Growing
17 Vivid Flower Garden Ideas And Designs With Tips From Ann-Marie Powell
IN THIS GUIDE Top Design Tips For New Flower Gardens 1) Think Holistically About Flowers & Garden Design 2) Observe Carefully & Choose The Right Plants For The Right Places 3) Choose Flowers For Blooms Over As Much Of The Year As Possible Flowers With Functions: Integrating Flowers Into Garden Design 4) Companion Planting In An Annual Vegetable Plot 5) Perennial Beds Or Borders With Flowers, Vegetables & Herbs 6) Fruit Tree Guilds & Forest Gardens 7) Wildflower Meadows & Other Habitats 8) Rain Gardens, Ponds & Wetland Gardens Choosing A Location For A Flower Garden 9) Tips For Flower Gardens In Full Sun 10) Tips For Flower Gardens in Partial Or Dappled Shade 11) Soil Types & Soil Characteristics 12) Raised Bed Flower Gardens 13) Container Flower Gardens & Vertical Gardens Stylistic Choices In A Flower Garden 14) Design By Garden Type 15) Follow Moods & Themes 16) Consider Your Bed Or Border Shape 17) Embrace Colour & Form Combining Different Flowering Plants References If you are thinking about creating a new flower garden, there are many things to think about. In this article, we cover a range of ideas and designs to help you make decisions that will benefit your space for years to come. All gardens should have flowers, not only for visual appeal but to bring in wildlife, and deliver a range of other benefits. But it can be difficult to know where to begin when considering which flowers to grow, and where to grow them. In this guide, I’ve brought together some key ideas which will help you create a flower garden that you can really be proud of. Read on to find out our top tips, ideas and design suggestions: Top Design Tips For New Flower Gardens First things first, it’s crucial to make sure that you are thinking about your flower garden in the right way. Of course, it’s important that your flower garden looks good, but aesthetics are not the only consideration. No matter what type of flower garden you wish to create, and no matter where it is to be created, here are 3 important things to bear in mind as you make your choices: 1) Think Holistically About Flowers & Garden Design Many gardeners will start with flowers they like, and work from there to create their gardens. But to create a truly abundant and beautiful garden that will stand the test of time, it is important to work from broader patterns to the finer details. Consider specific individual plants but also the bigger picture. Ithink it is a very good idea to learn how flowers will work with other plants and with wildlife, and how flowers can be integrated into a harmonious design for the whole of your garden. “I’m constantly buying new plants, as I think of my garden as a living pinboard to constantly inspire me about what goes well together,” shares Garden Designer Ann-Marie Powell. “I’ve just recently bought lots of new irises, which I’m excited about because I haven’t grown irises for a while. “I also grow tons of annuals, like crocus, linarias and rudbeckias. If you can think of a plant, I’m probably growing it.” By thinking holistically about the process, we can find ways to add flowers in a garden which aid the function and improve the utility – as well as the appearance – of a space. 2) Observe Carefully & Choose The Right Plants For The Right Places New gardeners sometimes fall into the trap of choosing plants based on aesthetic preferences. However, new flowers for a garden should always be chosen with the specific characteristics of the garden in mind, choosing the right plants for the right places is the key component for success in any garden. Before you even begin to think about choosing particular flowers, you should spend some time observing the space, and thinking about the climate, microclimate conditions, soil – and any other characteristics of the garden in question. Matching up plants with the location and its characteristics is one of the most important jobs in a healthy organic garden. Choosing the right places to grow the flowers in your space is also essential. Again, this is often a case of matching up the requirements of the plants with the conditions which can be provided. 3) Choose Flowers For Blooms Over As Much Of The Year As Possible Most flowering plants fulfil key functions in the garden while in bloom. When they flower, they not only look their best, but also attract a range of beneficial wildlife to the space. Whatever other decisions you make about which flowers you grow and how and where you grow them, it is a good idea to make choices that mean you have flowers in bloom in your garden over as long a period as possible. This means thinking carefully about when different flowering plants are in bloom, and also ensuring that you aim for as much diversity as possible, in each month, and over the course of the year. Flowers With Functions: Integrating Flowers Into Garden Design Flowering plants can also have a range of functions in garden design. By considering the functional benefits that different flowering plants can provide, we can find numerous ways to integrate them into our gardens. 4) Companion Planting In An Annual Vegetable Plot One of the first interesting ways to integrate flowers into your garden is as companion plants in an area for annual food production. Both annual and perennial flowering plants can be extremely beneficial as companion plants for annual fruit and vegetable crops. Flowers like calendula, French marigolds, nasturtiums and borage, to name just a few examples, make wonderful companions in a kitchen garden. Flowers can, of course, attract bees and other pollinators. They can also attract predatory species which help keep pest numbers down and can potentially repel, confuse or distract pest species. It is also worthwhile remembering that a number of flowers can be edible in their own right. They can also provide other yields and be used in a range of ways (for beauty products for example) within your home. They might also be beneficial within a composting system, or be dynamic accumulators which help you maintain the fertility in your growing areas.1 5) Perennial Beds Or Borders With Flowers, Vegetables & Herbs When planning a food-producing garden, it is also important to consider the potential of perennial food production. Perennial beds and borders do not need to be flowers alone. Integrating ornamental planting with edible plants is a great way to create diversity and abundance. Flowers can also serve as companion plants within a perennial plant context and the flowers too can benefit from the various other plants included in such as scheme. “I don’t really grow vegetables so at this time of year, so I have a lot of bedding annuals on the go,” shares Sunil Patel, owner of the garden at 13 Broom Acres. “They are for the many patio pots and unexpected gaps in the borders. This year we’re trying to grow Zinnias and Cerinthe as well as our more usual staples of lobelia, calendula, bidens and mimulus. “I’ll also sow various perennials from seed that I’ll then grow on for sale either at Open Days or for the Plant Sale of our local gardening club. “We currently have delphiniums, thalictrum, evening primrose and Sisyrinchium, all from seeds collected in the garden last autumn.” Many herbaceous perennial flowering plants usually thought of as ornamentals can work well alongside interesting perennial vegetables and herbs. Those perennial vegetables and herbs can themselves be ornamental and may also be attractive flowering plants. Creating perennial planting schemes can be a great low-maintenance choice. Perennial schemes sequester more carbon, keep the soil healthy and of course, they’re also great for the wildlife which shares your garden. 6) Fruit Tree Guilds & Forest Gardens Of course, abundant perennial planting schemes need not only include herbaceous perennials, but also a range of trees and shrubs. Fruit trees and fruiting shrubs are excellent choices for many gardens, including my own. In order to achieve the best possible yields from fruit trees and fruit bushes, it is a good idea to create guilds, or diverse polycultures of beneficial plants around them – including plenty of flowers.2 “In my own garden the early flowering apples sometimes failed to be pollinated,” shares RHS-qualified Horticulturist Colin Skelly. “Since introducing more early flowering perennials into the space this has not been an issue as a greater number of pollinators attracted to the area. “The plants used include Pulmonaria cultivars (Lungwort), Erysimum cheiri (Wallflower), Digitialis purpurea (Foxgloves) and Dianthus barbatus (Sweet William).” A fruit tree guild will usually include flowering plants to bring in pollinators early in the season and while the blossoms are out – and to attract wildlife to reduce problems with pests throughout the year. Some other flowers will also work well as companion plants for fruit trees due to their dynamic accumulation, or because they are good at providing ground cover or suppressing competitive grass growth. Extend the idea of a fruit tree guild and you can create a forest garden, or food forest – a syntropic ecosystem with layered planting. Again, flowers play crucial roles within the different layers in a forest garden scheme. 7) Wildflower Meadows & Other Habitats The ways in which flowers are planted together can bring many benefits through the ways in which they bring wildlife into a space, and provide for and protect that wildlife once it arrives. As well as integrating flowers into food-producing systems, as mentioned above, flowers should also serve as the backbone for a wildlife-friendly garden. One of the most common types of flower gardens are wildflower meadows. Both annual and perennial types of wildflower meadow are a great way to protect endangered species and attract wildlife to your space.3 Flower gardens can help fill a number of ecological niches. As well as creating a meadow habitat, a flower garden might also include marginal pond planting, or a bog garden or wetland area, for example. Flowers might also serve as the under-storey in a natural woodland garden setting. 8) Rain Gardens, Ponds & Wetland Gardens As well as playing a role in food production and wildlife attraction, flowers in your garden might also be used in schemes designed to manage water more effectively. Rain gardens, for example, often include a range of flowering plants, which can cope with saturation in wet weather, and drier periods in the summer months. More damp-tolerant flowers are placed at the base of a basin dug for a rain garden, with other flowering plants around the sides of the depression, and drought-tolerant wildflowers around the outer sides. A flower garden might also be placed in and around the water to improve the function of a wildlife pond, or used in vegetated swales, for example, which help direct water to where it is needed, away from where it is not wanted, or which keep water around in the plants and soil in your garden. Choosing A Location For A Flower Garden Once you have thought about how flowers can be useful in your garden and how they can be integrated into an overall design, you should be one step closer to choosing your plants. However, before you dive straight in and start making your plant choices, you need to determine the exact characteristics of the area or areas where flowers will be grown. Will you be growing flowers in the ground? Will the site be sunny or shaded? What will the soil be like? Will you be growing in raised beds, or containers? How much space is available? 9) Tips For Flower Gardens In Full Sun Many flowers can thrive in full sun, and you will have an amazing choice of plants, no matter what other characteristics you are dealing with on the site. However, when designing a flower garden for full sun, it is important to remember that areas in full sun can get very warm in summer, and may be more exposed in winter. One of their key characteristics is that they will tend to dry out more quickly, so it is important to bear this in mind. I’d recommend that you choose plants that like the heat and that can cope with the drier conditions that are likely to prevail. Some good suggestions include nepeta, scabiosa, dahlias, agastache and salvia. 10) Tips For Flower Gardens in Partial Or Dappled Shade Not all flowers will enjoy full sun conditions, of course, and there are plenty of excellent flowering plants to consider for a garden in partial or dappled shade. Some can even cope with more deeply shaded conditions. When choosing flowers for shade, be sure to think about what kind of shade you are dealing with. Some plants prefer damp shade, while others are better suited to dry shade conditions. Aesthetically, some of the best choices for flowers to grow in shade include plants with white or pale flowers, which stand out well in lower light conditions. Plants with variegated foliage can also work well, and choosing varied plant form and textures can be important. Hostas, ferns, begonia and coleus are all good choices for shady spots! 11) Soil Types & Soil Characteristics A flower garden for one type of soil (clay soil, for example) will look very different to a flower garden for another (such as free-draining sand). As well as thinking about the sunlight and shade, exposure and water characteristics, it is important to understand your soil when planning a flower garden. Be sure to choose flowers which are appropriate for the soil type and its properties, and for your soil pH. If you have acidic or alkaline soil, it is best to avoid amending it too heavily. Instead, simply choose flowering plants which are suited to the soil conditions where you live. 12) Raised Bed Flower Gardens If you do wish to grow flowers which are not particularly suited to your soil in your garden – rather than amending the soil, it is better to consider creating your flower garden in raised beds or containers. Growing flowers in raised beds can bring a range of benefits. Raised beds can make things easier to tend, and may require less weeding.4 They can bring flowers level with seating height in an outdoors living area, or enhance the view from a window, for example. Raised beds can come in a range of shapes and sizes, and can play an important role in determining the look and feel of a space. 13) Container Flower Gardens & Vertical Gardens Those who are short on space can still create stunning flower gardens. Even if you do not have any space to grow in the ground, growing in containers and in vertical gardens means that you can still have a colourful, abundant, beautiful space. As long as you choose the right containers for the flowers you wish to grow, you can still include a wide range of plants in the smallest of spaces. Growing flowers in pots on shelving, placing them in hanging containers, or in planting pockets within a structure affixed to a wall or fence can help you make the most of your space. Remember, there are plenty of reclaimed materials you could use for such a project. Stylistic Choices In A Flower Garden Once you have considered the practicalities, thinking about flowers, their needs, and the roles they can play in your garden as a whole, there are still a range of decisions to make when creating a flower garden. 14) Design By Garden Type One thing to think about, when it comes to aesthetics and style, is the type of garden you wish to create. Flower gardens can be created to establish a certain type of garden. For example, you might want to create: An English cottage garden. A woodland garden. An alpine garden or rockery. A Mediterranean style garden. Meadow planting. Prairie style planting. A formal cutting flower garden. And these ideas are just the beginning. There are plenty of other garden types to consider, no matter where you live, and no matter how much space you have available. 15) Follow Moods & Themes Stylistically, you may also find it helpful to think about what mood or theme you wish to evoke through your layout and plant choices. For example, you might want your flower garden to be: Rustic and naturalistic. Calming and tranquil. Vibrant and energizing. Classic and traditional. Sleek and contemporary. Think about whether you would like your plant choices to fit within a certain theme or to evoke a certain atmosphere. 16) Consider Your Bed Or Border Shape Another key choice that can make a big difference to the look and feel of a flower garden is the size and shape of any beds or borders. Many gardeners make the mistake of thinking that flower beds and borders need to fit around the edges of the space. But sometimes, it can be useful to think outside the box, and bring flowers out to position them front and centre in the space. Remember, beds and borders can be created in any shape. Think about whether you want to stick to straight lines and hard angles, or make the space more natural and relaxed with curved shapes and flowing lines. Beds can certainly be square or rectangular, but they can also be circular, or have irregular, curving or wavy shapes. A mandala garden is beautiful way to bring artistry to a space – creating circular and flower-shaped designs picked out in different flowers and forms, for example. When thinking about the space used for beds or borders, it can also be helpful to think in three dimensions. You might create a spiral form bed for flowers and herbs, for example, which rises up towards the centre. You might stack raised beds in a range of forms, or, as mentioned above, create vertical gardens in a range of different ways. 17) Embrace Colour & Form Flower colours and the forms of different plants all add together to create the stylistic look and feel you are going for. Even when aesthetics are not the primary consideration, colours can be important. Remember that certain flower types and flower colours will be more attractive to bees and other wildlife than others. For example, bees will tend to be preferentially attracted to purple or blue flowers.5 Think about how colours can create different moods in your garden – cool and calming blues and greens, and hot and vibrant pinks and reds, for example. If you want a calming vibe, stick to a few colours. If you want something more uplifting, don’t be afraid to clash and combine a range of hues. Think about adding colours in drifts rather than placing individual plants and creating too frenetic a polka-dot style scheme. Combining Different Flowering Plants There are of course many things to learn about combining different plants in your garden, both for function and aesthetics. As long as you keep these basics in mind, and consider all the different ideas mentioned above, you should find it easier to create the flower garden you have been dreaming about. References 1. Zarro, G. (2020b, July 20). Breaking Ground with Dynamic Accumulators. Cornell Small Farms. Retrieved March 15, 2023, from https://smallfarms.cornell.edu/2020/07/breaking-ground-with-dynamic-accumulators/ 2. Finney, D. M., & Kaye, J. P. (2017). Functional diversity in cover crop polycultures increases multifunctionality of an agricultural system. Journal of Applied Ecology, 54(2), 509–517. https://doi.org/10.1111/1365-2664.12765 3. Forest Research. (2022, February 9). Wildflower meadow habitats – Forest Research. Retrieved April 3, 2023, from https://www.forestresearch.gov.uk/tools-and-resources/fthr/urban-regeneration-and-greenspace-partnership/greenspace-in-practice/benefits-of-greenspace/wildflower-meadow-habitats/ 4. Raised Beds vs. In-Ground Gardens. (n.d.). University of Georgia. Retrieved March 15, 2023, from https://extension.uga.edu/publications/detail.html?number=C1027-3 5. Reverté, S., Retana, J., Gómez, J. M., & Bosch, J. (2016, August). Pollinators show flower colour preferences but flowers with similar colours do not attract similar pollinators. Oxford Academic. Retrieved March 15, 2023, from https://academic.oup.com/aob/article/118/2/249/1741474
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Garden Speedwell: How To Grow These Upright Herbaceous Perennials For Summer Colour
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Why Grow Veronica longifolia? Common Named Varieties How To Grow Garden Speedwell Ongoing Care References Garden speedwell is a popular perennial, which can be a good choice for many UK gardens. Veronicas sit within the Plantaginaceae plant family, and cultivars within this species – commonly referred to as garden speedwell, or long-leaved speedwell – are among the best.1 Overview Botanical Name Veronica longifolia Common Name(s) Garden Speedwell, Longleaf Speedwell Plant Type Perennial Native Area Europe Hardiness Rating H7 Foliage Deciduous Flowers Purple-blue upright spikes When To Sow / Plant March, April, May, September, October, November Flowering Months July, August, September These are upright herbaceous perennials, growing up to around 1m tall, which have long flower spikes, usually with purple or lilac hues, though white and pink cultivars are also available. Veronica longifolia is found in Northern, Central and Eastern Europe to South West Asia, Mongolia, Korea and Northern China.2 It is one of around 500 different species within this varied genus, which also includes many other plants with the term ‘speedwell’ in their common names.3 Veronicas for gardens are generally divided into three main groups: Veronica longifolia belongs to the first of these three groups: herbaceous perennials. These plants are long-lived and die back each autumn before returning with new growth in the spring. There are also dwarf Veronicas, commonly referred to as alpines, which are great for rock gardens, and Veronicas best for boggy or waterlogged conditions, or shallow waters. Why Grow Veronica longifolia? Garden speedwell is well known as an excellent wildlife-friendly plant for gardens. It attracts and benefits bees, butterflies, other pollinators, and beneficial insects which help keep pest numbers down. “Veronica longifolia is often recommended for inclusion in planting schemes designed to attract pollinators,” says Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly. “It is also very attractive to humans too, but for the eye rather than for the pollen or nectar.” This can therefore be a great plant for those who wish to garden in an organic and eco-friendly way. This plant can be useful in companion planting, especially in perennial schemes and in fruit tree guilds – and it can look wonderful over a long period. It will typically bloom right through the summer months and often well into the autumn. You can expect beautiful blooms to attract pollinators and other beneficial insects from June right through to October. V. longifolia is a great low maintenance plant, which is relatively easy to grow and which will quickly spread to fill available space in the right setting, filling in beds or borders. Common Named Varieties Some named varieties of V. longifolia to consider include: ‘Alba’ ‘Blauriesin / Blue Giant’ ‘Blue Shades’ ‘Charlotte’ ‘First Glory’ ‘Marietta’ ‘Pink Shades’ Other Veronicas, such as V. spicata, V. gentianoides and V. austriaca can also be popular with UK gardeners, and some Veronicas like germander speedwell are common ‘weeds’ in lawns. How To Grow Garden Speedwell Veronica longifolia can grow well in full sun or partial shade. It is a hardy (H7) plant throughout the UK – it will thrive in most soil types as long as they are moist or moist yet free-draining, and can cope with most pH levels.4 This is a plant that will often look great in the middle or towards the back of a border with other perennial plants which like similar growing conditions. It can be grown somewhere sheltered or exposed but as a tall plant, it may need staking in more exposed locations. Sowing V. longifolia is fairly easy to grow from seed. Seeds can be sown from March to May, or from September to November in a cold frame or with some protection. Once seedlings are large enough to handle, they can be potted into individual pots, to be planted out in spring or late summer or early autumn if spring-sown, and in late spring if sown in autumn. Planting Whether sowing from seed, planting divisions from existing plants, or plants purchased from a garden centre or plant nursery, V. longifolia is planted out between June and September into its permanent growing positions. Spring and early autumn are generally the best times to plant for the most successful establishment. V. longifolia should typically be spaced at around 50-60cm apart, depending on the specific cultivar which is being grown. Companion Planting V. longifolia is a plant that, as mentioned above, will benefit many plants growing close by due to its ability to attract a range of beneficial insects to your garden. Over its long blooming period, it can protect fruit trees or other perennial plantings from aphids by attracting species which prey on them. It will also bring pollinators to food-producing spaces. In ornamental schemes, V. longifolia works well alongside many other perennial flowering plants such as: Agastache Monarda Nepeta Penstemons Salvias Verbena Other Veronicas Yarrow It also looks good in prairie-type planting schemes with ornamental grasses like Stipa tenuissima, for example. Ongoing Care V. longifolia, as mentioned above, is a great choice for a relatively low-maintenance perennial planting scheme. If placed in a suitable spot, these herbaceous perennials will look great for many years to come, bringing benefits to you, and the wildlife which shares your space. Watering V. longifolia should definitely be watered during establishment, but once established, rainfall should generally be sufficient. Watering will generally only be required during prolonged periods of drought. Feeding As long as a mulch of organic matter is added around perennial plantings, there should be little need for additional feeding in most circumstances. Replenish mulch in perennial beds and borders each spring to suppress weed growth, retain moisture, and provide slow-release fertility. Pests & Problems V. longifolia is not a plant which is typically prone to pest problems. In fact, as mentioned above, it can aid in pest control in an organic garden by drawing in predatory species. However, Veronicas can sometimes be prone to fungal issues like downy mildew, powdery mildew and leaf spot. Making sure that there is good airflow around plants, ensuring adequate moisture but not letting waterlogging occur, not letting the area dry out entirely and keeping good biodiversity in growing areas can help reduce their incidence and spread. Remove any affected materials as soon as you see signs of such problems to prevent their spread. Pruning Deadhead regularly throughout the blooming period for repeat blooms. Faded flowers on V. longifolia can be cut back after they have flowered in the autumn if neatness is desired. However, leaving dying stems in place over winter can provide habitat for wildlife like ladybirds to overwinter. Division Mature clumps of V. longifolia should be divided every few years in March/April, or in September/October. This can rejuvenate the existing plant and allow you to propagate new plants for your garden. As you can see from the above, V. longifolia can be a high-value and low-effort plant to introduce if you have suitable conditions in your garden. References 1. Speedwells (Genus Veronica). (n.d.). iNaturalist United Kingdom. Retrieved March 27, 2023, from https://uk.inaturalist.org/taxa/51611-Veronica 2. Veronica longifolia. (n.d.). Kew Royal Botanic Gardens. Retrieved March 27, 2023, from https://powo.science.kew.org/taxon/urn:lsid:ipni.org:names:812239-1 3. Veronica. (n.d.). Kew Royal Botanic Gardens. Retrieved March 27, 2023, from https://powo.science.kew.org/taxon/urn:lsid:ipni.org:names:30005997-2 4. Veronica longifolia | garden speedwell. (n.d.). Royal Horticultural Society. Retrieved March 27, 2023, from https://www.rhs.org.uk/plants/18847/veronica-longifolia/details
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Here's How To Get The Best Results When Growing Bleeding Heart Plants
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Why Grow Bleeding Heart? Commonly Grown Varieties Planting Companion Planting Bleeding Heart Plant Care References ‘Bleeding Heart’ is a popular garden plant in the UK, named for its heart-shaped flowers which hang from long arching stems, often in colours of pink, red and white. This well-known, deciduous garden perennial is known botanically as ‘Lamprocapnos’ and originates from North-East China and Korea.1 Overview Botanical Name Lamprocapnos spectabilis (formerly Dicentra spectabilis) Common Name(s) Bleeding Heart Plant Type Perennial Native Area East Asia Hardiness Rating H5 Foliage Deciduous Flowers Heart-shaped flowers – commonly pink or red When To Plant March, April, May, June Flowering Months April, May, June Informally, ‘Bleeding Heart’ is the name given to a herbaceous perennial, Lamprocapnos spectabilis, formerly known as Dicentra spectabilis, as well as a number of other species in the Dicentra genus.2 In this article, we will focus on the most common ‘bleeding heart’ grown in gardens: L. spectabilis. If you are already familiar with this plant then you will not find it difficult to see how it got its common name. Each of the flowers is shaped like a heart, with a single, dangling, pearl-like petal beneath. Though this plant is still often sold and referenced under its old name, this is now categorised as the only species within the Lamprocapnos genus. The first specimens of this plant were introduced from Asia to the British Isles by Scottish botanist and plant hunter Robert Fortune in the 1840s.3 Since then, the plant has become a popular plant for temperate climate gardens. Why Grow Bleeding Heart? Bleeding heart is most commonly grown for its ornamental appeal. The dangling hearts hanging from the stems are delicate and attractive, brightening up a partially shaded spot in a garden, bringing interest to woodland fringes or charming in more sunny borders. The plant is in bloom between April and June. Commonly Grown Varieties The typical L. spectabilis is fuchsia pink and white, though there are other cultivars. Bleeding Hearts ‘Alba’ ‘Valentine’ has red and white flowers – and an all-white variety called ‘Alba’ is also available. Both of these, along with the species type, have received an RHS Award of Garden Merit. ‘Gold Heart’ Another cultivar, ‘Gold Type’ or ‘Gold Heart’ has yellow leaves. Planting Bleeding heart can be planted in a sunny spot when sufficient moisture is available. However, it will generally do best in dappled or partial shade. It has a hardiness rating of H6 and will cope with a range of soil types and conditions. The most important thing this plant requires is a moist, fertile soil, with plenty of organic matter. A moist but well-drained, or even poorly drained soil can allow it to thrive. It can cope with other conditions but does best in soils with a neutral or somewhat alkaline pH. A sheltered spot is typically best. Bleeding heart is usually planted between March and June. Care should be taken when planting because the roots are brittle and these are plants that do not like disturbance. When planting, and developing a scheme for a certain part of your garden, it may be helpful to know that Lamprocapnos typically grows to around 60cm high, and has a spread of 45cm. If you only have a small garden, you may also be interested to learn that this plant can also be grown in a container as long as its environmental needs are met. Companion Planting Bleeding heart works very well in an informal or cottage-garden style space. “Lamprocapnos spectabilis is a bit of an all-rounder that can be used in different areas of the garden and with different styles to create different effects,” says Horticultural Consultant Colin Skelly. “I like to use in woodland borders in dappled shade, following on from early flowering perennials and bulbs. “I tend to use L. ‘Alba’ because it really catches the eye in a shady position.” Some other plants which work well alongside them include: Aconite Ajuga Astilbe Brunnera Digitalis Ferns Hellebores Heuchera Hostas Pulmonaria Lamprocapnos can also work well as under-planting for roses and other shrubs in a romantic cottage garden scheme. Of course, since they can do well in dappled shade, they can also work well around deciduous trees in a woodland garden. Bleeding Heart Plant Care Bleeding heart is a relatively low-maintenance perennial plant which will not require a lot of ongoing care. However, there are certain considerations to bear in mind: Watering When L. spectabilis is grown in dappled or partial shade, in suitably moist or damp soil, it should only need to be watered during prolonged dry spells. However, it is important to pay attention to soil moisture – especially if you are growing this plant in a sunnier spot, or in a container. If you are growing bleeding heart in a container, it is important to water regularly. Feeding Your bleeding heart will do best if grown in fertile soil, rich in humus. An organic mulch each spring should provide all the slow-release fertility required throughout the year. Since this is naturally a woodland plant, a mulch of leaf litter/leaf mould is ideal. References 1. Lamprocapnos spectabilis. (n.d.). Kew Royal Botanic Gardens. Retrieved March 20, 2023, from https://powo.science.kew.org/taxon/urn:lsid:ipni.org:names:995841-1 2. The Editors of Encyclopaedia Britannica. (1999b, May 27). Bleeding heart | plant. Encyclopedia Britannica. Retrieved March 20, 2023, from https://www.britannica.com/plant/bleeding-heart 3. The Editors of Encyclopaedia Britannica. (2008, August 14). Robert Fortune | Scottish botanist and traveler. Encyclopedia Britannica. Retrieved March 20, 2023, from https://www.britannica.com/biography/Robert-Fortune
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How To Grow Nepeta (AKA 'Catmint') - Known For Its Intoxicating Effect On Felines
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Why Grow Catmint? Common Varieties How To Grow Catmint Catmint Plant Care Common Problems References Catmint is a group of dependable perennials that can be a great choice for many gardens. Catmint is perhaps best known for its effect on felines, but cats are not the only garden visitors who can be intoxicated by this beautiful and useful plant. Should you choose to include it in your garden, you will soon see why it is such a popular choice. Overview Botanical Name Nepeta Common Name(s) Catmint, Catnip Plant Type Perennial Herb Native Area Europe, South-West and Central Asia Hardiness Rating H7 Foliage Deciduous Flowers White or violet flower spires When To Sow March, April Plant Out May, June Flowering Months June, July, August, September, October When To Prune October, November Catmint is the name given to a number of plants within the Nepeta genus, in the Lamiaceae family.1 The common name catmint is given to these species because of the effect they have on domestic cats. Nepeta cataria A chemical called nepetalactone in these Nepeta species affects the olfactory receptors of cats and makes them temporarily euphoric.2 These plants are usually herbaceous perennials, with tubular flowers often in lavender-blue hues. While the term catmint is applied broadly to a number of species within this genus, it can also be used to refer more specifically to Nepeta cataria, which is also referred to as ‘Catnip’. This is said to be the most aromatic catmint, but more ornamentally appealing species and hybrids are available for gardeners. Why Grow Catmint? If you want a perennial plant which will flower well over a long season (late spring to late summer), which makes a great informal edging or border plant, and which is great for wildlife in your garden, catmint can be an excellent choice. They are easy to grow and very low maintenance. Catmint can be used to attract cats to specific parts of your garden to keep them out of vegetable plots and other areas. It also attracts a wide range of beneficial wildlife, including butterflies, bees and other pollinators, and beneficial predatory insects which help keep pest populations down. This means that it can be a great companion plant for a range of common crops and other garden plants. Catmint is also commonly said to repel a range of insect pests, such as aphids and flea beetles, for example – and research shows it may help in holistic and organic pest control (at least to a degree).3 N. cataria also has a range of uses for us, beyond the garden. The young leaves can be eaten raw in salads or as a garnish and they have a mint-like flavour. Common Varieties There are several different species within the Nepeta genus to consider growing in your garden. These include: N. cataria N. cataria ssp. citriodora (lemon catmint) N. racemosa N. nepetella N. x faassenii (A hybrid of garden origin between N. racemosa and N. nepetella) N. subsessilus N. kubanica N. nuda Nepeta x faassenii How To Grow Catmint Catmint mostly prefers a site in full sun, though some species, like N. subsessilus will cope with light or dappled shade. Most Nepeta species will thrive in dry and free-draining soil, though N. kubanica and N. nuda do better on soil which is a bit moister. N. ‘Six Hills Giant’ Catmints are usually pretty tolerant of dry conditions, but cannot tolerate permanently wet soils – in such conditions, rot can set in. All catmints will struggle in deep shade. Where To Grow Catmint can be grown in a range of different settings in a garden – it can work well within a sunny herb garden, alongside other herbs which like sunny and relatively free-draining conditions. It can also work well as edging around a productive annual garden bed, along a pathway, or as edging for a patio or paved area. Alternatively, it can also be integrated into perennial beds or borders alongside other flowering perennial plants. In small spaces, catmint can also be grown in pots. “Nepeta x faasenii is a smaller hybrid that grows to a maximum of around 50cm x 50cm,” says RHS MHort Colin Skelly, “making it ideal for growing in pots where it will require a minimum of maintenance.” Sowing & Planting Catmint can be sown in March or April, and planted out in May or June. Pot-grown plants can also be purchased throughout the year, though the best time to plant these out is in the spring or autumn. You can also plant out in summer though it will be important to keep the new plants well-watered during dry periods until they have become established. Most catmints should be spaced anywhere between 30-60cm apart, though this will vary depending on the species and specific variety you have chosen. Companion Planting Suggestions In a herb garden, grow catmint with rosemary, thyme, marjoram, oregano, hyssop, sage, etc. You could grow catmint as a border companion plant around annual fruit and vegetable beds. Or, grow catmint at the front of a fruit tree guild to attract beneficial insects and potentially help with repelling certain pest species too. In perennial beds or borders, consider planting catmints with, for example: Agastache Lupins Astrantia Alliums Salvias Yarrow Verbena Hardy geraniums (cranesbill) and/or perennial ornamental grasses. Catmint Plant Care When Nepeta is placed appropriately, it is a great choice for a low-maintenance perennial garden scheme. Though it will flower and look good over a long period, it will take up very little of your time. Watering Newly planted catmint should be watered well during dry spells during establishment. After this period of time, the plants will largely obtain enough water from rainfall and will require little ongoing care. These easy-going perennials, when placed in the right positions, should take up very little of your time and will be a high-value addition to your garden. If you are growing catmint in containers, remember that you will have to water a bit more frequently than when plants are grown in the ground. Pruning & Cutting Back Nepeta flowers over a long period from late spring to late summer, but it is a good idea, for the best blooms, to trim them back after flowering, as this will keep the plant neat and encourage further flowering. Once the growth dies back in the late autumn, it is best, in a wildlife-friendly garden, to leave the remaining foliage in place until spring. The dead leaves are a hibernation spot for ladybirds and other creatures, so leave further cutting back until early spring so they have a good spot to overwinter. Division Catmint forms large, congested clumps over time, and flowering can diminish. To prevent this from happening, it is a good idea to divide the clumps every few years, once you spot a noticeable decline in flowering. Of course, division of mature plants does not just give the existing plant a new lease of life – it also allows you to propagate new catmint plants to give away, or place more elsewhere in your garden. Common Problems Catmints will usually be hassle-free and don’t generally have a lot of issues with pests or diseases. Cats which are attracted to the catmint may roll around on it and damage a clump, but will not usually destroy the plants altogether. Slugs can occasionally be an issue with young catmint plants – to prevent plant losses and keep slug numbers down, make sure you have plenty of wildlife that eats slugs in your garden. If necessary, keep an eye out and remove slugs by hand, or place slug traps if there is a severe problem. When the summer is very dry, powdery mildew can sometimes occur and you may see a white coating on the leaves and stems and occasionally, there may be dieback. If this happens, cut off, gather up and remove affected plant material as soon as possible to prevent its further spread. As you can see from the above, catmints can be a wonderful choice for a range of settings, and are a low-effort, high-reward plant choice for many sunny gardens. References 1. Nepeta cataria (Catmint, Catnip, Catswort). (n.d.). North Carolina Extension Gardener Plant Toolbox. Retrieved March 14, 2023, from https://plants.ces.ncsu.edu/plants/nepeta-cataria/ 2. Meet the Molecules – Catnip. (2020, September 11). John Innes Centre. Retrieved March 14, 2023, from https://www.jic.ac.uk/blog/meet-the-molecules-catnip/ 3. Catnip and Catmint. (2017, September 20). Backyard Gardener. Retrieved March 14, 2023, from https://cals.arizona.edu/yavapai/anr/hort/byg/archive/catnipandcatmint.html
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Planting And Growing Yucca: These Architectural Plants Work Well In Xeriscaping Schemes
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Why Grow Yucca? Where To Grow Yucca Planting Yucca Yucca Plant Care Hardy Yucca (Growing Outdoors) Tender Yucca (Growing As Houseplants) Yuccas are interesting, architectural plants which are grown as houseplants or outdoors in UK gardens. There are a number of different yucca types that can be interesting plant choices for UK gardeners. Tender yuccas can be grown as houseplants, in greenhouses or conservatories – while there are also hardier yuccas which can be grown outdoors in summer; some even year-round outdoors in the right locations. Overview Botanical Name Yucca (various sub-species) Common Name(s) Adam’s Needle and Thread, Spanish Dagger Plant Type Shrub / Tree / Perennial / Houseplant Native Area Americas & Caribbean Hardiness Rating Varies – some tender, some hardy Foliage Evergreen, spiky leaves Flowers Some have cream-white flowers When To Plant (Outdoors) April, May, June Flowering Months July, August There are around 40-50 species within this genus, which are notable for their tough, evergreen, sword-like foliage and tall flower panicles of bell-shaped blooms. Yuccas are incredibly adaptable as a genus, and species have evolved to cope with a wide range of climates and ecological conditions. Why Grow Yucca? Yucca is a popular plant for ornamental use in gardens (or as houseplants) because it has such a strong architectural form. Hardier types can add a dramatic accent to a suitable garden, while houseplants can be a great addition to interior décor. When in flower, yucca can be attractive to pollinators in a garden. And in warmer, milder regions, some varieties form fruits which are popular with garden birds. Where To Grow Yucca Hardier yucca (including Yucca gloriosa) are H5 hardy and can be grown in full sun in a south or east-facing spot, in well-drained chalk, loam or sandy soil. Yucca aloifolia and Zamioculcas The plants can grow in locations which are sheltered or exposed, but will appreciate being placed in as hot and sunny a spot as possible. Tender yucca, though they can be placed outside in a warm and sunny spot in summer, are usually grown as houseplants, or in a cool conservatory. Outdoors, yucca can work well in architectural planting alongside other spiky and architectural plants, to give a warm, sunny garden in the UK an exotic feel. Yucca also work well as climate-change-conscious planting in arid conditions, in dry climate planting known as xeriscaping schemes for more (or increasingly) drought-prone areas. Planting Yucca When choosing a yucca to plant, one of your first and most important decisions will be whether you would like to opt for a tender or a hardy yucca. You will need to decide whether you will grow outdoors in a suitable spot, or will be growing under cover in a container. If you are planting outdoors, make sure that you choose a spot with as much sun as possible, and where necessary, amend the soil to improve drainage before you place your new plant. Dig your planting hole big enough to accommodate the root system, with stones, gravel or grit for drainage at the base. Make sure the plant is rested at the same level in the soil that it was in its pot and that water can drain away freely. If you are growing in a container, make sure that this is of sufficient size to accommodate the plant you have purchased. And make sure the container allows water to drain freely from the base. Fill your container with John Innes No. 2 compost (or equivalent) with 20-30% added grit by volume to improve drainage. Hardy yuccas outdoors should usually be planted between May and September. Yuccas to be grown as houseplants can be planted up into new containers at any time of year. Yucca Plant Care Hardy Yucca (Growing Outdoors) Hardy yucca grown outdoors can be moderately low-maintenance plants, which, when placed in the right spot, will require little ongoing care. Water freely during dry periods in summer, but curtail watering in autumn and cease over the winter months. While you may feed with an organic liquid plant feed over the summer months, this is not usually required when yucca are grown in moderately fertile soil. Mulching around perennial plants in your garden each spring with organic matter can help retain moisture in a dry and sunny spot, and maintain fertility over time. Pruning is not usually required on most yucca. If they have multiple rosettes and do become too large or leggy in an area, you can prune rosettes with a sharp saw after flowering, before the end of August. However, to keep things looking neat you may also need to remove damaged leaves and spent flower spikes from your yucca in the spring. This is also true for young or tender yucca grown in containers/indoors. “Large Yuccas, such as Yucca gloriosa, can become multi-stemmed, and this gives the option to take cuttings,” shares Peter Lickorish, a Horticultural Consultant. “In mid-summer, after flowering, a rosette can be sawn cleanly from the trunk and the leaves stripped back to stalks for all but a few smaller leaves. “There should be some woody base growth and some of the leaf-clad growth on the cutting. Trim the top and tail of the cutting so it is no more than 18cm tall and place it to half its depth in a pot of compost. “You can even slice it in half lengthways if it is top-heavy.” Tender Yucca (Growing As Houseplants) Tender yucca are suitable for indoors cultivation, though pots may also be placed outdoors during the summer months. Water yucca freely over the summer months, remembering that plants grown in containers will typically require more water and dry out more easily than those grown in the ground. However, from the end of September, you should water yucca only sparingly. Water well, but only when the top 5cm of the potting mix has dried out. It is also a good idea to feed container-grown yucca with a balanced, organic liquid plant feed once a fortnight over the growing season, from April to September when growing in containers. If you have placed a container-grown yucca outside over the summer, make sure you move it indoors before temperatures fall below around 7-10°C at night. Move them indoors or into a cool conservatory where the minimum temperatures can be maintained.
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Ed Bowring On Growing The Statement Plant Colocasia And Resolving Common Problems
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Colocasia Plant Care Common Problems References For big impact and impressive and exotic foliage, Colocasia – or ‘Elephant Ears’ as they are better known, will certainly make a statement in the garden. With large and jungle-like foliage being all the rage at the moment, these plants are right on trend and look magnificent when grown here in the UK. Also commonly known as ‘Taro’, Colocasia are tuberous perennials that originate from South East Asia.1 A big impact plant, they can grow to nearly 2m tall and wide and will draw attention wherever they are grown. Producing large arrow or heart-shaped leaves, often with prominent veins running through them, they look so spectacular you just want to touch them! However, in this country, they tend to be grown for ornamental purposes, rather than culinary. Overview Botanical Name Colocasia esculenta Common Name(s) Taro; Elephant Ears Plant Type Perennial Native Area Central Asia Hardiness Rating H7 Foliage Evergreen Flowers White or yellow bell-shaped flowers when mature When To Plant May, June, July, August, September Flowering Months April When To Prune May, June Hailing from tropical Asia, it is not surprising that they prefer a moist and warm environment and can even be grown on flooded land, but can also grow well under certain conditions, here in the UK. Often used as a statement plant, they look equally spectacular when grown in a border or container and can suit a variety of planting schemes and styles. Colocasia Plant Care Originating from warmer climates, Colocasia does have some rather specific growing requirements – but this does not mean that they’re out of reach for gardeners here in the UK: Planting Outdoors They can either be planted out after the last risk of any frost, usually late around May to June, given a head start by potting up in spring indoors, or grown year-round as a house plant. Colocasia can sometimes be bought as semi-mature plants, but are more often than not bought as tubers. C. esculenta ‘Illustris’ To grow outdoors, colocasia tubers can be planted directly into the ground as summer begins. They are best planted shallow, in a warm and sheltered spot, with the growing tip of the tuber just protruding above the soil surface. “Colocasias are water hungry and thrive around the edge of ponds,” shares Colin Skelly, a Master Horticulturist. “I have grown Colocasia in a pond, with roots submerged but the crown about 5cm above the water level. “The plants thrived and the algal blooms that normally affected the pond in summer did not occur, probably because the Colocasia utilised the nitrogen and phosphorous in the water.” Water and mark with a label or stake, so as not to step on them by accident. As hungry plants, it is worth adding some well-rotted manure or garden compost to the planting hole to give the soil a boost. Water well on planting and continue to do so throughout the summer. Common Problems Slugs & Snails The young soft leaves of colocasia can be, unsurprisingly, rather tempting to slugs and snails. To give new plants the best chance, it is best to keep them when young in a slug-free environment where possible and only plant or move them outside when they are of a fairly substantial size. C. ‘Black Magic’ Slug and snail controls can include, picking off by hand, especially at night with a torch when they come out, using barriers such as copper tape or wool pellets and using traps. Encouraging predators including birds and frogs can be surprisingly effective as well. Glasshouse Whitefly Glasshouse whitefly can be a particular problem when growing colocasia in a greenhouse, conservatory or as houseplants. The sap-sucking bugs are 2mm long and thus visible to the naked eye and often leave behind a sticky honeydew substance. They are often not a problem on outdoor plants as the bugs prefer warm conditions. It is wise to check plants for whitefly from spring onwards, as a small number are far easier to control than a large infestation. Controls can include increasing ventilation where possible and quarantining new plants for a few weeks to check for signs of whitefly, before introducing them to a greenhouse or other houseplants. For severe infestations, insecticidal soaps can be used. However, with a short action time, they may have to be used repeatedly as per their instructions. Even though unlikely to be an issue with colocasia plants, sprays should not be used when the plants are in flower due to the danger to pollinators. References 1. Colocasia. (n.d.). Kew Royal Botanic Gardens. Retrieved March 14, 2023, from https://powo.science.kew.org/taxon/urn:lsid:ipni.org:names:331172-2
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An A-Z List Of 46 Popular Flower Types - How Many Have You Heard Of?
IN THIS GUIDE African Lily Bellflower Bergamot Bird Of Paradise Black-Eyed Susan Bluebell Broom Buttercup Butterfly Bush Carnation Columbine Chrysanthemum Crocus Daffodil Daphne Daylily Evening Primrose Forget-Me-Not Foxglove Gladiola Hyacinth Iris Larkspur Lavender Lilac Lily Lily Of The Valley Love In A Mist Marigold Mimosa Monkshood Moth Orchid Peony Peruvian Lily Petunia Rose Sea Lavender Snake’s Head Fritillary Snapdragon St John’s Wort Sunflower Sweet Pea Tansy Thistle Tulip Windflower References Have you ever been stumped as to the name of a particular flower in your garden or around your home? This alphabetical list of the most popular flower names from across the UK should help to set you right. Poets such as William Wordsworth, Bill Shakespeare and Samuel Taylor Coleridge have all but exhausted the English language extolling the virtues of a garden in full bloom. But all their words would be for nothing without the names by which we identify these handsome horticultural specimens. It makes sense, then, for any green-fingered devotee to learn the names of the floral beauties which catch their eyes. Not only does it greatly facilitate finding new additions to your outdoor display, but it also provides you with the vocabulary necessary to boast about them to your friends, neighbours and anyone else who will listen. “Where do I start when picking my favourite plant?” asks Gardener Alan Titchmarsh. “Japanese maples, peonies, old-fashioned roses, hostas, ferns and scented-leaved pelargoniums are all up there!” Without further ado, then, here’s a rundown of some of the most popular flower names from across the British Isles, with their botanical names included for an additional frisson of informational intrigue. African Lily Agapanthus Variously known as Lily of the Nile, African Lily or Agapanthus, this stunning flower comes in a variety of sizes and colours. Its versatility makes it an excellent addition to a border or container, while some strains are even evergreen. Bellflower Campanula As the name suggests, most bellflower varieties adopt a bell-shaped structure, though there are some which resemble flattened stars when in full bloom. They’re easy to grow and available in a range of hues, making them a popular choice across the country. Bergamot Monarda Easily distinguishable by its unique curving petals that grow tendril-like from the central flowerhead, bergamot has aromatic foliage that is often picked for use as potpourri. It enjoys an exceptionally long flowering season when deadheaded regularly, making it a great choice for an extended display. Bird Of Paradise Strelitzia The eye-catching blossoms of this native to southern Africa have earned it its deceptive moniker – as well as widespread popularity around Britain. However, its exotic origins mean it won’t tolerate night-time temperatures of below 10°C, so it’s really only suited to the conservatory or greenhouse in the UK. Black-Eyed Susan Rudbeckia With towering upright stems topped by bulbous flowerheads and starry petals, rudbeckias look great in borders, beds and containers. Annuals come in a variety of different colours, but perennials almost invariably take on the distinctive yellow mantle shown above. Bluebell Hyacinthoides A common sight in shaded woodlands or meadows across the UK, bluebells make for an excellent choice underneath trees or tall shrubs. Grown from bulbs, they demand little in the way of maintenance and dazzle with their blue blossoms in the springtime. Broom Genista Virtually synonymous with rugged Scottish landscapes, broom is found throughout the UK growing freely wherever the fancy takes it. It carries a faintly fruity aroma and makes for a pleasing addition to a border or as a standalone shrub. “The tree I can’t live without is the Genista aetnensis, which is the Mount Etna broom,” shares Garden Designer Jinny Blom. “It’s in flower in June and July, which is rare for trees and shrubs, and the smell is so amazing. It’s a light tree and doesn’t cast much shade. It’s quite weak-rooted but very tough. “It’s yellow in flower and the smell just fills the whole garden. I’ve always had one and the two that I’ve got at the moment I grew from seed.” Buttercup Ranunculus Hardy little critters, buttercups are found in meadows, marshlands and pastures across Britain. They’re also able to withstand the blades of a lawnmower, which means they crop up in domestic lawns, too. A favourite of children for their alleged ability to tell whether someone likes butter or not. Butterfly Bush Buddleja As an easy-going shrub that demands little attention but brings in pollinators by the shedload, buddlejas are a favourite among gardeners up and down the country. They carry a mild honeyed scent and are available in a range of colours, meaning it’s easy to tie them in with your existing aesthetic. Carnation Dianthus Although carnations are perhaps most commonly seen on the lapels of wedding-goers, they are a vibrant garden choice in their own right. With lush foliage and bright floral blooms, these semi-hardy perennials will make an attractive addition to any outdoor display. Columbine Aquilegia vulgaris Equally at home among the damp environs of fens and woodlands as they are on airy mountain slopes, columbines are cherished as a garden plant, too. The bonnet-like blossoms add a splash of colour to a border in summer, while they’ll also attract bees and butterflies to your property, too. Chrysanthemum Asteraceae There are few flowers more immediately recognisable than the bright and bouncy rosettes of chrysanthemums. Although they’re fussy plants which require handling with protective gloves – especially when dealing with “late chrysanthemums” – they will reward the effort invested in them with beautiful displays in late summer and autumn. Crocus Iridaceae Crocus generally blossom in late winter and early spring, bringing a dash of much-needed vitality to borders and rockeries at a time when everything else is still shaking off its slumber. Daffodil Narcissus Associated with the month of March, daffodils are spring bloomers that are among the most popular bulbed plants throughout the world. The distinctive trumpet-like structure of their blossoms is offset perfectly by the dual tones of yellow which characterise most strains. Daphne Daphne Though small in stature, daphnes are big on impact. Their diminutive clusters of delicate flowerheads are pleasing on the eye, while their delectable fragrance is a draw for the nostrils, too. Ideal for smaller gardens, mixed borders or even window boxes. Daylily Hemerocallis Daylilies are as lovely as they are short-lived. The clue is in the title: most species wither the same day as they bloom. With a wide range of colours to choose from, and repeated blossoms expected through the year, however, they’re still a hugely popular choice for any back garden display. Evening Primrose Oenothera A native of North America, evening primrose was first naturalised in the UK in the 1600s. It’s so named for the bright yellow blooms which only unfurl themselves in the evening, drawing drowsy bees and butterflies to wildlife gardens across the country. Forget-Me-Not Myosotis Perhaps the most romantically named of all the entrants on this list, forget-me-nots are a bold and vibrant spring flower. Their sizable green foliage serves as the perfect backdrop for the brilliance of their pastel blue flowers, hanging in the air like an unforgettably arresting cloud of petals. Foxglove Digitalis Characterised by spires of tubular flowers in pink, purple, yellow or white, foxglove plants are almost universally loved for their architectural and aesthetic appeal. Gladiola Gladiolus These impressive specimens hail from South Africa, western Asia and the Mediterranean, depending on the particular cultivar. With over 300 to choose from, you’re sure to find one which complements your existing colour scheme, though most Gladiola varieties grown today are modern hybrids. Hyacinth Hyacinthus The delightful star-shaped flowers of the hyacinth plant are crowded so tightly on their stems that there’s little elbow room between them. This, coupled with their pleasing aroma, is what makes them such a popular option in borders, pots or as cut flowers indoors. Iris Iridaceae Irises generally come in two varieties: those grown from rhizomes and those grown from bulbs. The former boast sword-shaped leaves while the latter are more lance-like in their structure, but both varieties come in a full spectrum of wonderful colours for their spring blooms. Larkspur With sturdy, upright stems and intensely bright flowers, larkspurs are a favourite for cottage gardens around the UK. Not only do they add dramatic height and colourful flair, but they’re also a magnet for bees and butterflies, enhancing the biodiversity of your outdoor space.1 They’re also easy to grow in containers. Lavender Lavandula This fragrant evergreen shrub from the Mediterranean is renowned for its calming qualities. It’s versatile enough to work as a hedge, wildlife garden or potted plant, depending on the variety selected. For the most easily-maintained results, choose a hardy or half-hardy cultivar. Lilac Syringa Available as both a shrub and a tree, lilac is a classic staple of gardens all over Britain. Its versatility means it can work equally well in a container as it can in the ground, while its soft pastel tones and subtle fragrance bring a touch of elegance and class to any environment. Lily Lilium Instantly recognisable by their distinctive trumpet-shaped flowers, lilies are a positively charming addition to any garden. There are an extensive number of varieties available, some of which are capable of exceeding 6m in height, so be prepared for that eventuality when selecting your specimen. Lily Of The Valley Convallaria majalis By contrast, lily of the valley is a humble spreader which won’t get ideas above its station, making it an excellent choice for ground cover. The dainty hanging flowers and the intoxicating aroma mean that it’s popular throughout the British Isles. Love In A Mist Nigella This imaginatively titled flower is almost as impressive to look at as its moniker suggests. With fanned blue petals sitting atop a bed of spiky green fronds and presenting intricately shaped stamen, it’s an eye-catcher for sure. A native of Mediterranean and North African climes, it’s taken to the British weather remarkably well and requires little in the way of maintenance. Marigold Calendula These cheerful annuals are hardy enough and will tolerate mild frosts, before bursting into life in summer with their bold and vivid blooms. The flowers of marigolds are edible and are often used as a garnish for salads, cocktails and other culinary concoctions.2 Mimosa Acacia Originally from Australia, mimosas are available as trees, shrubs and climbers, though the former is the most commonly found variety in the UK. When planting, make sure you have enough space to accommodate your tree, since some strains can grow up to 12m in height and a similar spread. Monkshood Aconitum Also known as wolf’s bane, this plant is a close relative of larkspur. It’s a beautiful plant to include in your garden display. Moth Orchid Phalaenopsis One of the most readily available types of orchid in the UK, moth orchids are particular about the climatic conditions of their surroundings. For that reason, they’re generally an indoor plant in Britain, but there is a wide array of varieties available in all shapes and sizes, so you’re sure to find one that complements the feng shui of your home. Peony Paeonia With some varieties offering blooms the size of dinner plates, peonies are among the most ostentatious garden flowers available. They generally come as herbaceous (which die away in winter) or tree (which maintain their upright demeanour but lose their flowers and foliage), though a hybrid of both is less commonly found, too. Peruvian Lily Alstroemeria As the name suggests, Peruvian lilies hail from South America. But despite their exotic origins, they cope with the British climate remarkably well and most gardeners find them both hardy and easy to grow. They come in a wide variety of colours and styles, all of which make for excellent cut flowers as well as garden additions. Petunia Solanaceae Another native of South America, petunias don’t handle British frosts quite as impressively as Peruvian lilies. Nonetheless, they remain a popular choice due to their knack for consistently creating a colourful bed of blossoms during the summer months. Lots of colours and flower shapes to choose from. Rose Rosaceae This far-reaching family of plants contains more than 3,000 members, including well-loved fruits such as apples, raspberries and strawberries. But it’s the humble rose which steals the majority of the headlines, of course, in part thanks to the scribblings of the Bard and his brethren. By any other name, it would still smell as sweet – but would it still be a rose?3 Sea Lavender Limonium The foliage of sea lavender is almost as big a draw as its flowers, given that many varieties will change colour throughout the year. Having said that, it’s certainly the papery petals of its flowerheads which steal the show in midsummer, while they also hold their colour and fragrance remarkably well when cut, making them an ideal choice for bringing indoors, too. Snake’s Head Fritillary Fritillaria meleagris One glance at the blooms of this unique plant will leave you in no doubt as to why it has earned its common name. Not only are the shape of its petals reminiscent of a viper’s head, but all varieties, regardless of their particular colour, carry an unmistakably checked pattern that recalls the mottled skin of a slithering snake. Snapdragon Antirrhinum Easy to grow and guaranteed to add a splash of colour and architectural intrigue, snapdragons are favourites among old-fashioned cottage garden aesthetics. Their flowering period is more prolonged than many of their counterparts, with blossoms (and the bees and butterflies they attract) going the distance from early June until late October. St John’s Wort Hypericum One of the most versatile flowers on this list, St John’s wort can be evergreen or deciduous, annual or perennial and a shrub or a tree. Whichever you opt for, you can expect showy yellow flowers that are revered for their aesthetic qualities. Sunflower Helianthus Their easy-going nature, oversized stature and iconic flowerheads make sunflowers an ideal growing project with younger members of the household. Although they are famously associated with brown and yellow blooms, there are other varieties that offer green, white and red flowers, too. Sweet Pea Lathyrus Sweet peas are just as effective as border plants as they are terms of endearment. Although they don’t bear any edible produce, they do boast colourful blooms in a range of colours and look especially impressive when several tones are combined in a single display. They also have a powerful and pleasing fragrance, too, with even just one vase of cut sweet peas enough to perfume a room. Tansy Tanacetum The bulbous, button-like flowerheads of the tansy plant, with their unmistakable yellow colouring, have meant they have been incorporated into many a decorative garden display. Thistle This iconic flower is the symbol of Scotland and is found growing freely throughout the wild verges, meadows and grasslands of that nation. But despite their feral nature and their prickly texture, many varieties have been adapted for inclusion in a contemporary garden display. Tulip Tulipa Tulips are intrinsically linked to the feelings of rebirth and revitalisation of springtime. Although technically a perennial plant, many modern hybrids have been over-engineered to achieve the best aesthetic result – but at the cost of longevity, with reliable blooms in consecutive years few and far between.4 For that reason, many gardeners simply replant tulip bulbs every autumn to ensure strong output. Windflower Anemone Windflowers are one of the few entrants on this list that is perhaps more recognisable by its Latin name than its common counterpart. “Commonly known as Japanese Anemone, Anemone hupehensis is a late summer and early autumn flowering perennial that is a popular garden plant in the UK and is not to be confused with the early spring flowering Wood Anemone,” shares Horticultural Consultant Colin Skelly. They are forest flowers that bloom in spring and hibernate for all the other seasons, before coming back just as strongly the following year. References 1. How to attract bumblebees to your garden. (n.d.). The Wildlife Trusts. Retrieved March 23, 2023, from https://www.wildlifetrusts.org/actions/how-attract-bumblebees-your-garden 2. Marigold Uses in the Garden and on the Table. (1983, July 1). Mother Earth News – the Original Guide to Living Wisely. Retrieved March 23, 2023, from https://www.motherearthnews.com/organic-gardening/marigold-uses-zmaz83jazshe/ 3. ‘A Rose By Any Other Name’, Meaning & Context. (2020, October 7). No Sweat Shakespeare. Retrieved March 23, 2023, from https://nosweatshakespeare.com/quotes/famous/rose-by-any-other-name/ 4. Gilmer, M. (2019, April 27). The twisted, mutated history of the beautiful tulip. Palm Springs Desert Sun. Retrieved March 23, 2023, from https://eu.desertsun.com/story/life/home-garden/maureen-gilmer/2019/04/27/twisted-mutated-history-beautiful-tulip/3489404002/
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Growing Gerbera Daisies - Knockout Floral Forms That Are Ideal For Cut Flowers
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Transplanting Gerbera Plant Care Hardiness Soil Requirements Temperature Aspect Watering Fertilising Pruning References Gerbera doesn’t merely symbolise happiness, it verily radiates it and will infuse its bewitched viewers with joy and uplifting sensations. Gerberas come in various floral forms and in a mind-boggling array of hues spanning the gamut of the warm spectrum. In a bed, on a windowsill, or in a vase – they’re knockouts! Overview Botanical Name Gerbera Common Name(s) Gerbera Daisy, Transvaal Daisy Plant Type Perennial Native Area Cultivars from plants of South American, African and Asian tropics Hardiness Rating H2-H4 Foliage Semi-evergreen Flowers Various bright colours, daisy-shaped flowers When To Sow / Plant April, May, June, September, October Flowering Months June, July, August, September, October Gerbera comprises hundreds of disk florets in the capitulum to which the full double forms add many dozens of ray florets. The flower often presents a perfectly circular form at the centre of which is another circular disk – the capitulum. Sometimes this central disk has a colour of its own; sometimes it matches those of the rays. And the word ‘rays’ could hardly be more appropriate for any other flower because these rays are narrow, long, straight, and finely tipped. So here’s what we end up with: Gerbera single form is disk-shaped simplicity itself and is the ideal vehicle for white and pale yellow and primrose yellow varieties, whispering purity and innocence. Gerbera semi-double form has a floral complexity and depth and is made to order for orange and pink tones, radiating an upbeat joy. Gerbera full double form is rich, even lush, and is the one that can do justice to the vermilion and crimson varieties, which project intensity and sensuousness. What is written here is only an outline – Gerberas are more multi-dimensional than most flowering plants. For example, single form includes flowers with both a single row but also a double layer of rays, and florists have four classifications for the double form flower. The Gerbera genus is a member of the Aster family, well known for its wealth of flowering plants.1 This family is also known as the Daisy family and, as it happens, G. viridifolia rather resembles the common European daisy. The accepted species count for Gerbera is only 24.2 While most of them, including those that are horticulturally important, are native to Africa, a few species are native to South America and southern Asia. In their native climes and also in tropical and sub-tropical countries Gerberas are evergreens but in the UK, depending on the combination of the series or variety and your region, a plant may be anything from a tender annual to a hardy evergreen! Tender or hardy, annual or evergreen, one thing’s for certain: if you lay out some Gerberas in your garden or inside your home, you will have flowers that many people find exceptionally pretty but also inherently cheering and joyful. Transplanting When transplanting Gerberas in any way, be sure to keep the soil line just a little higher than what it was – say 4cm higher for a mature plant. G. ‘Garvinea Sylvana’ It is better that the upper part of the root ball be just slightly exposed than for the crown to be even a little way in the soil, as these plants succumb all too readily to crown rot. Gerbera Plant Care To grow Gerberas as outdoor perennials in the United Kingdom you have to evaluate two factors: the hardiness of the varieties in question and your location. For example, ‘Garden Jewels’ series’ plants are hardy to H5 but ‘Landscape’ series are very tender with a rating of only H2. Hardiness If the varieties are hardy to H4 or hardier you can grow them as outdoor plants in most regions of the country. If they are hardy only to H2 (tender Gerberas) you may be able to plant them outdoors, but only if you live along the southern coastal curve of the country – otherwise, you should grow them in containers so they can be overwintered indoors. “Despite the fact I garden in one of the mildest parts of the UK, I still can’t grow Gerberas outside year round,” shares Horticulturist Colin Skelly. “This is because winter moisture, even in relatively free draining conditions, is just too great for the plants to persist. “Keeping them in pots over winter would be enough to keep them going, ready for re-planting or putting outside in containers the following spring.” Most series and cultivars have a hardiness rating of H3. It is because of this fine balancing act that these evergreens are in the main considered half-hardy semi-evergreens in the United Kingdom. In countries with subtropical climates, they are very much evergreens. In any case, you can grow any Gerbera as an annual anywhere in the country. Soil Requirements Gerberas need fertile, nutritious soil that is very well-drained. A sand- or chalk-based soil amended with organic matter like compost, peat moss, and/or well-rotted manure would be perfect. To ensure very good drainage incorporate some perlite into the soil and consider laying a bottom layer of grit or gravel. Soil pH plays a big role in Gerbera bud formation and flowering and ideally it should be from 5.6 to 6.0 – Moderately Acidic. Of course, you have some leeway but the further away one gets from this range the greater the negative impact on flowering. Excluding the compact varieties and series, and the ones that have been developed for pot-growing, Gerberas are especially deep-rooting plants so the soil you prepare should be deeper than for other garden plants. Temperature Another factor that strongly influences flowering is the temperature. If temperatures stay or are controlled within 10-20°C day and night, averaging about 17°C during the day and about 13°C centigrade during the night – the flowering season will be much extended and the plants may even bloom all through the year. Aspect In the United Kingdom Gerberas should be sited in full sun. In the milder regions they could use some afternoon shade in summer and in warm weather. If and when they are indoors in containers they should receive the maximum amount of sun but no less than four hours. Watering Water mature plants well, soaking the soil, about twice a week in summer. Outdoor plants may be watered deeply though the soil should drain very well. Reduce the frequency and amount of water in winter. Water Gerberas from soil level only. Do not get water on the foliage; keeping foliage dry will go a long way to preventing diseases. Also, water them in the morning, preferably between 8 and 10 AM. Fertilising In spring and summer fertilise the plants with a liquid fertiliser. Dilute it suitably, per instructions, for outdoor plants. Dilute it even further for container plants. Feed every three weeks for best results, and taper off in mid-autumn. However, if your plants are so sited that they will be in optimal conditions year-round and are set to flower year-round, then feed them year-round too but do so every five weeks. If you have grown Gerberas in containers and your varieties are not hardy enough to be kept outdoors in your region, bring them indoors at the end of autumn. Keep them in a sunny spot and reduce the amount of watering though the soil should not fully dry out or stay dry. Pruning You do not need to prune Gerberas per se but you can minimise the chances of pests and diseases by taking two preventive measures. First, prune so as to keep the centre of the plant open; this will allow sunlight and air to reach this all-important part of the plant. Actually, there is a second, equally important, reason to keep an opened-up crown: sunlight reaching the centre of the plant enhances and increases bud formation. Second, on a periodic basis remove both damaged or wilting leaves and spent flowers. References 1. Outen, C. (2022, April 15). Gerbera Daisy. Home & Garden Information Center | Clemson University, South Carolina. Retrieved March 16, 2023, from https://hgic.clemson.edu/factsheet/gerbera-daisy/ 2. Gerbera. (n.d.). Kew Royal Botanic Gardens. Retrieved March 16, 2023, from https://powo.science.kew.org/taxon/urn:lsid:ipni.org:names:331624-2
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Garden Ranunculus: How To Grow Beautiful 'Persian Buttercups' From Tubers
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Habitat & Growing Conditions How To Grow Ranunculus Plant Care Common Problems References Would you like to see fully double bowl-shaped blooms with row after row of neatly-arranged wafer-thin petals in your garden? And, oh, the colours – snow-white, ruby red, dark violet, or gradated flame orange or with fine purple edging! On top of it all the long-blooming flowers rise above a perfect backdrop of feathery foliage – be introduced to Garden Ranunculus. Overview Botanical Name Ranunculus asiaticus Common Name(s) Persian Buttercup Plant Type Perennials / Annuals Native Area Eurasia Hardiness Rating H4 Foliage Deciduous Flowers Beautiful blooms in various hues When To Sow March, April Plant Out May to June Genus Ranunculus girdles the globe – this cosmopolitan genus is absent from only a swath of land in western Africa, northern South America, and Papua New Guinea.1 Ranunculus asiaticus, the parent species for Garden Ranunculus, occurs in nature in a belt of land from Cyprus through Turkey and Iraq to Iran. Ranunculus grows from underground tubers which are, not quite accurately, also called corms. They are herbaceous deciduous perennials that are effectively annuals in cold climates. Bear in mind, though, that other species – besides Persian Buttercups – in this genus are starkly different. Some are fully cold-hardy, others grow in poor soil, and yet others are water-loving aquatic plants. Persian Ranunculus are none of these things; they are highly-cultivated ornamental plants for well-manicured gardens. ‘Hanoi’ There is one and only one reason to grow these plants: the blooms. Though Persian Buttercup is not a type of plant that offers a cornucopia of varieties, the limited number that it does produce such perfectly-sculpted blooms that just about anyone with a flower garden will probably want to try their hand at Ranunculus! Habitat & Growing Conditions Garden Ranunculus does not flourish in hot, humid conditions or in overly-damp soil. They grow best in well-draining, light soils. At the same time, the tubers are not fully hardy and will not survive prolonged frosts, especially in containers. The best type of climate for these plants is made up of mild winters, long springs with cooler temperatures, and pleasant summers that are not very warm or very rainy. R. asiaticus At an RHS hardiness rating of Zone H4, Garden Ranunculus is just hardy enough to be grown as a perennial in most of the United Kingdom. Planting and growing Ranunculus in the UK is one of those fine-margin propositions such that your particular location will dictate your choices and will also strongly influence how successful you are in this endeavour. How To Grow Ranunculus Ranunculus offer at least three possibilities as to how best to deploy them in the garden. Preliminarily, though, these flowers are most suitable for courtyard gardens, city gardens, and even formal gardens. A mass planting of mixed varieties in a large bed will create a stunning effect in view of the form of the blooms and the colours. At the other extreme, a single plant of any of several varieties in a container will make a superlative accent plant for the entry steps. Finally, Ranunculus make excellent companion plants such that a few combinations are already established. Try yellow and orange Ranunculus varieties with traditional blue and purple Delphiniums, as just one example. Sourcing Tubers Tubers can be categorised in different ways. Many British growers grade them by circumference. If you intend to grow Ranunculus in a sizeable bed, you can go with a large number of smaller, less floriferous, and certainly less expensive 4/5 tubers. For container-growing and for specimen plants, you should buy the larger tuber sizes. No matter which ones you get, tubers should be dry, firm, and without any nick or blemish. Planting Before planting the tubers, you may soak them in water at room temperature for an hour or two. In southernly UK regions, you can plant tubers in November, early spring, or both, otherwise plant them after the last frost. However, note that the tubers need temperatures of 9-13°C to emerge. If the average temperature is not within this range then you will need to grow the tuber(s) indoors or under glass in controlled conditions. This will achieve earlier spring flowering. Tubers should be planted about 4cm deep. Aim for a spacing between 10-25cm apart, depending on tuber and cultivar size. They must be planted with the ‘claws’ from which the roots will grow, downward. Backfill the hole and gently firm up the soil. “If you’re in doubt as to how best to grow these delightful plants, I would recommend planting them in October into 1 litre pots of good compost that is water-retentive, but also free-draining,” shares Master Horticulturist Peter Lickorish. “Place these somewhere slightly warm and out of rainfall, such as a greenhouse or cold frame. Keep the compost lightly moist but not too damp and in very early spring, growth should emerge.” Aspect In all parts of the United Kingdom except the balmiest ones these plants should be sited in full sun, otherwise they should get morning sun for about six hours. Soil Requirements A sand-based soil with little or no clay amended with organic compost or humus down to 7-8cm will suit these plants very well. Soil pH should be in the Slightly Acidic to Neutral range – 6.1 to 7.3 – or thereabouts. The soil should drain very well as this plant’s tubers are at risk of rotting in damp or poorly-drained soil. If you need to enhance drainage incorporate gravel at the bottom layer or mix in perlite. You can also facilitate drainage by forming ridges or mounds into which to plant the tubers. Apart from the garden, Ranunculus tubers may also be planted in suitably-sized containers. Plant Care You can plant Garden Ranunculus tubers in two very different seasons so that they will, in turn, produce flowers in two very different seasons as well. In either case the flowering season will last for five weeks, stretching to six. Golden Persian Buttercup Flower Autumn-planted tubers will put up flowering stems in March and spring-planted tubers will do so in June. Thus, if the summers in your particular region are not overly warm and humid, you can enjoy summer Ranunculus blooms, besides spring ones. Watering Water well after planting. You may apply a thin mulch of hay, straw, or bark. Water twice or three times per week. The soil should not become waterlogged nor should it be allowed to completely dry out in the initial growing phase, it should be kept just moist. Decrease the quantity and frequency of watering after the plants become established, and cease watering after they have shed their leaves and become dormant. Fertilising In the beginning of spring or at the end of spring, depending on when you planted the tubers, feed the plants with a 5-10-10 slow-release fertiliser. The aim is to do this prior to flowering. Alternatively, mix bonemeal into the soil several centimetres away from the tubers. Overwintering Though Ranunculus will grow outdoors in most regions of the UK, whether or not you should lift the tubers for the winter depends on your precise location, the possibility of a hard frost, and the kind of soil you have prepared. If you live in a cooler region of the UK, if you anticipate an extended frost, if your soil does not drain very well, or if you anticipate a wet summer, you should remove the tubers for indoor storage until planting season comes around, otherwise simply dispose of them and buy new tubers the following season. You can circumvent the need to remove tubers and re-plant them by growing Ranunculus in appropriately-sized containers. If you need to lift your tubers, cut off the tops, allow them to dry out in a cool, dry, dark room, and store them in a similar environment, after lightly packing them in vermiculite and putting them in a mesh bag. “As the frost risk subsides, transplant them into the ground or large decorative containers and await their triumphant display,” adds Peter. “Once they’ve finished, return them to their pots and the same location they spent the winter in, as this will keep them dry over the summer, which is important. Just be careful to make sure they do not bake too much.” Common Problems Belying their delicate and refined appearance, Ranunculus are relatively healthy plants that do not suffer from many pests or diseases. All you mainly need to watch out for are aphids and powdery mildew. Aphids can be combated with organic remedies such as horticultural soaps. If you see powdery mildew on a plant cut off the affected parts and promptly remove them from the garden. Ensure that the plant is getting sufficient sun and is not closed-in by other plants. You can avoid mildews by watering at soil level so that foliage does not get damp. References 1. Ranunculus. (n.d.). Kew Royal Botanic Gardens. Retrieved March 23, 2023, from https://powo.science.kew.org/taxon/urn:lsid:ipni.org:names:30002060-2
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