Growing
Spiny Mammillaria - Why This Is David Ennals' Favourite Cacti (And How To Grow Yours)
IN THIS GUIDE Overview How To Grow Mammillaria Mammillaria Care Guidelines Mammillaria Varieties References Mammillaria is a family of cacti, with around 200 species and varieties.1 These are popular houseplants in temperate climates like the UK, which is far from their native range. “My absolute favourite cacti has to be mammillaria,” shares David Ennals, Owner of Coach House Cacti. “The patterns of spination make them very attractive and most forms are low-growing, bunching plants which produce rings of small flowers, usually from April through to May.” Overview Botanical Name Mammillaria Common Name(s) Pincushion Cacti Plant Type Cacti Native Area Mexico and the South-Western US Hardiness Rating H2 Foliage Evergreen Flowers Funnel-shaped flowers When To Plant Year-round undercover This is a large and diverse genus, with species that differ quite a lot in their appearance and features. The variations along with what can be extremely attractive flowers make a number of these cacti popular with those who enjoy growing cacti and succulents in their homes. Many of the Mammillaria cacti are considered to be among the easiest cacti to grow. However, not all are easy to grow and some within this genus are said to be among the most difficult cacti to cultivate. How To Grow Mammillaria When it comes to growing Mammillarias, as when growing any other cacti or succulents, the key is to make sure that you provide the right growing conditions for these plants. These are typically plants that are grown inside the home or in a heated greenhouse, though some are suited to outdoor summer cultivation in an area that receives low rainfall. Growing Conditions Temperatures are a key consideration when thinking about where pincushion cacti will be able to grow. These plants tend to be H2 hardy, which means that they can cope with low temperatures of 1-5°C but cannot withstand freezing temperatures. This generally means that they must be grown indoors or under cover in most parts of the UK. “Ideally, these plants should be kept between 5-10°C throughout the winter months as they enter a period of dormancy,” explains David. When grown indoors, they need bright, filtered light in an area with low humidity. Soil Preference These plants are cacti, so looking at their natural native habitat gives us all the clues we need to understand the conditions that they require when it comes to the growing medium. Mammillaria requires a cactus potting compost for the best results as this will be formulated to give them the free-draining conditions that they require. “I recommend not using multipurpose or moisture-retentive composts (high percentage peat or coir),” shares Dan Ori, a Master Horticulturist. “I make my own peat-free mix, but there are lots of good cacti composts available from garden centres and online retailers.” Mammillaria Care Guidelines Mammillaria cacti can be, as mentioned above, some of the easiest cacti to cultivate as houseplants. However, it is important to understand that some species can be much pickier and harder to grow. Sunlight Most of the time, these plants require bright light with some filtration to protect the plants from the hot sun in summer. It is important to make sure that they get enough light or certain problems can begin to creep in. Watering While these cacti are in active growth, they should be watered moderately and care should be taken to allow excess water to drain away freely to avoid excess saturation of the growing medium. “Water throughout the growing season but only after the compost has dried out,” David says. “Use half-strength tomato fertiliser every 4 waterings.” During the winter dormancy period, it is important not to water excessively. In fact, these cacti won’t need much water at all over the coldest part of the year and the growing medium should be allowed to dry out almost entirely. “Keep them dry during the winter in a cool, frost-free room or well-insulated greenhouse,” adds David. Propagating Some Mammillaria can be propagated by seed, which should be sown in the early spring (March or early April). You will likely need a heated propagator, as the seeds require temperatures between 19-24°C for successful germination. A somewhat easier way to propagate new pincushion cacti is by means of offsets. The offsets produced around the base of the cacti can often be separated and potted up independently in their own separate containers, where they can then expand your collection of cacti and continue to grow. Common Problems Most of the problems that arise when growing these cacti are caused by an issue with their environmental conditions. Like many other plants commonly kept indoors as houseplants, Mammillaria can also be attacked by mealybugs and other pests. Mammillaria Varieties Many Mammillarias are available to purchase by the home grower. Some that have been given an Award of Garden Merit by the RHS (indicating a high level of suitability to grow in the UK) are: M. bocasana M. candida M. compressa M. elongata M. geminispina M. hahniana M. petersonii M. plumosa M. pringlei M. surculosa This is by no means every available option, but these AGM-awarded cacti are among the best options to consider if you would like to grow this plant in your home. References 1. Mammillaria (Pincushion Cactus). (n.d.). North Carolina Extension Gardener Plant Toolbox. Retrieved May 4, 2023, from https://plants.ces.ncsu.edu/plants/mammillaria/
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This Is How To Grow Sundews According To Experts Megan Webb And Nigel Hewitt-Cooper
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Popular Varieties How To Grow Drosera Drosera Plant Care Propagation References If you are interested in growing carnivorous plants, then Droseras should be among the plants on your hit list. This large group of insectivorous plants offer options that are very easy for beginners to grow as houseplants in their homes, as well as numerous more challenging options for those with some carnivorous plant experience. “Having grown many more of the species over the years than most, I have settled on the sundews as one of my favourite carnivorous plants to grow,” shares Nigel Hewitt-Cooper, Owner of the specialist plant nursery Hewitt-Cooper Carnivorous Plants. “The Droseras number over 300 species and demonstrate the most incredible environmental adaptations. “Because of this, they require a diverse selection of cultural conditions which have kept me on my toes all these years.” Overview Botanical Name Drosera Common Name(s) Sundews Plant Type Perennial carnivorous plant Native Area Broad distribution globally Hardiness Rating Varies Foliage Upright herbaceous plants forming tentacled rosettes Flowers Mostly small flowers held high in spikes above the leaves When To Plant Anytime indoors Droseras, which are commonly called sundews, are found with a wide global distribution, with species found in diverse locations from Alaska to New Zealand.1 There are some in temperate regions, in Eurasia and North America, though most species are found in warmer climes. Only three species are native to Europe.2 Sundews generally tend to grow in moist or consistently wet habitats with high levels of sunlight and acidic soils. Looking at where they naturally grow can give us clues about the conditions they need when we grow them as houseplants in our homes. In general, they like warmer climes and are only moderately frost-resistant. However, sundews are remarkable plants that have adapted to a wide variety of different environments. Popular Varieties “Like all horticultural groups, there are species that require a good degree of experience to succeed with, so it’s best to concentrate on the more commonly grown plants which are easier to grow,” shares Nigel. “The sundew species is one of the easier carnivorous plant species to grow.” The hardiest and least fussy of sundews tend to be those that are easiest to grow at home and these are also, conveniently, the most widely available. Some of the drosera varieties that you might think about growing in the UK are: D. aliciae D. anglica D. binata var. dichotoma D. capensis D. intermedia D. rotundifolia There are also other species, varieties and hybrids to explore if you become interested in growing these plants. How To Grow Drosera Different Drosera can have significantly different growing needs. Some sundews are remarkably easy and straightforward to grow, while others can be much more finicky and challenging. If you are looking for an easier option for beginners then the cape sundew, Latin name Drosera capensis, is considered to be the easiest carnivorous plant to cultivate. This Drosera can be grown as a houseplant and is native to the cape of South Africa.3 It is far less well-known than the Venus fly trap, but actually easier to grow. Growing From Seed Drosera seeds can be sown as soon as they are ripe. However, for the beginner, purchasing a pot-grown plant is by far the easiest option. Drosera are sometimes also propagated through the division of clumps after the plant has flowered, through leaf cuttings taken any time during the growing season or through root cuttings taken over the winter months during the dormant period. Drosera Plant Care Whichever Drosera you are growing, it is important to understand its environmental needs in order to work out where to place it and how to care for it. While most sundews are grown as houseplants, a few hardier temperate climate types can be grown outdoors in a suitable spot, usually in pond margins or a bog garden. For example, Drosera rotundifolia might be grown in a bog garden outdoors, as it is H5 hardy, or also as a houseplant or in a greenhouse. Though Drosera can differ somewhat in their needs, most of those commonly grown as houseplants do have similar needs and are cared for in similar ways. Light & Temperature Most Drossera that are hardy enough to be grown in a bog garden outdoors like to be in full sun or partial shade, as Nigel explains: “Most common species of CP are inhabitants of open bog land, and are therefore adapted to high light levels. “You can think of them as cacti with wet feet.” Indoors, sundews should generally be placed in a light and relatively bright location, but not in direct sunlight where they may be scorched by the hot sun in summer. When it comes to temperatures, it is important to remember that many species need heat, while others are a lot more tolerant of the cold. So, when working out how warm they will like it, it is important to think about the hardiness rating of the specific sundew in question. “For Drosera that needs heat to survive, it is important to remember that your windowsill can be several degrees colder than the room at night, so this may not be the best spot, particularly if it gets direct sunlight,” shares Master Horticulturist Dan Ori. Watering Drosera typically needs to be kept in a consistently moist soil or potting mix year-round. It is important to make sure that moisture levels in the soil or growing medium are maintained at all times, especially during the summer months. When growing Drosera, always water with rainwater where possible and avoid using tap water where possible. It is best to water from below by standing pots in a tray of water during the growing season. In winter, when the plants enter a period of dormancy, the medium should be kept just moist and the plants should not be stood in a tray of water as they are when in active growth. “My top tip for success with Drosera is to concentrate on getting the watering right,” says Dan. “Keep moist but not waterlogged, water from underneath when possible and keep the soil pH in the acid range water with rainwater, as it is naturally acidic.” Soil Requirements Most Droseras need a moist to consistently wet soil or growing medium, which has an acidic pH. Though the needs of different species and cultivars can vary, remember that sundews typically come from marshy, wetland environments, so we are aiming to mimic those natural environments when growing these plants at home. Feeding You will typically not have to worry about feeding Drossera as they will typically feed themselves with small insects, trapping them on their own. Overwintering Many Drossera will require an indoor, frost-free location over the winter months, but some are hardy enough to remain outside in a bog garden. Sundews will typically enter a period of dormancy over the winter months, requiring less water than during the active growth period. “Sundews will typically require a cold winter,” says Nigel. “This may seem rather odd, as most people assume these plants are all inhabitants of tropical regions. “However, these are temperate plants that enjoy warm-hot summers and cold winters when they die back and enter a period of dormancy from around October ot February.” Common Problems Generally, Drosera is free from pest and disease problems, so any problems that do arise tend to be due to improper placement or care. Propagation Sundews can be propagated through division. Clumps can be divided after the plant has flowered in the summer and the divided sections can be repotted to become new independent plants. References 1. Sundews (Drosera). (2019, December 3). Carnivorous Plant Resource. Retrieved May 4, 2023, from https://carnivorousplantresource.com/the-plants/sundews/ 2. Drosera L. (n.d.). Global Biodiversity Information Facility. Retrieved May 4, 2023, from https://www.gbif.org/species/144103463 3. McQuillan, M. (2008, February). Drosera capensis | PlantZAfrica. South African National Biodiversity Institute. Retrieved May 4, 2023, from http://pza.sanbi.org/drosera-capensis
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Late Summer? Time To Harvest Your Sweet Potatoes, With Storage Tips From Andrew Hock
IN THIS GUIDE When To Harvest Sweet Potatoes The Harvesting Process Storing Sweet Potatoes Sweet potatoes, Ipomoea batatas, are not the easiest crop to grow in the UK, but there are now varieties much better suited to cultivation in our climate than were on offer before. It is definitely possible to achieve good results as long as you have positioned and cared for your crop correctly. In our climate, it is certainly easier to grow a worthwhile harvest of sweet potatoes under cover in a greenhouse or polytunnel, but even outdoors with some protection, it will be possible in much of the UK. Once you successfully grow these plants to maturity, you will need to know when and how to harvest your sweet potatoes correctly and what to do with them once you have. Below are the basic things that you should know when it comes to harvesting and storing your sweet potato crop. Difficulty Easy Equipment Required Fork or trowel When To Harvest August to October When To Harvest Sweet Potatoes Sweet potatoes are typically harvested between late summer and the first frost, which is usually between August and October. When precisely you will harvest will depend on when you planted your slips and also on where you live, the conditions to be found there and the variety that you have chosen to grow. “By waiting to harvest for as long as possible, you can expect as large a yield as possible,” says Andrew Hock, Founder of The Sweet Potato Society. “The tubers can live underground pretty happily, as long as it’s not too wet and soggy, so wait until the top greens begin dying. “A lot of energy gets sent back down to the tubers as the stems and plants die. “It’s hard to be patient this time of year but if it’s not too wet or cold, hold off as long as possible for the biggest yield.” Some sweet potato cultivars have a shorter time to harvest than others, but you can typically expect to harvest your edible sweet potato tubers around 4-5 months after you planted the slips in the spring. Of course, you will only be able to harvest a worthwhile yield after this time has elapsed if you have taken good care of your crop over the summer months by keeping them well watered, well fed and otherwise cared for correctly. The main harvest from your sweet potatoes is the tubers, but it is also worth remembering that these plants also provide an additional yield. The young shoots and the leaves are also edible and you might consider these as an additional source of nutrition from these plants. Therefore, you might harvest the odd little shoot or leaf here and there much earlier than when the main harvest becomes available. “To get the best harvest for the space and easily pick young shoots, I recommend growing sweet potatoes up something, as it’s a climbing plant and totally different in habit to our normal potatoes,” shares Master Horticulturist Dan Ori. The Harvesting Process To harvest the edible tubers from the sweet potato plants, wait for the leaves of the plants to start to turn yellow and die back. Feel below the ground or growing medium gently and you should be able to feel the roots which will help you to determine whether they have reached a worthwhile size for harvesting. Ease a fork into the ground close, but not too close, to the plant and pry upwards, and your sweet potatoes should be revealed. If growing in a container, you can simply overturn the pot to allow the contents to spill out, exposing the harvest of sweet potatoes inside. Once you have unearthed your sweet potatoes, it is a good idea to check them over very carefully. Any with damage or blemishes should be placed to one side to be used up as soon as possible, as they will not keep for long. Any potatoes that look damage free should be cured by leaving them in a warm, dry spot for a few days for the skins to dry out and harden a little so that they will store a little better and for a little longer. Storing Sweet Potatoes Unfortunately, sweet potatoes will not store successfully for long even when they have been cured. Therefore, it is best to use them up quickly or to preserve these in your freezer. They can also potentially be dehydrated or canned for later use. Blanched or boiled sweet potatoes can be frozen and will keep in the freezer for a number of months. If freezer space is at a premium, there are recipes that will allow you to pressure can your sweet potatoes and store them safely at room temperature in sealed preserving jars. Be sure to always check for reliable recipes from trusted sources when canning food at home. Sweet potatoes can also be cubed or shredded and dehydrated in an oven, stove or electric dehydrator and can be stored in an airtight jar in this form for later use. If stored this way, they can be kept for a year or even more, as long as they are stored correctly. They can later easily be rehydrated and added into a range of different recipes. Baking the sweet potatoes before dehydrating them gives the best results in terms of flavour. Of course, you may have no difficulty in using up your sweet potatoes without these preservation techniques, as there are plenty of great recipes in which you can use them in your kitchen soon after you have harvested them from your garden.
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Spectacular Stonecrops - Niamh Mullally's Top Sedum Varieties
IN THIS GUIDE 1) S. acre 2) S. album 3) S. dasyphyllum 4) S. kamtschaticum (Reclassified as Phedimus kamtschaticus) 5) S. spectabile ‘Marchant’s Best Red’ 6) S. sieboldii ‘Mediovariegatum’ (Reclassified as Hylotelephium sieboldii) 7) S. morganianum 8) S. adolphii 9) S. reflexum (reclassified as Petrosedum rupestre) 10) S. × rubrotinctum 11) S. spathulifolium ‘Cape Blanco’ 12) S. spathulifolium ‘Purpureum’ 13) S. spectabile ‘Herbstfreude’ (reclassified as Hylotelephium spectabile) 14) S. telephium ‘Vera Jameson’ (Reclassified as Hylotelephium telephium) 15) S. telephium ‘Xenox’ (Reclassified as H. telephium) References Sedums, also known as stonecrops, are a number of different species of plants that are characterised by their succulent foliage. Aside from being succulents, sedums can vary significantly when it comes to their type, size and physical appearance. The Sedum genus currently boasts 476 species, although some Sedum (26 in fact) have been recategorised in the Hylotelephium and other genera.1 Across our guides, we have collaborated with Niamh Mullally, the owner of the specialist plant nursery Southwold Succulent Co. Although Niamh is a grower of lots of succulents, some of her favourite varieties to grow are sedums. “S. sieboldii f. variegatum is hard to beat aesthetically with its blue and pink colouration. “With a semi-trailing habit, it’s wonderfully used in a hardy succulent hanging basket for summer interest.” Sedum sieboldii f. variegatum “Another favourite of mine is Sedum takesimense ‘Atlantis’, an award-winning variegated tri-colour sedum with extremely pretty pink new spring foliage,” says Niamh. “In summer, the variation turns green and cream with exceptionally beautiful yellow flowers. An exceptionally hardy and low-maintenance variety.” A number of species formerly referred to as Sedums have now been reclassified as Hylotelephium and Rhodiola. Here are some of the sedums that you might grow in a garden that are still classified within this genus: 1) S. acre COMMON NAME(S): biting stonecrop HARDINESS RATING: H7 FOLIAGE: evergreen FLOWERS: yellow SIZE: 0-0.1m in height, 0.1-0.5m spread Also known as biting stonecrop, this mat-forming succulent has fleshy little leaves and yellow five-petalled flowers which bloom between May and July and are beloved by bees. This is a sedum that is native to the UK, naturally growing in dunes, dry grassland and in cracks between rocks. It can be a great choice for many drier, sunny gardens. It grows to around 10cm tall. 2) S. album COMMON NAME(S): white stonecrop HARDINESS RATING: H4 FOLIAGE: evergreen FLOWERS: white SIZE: 0-0.1m in height, 0.1-0.5m spread White stonecrop also grows to around 10cm tall and is native to the UK. It has fleshy cylindrical foliage, which takes on a reddish hue in autumn, and star-like white flowers in the summer. A well-drained and alkaline or neutral soil is needed to grow this sedum, which also prefers full sun and as sheltered a position as possible. It is drought tolerant, but only H4 hardy. 3) S. dasyphyllum COMMON NAME(S): corsican stonecrop HARDINESS RATING: H6 FOLIAGE: evergreen FLOWERS: white SIZE: 0-0.1m in height, 0.1-0.5m spread Corsican stonecrop is another succulent which grows around 12cm tall and spreads around 20cm wide. Perfect for a south-facing position in full sun, it will thrive even in poor soil and can tolerate drought. Small white flowers like stars appear above the glaucous, blue-green leaves in early summer. This sedum is a great choice for the cracks between paving stones in a sunny and sheltered spot, or even as a lawn substitute in the hottest and driest of gardens. 4) S. kamtschaticum (Reclassified as Phedimus kamtschaticus) COMMON NAME(S): orange stonecrop HARDINESS RATING: H5 FOLIAGE: semi-evergreen FLOWERS: gold / yellow SIZE: 0-0.1m in height, 0.1-0.5m spread The orange stonecrop is a semi-evergreen perennial with bright green leaves and starry golden-yellow flowers in late summer. It is a good choice for rockeries or for placement between paving stones in a garden. This sedum also likes well-drained and alkaline or neutral soil in full sun and is drought tolerant, making it a good choice for lower rainfall areas. 5) S. spectabile ‘Marchant’s Best Red’ COMMON NAME(S): sedum ‘Marchant’s Best Red’ HARDINESS RATING: H7 FOLIAGE: deciduous FLOWERS: pink / red SIZE: 0.5-1m in height, 0.5-1m spread A deciduous type, this perennial sedum grows around 60cm tall. It has yellowy-green leaves, with stems that are strongly flushed with red. It bears grey-green buds which open to reveal pink flowers in late summer and autumn. The stems and flower heads remain interesting and attractive long into winter when the flower heads are a deep red-brown and the stems are brownish-grey. Place this sedum in full sun in well-drained soil. 6) S. sieboldii ‘Mediovariegatum’ (Reclassified as Hylotelephium sieboldii) COMMON NAME(S): stonecrop ‘Misebaya-nakafu’ HARDINESS RATING: H3 FOLIAGE: semi-evergreen FLOWERS: pink SIZE: 0-0.1m in height, 0.1-0.5m spread This is a herbaceous or semi-evergreen perennial type of sedum. It has red stems and grey-green leaves with central cream areas. The flowers are borne in terminal clusters at the ends of stalks around 10cm tall and are rose-pink in hue. Grow in a sheltered position in full sun or partial shade in a well-drained alkaline or neutral soil. 7) S. morganianum COMMON NAME(S): burro’s tail HARDINESS RATING: H1C FOLIAGE: evergreen FLOWERS: purple SIZE: 0.1-0.5m in height, 0.1-0.5m spread This sedum, also known as burro’s tail, is one to grow indoors rather than in the garden. “Sedum morganianum is fantastic as a hanging basket in a conservatory or trailing from a pot on a shelf (assuming its in a bright spot),” shares Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly. “They also can be propagated easily from leaves. Just remove from the stem and lay on top of a tray of grit and they will begin to root.” It is not hardy enough to survive out in the garden year-round and only has a hardiness rating of H1C. It is grown indoors or under glass in a mixture of 3-parts loam-based compost, 1-part leaf mould and 2-parts horticultural grit. It also needs full light and good ventilation to thrive. Its beautiful trailing stems of blue-green leaves and small clusters of star-like reddish-purple flowers make this a good houseplant choice. 8) S. adolphii COMMON NAME(S): coppertone stonecrop HARDINESS RATING: H2 FOLIAGE: evergreen FLOWERS: white SIZE: 0.1-0.5m in height, 0.1-0.5m spread This is another tender sedum which has a hardiness rating of H2 and is typically grown indoors as a houseplant or under glass. It does best when grown in a specific succulent potting mix, in full light but out of the hot, direct sun. The fleshy leaves of this sedum are arranged around trailing, rooting stems. The foliage is green but becomes orange in hot, bright and dry conditions. These plants also bear small white star-shaped flowers in the spring in domed clusters. 9) S. reflexum (reclassified as Petrosedum rupestre) COMMON NAME(S): reflexed stonecrop HARDINESS RATING: H5 FOLIAGE: evergreen FLOWERS: yellow SIZE: 0.1-0.5m in height, 0.1-0.5m spread A native sedum that is wonderful for wildlife, this option has blue-green foliage and bears bright lemon-yellow star-shaped flowers in the summer months. Fast-growing and robust, it is a great option for ground cover in more arid areas with full sun and well-drained soil. This option grows around 20cm tall with a spread of around 60cm. It is a hardy perennial plant that should thrive in the right situation over many years. 10) S. × rubrotinctum COMMON NAME(S): jelly bean plant HARDINESS RATING: H3 FOLIAGE: evergreen FLOWERS: yellow SIZE: 0.1-0.5m in height, 0.1-0.5m spread Referred to by a number of different common names, such as the jelly-bean plant, banana cactus and Christmas cheer, this sedum is commonly grown as a houseplant in the UK. However, it is H3 hardy and can survive in a warm, sunny and sheltered spot outside as long as it is protected from frost. This is a low-growing perennial succulent which grows around 20cm tall. It has banana-shaped leaves 2cm long arranged in spirals around its spreading stems. These leaves are bright green with red tips which may sometimes turn a deeper bronze hue in summer. 11) S. spathulifolium ‘Cape Blanco’ COMMON NAME(S): spoon-leaved stonecrop ‘Cape Blanco’ HARDINESS RATING: H6 FOLIAGE: evergreen FLOWERS: yellow SIZE: 0-0.1m in height, 0.1-0.5m spread Low-growing and spreading, this stonecrop, sometimes referred to as the spoon-leaved stonecrop, has purple-tinged greyish-green leaves and starry yellow flowers carried in small clusters above the leaves. This sedum can do well in a sheltered spot in full sun, in moist but well-drained soil. 12) S. spathulifolium ‘Purpureum’ COMMON NAME(S): purple spoon-leaved stonecrop HARDINESS RATING: H5 FOLIAGE: evergreen FLOWERS: yellow SIZE: 0-0.1m in height, 0.1-0.5m spread Another highly regarded spoon-leaved sedum, this option grows to around 10cm high and creates low mats of evergreen foliage. The leaves on this option are not green but rather a purplish red, with some white blooming. The flowers, borne in terminal clusters in the summer, are bright yellow in colour. This option should be grown in full sun or partial shade, in a well-drained alkaline or neutral soil. 13) S. spectabile ‘Herbstfreude’ (reclassified as Hylotelephium spectabile) COMMON NAME(S): stonecrop ‘Herbstfreude’ HARDINESS RATING: H7 FOLIAGE: deciduous FLOWERS: pink SIZE: 0.5-1m in height, 0.1-0.5m spread An attractive perennial forming clumps around 60cm in height, this ‘sedum’ (now Hylotelephium) has glaucous leaves with a deep green hue and prolifically bears flat terminal clusters of blooms in early autumn. Herbstfreude translates from German as ‘autumn joy’ – and you’ll rarely see a plant more aptly named. The flowers form from green-pink buds, which open to pale pink flowers. These flowers deepen as time goes on to pink then turn a russety, brownish-red hue. Grow this plant in well-drained alkaline or neutral soil in full sun and good airflow. This species is tough, drought resistant and H7 hardy – and will grow well even in an exposed location. 14) S. telephium ‘Vera Jameson’ (Reclassified as Hylotelephium telephium) COMMON NAME(S): stonecrop ‘Vera Jameson’ HARDINESS RATING: H5 FOLIAGE: deciduous FLOWERS: pink SIZE: 0.1-0.5m in height, 0.1-0.5m spread This mound-forming ‘sedum’ (now Hylotelephium) is a herbaceous perennial which forms clumps up to 30cm high. It has spreading stems, oval succulent leaves and bears rounded clusters of pretty little star-like pink flowers in the late summer or early autumn. Like the above, it needs a position in full sun with well-drained soil that is alkaline or neutral. It can cope with an exposed location and is H5 hardy. 15) S. telephium ‘Xenox’ (Reclassified as H. telephium) COMMON NAME(S): orpine ‘Xenox’ HARDINESS RATING: H7 FOLIAGE: deciduous FLOWERS: pink SIZE: 0.1-0.5m in height, 0.1-0.5m spread This mound-forming ‘sedum’ (now Hylotelephium) grows around 0.5m in height. It has beautiful greenish-purple leaves that transform into a dark purple shade as they mature. In mid to late summer, pretty pink heads of flowers appear above the foliage, opening from bright red buds. Grow in full sun in well-drained, alkaline or neutral soil. Of course, these options just scratch the surface of this genus, which has so many useful plants for water-wise planting schemes. The above sedums (and reclassified plants formerly known as sedums) are just some of those that you might consider. References 1. Sedum (n.d.). Kew Plants of the World Online. Retrieved October 7, 2023, from https://powo.science.kew.org/taxon/urn:lsid:ipni.org:names:30001444-2#children
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Fuchsia Society Members Share 20 Types They Love The Most
IN THIS GUIDE Expert Chosen Varieties 1) F. ‘Adinda’ 2) F. ‘Alice Hoffman’ 3) F. ‘Annabel’ 4) F. ‘Dark Eyes’ 5) F. ‘Display’ 6) F. ‘Dollar Princess’ 7) Fuchsia ‘Harry Gray’ 8) F. ‘Howlett’s Hardy’ 9) F. ‘John Ridding’ 10) F. ‘La Campanella’ 11) F. ‘Lady Thumb’ 12) F. ‘Mrs Popple’ 13) F. ‘Pink Galore’ 14) F. ‘Put’s Folly’ 15) F. ‘Riccartonii’ 16) F. ‘Snowcap’ 17) F. ‘Tom West’ 18) F. ‘Tricolor’ 19) F. ‘Whiteknights Pearl’ 20) F. ‘Winston Churchill’ Fuchsias are attractive flowering shrubs that can find a place in many gardens, whether that’s in the ground or growing in pots or hanging baskets. If you are looking for a hardy fuchsia or perhaps seeking a more tender type, there are plenty of fuchsia varieties to choose from. When choosing a fuchsia, one of the first things to think about is the hardiness of the option you are considering and where the plant will grow. Some fuchsias are hardy enough to remain outside in a UK garden year-round, while many others most certainly are not. “Fuchsia magellanica and its varieties and cultivars are the hardiest Fuchsia for the UK,” shares Colin Skelly, a Horticultural Consultant. “In the milder, coastal and urban areas of the UK, they can be grown as hedges and will stand all year round. In colder regions, the stems will be killed back to the ground in winter but will regrow from all but the coldest winter weather (-10°C).” However, you will also probably want to consider other things, such as aesthetics and the colour of the blooms. Expert Chosen Varieties We asked two of the most knowledgeable fuchsia growers in the country, Gail Barber and Terry Sykes, to share their favourite varieties with us. “There are several species of fuchsia that are well worth looking at, including a species called Fuchsia encliandra that has very small leaves and flowers,” shares Gail. “These plants are just as easy to grow as other fuchsias but are also perfect to train around wire shapes or even grow as bonsai. “The tiny flowers, which are often less than 1cm in size, are completely captivating.” F. ‘Hawkshead’ Some of Terry’s favourite favourites include: ‘Hawkshead’ ‘Little Beauty’ ‘Anne Reid’ ‘Lyndon’ ‘Brookwood Belle’ ‘Lillian Anetts’ ‘Cloe Christine’ ‘Cherry Pop’ Clearly, there are a number of wonderful options, but here is a list of some of the most highly regarded ones to help you narrow down your options and select the right fuchsia for you. All of the options below have received the RHS Award of Garden Merit. 1) F. ‘Adinda’ HARDINESS RATING: H1C FLOWERS: pink FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer / autumn SIZE: 0.5-1m in height, 0.5-1m spread This is a semi-evergreen shrub with triphylla-type blooms and a corolla of a rosey hue that blooms in summer and autumn. This is a tender type of fuchsia which can be grown outside in summer and can be good for container cultivation. 2) F. ‘Alice Hoffman’ HARDINESS RATING: H4 FLOWERS: pink and white FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer / autumn SIZE: 0.1-0.5m in height, 0.1-0.5m spread A hardy, deciduous fuchsia with gently arching stems that carry an abundance of pink and white semi-double flowers throughout the summer and into autumn, this cultivar also has bronze-tinted leaves which add further interest. It grows around 60cm tall and wide, working well in a border or in pots. 3) F. ‘Annabel’ HARDINESS RATING: H4 FLOWERS: white and pink FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer / autumn SIZE: 0.1-0.5m in height, 0.1-0.5m spread This attractive hardy fuchsia has double blooms with white tubes and sepals that are tinged with pink and white petals which are pink towards the base. The shrub is deciduous and has an upright form, light green foliage and an H4 hardiness rating. It will tend to grow to less than 50cm in height and spread. 4) F. ‘Dark Eyes’ HARDINESS RATING: H4 FLOWERS: purple and red FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer / autumn SIZE: 0.1-0.5m in height, 0.1-0.5m spread A bushy little shrub standing less than 50cm tall and wide, ‘Dark Eyes’ is another attractive fuchsia to consider. It has single flowers with deep purple petals and deep red sepals and tubes, which are set off to great effect against the dark green foliage. 5) F. ‘Display’ HARDINESS RATING: H4 FLOWERS: pink FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer / autumn SIZE: 0.1-0.5m in height, 0.1-0.5m spread This fuchsia is also a deciduous and hardy option to consider. It has slightly recurved deep pinkish-red sepals, a deep pinkish-red tube and paler pink petals. These pretty blooms look great throughout the summer and into early autumn. 6) F. ‘Dollar Princess’ HARDINESS RATING: H4 FLOWERS: pink and purple FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer / autumn SIZE: 0.1-0.5m in height, 0.1-0.5m spread This is another fuchsia with particularly attractive and vibrant blooms. The flowers on this cultivar are double, with a short tube and broad, recurving sepals. The sepals and tube are a bright crimson red and the petals are purple with red veins towards their bases. 7) Fuchsia ‘Harry Gray’ HARDINESS RATING: H2 FLOWERS: pink and white FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer / autumn SIZE: 0.1-0.5m in height, 0.1-0.5m spread Relaxed and laid-back, this fuchsia, with its double white flowers that have just a hint of pink veining and trailing red stems, is the height of serenity. It grows to around 60cm in height. However, this option can withstand cold temperatures but not frosts as it only has a hardiness rating of H2. 8) F. ‘Howlett’s Hardy’ HARDINESS RATING: H4 FLOWERS: pink and purple FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer / autumn SIZE: 0.5-1m in height, 0.1-0.5m spread This semi-evergreen fuchsia has flowers with red-pink sepals and a deep purple corolla. The pendant flowers have a conspicuous tubular calyx. This is one of the hardier fuchsias, with a hardiness rating of H4. 9) F. ‘John Ridding’ HARDINESS RATING: H1C FLOWERS: orange and red FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer SIZE: 0.5-1m in height, 0.5-1m spread Also known as ‘Firecracker’, this fuchsia is also semi-evergreen. It has orangey-red triphylla flowers with tubular calyx, which are paler towards the tips. The foliage is also noteworthy, producing greyish-green leaves with creamy edge variegation and purple flushing and veins. This fuchsia can be grown outside in summer only, with a hardiness rating of H1C. 10) F. ‘La Campanella’ HARDINESS RATING: H2 FLOWERS: pink, white and purple FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer / autumn SIZE: 0.1-0.5m in height, 0.1-0.5m spread This little fuchsia grows only around 40cm tall. It has a lax habit and boasts attractive flowers. The sepals are white and tinged with pink, the short tube is white and the petals are purple, lightening over time to a lighter violet hue. Note that this is a more tender fuchsia with a hardiness rating of H2. 11) F. ‘Lady Thumb’ HARDINESS RATING: H3 FLOWERS: pink and white FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer / autumn SIZE: 0.1-0.5m in height, 0.1-0.5m spread This compact deciduous fuchsia has semi-double flowers. The sepals and tubes of these blooms are vibrant pink and the petals are white with delicate pink veining. These flowers are borne prolifically in summer and into autumn. 12) F. ‘Mrs Popple’ HARDINESS RATING: H4 FLOWERS: red and purple FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer / autumn SIZE: 0.5-1m in height, 0.5-1m spread A popular fuchsia cultivar which can grow up to 1m in height and spread, this option has deep green leaves and single flowers that have bright red sepals and tubes and petals with a purple-violet hue. This is a hardy fuchsia with a hardiness rating of H4. 13) F. ‘Pink Galore’ HARDINESS RATING: H2 FLOWERS: pink FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer / autumn SIZE: 0.1-0.5m in height, 0.1-0.5m spread Semi-evergreen and trailing in form, this fuchsia shrub has pendulous candy-pink flowers with a conspicuous tubular calyx. The pink sepals are slightly green towards the tips. This is a somewhat more tender fuchsia with a hardiness rating of H2. 14) F. ‘Put’s Folly’ HARDINESS RATING: H2 FLOWERS: pink and white FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer / autumn SIZE: 0.1-0.5m in height, 0.5-1m spread This deciduous fuchsia has a trailing or cascading form. The leaves are fairly light green and against these, the single flowers stand out pleasingly. The sepals are white to pale pink and the corollas are a deeper purplish pink. These blooms appear prolifically and remain in flower from summer well into the autumn months. 15) F. ‘Riccartonii’ HARDINESS RATING: H6 FLOWERS: red and purple FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer / autumn SIZE: 2-4m in height, 1.5-2.5m spread This medium-sized deciduous shrub fuchsia can grow between 1.5-2.5m in height and 1-1.5m in spread. It has small oval-shaped leaves and flowers with vivid crimson sepals and tubes and purple-violet petals. This is one of the hardiest fuchsias on this list, with a hardiness rating of H6. 16) F. ‘Snowcap’ HARDINESS RATING: H4 FLOWERS: red and white FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer / autumn SIZE: 0.5-1m in height, 0.1-0.5m spread Growing perhaps as much as 1m tall and 0.5m wide, this upright deciduous shrub has quite deep green foliage. The flowers, borne in summer and into autumn, are semi-double. The sepals and tube are scarlet red and the petals are white, with red veining at their bases. 17) F. ‘Tom West’ HARDINESS RATING: H2 FLOWERS: purple and red FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer / autumn SIZE: 0.1-0.5m in height, 0.1-0.5m spread This fuchsia grows around 50cm tall and wide. It has an upright but lax growth habit and is prized not only for its flowers but for its foliage too. The flowers are single, in shades of red and purple. The leaves are green with cream edges that are sometimes tinged with pink. 18) F. ‘Tricolor’ HARDINESS RATING: H4 FLOWERS: red FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer SIZE: 0.5-1m in height, 0.5-1m spread Growing up to around 1.5m tall and wide, this fuchsia has small grey-green leaves that are fringed with cream and flushed with pink when young. The slender flowers have red sepals and tubes and purple petals. This fuchsia is a hardy one, with a hardiness rating of H4. 19) F. ‘Whiteknights Pearl’ HARDINESS RATING: H4 FLOWERS: pink and white FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer / autumn SIZE: 1-1.5m in height, 1-1.5m spread Around the same size as the option listed above, this fuchsia has a bushy, upright form. The foliage is fairly dark and neat, and the flowers are delicate, with slender white tubes, sepals with a pale pink hue and slightly deeper pink petals. 20) F. ‘Winston Churchill’ HARDINESS RATING: H2 FLOWERS: purple and pink FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer / autumn SIZE: 0.5-1m in height, 0.1-0.5m spread Growing to around 60cm tall, this deciduous fuchsia has double flowers. The sepals, which are short and reflexed, are pink and the petals are a deep purple with some pink veining towards the base. These are, of course, far from the only options that you might consider when looking for fuchsias to grow. However, this list should give you a good place to start when looking for the right fuchsia for you.
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Gail Barber On Fuchsia Propagation In Early Spring: 'It's Easy, Quick And Very Satisfying'
IN THIS GUIDE Taking Hardwood Cuttings From Hardy Fuchsias Taking Softwood Cuttings From Tender Fuchsias Propagating From Seed Fuchsias are beautiful flowering shrubs that many will find make great additions to their gardens. Some are hardy enough to survive outside year-round with no problems in a suitable spot, whilst others are far more tender and will require winter protection. Whatever species, variety or cultivar you are growing, you may well be interested in learning how to propagate your plants to obtain new plants for your garden. Fortunately, fuchsias are pretty easy to propagate via cuttings and can also be grown from seed, though this is more challenging and the seeds won’t necessarily resemble the parent plant. “Taking fuchsia cuttings in early spring is easy, quick and very satisfying,” shares Gail Barber, the Secretary of the Sutton Coldfield Fuchsia Society and Gardening Guild. “By taking several tip cuttings in one pot, covered by a plastic bag to keep in the moisture, they can be placed on a window sill out of direct sunlight and will be rooted in a couple of weeks. “This can be a very efficient way of planting up pots and baskets to make eye-catching summer displays.” The type of fuchsia you are growing will dictate when cuttings are best taken from an existing plant. Whether you choose to grow fuchsias from cuttings or from seed, you should generally have good success rates and find it a relatively simple and straightforward gardening job. Difficulty Easy Equipment Required Sharp knife, cutting compost, small pots When To Propagate October to November (hardwood cuttings), year-round (softwood cuttings), spring (from seed) Taking Hardwood Cuttings From Hardy Fuchsias By far the easiest option when it comes to propagating hardy fuchsias growing in your garden is to take hardwood cuttings. You can also take softwood or semi-ripe cuttings of hardy fuchsias, but taking hardwood cuttings generally yields the best results. “Hardwood Fuchsia cuttings are a great place to start with propagation if you are new to it,” shares Colin Skelly, a Master Horticulturist. “It is one of the easiest plants to root and will prove that plants want to grow, you’ve just got to give them what they need. Luckily, Fucshias don’t need very much, so they are perfect for encouraging the start of your propagation journey!” Hardwood cuttings from hardy fuchsia should be taken in the late autumn, from around mid-October into November. It is best to take stems that are not green and are instead covered in brown bark for protection against rotting that might set in over winter. Cut lengths of the woody stem that are around the length of a pencil. Cut at the base horizontally, just below a pair of leaves, and trim at the top, making a sloping cut so that you can tell the top from the bottom and so that water can run off. Prepare a container (a 15cm pot is ideal) filled with a peat-free cuttings compost or potting mix. Then, place 5 cuttings around the edge of the pot, with around 50% of their length below the surface of the growing medium. Over the winter, keep these cuttings in a location that will reliably remain free from frost and water sparingly – just enough to keep the growing medium just moist. New shoots should emerge from your cuttings in the spring, at which point you can pot up the individual cuttings into their own individual containers. You can then plant out your cuttings in the early summer and they should flower, though perhaps sparsely, during their first season in the ground. Taking Softwood Cuttings From Tender Fuchsias Softwood cuttings can be taken from tender fuchsia at any time of the year, as long as there are lush, green shoots on an existing fuchsia plant. However, it is normal to take softwood cuttings in spring or early summer, when rooting and growth tend to be the fastest. Softwood cuttings will usually root within three weeks or so. You can place them in either water or soil for the rooting process to take place. Place the cuttings around the edge of a pot filled with peat-free, moist yet free-draining cuttings compost or you can consider rooting them in a glass of water. If you choose the second option, you’ll be able to see clearly when roots have formed. Just make sure that the leaves are not underwater or they will decompose. When rooting in water, wait for the roots to grow to around 1-2cm long and then place each of your softwood fuchsia cuttings into its own small (7.5cm) pot filled with peat-free potting mix. Semi-ripe cuttings are also an option. These are cuttings taken from a fuchsia a little later, typically towards the end of summer or in very early autumn. These cuttings should be hard and woody at the base but still soft and green at the top. These can also root well but may not quite be as successful as softwood cuttings. Propagating From Seed We cover how to grow fuchsia from seed in more detail in a different guide, but in short, seeds are collected from an existing fuchsia in autumn, stored over the winter and planted in the spring. They should be sown on the surface of a moist yet free-draining seed-starting compost as they need light to germinate. They germinate best when temperatures of 18°C can be maintained. Though this process is a somewhat more challenging way to obtain new fuchsia plants from an existing one, it could be an interesting option to try if you want to try your own little experiment in plant breeding, as some interesting variations may be created. However, most of the time your best bet is to take cuttings and grow them on into thriving new fuchsia plants for your garden.
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Fuchsia Plants Are Tailor-Made For Container Growing, But Don't Scrimp On The Pot Size
IN THIS GUIDE Can You Grow Fuchsia In Pots? Choosing A Container Choosing Compost Positioning The Container Varieties To Grow Potting Up & Transplanting Ongoing Care For Potted Fuchsia Plants References Fuchsias are a wonderfully varied genus, encompassing plants in very many combinations of plant type, habit, height and spread, hardiness, and foliage type. However, all fuchsias feature complex flowers in the form of coloured bracts that frame an even more vibrant corolla from which conspicuous stamens emerge. However, fuchsias are not easy plants to care for, as most are not hardy, and all are quite sensitive to heat. When growing them indoors, it is the same story. A dry atmosphere and low humidity, cold drafts or lack of sunlight, which is the norm in most homes, tends to hit fuchsias harder than most other plants. Nonetheless, with some TLC you can delight in the brilliant blooms of this sub-tropical flower even if you live in the UK. Difficulty Easy Equipment Required Ericaceous potting mix, fuchsia plants, pots or hanging baskets Can You Grow Fuchsia In Pots? Absolutely. In fact, it is preferable for British gardeners to grow fuchsia in pots. Doing so offers a lot of flexibility in caring for this plant, which is so sensitive to weather fluctuations and extremes. Also, the trailing types of fuchsias are verily tailor-made for hanging baskets – a brilliant adornment for a sunlit corner in the living room. “Fuchsias growing in pots are particularly useful, as they can be placed into borders when other plants have finished their display for the year,” shares Gail Barber from the Sutton Coldfield Fuchsia Society & Gardening Guild. “In fact, I grow most of my fuchsias in pots, as this enables me to keep colour and interest in key areas of my garden throughout the season.” Choosing A Container Bushy and upright fuchsias are best planted in a traditional half-conical or half-pyramid pot whilst trailing and mat-forming types in hanging baskets will be a treat for tired eyes. As fuchsias require excellent drainage, any container must have drainage holes. Pots should be made of terracotta. Bushy and upright fuchsias range in height from 0.4m to 3m, so the pot size will be determined by the height of the plant. Fuchsias are fast-growing plants and also absorb a lot of soil nutrients, so I’d suggest that, given your particular plant’s size, the size of the pot be one size greater. “Don’t scrimp on the pot size as Fuchsias grow fast and look best when flowering in profusion,” shares Horticultural Consultant Colin Skelly. “Upright cultivars create both height and volume and mat-forming cultivars also tend to create a spilling effect due to the pendant nature of their flowers.” As for trailing and mat-forming varieties, a regulation 30cm hanging basket will accommodate 5-6 fuchsia plants. A rattan or cane hanging basket should be the preferred choice. Choosing Compost Fuchsias thrive in rich, fertile and moist but free-draining soil. A multi-purpose potting soil from a reputable manufacturer will be very suitable. Where fuchsias are concerned, there can be no compromise on drainage, so start with a bottom layer of pebbles and grit and amend then the compost with perlite, grit and sand. You can also make your own soil. Mix well-rotted manure, organic compost and a little moss in a 1:2 ratio with sandy, chalky loam. Amend as above to achieve excellent drainage. The best soil pH for fuchsias is in the acidic range. Positioning The Container A sheltered spot that has an aspect other than northern and gets morning sunlight is ideal. Otherwise, filtered or dappled afternoon sunlight will work out well. If the plant is kept indoors, a normal room temperature between 14-22°C will suit it very well. However, most homes are not sufficiently humid for fuchsias, so indoor plants should be misted every two or three days. It should be a fine mist and should be carried out before noon. A potted fuchsia should not be exposed to cold drafts, high heat or dry weather. Even though it certainly won’t curl up and die if subject to these adverse conditions for a short time, its growth will suffer, flowering will be reduced and it may well wilt. A mild climate, gentle light and humidity are the conditions in which fuchsias flourish. Varieties To Grow For a plant that is not easy to care for in the UK, it surely comes as something of a surprise that upwards of 50 fuchsia varieties have been awarded the RHS Award of Garden Merit.1 The following varieties are not only AGM winners, they are hardy to H4 and are very readily sourced: ‘Snowcap’ ‘Princess Dollar’ ‘Mrs. Popple’ ‘Hawkshead’ ‘Genii’ ‘Tom Thumb’ ‘Lady Boothby’ Potting Up & Transplanting Fuchsias are fast-growing plants and they are also heavy feeders, so it would be a good idea to pot up the plant every year. Choose a pot that is two sizes up unless you plan to keep the plant to a tidy size by methodically pruning it. How Many Can You Plant Per Pot? You should plant one upright or bushy fuchsia per pot. You could, of course, put multiple plants in a planter, but I would not recommend this, as the shape and form of fuchsias mean that the aesthetics will be negatively impacted if they are housed in a planter. The number of trailing or mat-forming varieties you can plant per hanging basket depends on both the spread of the varieties and the size of the basket. Ongoing Care For Potted Fuchsia Plants “Plants growing in pots are reliant on you for food and water, so getting into a regular habit will pay dividends,” says Gail. Be sure to water your fuchsia plant religiously during the growing season. All through this period the soil should not be allowed to dry out and stay dry. As for the flowering season and during hot weather, the soil should be kept continuously moist and you may even need to water daily. However, the soil must never be soggy. During the active season, feed these plants monthly with a liquid formulation or an organic fertiliser. A balanced formula during spring and a high-potash formula during the flowering season would be ideal. I suggest that you dilute the fertiliser to about 75% of the strength recommended by the manufacturer. Pour the liquid near the edges of the container and then water it in. To maximise flowering, be sure to prune your fuchsias. These plants positively erupt with blooms when pruned and to top it off, pruning fuchsias is a very simple task. Be aware that fuchsias are very susceptible to various pests including aphids, mites and weevils. Fortunately, these pests can be treated with biological (predators) and organic controls. References 1. AGM Plants April 2023. (2023). Royal Horticultural Society. Retrieved April 25, 2023, from https://www.rhs.org.uk/plants/pdfs/agm-lists/agm-ornamentals.pdf
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Fuchsia Growers' 7 Tips For Growing Vertically With Hanging Baskets
IN THIS GUIDE 1) Select Varieties With A Trailing Habit 2) Choose A Basket With Ample Room 3) Line Your Hanging Container To Retain Moisture 4) Choose A Free-Draining Growing Medium 5) Plant Up In Springtime 6) Place Your Hanging Basket In Sheltered Sunlight 7) Get Your Watering & Feeding Right References Fuchsias are attractive flowering shrubs that vary greatly in hardiness. There are hardy fuchsias that can grow outside year-round and more tender types that will need to be overwintered indoors or under cover. These attractive plants are much admired for their charming, dangling, bell-shaped flowers that can last all summer long and come in a range of hues. They mostly come from South and Central America.1 Interestingly, the flowers and the berries are edible too, so these are potentially productive and useful plants as well as just ornamental ones.2 Fuchsias can be grown in the ground or in containers and with tender types in particular, the latter is the better option. However, you might be wondering whether you can use specific types of containers and whether you can grow fuchsias in hanging baskets. Difficulty Easy Equipment Required Hanging container, fuchsia plant(s), potting compost, fertiliser, hand trowel, watering can Fuchsias can indeed be grown in hanging baskets, though some varieties are better suited to cultivation in this type of container than others. These are very versatile plants and there are varieties that have a number of different growth habits and vary dramatically in size and spread. Growing fuchsias in hanging baskets can allow you to take advantage of their long-lasting floral displays to brighten up a wall or fence. Using hanging baskets and other hanging containers can be beneficial because it can allow you to think vertically and make the most of every inch of space. Using hanging baskets and adopting other vertical gardening strategies can be especially important where space is at a premium in small gardens or in undercover growing areas, like polytunnels or greenhouses. In any garden, fuchsias in hanging baskets can elevate your garden and really make it look great throughout the summer season. 1) Select Varieties With A Trailing Habit When choosing which Fuchsias to grow in a hanging basket, the first thing to work out is whether you are interested in growing a hardy type that will remain in your garden over a number of years or whether you are opting for a more tender cultivar. If you opt for the latter, you will also have to decide whether you will overwinter your tender fuchsia and where you will if you do wish to do so. If you do not want to overwinter tender fuchsias, you may simply grow them as annuals and discard them at the end of the summer season. “As many varieties of fuchsias have a wonderful pendular growth habit, I try to find as many places for hanging baskets and pots as I can,” shares Gail Barber from the Sutton Coldfield Fuchsia Society and Gardening Guild. “Wall baskets mounted on the garden fence also help to give the side of the house some colour and interest.” As Gail points out, the very best fuchsias to grow in hanging baskets are those which have a trailing habit. F. ‘Bella Evita’ Some fuchsias trail, some are climbers, while others have a more upright, bushy form. So, as well as understanding whether the fuchsias you are looking at are hardy or tender, you will also need to understand their growth habit and form. Some Fuchsia varieties that work well for hanging baskets include: ‘Bella Evita’ ‘Eruption’ ‘Swingtime’ 2) Choose A Basket With Ample Room When choosing a hanging basket for fuchsias, be sure to think about the size and growth habit of the particular fuchsia that you have chosen to grow. Also, consider whether you will grow fuchsias in a basket on their own or alongside other flowers suited to hanging basket cultivation. I personally always like to consider sustainability and try to make an eco-friendly choice whenever I choose any new container. Avoiding buying a new hanging basket and making your own using natural or reclaimed materials will be the most eco-friendly and sustainable option of all. 3) Line Your Hanging Container To Retain Moisture Depending on the type of hanging basket you have chosen, it might need to be lined. To keep fuchsias happy, choose a liner that will help retain moisture without causing waterlogged conditions. Getting this balance right when it comes to moisture retention and drainage is the key to successfully growing fuchsias in hanging baskets. 4) Choose A Free-Draining Growing Medium Fuchsias are not particularly fussy when it comes to their growing medium, but they do need a potting mix that will remain moist and yet be free-draining and well-aerated. For environmental reasons, it is always important to avoid a peat-based potting mix or compost. Instead, either purchase or make a peat-free potting mix to fill your hanging baskets. 5) Plant Up In Springtime Fuchsias are typically planted into hanging baskets where they are to grow in April or May. Fuchsias can look great in hanging baskets on their own or in mixed displays with other flowering plants suited to summer container growing. Plant up fuchsias in hanging baskets, making sure that they sit at the same level in the growing medium as they did in their previous pots. Water them in well after planting. 6) Place Your Hanging Basket In Sheltered Sunlight A hanging basket with fuchsias in it should be located in a sunny spot or in light shade, but the location should always be a sheltered one. A sheltered spot is best for all fuchsias and will be especially important if you have opted to grow more tender fuchsias in your hanging basket. Make sure that you do not position fuchsias in too shady a spot or too exposed a location and avoid any frost pockets where winter lingers. 7) Get Your Watering & Feeding Right Caring for fuchsias in hanging baskets is relatively easy and straightforward, but you do need to remember that fuchsias growing in hanging baskets will typically need to be watered more frequently than those growing in the ground. “When growing Fuchsias in containers, it is important to get the watering and feeding right to bring out the best in your plants,” shares Terry Sykes, a member of the West Yorkshire Fuchsia and Pot Plant Society. “Too much water and you might drown the roots, too little and your fuchsia could shrivel up and die.” Water your fuchsias to maintain moisture in dry conditions, taking care not to overwater and making sure that excess water can always drain away freely. When growing these plants, it is crucial to maintain good drainage at all times and not to let waterlogged conditions arise. Fuchsias grown in hanging baskets will also require regular feeding during the summer for best results. Feed when watering every couple of weeks with an organic liquid plant feed that is rich in potassium, like comfrey tea, throughout the summer months. “Because of the restricted root area, it is essential to regularly feed your hanging baskets to maintain adequate nutrition is available,” shares Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly. “If this is neglected, the nutrients in the compost will quickly be exhausted and growth and flowering will be impacted.” This should promote good flowering and keep the plants healthy and happy. “To prolong the flowering period, keep feeding and disbud constantly,” says Terry. Deadheading throughout the summer will help to keep your fuchsias blooming well, though dead flowers should usually fall off on their own, so you might not need to give them too much attention. Prune hardy types in spring and pinch out the shoots of young, tender fuchsia to create bushier and more floriferous plants. Overwinter tender types indoors or in a cool, frost-free location. To keep them alive during the dormant season, cut them back to around half their height and size, reduce watering, and re-pot or replenish the growing medium in your hanging basket and place it outside once more in spring. References 1. Fuchsia | San Diego Zoo Animals & Plants. (n.d.-b). https://animals.sandiegozoo.org/plants/fuchsia 2. Fuchsia magellanica. (n.d.). PFAF Plant Database. Retrieved April 12, 2023, from https://pfaf.org/user/Plant.aspx?LatinName=Fuchsia+magellanica
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Tender Fuchsia (H1-H3 Rated) Will Need Overwintering: Follow These 6 Steps
IN THIS GUIDE 1) Grow Tender Varieties In Containers 2) Bring The Pot-Grown Fuchsias Indoors 3) Cut Back The Plant 4) Tuck The Plant Away In A Suitable Spot 5) Maintain Throughout The Winter Fabulous fuchsias come in more sizes, shapes and everything else than you can shake a stick at. That ‘everything else’ includes hardiness ratings, as varieties range in hardiness all the way from H1 to H6. Fuchsias are perennials, whether they are deciduous or semi-evergreen, so you’ll want to keep that lovely plant well-nursed during the winter so you can enjoy the riotous medley of colour it will display as early as spring. Although fuchsias need climatic conditions to be in their own comfort zone more than most flowering plants, overwintering them to keep them in that zone is a fairly straightforward process, as indicated by the following steps: Grow tender varieties (H1-H3 rated fuchsia) in containers. Bring the containers indoors when temperatures drop (at least before the first frost). Cut back the plant to its main stems. Tuck the plant away in the right spot. Maintain these conditions during winter, watering irregularly to keep the roots moist but not waterlogged. Move outdoors following the last frost. The entire process is explained in more depth below. Difficulty Easy Equipment Required Gardening gloves and secateurs 1) Grow Tender Varieties In Containers Avoid planting H1-H3 fuchsia varieties in open ground in the UK, as you will most likely lose them in the winter if you do so. Of course, if you have a conservatory then you’re all set. Grow these varieties in containers, including hanging baskets. 2) Bring The Pot-Grown Fuchsias Indoors After the blooming season has ended and before the first frost, shift your fuchsia container indoors. This should be done gradually in the process of reverse hardening. Bring the container indoors for a couple of hours for one or two days, then for several hours for one or two days, and so on. This does not need to be an extended process; four or five times is quite enough. Initially, place the container on or by a window where it will get some morning sunlight or filtered sunlight in the afternoon. 3) Cut Back The Plant This step should be taken only if you do not intend to prune in spring. If you have a standard fuchsia, be it a mini standard, full standard or anything in between, cut it back to just leave 8-16cm of the main stem. If you have a more typical multi-stemmed plant in a pot or hanging basket, trim it so that all the stems are between 8-16cm from the soil. Not only will the plants produce fresh growth from the trimmed stems in spring, but this step will also assist the plants in transitioning to dormancy for the winter. Do not prune the plants again in spring. 4) Tuck The Plant Away In A Suitable Spot Place the container somewhere that is cool and dark and well-ventilated. A shed or basement with a window or ventilator should work well. The temperature should stay between 5-8°C. “I keep my fuchsias over winter in a cold greenhouse which suffices for most of the winter,” says Colin Skelly, a Master Horticulturist. “When temperatures drop towards freezing, I lay horticultural fleece over the fuchsias to prevent frost damage, adding an extra layer of fleece in very cold weather.” Be sure that the room is not overly dry and an unheated room is preferable, so long as the temperature is in the aforementioned range. 5) Maintain Throughout The Winter The plant needs to be watered but in moderation and infrequently. The aim is that the roots stay hydrated and do not dry out. A moisture meter will be helpful or you can try pushing a finger into the soil to give you an excellent indication as to whether it is time to water. Typically, watering every fortnight should suffice. The volume of water should be just enough to make the soil moist all through. In spring, the plant should be relocated to a spot where it gets filtered or indirect sunlight in the morning. As soon as you see fresh growth emerging, gradually increase the frequency of watering and the volume of water. After the last frost, the plant may be shifted outdoors, though it should be hardened off gradually.
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