Growing
Tarragon Isn't Always The Easiest Herb To Grow, But Works Well In The Right Conditions
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Why Grow Tarragon? How To Grow Tarragon Companion Planting Growing From Seed Planting Tarragon Tarragon Plant Care References Tarragon is a useful culinary herb to grow in your garden or indoors. It is not always the easiest herb to grow here in the UK, but this simple guide should help you understand it better – and to make the right choices and care for it in the right way if you want to grow it at home. Overview Botanical Name Artemisia dracunculus var. sativa Common Name(s) French Tarragon, Russian Tarragon Plant Type Perennial Herb Native Area Mediterranean Hardiness Rating H6 Foliage Deciduous Flowers Pale yellow When To Sow / Plant Out April, May, June, July, August Harvesting Months June, July, August, September There are two main types of culinary tarragon, informally known as French tarragon and Russian tarragon. French Tarragon A. dracunculus var. sativa, is a common culinary herb. French tarragon is considered to be the superior herb for kitchen use and it is one of the fines herbes of French cuisine. Russian Tarragon Sometimes considered a variant of A. dracunculus – botanically named A. dracunculoides – is considered to be weaker in flavour, but is better equipped to survive colder temperatures and tends to grow more vigorously. It spreads at the roots, thrives on neglect, and copes with poor soils and even drought. While not great as a culinary herb, Russian tarragon does have a range of other uses and is sometimes grown where French tarragon will not thrive. In the UK, French tarragon is usually the variety recommended for cultivation. This is a short-lived perennial herb which, though it will usually only continue producing for a few years, can be propagated for a continued supply. Why Grow Tarragon? Growing tarragon, especially French Tarragon, is a great choice for those who love cooking with their own homegrown produce and herbs. The aromatic leaves have a lovely liquorice or anise-like flavour and can be used fresh or dried for later use.1 Additionally, tarragon is notable for its ability to attract beneficial wildlife to the garden. It is also said to aid in repelling certain pest species as well as sheltering beneficial insects. How To Grow Tarragon Tarragon needs a warm, dry and sunny position, with well-drained neutral or slightly alkaline soil. It is most frequently grown in a dedicated herb garden alongside other Mediterranean herbs which enjoy the same or similar growing conditions like rosemary, lavender, marjoram, oregano, thyme etc. However, it may also be beneficial to consider placing tarragon (either in the ground or in containers) around the crops you are growing in your kitchen garden for beneficial wildlife attraction and organic pest control. Companion Planting Like other aromatic herbs, tarragon makes a great companion plant for a range of garden crops and other plants. Anecdotally, some have also traditionally believed it to enhance the growth and flavour of other crops grown close by – so you may also wish to consider growing tarragon in pots close to annual vegetable areas, or placing tarragon around the edges of annual beds. Tarragon is said to be a particularly beneficial companion plant for aubergines and peppers, though it could aid a range of other plants too. Growing From Seed French tarragon is a perennial herb that does not flower or set seed reliably, meaning it is not usually grown from seed. When seed for tarragon is sold, this is usually the inferior form of Russian tarragon. If you wish to grow French tarragon, you will usually purchase pot-grown plants in spring. These tarragon plants are usually potted up into larger pots filled with a free-draining growing medium, or they are planted out into free-draining garden soil in a sunny, sheltered spot. Planting Tarragon If you are growing tarragon in a pot, choose a container which allows for dry and free-draining conditions as the plants are said to taste better when not grown in moist conditions, in relatively poor soil. A terracotta pot is ideal for growing herbs which prefer drier and more free-draining conditions. Fill your container with a peat-free multi-purpose compost with plenty of horticultural grit. Make sure you place a crock at the base – and use a pot stand – to ensure that water can always drain away freely. Plant the tarragon to the same depth in this container as it was in its previous one. If you are planting tarragon out in your garden, be sure to choose a site where water drains freely, and where the tarragon will get as much warmth and sun as possible. Make sure that you avoid frost pockets, and any areas which become waterlogged – tarragon roots will rot in wet or heavy soils. Plant out in spring as soon as the weather has warmed reliably and frosts are well passed. Tarragon Plant Care French tarragon is not as easy as some other perennial herbs to grow. While it can be very tolerant of poor soils and free drainage, it can be fussy about other conditions and it is important to care for your plants correctly if you want to see the best results. Watering Though tarragon likes free-draining conditions, it is important not to let the growing medium dry out entirely, especially when you are growing tarragon in pots. Young plants, and plants grown in containers, will require more frequent watering than mature specimens and those growing in the ground. Make sure that you water regularly throughout the growing season, but do not overwater. Try also to ensure that plants do not stand in water during heavy rains, or suffer excessive watering, as this can cause the roots to rot. Pruning & Harvesting You can pick the leaves of tarragon any time throughout the growing season. The leaves will continue to come as long as the plant does not flower. It is good practice to cut back or harvest around half of your plants in around June for a continuous harvest. If you see flower buds emerging, you should nip these out so that the plants continue to produce their leaves. Pests & Problems Tarragon can be very popular with slugs, especially early in the season and when plants are young and small. Remain vigilant as you may lose entire plants to these pests if you do not catch them early. Pick slugs by hand to remove them, use physical barriers, and remember that the best way to control slugs in an organic garden is to entice plenty of their predators to your garden to keep their numbers down. Tarragon can also be susceptible to fungal infections like powdery mildew and rust. Avoid overcrowding, ensure adequate drainage, make sure you are watering correctly, and grow in cooler conditions to reduce the chances of these problems taking hold. Remove and carefully dispose of any affected plant material as quickly as possible. Winter Care French tarragon is borderline hardy, so will need to be in a sheltered position over the winter months, or moved under cover in colder areas. In colder areas, you can also consider protecting the plant with a cloche or horticultural fleece. The above-ground growth will die back each autumn, but new growth should emerge in the spring as long as the roots remained healthy over the winter months. Waterlogging rather than temperature is usually the main issue, so it is often a good idea to move the tarragon to an unheated greenhouse or cool porch, for example, over the coldest and wettest part of the year. “French Tarragon will not survive the winter wet in my garden,” says Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly. “I grow it in a pot and keep it in a cold greenhouse over winter, making sure to water very minimally whilst it is not in active growth.” Placing pots in the rain shadow of a wall or fence may also help. Propagating By Division French tarragon, as mentioned above, cannot usually be reliably propagated by seed – but once you have a tarragon plant, you can still increase your plant stock and ensure an ongoing supply of this useful herb by taking root divisions of mature plants. Remember, though tarragon is a perennial plant, it will run out of steam after a few years. Taking divisions is a good way to make sure you have new plants to replace the older ones. In autumn, take a mature, large tarragon plant in a pot. Remove the plant from its pot and saw the root ball in half. Repot one half, using fresh, peat-free multipurpose compost and grit, then divide the remaining half into a number of root cuttings. Cut off the top growth from your root cuttings, and prune off thin straggly roots so that each cutting can fit into a module or small pot. Take care not to do any damage to the main creeping rhizome which stores the energy for next year’s crop. Then pot up these root cuttings and water lightly. Label them, then place them in an unheated greenhouse, polytunnel or cold frame over winter before planting out the following spring. Tarragon is not always the easiest herb to grow in the UK, but it is worth it for those gourmands who want to grow all the fresh ingredients needed for their culinary creations in their own garden. References 1. Tarragon. (2018, December 17). FoodPrint. Retrieved March 24, 2023, from https://foodprint.org/real-food/tarragon/
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Growing Sword Lilies With Fred Miller From The Empire State Gladiolus Society
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Why Grow Gladiolus? Gladiolus Varieties Where To Grow Gladiolus Gladiolus Companion Planting Gladiolus Care Common Problems Division References Gladiolus bulbs are technically ‘corms’. Gladioli are beautiful flowers, which can look great in your garden, whether you grow them in the ground or in pots. In this article, you’ll learn when to plant the bulbs, how to plant them, and with what. We even interviewed Fred Miller from the Empire State Gladiolus Society to provide additional insight. “When planted deep enough, gladioli hold themselves upright and bloom as planned each season”, shares Fred, when asked why he is so passionate about these plants. “The many colours and sizes make them the perfect cutting flower to be used on their own in a vase or in an arrangement with other flowers”. Overview Botanical Name Gladiolus Common Name(s) Sword Lilies Plant Type Bulbs / Perennials Native Area Asia, Mediterranean, Europe, South Africa & Tropical Africa Hardiness Rating Differs by variety Foliage Deciduous Flowers Various Flowering Months June, July Plants in this genus, in the Iris family, are sometimes called ‘Sword Lilies’ and the name comes from the diminutive form of the Latin for ‘sword’.1 There are around 300 different species of Gladioli native to Asia, Mediterranean Europe, South Africa and tropical regions of Africa.2 Many species have been used in hybridisation, and now there are many, many varieties out there for gardeners to choose from.3 Today’s main hybrids used in horticulture have been obtained through the interbreeding of four or five different species. Gladiolus have sword-like leaves, and tall flower spikes with funnel-shaped blooms in a huge range of colours. They fell out of fashion for a time but are now making a resurgence. “Gladiolus is definitely making a comeback,” shares Colin Skelly, Master Horticulturist. “I like to grow some of the species, such as G. communis subsp. byzantina and G. murielae. “These are not very tall, so tend to stay upright without support and the flowers are striking without being overly blousy.” Why Grow Gladiolus? Gladioli are sometimes thought of as quite fussy and stolid as a garden choice. With a heavily floral scheme, they can sometimes create a rather old-fashioned appearance to a garden bed, border or pot. However, alongside grasses and lighter perennial blooms, they can look great and bring good contrast to a design. As well as looking good in beds, borders and containers, Gladioli also make very good cut flowers, to bring into your home. The flowers can bloom between March and August, depending on when they were planted, and which variety or varieties you are growing. You might be interested to hear that gladiolus flowers are also edible – you can use the mild-lettuce-like petals as you would use squash blossoms.4 With some varieties, the corms also have culinary uses and are considered a delicacy. Gladiolus Varieties There are a huge range of Gladioli to consider growing in a UK garden. “The many colours and sizes make them the perfect cutting flower to be used by themselves, or in an arrangement with other flowers,” argues Fred. Pink Gladiolus ‘Robinetta’ Some options to consider are: G. ‘Robinetta’ (recurvus hybrid) (AGM) G. communis subsp. byzantius (AGM) G. murielae (Abyssinian gladiolus) (AGM) G. italicus (Field gladiolus) G. papilio (butterfly sword gladiolus) G. cardinalis (waterfall gladiolus) G. tristis (evening flower) G. ‘Trader Horn’ G. ‘Charming Beauty’ G. ‘Belle de Nuit’ G. ‘Vera Lynn’ G. ‘The Bride’ G. ‘Happy Weekend’ G. nanus ‘Charm’ G. ‘Miss Green’ Of course, these are just some of the many beautiful options that you could consider growing in your garden. Where To Grow Gladiolus It is important to remember that Gladioli come from hot and sunny places – so it is important to choose a location in your garden where they will be able to enjoy a sheltered spot, with as much sunshine as possible. Gladiolus varieties can be grown in the ground in a sunny bed or border, or in a container, as long as moist yet free-draining conditions can be provided. Fred Miller explains that one of the most important factors in growing gladioli is that you buy and plant good quality corms. You can plant directly into the ground as long as there are fertile conditions and as long as the soil does not become waterlogged. If growing in the ground, be sure to add plenty of organic matter such as compost or well-rotted manure. In more northern parts of the UK, Gladioli are unlikely to overwinter successfully in the ground; it can be better to grow these in containers that can be moved undercover. However, you can also grow them in a border in summer and mulch heavily for protection, or you can lift the corms for winter storage. Gladiolus Companion Planting Gladiolus do not bring any particular benefits for other plants growing close by. But choosing the right companions for Gladioli can help you achieve an attractive display. In larger containers, for example, or in a bed or border, you might pair a number of different Gladiolus varieties. “We grow Dahlias,” says Fred. “The best part about dahlias is as you cut them, more new blooms grow, and continue throughout the growing season. We enjoy arranging them in a vase with the gladiolus.” Growing with zinnias might be another good option. You might also create a dramatic border with Gladioli and Foxtail lilies, or with Alliums, Verbena bonariensis and grasses for a lighter look. Gladiolus Care Gladiolus are not particularly difficult to care for if you grow them in the right spot. Giving them full sun and plenty of water are said to be the two most important factors for these plants. However, there are a number of other things that you have to get right to grow them successfully. Support One thing to think about is that most Gladiolus varieties will need some form of support. Usually, the plants will have to be staked before the flower spike emerges. Remember, you do not necessarily have to buy in your plant supports – you may be able to make use of branches or bamboo canes grown elsewhere in your garden. You should tie in your plants to your stakes to make sure that they do not flop over or become damaged as they grow. Watering Make sure that you water well during the growing season, especially when growing gladioli in containers. Just make sure that the water can drain freely, and the soil or growing medium is kept consistently moist, but not damp and waterlogged. Feeding For best results, feed your gladioli with an organic liquid feed while it is in flower. An organic feed suited to tomatoes will work well for gladioli too. For example, you might use a liquid feed made from comfrey for the purpose. This potassium-rich feed should encourage healthy and beautiful flowers. Common Problems Gladioli can be bothered by slugs, and also by sap-suckers like thrips and aphids. “Watch for thrips (and other pests) and be sure to keep them away from your plants”, says Fred. Taking care of wildlife in your organic garden, and boosting biodiversity can help keep pest populations under control. Make sure you attract slug-eating creatures, and predatory insects like ladybirds and lacewings to your garden to reduce the chances of these problems occurring. You should also remain vigilant, and remove affected foliage and blooms quickly when you spot an insect infestation. To avoid problems Fred Miller suggests that once the plant is done blooming, or cut, you should let the leaves grow for 6 weeks before you harvest the corms for the next growing season. Diseases Gladioli can be affected by a range of plant diseases including Botrytis Blight, Leafspot, Scab and more.5 Keeping corms healthy to avoid introducing these problems is an essential requirement for anyone growing these plants, insists Fred. “Most of us here in Central New York, USA are careful not to compost old mother corms or stalks. We either burn them or throw them out,” he says. Division Every few years, in autumn, it is best to divide mature Gladioli clumps. There are two main reasons for this – Avoiding congestion – when gladioli clumps become congested, the plants will be weaker, and flowering may reduce considerably. The plants may even stop flowering altogether. Propagating new plants – corms can be split from the clump to create new plants for a different container, or a different part of your garden. Gladiolus bulbs, or corms, can provide you with colour and interest in your garden over a number of years to come, as long as you place them in the right places and care for them correctly. All said, Gladioli can be a great choice for a long-lasting, beautiful garden. References 1. Origin and meaning of gladiolus. (n.d.). Etymonline. Retrieved March 16, 2023, from https://www.etymonline.com/word/gladiolus 2. The Editors of Encyclopaedia Britannica. (2023f, March 9). Gladiolus | Description, Species, & Facts. Encyclopedia Britannica. Retrieved March 16, 2023, from https://www.britannica.com/plant/Gladiolus 3. Chaudhary, V., Kumar, M., Sharma, S. K., Kumar, N., Kumar, V., Yadav, H. K., & Sirohi, U. (2018). Assessment of genetic diversity and population structure in gladiolus (Gladiolus hybridus Hort.) by ISSR markers. Physiology and Molecular Biology of Plants, 24(3), 493–501. https://doi.org/10.1007/s12298-018-0519-2 4. Daily home & garden tip: Fill edible gladiolus blossoms for a dramatic dish. (2011, April 30). The Oregon. Retrieved March 16, 2023, from https://www.oregonlive.com/homesandgardens/2011/04/daily_home_garden_tip_fill_edi.html 5. Gladiolus Diseases. (n.d.). Penn State Extension. Retrieved March 16, 2023, from https://extension.psu.edu/gladiolus-diseases
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Get The Most From Your Dierama 'Fishing Rod' Plants By Following These Rules
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Habitat & Growing Conditions Plant Care & Growing Tips Soil Requirements Planting Out Where To Plant Dierama Pruning Dierama Common Problems References One-of-a-kind Dierama plant hails from South Africa – but you may well argue that it comes from a Fairyland. From the midst of ribbon-like evergreen leaves rise wiry stalks that arc and sway. From these arcing stalks droop and dangle a row of delightful floral bells. The slightest waft of air sets these flowers nodding in a charming show of pretty colours and dainty movement. Dierama plants virtually growing wild in an English country garden Unusual, charming, and relatively little-known – that just about describes the Dieramas of Southern and East Africa.1 D. pulcherrimum and its various hybrids and cultivars are called ‘Fairy Fishing Rods’ or ‘Angel’s Fishing Rods’, while the other species, D. igneum, are called ‘Wandflowers’. The ‘Fishing Rod’ Dierama plants’ wiry stalks are usually 90-150cm long and tend to arc at a 30-60° angle and really do somewhat resemble fishing rods from which sprays of flowers dangle, droop, and delightfully nod away. Overview Botanical Name Dierama Common Name(s) Angel’s Fishing Rod, Wedding Bells, Fairy Bells, Wandflower Plant Type Perennial Native Area South & East Africa Hardiness Rating H4 Foliage Evergreen Flowers Often purple, pink or red When To Sow May, June Flowering Months June, July, August When To Prune March Many of the ‘Wandflowers’ have a similar habit and appearance while others have erect stalks and semi-erect flowers. Fishing Rod or Wandflower, this genus’s flowers are surely among the most perfect of floral bells and display elegantly tapered tepals. Depending on the variety, these bell-like flowers can be from 3-6cm in length. Colours include all shades of pink-purple from faint pink through mauve to purple, with white, yellow, and red flowers occurring on (only) a few varieties. Bell-like flowers drooping from arcing stems resembling fishing rods! Dieramas bloom very obligingly exactly through summer – from June to August. The flower stalks rise from the middle of a basal clump of elongated ribbon-like linear leaves rather like wild grasses. In most species this foliage is of a bluish-green hue. Both stalks and leaves emerge from fibrous corms which put out roots from the basal surface. Similar to bulbs and rhizomes, these corms function as stores of energy. Dierama is a genus of 44 species and belongs to Family Iridaceae with the Irises and Gladioli.2 Its varieties are evergreen perennials. The perfect floral bells of ‘Fairy’ Fishing Rods During prolonged freezes it may drop its leaves and ‘go deciduous’ but as long as temperatures do not plunge into seriously negative territory, the dormant corm will awaken in spring and push up new foliage. Habitat & Growing Conditions What Dierama species have in common is their love for sunny, open locations. Most species in their native habitat are found in savannahs and other grasslands, in rather indifferent soil, and even poor soil. For example, both D. pulcherrimum and D. pendulum often grow in gravelly, stony ground. Although in cultivation Angel’s Fishing Rods and Wandflowers are typically set by bodies of water, in the wild many species are highland plants. For instance, both D. robustum and D. dracomontanum grow at altitude, even on mountainsides, and frequently almost cover hillsides. Even in nature Dieramas do not tolerate waterlogged or damp soil and prefer well-draining ground. Only a few species grow in heavy soils. These plants are hardy to H4, making them just hardy enough in most (though not all) regions of the United Kingdom with tolerance to -10°C. Plant Care & Growing Tips Dierama plants need to be protected from three things: hard frost, heavyish soil, and shade. Fair warning given, D. pulcherrimum and its cultivars are rather more resistant to frost than some other varieties. Soil Requirements A loamy or sandy soil enriched with organic compost or humus with a subsoil layer of gravel or perlite would be perfect for Dierama. Most Dierama will grow quite happily in pebbly or gravelly soil. Soil pH should ideally be in the slightly acidic to neutral range, 6.1-7.3, though somewhat more acidic or alkaline soil will do. Soil must drain very well and the site should enjoy full sun. Planting Out In practice, Dierama varieties are often bought as potted plants and transplanted. You may also be able to buy corms from a nursery or get them from a friend. Corms should be planted from 7-12cm deep, in a container or in open ground. Be sure that the rooting side is downward. If potted plants are transplanted into open ground, do so to the same soil level that they are in the pot to preclude any complications. Planting or transplanting Dierama should be done in spring, and once done let it settle in its new home and do not shift it. Plants kept or grown in containers may be brought indoors during the winter and kept in a sunny spot. Dierama should be watered regularly only while establishing, as after this they are drought-tolerant plants. In winter they, that is the plants’ corms, should be protected more than ever from damp. These plants may be fertilised with a very limited quantity of balanced 10-10-10 liquid fertiliser or a small quantity of bonemeal or fishmeal in spring mixed into the soil away from the corms. Dierama corms will multiply vertically – they will stack one atop the other in a ‘chain’. Though they can be divided every year it is not a good idea to do so, as replanted corms can be slow to re-establish. Aim to divide Dierama corms about every four years – this should be done in winter or early spring. Where To Plant Dierama Dierama are wildflowers as such – their arcing wiry stalks and dangling, nodding floral bells create a whimsical appeal that is ideal for informal gardens and country gardens. Within that style, they look especially lovely beside ponds and brooks. If you go for this latter design option, be sure that the corms are above the water table – they must not be kept in damp soil otherwise they can rot. They are excellent choices for planting in containers to be placed on balconies, patio parapets, or alongside the exterior wall of your dwelling. The vigour of Dierama plants in containers should constantly be monitored; some varieties will do well enough in containers while others will not. Finally, they are ‘especially excellent,’ so to speak, for planting along walkways for obvious reasons! Dierama varieties are ideal for planting in indifferent soil, but which should be well-drained, in bare and unused patches of your yard. “As Dierama grows in grassland in mountainous areas and is drought tolerant, it is particularly suited to growing in those sunny, dry areas of a garden, perhaps against a south-facing wall,” says Roy Nicol, a Professional Gardener. “Grow it along with ornamental grasses such as Miscanthus, where the feathery seed heads will move in the breeze with the spikes of tubular flowers from the Dierama.” Pruning Dierama Dierama do not need to be pruned. You may deadhead spent flowers but their seed sacs are pretty in their own right. You may also remove any tatty or withered and browned foliage provided a sufficient number of green leaves remain on the plant. Common Problems Dierama are not known to suffer from any pests or diseases in particular. On the basis of prevention being better than cure, what is very important is to guard against ‘root rot’ by ensuring that the corm is not in waterlogged ground or in continuously damp soil. References 1. Dierama. (n.d.). Kew Royal Botanic Gardens. Retrieved March 15, 2023, from https://powo.science.kew.org/taxon/urn:lsid:ipni.org:names:20306-1 2. Dierama. (n.d.-b). Pacific Bulb Society. Retrieved March 15, 2023, from https://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/Dierama?setskin=pbs_greenish
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Expert Shares Feverfew Growing Tips For This Prolific Self Seeder
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Why Grow Feverfew? Feverfew Cultivars How To Grow Feverfew Feverfew Plant Care References Feverfew is an attractive daisy-like herbaceous perennial which can be both useful and attractive in a garden. It’s a good choice for a perennial border, or in the guilds of beneficial companion plants for fruit trees in your garden. To benefit your plants, and the garden ecosystem as a whole, feverfew can often be a good choice. Overview Botanical Name Tanacetum parthenium Common Name(s) Feverfew Plant Type Perennial Herb Native Area Balkan Peninsula, Anatolia and the Caucasus Hardiness Rating H6 Foliage Deciduous Flowers Yellow When To Sow March, April, May Flowering Months June, July, August Feverfew, Tanacetum parthenium, is a flowering plant in the Asteraceae (Daisy) plant family.1 It is a small perennial which grows around 50cm high, and has an eventual spread of up to around 50cm, with a bushy form. It has aromatic pinnately lobed ovate leaves and bears small daisy-like flowers with white petals and a yellow centre in the summer months. This plant is native to the Balkan Pensinsula, Anatolia and the Caucasus – but it is cultivated all over Europe and also common in other parts of the world.2 Why Grow Feverfew? Feverfew is an attractive ornamental plant that requires very little work, so it can be a great choice for a low-maintenance garden. Though relatively short-lived, feverfew is a perennial plant that will grace your garden for a number of years – and since it is a prolific self-seeder, if you allow it to go to seed it should reseed itself in an area and come back for many years to come. “In my own garden, I grew this plant from seed once about ten years ago,” explains Colin Skelly, a Master Horticulturist. “From the original five or six feverfews that were planted, many hundreds have since germinated, grown and set seed again. “Every year I edit the seedlings, keeping around 10% of them. If I didn’t do this the feverfew would very rapidly spread and dominate.” Further sowing will not usually be required as long as the plant is growing in a suitable location. Feverfew can bring several benefits while growing in your garden. For example, it is said to naturally repel a range of insect pests while in active growth (though it must be said that this may be anecdotal and scientific evidence is lacking).3 Some say that this makes it a good companion plant for a range of other perennial plants – you might also consider placing it close to a doorway or seating area to keep bothersome insects away. Feverfew also provides a range of yields which can be useful in the home and garden. Here are some pictures I took of Feverfew growing in the Glastonbury 2022 Permaculture Garden – a care and wellness garden run by Mike Feingold. Feverfew Cultivars In addition to growing the common Tanacetum parthenium, you can also consider some variants. Some popular named cultivars of feverfew include: ‘Golden Feather’ Botanical Name: T. parthenium ‘Aureum’ Bright lime-coloured leaves. ‘Snowball’ Botanical Name: T. parthenium ‘Snowball’ Puffy, globe-shaped flowers in pure white. ‘White Bonnet’ Botanical Name: T. parthenium ‘White Bonnet’ Double flowers in white with yellow centres. How To Grow Feverfew Feverfew is a quintessential cottage garden plant, and works well in informal and varied cottage garden-style planting schemes. It can work well in perennial borders, or in a dedicated perennial herb garden area. Due to its pest-repelling properties, feverfew may be beneficial for aphid control near roses, or be included on the sunny fringes of a fruit tree guild. Feverfew does require plenty of sunshine, so place it in full sun. It can cope with a location that is exposed or sheltered – but does not cope well with maritime exposure. Soil Requirements One of the most important things to remember is that feverfew does require a well-drained loamy or sandy soil, though it is relatively unfussy when it comes to pH and fertility. In fact, it can even be grown in or on a stone wall and can also do well in containers providing that they provide sufficient drainage. Sowing & Planting Feverfew seeds can be sown from March indoors, or direct sown in the garden after all risk of frost has passed, in April or May. Indoors sown plants are planted out between May and July. The seeds should just barely be covered, and it is important to make sure that the pot or seed tray does not dry out. Once the seedlings are large enough to handle, they can be pricked out into individual plants to grow on before you plant them out into their final growing positions. Companion Plants Feverfew can work well under rose bushes, and pairs well with hardy geraniums (cranesbill), clovers, and Cerinthe major, as well as a range of other traditional cottage garden plants. You can also grow it in a herb garden with other perennial herbs – such as those Mediterranean herbs which also like free-draining conditions. Feverfew Plant Care Feverfew is a very easy plant to grow and could easily take over your garden beds if you let it, due to the ease with which it self seeds. This is a great choice for those who do not have a lot of time to tend their garden, or who would like to quickly achieve a garden with an abundant look and feel. Watering Once feverfew is in its final growing position in your garden, it will be relatively drought tolerant and will only require watering in extremely dry conditions, or when it is grown in containers. The soil should be moist but must be free draining – it is important not to overwater your plants. Feeding Feeding feverfew is unnecessary, and in fact, this is a plant that can thrive in poor conditions. Deadheading Deadheading feverfew will prevent the plants from self-seeding prolifically. So if you want to keep these more contained, then deadhead the plants before seeds form. Alternatively, collect the seeds from the plant so you can control where you want them to go and plant them next year. Or simply let the plants self-seed for a more natural and low-maintenance scheme. Propagation If you want to make new plants from the existing feverfew plants in your garden, you can divide the plants as you would other herbaceous perennials to make new plants. However, it is important to note that divided plants do not typically live very long, so this is not usually very useful. Save the seeds to propagate new plants, or, as mentioned above, let them self-seed and let nature do the work for you. References 1. Tanacetum parthenium. (n.d.). North Carolina Extension Gardener Plant Toolbox. Retrieved March 15, 2023, from https://plants.ces.ncsu.edu/plants/tanacetum-parthenium/ 2. Tanacetum parthenium. (n.d.-b). Kew Royal Botanic Gardens. Retrieved March 15, 2023, from https://powo.science.kew.org/taxon/urn:lsid:ipni.org:names:252460-1 3. Agriculture | Province of Manitoba. (n.d.). Feverfew. Retrieved March 15, 2023, from https://www.gov.mb.ca/agriculture/crops/crop-management/print,feverfew.html
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Growing Hops With Mike Barker And His Specialist Nursery - Tips From A Seasoned Grower
IN THIS GUIDE Hops Overview How To Grow Hops Hops Plant Care Common Problems References Hops are one of the key components in beer and cultivating your own varieties can not only be a hugely rewarding endeavour in itself, but it can also help to unlock unique aromas that will set your flavour apart from others. While many gardeners might have you believe that growing hops is a challenging task, this climbing plant shouldn’t pose too many problems in the right conditions and with the right level of care and attention, especially if you’re already a seasoned horticulturist. In this guide, we’ve collaborated with Mike Barker, Owner of the specialist nursery Essentially Hops. “Strongly associated with Kent, hops are a herbaceous perennial which can have a substantial productive life,” says Mike. Every part of the plant’s annual growing cycle involves a high amount of physical and horticultural attention, which makes them a huge challenge to grow. “The crop is now a small minority crop in the UK, which means access to the right herbicides, fungicides and insecticides are very restricted. “Having said all that, standing in a hop garden that is close to harvest is one of my favourite places on the farm.” When divided into distinct stages the practice of growing hops should become easier and more achievable for anyone with the required levels of effort and focus. Hops Overview Botanical Name Humulus lupulus Common Name(s) Hops Plant Type Perennial Climber / Vine Native Area Europe & Asia Hardiness Rating H6 Foliage Deciduous Flowers Yellow When To Sow May, June Harvesting Months August, September Hops (botanical name Humulus lupulus) is native to much of the Northern Hemisphere – stretching from the UK and Spain to Siberia in the East.1 It is a climbing plant and uses long, flexible shoots known as ‘bines’ to attach itself to (and grow up) structures. Hops has been known to climb up to 6m in height – which can certainly pose challenges when it comes to harvesting season!2 As a perennial, it should return yields for many years once established (decades even) so it is a steady, productive contributor to any garden space. “I grow hops as an ornamental climber rather than for cropping,” says Colin Skelly, a Horticultural Consultant. “Planted next to a trellis on a shed, once it has reached the top it continues its climb up into adjacent trees. “This creates a verdant atmosphere in late summer and is cut back in late autumn once the foliage has died back.” How To Grow Hops The first step in growing hops is acquiring the rhizomes from which they’ll grow, as Mike shares. “Hop sets are usually sold as bare root specimens and are 2 years old and look small, but don’t be fooled, as they can grow into quite a beast and overwhelm neighbouring plants.” Rhizomes are harvested in March and April, though depending on your geographical location and the variety you wish to plant, it may make sense to pre-order your rhizomes as early as January. You should be aware that different varieties have many different characteristics, so spend some time reading up on the attributes of the hops available to you and make your selection according to your own preferences. Once you’ve acquired your rhizomes, you should remove them from their packaging, wrap them in a damp kitchen towel and store them in the fridge until you are ready to plant. Where To Grow In the meantime, you can prepare the area by selecting a corner of the garden which receives plentiful sunshine – so ideally, a south-facing location. “Hops will always do better if planted directly into the ground,” says Mike. “[These plants] need fertile and well-draining soil, preferably out of the wind but with good light. If you want to grow them in a pot, just make sure they’re fed and watered correctly.” Since hops are climbing plants, they’ll need something to support their growth. Most home growers prop a trellis or other support against the side of the house, then use twine to allow for different bines to scale it. If you want to grow your hops against a trellis or house, Mike recommends choosing the varieties ‘Cobbs’, ‘Fuggle’ or ‘Bramling Cross’ for the best results. In the image above, many twines have been attached to standing supports, though this arrangement is perhaps more suitable for a commercial outfit. Soil Requirements Once you have selected an appropriate location for your hop plants, you should aerate the soil to ensure it offers good drainage. While it is possible to use fertilisers to boost its nutrient content, it’s preferable to use good quality compost and plenty of organic matter to mulch it. This will ensure your rhizomes are happy and healthy. Planting Rhizomes You should look to plant your rhizomes in spring, after the winter has passed and there is no danger of another hard frost – since this could kill your plants before they have even taken root. On the other hand, avoid planting any later than May, as this could have an adverse effect on the quality of the hops you grow. Locate each rhizome at a distance of around three feet from its neighbour to allow it to grow independently and prevent the varieties (and their individual flavours) from becoming mixed together. Dig a hole between 6-12 inches deep and place the rhizome inside, then cover it with compost and mulch. When positioning the rhizome in its hole, try and orient it horizontally so that the buds will emerge vertically. However, if you’re unsure of what this means or can’t figure out where the buds are likely to sprout, don’t worry about it too much. Rhizomes will grow however they’re placed as long as they have access to the right conditions and receive sufficient TLC. Hops Plant Care The first shoots which emerge after planting are known as “bull shoots”. If you wish to encourage additional growth in your hop plants, you can trim these back immediately to enhance production. Having said that, it’s not a necessary step in the process and you’ll still enjoy great hops by omitting it, so don’t worry if you’re forgetful or lazy. By summer, you should begin to see a significant amount of growth from your rhizomes. Training Once the plant reaches over a foot in height, you should begin training the bines to climb the trellis. You can do this by wrapping the bines carefully around your twine or trellis in a clockwise (never anticlockwise) direction. You may need to continue training them for a few days consecutively until they grasp what they’re supposed to do – but from this point on, they’ll climb independently and at an impressive rate. “If your stems have very few laterals bearing cones, you can improve this with training, by selecting just a few shoots to grow in April or May,” explains Mike. Watering Hops are thirsty little plants and require frequent watering. In the UK, it might not be necessary to supplement the rainfall that most parts of the country regularly receive, though it certainly can be during the height of summer. Check the soil surrounding your hop plants regularly and if it’s dry to the touch, give it a good drink. You want to aim for a moist but not sodden consistency at all times. Mike Barker argues that it is also important that the plant has a good supply of Potassium – you can use a high-potassium feed to encourage good growth. Pruning After a couple of months of growth, it’s advisable to trim the leaves off the bottom three feet of the plant. This will prevent any bacteria or fungi in the soil from attacking your plant and inhibiting its growth. Other than that, hops should perform well enough when left to their own devices. Common Problems Mike argues you should keep an eye out for pests and diseases, particularly powdery/downy mildew, which is common with hops. “Other problems include Red Spider Mite and the Hop Damson Aphid. “Red Spider is very difficult to detect, as it is microscopic and often the web is the only indication before symptoms of attack occur. “You can treat with predators which is probably the best option for the amateur grower. “Aphids can be stripped off or treated with soapy water…Normal aphicides will not work.” Mike also implores growers to watch out for poor growth after the plant has been put in the ground, as the root system may be under attack from beetle larvae. Slugs are also said to love hop shoots and can be deterred with the usual methods. References 1. Humulus lupulus. (n.d.). Kew Royal Botanic Gardens. Retrieved March 17, 2023, from https://powo.science.kew.org/taxon/urn:lsid:ipni.org:names:303502-2 2. Growing Hops in the Backyard. (n.d.). Rutgers Cooperative Research & Extension. Retrieved March 17, 2023, from https://www.canr.msu.edu/uploads/234/71501/fs992%20Growing%20Hops%20Rutgers%20University.pdf
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Clematis Armandii Growing Advice With The International Clematis Society
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Why Grow Armand Clematis? How To Grow Clematis armandii Common Problems References Playing with vertical plants is a fantastic way of adding depth and dimension to your garden or outdoor space. When we think of plants and floral displays, our imaginings often centre on ground level. Flowerbeds at our feet where colours and shapes intermingle, competing and complementing each other to capture our attention. Occasionally a tall flower may stand proudly above the rest, but the majority of the visual interest is below our knees. It doesn’t have to be this way, though. You’re not restricted to ground-level displays. In this post, we’ll introduce you to Clematis armandii: a stunning evergreen vine with cascading white floral blooms that looks simply incredible, whether used as a backdrop or a centrepiece. Overview Botanical Name Clematis armandii Common Name(s) Armand Clematis Plant Type Climber / Perennial Native Area Central & Western China Hardiness Rating H4 Foliage Leathery, dark green evergreen leaves Flowers Usually white or pink, star-shaped When To Sow March, April, May, September, October Plant Out March, April When To Prune February, March Flowering Months March, April, May Armand clematis, or Clematis armandii is an attractive vine that spills forth with white flowers in spring and early summer, against a backdrop of rich evergreen leaves. The accomplished combination of colours and shades makes this plant a great fixture in any outdoor space, whether you’ve got access to soil or you’re limited to containers. The plant is native to China but has found fans all over the world, and its hardiness preferences suit it well to growth in British conditions.1 Incorporate this plant into your garden and we can assure you that you won’t regret your decision. It’s a pleasure to look at, easy to grow, and ready to combine with myriad other blooms. Why Grow Armand Clematis? There are a few good reasons to grow C. armandii. Firstly, it’s easy to grow. It’s not finicky, and you won’t find yourself outside in all weathers trying to desperately keep your plant alive. Just take care of a couple of requirements (which we’ll come to shortly) and you’re good to go. The second reason to grow C. armandii is simple: it’s beautiful. There’s something uniquely captivating about vines – the way they take vertical surfaces in their stride, playing with our expectations about space and how to use it. As your clematis becomes established and confidently asserts itself in your garden, you’ll come to love its vertical presence. Third? The flowers. These small white blooms that burst forth in spring are gentle and delicate. They’re a great advance party for the annual bloom, too, leading the way for all the other flowers in your garden. “Clematis armandii is both early-flowering and vigorous type that gives a good display and is generally scented, producing a fantastic aroma,” says Fiona Woolfenden from the International Clematis Society. How To Grow Clematis armandii Sowing “I’d really recommend buying clematis plants rather than growing from seed unless you have lots of time and are experienced in sowing,” explains Fiona. “Clematis seeds can take several years to germinate and will not necessarily be the same as the parent and may take several years to flower. “For example, if you want to grow Clematis armandii, then definitely buy a plant in order to get a good hybrid. “Seeds on the internet labelled clematis seeds often are not clematis at all, so buy from a reputable supplier or obtain from a Clematis Society.” Most people will choose to grow clematis from a cutting as this is easier and leads to a quicker flowering, however you can grow from seed. If you choose to do that, here’s how: Sow in autumn into seed compost with a little grit Leave in an unheated greenhouse or similar glass structure Pot in early spring, choosing a 9cm pot and upgrading to 12-15cm when established If you’re planting out your clematis seedlings, wait until they’re well established before transferring to the ground. Spring is the best time to plant out your clematis, regardless of whether you’re growing from seed or cutting. You can plant out through to autumn if you live somewhere with mild winters. Where To Grow The roots and feet of C. armandii should always be in the shade, whereas the higher parts of the plant will do best in bright sunlight. If you’re struggling to find a spot in your garden that meets these criteria naturally, you can cover the bottom of the plant manually. Simply erect a barrier around the base using any suitable bits of material. Planting As well as finding adequate light conditions, you also need to plant your clematis the right distance from the wall or structure it’s going to climb. The ideal distance is between 15 and 30cm: any closer and growth will be stifled, whereas growing further away will place too much strain on the young plant. When you’ve found a spot, dig a hearty hole for your clematis to go in. The diameter should be at least 30cm. Pop the plant in the hole and lean it slightly towards the wall or structure. This helps to orient the clematis correctly, giving it a better shot at taking hold. Container Growing If you prefer to grow plants in containers rather than the ground, you’re in luck here. C. armandii takes well to container growth if you take time to get the right soil. Look for flower plant mix, and make sure to use a pot with adequate drainage. Mulching the base of the plant is a good way to aid moisture retention, and doing so will have a noticeable effect on growth. To accommodate a growing clematis, choose a pot at least 40cm in diameter. You’ll most likely need to repot every couple of years to give the plant space to thrive. Fertilising Adding a little compost or manure when you plant out your clematis will encourage healthy growth from the outset. This plant doesn’t require frequent ongoing composting. Watering C. armandii likes regular watering, especially through summer. Take care to keep the soil moist and not over-saturated. As we mentioned previously, good drainage and a layer of mulch stand your plant in good stead to get the required amount of moisture. Pruning “Some clematis supposedly should never be pruned, such as C. armandii and C. montana types, but sometimes they just outgrow their space and you have to hard prune,” says Fiona. “I have a C. armandii type which is large in a small garden and I prune the left side one year and the right side the following year and this works just fine.” Pruning C. armandii can be a great way to keep it in check and encourage a fuller and healthier bloom next year. “It is sometimes recommended not to prune C. armandii back hard, but I have cut it back successfully too,” shares Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly. “Ideally, select a location where it can fully express its vigour and fill a large space, but for many gardeners with less space, the only option is to control the growth. “Cutting back areas on a rotation after flowering is a pragmatic way of keeping a good amount of flowers whilst keeping growth within bounds.” The plant’s early bloom lends itself well to pruning at the end of each season. Here’s what you’re looking to do: Prune in February or March depending on when your clematis’ bloom finishes Trim about 40-60cm from any stem which flowered Remove any dead wood “You can pinch out the clematis stems to make the plant bushier and get more flowers,” suggests Fiona. This plant requires very little care compared to some others and will bounce back well from overzealous pruning. This offers great peace of mind to less experienced gardeners who may be wary about taking the secateurs to their prized flowers! Common Problems Thankfully C. armandii is fairly resistant to disease, although you’ll need to keep your eye out for some hungry critters. “Sudden die-back can be an issue,” explains Peter Skeggs-Gooch from Thorncroft Clematis & Climbers. “However, it is very rarely true clematis wilt and is usually caused by something physical, like slug or snail damage on the stems. “If the damage is bad enough, it can cause the stem to die back, shrivel and go brown, resembling the appearance of wilt.” Slugs, Caterpillars & Aphids Obviously C. armandii is a tasty treat, as it attracts the who’s who of hungry garden visitors. If you see telltale holes in the leaves of your plant, one of these three pests is probably the culprit. For all, you can manually remove the offending insect from the plant, then apply some herbicide spray to discourage further visits, as Peter shares: “Cut out affected stems and improve support for the healthy stems from the soil level to the wall or fence they are growing on, as that way, they won’t crack and fall near the floor. Then you can try and prevent further slug damage.” Slugs are fairly easy to trap, and depending on how creative you’re feeling you have a few options (beer trap, anyone?). References 1. Clematis armandii. (n.d.). North Carolina Extension Gardener Plant Toolbox. Retrieved March 14, 2023, from https://plants.ces.ncsu.edu/plants/clematis-armandii/
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Growing Valerian: Useful For Filling Space And Adding Structure To Perennial Borders
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Why Grow Valerian? Where To Grow Valerian Companion Planting How To Grow Valerian Plant Care Harvesting Valerian Root References Common Valerian can be a great perennial to grow in a UK garden. Common Valerian is a herbaceous perennial native to Eurasia.1 It forms upright plants around 1.5m tall, and bears round clusters of small white or pink flowers in summer. Overview Botanical Name Valeriana officinalis Common Name(s) Valerian, St George’s Herb, All-Heal, Cat’s Valerian Plant Type Herbaceous Perennial Native Area Eurasia Hardiness Rating H4 Foliage Deciduous Flowers Small white or pink flowers When To Sow Indoors March Plant Out April, May Flowering Months June, July, August When To Prune February, March Deadheading Months July, August This plant is also known as ‘All-Heal’, ‘St. George’s Herb’ and ‘Cat’s Valerian’ – as well as by a range of other local names. This plant should not be confused with another wildflower and garden plant, called Red Valerian. While this can also be a useful garden plant, it is not the subject of this article. Why Grow Valerian? Valerian can be useful to add height and structure in perennial garden borders. It can also be useful for filling space, since it can self-seed readily if given the chance in the right conditions. Valerian is an attractive plant – but it is not just attractive to us – it also attracts beneficial wildlife to your garden. It is also worth noting that cats are attracted to Valerian (in much the same way as they are to catnip) so it can be a good idea to plant this in a certain area to keep cats out of other productive areas of your garden where you do not want them to be. Another reason that Valerian can be a useful companion plant is that it is a pretty good dynamic accumulator.2 The leaves of the plant are rich in phosphorus, in addition to other plant nutrients.3 They can be added to your compost heap, where they can aid microbial life and speed decomposition. In the same way as you might use comfrey tea, the plant can also be chopped and dropped as a mulch around plants which will benefit, or used to make an excellent liquid plant feed by simply adding the plant material to water. The thick tap roots of valerian can also help to break up compacted soil and improve drainage in heavier soils. Where To Grow Valerian Common valerian is H4 hardy, and can grow well in full sun or in partial or dappled shade. It will thrive in most typical garden soil types, though it prefers reasonably moist conditions. It is unfussy with regard to soil pH. Bearing these factors in mind, it can be a good choice for many gardens across the UK. Valerian can work well to provide height towards the back of a perennial border. It can work particularly well in more informal planting schemes, and wild, wildlife gardens. Since it likes moist conditions, it can be a good choice for the edge of a pond or stream in your garden. Since valerian attracts beneficial wildlife, including bees, butterflies and hoverflies, and thrives in dappled shade, it can also work well in a woodland garden, fruit tree, fruit bush or cane fruit guild, or forest garden design. It will be a good companion plant for fruiting trees and plants. One thing to note, however, is that you may not wish to grow valerian directly adjacent to a seating area, or a window or door of your home, since the smell of the flowers can be rather unpleasant up close. Companion Planting To maximise production in an orchard or garden, valerian is an excellent choice for guilds and companion planting. By drawing in pollinators and other beneficial insects, it can help to keep fruiting plants productive and healthy. Valerian will grow well alongside other herbs which can thrive in light, dappled shade, such as Alexanders, Angelica, Mints and Comfrey, for example. And these are all also useful in a guild or forest garden design. Good companions for valerian in a cottage garden scheme include many traditional cottage garden plants, such as Roses, Achillea, Daisies, Foxgloves, Hollyhocks, Geums and Hardy Geraniums, for example. Since valerian can also grow in full sun in moist conditions, it can also work well alongside other many other useful culinary herbs, perhaps around the edges of a vegetable garden, or in a dedicated herb garden area. How To Grow Valerian Valerian seeds can be sown in spring. However, you can also choose another means of propagation – you can take softwood cuttings in spring. You can also, at the same time of year or in autumn, divide existing Valerian clumps to form new plants. As a hardy plant, Valerian can be planted out in spring or in autumn. If you purchase a plant, this can also be planted out over the summer, though it is best to wait until the shoulder seasons to reduce transplantation stress. If you do plant out in summer, make sure that you keep your plants well-watered, especially during hot and dry periods. Plant Care Once the plants are established, Valerian is a great low-maintenance plant; it will require little care. Watering Mostly, this will just involve watering if the weather is dry. Remember, these are plants that like moist conditions. Cutting Back The only other thing to think about when it comes to Valerian care is cutting back. If you do not want your Valerian to self-seed freely then you should be sure to cut off faded flowers before the seeds are able to form. “Editing self-sown plants is a real skill that you need to learn if you like the dynamism that comes with a naturalistic style of planting,” says Colin Skelly, a Master Horticulturist. “Identifying seedlings is key to this way of gardening as removing seedlings avoids thickets of unwanted self-sown ‘weeds’.” However, in a wildlife-friendly garden, it can be a good idea to allow dead herbaceous perennial foliage to remain in place over the winter months before cutting back in the spring. Harvesting Valerian Root In late autumn, dig up the whole of the root. Wash the root thoroughly, removing the little fibrous roots from around the outside – the root can be used fresh or dried. To dry the root, place it undercover in an airy space. An outbuilding or shed is ideal, and you will likely not want to dry the root in your home, as, like the flowers (perhaps even worse) it gives off an unpleasant smell. Another thing to note is that unfortunately, the dried root can attract rats, as well as cats – so this is definitely something to bear in mind. References 1. Valerian officinalis, Common Valerian: identification, distribution, habitat. (n.d.). First Nature. Retrieved March 27, 2023, from https://www.first-nature.com/flowers/valeriana-officinalis.php 2. Valeriana officinalis Valerian, Garden valerian. (n.d.). PFAF Plant Database. Retrieved March 27, 2023, from https://pfaf.org/user/Plant.aspx?LatinName=Valeriana+officinalis 3. Valerian. (n.d.). Research and Extension: A Grower’s Guide. Retrieved March 27, 2023, from https://bookstore.ksre.ksu.edu/pubs/mf2632.pdf
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'Hesperantha Are So Often Overlooked' - Here's How (And Why) To Grow Kaffir Lily
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Common Varieties How To Grow Hesperantha Where To Plant How To Plant Watering Feeding Propagating Hesperantha References Hesperantha is possibly one of the best autumn flowering plants that can be grown here in the United Kingdom. Originating from Africa, it is a sun-loving plant which flowers from the end of summer until the first frosts, providing a wonderful late injection of colour into the garden. Previously botanically named as Schizostylis, it is also known as the ‘Crimson Flag’ or ‘Kaffir Lily’. It is a perennial plant (although pretty much evergreen) and is part of the Iridaceae family, along with irises.1 Overview Botanical Name Hesperantha coccinea Common Name(s) Crimson Flag, Kaffir Lily, Schizostylis Plant Type Perennial Native Area Southern and eastern Africa Hardiness Rating H4 Foliage Evergreen or semi-evergreen Flowers Often scarlet or pink flowers When To Sow April, May, June Flowering Months August, September Deadheading Months August, September The name Hesperantha derives from the Greek words hesperos and anthos and combined together simply translates as evening flower.2 Hesperantha are a hardy rhizomatous perennial with bright green sword-like leaves and elegant flowers. Schizostylis coccinea Rhizomes are essentially plant stems that grow horizontally under the soil with roots coming out from its nodes and as a perennial, they will come back each year. The flowers, displayed on stems above the foliage, are available in classic whites, soft pinks or bright reds and can flower for months on end from September into the autumn. “Hesperantha are so often overlooked and I fail to see why,” shares Master Horticulturist Peter Lickorish. “I don’t know many plants which will flower as reliably in November in my garden – especially ones which also have some foliage throughout the year and are generally trouble-free.” Common Varieties Many Hesperantha varieties are widely available here in the United Kingdom. However, be warned – they tend to fly off the garden centre or online nursery shelves, especially when they’re in flower and not much else is. H. coccinea f. Alba Produces rather elegant pure white flowers and grows to H0.5m x W0.4m. H. coccinea ‘Major’ AGM For a bright and vivid red – will not disappoint and will liven up any container or border during the autumn and grow to an eventual H0.6m x W0.6m. ‘Major‘ has been given the Award of Garden Merit (AGM) by the Royal Horticultural Society, indicating that it performs reliably well in the garden. All varieties are fairly vigorous and well adapted to our UK climate, especially in our milder regions and will bloom until the first frosts, which in some areas could be as late as December. Well suited to growing in either a border or container, it is also a great choice as a cut flower due to its straight stems, long flowering season and long vase life. How To Grow Hesperantha Hesperantha are relatively easy to grow and are great value for money, as being perennial, they will keep coming back year after year and are easy to propagate – producing plants for free. Best planted in spring as the soil is beginning to warm up and new growth appears, hesperantha prefer relatively fertile soil and room for their rhizomes to spread. With a hardiness rating of H4, they’re able to withstand temperatures down to -10C and will survive most UK winters without protection, in all but the coldest areas. In really harsh winters or if grown in frost pockets, plants can be protected with cloches, fleece or a generous mulch of straw. Plants may also be more susceptible to winter cold in pots, where their roots are above ground level. Where To Plant Hesperantha produces delicate and elegant flowers on stems protruding above their slender foliage and look great in an informal cottage, coastal or courtyard garden scheme. Given their African heritage, it is no surprise that they are happiest in warm and sunny spot, a south-facing situation is ideal. However, if you do not have a south-facing space don’t worry as they can tolerate a small amount of shade. When it comes to soils, they are fairly tolerant and will cope with any chalk, clay, sand or loam soil as long as it is kept moist. Despite this, they do not like a harsh cold wind, so a sheltered spot is necessary. As a clump-forming perennial, they look equally good in a border or a pot. The benefit if grown in a pot or container is that they can be moved under cover or to an unheated greenhouse during the coldest months, which may be preferable if you live in an exposed spot or frost pocket. How To Plant Hesperantha are most readily available as potted-up plants, which can be planted out at the same depth they were in their original pot. Online suppliers may offer rhizomes for sale, which can be cheaper but are not potted up. On arrival, the rhizomes need to be soaked in water for 30 minutes and then planted out or into pots with the shoots facing up, 10cm deep. If planting straight out into a border, then a minimum spacing of 20cm is recommended. Water well after planting and if growing from rhizomes try and be patient, as they may well take up to a year to establish before flowering. Hesperantha can be pretty much left to their own devices as they require little care over the year, apart from deadheading to extend flowering and removing the old tatty foliage and stems during winter. Watering However, during the hottest summer months it is important to water the plants regularly, as they prefer moist soil – which is not all that surprising since their natural habitats include African river banks and water meadows. Feeding Feeding is not strictly necessary, but a general-purpose fertiliser applied in spring wouldn’t go a miss, along with a good mulch of organic matter in winter. Thankfully hesperantha seem to be left alone by most slugs and snails and do not suffer too badly from other pests or diseases. They also appear to be rabbit resistant, a serious bonus for those gardening out in the countryside. Propagating Hesperantha As a vigorous plant, hesperantha can become congested over time and it is recommended to lift and divide plants every 2–3 years. Dividing Division is an easy way of producing new plants and even better – they are free. It is best done in spring when the soil has warmed up and new growth is appearing, but care should be taken, as Peter explains: “The main ways that you can let them down is by being too greedy with divisions. “I find the root disturbance of dividing them can prevent them flowering for a year.” Plants can be lifted and gently separated into smaller clumps, with 5–6 shoots on each. These can then be replanted elsewhere in the garden, potted up and grown on or given to family and friends. Growing From Seed Hesperantha can also be grown from seed, although when considering how long it takes and the time involved, it is no wonder that dividing is the preferred and easier option. To grow from seed, whether saved and stored or bought, it is best to sow in early spring in a moist and free-draining compost mix and covered lightly with vermiculite. Germination requires a temperature of 15°C and can take up to three months and so requires a lot of patience. H. coccinea ‘Marietta’ Once germinated, seedlings can be thinned, but left in place until the following year when they can be potted on and planted out. They do not like root disturbance, so regular repotting is best avoided. Hesperantha really are a great plant to grow in UK gardens – not only are they fairly hardy and reliable, but they require very little looking after and will provide months of stylish and graceful flowers to brighten up any garden during the autumn. References 1. Hesperantha. (n.d.). Kew Royal Botanic Gardens. Retrieved March 17, 2023, from https://powo.science.kew.org/taxon/urn:lsid:ipni.org:names:20362-1 2. Hesperantha coccinea. (n.d.). North Carolina Extension Gardener Plant Toolbox. Retrieved March 17, 2023, from https://plants.ces.ncsu.edu/plants/hesperantha-coccinea/
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Arum Lily: These Plants Will Thrive Growing In Moist Soil, But Often Need Winter Protection
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Habitat & Growing Conditions Where To Grow Arum Lily How To Grow Arum Lilies Plant Care Common Problems References The Arum Lily produces a flower that is simple yet chic, looking for all the world like a designer-sculpted piece in minimalist style. One attribute that is definitely not minimalist is the amazingly wide range of brilliant ‘popping’ colours this flower comes in. Not a true flower, the form comprises a one-sheet ‘scarf’ – the bract – wrapped around a bright spike – the inflorescence. Overview Botanical Name Zantedeschia aethiopica Common Name(s) Arum Lily Plant Type Perennial Native Area South Africa / Lesotho Hardiness Rating H4 Foliage Herbaceous or semi-evergreen Flowers White, funnel-shaped flowers When To Sow / Plant Out March, April, May Flowering Months June, July, August Whoever has seen an Arum Lily knows that it is not a ‘regular’ flower. It features a prominent central protuberance, wrapped around by a single long petal as if it were a scarf. They come in somewhat different dimensions and appearances and in quite a range of colour tones. In fact, that protuberance is a spadix – a spike that is actually an inflorescence of tiny florets. And that long, wrap-around ‘petal’ is the spathe which is a type of bract – a special raised leaf that is typically coloured and shields one or more flowers. What is called ‘Arum Lily’ is not really a lily at all. It is not even a member of the Lily family – Liliaceae – let alone the Lily genus – Lilium. The Arum Lily is a member of Genus Zantedeschia within the Family Araceae.1 Various species of the Zantedeschia genus are often interchangeably called ‘Arum Lily’ and ‘Calla Lily’, especially in North America. In this guide we refer only to species Zantedeschia aethiopica and its cultivars as ‘Arum Lily’. The species bears a flower that has a pure white spathe encircling a sunny yellow spadix. Cultivars produce flowers with spadices in colours ranging from creamy white through pale orange to deep purple and even glazed black, and spathes in hues ranging from white and pastel pink to deep purple and grey-purple to blackish hues. Habitat & Growing Conditions Z. aethiopica is native to the southeastern region of South Africa.2 It has been naturalised in quite a disparate patchwork of regions and countries on all continents (except Antarctica) including the United Kingdom. The plant inhabits all types of damp low-lying ground. It grows in fields and meadows by waterways and ponds, and even in swamps and marshes in its native habitat in (some provinces of) South Africa. In the wild it is not found in dry ground or in the highlands. Z. aethiopica itself and some cultivars are hardy to H4 which means that they are ‘just enough’ hardy in the United Kingdom and are best protected during the winter while most cultivars are hardy only to H1C – basically, not hardy at all. Where To Grow Arum Lily If you live in a region that does not suffer from frost or frigid winters, you can plant the species and those cultivars that are hardy to H4 in beds and, ideally, near ponds and any other waterways where these plants will thrive in the moist soil, though they would need winter protection. Because of its habitat preferences, this plant is a natural choice for water gardens; and because of its ‘flower’, it is a great choice for contemporary gardens and modernist, minimal-style gardens. “I plant Arum Lily for its leaves as well as its flowers,” shares Consultant Horticulturist Colin Skelly. “The foliage of the Arum Lily is exotic and can work with other foliage plants to create an exotic feel, particular around water. “Its flowers have an otherworldly quality to really catch the attention in summer, shining out in the partial shade that they favour.” The unusual ‘flower’ makes Arum Lily a top choice as a specimen plant to be grown in containers set by the doorway or on a parapet, some cultivars being more suited to such display than others. If you grow the tender cultivars in containers you will not only get an accent plant with a most unusual flower, it will be very convenient to overwinter indoors or in a greenhouse. Though the Arum Lily’s water needs are high, their sunlight needs are low, so they can make very attractive year-round houseplants. How To Grow Arum Lilies Although Arum Lilies can be grown from seed, the plants will not bloom until the third year so they are most commonly grown from rhizomes. Also, seeds require a consistent temperature within a very narrow range to germinate. Avoid growing cultivars with a hardiness rating of H1C in the ground, otherwise you will have to remove the rhizomes every autumn and store them indoors, making sure that they are kept damp. If you grow the H4 varieties outdoors then, in more regions of the United Kingdom than not, you will be able to allow them to stay in the ground through the winter; simply protect the rhizomes with horticultural fleece or a layer of leaf mulch. Planting Rhizomes of the H4 cultivars may be planted outdoors after the last frost has well passed. They should be planted about 10cm deep such that their eyes just ‘peek’ out of the soil’s surface. Space them about 40cm apart. Rhizomes of any and all hardiness ratings may also be planted in containers. Plant Care In most regions of the United Kingdom, sites with dappled sunlight will prove best through full sun or morning sun will also do nicely. A sheltered location facing south through west is preferable. Soil Requirements Soil should be of a rich and fertile type incorporating organic content, such as well-rotted manure or humus, in a loam that contains clay, silt, and sand. If your soil is lacking in clay or manure then amend it with vermiculite for water retention. Watering & Feeding Arum Lilies, especially during the growing season, should be watered well; ensure that the soil is consistently moist. Just before the start of flowering season, Arum Lily may be fertilised with a slow-release organic fertiliser with a balance of approximately 5-10-10. Otherwise fertilise it with a ‘regular release’ fertiliser, applied in moderation, every two to three weeks. Overwintering As mentioned above, the semi-hardy varieties’ rhizomes may be kept outdoors if they are protected by leaf mulch or a layer of fleece. Arum Lilies growing in pots may be brought indoors (or kept in a greenhouse) before winter. They can grace a room in your home in a spot where they get a few hours of sunlight or several hours of indirect light. If outdoor plants have not dropped their leaves in winter, cover them with a lightweight horticultural fleece. Pruning Arum Lilies do not need to be pruned. You may trim overgrown plants if they look unkempt. Any leaves that winter frost has blackened should be cut off. Common Problems Arum Lilies are quite vigorous plants. On occasion they may succumb to aphids and sometimes to thrips. Thrips are the more troublesome pests; any parts of a plant that show signs of a thrip infestation should be pruned and disposed off. Thrips can be treated with a combination of insecticidal soap, (diluted) Neem Oil and beneficial predators like ladybugs. References 1. Report: Zantedeschia aethiopica. (n.d.). ITIS. Retrieved March 9, 2023, from https://www.itis.gov/servlet/SingleRpt/SingleRpt?search_topic=TSN&search_value=42555#null 2. Zantedeschia aethiopica. (n.d.). Kew Royal Botanic Gardens. Retrieved March 9, 2023, from https://powo.science.kew.org/taxon/urn:lsid:ipni.org:names:89403-1
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