2023, from https://education.nationalgeographic.org/resource/invasive-species/ 2. How to stop invasive non-native plants from spreading. (2014, September 23). GOV.UK. Retrieved March 22, 2023, from https://www.gov.uk/guidance/prevent-the-spread-of-harmful-invasive-and-non-native-plants
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How You Can Grow Beautiful Canna Lilies As A Spot And Dot Plant In Bedding Schemes
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Why Grow Canna Lilies? Canna Varieties How To Grow Canna Planting Canna Lilies Summer Care References Canna lilies are vibrant perennials that can really brighten up a garden border or container garden. Though tender, they can make beautiful summer bedding plants – the rhizomes can overwinter in milder, more southerly parts of the UK as long as they have a good covering of mulch. They can also be grown in a cool conservatory indoors during the summer months. Even though they are commonly called Canna lilies, Canna are not actually lilies at all – they are actually a family of a number of species in the order Zingiberales.1 They are more closely related to gingers, bananas and arrowroot. Typically, in the UK, we tend to think of cannas as ornamental garden plants – and many cultivars have certainly been developed for their visual appeal, but cannas are also used around the world as an edible source of starch in food production.2 Overview Botanical Name Canna Common Name(s) Canna Lily Plant Type Perennial Hardiness Rating H2 / H3 Foliage Deciduous Flowers Showy flowers When To Sow April, May, June Flowering Months July, August, September, October When To Prune October, November Canna lilies, both ornamental and edible species, are native to tropical and subtropical regions of the new world, from the Southern US to Northern Argentina.3 However, cultivars were mostly developed in temperate climate zones and can be grown throughout temperate zones as long as they get 6-8 hours of sunshine daily in the main growing season, and are protected from winter cold. Canna lilies in various colours Canna lilies have beautiful flowers, usually in red, orange or yellow or some mix of these colours – which is why they have become such popular plants in horticulture around the world. Why Grow Canna Lilies? Most gardeners will grow canna lilies for their ornamental appeal. Their impressive display of blooms that can flower in your garden from June to October (and their large leaves) make these plants firm favourites for many garden schemes. There are also varieties which can be grown for their starchy rhizomes. This could be something to delve into more deeply if you are interested in forest gardening, or edible landscaping. Cannas can also be useful in organic, permaculture gardens for the generation of biomass, which can be used in mulching, composting, and returning nutrients to the soil.4 Interestingly, Cannas are also sometimes used in drawing pollutants for the restoration of wetland environment.5 “Canna lilies have been used widely as a spot and dot plant in bedding schemes for decades,” shares Dan Ori, who has been awarded the Master Horticulturist status by the RHS. “The spot or dot plant is a feature plant used in conjunction with groundwork (bed filling plants) and edging plants (used around the edge of a bed). “I recommend combining Cannas with Begonia semperflorens as the groundwork and an upright pink-flowering Lobelia as an edging plant. “If you’re growing in a large container or raised bed, I recommend switching the Lobelia to a training pink cultivar.” Canna Varieties Red Canna Lilies If growing canna for ornamental reasons, there are many modern cultivars and hybrids to choose from. These include the RHS AGM awarded: ‘Alaska’ ‘Annaeei’ C. x ehemannii ‘Endeavour’ (water canna) ‘Erebus’ (water canna) ‘General Eisenhower’ ‘Louis Cayeux’ ‘Musifolia’ ‘Mystique’ ‘Phasion’ ‘Picasso’ ‘Ra’ (water canna) ‘Russian Red’ ‘Shenandoah’ ‘Striata’ ‘Verdi’ ‘Whithelm Pride’ ‘Wyoming’ C. edulis is the species commonly grown in agricultural cultivation. How To Grow Canna Canna lilies can be grown in beds or borders, or in containers. Growing in containers in cooler regions means the plants can be taken indoors during the coldest part of the year – they will require a sunny and sheltered spot. I have found that shelter is particularly crucial because the large leaves of the plants are often shredded by strong winds. Most of the cannas on the list above are best grown in moist but well-drained soil. They require a chalk, loam or sandy soil that is moderately high in fertility but will not become waterlogged. Remember, when choosing and positioning a Canna, that these grow into large plants – some varieties can reach well over 2m in height. Smaller varieties may be better for growing in containers, but even these will typically grow over a metre tall. Water cannas in a pond Water cannas are a little different – these can grow in a moist and well-watered border, or in a container placed in a basin of water. They can also be placed in pots into the shallow edges of a garden pond, as long as there is no more than around 15cm of water over their roots. Planting Canna Lilies Cultivars will not come true from seed – if you do decide to take the harder route and grow from seed, note that cannas grown from seed will not flower, typically, until their second year. For this reason, Canna are more generally grown from rhizomes (root sections), which are typically available for sale in late winter. Growing From Rhizomes In order to grow canna from rhizomes, gardeners simply place the root section into a pot of multi-purpose compost, with the rhizome just covered. This is usually done in March or April – as soon as conditions of 10-16°C can be maintained. If you have a conservatory, propagator or heated greenhouse, you can obviously start a bit earlier than those without heated growing spaces. Pot-Grown Plants If you have missed out on planting rhizomes for canna lilies this year – don’t worry. Canna lilies can also be purchased as pot-grown plants at any point over the late spring or summer. Early Plant Care Canna lilies that have been grown from rhizomes should start to develop strong shoots in a matter of weeks. As the shoots develop, it is important to make sure that you keep up with the watering of your plants. Keep Cannas protected and undercover until all risk of frost has passed in your area. Harden off and plant out around the end of May in most parts of the UK. If you are growing your Canna in a bed or border of the summer, plant out at a spacing of around 75cm apart, and around 10cm deep. Mulch well around the plants with good quality homemade compost or well-rotted manure. If you are placing your Canna in containers, make sure that the containers you choose are at least 30cm wide. A John Innes no. 3 loam-based compost will be ideal as a growing medium; again, place the rhizomes around 10cm deep. Summer Care Caring for Canna lilies over the summer months is generally fairly easy and hassle-free. You need to make sure that you provide plenty of water during dry spells, while it is also a good idea to provide a potassium-rich organic liquid feed in mid-summer. Canna in sheltered spots should not usually need staking, but some support may be beneficial for particularly tall specimens, or for those grown in a slightly exposed spot. Common Problems One piece of good news is that Canna in the UK are rarely seriously troubled by pests or diseases. Just look out for the usual garden culprits – slugs, snails, aphids etc. Though they can be annoying, these pests are generally pretty easy to control in a well-balanced ecosystem of an organic garden. Rarely, the plants may develop a virus – sadly, there is no cure for this and the infected specimens must be destroyed. But most canna growers generally experience few problems and find Canna relatively easy and trouble-free to grow. Non-Flowering Problems of non-flowering which can arise are usually the result of trying to grow Canna in an unsuitable spot, starting to grow rhizomes too late, a lack of water or poor soil fertility. But take care of the soil, plant at the right time, and water well and you should not encounter issues. Most Canna care over the summer months will involve taking a couple of simple steps to make sure that the flowers bloom for as long as possible. First of all, it is a good idea to deadhead the spent flowers, which will encourage more to appear. Once a particular flower spike stops budding, it is also a good idea to cut it down to the next side shoot. This should encourage a secondary flower spike to develop. References 1. Cannas. (2021, December 21). The Gardens Trust. Retrieved March 13, 2023, from https://thegardenstrust.blog/2016/02/20/cannas/ 2. Imai, S. (2016, April 15). Edible Canna: A Prospective Plant Resource from South America. Academia. Retrieved March 13, 2023, from https://www.academia.edu/24407832/Edible_Canna_A_Prospective_Plant_Resource_from_South_America 3. Canna indica. (n.d.). Kew Royal Botanic Gardens. Retrieved March 13, 2023, from https://powo.science.kew.org/taxon/urn:lsid:ipni.org:names:319130-2 4. Vankar, P. S., & Srivastava, J. (2018). A review-canna the wonder plant. Journal of Textile Engineering & Fashion Technology, 4(2). https://doi.org/10.15406/jteft.2018.04.00134 5. Canna can: Ornamental eliminates pollutants from stormwater runoff. (2009, December 9). Science Daily. Retrieved March 13, 2023, from https://www.sciencedaily.com/releases/2009/12/091210153659.htm
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Create Your Own Herbaceous Border - Use Perennials For 'A Succession Of Flowering'
IN THIS GUIDE What Is A Herbaceous Border? Marking Out & Preparation 1) Don’t Restrict Yourself To The Very Edges Of The Garden 2) Use Natural Materials For Edging 3) Consider No Dig Methods 4) Place Your Plants By Height 5) Plant In Ribbons Choosing Plants For A Herbaceous Border Best Flowering Perennials For A Herbaceous Border Planting Your Perennial Border References Creating a stunning herbaceous border can be great for the wildlife in your garden, and great for you. Herbaceous borders are great for gardeners who want to create a beautiful and long-lasting garden design. These planting schemes are great for biodiversity – and for attracting plenty of beneficial creatures to share your space. “There are a huge number of perennials available to gardeners in the UK climate, from early spring to early winter,” shares Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly. “When planned to provide a succession of flowering and combined with bulbs, shrubs and trees, they can provide a huge amount of floral resources for pollinators and food and habitat for other garden life.” They can also be quite quick to establish, meaning that you might not have to wait as long to get a lush and established look in your garden. If you would like to learn how to create a stunning herbaceous border where you live, then read on for some tips and suggestions. What Is A Herbaceous Border? Borders like these are a haven for pollinators A herbaceous border is a garden growing area that features a range of herbaceous perennials (plants that live in your garden over a number of years, but which die back each winter). The concept of herbaceous borders evolved here in the UK during the 19th Century.1 The term is usually used synonymously with the ‘herb perennial border’, which is the more popular name for this type of planting in the US and elsewhere. Marking Out & Preparation “If you’ve not done it before, start with planning,” shares Jinny Blom, a Garden Designer. “Map out the seasons first, then I’d go for colour. You need to give yourself some simple rules. “I’d also recommend flicking through some books that show plants in their native habitat, which means that you can quickly understand how big they are and what they do.” 1) Don’t Restrict Yourself To The Very Edges Of The Garden “Firstly, make borders wide enough,” shares award-winning Horticulturist Andy McIndoe. “1m wide is an absolute minimum, 2m is much better and 3m wide is ideal. This always seems excessive until plants start to grow. “You may think bigger borders mean more gardening work, but in fact, it’s quite the opposite. Give the plants the space and you will not spend your time cutting them back to keep them in the space.” Consider bringing the plants out of the edges, curving borders out into the centre of the space, or using herbaceous borders as divisions between garden rooms. Use curving and sinuous forms for a more naturalistic look. 2) Use Natural Materials For Edging If creating bed edging for your new border, consider natural or reclaimed materials. Or – consider simply edging the border with living ground cover plants. Mark out the edge of your new border with flour, string and stakes, or with a garden hose to create the edge of a more sinuous shape. “Try and keep the edges of your border neat,” says Laura from The 3 Growbags. “It’s ridiculous what folk will forgive if the border edges are sharp and look well-cared for.” 3) Consider No Dig Methods Consider using no dig methods – when creating a border on lawn, cover the grass with cardboard then layer up mulches before topping with a layer of well-rotted compost/ manure. You will dig planting holes to accommodate each plant but most of the soil will remain undisturbed. You can then add an organic mulch around your plants once you have placed them, and replenish this in spring each year. If you are already working with bare soil, make sure this is weed-free, then top dress with plenty of compost and/or other organic material. 4) Place Your Plants By Height For a very formal and regimented design, place taller perennials at the back of the border, mid-height plants at the centre, and low-growing or ground cover plants at the front. However, you can also mix things up a little and place wispy, tall plants close to the front of the border, so you look through these to the plants behind. Placing taller plants towards the front of the border can help break up the lower, mounded forms and make it look for organic, free-flowing and natural. “I think what often gets forgotten is playing around with height to create a three-dimensional space,” shares Garden Designer Juliet Sargeant. “There’s often a little strip of bare earth left at the front of a border, so pay attention to the front and make sure you put a few low-growing plants that spill over into the front of the path there. “Place tall plants at the back to make people’s eyes sweep up over the whole border. “It’s also really nice to break that up with translucent plants that have some ethereal movement to them so that you look through them. “Think about where people will actually be looking; plant to encourage people to look actively at the planting.” 5) Plant In Ribbons Plant in ribbons, or drifts of plants, and avoid placing too many individual flower types, which can make the overall border look a bit messy and overly fussy. Be sure to mix textures and forms to create a look which leads the eye and flows in a natural way. Avoid creating straight lines and solid blocks of colour on foliage, as these can be jarring and spoil the overall effect. “Nothing will ever be perfect in a garden and nor should it be,” says Laura. “It’s the striving for perfection that feeds the soul.” Choosing Plants For A Herbaceous Border Think about the environmental conditions. Be sure to choose plants suited to the climate and microclimate where you live. Think about whether the border is sunny or shaded, sheltered or exposed, and choose plants accordingly. Choose a selection of plants which provide blooms and visual appeal over as much of the year as possible. Try to make sure that each time one plant in the border finishes blooming, there are at least a couple more ready to take over. Consider native perennials, which can be particularly well suited to local growing conditions, and which can be particularly beneficial for local wildlife. Don’t overlook the potential of edible perennials, perennial herbs and other useful perennial plants as well as flowering ornamentals. A herbaceous border can be useful as well as beautiful. Remember that you can always ‘break the rules’ a little, and keep your border looking fantastic all year round by including grasses for autumn/ winter interest – and perhaps also some flowering shrubs towards the back of your perennial border. Consider whether the plants you are selecting will fit in with the overall look and feel of your garden. Will they be suited to the style of garden (contemporary, rustic, natural, wildlife-friendly etc.) that you want to create? Consider whether you will have a colour scheme for your garden. While there are no rules, and if you want a cacophony of colour you can certainly have one, it can often be best to choose a few hues and create a scheme centred around those colours. For example, you might create a silver and blue border, a green and white border, or a border with reds, purples and pinks or a sunny border with yellows and oranges, for example. “For the planting, think foliage first and flows second,” says Andy. “You need enough structure and you must plant for continuity. “This can be the problem with taking inspiration from show gardens. Remember that they are only there for a week, whilst your garden will be staring back at you year after year!” Best Flowering Perennials For A Herbaceous Border A beautiful herbaceous border To give an example of how to create a stunning herbaceous border, let’s take a look at some suggestions for a sunny herbaceous border, with year-round flowers in shades of purple, purplish pinks and blue. Here are some beautiful options to consider: Agastache Asters Bergenia cordifolia Campanula Centaurea montana Ceratostigma plumbaginoides Chives / Alliums Comfrey Delphiniums Echinops ritro Eryngium Geraniums Heuchera Hosta Limonium platyphylum Lupins Penstemon Perennial Brassicas Salvias Scabiosa Sedums Stachys byzantina Verbena bonariensis Veronica Violas Many of the options listed above will also work well alongside certain ornamental grasses, or alongside small shrubby plants like – most obviously, lavender, thymes and other perennial herbs, and perhaps some heathers too. Herbaceous border with sea holly, lavender, poppies, salvia, achillea and more! Fortunately, there are choices of plants in many different shades that will work very well in many UK gardens. The plants listed above are just a few examples for one particular scheme. Learning more about different plants that will grow well where you live, and the details of their blooming and care, will help you make the right choices for your own specific border. Make the right plant choices and your herbaceous perennial border can be in bloom from May or even earlier right through to September and beyond. Planting Your Perennial Border Once you have chosen which plants to include in your border, and once the border preparation has been done, it is a good idea to lay out the plants in their pots into the growing area, so you can play around with them and decide what to place where before you actually commit. March and September are the ideal times for planting out perennials. But you can plant them out at any time throughout the year, as long as the ground is not frozen, or waterlogged. It is also best to avoid times of extreme heat and dry conditions, as this can also make it more difficult for plants to become established successfully. See The Bigger Picture Once you have placed all your plants in their pots, be sure to stand back a little so you can take in the overall effect. It can be difficult to see the bigger picture when focussing closely on a few grouped plants. If you’re certain that you are happy with the overall look and balance of the border, then you can begin to plant all your plants. Bury each one to the same depth that it was in its pot. Then water your plants in well, and lay your organic mulch around your plants, making sure that you do not pile it up around the stems or crowns, as this can cause them to rot. Make sure that you continue to water well and regularly until the planting has become more established. References 1. The curious history of herbaceous borders. (1997, June 26). The Economist. Retrieved March 17, 2023, from https://www.economist.com/moreover/1997/06/26/the-curious-history-of-herbaceous-borders
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Grow And Care For Lobelia Plants - Ideal For A Rock Garden Or Mass Planting In A Bed
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Habitat & Growing Conditions Where To Grow Lobelia Perennial Or Annual? How To Grow Lobelia Plant Care Common Problems References One may think of Lobelia as a superlative bedding plant and surely it is – but there is much more to this genus. Boasting plants in numerous shapes and sizes, it is remarkable for the ‘variety’ in its varieties. This characteristic, in turn, provides a Lobelia ‘customised’ for virtually every garden purpose, with those delightful five-lobed blooms occurring in hues both pastel and brilliant. Members of this genus, however, do have a few unifying morphological characteristics. First, the leaves are simple and alternate. Second, the flowers have five lobes (‘petals’) with the upper lip comprised of two lobes and the lower lip of three. Overview Botanical Name Lobelia Common Name(s) Cardinal Flower, Blue Lobelia Plant Type Perennial (Some Annuals) Native Area North America / South Africa Hardiness Rating Mostly H3 Foliage Deciduous Flowers Showy, two-lipped flowers When To Sow April, May Flowering Months July, August, September When To Prune September, October Genus Lobelia is classified under Family Campanulaceae which has many bell-like flowers.1 Besides the word ‘diverse’ one may use the word ‘versatile’ to describe this genus. Because of the range in the varieties’ habits and the variety in the flowers’ hues, there’s a Lobelia to suit virtually every garden need though it must be said that many Lobelias are ideally suited for beds. This is because most varieties’ heights fall between 12-80cm, many bear brilliantly-coloured blooms, even more have prolonged blooming seasons, and almost all are floriferous and self-cleaning – no deadheading required. That’s quite a few ticks for Lobelia. Habitat & Growing Conditions Genus Lobelia is nearly Cosmopolitan, being found in all climatic zones except polar and all biomes except tundra. Lobelia species are native to all regions except Greenland, Alaska, Northern Africa, and a swath of Central Asia and South Asia but have been introduced in many of those regions too! As a very diverse genus whose species are native to numerous regions of the world, Lobelias’ habitats have a lot of variation. As a general rule, many Lobelia species in the wild grow in or near marshes and near waterways – they are found in most any sun-shade mix. Rich and moist soils suit most Lobelias very well, and they are not put off by heavy soils. However, many species also grow in sandy soils. When one considers that L. linarioides is native to the temperate and cool southern tip of South Africa while L. oxyphylla is native to the tropical heat of (the lowlands of) Cuba, one can readily conclude that it is difficult to peg down such a varied genus’s growing conditions.2 Where To Grow Lobelia Lobelia is one of those genera that is so extensive and so widely varied that where a Lobelia is best suited to is entirely dependent on the particular variety, to which the flip side is that for almost every garden need there is a Lobelia plant. If one Lobelia is ideal for a rock garden, another is equally well-suited to a mass planting in a bed. One variety may be great for a pot on the parapet; another one perfect for a basket hanging by the door. But do keep in mind that that first variety may look seriously weird in a hanging basket and the second one may look dumpy and awkward in a pot on the parapet! You will need to take into account the habit, height, spread – and the bloom and its hue – to determine the optimal setting, or at least a very good setting. Here is one good option for each of the four garden needs mentioned above: Rock Garden: L. erinus ‘Crystal Palace’ Mass Planting: L. × speciosa ‘Monet Moment’ Pot on Parapet: L. × speciosa ‘Hadspen Purple’ Hanging basket: L. erinus ‘Laguna White’ As it happens, this selection throws up a very nice assortment of colours: lilac-blue, magenta-pink, intense purple, and pure white. Perennial Or Annual? With respect to the popular varieties that are widely available and commonly grown, the fundamental difference is that L. erinus cultivars are hardy only to Zone H2 whereas L. x speciosa cultivars are hardy down to Zone H5. The upshot is that L. erinus cultivars are grown and treated as annuals in British gardens unless you overwinter them in a sunny and warm spot indoors or in the greenhouse. In strong contrast, L. speciosa cultivars are treated in the UK for what they are: deciduous perennials. How To Grow Lobelia L. x speciosa varieties are often propagated from cuttings or bought as potted plants but are also grown from mixed seeds. L. erinus varieties are typically grown from seeds. Lobelia seeds are unusually small and so much so that some seed producers pack several seeds into a ‘pellet’ especially in the United States. If you see a packet advertising Lobelia pellets, keep in mind that one pellet will germinate into multiple seedlings. Start the seeds indoors about ten weeks before your region’s last projected frost date with a view to transplanting the plants about four weeks after the last frost. Seeds can be started in small pots though Lobelias are very well suited to germination in growing trays. Put seed starting mix in the compartments and simply scatter seeds from above. Pat them on the soil, and firm up the soil, but do not cover the seeds. Temperature and light play a big part in the germination of Lobelia seeds – the soil temperature will need to be kept between 16-20°C. The seeds should get ample sunlight, otherwise set up a grow light over the tray, keeping the soil consistently moist but not wet. Seeds will germinate in about a fortnight and during the following four weeks you may thin them. After the last frost, harden the seedlings by setting them outside for progressively longer periods during the day – do so for 7-10 days. After this time you can transplant them outdoors; be mindful of the habit and spread of the variety and space accordingly. Plant Care As we know, Lobelia is an incredibly diverse genus with species originating in and native to widely varied regions. As a consequence, it is to be expected that the ideal growing conditions and care will also be quite variable. Therefore, if you obtain an unusual or exotic Lobelia species you will need to ask specialists or do some research as to the growing conditions and care that it requires. Soil Requirements A very good soil for Lobelias is a fertile loam of sand, chalk, and clay with some organic manure. The soil should drain very well though it should be kept almost consistently moist to get the best out of these denizens of marsh and bog. Though the soil pH may vary from moderately acidic to slightly alkaline, a pH between 5.5-6.5 is ideal. Sunlight & Temperature Most Lobelias do not withstand the dog days of summer very well; in hot sun they tend to wilt and lose their flowering energies. L. erinus ‘Crystal Palace’ Therefore, in sunnier and warmer regions of the UK it is best to site them where they get morning sun and afternoon shade. In other regions they will do well in full sun. Watering & Feeding Water moderately but regularly. The key is to keep the soil consistently moist. “Watering is key to success with Lobelia, as it would be expected that you water at least once a day in the summer in standard potting mixes and dry soils,” shares Master Horticulturist Dan Ori. “There are a few ways to help reduce the amount of water you need. “Maintain good soil moisture as it takes much more water to rehydrate dry soils, make a water-retentive potting mix of one-third vermiculite, one-third coir, and one-third good quality peat-free compost, and also prevent the soil surface from drying out by mulching around plants.” These plants are known to be heavy feeders – feed them with a balanced liquid fertiliser about every 20 days until about early July and then switch to a liquid 0-10-10 fertiliser, feeding at the same frequency through the season to keep these plants growing and glowing. Cutting Back As summer wears on and if the weather gets hot, many Lobelia varieties will start to flop and look as if they might give up the ghost. If this happens you may cut back the plant by one-third to a half but continue watering and feeding as before. When the temperature decreases in autumn the plant will revive and will reward you with fresh blooms. L. × speciosa ‘Monet Moment’ Common Problems Lobelias are remarkably disease-free and pest-resistant. On occasion, some L. × speciosa cultivars succumb to crown rot. If the disease is not spotted and treated early, which it seldom is, the plant needs to be removed and the soil treated and sanitised. Crown rot can be avoided by ensuring that the soil is not overly heavy, drains well, and does not stay wet. Also, it is better to keep the soil line a little too low than a little too high. Many Lobelias are subject to attack by slugs – they are less of a garden pest and more of a garden nuisance, and not very difficult to get rid of. References 1. Berry, P. (2009, February 3). Campanulaceae | plant family. Encyclopedia Britannica. Retrieved March 21, 2023, from https://www.britannica.com/plant/Campanulaceae 2. Lobelia oxyphylla. (n.d.). Encyclopedia of Life. Retrieved March 21, 2023, from https://eol.org/pages/5131496
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These 20 Perennial (Cold Hardy) Herbs Should Be A Cornerstone Of Any Garden
IN THIS GUIDE 1) Bay 2) Bergamot 3) Catnip 4) Chives 5) French Tarragon 6) Hyssop 7) Lavender 8) Lemon Balm 9) Lovage 10) Oregano 11) Mints 12) Parsley 13) Roman Chamomile 14) Rosemary 15) Salad Burnet 16) Sage 17) Sorrel 18) Sweet Cicely 19) Thyme 20. Winter Savory References There is a huge range of perennial herbs that can be very useful additions to your garden. ‘Perennial herbs’ is a term that can be used to apply to any herbaceous plants (in other words: plants that do not have woody stems above the ground). However, in this article we consider herbs in the sense of plants that have culinary uses, often with aromatic properties. All will be very useful while in growth, and will also be useful in your kitchen: 1) Bay BOTANICAL NAME: LAURUS NOBILIS HARDINESS RATING: H4 POSITION: FULL SUN OR PARTIAL SHADE FLOWERS: SUMMER MONTHS Bay laurel is a slow-growing evergreen shrub or small tree, H4 hardy in the UK. It can grow in full sun or light/dappled shade. A key ingredient in a French ‘bouquet garni’, bay leaves are used as a flavouring for soups, stews and other recipes. It will thrive in most soils which are fertile, and relatively moisture-retentive yet free draining. 2) Bergamot BOTANICAL NAME: MONARDA DIDYMA HARDINESS RATING: H5 POSITION: FULL SUN FLOWERS: SUMMER MONTHS This perennial herb (also known as Monarda didyma, bee balm or Oswego tea) is native to North America. However, it is also a useful and decorative herb to consider growing in UK gardens. It is H5 hardy in the UK and is not frost tender. Notable for attracting pollinators and other beneficial insects, bergamot is also used for culinary purposes. Leaves and the tips of the shoots are used in salads or drinks and it is famously used to impart an ‘Earl Grey’ flavour to China tea. 3) Catnip BOTANICAL NAME: NEPETA CATARIA HARDINESS RATING: H7 POSITION: FULL SUN FLOWERS: SUMMER / AUTUMN MONTHS Another excellent attractive perennial herb is Nepeta cataria. Catnip is of course best known for its intoxicating effect on felines, but the leaves can also be used as an aromatic flavouring in salads.1 They have a mint-like flavour. Catnip can also be used to make herbal tea. This hardy perennial is also great for visual appeal, wildlife attraction, and companion planting for pest control. Catnip is fully hardy in the UK. 4) Chives BOTANICAL NAME: ALLIUM SCHOENOPRASUM HARDINESS RATING: H6 POSITION: FULL SUN OR PARTIAL SHADE FLOWERS: SUMMER MONTHS Chives are a well known culinary herb in the onion (allium) family. They are excellent companion plants for a range of other crops, helping to repel, confuse or distract a range of pest species. When in flower, chives also look pretty and attract pollinators and other beneficial insects to your garden. Chives can be chopped into a salad, or used as a pot herb, to impart a mild onion flavour. Chives can grow in sun or light shade, in a rich, moist but free-draining soil. Chives are hardy to H6 in the UK. 5) French Tarragon BOTANICAL NAME: Artemisia dracunculus ‘French’ HARDINESS RATING: H4 POSITION: FULL SUN FLOWERS: AUTUMN MONTHS French tarragon, said to be superior in taste to Russian tarragon, is another well known culinary herb, and another perennial that can return each year in areas of the UK H4 and above.2 The leaves and shoots impart an anise flavour. French tarragon is usually grown in full sun but is H4 hardy and suited to growing in Britain. 6) Hyssop BOTANICAL NAME: Hyssopus officinalis HARDINESS RATING: H7 POSITION: FULL SUN OR PARTIAL SHADE FLOWERS: SUMMER / AUTUMN MONTHS This evergreen shrub is another great wildlife-friendly perennial to consider. Hyssop used to be a more common culinary herb than it is today, but it is well worth adding to your garden.3 Leaves and young shoot tips are used as a pot herb, imparting a flavour that combines mint and sage. “One of my favourite herbs, Hyssop is worth growing as an ornamental plant in its own right, but is also a fantastic plant for pollinators,” shares Horticultural Consultant Colin Skelly. “Easy to grow, it is an underused herb compared to other Mediterranean herbs.” Hyssop attracts a range of wildlife and can be useful as a companion plant in your garden. 7) Lavender BOTANICAL NAME: Lavandula angustifolia HARDINESS RATING: H5 POSITION: FULL SUN FLOWERS: SUMMER MONTHS Lavender is a well known ornamental shrub, prized for its beauty and fragrance. But what you might not realise is that leaves, petals and flowering tips can be used as a pot herb in moderation. The flavour is strong and so lavender is usually only used in small quantities, but it could be an interesting addition to your culinary repertoire. Fresh or dried flowers are sometimes also used to make herbal tea. 8) Lemon Balm BOTANICAL NAME: Melissa officinalis HARDINESS RATING: H7 POSITION: FULL SUN OR PARTIAL SHADE FLOWERS: SUMMER MONTHS Hardy to UK H7 and not frost tender, Melissa officinalis, lemon balm, is another of the great perennial herbs to grow in the UK. Bees and other insects love it, and it is notable for its delicious lemon flavour. It is also good for organic pest control and is said to be a useful dynamic accumulator plant.4 9) Lovage BOTANICAL NAME: Levisticum officinale HARDINESS RATING: H6 POSITION: FULL SUN FLOWERS: SUMMER MONTHS A perennial alternative to celery, lovage is a herb with a long history of culinary uses. This is another hardy herb that will return each year in UK H6 and above. It is often used as a pot herb to impart a celery-like or yeasty flavour. Young stems can also be used like celery in salads or cooked recipes. 10) Oregano BOTANICAL NAME: Origanum vulgare HARDINESS RATING: H6 POSITION: FULL SUN OR PARTIAL SHADE FLOWERS: SUMMER / AUTUMN MONTHS Origanum ssp. are also excellent perennial herbs that return each year. Both are notable culinary herbs, of course, and are also useful as wildlife attractants and companion plants. Sweet marjoram, O. majorana, and O. x majoricum (hardy marjoram) are H3 hardy. Oregano or ‘Pot marjoram’, O. vulgare, is H6 hardy. 11) Mints BOTANICAL NAME: MENTHA HARDINESS RATING: MOSTLY H7 POSITION: FULL SUN OR PARTIAL SHADE FLOWERS: SUMMER MONTHS There is a huge range of different mints that are great options to consider when choosing perennial herbs in the UK. Peppermints, spearmints, and many mints with different and unusual flavours can be considered. Mints can be very vigorous and can tend to take over garden spaces if left unchecked – but planting them in pots can prevent their spread. In some cases, you will want them to spread, as they provide excellent ground cover. Mints are, like many herbs on this list, great for wildlife and pest management in an organic garden. 12) Parsley BOTANICAL NAME: Petroselinum crispum HARDINESS RATING: H6 POSITION: FULL SUN OR PARTIAL SHADE FLOWERS: SUMMER MONTHS Though parsley is technically a biennial rather than a perennial (completing its lifecycle over two years) it is worthwhile considering it within a perennial herb garden as it will often self-seed readily. So like the other perennials on this list, it can often remain in your garden year after year. 13) Roman Chamomile BOTANICAL NAME: Chamaemelum nobile HARDINESS RATING: H7 POSITION: FULL SUN OR PARTIAL SHADE FLOWERS: SUMMER MONTHS Unlike German chamomile, Roman chamomile is a perennial herb. It is evergreen, in leaf all year and is hardy to H7 in the UK. Young sprigs are used as a flavouring in beers, and the flowers are used to make teas. 14) Rosemary BOTANICAL NAME: Salvia rosmarinus HARDINESS RATING: H4 POSITION: FULL SUN FLOWERS: SPRING / SUMMER MONTHS Rosemary is another well known culinary herb that will remain in your garden over a number of years. It is an evergreen shrub, with needle-like leaves which are used as a pot herb and in moderation in a range of different recipes. Rosemary is another great perennial to consider in a wildlife-friendly, sustainable garden. It is hardy to H4 and is not frost tender. 15) Salad Burnet BOTANICAL NAME: Sanguisorba minor HARDINESS RATING: H6 POSITION: FULL SUN FLOWERS: SUMMER / AUTUMN MONTHS Salad burnet, Sanguisorba, is an evergreen perennial that is H6 hardy. It has young shoots and leaves which can be eaten in salads, used as a garnish, or used in cooked recipes as a pot herb. Salad burnet can also be used in herbal teas. 16) Sage BOTANICAL NAME: Salvia officinalis HARDINESS RATING: H5 POSITION: FULL SUN OR PARTIAL SHADE FLOWERS: SUMMER MONTHS Sage (Salvia officinalis) is an evergreen shrub hardy to H5. This is of course a very common culinary herb, which can be used in a wide range of dishes. Other salvias can also be very useful perennial herbs to grow in your garden. 17) Sorrel BOTANICAL NAME: Rumex acetosa HARDINESS RATING: H7 POSITION: FULL SUN OR PARTIAL SHADE FLOWERS: SUMMER MONTHS A number of sorrels, or Rumex ssp. are also very useful perennial herbs of perennial vegetables. Sorrels have a lovely lemony flavour, and can be used in mixed salads, to make soups, or to impart flavour to a range of recipes. Sorrel is H7 hardy in the United Kingdom, and leaves can often be harvested in small quantities throughout the year. 18) Sweet Cicely BOTANICAL NAME: Myrrhis odorata HARDINESS RATING: H5 POSITION: PARTIAL SHADE FLOWERS: SUMMER MONTHS Another great perennial herb, Sweet cicely or anise is an aniseed-scented plant whose leaves are often used as a herb in salads or cooked recipes. There are also culinary uses for the seeds and roots of the plant. Sweet cicely is related to fennel, which is also a useful perennial herb to grow for an aniseed-like flavour. 19) Thyme BOTANICAL NAME: Thymus vulgaris HARDINESS RATING: H5 POSITION: FULL SUN FLOWERS: SUMMER MONTHS A number of thymes, including Thymus vulgaris (common thyme), are also very useful perennial herbs to grow in your garden. This shrub is notable as a companion crop for a range of common edibles, and is another great herb for attracting wildlife in your garden. It is H5 hardy and the leaves can be used fresh or dried. Cultivated hybrids such as lemon thyme, for example, are also well worth considering. 20. Winter Savory BOTANICAL NAME: Satureja montana HARDINESS RATING: H5 POSITION: FULL SUN FLOWERS: SUMMER MONTHS Last but not least, winter savory is another of the great perennial herbs to consider. This is an attractive plant, evergreen and hardy to H5 in the UK. The leaves have a hot and peppery flavour, and are often used with beans, or as a garnish for salads. The growing plant also attracts a range of beneficial insects, and is said to repel a range of pests. References 1. Fries, W. (2021, May 8). Truth About Catnip. WebMD. Retrieved March 21, 2023, from https://pets.webmd.com/cats/catnip-effects-on-cats#1 2. Mueller, C. (2009, January). The Three Tarragons: French, Russian and Mexican. Texas AgriLife Extension Service,. Retrieved March 21, 2023, from https://aggie-hort.tamu.edu/newsletters/hortupdate/2009/jan09/Tarragon.html 3. MasterClass. (2021b, August 26). How to Use Culinary Hyssop: 8 Ways to Cook With Hyssop. Retrieved March 21, 2023, from https://www.masterclass.com/articles/how-to-use-culinary-hyssop 4. Melissa officinalis. (n.d.). Plants for a Future. Retrieved March 21, 2023, from https://pfaf.org/user/plant.aspx?latinname=Melissa+officinalis
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How To Grow Platycodon For Their Elegant 'Puffed Up' Balloon Flowers
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Habitat & Growing Conditions How To Grow Platycodon Where To Grow Plant Care Common Problems References This plant’s buds are amusing, to say the least, as they perfectly resemble puffed-up mini balloons. But the open flower is so very different with its elegant trumpet shape and the face-on five-point star display in rich, deep purple tones. And so, as bud or as flower, it will charm your visitors and trigger a conversation. Just before the bud blossoms into a flower it looks for all the world like a puffed-up balloon just crying out to be popped (not that we recommend it). Indeed, not infrequently a Balloon Flower bud will resemble a hot-air balloon in miniature. Opened up, this merry flower is elegantly trumpet-shaped and viewed face-on is essentially a five-point star. Adjacent petals are joined at about the halfway point. Overview Botanical Name Platycodon Common Name(s) Balloon Flower Plant Type Perennial Flower Native Area Far East Hardiness Rating H5 Foliage Deciduous Flowers Open, bell-shaped flowers When To Sow April, May, June Flowering Months July, August, September When To Prune October The Balloon Flower, a member of the Platycodon genus, is a long-lived deciduous perennial that is native to East Asia.1 Platycodon is one of those rare genera that have a species count of one. The sole species member of Genus Platycodon is P. grandiflorus and there are several cultivars of the species. The genus is a member of the Campanula family which includes the Campanula or Bell Flower. The mother species produces flowers of a rich purple hue with a delicate filigree of veins on the petals. Though the Balloon Flower has made some serious inroads in gardens in the northern and eastern United States, it is far from common in the UK. “Playcodon grandiflorus makes a great perennial plant in the UK,” shares Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly. “It combines well with classic cottage garden plants although it can be used for multiple styles of planting, as well as being versatile in terms of soil pH (as long it is free-draining).” This reliable perennial will not only bring brilliant splashes of colour to your garden in that transition period from the dog days of summer into autumn, it will make for an interesting topic of conversation because of its relative ‘newness’ and also for the enormous and varied cultural significance Platycodon has in Japan and the Koreas. Habitat & Growing Conditions The Chinese Bellflower grows freely in the fields, meadows, and steppes of north-eastern Russia, eastern China, Japan, and the Koreas.2 In Japan and the Koreas these plants are a common sight in cottage gardens and farmyards. They tend to grow in sunny locations or part-shade locations. They are not found in heavy or wet soils but they grow in soil pH ranging from Moderately Acidic to Slightly Alkaline. Native to a relatively small swath of land, this robust plant adapts to all temperate and sub-tropical regions. A large majority of varieties are hardy to Zone H5. How To Grow Platycodon You may have to visit a few nurseries and garden centres to find one that sells potted plants. Platycodon seeds are available fairly widely, though not in a rich selection. Where the Balloon Flower is concerned, in the UK you will have to make do with limited varieties. However, if you have one Platycodon, you can get more. First, these plants are fairly reliable self-seeders though not aggressively so. You could also let the flowers dry out on the plant and then collect and store seeds though be mindful that cultivars usually will not grow true. Growing From Seed Though you can start Chinese Bellflowers indoors in small pots about six weeks before the last projected frost, in most regions of the UK it is a better idea to grow them outdoors from the off. Anytime in spring, after there is no chance of a frost, drop seeds on the soil but do not cover them because they need light to germinate. If you are concerned about birds picking up the seed then cover the seeds with a bare sprinkling of soil or protect them with garden mesh; water the seeds well. As the seeds sprout and grow, water them moderately such that the soil usually stays moist but is not overly wet. Balloon Flower’s water requirements are moderate. Propagating From Cuttings These plants can be grown quite reliably from stem cuttings. In late spring or early summer cut off about 10cm of the stem. Trim the leaves from the bottom half of the cutting. Dip the base of the stem in water, and apply some rooting hormone or dip it in honey and then in cinnamon. Plant the cutting in damp soil of the type described above, amended with potting soil near the surface. Water moderately so as to keep the soil moist. Where To Grow As mentioned, Platycodon is tailor-made for borders, edges, and mixed shrubberies. However, its proclivity of growing in thick clumps makes it a great choice for attractive groundcover. This deciduous plant tends to rise in mid-to-late spring; on the other hand, in the autumn it provides colour through both its flowers and its foliage. It is this latter feature that makes dwarf varieties such as ‘Baby Blue’ and ‘Zwerg’ ideal for rockeries. ’Shell Pink,’ a mid-height variety with pink flowers is a top choice for a front border; the tall ‘Hakone’ cultivars in blue and white are equally fine choices for a rear border. However, each of these varieties may need staking, otherwise pinch the growing tip or cut it early on so that it is less lanky and more bushy. Many Balloon Flower varieties are excellent choices for potted plants and mixed containers for the patio and the porch. Plant Care In the UK these plants should be grown in full sun but part shade will do perfectly well. Soil Requirements Platycodon should be grown in a rich loam with little to no clay but with some organic humus or compost. Soil should drain very well – they grow best in soil with pH between 5.6 and 7.3. Overwintering Flowers should be deadheaded. After the plant has died down, cut off the withered foliage but do not cut the stem down to the ground. Before winter sets in, apply a good layer of organic mulch. Reduce the frequency and amount of water. Then, in spring, remove the mulch after there is no chance of frost. This plant tends to rise later in spring than other deciduous perennials. Take care not to disturb Platycodon’s fleshy roots in any way as they are quite delicate. An application of a balanced slow-release fertiliser once in late spring would be beneficial. You will invariably see the taller cultivars getting floppy, especially in late summer to early autumn. It’s not that the plant has gone leggy; it is simply a trait of the taller varieties. You can pinch the leader or growing tip to encourage bushy growth early on, otherwise stake the plant. Pruning Only the taller cultivars need pruning, especially those whose heights are significantly greater than their spreads, such as ‘Blaue Glocke’ and ‘Fuji Blue’. Either keep pruning such varieties judiciously to attain a compact form or pinch the leader or growing tip. Common Problems Platycodon are remarkably pest-resistant and disease-free. Snails and slugs like this plant so be vigilant for these pesky critters which are less of a danger and more of a nuisance. References 1. Platycodon. (n.d.). Pacific Bulb Society. Retrieved March 22, 2023, from https://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/Platycodon 2. Platycodon. (n.d.-b). Kew Royal Botanic Gardens. Retrieved March 22, 2023, from https://powo.science.kew.org/taxon/urn:lsid:ipni.org:names:5791-1
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Growing New Zealand Flax: 'Just Remember To Give It Space To Do Its Thing'
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Why Grow Phormiums? Phormium Varieties How To Grow Phormium Planting Phormium Care References Phormiums are two species of herbaceous perennial, grass-like plant, which can really make a dramatic statement in any garden. Though usually used solely as an ornamental plant in the UK, in other areas their long leaf fibres have been used as an economic fibre. In their native range in New Zealand they are known as ‘New Zealand Flax’, and the plants were widely used for textiles by Maori people and by early settlers.1 Phormiums are Phormium tenax and Phormium colensoi; to the Maori people, these are called, respectively, ‘harakeke’ and ‘wharariki’.2 “Phormium tenax is one of my favourite plants that can make a real statement in the garden,” shares Designer Jacquie Felix-Mitchell. “Just remember to give it space to grow and do its thing.” Overview Botanical Name Phormium Common Name(s) New Zealand Flax, Harakeke, Wharariki Plant Type Perennial Native Area New Zealand Hardiness Rating H4 Foliage Evergreen Flowers Inconspicuous tubular flowers Plant Out March, April, May Flowering Months July, August Though called ‘flax’, they are not closely connected to Linum usitatissimum, the plant known as ‘flax’ in the Northern Hemisphere. Both of these Phormium species, and the cultivars derived from them, are now widely grown as garden plants in many of the world’s temperate regions. And to a lesser extent, they are also still used for fibre production. Why Grow Phormiums? Phormiums are prized as ornamentals for garden use. These are large and dramatic structural plants which are valued for their striking long and pointed leaves, and the tall flower stems with yellow/green or muted red flowers born on mature plants in summer. Phormium tenax The sharp leaves bend down to create domes of arching foliage. These leaves are often striped or tinged with shades of cream, yellow, red or pink along their margins. Phormiums are drought tolerant once established, and make for a good choice for coastal gardens. They have no appeal for deer and rabbits, so can be used in gardens where these grazers are a problem. “The exotic feel of Phormium in a British garden can also extend to the wildlife visiting them,” says Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly. “Starlings and sparrows are partial to the pollen of the flowers and can cause a second glance because it leaves orange stains on the head of the feeding bird, making it look like you’ve encountered a new bird species!” Phormium Varieties P. ‘Yellow Wave’ There are a lot of cultivars derived from P. tenax and P. colensoi. The RHS has given an Award of Garden Merit to: P. tenax ‘Variegatum’ – green leaves striped with cream near the edges, reddish flowers. P. tenax ‘Purpureum’ – green/dull copperish/purplish leaves, reddish flowers. P. ‘Duet’ – green leaves variegated with cream towards the edges. P. ‘Sundowner’ – rusty green leaves with reddish pink edges. P. ‘Yellow Wave’ – leaves feature bright yellow stripes. Phormium colensoi subsp. hookeri ‘Cream Delight’ – leaves mostly cream with green edges. P. ‘Tricolor’ – yellow/green striped leaves, edged with reddish pink. As well as looking at the leaf colours and forms for the plants, it is also important, when choosing a Phormium, to think about size. The P. tenax and ‘Sundowner’ for example are taller specimens, which can reach over 2m in height. P. ‘Sundowner’ While others are much more compact and diminutive, some just over 1m or a little more in height. Hardiness Bear in mind that some Phormiums are hardier than others. Some are borderline hardy, and will suffer damage in winter where temperatures fall below -5°C. Others, such as ‘Purpureum’ can cope with -10°C or even lower temperatures than that. How To Grow Phormium Division, carried out in spring, is not just for the purpose of reducing overcrowding, It is also the easiest way to obtain new Phormium plants. Leaf fans, complete with roots, can be potted up and grown on. Larger divisions can simply be placed right away into a different part of the garden. From Seed Growing phormiums from seed is not for the novice – it poses something of a challenge. However, if you would like to give it a try, you can collect ripe seed and sow it in a propagator, at 18°C in spring. Be warned, however, the seed may grow into a plant that differs considerably from the parent plant. And you will have to be patient, since germination of these seeds can take up to a year! Most gardeners will simply purchase these interesting and exotic-looking plants, rather than going to the hassle of trying to propagate Phormiums themselves from seed. Fortunately, once you have one healthy mature specimen, division provides an easy way to increase your plant stock. Planting When To Plant Container-grown phormiums are available to purchase year-round. However, the best time to plant these is in the spring, after risk of hard frosts has passed in your area. When planted fairly early in the year, the plants will have time over the summer to become established before colder and wetter weather arrives in autumn and winter. Be sure to plant the phormium to the same level in the soil or container that it was sat at in the pot in which it came. Where To Plant Phormiums need a location in full sun, sheltered from prevailing winds. In colder parts of the UK they will need to be grown in a particularly sheltered spot – against a south-facing fence or wall, for example. In some colder areas, they may still need some winter protection. The soil or growing medium in which they are planted must be evenly moist yet free draining. These plants will not well tolerate waterlogged conditions, and do not like spending the winter in wet conditions. They are often ideal for a gravel garden, or for a large statement container. Where planted in heavier or less ideal soils, the area should be improved with plenty of good quality organic matter prior to planting. Phormium Care Watering Phormiums should be watered regularly over the summer during dry spells in their first year after planting. However, once established, these plants can be pretty drought tolerant, and will need watering only during very hot weather, or longer dry spells. Of course, plants in containers will need to be watered more regularly, and will be more prone to drought damage. Feeding When you are growing your Phormiums in the ground, it can be beneficial to add a multi-purpose organic fertiliser such as blood, fish and bone to the area after spring planting. Plants struggling with establishment may benefit from a mulch of compost or well-rotted manure. However, mature ground-growing Phormiums should not usually require feeding on an ongoing basis. Phormiums in containers will thrive if provided with an organic liquid plant feed from late spring through to the middle of the summer. Winter Care As mentioned above, Phormiums growing in colder areas, and in particularly cold winters, may need some protection against the cold. Mulching is not just for adding fertility – a thick dry mulch of straw or bark applied in winter can help protect the base of the plant. This should be laid around 10cm thick in autumn, before the first frosts, then removed in spring. In colder parts of the British Isles, it may also be necessary to wrap the top growth with fleece or scrap fabric if a hard frost is forecast. By far the most common problem people will encounter when growing Phormiums in the UK is damage due to hard frosts in winter. A plant can usually recover if only a few leaves have been damaged by winter cold. But if the damage has been more severe, the plants may be slow to recover, or may not recover at all. Keep the plant as healthy as possible and make sure it is in the best possible location to reduce the chances that something will go wrong. Spring Tidy-Up Phormiums do not need regular pruning, but older clumps will appreciate a spring tidy-up. Simply remove any old, damaged leaves. Pull or cut them off the plant as close to the base as you can; cut out old flower stems too – as low down as you can without doing any damage to surrounding foliage. If the clumps have become too large, do not heavily prune – instead, you can consider lifting and dividing the mature plant. References 1. Hindmarsh, G. (1999, April). Flax – the enduring fibre. New Zealand Geographic. Retrieved March 22, 2023, from https://www.nzgeo.com/stories/flax-the-enduring-fibre/ 2. Harakeke/flax. (n.d.). Department of Conservation. Retrieved March 22, 2023, from https://www.doc.govt.nz/nature/native-plants/harakeke-flax/
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Frost Tender But Remarkably Fuss-Free - Gazania 'Treasure Flower' Growing Tips
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Habitat & Growing Conditions How To Grow Gazania Gazania Plant Care Common Problems Buying Gazania References So colourful, so bubbly, so attractive, Gazanias are almost cartoon flowers! They are small, evergreen perennial plants that are frost-tender but are remarkably fuss-free and easy to grow. Bearing flowers in every hue of the warm spectrum, they will bring good cheer to any garden. Visualise the simple, innocent charms of the daisy with its wide-open corolla, ray florets, and disk-shaped appearance and add brilliant, warm colours laced and streaked with bright hues in other shades, and you’ve visualised Gazania, which is one of the ‘African Daisies’. These flowers also exhibit the charming habit of curling up for night and in overcast conditions. Evidently Gazanias like their beauty sleep! Overview Botanical Name Gazania Common Name(s) Treasure Flower Plant Type Perennial Native Area Africa Hardiness Rating H2 / H3 Foliage Evergreen Flowers Daisy-like flowers When To Sow February, March, April Flowering Months June, July, August When To Deadhead July, August Gazania is a genus within the Aster Family of daisy-like flowering plants and has 19 accepted species.1 There are a hundred-plus cultivars whose flowers exhibit vibrant colour-tones and dazzling designs, so to speak. Colours are predominantly in the warm range of the spectrum, ranging from yellow through red including pink. Perhaps it is because of the brilliant, jewel-like hues of the blooms that this plant is also called ‘Treasure Flower’. The size of the flowers, depending on the variety, ranges from 6-12cm across, with most falling in the 8-10cm range. The flowers are single or semi-double and, like Aster-Family flowers, many-petalled. These ‘petals’ are technically florets – ray florets – because the ‘flowers’ are actually composite flowerheads. What sets them apart from other members of the Aster Family is that many varieties either feature splashy radial striping on the petals or a central dark zone which is usually quite large and prominent. They typically start blooming near the end of spring. The cheery flowers and ‘cool’ foliage are components of what is a sporting, happy-go-lucky plant that is no trouble at all to grow and keeps free from pests and disease but attracts butterflies and birds like there’s no tomorrow. In fact Gazanias are so easy to grow that to all intents and purposes they grow by themselves, and so much so that they are – perhaps a little unfairly – classified as weeds in Southern California, Australia and a few other regions.2 Most Gazania varieties bloom between mid-spring and mid-summer though under the right conditions several varieties bloom right to the end of summer and sporadically in autumn. Habitat & Growing Conditions Gazanias are denizens of sunny, hot and dry conditions and they make do quite well in poor soils in their native habitat of Southern Africa.3 This should not be taken to imply that they should be treated without care but it does mean that they should not be ‘over-cared’ for; specifically, they should not be planted in rich humusy soils or manure, not be over-watered, and not be fertilised except, perhaps, very sparingly in mid-spring. In their native region, Gazania species grow freely in open woodlands, grasslands, scrublands, and semi-arid regions. These plants are invasive in favourable conditions, such as those outlined above. Another habitat it favours is coastal regions as it takes very well to salt-sea spray. Hardiness As most species hardy to H2 and most cultivars hardy to H3, Gazanias can be perennial plants in the United Kingdom with a lot depending on the specific region of the country and the spot in the garden that they are placed in. In the North / Midlands in an exposed location, Gazanias are grown as annuals. Down South by the sea in a sheltered spot, they can often be grown as perennials. In fact, Gazanias are particularly suited to coastal conditions where they also bring an ecological benefit as they control erosion in sandy and dune areas.4 G. rigens How To Grow Gazania Where you plant and how you ‘deploy’ Gazanias is strongly predicated on where you are located (in the United Kingdom) in that whether or not Gazanias can be grown outdoors as perennials. The cultivars of the Kiss Series are one H rating more cold-hardy than the species, unlike those of the Talent Series they are evergreen, and they are decumbent, mat-forming types. As such, they can be grown as a hugely attractive groundcover and can be used to great effect in mass plantings on embankments and slopes, especially in the southern, coastal areas of the country. G. ‘Christopher Lloyd’ They are also wonderful choices for growing in hanging baskets and balconies as their trailing habit will produce a cascading, ‘flowing’ effect. Clumping varieties that have a long blooming season, such as ‘Tiger Stripes’ are just as terrific for borders and edging, especially along walkways. They are also very fine companions in beds with statelier plants whose blooms would contrast strongly with those of ‘Tiger Stripes’ or other Treasure Flowers (though the plants’ different water needs would have to be managed). ’Tiger Stripes’ These little plants are great choices for a sunny windowsill or balcony. No matter which part of the country you are located in, Gazanias will make cheerful annuals be they grown in beds or pots. Gazania Plant Care Gazania is one of those rugged plants that may not respond well to TLC. Conversely, it will positively thrive if treated with ‘tough love’! Accustomed to the heat and sun of Southern Africa and acclimated to dry conditions and poor soil, Gazanias are very easy to grow and need little care as to heat and soil type. The only point on which they need care is extremes of cold as they are frost tender. Preferred Soil The optimal soil for Treasure Flowers is a sand-based loam that is not overly-rich with manure or compost. It must drain very well – these plants do not thrive in moisture-retentive soils. The ideal soil pH is from slightly acidic to neutral, though this plant will be content in soils with pH from moderately acidic to slightly alkaline. Aspect In the UK they should be located in full sun. Gazanias may be started from seed in containers indoors in winter, and transplanted outdoors or moved outside after there is no danger from frost. The advantage of potted Gazanias is that you can move them back indoors at the end of autumn. If they are kept toasty in a greenhouse or any warm spot indoors, they will survive the winter – however, they must get ample sunlight. Before transplanting or moving potted Treasure Flowers outside, they should be hardened by putting them out during the day and back indoors for progressively longer durations. Propagation Gazanias are just as easy to grow outdoors from seed, again after there is no danger from frost. You need do nothing more than push seeds just a tad into the soil and water them…and watch them sprout. You can also propagate this easy-to-grow plant from basal softwood cuttings. Take cuttings from late summer to mid-autumn and plant them in sand-based loam with additional compost or a potting soil in pots. They should be kept indoors or in a greenhouse through the winter but they must get sufficient sunlight. They can be transplanted outside in spring. Whether you grow or transplant Treasure Flowers outdoors, space them 50-70cm apart. “While Gazanias can be propagated by division, they have a tendency to become woody and less floriferous when divided,” shares Roy Nicol, a Master Horticulturist. “So, starting in the spring with over-wintered cuttings means fresh, vigorous plants which will flower well over the summer and into the autumn.” Watering Gazanias are drought-tolerant but not ‘damp-tolerant’. Sprinkle water moderately, even in summer – water when the soil has become dry and avoid over-watering these plants. In some rainy regions of the UK you may not need to water outdoor Gazanias for weeks on end. Pruning Treasure Flower plants do not need pruning except for regular deadheading. “It can be tricky to spot which flowers are spent when all the flowers are closed up in the morning and evening,” adds Roy. Therefore, it’s easiest to deadhead during the day when the flowers have opened in the sunshine – spent flowers don’t open, have long stems and can be pinched out. “Watch out for new flowers which also may not have opened yet but are close to the base and still with short stems.” G. ‘Big Kiss Yellow Flame’ However, if you grow trailing or decumbent varieties as groundcover or for a cascading effect, you should judiciously prune, and also train, the plant for shaping and landscaping. Upright or straggly growth should be removed and the plant should be trained and pruned to develop along the ground, or over and down the rim of a basket. Common Problems Gazanias are valued for being resistant to pests and for being disease-free. Occasionally a plant may be attacked by aphids or grey mould, particularly if it is brought indoors or kept in a greenhouse for the winter. Damp soils may lead to root rot. Buying Gazania The United Kingdom was one of the first regions in Europe where Treasure Flower was naturalised, and it remains one of the few countries in Europe where this plant is available at garden centres, if not very widely or in full variety. Potted plants are available, usually in spring, in garden centres and nurseries. Varieties of the Kiss Series and Talent Series are more widely available than most. A very good option is to buy Gazania seeds online. References 1. Gazania. (n.d.). Kew Royal Botanic Gardens. Retrieved March 16, 2023, from https://powo.science.kew.org/taxon/urn:lsid:ipni.org:names:331621-2 2. Gazania spp. (2017, March). Gazania Weed Management Fact Sheet. Retrieved March 16, 2023, from https://cdn.environment.sa.gov.au/landscape/docs/hf/gazania-weed-management-fact-sheet.pdf 3. Gazania rigens. (n.d.). Missouri Botanical Gardens. Retrieved March 16, 2023, from https://www.missouribotanicalgarden.org/PlantFinder/PlantFinderDetails.aspx?kempercode=a517 4. Gazania spp. Gazania. (n.d.). Eyre Peninsula Landscape Board. Retrieved March 16, 2023, from https://cdn.environment.sa.gov.au/landscape/docs/ep/EPLB_Gazania_Plan.pdf
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