Growing
These 5 Pests & Diseases Can Be A Real Pain For Broccoli Growers - Here's What To Do
IN THIS GUIDE 1) Birds 2) Caterpillars 3) Cabbage Root Fly 4) Club Root 5) Mildew & Mould References Broccoli is a relatively easy crop to grow in your garden and you should find it relatively straightforward to care for if you place it in the right location. However, as with most crops, broccoli can experience problems with a range of pests and diseases. Some of the most common pests and diseases encountered when growing broccoli include: Birds Cabbage white caterpillars Cabbage root fly Club Root Mildews and moulds While there are also other problems that might arise, these are the most common broccoli issues for UK gardeners. 1) Birds Birds are, of course, wonderful in a garden, bringing a range of benefits to the local ecosystem. Unfortunately for gardeners, they can also sometimes become a pest problem too. Broccoli is one plant (along with other brassicas) that birds like pigeons often love to eat. If you do not take steps to cover your plants, they can easily damage your crops and can even entirely consume all of the plants you are lovingly trying to grow. If birds damage and eat brassicas in your area, it is best to cover your crop as soon as they are planted out, placing cloches, row covers or netting over beds where they are grown to keep them safe. Bird scaring strategies can sometimes work briefly, but won’t typically work for long as I find that birds tend to get used to them, so physical barriers are usually the best option. “For my brassicas, I use a fine mesh fabric over a frame with the bottom of the fabric weighted down to create a sealed-off enclosure,” shares Master Horticulturist Dan Ori. “I find good weed management before sowing and the willingness to live with a few weeds coupled with drip hose watering means that I don’t need to unseal my brassica enclosure very often, which reduces the opportunities for pests to get in.” 2) Caterpillars Caterpillars, particularly those of the cabbage white butterfly, are another common problem for Calabrese and other brassicas.1 Physical barriers are also the best way to prevent cabbage white butterflies and moths from laying their eggs on your broccoli plants. Cabbage white caterpillars and other caterpillars are another major broccoli pest and you can lose the entirety of your crop to a serious infestation. Cabbage white destruction In the case of a minor infestation, you may be able to pick off caterpillars by hand, but fine netting is the best option when it becomes a more serious problem. Placing decoy butterflies (made from white plastic, for example) is said by some to help – and companion planting can also aid in keeping down pest species to a degree. But a physical barrier is really the only sure-fire way to keep your brassicas safe. 3) Cabbage Root Fly Fine insect netting or some other physical barrier protection will also protect your broccoli from another major pest of this crop – the cabbage root fly. The flies lay their eggs in the soil below the plants and these turn into white larvae which eat the roots and can kill your plants. Covering the area, especially in the early spring, can help reduce the chances of this problem taking hold. 4) Club Root Broccoli can also be prone to fungal infection and one of the main fungal infections encountered when growing this crop is club root. Club root is a fungal infection caused by Plasmodiophora brassicae.2 It causes swollen and distorted roots on broccoli and a range of other related plants between midsummer and late autumn. This can lead to stunted growth, wilting foliage in hot weather, and purplish discolouration of the leaves. Growth and yield are typically affected, and plants with a severe case of this issue can die. I would argue that prevention is always better than cure when it comes to club root. Make sure broccoli plants come from a club-root-free source – and don’t grow brassicas in any soil where this has previously been a problem. Club root can be more common where soil is too acidic, so liming can help to reduce the chances of this problem in acidic soils. Unfortunately, this is a problem that can remain in the soil for up to 20 years. 5) Mildew & Mould Club root is not the only fungal problem that you might encounter when growing broccoli. Mildew and mould present on the leaves can also become an issue. Mildew and moulds are more likely to take hold when the environmental conditions are less than ideal, so make sure that you grow brassicas like broccoli in suitable soil and a suitable spot and care for them correctly. If such a problem arises, take steps to remove affected leaves or plant portions as soon as possible to prevent their spread. Remember, these are just some of the problems for which you should prepare when growing broccoli. Simple steps such as positioning plants correctly, good hygiene, physical barriers and crop rotation can help keep any problems from spreading out of control. References 1. Broccoli | Diseases and Pests. (n.d.). Plant Village. Retrieved March 13, 2023, from https://plantvillage.psu.edu/topics/broccoli/infos 2. McGrann, G. (2016). Plasmodiophora brassicae (club root). CABI Compendium, CABI Compendium. https://doi.org/10.1079/cabicompendium.41865
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Water And Feed Your Broccoli Plants Like This For The Best Possible Yield
IN THIS GUIDE When & How to Water Broccoli Feeding Broccoli In An Organic Garden Broccoli is a relatively easy crop to grow at home, but it is important to think about the conditions and care this plant requires in order to obtain the best possible yield. Broccoli is a relatively hungry and thirsty plant, so watering and feeding are two key things to think about when it comes to their care. Here are some key things to think about when watering and fertilising your broccoli plants: Water broccoli growing in the ground every 10-14 days or so in dry weather. Water broccoli plants growing in containers more frequently, making sure the growing medium does not dry out entirely. Try to water soil, not leaves, directing water to where it is needed. Reduce water requirements and add fertility with an organic mulch. When it comes to fertility, consider the plants’ nitrogen needs and how you can meet them in an organic garden. Read on to discover more detail on the above… When & How to Water Broccoli Broccoli does require a moist but relatively free-draining soil or growing medium. When growing in the ground, you will typically have to water broccoli deeply and well every 10-14 days in dry weather, which could be much sooner depending on your soil and local climate. However, when growing in containers or undercover, you will have to water more frequently and take steps to make sure that the soil or growing medium does not dry out. Remember, water requirements depend on a range of environmental factors, including sunlight levels and temperatures. So, how much water broccoli requires will vary depending on the location, the season and precisely where it is growing. Try to water as early in the day as possible and try to water the soil and avoid splashing it onto the leaves and other parts of the plants. Keep water directed towards the roots where it is required. Feeding Broccoli In An Organic Garden Broccoli will do best in a fertile soil, rich in organic matter. A good idea to take a no-dig approach to boost your yields of this brassica plant and reduce the incidence of any problems. Mulch should be spread around, but not touching the stems of the plants, upon planting. An organic matter rich in nitrogen will be ideal for these leafy vegetables. Companion planting with nitrogen-fixing legumes, or by placing brassicas in the ground vacated by peas or beans in crop rotation, can help meet the nitrogen needs of these plants. Where growth seems poor or when growing in containers, you can also give your broccoli a boost by feeding with an organic liquid plant feed, such as a tea made with grass clippings or compost. If you keep the basics of watering and feeding in mind, you should not find it too much of a challenge to grow this popular crop.
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Sowing Broccoli: Follow These Important Steps If You're Growing From Seed
IN THIS GUIDE When To Sow Broccoli Seeds 1) Choose Your Variety 2) Sow Seeds Indoors 3) Sow Seeds Outdoors Broccoli is a great vegetable to grow in your garden, whether you are an experienced gardener or a complete beginner. To grow broccoli from seed: Decide which type of broccoli you would like to grow. Sow seeds between March and July. Sow indoors in early spring or sow directly into the ground after the last frosts. Keep reading to understand each of these steps. Difficulty Easy Equipment Required Seeds, seed tray, growing medium When To Sow March-July When To Sow Broccoli Seeds Sow broccoli seeds between March and July, thinking about not only the conditions where you live but also about when you want to harvest your crop. 1) Choose Your Variety There are two main types of broccoli that you should consider growing in your garden. The first is calabrese broccoli, the type of broccoli that many are most familiar with if you’re used to buying this veggie from the shops. This is the type that forms larger heads that look like little trees. This variety is typically sown earlier in the spring and then harvested in the summer in the UK. The second type is sprouting broccoli. Sprouting broccoli is hardy and is often planted a little later, during the winter, in order to provide a yield in the spring the following year. It has smaller florets, which can be either green or purple, and it can be useful for providing a yield during the time of year when less fresh food is typically available. If you choose the right varieties and sow these at the right times, broccoli is a crop that you can be harvesting throughout much of the year. As well as harvesting the heads in summer and into autumn and florets from sprouting broccoli through late winter and early-mid spring, you might also sow broccoli seeds to eat as sprouted seeds or micro-greens throughout the winter months. 2) Sow Seeds Indoors Before the last frosts in your area, broccoli seeds can be sown indoors. You can sow your seeds into seed trays, modules, small pots, or soil blocks. These should be filled with a suitable seed-starting compost, which can be either one that you have purchased or one you have made. After germination has taken place (typically within a week or so), thin out or prick out the seedlings, leaving one per pot. A weekly feed with a general-purpose organic liquid plant feed such as a compost tea will help give the plants a good start. Once the seedlings are around 10-15cm tall with good root formation, they can be planted out in your garden or transplanted into larger pots for container cultivation. If you do decide to direct sow, it is typical to leave around 45cm between rows, or to grow one Calabrese in each square foot of space in a square foot gardening bed. Sow three seeds at each station, around 2cm deep, then thin to leave one healthy plant at each. Plants should typically be at least 30cm apart. Closer spacing will typically result in a smaller yield. 3) Sow Seeds Outdoors After the last frost date in your area, seeds can also be directly sown into the location where they are to grow. Just remember that pests like birds, slugs and snails can be a problem and can quickly devour young brassica seedlings, which is why I’d usually recommend sowing indoors first. Sow 3 seeds 30cm apart and when the seedlings emerge, thin these out to leave one healthy seedling every 30cm.
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Rhubarb Stems And Foliage Naturally Die Back In Late Autumn - Cut Back The Rest
IN THIS GUIDE When To Prune Rhubarb 1) Cut Back Dead Foliage 2) Remove Flowering Stems 3) Dispose Of Old Foliage References Rhubarb is a perennial vegetable grown for its colourful and tasty stems that can be harvested from March until June. “Rhubarb is great, as you can put it in the ground and forget about it and save money, rather than buying it from the shop,” shares Garden Designer Humaira Ikram. “Rhubarb plants also look so architectural and pretty.” As a perennial, the stems and foliage of a rhubarb plant naturally die back in late autumn as the plant enters its winter dormancy, in order to produce new growth the following spring. Pruning rhubarb is fairly simple if you follow a simple process for cutting back the plant: Fully cut back the spent foliage and stems to the base of the plant. Remove any of the flowering stems to prevent your rhubarb from going to seed. Dispose of the old leaves (despite common misconceptions it is safe to compost them).1 This process is explained in more depth below. Difficulty Easy Equipment Required Gloves, secateurs or a gardening knife When To Prune October to December When To Prune Rhubarb Rhubarb should be cut back after the current season’s growth has turned soft and died back. Here in the UK, this is generally around October to November, but can be later in milder parts of the country. 1) Cut Back Dead Foliage Once the rhubarb’s stalks and leaves have died back, they can be removed from the plant, leaving the growing tips of the plant open to the colder temperatures they need to receive over winter. This can either be done by cutting the stems close to the base of the plant with a sharp and clean pair of secateurs or a knife, or by pulling them gently away from the crown. “The advice I would give whenever you are removing rhubarb leaves is to try and twist the stems away from the base and not cut or snap them off unless they are too tough,” shares Dan Ori, a Horticultural Consultant. “This will help prevent rot and damage to the crown.” If not removed, the dead foliage will start to soften and rot which can lead to problems such as disease and crown rot. 2) Remove Flowering Stems Although not that common, rhubarb plants can sometimes flower during the summer months, especially after periods of heavy rain. These flowering stems which will eventually set seed if not removed can take precious energy away from the plant and cause it to weaken. To remove the flowering stalks, simply cut the stem at the base of the plant with a clean and sharp knife. 3) Dispose Of Old Foliage With rhubarb, only the stems are edible, so there can often be some concern as to whether the leaves can be safely added to a home compost pile. However, during the decomposing process of composting, the oxalic acid in the leaves degenerates – meaning they are perfectly safe to compost at home.2 References 1. Composting rhubarb leaves. (n.d.). Chicago Botanic Garden. Retrieved April 27, 2023, from https://www.chicagobotanic.org/plantinfo/composting_rhubarb_leaves 2. Are rhubarb leaves safe to put in the compost pile? (n.d.). Iowa State University. Retrieved April 27, 2023, from https://hortnews.extension.iastate.edu/faq/are-rhubarb-leaves-safe-put-compost-pile
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Remove Dying Foliage And Mulch Well To Successfully Overwinter Rhubarb Plants
IN THIS GUIDE 1) Move Pot-Grown Rhubarb Undercover 2) Remove Old Foliage 3) Mulch Annually 4) Divide Older Plants Rhubarb is an easy-to-care-for perennial vegetable that is widely grown here in the UK for its delicious and colourful stems. It has a hardiness rating of H5, which indicates that it is a hardy plant and can withstand a harsh winter and temperatures down to as low as -15°C. Caring for rhubarb over the winter period involves: Potentially moving pot-grown rhubarb undercover to overwinter. Removing any old or dying foliage from the plant. Mulching the rhubarb crowns with organic matter. Dividing more mature plants if necessary. This process is explained in more depth in this guide. Difficulty Easy Equipment Required Secateurs, gloves, mulch, spade, knife 1) Move Pot-Grown Rhubarb Undercover Rhubarb is a hardy plant and here in the UK does not generally need any winter protection. In fact, rhubarb actually needs a couple of months with temperatures close to freezing point to grow well. That being said, frost can damage any new growth or pot-grown plants, so it can be advisable to move any container-grown rhubarb out of a frost pocket or exposed site to the lee of a wall. 2) Remove Old Foliage In autumn, the rhubarb foliage and stems will naturally die back and become soft and tatty looking. After dying back, the foliage can be cut away with a clean and sharp pair of secateurs or a knife and removed and composted safely, as the leaves will lose their toxicity as they decompose. 3) Mulch Annually Being hungry feeders, rhubarb plants, whether grown in the ground or in containers, will benefit from an annual mulch of organic matter or well-rotted manure. This mulch can be added in winter or early spring and will not only help feed the plant for the growing season but also help conserve moisture during the warmer months. To prove effective, this layer of mulch should be 5-8cm thick and spread evenly around the plant, being careful not to cover the crown or growing tips, as this can lead to the crown rotting. 4) Divide Older Plants Over time, rhubarb plants can lose vigour or become congested, so they can benefit from being divided every 4-5 years. In winter when the rhubarb is dormant, simply lift the crown with a spade from the soil and split it into 2-3 pieces using a knife, ensuring that each new division has at least 1-2 new buds. “I like to use an old bread knife for dividing plants,” shares Dan Ori, a Master Horticulturist. “On big clumps, I use sharp two spades driven in back to back pulling the handles back and forth to prise the clump apart.” These new divisions can then be potted up or planted out to replace old stock.
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While Rainwater Should Be Enough For Rhubarb, It Is A Medium-Heavy Feeder
IN THIS GUIDE Watering Feeding Rhubarb is a delightful vegetable that can bring colour to your garden beds as well as a delicious harvest. If you’re wondering how to get the best out of your rhubarb plants, you might be wondering if you can feed them to help improve growth and yields. In this article, I share my top tips for fertilising and watering rhubarb growing in your garden. Watering Rhubarb requires free-draining soil but also soil that is continuously moist. You will have an easier time of irrigating this plant if you get your soil right. One thing you could do is to plant rhubarb in ridges or mounds to protect the crown from getting soggy. Water young plants regularly with 2-3cm of water per week. Established plants do not require as much water and in many regions of the UK, rainwater will be all the water they need. During dry spells and in hot weather, you will need to water rhubarb regardless of rain. As a general guideline, if the soil surface is dried out, you should provide more water. You do not need to water the dormant crowns in winter but be sure that they do not stay dry for a prolonged period. Feeding First, mulching rhubarb plants will lock in moisture and suppress weeds. In late March to early April, apply a 5cm layer of mulch but be sure to leave an open ring around the crown. Rhubarb is a medium-heavy feeder but do not fertilise this plant in its first year. For the second year onwards we suggest that you avoid chemical fertilisers and opt for organic ones to minimise risk to the crown as it is nearly at the soil surface. Apply fertiliser once in late March to early April. Sprinkle 2-3 pinches of granular fertiliser around the plant and lightly work it into the soil or use an organic liquid plant feed around the base. “Mulching can be the easiest way to feed your rhubarb,” says Master Horticulturist Dan Ori. “In autumn, I cut back all the growth to the base and apply a good layer of rich organic material like well-rotted garden compost. “Care should be taken when mulching not to cover the crown, as this can encourage rot.”
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Grown From Seed, Spinach Will Take 6-10 Weeks To Reach Maturity - Experts Share How
IN THIS GUIDE When To Sow Spinach 1) Acquire Spinach Seeds 2) Prepare The Final Position 3) Sow Seeds Directly 4) Thin Seedlings To 15cm 5) Keep Growing Conditions Right Widely grown here in the UK, spinach is a tasty vegetable that is easy to grow and care for. Growing spinach from seed is rewarding, but you will need to wait a while for them to grow, as the plants will usually only be ready to harvest after 6-10 weeks from sowing. To grow spinach from seed: Harvest or purchase your seeds. Prepare the soil, ideally looking to sow your spinach plant in its final position. Sow seeds at a depth of 2cm and cover lightly. Thin out the seedlings to a width of at least 15cm. Grow on the young plants, keep free from weeds and prevent bolting. These steps are explained in more detail (with pictures) below. Difficulty Easy Equipment Required Gloves, rake, compost (if growing in pots) When To Prune February to May or September to October When To Sow Spinach True summer spinach is sowed in spring, between March and May, though you can sow indoors or under protection from February onwards before planting outside soon after the last frost date in your area. Note: If you decide to sow indoors, care should be taken over pricking out, hardening off and transplantation. Transplantation shock can sometimes hasten premature bolting, or check the growth of your plants. To reduce strain, you can consider sowing seeds in biodegradable plant pots that you can plant along with the seedlings in your garden to reduce root disturbance. It can then be succession sowed every couple of weeks through spring. True spinach for autumn and overwintering is sown in August and then again in September. Perpetual spinach is also often sown in spring, and again in August or September for year-round growing (when protection is provided in winter in colder areas). It really can provide a harvest every single month of the year. 1) Acquire Spinach Seeds Harvesting your own spinach seeds is relatively easy, as during the height of mid-summer, spinach has a natural tendency to bolt and produce seed. To collect the seeds, allow the plant to produce flowers and subsequent seed heads and wait for them to dry out and turn brown, before harvesting the brown seeds. However, if you do not have a spinach plant to harvest seed from, spinach seed varieties are readily available from most garden centres and online suppliers. 2) Prepare The Final Position Spinach tends to grow best when it is sown directly in its final position, which can either be in the ground or in containers. Spinach prefers to be grown on fertile and moist, but well-drained, soil in partial shade. If growing on poor or heavy soil, adding some home compost or well-rotted manure prior to planting will help increase fertility and improve the soil structure. If planting the seeds directly into the ground, the soil can be prepared by removing any weeds and stones by raking the ground. If growing in containers, drainage holes must be present and a layer of gravel can be added before filling with a rich peat-free multi-purpose compost. 3) Sow Seeds Directly To sow spinach seeds, make a drill 2cm deep and sow the seeds thinly before covering over lightly with soil and watering in gently. If growing rows of spinach, it is advisable to leave a spacing of 30-40cm between rows. When sowing spinach in pots or containers, individual holes 2cm deep can be made to sow seeds where they are to grow before covering them over and watering them. For early sowings, cloches or fleeces can be used to help encourage germination and protect the seedlings. 4) Thin Seedlings To 15cm Keep the soil moist, and once the seeds have germinated, thin the seedlings to 15cm apart to allow those left in the space to mature in size. 5) Keep Growing Conditions Right To grow the young spinach plants on, ensure that the soil is kept weed-free and moist, especially during warmer weather, which will help prevent the plants from bolting. “You will most likely need to water this plant every day during hot weather,” says Horticultural Consultant Dan Ori. “Time invested in watering and weeding is well rewarded with a constant supply of tasty leaves.” After 6-10 weeks the spinach leaves can either be harvested when young to eat in salads or left to mature in size and used in soups and stir–fry recipes.
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Harvest Runner Beans For Their Leaves, Pods Or Seeds - 'Try And Pick Under 10cm'
IN THIS GUIDE When To Harvest Runner Beans Harvesting Young Leaves Harvesting Beans For Pods Harvesting Beans For Seed Storing Beans References Runner beans can be an excellent choice for both ornamental and food-producing gardens. If you grow them successfully, you will need to make sure that you know when and how to harvest them to make sure that none of the vegetables goes to waste. Read on for more information about when and how to harvest runner beans. When To Harvest Runner Beans The main runner bean harvest takes place, depending on the particular variety you are growing, between July and October. The more assiduous you are in picking the beans promptly, the longer your harvest period will be and the more runner beans you will get. However, it is worth noting that as well as harvesting the pods for use as a green vegetable as is the norm here in the UK, you can also consider harvesting a few young leaves to use in soups or stews earlier in the season. You can even hold off harvesting to get seed beans from inside mature pods that can be used as a pulse. Harvesting Young Leaves While you should not eat the leaves raw, cooked young runner bean leaves make a perfectly palatable cooked green or pot herb that you might add in moderation in place of or alongside other cooked greens in a range of recipes.1 While this is not likely to be a major harvest, you might think about taking a few leaves here and there before the main harvesting period arrives. Harvesting Beans For Pods The primary harvest can begin from July, depending on what variety you chose and when you sowed the seeds. It is very important to keep an eye on your runner beans and to harvest the pods promptly before they are fully mature, as once the runner bean pods mature fully, no further beans will be produced and the harvest will be smaller. “Young bean pods are also far less stringy than more mature ones,” says Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly. “I try and pick whilst they are under 10cm or so to try and optimise the tenderness of the pods.” It is important, for a prolonged harvest of the runner beans as a green vegetable, to pick the pods quickly when they reach around 15-20cm long, but before they start to round out and develop the seeds inside. To pick the pods, simply snap these off the plant, taking care not to dislodge the plants from their support or break the main stems. You will likely have to check over your plant every few days to make sure that you get them all and make sure that the plant continues to produce new pods. Once you have harvested the pods, these are typically chopped and, where necessary, de-stringed before they are cooked and eaten. You can also freeze them very easily for later use to make sure that none of them go to waste. Harvesting Beans For Seed The only time that you might not wish to harvest the pods is if you are growing a variety for the seeds, as the beans that form inside the pods can also be cooked, eaten and dried for use as a pulse. Some varieties are more commonly used in this way than others, so you may wish to seek out a cultivar that is particularly suited to use as a pulse. When collecting the seeds from inside the pods, you will have to wait for them to mature fully. These seeds can then be saved to plant the following year, or thoroughly dried and stored for use as a pulse. Storing Beans The easiest way to cook is to top and tail the ends, remove the edges and slice lengthways with a sharp knife into thin strands before boiling or steaming for 3-4 minutes until tender. You can even purchase a bean slicer that will slice and string the beans for you, speeding up this task even further. Runner beans freeze well, which is great, as you may well have more than you can eat fresh and there is nothing more satisfying than filling the freezer with homegrown produce to see you through winter. To freeze prepare the beans and blanche or add to a pan of boiling water for 2-3 minutes. Then transfer to a bowl of cold water until completely cool, drain and freeze in suitable amounts. Once frozen, they will keep for up to 6 months. “At Edible Bristol, we dry a lot of our bean crops and save a lot of their seeds,” shares Edible Bristol’s Founder Sara Venn. “We’ve made our own drying rack out of old coffee bags, which is really useful for drying out the seeds.” References 1. Bountiful beans. (n.d.). Kew Royal Botanic Gardens. Retrieved March 23, 2023, from https://www.kew.org/read-and-watch/runner-beans-kitchen-garden
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Grow Potatoes In Abundance: Chit And Plant Common Types With These Guidelines
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Common Types When To Grow Potatoes Chitting Potatoes How To Plant Potatoes Potato Plant Care Harvesting Common Problems References Potatoes are a staple crop here in the UK and a must for most home growers. Remarkably easy to grow in many parts of the UK, potatoes can often be grown in abundance, even in small gardens, as long as the right strategies are used. However, if you would like to grow potatoes successfully where you live, it is important to understand this plant, its environmental requirements and the care it requires to get the best results. Read on to learn how you can grow your own potatoes so you can enjoy your own home-grown spuds all year round. Overview Botanical Name Solanum tuberosum Common Name(s) Potato Plant Type Vegetable Native Area South America Hardiness Rating H3-H4 Foliage Deciduous Flowers White or purple star-shaped flowers When To Sow March to June When To Harvest July to October One thing that often surprises many people about potatoes is that, in the long history of the British Isles, we have not actually been growing and eating potatoes for all that long. For a starchy tuber that seems such an intrinsic part of the typical British diet, it may surprise you to learn that potatoes were only introduced to Europe in the latter half of the 16th century, and only after the 1750s did they become a common agricultural crop.1 Today, of course, potatoes are a staple of our homegrown diets and we can choose from a wide range of varieties to suit our different growing conditions and meet our different needs and wishes. Common Types There are three main types of potato, grouped according to the stage at which they are typically harvested: first earlies, second earlies and maincrop potatoes. Within these groups, there are of course numerous varieties to choose from. Type Common Varieties When To Plant When To Harvest First Early Maris Bard, Swift, Foremost Late March June to July Second Early Kestrel, Nadine, Charlotte Early to Mid April July to August Maincrop Maris Piper, Desire, Sarpo Mira Mid to Late April August to October When To Grow Potatoes Potatoes are typically planted in the spring, between March and May, but they can also be planted in summer for Christmas harvests. When precisely you will plant your seed potatoes depends on where you live and what the conditions are like there. The more northern or upland your location in the UK, the later you are likely to plant. The precise timing will also depend on which type and variety you have chosen to grow. “I can sow first early potatoes in late February on a south-facing slope in the southwest of the UK,” says Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly. “By the time the foliage emerges the risk of frost is diminishing. Harvesting can be begun in June. “In more northern or north-facing areas, delaying sowing into late March or early April would be recommended to avoid frost damage of emergent foliage.” Chitting Potatoes Before you plant your seed potatoes, it is a good idea to chit them. Chitting potatoes is the name given to the process of leaving the seed potatoes in a bright, cool area to form green shoots. The idea is that getting potatoes to sprout before you plant them gets them off to a good start and could mean an earlier harvest. To chit potatoes, around 6-8 weeks before you plan to plant your seed potatoes, place the potatoes with their eyes facing upwards in a bright but cool spot, such as a sunny windowsill inside your home or a porch. Chitting is not essential and many commercial growers simply won’t bother, but I still believe that it is a good idea – especially for earlier plantings. It won’t take much time or effort, so, unless you are growing on a massive scale, I would recommend it for home gardeners. How To Plant Potatoes The first step in planting seed potatoes is determining where you will grow your crop. You might grow potatoes in a container of some kind, such as grow bags or pots. Where space is limited, growing in a more innovative and space-saving way can be a good idea. However, in this guide, we will focus on growing potatoes in the ground in your garden. When planting potatoes, the process is pretty simple. Prepare your growing area. Place your tubers at a sensible width apart. Cover your tubers with soil or organic matter. 1) Preparing Your Growing Area First of all, you need to make sure that your growing area is ready and suited to provide the conditions that your potatoes require. The soil should be reasonably fertile, nutrient-rich and healthy, with plenty of organic matter. It should ideally not be too compacted and should be aerated and moisture-retentive in order to achieve the best results and obtain the best yields. When growing potatoes in the ground or in raised beds, you have two main options to consider – you can either grow traditionally in the soil or you can take a ‘no dig’ approach. The latter is my own favoured approach and is the method I use in my own garden. Traditional gardeners will usually prepare a growing area for potatoes by digging in organic matter, then making a trench in which to place the seed potatoes. Typically, these trenches will be around 12cm deep and be spaced to create rows spaced around 65-75cm from one another. In a no-dig garden, rather than digging in organic matter, we layer it on top of the soil – and rather than making a trench, we place potatoes on the soil surface, surrounded by layers of organic material. 2) Placing Tubers Once you have created and prepared your growing areas, the next step is to simply place your tubers in their growing positions. In a traditional garden, the potatoes are placed in the trench or trenches that have been created, sometimes on a bed of mulched material. In a no-dig bed, the mulch is moved aside and potatoes are placed on the surface of the soil below. However, in both cases, the spacing is more or less the same. The tubers are placed around 35-40cm apart from one another, in rows that are around 65-75cm apart. 3) Cover Your Tubers Once you have placed your tubers, it is time to cover them over. In the traditional method, you will backfill your trench with the soil that was removed from it. In the no-dig method, you will cover the potato tubers with layers of organic matter rather than soil. There are numerous different materials that you can use. I like to use a range of different materials, such as clippings and leaves, dried leaves or leaf mould, and sometimes seaweed. I then cover these layers with homemade compost. Whichever method you use, it is important to make sure that the tubers are covered with a layer of soil or organic matter around 10cm thick. After this, you should water the area well to ensure that there is enough moisture for the early stages of potato plant growth. Potato Plant Care Once you have planted your potatoes, it is essential to make sure that they have the right environmental conditions and care throughout the growing season. Potatoes are not too challenging to grow in most UK gardens, but it is important to make sure that the fundamentals of soil, sunlight and water are in place. Preferred Soil Choosing the right location and preparing your growing area well is only part of the puzzle, as you also need to make sure that potatoes have the nutrients they need as they continue to grow, throughout the growing season. This is why, whether you choose a traditional or a no-dig method, incorporating and adding plenty of organic matter is key. Another important factor in growing potatoes is a process known as ‘earthing up’. This simply involves covering up the lower portions of the stem of potato plants as they grow, which encourages more tubers to form. In traditional gardening, this means mounding soil around the base of the plant. Typically, when the plant emerges from the soil and becomes around 20cm tall, the soil is drawn up around the plant to create a ridge around 15cm in height. This process is then repeated a couple more times as the plants grow so that you end up with a ridge along your rows around 20-30cm tall. In a no-dig garden, you also create mounds along our rows of potato plants, but rather than earthing up with soil, you should use organic materials. This involves piling mulch and compost around the plants and continuing to add mulch as the potato plants grow over time. Position & Sunlight Potatoes should ideally be positioned in a position in full sun. Potatoes can grow in shaded positions, but the yield will typically not be as high and plants may produce more leafy growth rather than focussing on tuber production. It is also important to consider how other crops may shade potatoes in your garden as they grow. Think carefully about where the sun shines as it travels across the sky each day and throughout the year, and about the layout of your vegetable garden. Watering & Feeding Make sure that you give your potatoes a good drink after planting and then make sure that the medium remains moist throughout the summer growing season. Harvesting When you will harvest your potatoes depends on which type you are growing and the method depends on whether you have grown in a more traditional way or used the no-dig approach. In a traditional garden, you will typically unearth the potatoes using a garden fork, taking care to avoid piercing or damaging the tubers. In a no-dig garden, you can simply rake away the layers of mulch and compost to reveal the tubers below and pick out the potatoes by hand. Common Problems Unfortunately, potatoes can be prone to a range of diseases – the most worrying of which is late blight. Other issues include potato blackleg, potato scab and potato rot. Unfortunately, these can often cause losses when the summer conditions are less than ideal. If you frequently experience losses, choosing more resistant cultivars could be a good idea. References 1. Ortiz, D. (2022, February 25). How the humble potato changed the world. BBC Travel. Retrieved March 22, 2023, from https://www.bbc.com/travel/article/20200302-the-true-origins-of-the-humble-potato
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