Growing
Dahlia Watering Requirements Can Be Contentious - Here's What The Experts Say
IN THIS GUIDE How Much Water Do Dahlias Require? When To Water Dahlias The Watering Process Dahlias are popular plants to grow in UK gardens. These cottage garden favourites are relatively easy to grow as long as they are grown in the right location. “At the moment I am obsessed with dahlias and can’t get enough of them,” shares Florist Simon Lycett. However, they do have to be cared for correctly and one important element of their care is watering. Dahlias are not necessarily difficult flowers to grow and getting the watering right can be an important piece of the puzzle – read on to understand clearly just what your dahlia will need. Difficulty Easy Equipment Required Watering can or hose When To Water Throughout the year, especially during the summer How Much Water Do Dahlias Require? One important thing to understand when growing dahlias is that they do need consistent moisture and plenty of water throughout the summer season once they are mature. Another detail to remember is that dahlias like moist but not waterlogged growing medium. Maintaining this consistent water availability is a key component in growing these plants successfully. However, the water needs of dahlias will differ throughout the year and will depend on the location of the particular garden in which they are grown. “For dahlias planted in the ground, the soil conditions will play a key part in how often you’ll need to water your dahlias in hot, dry weather,” shares Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly. “Dahlias in sandy soil will need far more watering than those in clay soils, which hold more soil moisture for longer.” How much you will need to water will also depend on how much rainfall there is in your area and on the light levels, temperature and other environmental factors. The size and age of the plants will be important too, as June Nash from The National Dahlia Society explains: “Water sparingly at first but gradually increase this as the plant grows. “Each pot will eventually need to be watered every day, usually in the evening, even if it has rained.” You’ll also have to consider whether you are growing your dahlias in containers or in the ground. Plants in containers will generally need to be watered a lot more frequently. When growing in the ground where you live, you’ll need to understand the soil type and other soil characteristics because some soils retain water a lot more easily than others. “A good free draining compost is essential and I personally had some very good results with Dahlias in pots last year using peat-free compost,” says David Hall, the Nursery Manager at Halls of Heddon. “Dahlias need plenty of water without getting waterlogged – they won’t like that!” When To Water Dahlias Mature dahlias should be watered when the top few centimetres of the soil or growing medium feels dry. However, it is best when you are planting dahlias to avoid excessive watering too early. Tubers can easily rot if they are in saturated soil or growing medium. Don’t water unless the soil or medium is very dry. Wait until the roots have formed and become well-established before you start to water during dry periods. Once your dahlia has established a good root system, water consistently when the weather is dry and pay attention to drainage, ensuring that while moisture remains, the soil does not become saturated and excessive water can drain away. The Watering Process When you are watering your dahlias, it is important to remember that fewer deeper waterings are better than providing water little and often. This helps the plants develop deeper, healthier roots. How you water is also important, as well as the quantity and regularity of watering. One other important thing to think about when watering dahlias is where the water is actually required. Rather than sprinkling water from above, which soaks the foliage and flowers of your dahlias, think about how you can direct the water to where it is actually required. Water the soil at the base of the plant rather than the plant itself, so that the water can be taken up from the soil by the roots of your plant. Try to keep splashes onto the foliage and flowers to a minimum. By thinking about the above, you should be able to keep dahlias happy when it comes to their water needs.
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Cutting Back Box (Buxus): Establishment, Maintenance And Renovation Pruning Explained
IN THIS GUIDE When To Prune Box Establishment Pruning On Young Buxus Maintenance Pruning For Mature Box Renovation Pruning Box is popular for hedging and topiary forms in the UK and can be a versatile plant to use in a garden. However, while this plant is well suited to many of our gardens, it is also susceptible to a range of problems, including box blight and box caterpillars. The problems to which it is prone make it especially important to keep box as healthy as possible and to make sure we do everything we should with every element of its care. A healthy box is less likely to succumb to any problems and more likely to withstand any issues that do arise when growing this plant in a garden. Pruning is one of the things that we all need to make sure that we get right when it comes to growing these plants in our gardens. Difficulty Easy Equipment Required Secateurs or pruning shears, gardening gloves When To Prune Varies When To Prune Box When you should prune box very much depends on the age of the Buxus plant in question and on the aims of the pruning. There are three main types of pruning that you might think about if you are pruning box. The first of these is establishment pruning on young box plants, which is usually carried out in May, with perhaps some further work between then and September. The second is maintenance pruning to maintain the shape and form of box that has become established in the garden. This maintenance pruning is best carried out in August or September. The final type of pruning is renovation pruning on an older specimen or hedge that has become neglected. Hard pruning for renovation is usually carried out in May. Establishment Pruning On Young Buxus The goal of establishment pruning for young box trees is to encourage bushy growth and fill out the form of the hedge or topiary that we desire. First of all, when the box plants are young, the stems should be cut back by one-third of their length in May to encourage them to bush out. Potentially, further trimming might also be undertaken on these young plants between May and August in order to shape and train box to its desired shape, size and form. “Traditionally, Buxus is trimmed throughout the summer to maintain a tight neat, clipped appearance,” explains Bill Irving from Boxtrees Nursery. “However, we recommend minimal trimming in late summer when growth has slowed, as we have found this reduces the risk of box blight. “Looser-grown Buxus seems much less susceptible to pests and diseases.” Darren Lerigo from the European Boxwood and Topiary Society agrees with this method, especially when pruning for hedging: “Cut less often, once a year is fine, and get your timings right, pruning in September,” he says. “The second flush of growth will have finished at this time, so what you prune will stay looking pristine all through the winter, leaving you with a clean, clipped look for 6 months.” Maintenance Pruning For Mature Box Mature box plants are best trimmed to keep them in shape in the late summer. It is best to do so then, as by this stage the new shoots should have hardened off and growth should have slowed. The reason that it is best to avoid trimming mature box earlier is that if you do so, this creates a flush of soft growth that can be vulnerable to damage from drying winds, leaf scorch, hot sun and diseases like box blight. Pruning in August or September also helps to ensure that the hedge or topiary form continues to look neat and tidy during the winter months. Hedges are often trimmed freehand to maintain their shape. Topiary forms may sometimes have a guide framework to follow, though are also sometimes simply trimmed using a freehand approach. Taking your time and having an aesthetic eye is crucial when pruning to maintain a very neat form when growing box. This is a plant that lends itself to formality, though it can also be allowed to grow in a far more loose and natural form. “When pruning, go over hedges a few times, not just once,” Darren adds. “Box has a frustrating habit of folding the leaves down as you clip, flicking an uncut leaf back up into the air, ruining the outline of the shape you are trying to make, so go over it around 3-4 times. “This is extra work, but the hedge then looks amazing and draws the eye. “Remember, if you prune a boxwood hard it grows back, meaning that you can reinvent your garden regularly.” Bill also has some tips on what form to prune your box shrub into to help prevent and reduce the risk of box blight. “With these hedges, it is good practice to form a ‘batter’. “This is a tapered outline with the base as the widest point and allows light into the bottom of the hedge.” Renovation Pruning If a box hedge or topiary has become old, neglected and left unpruned over a period of time, it may have become weak, straggly and patchy and need more extensive pruning to put things right. Box can fortunately respond quite well to being cut back hard in the late spring. Potentially, you can cut the box back to within 15cm so that new growth will emerge and the plant can recover. This strategy is drastic and a little risky, but it can often have favourable results. After any pruning, it is a good idea to replenish the mulch around the base of the box by adding plenty of organic matter that will help to keep the box well-fed as well as offer it and the soil in which it grows some protection. “Mulching with wood chips or fine bark can be a good way to try to prevent box blight,” shares Horticultural Consultant Colin Skelly. “It provides organic matter and retains moisture, which promotes plant health. It also limits splash back onto lower leaves from the soil level, limiting the opportunity for blight spores to splash back onto foliage and spread.” As you can tell from the above, pruning Buxus is not really complicated, as long as you keep in mind the age of the box and what you are trying to achieve.
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Why Does My Wisteria Not Flower? Grower Chris O'Keefe Answers All
IN THIS GUIDE 1) Still Immature 2) Not Yet Fully Established 3) Exposure To Adverse Conditions 4) Damaged By Frost 5) Located In Too Much Shade 6) Growing In Poor Soil With A Lack Of Nutrients 7) Incorrect Pruning Wisteria is a popular cottage garden climber that is known for its beautiful flowers. However, a wisteria may sometimes fail to flower at all. “The most common question I get asked is ‘why does my wisteria not flower?'” says Chris O’Keefe, the owner of The London Wisteria Company. “This could be for a number of reasons,” he admits, “most of which can be amended and controlled.” Some of the most common reasons for a wisteria failing to flower are: Your plant is still too immature. The wisteria is not yet fully established. Adverse conditions in the previous year have impacted the developing buds. Spring frosts have caused the buds to drop before opening. Insufficient sunlight by growing in too much shade. Poor soil and nutrient deficiencies, such as a lack of potassium. Improper pruning. Read on to discover which of these issues might be to blame for your wisteria failing to flower. 1) Still Immature If the wisteria in question has been grown from seed, it is important to note that you will usually have to wait a very long time for it to flower. It can take as long as 20 years in some cases and even then the results don’t necessarily live up to expectations. Because of this, the plant may not yet have reached the stage where it will flower well and reliably, so you may simply need to have more patience or purchase and plant a named cultivar that is more likely to flower quickly. 2) Not Yet Fully Established Even a named cultivar that has been purchased and planted might not flower well, if at all, for the first couple of years after it is planted into your garden. This is completely normal and, for a year or two after planting a wisteria, non-flowering is not necessarily something to be worried about. The plant should begin to flower well and settle down nicely once the roots are properly established in the planting location. 3) Exposure To Adverse Conditions If you have a wisteria that has flowered well in previous years, the issue is likely to be different to the possibilities above. You will need to think about what might have led to the plant developing an issue with flowering when it did not have one before. One of the most common reasons for non-flowering is that the plant experienced adverse conditions during the period between July and September of the year before. Often, the issue is dry soil and drought conditions, which can cause the buds to fail to form correctly and to drop off. It is very important to make sure that it gets enough water through the growing season, especially during this crucial time of the year. 4) Damaged By Frost Another issue that may have arisen to cause non-flowering in a particular year is spring frosts, which may have caused some damage to the wisteria buds before they opened or caused them to drop off before any flowers could properly form. Frosts can also potentially cause flowers to become distorted and can prevent the wisteria from flowering completely if all of the buds are lost. 5) Located In Too Much Shade Another reason that wisteria might fail to flower is due to a lack of sunlight. If a wisteria is positioned in too shaded a location, flowers are unlikely to form. It is always important when growing any plant to check the environmental conditions that it needs and check that those are met in the planting location. A less-than-optimal growing location can cause a range of different problems, including the flowers of wisteria failing to form. 6) Growing In Poor Soil With A Lack Of Nutrients Sometimes, non-flowering can be caused by poor soils or nutrient deficiencies. For example, wisteria may flower poorly if there is a shortage of potassium in the soil. Those who are gardening on poor soils should consider how to address a potential lack of potassium. This could include mulching with potassium-rich plant matter or by adding other organic soil amendments, such as wood ash, in moderation. 7) Incorrect Pruning Human error can also be the cause of a wisteria failing to flower. Pruning a wisteria in the early summer or pruning too heavily at the correct time can cause problems. “It might be necessary to prune wisteria harder if it has not had routine pruning,” shares Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly. “In this case, flowering might take 2-3 years to resume to previous levels, but should return to consistent flowering once regularly pruned in late summer and in winter.” Wisteria is usually pruned twice each year, once in July or August and once in the winter, in January or February. This pruning is not strictly essential, but it will encourage free flowering and mean that you have a more regular display of blooms. Summer pruning allows light to reach young growth, improving the chances of flower buds forming successfully, whilst cutting back in winter restricts vegetative growth and encourages short, flowering spurs which make blooms more prolific. A wisteria that is as happy and healthy as can be is much more likely to flower well, so making sure that you pay attention to the overall health of the plant and caring for it correctly is important if you want to enjoy an abundance of beautiful blooms each year.
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Hosta Nursery Managers Share Their 20 Favourite Varieties To Grow
IN THIS GUIDE Expert Picks 1) Hosta ‘Allan P. McConnell’ 2) H. ‘Captain Kirk’ 3) H. ‘Cathedral Windows’ 4) H. ‘Devon Green’ 5) H. ‘Fireworks’ 6) H. ‘Forbidden Fruit’ 7) H. ‘Fragrant Bouquet’ 8) H. ‘Guacamole’ 9) H. ‘Gypsy Rose’ 10) H. ‘Hadspen Blue’ 11) H. ‘Niagara Falls’ 12) H. ‘Night Before Christmas’ 13) H. ‘Patriot’ 14) H. ‘Regal Splendor’ 15) H. ‘Sum And Substance’ 16) H. ‘Summer Music’ 17) H. ‘Victory’ 18) H. ‘War Paint’ 19) H. ‘Wide Brim’ 20) H. ‘Yellow River’ Other Notable Varieties Hostas can be excellent choices, often ideal for the shady spots in your garden you might otherwise fail to fill. They come in different colours, shapes and sizes, with cultivars too numerous to possibly give a complete list. However if you are looking for an interesting hosta for your garden, you might find the right one for you in my list of highly regarded options below. Expert Picks Before we get to my favourites, I asked some expert hosta plant nurseries about their favourite hosta varieties. “There are so many varieties, it is difficult to pick a favourite!” says John Plant, the Owner of Rewela Hostas. “I love Hostas ‘Hudson Bay’ because of the colour of the foliage and its size, but it is slow-growing. “Good standard varieties like Hosta ‘Liberty’ are up there with varieties like Hosta ‘June’, as they are always reliable, great to look at and easy to grow.” H. ‘Liberty’ Ollie Walker, the Nursery Manager at Sienna Hosta, also finds choosing one favourite a challenge: “At the nursery, we all have our favourites and these change every year as we collect more new and exciting varieties. “Hosta ‘First Blush’ has to be mentioned, as this variety has a stunning red colour up the stem and through the leaf and is a very interesting new hosta. “Another variety that is worth a mention is ‘Amalia’, as this large variety has bright yellow leaves and a wonderful green rippled pie crust margin.” Barry Ankney, from the American Hosta Society, previously owned a specialist hosta nursery and shared an extensive list of his favourites: ‘Autumn Frost’ “This variety emerges in spring with powder blue leaves and bright yellow margins,” he says. “The margin of the leaf gradually fades to white during the season. “This is a truly magnificent hosta and striking specimen plant that holds its colouration well into the autumn.” ‘Rainforest Sunrise’ “The leaves of this cultivar are solid green when they emerge, then quickly develop dramatic dark green borders and radiant gold centres,” shares Barry. “The thick slug-resistant leaves are heavily corrugated and cupped.” ‘June’ “This hosta is consistently number one in the popularity polls and for good reason; it’s a must-have. “It forms a perfect mound of gold leaves with a wide blue-green margin. “There is a third lighter green colour between the margin and centre of the leaf that often streaks to the midrib.” ‘Sagae’ “Spectacular large blue-green leaves with variations of creamy white on the margins make this hosta stand out in any garden setting,” says Barry. “The leaves are frosty blue in spring with a feathered yellow margin, whilst grey-green streaks are painted in the area between the centre and the margin.” Believe it or not, that’s not all. “We have over 550 varieties of hosta in our collection, and all have their own unique qualities,” shares Robert Barlow, from North Staffordshire Hostas. Some of his favourite varieties include: Miniature H. ‘Blue Mouse Ears’ ‘Lime Fizz’ ‘Hydon Sunset’ ‘Blue Mouse Ears’ Small to Medium ‘Toy Soldier’ ‘Hands Up’ Large H. ‘Dream Queen’ ‘Patriot’ ‘Sagae’ ‘Dream Queen’ Giant ‘Krossa Regal’ ‘Empress Wu’ ‘Sum & Substance’ See our list of hostas below – we believe each to be a great place to start if you’re looking to grow a variety in your garden here in the UK. 1) Hosta ‘Allan P. McConnell’ COMMON NAME(S): plantain lily ‘Allan P. McConnell’ HARDINESS RATING: H7 FOLIAGE COLOURS: white and green FLOWERS: purple SIZE: 0.1-0.5m in height, 0.1-0.5m spread Producing a mound of deep green ovoid leaves 8cm in length, each one with narrow white margins, this option also has bell-shaped purple flowers which are produced on stems around 40cm tall in mid to late summer. 2) H. ‘Captain Kirk’ COMMON NAME(S): plantain lily ‘Captain Kirk’ HARDINESS RATING: H7 FOLIAGE COLOURS: green and yellow FLOWERS: purple SIZE: 0.1-0.5m in height, 0.5-1m spread This clump-forming deciduous perennial grows to around 50cm in height. The leaves are broadly ovoid with ribs and are lightly puckered. The foliage is deep green and each leaf has a vivid yellowy-green splash across the centre. Pale purple flowers grow on upright stems in the summer months. 3) H. ‘Cathedral Windows’ COMMON NAME(S): plantain lily ‘Cathedral Windows’ HARDINESS RATING: H7 FOLIAGE COLOURS: green and yellow FLOWERS: white SIZE: 0.1-0.5m in height, 0.5-1m spread Looking almost like stained glass, the leaves of this hosta are rounded and ribbed, with interesting variegation. The leaves have wide deep to mid-green margins and central splashes of greenish yellow. The flowers, which are fragrant, are white. These are held above the foliage on erect stems in the summer months. 4) H. ‘Devon Green’ COMMON NAME(S): plantain lily ‘Devon Green’ HARDINESS RATING: H7 FOLIAGE COLOURS: green SIZE: 0.1-0.5m in height, 0.5-1m spread Growing around 50cm tall and 60cm wide, this hosta has shiny dark green leaves which are around 15cm long with fairly prominent ribbing. These plants are largely grown for their foliage but also have attractive little tubular flowers in late summer and early autumn. These are a pale purple hue, with darker stripes on them. 5) H. ‘Fireworks’ COMMON NAME(S): plantain lily ‘Fireworks’ HARDINESS RATING: H7 FOLIAGE COLOURS: white and green FLOWERS: purple SIZE: 0.1-0.5m in height, 0.1-0.5m spread This little hosta needs plenty of light – though no hot sun – and regular feeding to perform at its best. It has twisty leaves which are mostly white or creamy green, with dark green edging. Though it can be happy in a container, it should not be restricted to ones that are overly small. The flowers, which appear in July, are pale lavender hue. 6) H. ‘Forbidden Fruit’ COMMON NAME(S): plantain lily ‘Forbidden Fruit’ HARDINESS RATING: H7 FOLIAGE COLOURS: green and yellow FLOWERS: purple SIZE: 0.5-1m in height, 0.5-1m spread Another hosta with variegated leaves, this option can potentially grow up to 1m tall and wide. It has broad leaves which are yellow to pale orange in the centres and dark green to blue around the outsides. The flowers are lavender in hue and borne on the upright stems above the foliage in the summer. 7) H. ‘Fragrant Bouquet’ COMMON NAME(S): plantain lily ‘Fragrant Bouquet’ HARDINESS RATING: H7 FOLIAGE COLOURS: green and cream FLOWERS: white SIZE: 0.5-1m in height, 0.5-1m spread This clump-forming perennial grows to around 45cm tall. It has leaves which are broad, oval and slightly twisted; each one bright green with a creamy margin and deeply set veins. As the name of this cultivar suggests, the flowers are borne in loose clusters. They bloom in summer on upright stems that can reach almost 1m in height, are pale purple in colour and are fragrant too. 8) H. ‘Guacamole’ COMMON NAME(S): plantain lily ‘Guacamole’ HARDINESS RATING: H7 FOLIAGE COLOURS: yellow and green FLOWERS: purple and white SIZE: 0.5-1m in height, 0.5-1m spread A small to medium-sized hosta, this option has large golden yellow to light green leaves which are large, puckered and have somewhat darker edges. Above these mounds of leaves, fragrant white to lavender flowers are produced over the summer months. “I think ‘Guacamole’ is a great choice for a tall container near a doorway, as you can enjoy the flowers and their scent,” shares Dan Ori, a Horticultural Consultant. 9) H. ‘Gypsy Rose’ COMMON NAME(S): plantain lily ‘Gypsy Rose’ HARDINESS RATING: H7 FOLIAGE COLOURS: green, yellow and white FLOWERS: purple SIZE: 0.1-0.5m in height, 0.5-1m spread Growing to around 40cm tall, this hosta has broad, rounded, dark green leaves, each of which has a broad streak of pale yellow at the centre, with some thin flashes of white at the centre. Purple flowers are also produced on these plants on upright stems in summer. 10) H. ‘Hadspen Blue’ COMMON NAME(S): plantain lily ‘Hadspen Blue’ HARDINESS RATING: H7 FOLIAGE COLOURS: greeny-blue FLOWERS: purple SIZE: 0.1-0.5m in height, 0.5-1m spread The leaves on this impressive hosta have a distinctive silvery-blue sheen. They are thick and markedly textured, more or less heart-shaped in form. This is a small and slow-growing hosta which forms clumps around 25cm high. The bell-shaped purple flowers are definitely not the stars of the show for this foliage plant, but these bloom on erect stems in the summer. 11) H. ‘Niagara Falls’ COMMON NAME(S): plantain lily ‘Niagara Falls’ HARDINESS RATING: H7 FOLIAGE COLOURS: green FLOWERS: purple SIZE: 0.1-0.5m in height, 0.5-1m spread This hosta grows around 1m across and 0.5m in height. Its heart-shaped leaves are green and have deep ribs running down them. They also have distinctive wavy edges, creating the waterfall effect, and tips that turn downwards at the ends. Loose clusters of pale purple flowers are produced on leaning, leafy stems in the summer. Another H7 hardy cultivar. 12) H. ‘Night Before Christmas’ COMMON NAME(S): plantain lily ‘Night before Christmas’ HARDINESS RATING: H7 FOLIAGE COLOURS: green and white FLOWERS: purple SIZE: 0.1-0.5m in height, 0.5-1m spread Growing to around 45cm high, this hosta has ovate leaves which are tapered towards the ends. These leaves are deep green, with a narrow creamy streak down the centre of each one. The stems are white-streaked too. The flowers, pale purple, cannot live up to the foliage but are pretty nonetheless, held on the upright stems in summer. 13) H. ‘Patriot’ COMMON NAME(S): plantain lily ‘Patriot’ HARDINESS RATING: H7 FOLIAGE COLOURS: green and cream FLOWERS: blue and purple SIZE: 0.5-1m in height, 0.5-1m spread Clump-forming and perennial, this cultivar grows to around half a metre tall. The ovate leaves are puckered and ribbed, with irregular cream margins and mid-green centres. The foliage will remain through spring, summer and autumn, and in summer, the plants will also boast their spikes of funnel-shaped flowers, which are a lavender blue hue. 14) H. ‘Regal Splendor’ COMMON NAME(S): plantain lily ‘Regal Splendor’ HARDINESS RATING: H7 FOLIAGE COLOURS: green, silver, green and cream FLOWERS: purple and pink SIZE: 1-1.5m in height, 0.5-1m spread This hosta is large and dramatic, with deeply ridged deep blue-green leaves which have narrow margins around the edges of a creamy yellow hue. The edges become more creamy and lighter as the leaves mature. The bell-shaped flowers form above the leaves in the late summer and they are a pale lavender pink in colour. 15) H. ‘Sum And Substance’ COMMON NAME(S): plantain lily ‘Sum and Substance’ HARDINESS RATING: H7 FOLIAGE COLOURS: green and yellow FLOWERS: purple SIZE: 0.5-1m in height, 0.5-1m spread Heart-shaped leaves of a bright, vivid, yellowy-green colour set this hosta apart from many others. The large leaves stand out in partial shade. The foliage of this plant is definitely the main attraction, but the bell-shaped flowers also add interest, growing on stems 75cm long in the summertime. 16) H. ‘Summer Music’ COMMON NAME(S): plantain lily ‘Summer Music’ HARDINESS RATING: H7 FOLIAGE COLOURS: green, cream, yellow and white FLOWERS: purple SIZE: 0.1-0.5m in height, 0.5-1m spread Another hosta with leaves that stand out very well in lower light areas, ‘Summer Music’ has leaves that are light green on the sides with central markings that start out pale green and change to a purer white as the leaves mature. Some leaves also have streaking along the sides of this central area in pale green or gold. Lavender flowers bloom in loose clusters on upright stems in the summer. 17) H. ‘Victory’ COMMON NAME(S): plantain lily ‘Victory’ HARDINESS RATING: H7 FOLIAGE COLOURS: green, silver and green FLOWERS: purple SIZE: 1-1.5m in height, 1-1.5m spread The large heart-shaped leaves on this herbaceous perennial are a glossy greyish-green, with deeply incised veins and pale yellow variegation along the edges. The flowers are a very pale purple and these are produced on tall stems that can reach up to 1.5m in height. The plant can also spread to around 1.5m over time. 18) H. ‘War Paint’ COMMON NAME(S): plantain lily ‘War Paint’ HARDINESS RATING: H7 FOLIAGE COLOURS: cream and green FLOWERS: purple SIZE: 0.5-1m in height, 1-1.5m spread This hosta can grow to around 90cm tall, with a spread of 1-1.5m. Its heart-shaped leaves are rippled along the edges, with irregular variegation while the leaves are young. The centres of the young leaves can be cream to pale green and the margins are a deeper green, but this central area darkens as the leaves grow and by the middle of summer, the leaves are typically solid green. Lavender flowers are borne on upright stems in the summer. 19) H. ‘Wide Brim’ COMMON NAME(S): plantain lily ‘Wide Brim’ HARDINESS RATING: H7 FOLIAGE COLOURS: green and yellow FLOWERS: purple SIZE: 0.1-0.5m in height, 0.5-1m spread The leaves of this hosta are broadly heart-shaped and dark greeny-blue but with broad margins of creamy yellow around the outside of each leaf. Stems around 60cm tall bear funnel-shaped flowers with a lavender hue in the summer months. 20) H. ‘Yellow River’ COMMON NAME(S): plantain lily ‘Yellow River’ HARDINESS RATING: H7 FOLIAGE COLOURS: green, cream and yellow FLOWERS: purple SIZE: 0.5-1m in height, 0.5-1m spread This hosta has large green heart-shaped leaves enlivened by ridging and creamy yellow margins which are slightly ruffled along the sides. The bell-shaped flowers bloom in summer on thin, upright stems above the interesting foliage. Of course, I couldn’t possibly list all the great hostas that you might grow in just one article. However, all of the highly regarded hostas listed above could be great options for your garden. Other Notable Varieties H. ‘Devon Blue’ COMMON NAME(S): plantain lily ‘Devon Blue’ HARDINESS RATING: H7 FOLIAGE COLOURS: silver, blue, green and grey FLOWERS: purple SIZE: 0.1-0.5m in height, 0.5-1m spread H. ‘Invincible’ COMMON NAME(S): plantain lily ‘Invincible’ HARDINESS RATING: H7 FOLIAGE COLOURS: green FLOWERS: purple and white SIZE: 0.1-0.5m in height, 0.1-0.5m spread H. hypoleuca COMMON NAME(S): white-backed hosta HARDINESS RATING: H7 FOLIAGE COLOURS: green FLOWERS: purple SIZE: 0.5-1m in height, 1-1.5m spread H. ‘Paul’s Glory’ COMMON NAME(S): plantain lily ‘Paul’s Glory’ HARDINESS RATING: H7 FOLIAGE COLOURS: blue, cream, green, yellow FLOWERS: purple SIZE: 0.5-1m in height, 0.5-1m spread Hosta sieboldiana var. sieboldiana COMMON NAME(S): giant blue hosta HARDINESS RATING: H7 FOLIAGE COLOURS: green FLOWERS: white SIZE: 0.5-1m in height, 0.5-1m spread H. ‘Abba Dabba Do’ COMMON NAME(S): plantain lily ‘Abba Dabba Do’ HARDINESS RATING: H7 FOLIAGE COLOURS: green and gold FLOWERS: purple SIZE: 0.5-1m in height, 1-1.5m spread H. ‘Golden Sunburst’ COMMON NAME(S): plantain lily ‘Golden Sunburst’ HARDINESS RATING: H7 FOLIAGE COLOURS: green FLOWERS: white SIZE: 0.5-1m in height, 0.5-1m spread H. ‘Midwest Magic’ COMMON NAME(S): plantain lily ‘Midwest Magic’ HARDINESS RATING: H7 FOLIAGE COLOURS: green FLOWERS: purple SIZE: 0.1-0.5m in height, 0.5-1m spread H. ‘Antioch’ COMMON NAME(S): plantain lily ‘Antioch’ HARDINESS RATING: H7 FOLIAGE COLOURS: green, cream and white FLOWERS: purple SIZE: 0.1-0.5m in height, 0.5-1m spread H. fortunei var. aureomarginata COMMON NAME(S): gold-edged plantain lily HARDINESS RATING: H7 FOLIAGE COLOURS: green and yellow FLOWERS: purple SIZE: 0.5-1m in height, 0.5-1m spread H. ‘Helen Doriot’ COMMON NAME(S): plantain lily ‘Helen Doriot’ HARDINESS RATING: H7 FOLIAGE COLOURS: green FLOWERS: white SIZE: 0.5-1m in height, 1-1.5m spread
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How Adam Kirtland Uses Tulip Deadheading To Put Energy Back Into The Bulb
IN THIS GUIDE When To Deadhead Tulips 1) Find Tulips To Deadhead 2) The Deadheading Process 3) Compost Your Cuttings 4) Let The Foliage Fade Tulips are a wide range of flowering bulbs that bloom at the very height of spring after being planted out in autumn. Loved for their range of colours and forms, these are a real staple of any spring display. Unlike other spring bulbs, tulips aren’t known to perform as well in subsequent years after their first showing, but deadheading can give them a good chance to come back. Thankfully, it couldn’t be a simpler task: Locate the blooms that are ready to be deadheaded. Using clean secateurs or snips, cut off the spent flower head. Cuttings can be added to compost bins or to your green garden waste. Leave the foliage in place to fade & remove once yellow. We share the entire process (with a visual demonstration) below. Difficulty Easy Equipment Required Secateurs or snips When To Deadhead Throughout April and May When To Deadhead Tulips Depending on the varieties you have in your green space, tulips will begin to wilt any time between April and (as late as) June in some parts of the UK, but the standard time to deadhead is usually in May.You can begin deadheading as soon as you see the first blooms fade. To make it an easier job, it is often better to deadhead as you see each flower go. If you don’t deadhead your tulips, the plant will put all its energy into producing seed rather than back into the bulb in an effort to come back the following year. 1) Find Tulips To Deadhead Spent tulips can be slightly camouflaged if grown in a full border or in dense pots, but you’ll usually be able to spot the dropped petals before you notice the empty stem. You can wait for this to happen and then hunt for tulips that have lost part of the full petal set. A spent tulip flower is simply the stem of the plant, with the stamen showing after these petals have dropped off. 2) The Deadheading Process Once you’ve located your tulips to deadhead, you can either cut off the top of the stem or simply snap it off with your fingers, making sure to take the growing seed pod along with you. Ideally, you’ll be leaving as much of the foliage on the plant as possible to soak up the sunlight and provide energy back into the bulb. 3) Compost Your Cuttings Any material you’ve cut off the tulip can go straight into your composting system or into your green waste bin to be collected. 4) Let The Foliage Fade When you’ve deadheaded your tulips, the foliage will begin to turn yellow and fade. This helps indicate that your plant’s current season is complete and you can remove this foliage. Take care not to remove any foliage until it is fully yellow, as you’ll want to allow it maximum time to absorb energy for the bulb. When the foliage is yellow, this too can be cut right back to the base of the plant and composted. “I grow many of my tulips in pots that can be moved after flowering,” shares Horticultural Consultant Dan Ori. “I also plant tulips in pots that can be sunk in the ground and lifted after flowering to prevent having to look at yellowing leaves for weeks.” No other care is required for these tulips and they’ll hopefully be back next year to flower again.
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Feeding And Mulching Box: Here's How To Keep Your Buxus Plants Healthy
IN THIS GUIDE Soil Requirements For Box Trees Providing The Right Mulch For Buxus Feeding Box Grown In Containers Buxus, or box as it is commonly known, is often used for topiary and hedging. This evergreen is neat and dense year-round and looks lovely when clipped into more formal forms or when left to grow more naturally. Unfortunately, this shrub can be prone to a number of pest and disease issues, so it is important to make sure that box is kept in good condition, as healthy plants are able to better withstand any issues that come their way. It is therefore important to ensure that our box trees get the nutrients they need to stay healthy; feeding Buxus well can help with this. When it comes to feeding box, here are the key things to remember: Box takes its nutrients from the soil in which it grows, so ensuring that the soil is healthy is the foundation of any good feeding regime. Mulch each spring with a thick mulch of well-rotted organic material such as homemade compost, leaf mould or well-rotted manure. Feed box growing in containers with a balanced, organic, liquid plant feed once a month through the summer season, avoiding excessively high nitrogen feeds. We address each of these key factors below, with advice from our expert contributors. Difficulty Easy Equipment Required Mulch (such as leaf mould or well-rotted manure), liquid plant feed, a healthy soil When To Feed Spring or after pruning Soil Requirements For Box Trees Whenever we are thinking about feeding any plants, we always need to remember the fundamentals. Everything comes back to the soil since, of course, it is through that medium that the roots of the plant can obtain the nutrients they need. Therefore, the first step when feeding a box tree is to think about where you are growing it and whether the soil or growing medium in that location is optimal for the health of the variety you are growing. To learn the answer to this question, you also need to understand the soil requirements for box and what it needs to remain as happy and healthy as possible. Buxus needs soil that is moist yet free-draining or free-draining. These shrubs cannot tolerate remaining in a waterlogged situation and this is one of the most important factors in determining where they will grow well. Box shrubs thrive when in neutral to very mildly acidic soil, though they can be tolerant of a range of pH levels and can be grown successfully in many different soils. “The optimum soil pH should be 6.8-7.5,” shares Darren Lerigo, a Topiary Artist from the European Boxwood and Topiary Society. “The soil should also let the plants absorb nutrients easily and be free-draining so that the plant’s roots aren’t sitting in moist soil for too long. “If plants are in the ground and nutrients are required, apply a balanced fertiliser in the autumn to allow take up through the roots during the winter which will give natural growth in the spring. “Plants in pots will need regular low-level nutrients to replace those washed out due to watering: a liquid seaweed feed works well.” Before planting box in your garden, it is important to make sure you have amended the soil with plenty of organic matter to improve drainage and soil structure. This is especially important when the soil is a heavier one with poor drainage, but adding organic matter is always a good idea to improve the health of box plants and to make sure that they get the nutrients they need. Providing The Right Mulch For Buxus You should not only add plenty of organic matter to the planting area, but you should also replenish the mulch around box each spring in order to maintain soil health and keep your box growing strong, as Bill Irving from Boxtrees Nursery Ltd explains: “You should always water during dry spells and mulch to conserve moisture and suppress weeds.” In addition to this annual mulching, it is also a good idea to add more organic matter around your box whenever it is pruned or when work due to illness or pests has been undertaken. Mulch adds nutrients to the soil as it breaks down that can be taken up by the roots of your plants. It also creates something of a barrier between the lowest leaves on your box and the soil, which may help to reduce the spread of problems like blight. Mulch also helps conserve soil moisture in dry conditions and can suppress weed growth to a degree. There are a number of different types of mulch that you might use around Buxus, including homemade compost, leaf mould and well-rotted manure. “For mulching Box, I use wood chip,” shares Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly. “This breaks down to provide organic matter, conserves soil moisture and prevents the spread of fungal spores from water splash.” All of these choices offer a good nutritional profile and slow-release fertiliser for these plants. Keep in mind that feeding box trees too much, especially with high-nitrogen feeds, can be detrimental. An organic approach is always best and you may not need to do any more than mulching when growing box trees in the ground. If growth is poor, you can feed with an organic fertiliser such as blood, fish and bone in spring – however, this is often unnecessary and organic mulch will be sufficient to keep plants healthy and well-fed, provided your box is growing in reasonably healthy soil. Feeding Box Grown In Containers Box trees growing in containers require feeding a little more frequently and are fed differently from those growing in the ground. Of course, as with growing box trees in the ground, the growing medium should be your first concern. When growing Buxus in containers, a peat-free medium should be used. Remember, like good soil for box, a good potting mix should be moist yet free-draining and should contain a reasonable proportion of organic matter, making it reasonably rich and fertile in its composition. In addition to ensuring a good potting mix, which should be replenished regularly, box growing in containers is also best fed with a liquid plant feed every month or so during the summer. Make sure you use a fairly gentle feed that is not too high in nitrogen. A good quality compost tea may be ideal. As you can see from the above, feeding box trees is a simple process that differs when growing in the ground compared with container cultivation. It is easy to choose organic options for mulch and other feeds when growing these evergreen shrubs in your garden.
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Only Use Rain Or Distilled Water With A Venus Fly Trap, Says Ten-Time RHS Gold Medalist
IN THIS GUIDE Controlling Humidity Container & Soil Requirements The Type Of Water To Use Watering Methods References That exotic and somewhat creepy insect-eating plant that exhibits a gaping mouth and what seem to be sharp teeth is native to none other than the US. Lest we deceive you, that gaping mouth is nothing more than a leaf that is hinged along the midrib, whilst those diabolical teeth are merely interlocking spines. However, try telling that to the flies that meet their ends inside this plant’s foliage! The hinged, toothed leaf plus the bait of nectar inside it combine to make the trap. This nominally carnivorous plant survives in the wild in only a sliver of coastal land in North and South Carolina.1 In this guide, we explain how to water these plants when growing them inside your home in a pot or other container. Note that we’ve collaborated especially with Nigel Hewitt-Cooper, the Owner of Hewitt-Cooper Carnivorous Plants and ten-time RHS Gold Medalist. Difficulty Medium Equipment Required Rain or distilled water, watering can fitted with a rose When To Water Every 2-3 days in the warmer seasons, less frequently in winter Controlling Humidity The prime habitat of Dionaea muscipula, to call it by its botanical name, is damp, mossy, pine savannah which is sometimes boggy or marshy. As you may infer, it is a moisture and humidity-loving plant. These plants, which are hardy to only H3, are usually kept as houseplants in the UK. The air in most interiors is insufficiently humid for Venus fly traps and they may suffer as a result of the dry atmosphere. So if you have a humidifier going in the room where you may keep your Venus fly traps, this is more than ideal. Otherwise, be sure to fine-mist them every two or three days to keep them in tip-top fly-trapping shape. Indeed, even if these plants are kept outside during balmy weather, if you suspect that the atmosphere is on the dry side, lightly mist the plants. It will not hurt and can only help. If you mist, do so before noon, preferably in the mid-morning. Container & Soil Requirements Before we get to the nitty-gritty of watering Venus fly traps, it is important to look into the types of containers and soil you’re growing them in because, if the container or the soil is of the wrong kind, watering correctly will be of little value. The most suitable type of pot is a circular, squat, shallow type with multiple drainage holes. Pots made of natural stone are best for these sensitive plants. Venus fly traps thrive in soil that is damp and acidic but poor in nutrients for the obvious reason that these plants entice and grab their own food. With this in mind, do not use potting soil or ericaceous compost for the growing medium or any type of overly-rich, fertile soil. Procure a special potting mix for carnivorous plants made by a reputable manufacturer or make your own. The Type Of Water To Use The first rule of watering is that these plants require pure water: never use tap water. Venus fly traps react poorly to the chemicals found in tap water. “The mineral content of tap water is high enough to cause root burn, similarly to how too much chemical fertiliser can damage the roots of garden plants,” says Kevin Zhang from the Mid-Atlantic Carnivorous Plant Society. “If you can give a carnivorous plant mineral-free water, that’s 90% of the path to success.” “Use a water butt connected to a down pipe to store rainwater,” says Colin Skelly, a Master Horticulturist. “Even a small water butt will provide enough rain water for all your houseplant needs.” The best choice is rainwater, but if that is not available, you can use distilled water. “Keep wet with rainwater, as hard water, which flows from the taps of the majority in the UK, is poisonous to carnivorous plants,” shares Nigel Hewitt-Cooper, the owner of Hewitt-Cooper Carnivorous Plants. “Unless your water is soft, with a Parts per million (ppm) of under 50, rainwater must be used.” If you wish, you can always slightly acidify pH-neutral distilled water with a little hydrogen peroxide solution. Watering Methods The aim, except during the winter months, is to keep the medium in a continuously moist state by not letting it dry out completely. There are two ways to accomplish this. 1) Regular Watering The first way is by regular watering. Use a small watering can that is fitted with a rose so that the soil is not disturbed, especially as you will be watering frequently. It is better to water in lower volume but to do so often than to water deeply with prolonged gaps. How much and how often you water depends on the sun-shade mix the container is placed in and the weather. In general, making the soil moist once every two or three days is a good plan. However, if your container is sited in full sun and you are having a spell of hot, dry weather, you should be watering daily. Reduce both the volume and frequency during winter but be sure to keep watering, as this is an evergreen plant and needs water year-round. 2) Bottom Watering The second method is to place the pot in a tray of water with the water level coming up to about one-third of the way up the pot. This style of bottom moisture somewhat replicates the boggy, marshy conditions of these plants’ native habitat. The pot must have multiple drainage holes or even side slits for this method to work. Keep an eye on the water level of the tray and replenish it as needed and do not allow it to fall lower than a couple of centimetres. We suggest a ‘best-of-both-worlds’ practice. Water the plants with a watering can (as outlined above) for ten days and then place the pot in a tray for ten days, alternating between the two styles. This type of alternation will mimic the Venus fly trap’s native habitat’s conditions even better and will suit this moisture-loving plant entirely. References 1. Dionaea muscipula. (n.d.). U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service. Retrieved April 20, 2023, from https://www.fws.gov/species/venus-fly-trap-dionaea-muscipula
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Nepenthes ‘Pitcher Plant’ Care With Carnivorous Growers: Don't Neglect These Factors
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Common Varieties How To Grow Nepenthes Pitcher Plant Care References Surely the runaway top choice for a plant to take a leading role in a hair-raising horror film is one of the monster-like pitcher plants. These true blue carnivores of the Plant Kingdom, over and above insects, relish even small birds and rats!1 In this guide, we’ve collaborated with some of the top experts on carnivorous plants and the Nepenthes genus, including Peter Walker, the Owner of Wack’s Wicked Plants. “I love the shapes, colours and variations of carnivorous plants,” Peter Walker shares. “The general look of them, their diversity, the trapping mechanism, how they function, how they evolved and their hardiness are all reasons why I’m so passionate about growing them.” Overview Botanical Name Nepenthes Common Name(s) Pitcher Plant, Monkey Cup Plant Type Perennial Native Area Belt of ocean-separated land stretching from Madagascar in the west and eastern Australia in the east, and spanning South-East Asia and the South China Seas Archipelago Hardiness Rating H1A-H1C Foliage Evergreen Flowers Insignificant flowers in small green-pink racemes From the steamy, tropical rainforests of Indonesia to the moist, cool highlands of the Philippines, this plant caused quite a stir in Europe a couple of centuries ago due to its ability to eat small mammals.2 What’s more, one or two of the biggest Nepenthes species, such as the recently-discovered Nepenthes attenboroughii and Nepenthes rajah, catch and consume rodents and even lizards.3 However, the majority of the species trap and digest insects small and large. Attracted by nectar, the insects fall into the pitcher, drown in the fluid and are digested by enzymes.4 A few of the larger Pitcher Plant species entice shrews or bats to feed or rest on (or inside) the pitcher. The faeces or guano excreted by these small mammals serves to feed these unusual species.5 Different species exhibit pitchers of somewhat different shapes and hues. Some species’ pitchers do indeed resemble pitchers – while others are more elongated – and some are even short and plump, appearing more jug-like. In many species, upper pitchers and lower pitchers on a plant are distinctly shaped. For the most part, pitchers are a little broader at the base and a little narrower at the neck; the clear majority of species have a lid on the pitcher. Pitchers are seen in a wonderful assortment of colour tones in greens, oranges, reds and browns. They are often gradated, bi-coloured, striped, speckled or blotched. The pitchers typically are held up by tendrils that descend from the tips of the leaves. According to data from Kew Royal Botanic Gardens, 179 Nepenthes species inhabit undisturbed wilderness in a belt of ocean-separated land stretching from Madagascar to Southeast Asia.6 All are fully tender evergreen perennials. Common Varieties “I love all carnivorous plants, but if I had to choose, I would say that I have a particular fondness for the tropical pitcher plants,” says Kevin. “There are numerous species and the pitcher morphology is extremely diverse. “Some pitchers are like dainty cups the size of a thimble, while others can hold a gallon of water and are capable of drowning rats. “Many of the pitchers also have vibrant colours and delicate patterns. “I especially love Nepenthes ampullaria and its hybrids, which have round, tubby pitchers that can carpet the ground. “Although some species of this genus can be hard to grow, requiring temperature drops at night and high humidity, a lot of the hybrids can be grown easily on a windowsill.” The aforementioned Attenborough’s pitcher plant is, unfortunately, critically endangered, as are nine other species.7 A limited number of varieties are available, though albeit not in the same way Begonias or Carnations are available at every corner garden centre. Speciality nurseries stock some varieties of Nepenthes, with Nepenthes alata being the easiest to find. This plant is often kept as a houseplant and can also be grown in hanging baskets. N. alata Its pitchers are 18-22cm high and show a range of tones in greens and reds, including intermingled green and red tones and flushes. Nepenthes hybrider ‘Blood Red’ and Nepenthes sanguinea hybrid are two other varieties that can relatively easily be sourced in the UK. ‘Blood Red’ has pitchers that are light green at the base and reddish in the upper two-thirds, progressively becoming dark red. Those of Nepenthes sanguinea are rather more of a dusky red hue. “I enjoy lowland Nepenthes because they are easy for me to grow in my region and they can get massive traps and come in a variety of colours,” shares Kenny. N. bicalcarata “My favourite species is Nepenthes bicalcarata which has two fangs which drip nectar, which makes it appear that the plant is salivating.” All three varieties’ pitchers have an elongated shape that is just slightly bulbous at the base. Not quite as easy to find but still possible to locate in the UK are RHS Award of Garden Merit winners ‘Rebecca Soper’, ‘Bill Bailey’ and Nepenthes × hookeriana. The first cultivar is especially vigorous and can reach 75cm. Its pitchers are 12-15cm long and are of a plum to brownish-red hue. N. ‘Rebecca Soper’ The second cultivar is also a vigorous one with pitchers that are about 10cm and are of a deep red to maroon hue with speckled interiors. The third one, a hybrid, is comparatively huge at nearly 3m tall and 70cm wide and is also a climbing vine and really needs to be rooted in open ground, for which reason British gardeners can only take a chance on it if they have a conservatory or greenhouse. Nepenthes x hookeriana Its pitchers are comparatively little at 10-11cm but they are really eye-catching, sporting deep red speckles and markings on the light green ground in greatly varying balances of red and green. Though Nepenthes ventricosa is hard to find, it is a relatively not-so-tender and vigorous species that is adaptable to temperate conditions. How To Grow Nepenthes Considering the sizeable number of Nepenthes species, the steadily increasing numbers of hybrids and cultivars and their somewhat different native habitats, it is not possible to provide one size fits all growing guidance. Also, quite a few species, including most of the lowland species, would be quite impossible to grow in British gardens. As such, our plant care guidelines relate to the varieties named in the previous section. In general, the highland species and their derivative hybrids and cultivars are possible to grow with some fuss and care in temperate climes, provided they are positioned correctly and the conditions are not very adverse. In the UK, Nepenthes may be grown as a houseplant, rooted in nutrient-poor loam. They may be kept outdoors during warm weather in a sheltered spot in attenuated sunlight. “If you want to grow Nepenthes outside in the summer months, you can plant up pots that can be moved in and out of glasshouse or conservatory,” shares Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly. They need to be regularly watered except in winter, when watering should be reduced. Humidity is very important to Nepenthes’ health and in dry weather, it is wise to mist it regularly. The aforementioned varieties may be propagated via basal stem cuttings in February, except for Nepenthes × hookeriana, for which April to May is a more suitable timeframe. Pitcher Plant Care Our pitcher plant care guidelines are spelt out under factor-specific headings underneath. Light Exposure The best type of light for Nepenthes is ample sunlight, usually six hours or more, but it should be filtered, diffused or dappled, such as sunlight coming through a gauze curtain, through textured glass or through the foliage of a tree or a climber. In my opinion, textured glass is a terrific way to achieve the objective. It is easy, affordable and decorative. It is also adjustable, as textured glass is available in a choice of translucencies and thicknesses. In the absence of such kinds of indirect sunlight, a few hours of early morning sun followed by some bright shade will serve these plants’ needs quite well. Humidity & Temperature The pitcher plant varieties identified above will thrive in temperatures between 21-28°C during the day and 14-18°C during the night. Though the temperature may cross the upper limits it should really not fall below the lower limits. Nepenthes × hookeriana requires even warmer temperatures. All pitcher plants require more humid conditions than most other plants, so the dry atmosphere of most homes (or even conservatories) may be problematic. It would be best to run a humidifier for several hours every other day near where you keep your pitcher plants. A second option is religiously to mist these plants every day or two – it should be a very fine mist and should be done during mid-morning. Another very important factor is ventilation and air movement. A pitcher plant should not be put in a spot where the air is stale and where the air movement is impaired. It should be in a well-ventilated spot that has good airflow, such as near an open window. I find you can improve ventilation by running a small table fan at a slow speed for a few hours a day, placed 2-2.5m from the plants. Watering The first rule of watering relates to the kind of water. You should not use tap water for these plants, as the salts present in tap water are toxic to these exotics. For the same reason, bottled mineral water is also to be avoided. “The most common problems with these plants is that people use rainwater or forget to water frequently,” shares Peter. “They are bog plants and need to be kept wet constantly.” With Peter’s advice in mind, water in moderation but frequently. The soil must be kept continuously moist, but should never be waterlogged and certainly not dry. During winter, watering needs are somewhat reduced, but even then the soil should not be allowed to dry out. Water using a watering can that is fitted with a rose. If the plant is located indoors, keep an eye on the pitchers as they may well dry out. If any pitcher is even nearly empty, use a dropper to replenish it with water to about a third of its height. Soil Requirements Nepenthes require acidic, low-nutrient soil with very good drainage. They should not be grown in normal garden soil or any type of commercial compost. If you can find Nepenthes soil mix made by a reputable manufacturer, I’d suggest you use that. Otherwise make your own using equal parts of the three components listed below, with a choice of components in the first two sets: Peat moss, pine bark or fir bark. Coco coir or sphagnum moss. Perlite. Do not substitute a component in one set for that in another set. Another option is to get orchid potting mix. As for pots, the best type of material for these plants, what with their very particular requirements, is natural stone. Plastic pots will not breathe and may lock in dampness, considering how frequently these plants need to be watered, while clay pots may leach salts and ions which, over time, could lead to buildup that may be toxic for pitcher plants. Feeding You may need to feed Nepenthes, except not in the manner you would feed other plants, as they should not be fertilised at all. Out on the porch or even in the home, provided it is not hermetically sealed, pitcher plants will feed themselves by trapping the odd fly or other insects. It is definitely preferable for these plants to be located in a place which offers a fair number of insects, whether they’re flying, crawling or both. In a conservatory, these plants may be unwittingly put on a diet. In such a case, drop a freshly-dead housefly or similar-sized insect, be it from the home or the garden, into a pitcher. The insect should not have been killed with any pesticide. Feed pitcher plants in this manner by dropping in two small insects in two pitchers every two days or so, but only if insects are not present in the plants’ location and surroundings. Houseflies and crickets are good choices. Do not put anything, food or otherwise, other than an insect into a pitcher. Repotting Nepenthes plants will not need to be potted on due to nutrient consumption or deficiency, as they do not consume soil nutrients and prefer nutrient-poor soil to begin with. A plant will need potting up only if it outgrows the pot it is in. Pitcher plant growth is highly variable as it is strongly dependent on environmental conditions. If you observe the roots emerging from the bottom of the pot or the plant is clearly too big for its container, promptly pot up to the next-higher-sized container. Another reason to re-pot a pitcher plant may be soil degradation or decomposition. Pitcher plant roots are very delicate, so potting on is a dodgy operation. Water the plant and remove it with the caked soil and promptly plant it in the prepared pot. Scatter the soil around and over the roots and merely dab it down without exerting any pressure on it and tap the pot on the ground to settle the medium. Water in the plant. Pruning Pitcher plants do not require pruning as such. However, you might notice that over time a pitcher starts going brown and begins to wither. This occurs after a pitcher has trapped and consumed a few or several insects. Snip off such a pitcher at its tendril’s attachment to the leaf. Overwintering Pitcher plants are evergreens and do not enter dormancy in winter. They should not be confused with Sarracenia or the American Pitcher Plant which does enter winter dormancy. You need to do nothing different during winter, just ensure that all the care guidelines laid out above are met. Of course, pitcher plants may not be kept outside even during cool spring or autumn weather, let alone in winter. Common Problems In the UK, all you really need to watch out for are aphids and mealybugs. They can catch fungal diseases, but not if the aforementioned care guidelines are scrupulously followed, particularly the issue of ventilation and air movement. Aphids and mealybugs are not difficult to tackle but make sure not to use chemical controls on Nepenthes. Use biological controls like natural predators, but be aware that these might fall prey to the plants themselves! An infestation of aphids spotted early can be treated with a blower or canned air, though keep it at a good distance from these delicate plants. References 1. Nguyen, T. (2009, August 20). Giant Plant Eats Rodents. livescience.com. Retrieved April 18, 2023, from https://www.livescience.com/10561-giant-plant-eats-rodents.html 2. Carnivorous plants: the meat-eaters of the plant world. (n.d.). Natural History Museum. Retrieved April 18, 2023, from https://www.nhm.ac.uk/discover/carnivorous-plants-meat-eaters-of-the-plant-world.html 3. Tropical pitcher plants are beautiful but deadly. (2020, season-03). World Wildlife Fund. Retrieved April 18, 2023, from https://www.worldwildlife.org/magazine/issues/fall-2020/articles/tropical-pitcher-plants-are-beautiful-but-deadly 4. Nepenthales: Droseraceae & Nepenthaceae. (n.d.). Berkeley University. Retrieved April 18, 2023, from https://ucmp.berkeley.edu/anthophyta/caryos/nepenthales.html 5. Nepenthes. (n.d.). Global Biodiversity Information Facility. Retrieved April 18, 2023, from https://www.gbif.org/species/144103386 6. Nepenthes. (n.d.-b). Kew Royal Botanic Gardens. Retrieved April 18, 2023, from https://powo.science.kew.org/taxon/urn:lsid:ipni.org:names:327014-2 7. Tropical pitcher plants are beautiful but deadly. (n.d.). World Wildlife Fund. Retrieved April 18, 2023, from https://www.worldwildlife.org/magazine/issues/fall-2020/articles/tropical-pitcher-plants-are-beautiful-but-deadly
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Yew Pruning By Type: 'Plants Clipped Very Tightly Tend To Experience More Problems'
IN THIS GUIDE Do You Need To Prune Yew Trees? When To Prune Yew Pruning Yew Hedges Pruning Columnar Yew Trees Pruning Topiary Forms References Yew is one of the few native conifers we have here in the British Isles and it is popular for use in gardens, whether that’s as a stand-alone specimen, in a natural form, as a topiary or as hedging. It can be a great low-maintenance choice for a range of situations and circumstances. One thing that you do need to consider is how to prune yew in different settings in your garden – and the instructions are somewhat different depending on the form you want your yew to take. We advise on how to prune yew in each of these different scenarios, below. Difficulty Varies depending on form Equipment Required Secateurs or gardening shears When To Prune Spring, summer or autumn (depending on type) Do You Need To Prune Yew Trees? Yew left to their own devices grow into majestic and very large trees. If you have sufficient space then you can certainly choose to leave a yew to grow naturally without much pruning at all. However, most of the time yews in gardens are grown in different forms and maintaining those different forms will, of course, require at least some pruning. You should prune yews that are in specific upright forms, especially where space is limited. You should also prune yew trees grown as hedges and those that are grown in topiary forms. When To Prune Yew Yews are often pruned in the late summer or early autumn when you are just trimming or keeping things loosely in shape. “Yew is a vigorous grower, once established,” says Bill Irving, the Director of Boxtrees Nursery Ltd. “For standard garden hedges, trim once a year in late summer or early autumn, whilst old plants generally respond to pruning in late spring.” Hard cutting back should also be carried out in spring. When you are keeping yew in very tight control, you might prune several times over the spring and summer. The more frequently a yew hedge is trimmed, the denser, tighter and flatter its surface will be, but Bill warns against trimming too frequently: “Minimise trimming where possible and allow the plant a more natural shape and form. “Plants clipped very tightly tend to experience more problems.” Pruning Yew Hedges When it comes to yew hedges, there are several different types of pruning that you might undertake. First of all, if you have a newly planted yew hedge, you will likely have to think about formative pruning. Formative pruning with yew hedges is important because it fosters a straight, upright and dense hedge form. Formative pruning is usually carried out in the winter or early spring. When a yew hedge is first planted, the leading shoot is left unpruned, but straggling side shoots are cut back lightly. In summer, side shoots are then trimmed and the leading shoot is tied into a support stake or cane as it grows. Once a yew hedge is established, you will move on to the main maintenance pruning. This will generally involve cutting back the yew hedge once a year in late summer or early autumn, though it can also involve cutting back 2-3 times a year for a neater and more formal effect. “How often you cut back a Yew hedge will also depend on its size and location,” says Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly. “A small hedge bordering a path will need to be cut back more often than a large hedge at the back of a border, for example.” According to the RHS, Yew trees can grow up to around 30cm in a year – but trimming once a year will generally keep your yew hedge in check.1 However, more regular pruning will keep the surface of the hedge dense and smooth. If a yew hedge has been neglected and you wish to reduce it in size, it is best not to undertake an extensive renovation prune all at once. Instead, it is best to prune over three subsequent years to achieve the desired size reduction. In the first year, you should cut the top back to around 15-20cm lower than the final height desired. In the next year, you should cut back one of the sides of the overgrown hedge and, in the third year, you should cut back to reduce the width on the other side. Finally, if bare stems have developed at the base of a yew hedge, there is one type of drastic pruning you can undertake in order to get new growth lower down – coppicing. This hard pruning involves cutting the yew down to a point around 15-20cm of ground level early in the spring. New growth should emerge but it will likely be a number of years before your yew hedge recovers. Pruning Columnar Yew Trees If you are growing a yew which has an upright or columnar form, some training and pruning will likely be required in order to keep the desired shape. The branches are often tied together with strong twine to keep them more upright. Outward growth is also then shortened in August or early September. It is best to prune individual branches with secateurs rather than using hedge trimmers on a yew of this type and to prune back in the foliage so that the pruning cuts remain hidden within the tree. Once a yew of this type has reached the desired height, you can also trim the top each summer or early autumn to prevent it from becoming taller than desired. Pruning Topiary Forms Yew is often used for topiary and is well suited for use in this way because it develops dense growth and can respond well to regular pruning. There are, of course, many different topiary forms into which yew trees can be trained. It is possible to purchase pre-shaped yews or to work on shaping your yew from scratch. Pruning once a year in late summer or early autumn can help you maintain a basic form and size, but with many topiary forms, additional pruning once or twice more during the spring and summer seasons will be required to maintain a neat form. Sometimes, a shape will be maintained by just observing the tree, but a frame or guiding form can be placed in order to make it easier to see where pruning should take place. When pruning for topiary uses, Darren Lerigo from the European Boxwood and Topiary Society explains the importance of the tools you use: “It’s worth investing in good tools, a decent pair of shears will have good hard steel that will stay sharp longer which will mean the cuts are clean and not torn. “Get some secateurs, but make sure you try them out first so that you find the ones that fit your hands well and are easy to operate. “Similarly, topiary hand clippers are important for doing the fine detail,” explains Darren. Doing so should make this process easier. References 1. How to grow yew / RHS Gardening. (n.d.). Royal Horticultural Society. Retrieved April 26, 2023, from https://www.rhs.org.uk/plants/yew/growing-guide
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