Growing
How To Plant And Grow Primroses: 'Great For Pots And Can Be Placed In Full Sun'
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Habitat & Growing Conditions Planting Primrose Plant Care Common Problems The Primrose, that voiceless herald of spring, is strongly identified with the UK. An abundance of relatively new cultivar series means that Primroses are available in numerous colours in tones pastel and saturated, in double forms, and even in variegated tones. Overview Botanical Name Primula vulgaris Common Name(s) Primula; Primrose Plant Type Perennial Flower Native Area West & Southern Europe Hardiness Rating H4-H7 Foliage Semi-evergreen Flowers Various colours – often yellow When To Sow March, April, September, October Flowering Months January, February, March, April, May Spring just wouldn’t be complete without primroses in an English country garden – correction, in any English garden. Indeed, Primroses are so strongly identified with England that although P. vulgaris is native to – besides the British Isles – most of Europe it is called ‘English Primrose’ all over the world. Its subspecies P. vulgaris subsp. vulgaris, also known as Common Primrose, extends its native range to near Asia. Habitat & Growing Conditions Moisture, shade, and cool temperatures – these three factors combine to make the ideal habitat for Primroses. Thus, these plants are very often found in and around damp woodlands close to bodies of water. And if there is one genus for which the virtually standard caution against heavy clay soils and wet soils can be dispensed with it, it is the English Primrose, Common Primrose, and most Primrose varieties, most particularly the Giant Cowslip. The majority of Primrose varieties prefers moist-to-damp soils, the only difference between the varieties being one of degree. Almost all varieties are somewhat acidophilic with the difference between varieties, again, being one of degree. The suitable pH for these plants ranges from 6.1-7.0. rich humus- and compost-based soils are best for these plants. P. ‘Gold Laced’ Group (Polyanthus) Most Primrose species prefer shade or part shade, though there are exceptions. Primrose varieties’ Hardiness Zones vary quite widely but most, including P. vulgaris and its subspecies, have a USDA Hardiness Zone from 4 to 8 (H4-H7 RHS hardiness). P. belarina ‘Valentine’ Planting Primrose When To Plant Autumn and spring are the best seasons to grow Primroses by any method by which a particular variety can be grown (or planted or propagated). Seeds are best sown in late autumn, otherwise in early spring. Dividing the plants or separating offsets is another method of propagation. Depending on the variety this is best done in spring, autumn, or either and both. For example, you should divide P. denticulata in spring but P. vulgaris Belarina series cultiviars in autumn. Where To Plant Where you plant a Primrose plant depends fairly strongly on the particular variety. P. vulgaris and its subspecies are great for mass plantings, are suitable for rock gardens, for growing on verges and slopes, and even as a delightful ground cover. On the other hand, plants from the series that bear intensely-coloured and truly showy flowers, such as the ‘Danova’ series, are ideally suited as bedding display plants, for borders and edges, and as decorative container plants. As for the highly striking varieties like ‘Perle von Bottrop’, ‘Zebra Blue’, and ‘Gold-Laced’ Group, these can be grown and displayed as true specimen plants in their own rights. Plant Care Soil Requirements A very good soil in which to grow the vast majority of Primroses would be a slightly acidic fertile clay-based loam with humus and peat moss. It should be kept moist and especially so in hot or dry weather. As opposed to the species, particularly ‘Cowslip’, Primrose cultivars and series should be planted in soils with very good drainage. Sunlight Primroses are known as shade-loving plants and in the main this is true. They will grow well in partial shade and dappled sunlight. However, some varieties tend to one or another extreme. For instance, ‘Perle von Bottrop’ prefers part shade to full shade whereas ‘Giant Cowslip’ prefers part sun to full sun. Most mature plants will do very well in temperatures between 12.5-25°C. “Primulas are great naturalised (particularly species) or grown in pots,” says Master Horticulturist Peter Lickorish. “In my experience, pots can be placed in full sun positions because, in early spring, the intensity of the sunlight is unlikely to be a problem. “If planting out afterwards, make sure to bear in mind that they will need more shade in the summer months and plant accordingly.” Feeding Primroses do not need fertiliser in British conditions particularly if the soil is rich, organic, and is amended with humus or organic manure. That said, cultivars and series varieties will benefit from fertilising. Popular ‘Danova’ Series Primroses are Easy to Grow You can fertilise once every fortnight from the start to the close of blooming season. Do so by lightly sprinkling a general fertiliser at the base of the plant. Common Problems As Primula Primrose varieties are so numerous and disparate, their resistance or susceptibility to pests varies quite widely. Though they are healthy plants in general, quite a number of pests may attack them. These include slugs, aphids, vine weevil, eelworms, leafhoppers and glasshouse red spider mite. The diseases that can affect these plants are primula brown core, grey mould, and leaf spot.
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This Is How To Grow And Care For Hardy Geraniums According To Nursery Growers
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Geraniums vs Pelargoniums Habitat & Growing Conditions How To Grow Geraniums Planting Geranium Plant Care Exceptional Geranium Properties References The virtues of Hardy Geraniums are too numerous to reel off but suffice it to say that there must be solid reasons for these plants to be the United Kingdom’s favourite perennials. Very many varieties are prolific and bloom for months on end, and the simple flowers exude a genuine charm all their own with their differing and delicate venations lending blooms a graceful refinement. “I love hardy geraniums,” shares Rosy Hardy, Vice President of the RHS. “They are the most useful plants you could grow in a garden because they are either dwarf, medium or tall and come in a good colour range. The only place you can’t grow them is a pond. “If you’ve got a hardy geranium and need to fill a spot in a border, they are perfect.” “Geraniums are super easy to grow and fuss-free and suitable for gardeners of all experience levels,” says Suzie, who opened her nursery in 2018. “They require minimal maintenance and are also generally pest and disease resistant.” The Geranium genus has a vast habitat that spans all climatic zones, yet this remarkable range is exceeded by the popularity of this plant. And for good reasons: a majority of varieties are perennial, as many are hardy, a large number bloom all summer long, they are so easy to grow, and they boast truly delightful flowers! Overview Botanical Name Geranium Common Name(s) Cranesbill Plant Type Perennial / Annual Flower Native Area Europe Hardiness Rating H6-H7 Foliage Deciduous Flowers Rounded, 5 petalled flowers in various hues When To Sow January, February, November, December Flowering Months April, May, June, July, August, September “Geraniums come from all over the globe so it’s possible to find a Geranium for almost any part of the garden, whether that’s in sun or shade, or wet or dry soil, and most situations in between,” shares Gary, who has experience gardening on opposite sides of the world. “There are ones that grow up to four feet and ones that only grow to six inches. There are types that can pretty much give year-round interest and there are also types suitable for containers. “The vast majority of them are hardy down to -15°C.” The Geranium genus includes 358 species according to Kew Royal Botanic Gardens, and many more cultivars with almost all the in-demand varieties being perennials.1 These plants are also called ‘Cranesbills’ because the seed capsule of many species brings to mind a crane’s bill. These capsules exhibit one of the more interesting and dynamic Botanical mechanisms related to seed dispersion. When the seeds within a capsule are mature, the capsule bursts open and throws out the seeds. Geraniums also possess other traits that are exciting, especially for hobbyist gardeners. Geraniums vs Pelargoniums Geraniums belong to Family Geraniaceae as do the closely-related Pelargoniums.2 Originally the species of both genera were classed together in Genus Geranium. Pelargonium capitatum Although they were separated and reclassified into genera Geranium and Pelargonium over two centuries ago, plants of the latter genus are sometimes still considered and called Geraniums.3 As a result, to differentiate between the two, Geraniums proper are often called ‘Hardy Geraniums’ or ‘True Geraniums’. “If you’d prefer to use the name Geranium for Pelargonium, the RHS recommends referring to them as ‘tender Geraniums’ to distinguish them from true hardy Geraniums,” adds Colin Skelly. This article does not cover Pelargonium. Habitat & Growing Conditions Geranium is so varied a genus and its species cover an abundance of regions and biomes that they are found in every conceivable habitat except the tundra. Some species grow at sea level while others thrive on high mountains. For example, G. robertianum flourishes in coastal areas while G. nodosum does equally well on alpine slopes. Some species prefer open fields and full sun while others prefer woodland shade though it is safe to say that part sun suits most species very well. These plants make do with any type of soil so long as it is not waterlogged or overly alkaline. As the genus is so varied and as its species inhabit just about every climatic zone and biome, species’ RHS Hardiness Ratings vary widely. In the UK the native species are found in meadows (Geranium pratense), woodlands (Geranium sylvaticum), littoral regions and even on sand dunes (Geranium sanguineum). How To Grow Geraniums First, keep in mind that Geraniums are unusually easy to propagate yourself, and that too in three different ways: G. pyrenaicum Plants can be propagated by division and also by cuttings. Seeds are simple to obtain by harvesting seed capsules – although the seedlings may not be true to the parent cultivar. Geraniums are among the most widely available of plants. All the established varieties are available at brick-and-mortar garden centres and also from online retailers, with a few varieties sold by dozens of sellers. G. pratense Both potted plants and seed packets are equally easy to find. Planting Considering the considerable range in varieties’ heights and spreads, and the fact that they come in all habits and forms, just where a Geranium variety is best planted strongly depends on its characteristics. Consider that G. ‘Mavis Simpson’ grows to all of 20cm, if even that, and is mat-forming, while G. ‘Orion’ is over five times as tall and with a bushy habit. G. ‘Orion’ Selecting the right plant for the right location is one of the most important care factors according to Suzie. “If you select a plant for a sunny spot that is better suited to a shady spot, it will grow, but it will not thrive. “Fortunately, there are hundreds of different geraniums to choose from, so it’s very easy to find something suitable for every corner of your garden.” Most varieties make for superlative beds, borders, and edges. The few mat-forming varieties are excellent choices for attractive groundcover while clumping varieties provide splashes of colour in rock gardens. A majority of Geranium varieties are of that intermediate height such that in formal gardens they can be matched with taller plants like rhododendrons to set them off, yet can also be used behind smaller ornamentals like pansies. Plants of this varied and versatile genus can be displayed in a planter on the patio, in pots on a parapet, in hanging baskets on a pergola and much more. Geranium Plant Care “If you’re looking to grow Hardy Geraniums for the first time, you really would do well to find an easier plant to grow,” says Gary. Among the most unfussy and undemanding of flowering plants, Geraniums will grow in just about any soil and with next to no care. G. cinereum ‘Ballerina’ (Courtesy of The Hardy Geranium Nursery) Though this is a simple statement of fact, it should not be misconstrued to suggest that you may neglect your Geranium. For healthy, long-lived plants that adorn your garden with an abundance of blooms for the longest possible flowering season, here are some simple tips: Soil Requirements Plant Geraniums in any fertile loam mix that contains humus or organic manure. If planting in a pot use a peat-free potting compost or a loam-based compost such as John Innes no. 2. If planting in the soil, geraniums suit many soil conditions but should have good drainage and the ideal soil pH range for most varieties is from 6.0 to 6.5 – Slightly Acidic. Sunlight & Temperature A majority of Geraniums prefer full sun to part sun whereas some prefer full shade to part shade. A few very sporting varieties, such as G. phaeum var. phaeum ‘Langthorns Blue’ and G. ‘Melinda’, will flourish in full sun through full shade! Geranium x magnificum Most Geraniums will grow well where they get full sun until around 1PM and shade or dappled sunlight thereafter. In the United Kingdom, temperature ranges are not a concern for Hardy Geraniums, although they may wilt in prolonged dry weather in sandy soil. Harvesting Seeds “Geraniums can tend to self-seed, some more than others,” explains Gary when discussing some of the drawbacks of growing geraniums in the garden. This can be a great thing if you want your geraniums to self-propagate, but not so great if you like a bit more control in your outdoor spaces. “Luckily, this can largely be avoided by going for sterile hybrids.” Keep in mind that it is particularly straightforward to collect Geranium seeds by harvesting the capsules. G. robertianum To plant seeds, nudge them into the earth and cover with a thin sprinkling of soil. Water well and then continue to water every two days or so, so as to keep the soil moist as the seedling matures, tapering off as the plant grows. Common Problems For the most part, Geraniums are healthy low-care plants. However, now and again a plant can be attacked by vine weevil, geranium sawfly, or capsid bug. The diseases that Geraniums have a particular susceptibility to are limited to downy mildew and powdery mildew. “Encouraging good air circulation between plants, watering early in the day and avoiding watering the leaves will help to prevent powdery mildew,” advises Suzie. Exceptional Geranium Properties The visual appeal of these plants begin with the foliage. Be the leaves a medium or dark shade of green, the colour is almost always rich and deep with some having a shiny lamina. What is more, come autumn, many varieties’ leaves become tinged with red, bronze, or golden-yellow or even change colour entirely. G. maculatum The leaves also have a pretty shape, being oval to round, and palmately lobed, often deeply. As it happens, in a show of sympathy and artistic symmetry with the lobed leaves, many Geranium flowers’ petals are notched at the distal borders, some quite deeply. The lovely five-petalled flowers are bowl-shaped, salver-shaped, or flatly disk-shaped. Their colours fall in the red-to-blue spectrum with the hue ranging from very pale to vibrantly intense, from a pinkish-white to brilliant violet. Geranium x magnificum A feature typical of Geranium flowers is the well-known delicate radial veining along the petals. To cap off their attractions, a majority of Geraniums draw bees and butterflies. Geraniums are one of the most popular plants for beds and borders but they also make wonderful container plants for the windowsill and balcony. “You can pop geraniums in a pot, they don’t get huge and they bulk up quickly,” shares Lee Burkhill, an award-winning Garden Designer. “These plants can tolerate abuse, so start with the basics and once you get that right, you can start to bulk up on your collections.” Considering that a majority produce blooms for the whole summer with a significant number extending their flowering season deep into autumn, with other varieties getting the show underway sometime in spring, it is no wonder that Geraniums are the United Kingdom’s favourite perennial plants. References 1. Geranium Tourn. ex L. (n.d.). Kew Royal Botanic Gardens. Retrieved March 15, 2023, from https://powo.science.kew.org/taxon/urn:lsid:ipni.org:names:327764-2#children 2. Geraniaceae Juss. (n.d.-b). Kew Royal Botanic Gardens. Retrieved March 9, 2023, from https://powo.science.kew.org/taxon/urn:lsid:ipni.org:names:30001521-2 3. Mentary, L. (2020, December 28). The Difference Between Geraniums and Pelargoniums. Rozanne and Friends®. Retrieved March 9, 2023, from https://www.geraniumrozanne.com/geraniums-and-pelargoniums/
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Growing And Tending To Highly Productive Asparagus With Horticulturist Dan Ori
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Why Grow Asparagus? Common Varieties How To Grow Asparagus Soil Requirements Polycultures Planting Crowns Tending Asparagus Common Problems Companion Planting Harvesting Asparagus Alternatives Asparagus is a perennial vegetable that can provide you with a useful, edible spring yield over a number of years. While most gardeners who grow their own will focus on annual and biennial crops, choosing some perennial edibles can also be an excellent idea. They are a great choice for low-maintenance gardens, and once established, typically require less care than most typical annual or biennial fruits and vegetables. Asparagus is a delicacy, prized for its delicate flavour. Though it will not be an ideal choice for all conditions, it can find a place in many UK gardens. Overview Botanical Name Asparagus officinalis Common Name(s) Asparagus Plant Type Perennial Vegetable Native Area Europe & West Asia Hardiness Rating H4 Foliage Deciduous Flowers Bell-shaped, greenish-white flowers When To Plant Crowns March Harvesting Months April, May, June Asparagus, also known as garden asparagus or Asparagus officinalis, to give it its official name, is a perennial herbaceous flowering plant in the genus of the same name. It is a common edible crop, and perhaps one of the best-known perennial vegetables. The young shoots of the plant are typically eaten as a spring vegetable. Asparagus has been cultivated as an edible crop for a very long time. Only the young and tender shoots are consumed, since once the buds begin to open, the shoots quickly become woody. Its short harvest season means that it has long been viewed as a delicacy, and highly prized. Why Grow Asparagus? Asparagus is useful as a vegetable that will return to provide edible shoots year after year. Choosing to plant asparagus is a long-term investment that can continue to add value in your garden for a long time to come. As a perennial, Asparagus is a low-maintenance plant, which you can more or less forget about over much of the year. Asparagus season is a highlight on the local food calendar here in the UK – and since asparagus can be expensive to buy, growing your own at home makes a lot of sense. Common Varieties Some common and highly regarded asparagus varieties for the UK include: ‘Guelph Millennium’ ‘Backlim’ ‘Connovers Colossal’ ‘Gijnlim’ ‘Pacific 2000’ How To Grow Asparagus Asparagus favours a sunny and open site, but can tolerate light, dappled shade. Soil Requirements It will thrive in light, open soils, that are well drained. While asparagus is not hugely fussy about soil type, in areas with a higher clay content in their soil, or heavy clay soil, may find this a plant that is more difficult to grow. Though even clay soil gardeners can grow asparagus in beds that have been amended to improve drainage with plenty of organic matter. Asparagus will prefer a soil with a PH in the region of 6.5-7.5, so if you have a more acidic soil, you will find asparagus cultivation more challenging. Liming will usually be required if you wish to grow asparagus on particularly acidic sites, but it may be better to consider other perennial vegetable options. Polycultures Asparagus was traditionally often grown in a dedicated asparagus bed. One issue with this, however, is that the bed will be underutilised and will remain free, with bare soil, for much of the year. One great alternative to this is to create polycultures, growing asparagus in the same bed as other plants that require similar growing conditions. Asparagus can be grown alongside other perennial crops, or grown within annual vegetable beds. We’ll explore this idea of companion planting a little later in this article. Planting Crowns Asparagus can be grown from seed, but it is more common to plant asparagus crowns. Asparagus crowds are one-year-old plants, which are typically purchased and planted towards the end of the dormant period. Asparagus crowns are usually planted in March or April. They are placed into growing areas that have been well prepared in winter early spring. To prepare for asparagus planting, you should make sure that the bed has been well mulched with organic matter, or that a living green manure or cover crop has been sown to protect the soil and suppress the growth of annual weeds over the winter months. If a cover crop or green manure has been used, the material will be chopped and dropped prior to planting the crowns. If the soil in the growing area is lacking in fertility, you can consider adding an organic fertiliser such as blood fish and bone to the area in early spring. To plant asparagus crowns: Dig a trench around 30cm wide and 20cm deep. Add well-rotted manure or homemade compost to the bottom of this trench, then cover the base with a 5cm layer of the soil that was excavated. In the centre of the trench, add a 10cm high ridge, and place the crowns on this ridge. Space the crowns around 30-40cm apart. Spread out their roots evenly and replace the rest of the soil, making sure that you leave the bud tips just visible above the soil surface. If you are making multiple rows, make sure these rows are at least 40cm apart. Once you have planted your asparagus crowns, mulch well around them with a 5cm layer of balanced, nutrient-rich, weed-free organic matter. Tending Asparagus Weeding Creating polycultures and ensuring good soil coverage with non-competing or minimally competing plants is the best way to reduce weed growth in an asparagus growing area. Any problem weeds that do pop up must be removed carefully by hand, because asparagus plants have shallow roots that can easily be damaged if you use a hoe. Frosts If a late frost threatens, protect plants with row covers or cloches to avoid frost damage on tender new shoots. Another thing to consider is that asparagus can also be grown undercover in a polytunnel or other undercover growing area. This can bring earlier harvests, and also avoid problems in colder regions. Watering Asparagus is known as a fairly drought-tolerant crop, but the plants will do best if the soil around them is consistently moist, though free draining. In dry conditions, be sure to water regularly during the summer months. Support In a less sheltered position, asparagus plants that have grown taller and feathery in the summer might need to be given some support to avoid damage. This support might be provided by other plants in a polyculture, or by man-made twig/cane and twine support structures. At the end of the summer, asparagus plants should be left to yellow and begin to wither before you cut them down to soil level. Common Problems Slugs & Snails Slugs and snails can be a problem – especially for young asparagus plants. The best way to control these pests in your garden is to make sure there are plenty of natural predators in your garden to eat them. Certain birds, amphibians, and mammals can all be beneficial – so make sure you plant as diversely as possible and create habitats to attract this wildlife to your garden. Asparagus Beetle Another common pest species that can plague asparagus is the asparagus beetle. Overwintering beetles can be destroyed by burning old stems at the end of the season, but companion planting may also help, to a degree at least, in preventing an infestation. And again, improving plant and wildlife biodiversity is key for integrated pest management in an organic garden. Companion Planting Tomatoes One of the best-known companion plants for asparagus is tomatoes. The tomato plant is said to be efficacious in repelling the asparagus beetle – and asparagus may aid tomato plants too, by repelling certain root nematodes that can affect tomato plants. The extent to which companion planting benefits can be proven varies, and often, recommendations are anecdotal, but many gardens report good results from this companion planting combination. In any case, planting tomatoes in the same bed as asparagus can help you make the most of the bed after the asparagus harvest and throughout the rest of the summer season. Basil & Parsley Planting basil and parsley around tomatoes and asparagus can also be beneficial. These plants too may help in repelling the asparagus beetle, and will create good ground cover to suppress weeds and retain moisture around tomato plants. Crop Rotation Of course, unlike asparagus, tomatoes and basil are annually grown crops, and tomatoes should be part of a crop rotation scheme. They should not be grown in the same bed year after year or pests and diseases can build up. Fortunately, asparagus can also fit in with other crops in rotation. For example, you can sow beetroots, lettuce and other leafy crops between asparagus rows in the spring, then successionally sow lettuce, spinach and other leafy greens beneath the taller asparagus fronds in the summer months. You can also include flowers in asparagus polycultures – borage, marigolds and nasturtiums, for example. Companion planting with other perennial plants also works well. For example, you could consider creating a perennial bed with asparagus, strawberries, rhubarb, horseradish, comfrey, and certain perennial herbs. Just make sure that you do not sow alliums (onions, garlic etc.) close to asparagus. And do not plant potatoes too close to asparagus, mostly since harvesting them will disrupt the shallow asparagus roots. Harvesting “An Asparagus plant can be highly productive for over 20 years, but they take a while to establish,” shares Master Horticulturist Dan Ori. “I recommend not harvesting in the first year and only lightly harvesting in the second year.” As Dan suggests, asparagus crowns sown in March or April should not be harvested for the first two years after planting, to allow the plants to become established. This may seem a long time to wait, but be patient. Remember, once you do begin harvesting, you can continue to do so for 10-15 years to come. After the first two years have elapsed, you can begin to harvest asparagus spears for a period of 8 weeks, usually from mid-April for outdoors grown plants. It is best to harvest shoots every 2-3 days in warm weather in order to obtain the best quality spears. Simply take a sharp knife and cut spears off just below the soil surface, when they are no more than 18cm tall. Asparagus Alternatives If you have a heavy clay soil, or are dealing with a more shaded site, then asparagus may not be the best perennial vegetable for your garden. Interestingly, there are a couple of different plants that might grow better in your garden that also provide edible shoots, and which are sometimes described as ‘poor man’s asparagus’. One is Chenopodium bonus-henricus (also known as ‘Good King Henry’). ‘Good King Henry’ This is a great forest garden plant, surviving well in dappled shade beneath fruit trees or in other perennial planting schemes in dappled or partial shade. Young shoots can be peeled and used just like asparagus, and young leaves can later also be eaten in moderation. Hops (Humulus lupulus) can also be grown in partial shade, and hops shoots are considered a delicacy. When young and green, these too can be sliced off and eaten in exactly the same way as asparagus.
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Want To Grow Asters? Don't Miss These Great Options With Care Guidelines
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Why Grow Asters? Growing Options How To Grow Asters Planting Companion Planting Aster Plant Care Watering Mildew Issues Feeding Deadheading & Cutting Back Division References Asters, also known as ‘Michaelmas Daisies’, are popular herbaceous flowering perennials that look wonderful in many UK gardens. Whether you are trying to create a traditional cottage garden feel or more modern prairie-style planting, Asters can be a go-to choice. They look lovely – and can be great for the bees, butterflies and other beneficial insects that visit your garden. And of course, what is good for the wildlife in your garden is good for you as a gardener too – since the rich biodiversity makes it easier for you to grow your own food and derive other yields from your organic garden. Overview Botanical Name Aster Common Name(s) Michaelmas Daisies Plant Type Perennial / Annual Flower Native Area Eurasia Hardiness Rating H6-H7 Foliage Deciduous Flowers Star-shaped flowers in different colours Flowering Months August, September, October When To Pinch Out Tops July When To Deadhead September, October The genus Aster once included over 500 different species of perennial flowering plant from Eurasia and North America.1 However, research during the 1990s led to North American species being reclassified into different genera – such as, for example, Eurybia and Symphyotrichum.2 Nonetheless, these North American species are usually still referred to as Asters. In this article, we will include and run through these species too – since the care and growing tips for these plants are often the same or very similar to the (roughly 180) Eurasian species in this genus. Aster amellus The term ‘Aster’ comes from the ancient Greek for ‘star’ – the name refers to the shape of the flower head.3 The genus Aster is part of the large Asteraceae plant family, also known as the ‘daisy’ or ‘sunflower’ family.4 This is a huge plant family with over 32,000 different species, many of which are common garden flowers.5 Aster tripolium There is actually only one native Aster in the UK – the Aster tripolium, or sea aster.6 Another species formerly known as Aster linosyris is now known as Galatella linosyris. However, many Asters from Europe and North America, and hybrids derived from them, can be grown easily and successfully in UK gardens. Why Grow Asters? Asters take their common name – Michaelmas Daisies – from the fact that they mostly bloom in late summer or early autumn. They can be excellent choices where you want to make sure you have flowers in bloom in your garden over as much of the year as possible. They take over where summer flowering blooms leave off – and can bridge the gap between the summer and autumn seasons in your garden. Aster x frikartii ‘Monch’ Asters can grow in all UK hardiness zones and can be useful for attracting wildlife to your garden. They can be beneficial for pollinators, and are important food plants for the larvae of a number of common butterflies and moths. Another benefit of growing Asters, of course, is that these perennials will return to bloom in your garden year after year. And like many other perennial plants, they will require very little care, so could be a great choice for a relatively low-maintenance garden scheme. Growing Options Symphyotrichum novi-belgii There are a great many different Asters that you might consider choosing for your garden. Some great options for UK gardeners include: A. alpinus A. amellus A. x frikartii (A. amellus x A. thomsonii) A. herveyi (Eurybia x herveyi) A. tongolensis (e.g. ‘Beggarten’) Symphyotrichum laeve (e.g. ‘Calliope’) S. novae-angliae (e.g. ‘Harrington’s Pink’) S. novi-belgii (e.g. ‘Dasthree’, ‘Island Series’, ‘Samoa’, ‘Algar’s Pride’) S, ‘Ochtendgloren’ (pilosum var pringlei hybrid) “Callistephus chinensis, the China aster, is a fantastic plant that is often overlooked as it is an annual,” shares Dan Ori, Master Horticulturist. “However, it can be sown directly to the soil in spring each year. “There are many varieties available including the Duchess series, which has flowers that are Chrysanthemum-like and come in single, semi-double, and double forms. “They range from 20cm to 70cm in height, giving you lots of options for pots and borders and he taller varieties work exceptionally well as cut flowers.” When choosing Asters for your garden, the size and hues of the blooms are one thing to consider, but you should also think about the typical height of the plants. Since this will determine whether they will work best towards the back, in the middle, or near the front of a bed or border on in a container – some Asters are much taller than others. See a full breakdown of Aster varieties in this post. How To Grow Asters Asters look great in herbaceous perennial borders, especially alongside other perennial flowering plants and meadow grasses. They are right at home in a prairie planting scheme – the flowers are cheery and colourful, and a number of varieties also make excellent cut flowers. They can be great for a traditional cottage garden, but many varieties can also work well in a more contemporary scheme. These perennial flowers will thrive in almost any soil type, ideally one that is moist but well-drained to well-drained. They will usually do best in areas of full sun though many varieties can also cope with partial or dappled shade. Many varieties are also excellent for growing in containers. Remember to place Asters in a location which suits their appearance and form – and note their eventual height when deciding where to place them. Avoid placing taller Asters in a location that is too exposed, where they may be subject to wind damage. A border of Asters and tall perennial grasses can also have wider applications. For example, it can be used to ‘borrow’ landscape from beyond the edges of a rural garden – tying in the garden with farm fields beyond. A border of perennial flowers and grasses might also screen another part of the garden from view, or partially obscure a view without entirely blocking it. Planting Aster seedlings or cuttings should be planted out, typically, between March and May. This is also the time when you should plant out Asters as potted plants that you have purchased for your garden. Asters should typically be placed with a spacing of around 40cm between plants. Companion Planting Asters are versatile perennials that will work well alongside many other herbaceous perennials in a bed or garden border. Asters look fantastic alongside other herbaceous perennials for summer and autumn including: Achillea millefolium Caryopteris Chrysanthemums Echinacea Helenium Phlox Rudbeckia Salvias Veronicastrums And alongside a wide range of ornamental grasses such as: Stipa Molinia and Calamagrostis, for example. Aster Plant Care Caring for Asters does not require a lot of work. Aster x frikartii ‘Wunder von Stafa’ In fact, when placed in the right locations, Asters will require very little care and be a great choice for a low-maintenance garden. Watering Keep the soil well-watered, but do not let Asters sit with wet feet. Watering problems are the most common reason for one of the main issues that Aster growers can encounter – mildews. These flowering plants can be rather prone to mildew problems; over-watering is one of the most common causes. Typically, in normal UK conditions, watering in addition to natural rainfall will not be required (unless they are grown in containers). In drought conditions, or when growing in containers, a thorough soaking every two weeks should be sufficient to see them through hot and dry periods. Mildew Issues Consistent watering, but a well-draining medium or soil, and good air-flow around the plants can help to reduce the likelihood that this problem will occur. Avoid overcrowding your plants – and do not water too much. If you experience a lot of problems with mildew in your particular garden, then it could be a good idea to look for more mildew-resistant cultivars or varieties. Feeding Asters typically do not require particularly high levels of nutrients; fertilisers will not typically be required. Usually, it will be enough to simply mulch around the plants with a good quality organic mulch, which will act as a slow-release fertiliser over time. When growing in pots, however, or to improve very poor soil, you may wish to add blood fish and bone or another organic fertiliser a couple of times during the flowering period. Deadheading & Cutting Back Deadheading the plants and getting rid of spent flowers can also help to reduce the incidence of any problems of this type. Deadheading will also keep them looking good for longer and will encourage them to produce more flowers. To get as many flowers as possible from your Asters, you should pinch out top shoots at midsummer, then deadhead as you go. I like to cut back my Asters hard after flowering finishes in autumn. Division Asters should also be divided every four years or so. This will help the plants to retain their vigour, and prevent clumps from becoming overly congested. For the health of the existing plant, I find it best to divide mature Asters in the spring, just as new growth begins. References 1. The BRAHMS Project, University of Oxford, Department of Plant Sciences. (n.d.). Aster species. Oxford University Plants. Retrieved March 9, 2023, from https://herbaria.plants.ox.ac.uk/bol/plants400/Profiles/AB/Aster 2. Why Do Plant Names Change? (2014, July). RHS the Garden. Retrieved March 9, 2023, from https://www.rhs.org.uk/about-the-rhs/publications/the-garden/the-garden-back-issues/2014-issues/july/plant-name-changes.pdf 3. Definition of aster. (n.d.). In www.dictionary.com. https://www.dictionary.com/browse/aster 4. Petruzzello, M. (2015, October 9). List of plants in the family Asteraceae. Encyclopedia Britannica. Retrieved March 9, 2023, from https://www.britannica.com/topic/list-of-plants-in-the-family-Asteraceae-2040400 5. Asteraceae. (n.d.). Global Biodiversity Information Facility. Retrieved March 9, 2023, from https://www.gbif.org/species/113579929 6. Aster (Sea) / Sea Aster. (n.d.). Wild Flower Finder. Retrieved March 9, 2023, from https://wildflowerfinder.org.uk/Flowers/A/Aster(Sea)/Aster(Sea).htm
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Here's How To Grow Moneywort - A Creeping Plant With A Tendency To Spread
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Why Grow Moneywort? How To Grow Creeping Jenny Common Problems References Here’s a plant with a quirky name, a visually captivating appearance, and a somewhat controversial reputation. If you’re planning to incorporate this billowing yellow-green plant into your garden, you need to have an understanding of all three. Overview Botanical Name Lysimachia nummularia Common Name(s) Creeping Jenny ‘Moneywort’, Herb Tuppence, Tuppence Grass Plant Type Perennial Native Area Europe Hardiness Rating H5 Foliage Evergreen Flowers Cup-shaped golden flowers When To Sow March, April Flowering Months June, July, August The ‘creeping’ moniker is fairly self-explanatory: left to its own devices, the boundaries of this plant will creep ever-outward, as its tendrils seek out fertile new ground to grow in. This creeping tendency can become problematic, but we’ll talk about that later. Moneywort, although seemingly cryptic at first, simply harks back to the Latin name: Lysimachia nummularia. The second half of the name, ‘nummularia’, translates to ‘like a coin’, and refers to the coin-shaped leaves on a mature plant.1 Many traditional names riffed on this monetary theme (twopence, for example), but moneywort is the one that stuck best. Whatever you want to call it, this plant is an evergreen perennial well-known for its tendency to spread. Stems grow and place new roots, allowing the plant to expand effectively indefinitely. Why Grow Moneywort? This plant looks nice, it is UK-hardy and it will visually complement other plants and themes in your garden. It’s fairly easy to grow, too, although it requires a higher degree of vigilance than some other plants, especially if you’re planting in the ground. How To Grow Creeping Jenny You have two options: grow from seed, or transplant an established plant into your garden. With the former, start growing in a container indoors. This will keep the seedling safe from the elements and give it the best shot at taking hold. Plant the seed just below the surface of the soil, then water gently. After a couple of weeks you should see growth, then in early spring you can transplant your seedling outdoors. If you’re transplanting an established plant bought elsewhere, simply choose the right spot in your garden. Planting If you’re growing in the ground, dig a hole in your soil approximately the same depth as the pot you’re moving the plant from. Remove the plant and place gently in the hole, then cover over and pat down gently; ensure the root system is fully covered. Grow about 60cm apart from other plants to factor in the enthusiastic growth of a creeping Jenny. If you’re growing in a container, repeat the steps above, and ensure the container is deep enough to accommodate a root system. Growing creeping Jenny in containers is a popular choice because, when established, the plant will spill pleasingly over the container edges, creating a fantastic draping effect. Where To Grow This plant likes full sun or partial shade, and will do best in any aspect except for north-facing. It can handle exposure to the elements, but will also do well with shelter. Creeping Jenny has a hardiness rating of H6, meaning it will tolerate even the harshest of UK winter conditions – all the way down to -20°C. Choose a soil with clay or loam, and ensure it’s able to drain well. As we’ve said, if you’re growing creeping Jenny outdoors, not in a container, leave plenty of space for the plant to grow, and remain especially vigilant that new growth doesn’t spill beyond the intended area. If this happens, the plant can quickly become a pest, wreaking havoc on other nearby growth. “I tend to use L. nummularia in pots as a trailing plant to avoid its ability to spread rather too well in the ground,” shares Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly. “Removing it can be tricky as it will grow back from any sections left in the ground.” If you’re feeling particularly adventurous, you could grow your creeping Jenny outdoors in an elevated display. This gives the best of both worlds: your plant is able to enjoy the optimal outdoor conditions, while being far less prone to invade surrounding flowerbeds and gardens. The draping leaves would have to make a journey all the way to the ground before being able to spread, giving you plenty of time to catch them in the act and intervene. Growing Indoors In containers, creeping Jenny makes a fine houseplant. We’ve mentioned the billowing nature of Jenny’s leaves: this makes a great visual contribution to your indoor plants, especially if you don’t currently have an ivy or other flowing plant. For the best results, keep your creeping Jenny container on a high surface – perhaps a shelf or on top of a cabinet – to give the flowing leaves enough space to flourish. L. nummularia ‘aurea’ If you grow on a coffee table or similar low-level surface, the tendrils will quickly bunch up on the floor, which isn’t ideal. Growing indoors, try to find a window that faces west or south, to ensure the plant gets enough sunlight while not remaining in direct sunlight for extended periods. Fertilising Creeping Jenny doesn’t need a lot of fertiliser. A sprinkling of 10-10-10 each spring contains enough nutrition to keep the plant growing abundantly for the next season. Watering As a natural inhabitant of wet and boggy areas, creeping Jenny can handle more moisture than some other plants. Water often, and try to keep the soil consistently moist (read: not soggy). Try to avoid letting the soil get completely dry. Pruning You’ve probably figured by now that, left unchecked, creeping Jenny can cause problems. This is because the roots like to roam (or, you could say, creep), and they set down roots when they do so. Each new root is effectively a control centre for a new section of plant, and it’s the reason creeping Jennys are able to cover so much ground. If your moneywort is growing on the ground, you’ll want to prune back particularly enthusiastic growth fairly often. Doing so simply requires cutting off sections growing beyond the intended area, and ensuring you pull up the entire root system of each new section. Pruning also helps your creeping Jenny to remain fresh and healthy, as the plant is able to allocate more of its resources to the growing sections, rather than fuelling new growth. Propagation This plant lends itself well to propagation. When you’re cutting off newly-rooted sections, you have the option to regrow any or all of these as new plants. Whether in the ground elsewhere in the garden, in a container to mix things up visually, or via a friend: you’ll quickly get a generous reputation if you give away each of your cuttings to people looking to expand their garden arsenal! Common Problems Aside from its potentially troublesome overabundance, creeping Jenny isn’t prone to any pests or diseases, making it a popular choice for gardeners who aren’t looking for too much of a challenge. There are a couple of things to look for, and although they’re unlikely, we’ve included them here for reference. Root Rot Theoretically, any plant is susceptible to root rot. This damage occurs when the root system of a plant remains waterlogged for too long, and the solution is simple: don’t water your plant more than it needs. As we implied earlier, with creeping Jenny, this simply means allowing the root system to drain, only watering when required, and taking care to never let the soil dry out fully. Fungal Issues Again, most plants are susceptible to fungal diseases in theory. These various afflictions all come from fungal spores settling on your plant and propagating, causing damage to leaves, stems, roots, or all three, depending on the type. Luckily, the solution to fungal diseases is the same as root rot: don’t overwater. Fungus like damp conditions and will thrive on plants whose roots or surface-level organic matter doesn’t get the chance to dry out or dry off properly. To protect your plant, take care when watering to only water the soil, and avoid getting leaves and stems wet. If you’re looking for a captivating, mat-forming plant for your garden, or for something to flow dreamily out of pots and provide vertical visual interest, then creeping Jenny is the way forward. While it requires a keen eye to prevent ground-growing plants from spiralling out of control, the actual act of keeping a moneywort in check isn’t prohibitively difficult. Just keep a careful eye on it, and trim back any sections that are getting a little too intrepid. In exchange, you’ll be rewarded with a vibrant and vivacious plant that pairs excellently with all manner of shapes and sizes of plant. References 1. Moneywort (Creeping Jenny). (n.d.). University of Arkansas. Retrieved March 14, 2023, from https://www.uaex.uada.edu/yard-garden/resource-library/plant-week/moneywort-6-24-05.aspx
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Grow Heuchera ‘Coral Bells’ For Pronounced Foliage That Changes Colour With The Seasons
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Habitat & Growing Conditions How To Grow Heuchera Plant Care Common Diseases & Problems References Heuchera plays the lead role in the Drama of Foliage enacted in your garden – and there’s no ‘off-season’ – for this drama plays year-round. To begin with, this plant has appealing leaf shapes, being attractively lobed or scalloped. It presents hues in numerous tones and varying intensities, and exhibits prominent veining and marbling. On top of this, it even undergoes colour changes with the seasons! They are low-care to no-care bushy evergreen perennials with a mounding or clumping form. Overview Botanical Name Heuchera Common Name(s) Coral Bells Plant Type Perennial Flower Native Area North America Hardiness Rating H6 Foliage Mostly evergreen Flowers Grown more for foliage, small tubular flowers, sometimes with colourful calyxes When To Sow March, April, September, October Flowering Months June, July, August When To Prune March, April Many or even most species provide year-round splashes of colour – red, wine, purple, orange, lime, copper, silver, gold…and that’s just the foliage! On top of this, many varieties’ leaves change colour from one season to another, often dramatically. Variegation? But of course. And there’s a bonus: most varieties bear thyrses of tiny flowers in summer; sometimes their colour matches that of the foliage and sometimes they provide an accent or complement. And that, in a nutshell, is Heuchera. It is hardly any wonder that these eye-pulling plants have exploded in popularity over the past 20 years, with a concomitant explosion in the number of varieties. While Heuchera has more than 50 species (not including synonyms), hybrids and cultivars number several hundred and counting.1 The Heuchera spectacle has a ‘feature attraction’ plus a ‘sideshow’ – the latter being the small flowers which set themselves well above the foliage, rising to twice to thrice the height of the canopy. As such, they are effectively a second tier of ornamentation. Each peduncle has multiple branches and each of these bears a panicle – technically a thyrse – of florets. These dainty things are very colourful in their own right, coming in white, cream, pink, and various shades of red. And they attract equally colourful butterflies and also bees. Heuchera as a genus is also informally called Coral Bells and Alum Root though this is not strictly correct as these vernacular names refer, or used to refer, to different sets of species within Genus Heuchera. Last but most importantly, in winter, when all else is dead or dormant, Heucheras in the garden can be a blessing, bearing proof of life and also displaying colours soothing to thrilling, and of every mood in between. Heucheras are native to and grow throughout North America.2 Moreover, their various species sprout in all kinds of habitat. Though a particular diversity of species occurs in montane regions, they are also found on river banks, littoral zones, forested regions, and even rock and crag. Habitat & Growing Conditions Genus Heuchera includes many strong and tough species that grow in many locales and conditions that are inhospitable for most plant life, such as rocky fissures, barren slopes, and canyon floors. Other species grow in more hospitable locations, such as wooded hillsides and grasslands. Furthermore, as they grow through nearly the breadth of North America and throughout its length from Northern Canada to Southern Mexico, different species are acclimated to very different temperature, humidity, and rainfall conditions. As a result, different varieties have different preferences and tolerances depending on which species they were hybridised or cultivated from. In general, H. villosa cultivars are hardier at both temperature extremes than H. micrantha cultivars. That said, as British weather does not get very hot – at least not the way it does in, say, the South of Spain – the chances that a Heuchera species or variety will be affected by heat are slim. Most varieties are H6 hardy – making them suitable for almost all outdoor areas of the UK. How To Grow Heuchera Heuchera can be planted or transplanted in spring or autumn. In general, Heuchera are as if tailor-made for borders, accents, and rock gardens. It is true that these plants provide superlative backdrops or foregrounds to set off tall, stately plants, for example a specimen delphinium. However, they are ornamental plants in their own right, and different varieties can be used for different functions in different settings. They can be presented in wide planters, used as touches of colour in the corners of a deck, used for year-round decoration on the balcony – the possibilities are limited only by a gardener’s imagination. Plant Care Some Heuchera, such as H. ‘Bella Notte’, prefer full sun or partial sun, others, such as H. ‘Citronelle’ are happier with partial shade or full shade, and yet others, such as H. ‘Green Spice’ couldn’t care less. The key indicator is the colour and shade of the foliage. The more purple or more red the colour and the darker its shade, the more sun the plant should get; the more yellow-green the colour and the lighter its shade, the more shade the plant should get. H. ‘Midnight Rose’ They should be grown in a light, loose, sandy loam. They should not be planted in heavy or clay soils. Heuchera do not need much care; all you need to do is watch out for a couple of “Dont’s”. Moist but well-drained soil works best for these plants from spring through autumn when they should be watered in the morning once or twice a week during dry spells. However, in winter be sure that the soil stays dry, and water it infrequently. Feed Heuchera lightly and sparingly, if at all. Do so with organic compost or with a 5-5-5 fertiliser. “Though I am generally not too fussy about clearing up fallen leaves in beds and borders, it is well worth taking the time to clear up any leaf fall around Heucheras,” says Peter Lickorish, Master Horticulturist. “Leaf litter can make them prone to rot or cause their growth to become distorted if it is deep.” Common Diseases & Problems In the main this plant is resistant to pests and diseases, except for two problems that do tend to affect it: vine weevil and a fungus now known as Heuchera Rust. Vine Weevils Though adult vine weevils are bad, the grubs are worse because they destroy the plant’s roots. Small animal life commonly inhabiting gardens prey upon vine weevils so these are your first line of defence. A biological solution is to release beneficial nematodes that kill vine weevils, such Nemasys Vine Weevil Killer. A third, chemical, option is to use biological insecticides, though this may also harm other beneficial wildlife in your garden. Look out for wilting during moist weather, or plants which feel loose and unattached, as signs of a problem. “I would strongly recommend planting Heucheras in the ground, where the risk and severity of vine weevil damage are generally lower,” shares Peter. “Containers are best if the soil is too heavy or for short-term seasonal displays and growing plants on, ready for planting as larger specimens.” Rust Heuchera Rust is a serious cause of concern in the United Kingdom. This fungal disease is not only destructive, but it also causes delightful foliage to become painfully ugly and riddled with depressions and pustules. To guard against it, sequester newly-brought Heuchera for a month, and make it a point to prune old or dead leaves in autumn. Planting in dense borders reduces airflow and could also worsen the problem. Heuchera Rust can be combated with several chemical fungicides. First, though, you need to remove all infected parts and incinerate them. References 1. Heuchera (Alumroot, Coral Bells, Heuchera). (n.d.). North Carolina Extension Gardener Plant Toolbox. Retrieved March 17, 2023, from https://plants.ces.ncsu.edu/plants/heuchera/ 2. Winter, N. (2017, January 12). Heuchera are native to the U.S. and an award-winning perennial plant. CAES Newswire. Retrieved March 17, 2023, from https://newswire.caes.uga.edu/story/6065/coral-bells.html
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How To Grow Gypsophila ‘Baby’s Breath’ - This Long-Lasting Filler Plant Will Grow Anywhere
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Habitat & Growing Conditions How To Grow Baby’s Breath Plant Care Common Problems References Those pretty billowing clouds in floral arrangements that we call “Baby’s Breath”, which set off roses and tulips, are actually tiny flowers of Gypsophila species and varieties. Gypsophila is native to almost Eurasia; only India and a few countries southeast of it are uninhabited by these plants.1 These plants are also native to South Africa and Northern Africa, and they have been introduced to the United Kingdom and United States, among other countries. Overview Botanical Name Gypsophila Common Name(s) Baby’s Breath Plant Type Perennial / Annual Flower Native Area Eurasia, Africa, Australia, Pacific Islands Hardiness Rating H7 Foliage Deciduous or evergreen Flowers Large sprays of delicate white flowers When To Sow March, April Flowering Months June, July, August When To Prune August, September Out of the about 150 species and several dozen cultivars that comprise Genus Gypsophila, several are well known to anyone who has received a bouquet and to most of those who have sent one.2 These varieties are informally known as “Baby’s Breath”. Gypsophila paniculata, a few other Gypsophila species, and their hybrids and cultivars make up “Baby’s Breath”. They are actually called ‘Gyp’ in the trade. Though Baby’s Breath flowers are commonly called a ‘florist’s filler’, the tiny blossoms are indescribably pretty accompaniments to the carnations, gerberas, and such that form the centrepiece of a bouquet. These dainty flowers are not of much importance individually but when massed, they give the effect of wavy, bubbly, billowing floral clouds out in the garden and even in a static floral arrangement. A good mix of varieties will provide blooms from spring to end-autumn. Each plant puts up a large number of delicate stalks which carry large panicles of five-petalled flowers. Though all varieties’ flowers are very small, their sizes vary somewhat. The colours are limited to white, off-white, yellowish, and tones of light pink-purple. Some of the reasons for Baby’s Breath’s popularity and ubiquity in bouquets and arrangements include: Even the cut flowers are long-lasting. In the garden the flowers are a big draw for butterflies and bees. These flowers have a lovely scent. Gypsophila is a herbaceous plant, and species and varieties are annual, evergreen, deciduous, or semi-deciduous. Habitat & Growing Conditions Habitat & Growing Conditions for Gypsophila species and particularly paniculata may be described as, ‘Anywhere and Everywhere’ to be concise, if not precise. These plants grow and spread in gardens, fields, woods, roadsides, ditches, sandbanks, pastures – just so long as the soil is not acidic. In this genus’s natural habitat, it grows on the steppes, in woodlands, on hillsides, by rural pathways, and in the poor, calcareous soils that are abundant in that region. G. paniculata Gypsophila grows in all kinds of soils to the extent that it is classified as an invasive species in many geographic regions of the United States and also in other countries.3 Almost all Baby’s Breath varieties are hardy to RHS Zone H7 – making them suitable to grow in all areas of the UK as perennials. How To Grow Baby’s Breath One might think that Baby’s Breath is not as widely available as popular plants, both perennials and annuals, but one would be wrong. Almost all Baby’s Breath varieties, to a greater or lesser degree, are available as potted plants from nurseries, many of which will have the plants delivered to your doorstep. Seed packets of some select varieties are also available. Where To Grow To be honest, Baby’s Breath is not a great plant for beds or containers though it is superlative for everything else. That said, if you are a floral arranger or do ikebana, then – of course – you may very well want to grow Baby’s Breath in a bed or two in your garden. It is ideal for texture and filler in the garden just the same as in floral arrangements, and is also an excellent choice for filling in gaps. “Although it is very well known as a florist plant, Gypsophila is also fantastic as a garden plant,” shares Horticultural Consultant Colin Skelly. “It can provide ground cover for a great space filler in borders or gravel gardens. “I use it between more structural plants, providing a more finely textured backdrop.” Not only is this ‘filler’ decorative, it somehow heightens the attractiveness of the specimens or centrepieces it surrounds or forms a backdrop to. The creeping varieties make for lovely groundcover, and both creeping and dwarf varieties are terrific in rock gardens. Baby’s Breath, along with small wildflowers, planted together will produce a charming, cottage garden effect. Sowing & Planting Sow Baby’s Breath seeds, of either perennial or annual types, in early spring in a sunny spot. These plants should be well-spaced; a good rule of thumb is to space them apart by about 90% of the variety’s rated ultimate spread. Once a plant is established it should not be transplanted or otherwise disturbed because of the thick and long taproot. Plant Care Full sun is best but partial shade will do; delicate varieties like ‘Flamingo’ should be sheltered. ‘Flamingo’ Soil, Feeding & Watering This plant does not take well to rich soils, fertilisation, or watering; where Baby’s Breath is concerned, ‘Less is more’. Plant them in chalky, sandy, or gravelly soil that is, preferably, Slightly Alkaline (but not at all on the acidic side). Water infrequently and fertilise sparingly only if necessary. Soil should be well drained – Baby’s Breath is especially intolerant of damp soil in winter. Pruning Most varieties will produce a second bloom if the plant is conservatively cut back after the first flowering. Common Problems The plant is generally pest-free. Stem Rot Occasionally a plant may be affected by stem rot or botrytis AKA ‘grey mould’. Stem rot is usually caused by bacteria. It is hard to treat but you can guard against it by mulching around the stem before the onset of winter. Botrytis Botrytis is a fungal disease. Promptly cut off the diseased parts or remove the entire plant if it is badly affected. References 1. Gypsophila. (n.d.). Kew Royal Botanic Gardens. Retrieved March 16, 2023, from https://powo.science.kew.org/taxon/urn:lsid:ipni.org:names:6285-1 2. The Editors of Encyclopaedia Britannica. (1998c, July 20). Baby’s Breath | Description, Species, & Facts. Encyclopedia Britannica. Retrieved March 16, 2023, from https://www.britannica.com/plant/babys-breath 3. babysbreath: Gypsophila paniculata. (n.d.). Invasive Plant Atlas of the United States. Retrieved March 16, 2023, from https://www.invasiveplantatlas.org/subject.html?sub=5682
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25 Gorgeous Flowers Gardeners Recommend To Sow Or Plant In April
IN THIS GUIDE Annual Flower Seeds To Sow In April 1) Alyssum 2) Amaranthus 3) Borage 4) Calendula 5) Cornflowers 6) Cosmos 7) Marigolds 8) Nasturtiums 9) Nicotiana 10) Poppies 11) Sunflowers 12) Sweet Peas 13) Zinnias Perennials To Sow Or Plant In April 14) Agastache 15) Korean Angelica 16) Astrantias 17) Comfrey 18) Crambe cordifolia 19) Lavender 20) Monarda didyma 21) Nepeta 22) Salvias 23) Scabious 24) Verbena bonariensis 25) Yarrow April is a busy time in the garden, as the weather begins to warm and we leave the frosts behind. April is a very variable month, and there are some years when it almost feels like summer, and others when winter still seems to cling on. But no matter what the weather is like, there is plenty that you can be getting on with in the garden this month. If you grow your own, April is a time when you will likely be sowing many seeds for your kitchen garden. But as well as sowing a range of fruit and vegetable seeds this month, you should also make sure you make time for ornamental and wildlife-friendly flowering plants too. Annual Flower Seeds To Sow In April In April, one of the main jobs will be sowing annual flower seeds. Some should be sown indoors, ready to plant out when the weather warms, while some others can be sown directly into your garden. “April is a busy month in the garden, with my greenhouse (the engine room of the garden) full to bursting, Colin Skelly, Master Horticulturist, says. “At this point in the year, many of the more tender flowers and vegetables can be sown under glass. “Some plants can sown outdoors, but those that need a warmer soil temperature should wait until May (check soil packets for germination temperatures and sowing times).” Here are some of my favourite annual flowers that you can think about sowing this month: 1) Alyssum Sweet alyssum, Lobularia maritima, is relatively easy to grow from seed in spring and will flower between June and October. It is a great choice for borders, alpine gardens, hanging baskets or planters. Sow indoors in March or April and plant out later in May. 2) Amaranthus Amaranthus is a rather spectacular and dramatic flower to grow and amaranth also provides edible yields – the leaves can be cooked like spinach. Sow indoors this month to plant out once the weather has warmed, in ornamental beds or borders, or in your vegetable plot. 3) Borage Borage is a favourite of mine. After sowing it once, it should self-seed readily in the right conditions and you may not need to sow it anew each year. Not only does borage have beautiful blue flowers, rich in nectar for bees and other pollinators. It is also an edible flower, great in salads and summer drinks. Sow borage direct in the garden, after the last frosts in your area. 4) Calendula Calendula can also be direct sown this month in the garden in many parts of the UK, or you can sow indoors to plant out a little later if you prefer. Calendula is another attractive and useful plant, which is great for you, and for the beneficial insects in your garden. 5) Cornflowers Cornflowers are very pretty additions to a mixed border, but as with the options mentioned above, can also blend in nicely and attract pollinators and other beneficial insects to your edible garden areas. They are lovely with other cornfield flowers. Sow cornflowers direct into your garden later this month, or next. 6) Cosmos These cheerful, colourful flowers are a great choice for many gardens. And these are one more seed to consider sowing indoors this month, in seed trays or flats, soil blocks or modules. Harden them off and plant them out next month. Sowing early indoors means you can enjoy their blooms over as long a period as possible. 7) Marigolds Marigolds are another flower to sow indoors in April to plant out in May once the weather has reliably warmed. These are another cheerful and colourful choice, and another great option to consider for companion planting in your vegetable garden. 8) Nasturtiums Nasturtiums are another reliable favourite, easy for anyone to sow and grow. They are really bright and really useful in a range of ways. These flowers can also be sown indoors this month to plant out after hardening off into your garden. They’re not only beautiful – you can eat them too. 9) Nicotiana It is not too late to sow nicotiana (tobacco plant) this month. These attractive and popular plants are great for a wildlife-friendly garden, and can flower from June right through to October. Sow between February and April indoors, then wait until June to plant out. 10) Poppies Poppies, like cornflowers, are attractive meadow or cornfield flowers that look great in many gardens, either as part of mixed borders, or wildflower planting schemes. It is best to direct sow annual poppies where they are to grow, in a sunny and open spot. Like other flowers on this list, they can often self-seed readily. 11) Sunflowers Sunflowers are another incredibly easy flower to grow. Whether you grow them yourself, or get kids involved, this month is a good time to get them growing indoors before you plant them out as soon as the risk of frost has passed in your area. 12) Sweet Peas Sweet peas can also be sown this month, either in seed trays undercover, or direct in warmer and more southerly areas. These are classics for many gardeners in the UK, and are an easy annual to start with if you have just been bitten by the gardening bug. 13) Zinnias Sow zinnias indoors in a free-draining medium this month, and plant them out in May or June. Then you can enjoy their colourful, daisy flowers for a long period between July and October. Remember, these annuals are not only great options for bedding and borders. They can also find a place as companion plants in your kitchen garden. Some of the options on the list above (borage, cornflowers and poppies) are sometimes included in wildflower mixes. It is worthwhile seeking out suitable wildflower mixes for your area as April is a great time to sow seed for a wildflower or cornfield meadow planting scheme. Perennials To Sow Or Plant In April A number of perennials can also be sown in spring, and April is a good time to start on that garden job too. Certain perennials can also be planted out into your garden this month, as the best time to plant many herbaceous perennials is either in spring or autumn. Remember, perennials won’t just enrich your garden for a single summer, they will return year after year. Here are just a few great perennial flowering plants to consider: 14) Agastache Anise hyssop is a great plant for bees and other pollinators, and a useful herb as well as a flowering plant. Sow this and other Agastache varieties in a seedbed between March and May before transplanting them to their final growing positions in early autumn for flowers the following summer. Or you can look to plant out pot grown plants in May or June. 15) Korean Angelica Angelica gigas is another dramatic and attractive perennial plant. You can sow it undercover between March and May, then harden off and plant out to enjoy spectacular displays between May and September which will bring plenty of pollinators and other beneficial insects to your garden. 16) Astrantias Sow Astrantias this month, then plant between May and September. They will add visual appeal to your garden from June through to October and draw in a wide range of wildlife with their pollen and nectar-rich flowers. 17) Comfrey Comfrey is a very useful plant to have in an organic garden and it can be rather ornamental too, with bee-friendly flowers. Sow seeds this month or plant out between May and September. Purple, pinkish or white flowers will appear between June and early September. 18) Crambe cordifolia This is a somewhat more unusual perennial to consider for your garden – it blooms with an abundance of small white flowers. This is another seed you can sow this month. It is not just ornamental but is also a very useful perennial vegetable crop. 19) Lavender Plant out lavender in your garden this month and you can enjoy the fragrance and beauty of this well-known herb and flowering plant from July to September. Bees love it, as do many other insects – and it is great next to a seating area where you can enjoy the lovely smell. 20) Monarda didyma Bergamot or bee balm is another great perennial to choose for a wildlife-friendly garden. Seeds can be sown any time from late winter through to spring. Pot up seeds once they are large enough to handle, then plant out in May or June for stunning red flowers between June and August. 21) Nepeta Catnip, or catmint, is another great flowering herb to sow this month. Sow this month, or purchase pot grown plants, and plant out in the garden in May or June for pretty flowers right through from June until October. 22) Salvias Salvias are also great long-blooming perennial flowering plants. Plant out this month or next, to enjoy blooms which, depending on variety, can extend all through summer and perhaps even continue as late as November. 23) Scabious Perennial scabious can be planted out any time between April and September. The flowers are great for wildlife, and pincushion flowers also make wonderful cut flowers. Existing plants can also be divided this month to obtain new plants and ease any overcrowding. 24) Verbena bonariensis Verbena bonariensis, Argentinian vervain, can be sown this month, and/or planted out any time between May and September. The beautiful purpose flowers, great for a wildlife-friendly garden, will bloom between July and October. 25) Yarrow Last but not least, yarrow (Achillea) is another great perennial flowering plant to sow this month or in May, to plant out in May or June. It can also be sown in early autumn. This is another of my favourite plants for a wildlife-friendly and beautiful garden.
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Growing Scabiosa (Pincushions) - 'Use Them In Many Ways And Across Many Garden Styles'
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Naming Confusion Hardiness How To Grow Scabiosa Pincushion Plant Care Pruning Common Problems References Rich in colours, profuse in blooms, low in maintenance, and charming in appearance – that’s the Scabiosa plant for you. As for said charming appearance, it is the result of the structure of the flower’s receptacle, florets, and stamens, which make it resemble a pincushion! What do you call a flowering plant whose blooms have such different and varying forms, shapes, and petal arrangements that you would need over a score of descriptions for them? You can call it Scabiosa. Or, to add to the confusion: Scabious, Knautia, and Pincushion Flower! Adding even further dimension to the plant is the diverse array of colours the flowers come in, ranging from white to near-black, and in tones pastel through brilliant to saturated. Overview Botanical Name Scabiosa Common Name(s) Scabious, Pincushion Flowers Plant Type Perennial / Annual / Biennial Flower Native Area Africa, Europe & Asia Hardiness Rating H4 Foliage Deciduous Flowers Pincushion flower heads with enlarged outer florets When To Sow March, April, May, June, July, August, September, October Flowering Months June, July, August Scabiosa species come in both annual and perennial types, with even a few biennials squeezed in between. As such, there’s a Scabiosa variety to suit every taste and every garden, from among its 68 species (which are typically under-counted) and about 240 hybrids and cultivars (not counting synonyms).1 The Scabiosa genus is a member of the Honeysuckle Family.2 Its species are native throughout the Temperate and Sub-Tropical zones of Europe, Asia, and Africa.3 They do not grow in Tropical zones except for a few countries in Central Africa but some species, e.g. Centaurea scabiosa subsp. scabiosa, grow in even the Polar and Sub-Polar zones of Northern Russia, including Siberia. The heaviest concentration of Scabiosa varieties is found in Mediterranean lands. Naming Confusion As for the various names for this plant, they are not exactly synonymous. There is some overlap, disagreement, and – that word again – confusion as to which name applies to which plants or which genus. Scabious used to be the common name for a set of loosely-identified flowering plants, and was – and still is – used interchangeably with the proper genus name, Scabiosa. However, the common and non-technical name ‘Scabious’ actually identifies a subset of plants from Genus Scabiosa, and a subset of plants from related Genus Knautia. And what about ‘Pincushion Flower’? Pincushion is a purely visually descriptive name that identifies many varieties of both Scabiosa and Knautia. The reason is that several varieties have a rounded, clearly convex, receptacle from which numerous and prominent stamens protrude, bringing to mind a pincushion. One can only hope that this little exposition reduces the confusion and certainly does not add to it! Where there cannot be any confusion is in what these easy-going plants would bring to your garden: gaiety, butterflies, that little bit of ‘something different’ and a riotous medley of colours all through summer and even into early autumn. Hardiness The great diversity in Scabiosa species’ habitats means, quite naturally, that they are adapted to different climate zones. Columbaria varieties usually are hardy from USDA zones 3 to 8 (RHS H5-H7) and Atropurpurea varieties from 4 to 11 (RHS H1C-H7). Caucasica varieties are native to a very wide range and this is reflected in their hardiness zones from 2 through 9 (RHS H3-H7). How To Grow Scabiosa In general, you can let Scabiosa ‘run free’ in your garden with other wildflowers for an Alpine Meadow effect. Then can be grown densely in beds or in ‘single file’ for colourful edging of walkways. “There are species with smaller flowers and cultivars with large flowers, taller and shorter species and cultivars,” shares Horticultural Consultant Colin Skelly. “This means that Scabiosa can be used in many ways and across many styles in the garden. I prefer to use them in meadow-style planting where their loose floral habit lends itself to the aesthetic.” They are also wonderful companion plants to set off other plants and flowers that would be focal points. However, the varieties are sufficiently different to call for very different treatments. For example, S. graminifolia would be pefect for a rear patch of your garden or lawn, whereas S. caucasica ‘Fama White’ could be used as clumping companion plants to set off a focal point, be it a rose bush or stargazers, and S. atropurpurea ‘Fire King’ could be given a small flower bed of its own or grown in pots on a balcony. No matter where you plant Scabiosa, they should be placed in very well-drained soil and get full sun. All Scabiosa species should be grown in early to mid-spring though the perennials can be started in early autumn too. As annuals, S. atropurpurea are grown by seed. S. columbaria varieties are usually propagated from basal cuttings and by plant division. S. caucasica varieties are grown by seed as well as from basal cuttings besides which they are also propagated by division. Pincushion Plant Care As extraordinarily low-maintenance plants, you do not really need to care, as such, for them. All you need to do to keep them happy is guard against some no-nos. First, they have a strong preference for full sun. Humidity and dampness play a large part in how well Scabiosa thrive – they do not prefer very wet or humid climates. Moderate or low rainfall and dry weather suits these plants very well. In general you can’t go wrong with chalky, loamy soils that have a neutral pH tending to alkaline. Soil must be well drained. Scabiosa like rich soils but cannot tolerate heavy soils or clay soils. Soil that retains dampness will cause the plant to start rotting – these plants are averse to shade and high humidity. Pruning As with virtually everything to do with this carefree plant, pruning is a simple affair. Withered blooms should be deadheaded; this will keep the flowers coming. If a perennial variety has become overly bushy or lop-sided, you may prune it by cutting directly above a limited number of leaf stalks. Such species may also be cut back in the autumn. Common Problems These remarkable plants are among the most disease-free and pest-resistant. This is another, and very important, reason that they are so low-maintenance. Only some species may succumb on occasion to powdery mildew. References 1. Scabiosa. (n.d.). Kew Royal Botanic Gardens. Retrieved March 24, 2023, from https://powo.science.kew.org/taxon/urn:lsid:ipni.org:names:14326-1 2. The Editors of Encyclopaedia Britannica. (1998j, July 20). Scabious | Description & Major Species. Encyclopedia Britannica. Retrieved March 24, 2023, from https://www.britannica.com/plant/scabious 3. Scabiosa. (n.d.-b). Plants for a Future. Retrieved March 24, 2023, from https://pfaf.org/user/Plant.aspx?LatinName=Scabiosa+columbaria
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