Growing
Harvest Your Parsnips Later - The Taste Will Be Better Once They're Exposed To Frost
IN THIS GUIDE When To Harvest Parsnips The Harvesting Process Storing & Preserving Parsnips References Parsnips are a wonderful crop to grow in your garden. Though they will take up space in a garden for a relatively long period, there is nothing quite like being able to pull your own parsnips from the ground through autumn and early winter. The parsnip harvest is the reward for your efforts over the growing season, from sowing the seeds in spring to thinning your crop to keeping everything well mulched and weeded during the summer months. If you are growing parsnips for the first time, you may have some questions about the harvesting process. So, let’s take a look at the process involved and explain when and how to harvest this relatively easy and low-maintenance crop. Difficulty Easy Equipment Required Garden fork When To Harvest September to December When To Harvest Parsnips Parsnips can be ready to harvest from around September onwards. The roots can be lifted as soon as the foliage begins to die back towards the end of the season. However, parsnips are generally better harvested later, since their taste will improve after they are exposed to frost. Parsnips will typically be mature around 100-120 days after sowing, but remember that this is just a rough guideline and the time to harvest will vary depending on which variety you choose to grow. The time to harvest will also depend on where you live and the weather conditions. Though there are, of course, no rules about not harvesting while the parsnips are smaller and not fully grown, waiting until the foliage dies back means that you are getting as much edible root as possible. Waiting until later to harvest your parsnip crop also makes more sense because you will find that the parsnips taste so much better after they have been exposed to the first few touches of frost. The frost turns the starches in the root into sugars and makes the parsnips a little sweeter. The parsnips harvested just in time for Christmas dinner can be the sweetest and best-tasting imaginable – a very fine addition to your festive table. I tend to harvest a few parsnips for birthday meals in early October, then use more for bonfire night, before saving the rest of my crop for the yuletide season. I find that parsnips are something to look forward to as the weather grows colder and the nights draw in. The Harvesting Process When you are harvesting your parsnips, do not tug on your parsnips from above. To make sure you get them out intact and do not damage them, use a garden fork to pry them up from the soil. The roots can easily break if you tug them or are careless as you try to remove them from the soil. If you break your parsnips you can still eat them, but they won’t store well and will have to be cooked immediately or frozen and preserved for later use. Gently ease a large garden fork into the soil, remembering that parsnip roots can go pretty deep, and lever upwards to bring the parsnips up from the soil. “I try to harvest parsnips when the soil is moist but not wet,” Colin Skelly, a Horticultural Consultant, explains. “I find that they are easier to remove, hold less soil, require less cleaning, and cause less compaction on the surrounding soil.” Try to lever up a whole area of soil rather than the parsnip itself so that you do not damage the parsnip root in the process. Storing & Preserving Parsnips As mentioned above, the parsnips can be left in the ground and harvested as and when you want them through the winter months. However, in areas where the ground freezes solid, you may like to lift and store your roots before Christmas. Of course, you might use up the parsnips that you harvest right away. In my home, we love honey-roasted parsnips and also use parsnips in hearty soups over the winter. In fact, there are many different recipes that you might try.1 However, there may be times when you want to store parsnips out of the ground for longer. Undamaged parsnip roots that are in good condition can be stored in a root cellar or other suitable spot to use up over the winter months. Like carrots and other root vegetables, you can store them in a box of sawdust or damp sand to prolong their life in storage. However, in most cases, parsnips will store best when kept in the ground until used. You can simply leave them in situ and ease each one from the ground as and when it is required. If you do not have anywhere suitable to store parsnips traditionally and cannot keep them in the ground, you can slice, par-boil and freeze them for later use. You can also use a pressure canner and can parsnips using a trusted recipe if you have a suitable canner at home. References 1. Hardwick, N. (2023, March 10). 20 ways with parsnips. BBC Good Food. Retrieved March 27, 2023, from https://www.bbcgoodfood.com/howto/guide/top-10-ways-parsnips
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Sow Parsnips In Spring: This Crop Needs A Long Time To Mature And Create Roots
IN THIS GUIDE When To Sow Parsnips 1) Choose & Source Your Parsnip Seeds 2) Decide Where To Grow 3) Sow The Seeds Parsnips are a biennial root crop that should certainly be considered by any home grower. Though they take a relatively long time to grow, the roots that develop will make a delicious addition to your kitchen and are a great-value crop from the garden. Parsnips are often one of the first crops sown by gardeners in the spring, but they can be sown any time between March and May to provide a harvest in the following autumn or winter. If you would like to grow your own parsnips from seed then there are a number of things to do. Here is an outline of the process: Choose a variety of parsnips and source the seeds. Decide where you will sow your parsnips. Sow the parsnip seeds directly where they are to grow. Read on for a more in-depth discussion of the above. Difficulty Easy Equipment Required Seeds, mulch, dibber When To Sow March to May When To Sow Parsnips Parsnips should not be harvested until autumn or winter, but you need to sow the seeds in spring, as this crop needs quite a long time to mature and create good-sized roots. Parsnips can be sown as early as February in warmer and more southerly parts of the country. However, I find it is generally best to hold off and sow in March, April or even May. Leaving it a little later before sowing seems to yield better germination rates and get plants off to a better start. The seeds do take a long while to emerge – often up to as long as three weeks, so don’t give up on your parsnips too early. When precisely you decide to sow will depend on where you live, the conditions in your garden and the weather conditions in a given year. To prevent issues, I’d advise from experience to wait until mid-spring where you live, sowing when the soil has begun to warm and the winter chill is behind you. This will likely be sometime around the last frost date. 1) Choose & Source Your Parsnip Seeds Before you can sow parsnip seeds, you will need to decide which particular variety of parsnip you would like to grow. There are varieties better suited to different soil types and different parts of the UK, so it is a good idea to do your homework to make sure that you select parsnips that will grow well where you live and in the conditions that you can provide. Suttons recommends ‘F1 Gladiator’ and ‘Tender and True’ as their favourite varieties for sowing in spring. 2) Decide Where To Grow Next, you will naturally have to spend some time thinking about where you would like to grow parsnips and where they might do well. You might grow them in raised beds, in the ground or in containers if there is no other space. Parsnips like an open spot that is as sunny as possible. They require deep, light and friable soil that remains moderately moist throughout the growing season. As well as considering the basic needs of the plants, it is also important to think about where parsnips will fit into your overall garden plan and which other crops they might grow alongside. Personally, I like to grow parsnips alongside carrots, with rows of each of these interspersed between rows of spring onions or bulb onions. Parsnips, like carrots, are plagued by the dreaded carrot fly, but onions and other alliums mask the smell of the parsnips and carrots and help keep them safe from these pests. In return, the scent of the carrots and parsnips keeps onion flies away. I also like to sow radishes in the same rows as the parsnip and carrot seeds at the same time. The parsnip and carrot seeds can both take up to 3 weeks or so to germinate, while radishes pop up quickly and mark the rows. The radishes will be harvested before the parsnips and carrots need space. 3) Sow The Seeds It is definitely best to sow parsnips directly, like carrots and some other common root crops, where they are to grow. While many of the crops in UK gardens are best sown indoors and transplanted to the garden after germination has taken place, parsnips do not fall into this category. In fact, they do not like transplantation at all. If you have trouble with germination, it may be that you have sown your parsnip seeds too early or that they have been eaten by pests before germination could take place. Wait a week or two if you think you have sown them too early, then try again. In any case, you may wish to sow successional batches of parsnips so that you can harvest them from early autumn right through to December and beyond. “If successional sowing, do your research and select different cultivars for different harvest timings,” advises Colin Skelly, a Master Horticulturist. “Some are better early and some are better standing longer in the soil. Also, try some shorter and longer cultivars. You’ll quickly get to know which suits your soil conditions best.” Sowing some every week or two from March until May will allow you to enjoy a staggered harvest. You can sow parsnips in rows or in another configuration, but either way you should sow the seeds thinly in drills. After germination, thin the seedlings to give an eventual spacing of around 15cm between each plant when the plants reach around 2.5cm tall. Keep your seedlings weed-free and water when it is very dry. Mulch around the plants in early summer with good quality homemade compost or other organic material.
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Deficiencies And Diseases - The 4 Common Causes Of Yellow Leaves On Alliums
IN THIS GUIDE 1) Natural Dieback 2) Issues With Watering 3) Nutrient Deficiencies 4) Plant Diseases References Alliums can be both edible and ornamental plants. Whether you are growing onions, garlic, leeks or other edibles or common ornamental Alliums in a flower garden, these plants can be of great value and are relatively easy to grow. However, whether you are growing Alliums for their vegetables or flowers, problems can arise. One symptom that means that things are not necessarily going to plan is yellow leaves (which can often become brown and wilted in time). Though yellowing leaves are not always a sign of a problem, they can be caused by: The natural dieback of the plant (part of the lifecycle of the plant). Issues with water management – more typically a lack of water. Deficiencies due to a lack of essential nutrients in the soil. Plant diseases like onion white rot and downy mildew, which commonly affect members of the Allium family. You can read more on each of these suggested causes – and the signs to look out for – below. 1) Natural Dieback While yellow leaves can seem worrying, they are sometimes caused by a natural part of an Allium’s lifecycle and are not something to worry about. Leaves can begin to turn yellow and die back even as the plant flowers, so this can simply be the natural course of things and not a sign of a physiological issue at all. Once they begin to die back, the leaves can be removed from the Alliums with no ill effect. Many gardeners will simply ensure that they hide the yellowing leaves on ornamental Alliums with other companion plants that still allow the lovely flowers to be seen. Of course, with edible types like bulb onions, yellowing foliage is a sign to look out for to understand when crops are ready to harvest. Usually, you should harvest crops like onions or garlic when a large proportion of the foliage of the plants has begun to yellow and droop. So, remember, timing is key when it comes to working out whether yellow leaves on Alliums are a sign of a problem or not. If yellowing occurs when natural dieback is expected, then this is unlikely to be a problem at all. 2) Issues With Watering Sometimes, when leaves on Alliums turn yellow before time, this can be related to watering issues. The plants may either have received too much water or too little. Severe drought can potentially cause plants stress and lead to yellowing and then browning leaves. Waterlogging can also be a problem for many Alliums. Alliums generally like and require free-draining conditions and are actually fairly drought tolerant, but when they sit in wet soil, the bulbs can rot which can manifest as yellowing leaves. If the problem is water-related, you might be able to rectify the problem by getting the watering right or improving the drainage in your growing area or container. 3) Nutrient Deficiencies Occasionally, yellow leaves on Alliums might be due to nutrient deficiencies of some kind. It can be challenging without soil testing to determine which nutrients might be in short supply in the soil. However, feeding with an organic plant feed can often help to address any issues of this kind. 4) Plant Diseases One of the more common reasons why Alliums may develop yellow leaves early is, unfortunately, due to plant diseases – to which these plants can be susceptible. The plants in this family, both edible and ornamental, can fall prey to problems like onion white rot and downy mildew, both of which can turn the leaves yellow. With onion white rot, yellowing leaves are one of the first signs that the bulbs are affected, infected by the soil-borne fungus Stromatinia cepivora. Unfortunately, this fungus remains in the soil and is very difficult to eradicate, meaning that you may not be able to grow any Alliums there for many years if this problem arises. Onion downy mildew causes leaves to turn yellow and die back, with white and then purple fungal growth of the fungus-like Peronospora destructor, which spreads from the leaves to the bulbs.1 The problem can spread from one year to the next in infected bulbs in the garden, so bulbs might have to be lifted rather than left in place over winter where this has been an issue. “Both onion white rot and onion downy mildew are more likely to occur in cool, damp summers,” says Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly. “If the former occurs, the disease will recur until a break in the presence of Alliums for a period of years. For the latter, the disposal of infected bulbs may be sufficient to allow growing the following year although spores can persist in the soil.” References 1. Develash, R. K., & Sugha, S. K. (1997). Management of downy mildew (Peronospora destructor) of onion (Allium cepa). Crop Protection, 16(1), 63–67. https://doi.org/10.1016/s0261-2194(96)00056-7
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Deadheading Alliums Is Really Only Necessary To Prevent The Seeds Spreading
IN THIS GUIDE Do You Need To Deadhead Alliums? When To Remove Allium Flowers Deadheading For Aesthetic Reasons When To Not Deadhead Alliums planted for ornamental purposes are also useful for bringing in beneficial wildlife and managing pests in an organic garden. Of course, many members of the Allium family are also common culinary crops. If you choose the right location and care for them correctly, Alliums can reward you in more ways than simply aesthetically. One question that you might have when growing Alliums for ornamental reasons is whether or not deadheading is required; you might also have questions about removing flowers from edible crops. We explore each of these topics in this guide. Difficulty Easy Equipment Required Secateurs When To Deadhead Autumn (after flowering) Do You Need To Deadhead Alliums? You don’t need to deadhead Alliums at all. There is not really any benefit for the plants and the only reason that you might do so is for personal preference. If you like a very neat and tidy garden and don’t find Allium seed heads attractive, then you may simply decide to get rid of them for aesthetic reasons once they fade. When To Remove Allium Flowers In the case of certain Alliums (those grown for edible bulbs), you may actually have removed flowers before they fade. Edible Allium flowers are often removed in order to allow the plants to focus on creating the bulb rather than on seed production. An interesting side note is that the flowers are edible too, so you can harvest them for use in salads or as a garnish rather than just removing them. Of course, if you have already removed the flowers from Allium plants then you will not need to think about deadheading. Deadheading For Aesthetic Reasons If you do not like the appearance of faded Allium flowers, you can choose to remove these by simply cutting off the stalk on which they grow as close to the base as possible. You can also deadhead if you would prefer not to allow the plants to go to seed. Just make sure that you do not remove any of the foliage before this has naturally started to die back, as doing so can weaken the plant. When To Not Deadhead Personally, I would not recommend deadheading. Like many other gardeners, I find the faded flowers on Alliums extremely ornamental and attractive in their own right, giving a far more long-lasting display than the flowers themselves. “I grow ornamental Alliums partly for the attractive, often long-lasting, structure provided by the seedheads,” shares Colin Skelly, a Master Horticulturist. “However, for some of the smaller, spreading species, you may wish to remove seed heads to limit the spread.” If you want to create a wildlife-friendly garden, it is definitely also worth mentioning that deadheading is not the best idea. Birds and other wildlife can benefit if you decide to leave the Allium flowers in place for seeds to form. So, if you prioritise nature over aesthetics, even if you personally don’t love the look of the spent flowers, I would say it is better to leave them in place. Of course, you should also avoid deadheading Alliums if you want the flowers to produce seeds. If you want to collect the seeds to sow or wish to allow the plants to self-seed in your garden, then deadheading is again something that you should forgo when it comes to these plants.
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Pruning Alliums Could Be A Waste Of Time - Here's Why You Might Not Want To Bother
IN THIS GUIDE Do You Even Need To Prune Alliums? When To Cut Back Alliums How To Prune Alliums Pruning is not really something that you will have to dedicate a lot of time to when growing Alliums. Depending on which type of Alliums you are growing, you might have to think about removing flowers to encourage the plants to focus on bulb growth. You might also wish to cut back the foliage on Alliums once this dies back in autumn. However, neither of these jobs is essential and it is often best not to deadhead or cut back at all unless you prefer to do so for aesthetic reasons. Difficulty Easy Equipment Required Secateurs When To Prune Autumn (after the foliage has died back) Do You Even Need To Prune Alliums? Whether or not you will cut back flowering heads or foliage on Alliums is largely a matter of personal preference. Ornamental Alliums are species that are typically cultivated for their flowers. However, other Alliums, such as onions, shallots and garlic, are cultivated for their edible yields. With edible Alliums, you may sometimes have to consider cutting back and removing the flowering heads when these form in order to refocus the plant’s production on edible bulbs. If we are talking about ornamental Alliums, then it is typical for many gardeners to deadhead by removing faded blooms, but this is not necessary and you might gain a range of benefits by leaving the seed heads in place. Refer to our guide on deadheading for more guidance on this, but I prefer to leave dried Allium heads in place because, for one thing, they look rather attractive even once the flowers have faded, retaining a kind of architectural or structural appeal. I also prefer to leave them in place because the Allium seeds are eaten by wildlife, drawing even more beneficial creatures to the garden. Also, when we allow the seeds to mature, we get the possibility of self-seeding. However, if you do not wish for the plants to self-seed or do not like the look of the faded flowers, then you can cut these flowering stalks down to the base. Just make sure that you do not cut foliage on Alliums when this is still green. When To Cut Back Alliums “It is a sad fact of gardening life that allium foliage tends to look a bit haggard when flowering starts, but you must patiently wait 6 weeks after flowering before trimming it or pulling it off if you feel the need to,” shares Peter Lickorish, a Master Horticulturist. “I find that mixing alliums with low spreading herbaceous perennials, like Nepeta, disguises the foliage, or it can partly be hidden behind a low hedge – such as Ilex crenata. “You may find the foliage of the yellow Allium moly is more likely to remain in fine form during flowering.” Cutting back any foliage on your Alliums will reduce the amount of energy that the plants are able to gather through photosynthesis and store within their bulbs. Whether we are talking about ornamental Alliums or the common edible ones that we might find in vegetable gardens, pruning or cutting back foliage while the leaves are still green should not be on the agenda. Instead, you should always make sure that you wait at least until the foliage turns yellow and begins to die back. With some Alliums, like those used as annual vegetable crops, you may think about harvesting at this time. With ornamentals, you might want to cut back to keep things neat and tidy at this stage. However, cutting back the foliage once it begins to die back is not essential at all and you can often simply let it die back naturally over the winter months. Not cutting back in autumn can also be a better choice for wildlife in the winter garden, since any remaining foliage and stalks can be useful for insects and other creatures that are sheltering from the cold. How To Prune Alliums If you do decide that you would like to deadhead and cut back Alliums, then it is important to make sure that you do not do the latter too soon. Make sure that you wait until the leaves have begun to die back naturally and have finished photosynthesising before you cut them back. If you are cutting back flowers from edible Alliums to focus the plant’s energy on producing a bigger bulb, then you should cut back any flowering stalks as soon as you see them. If you decide to deadhead ornamental Alliums, simply snip the flowering stalks off at the base with a clean, sharp pair of secateurs or another appropriate gardening tool. Just make sure that you do not take off the foliage at the same time, as this, as mentioned above, is still required for photosynthesis. If you are cutting back foliage of perennial edible Alliums or ornamentals at the end of the growing season as it begins to die back to neaten up your garden, then simply cut off this foliage at the base. The energy that the foliage captured during the summer will be retained within the bulb and, even though you cannot see anything through the winter above ground, new growth will emerge in the spring. With some Alliums, you might lift and divide or store the bulbs for later.
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Sycamores Are Easy To Grow And Care For Says This Master Horticulturist
IN THIS GUIDE Overview How To Grow A Sycamore Tree Planting Guidelines How To Care For Sycamore Saplings Ongoing Sycamore Care FAQs References Graceful when young and sturdy when old, the sycamore has an inverted-conical, domed or broadly rounded crown of lush dark green foliage. The sycamore tree is often selected for planting in suburban parks and city boulevards for shade and landscaping purposes. This tough species can also withstand both strong winds near cliffs and sea spray by the coast, making great windbreaks when in leaf. Pasture or forest, city or country, cliff or coast, sycamores are unfussy and will readily grow vigorously anywhere and everywhere, including your garden. Overview Botanical Name Acer pseudoplatanus Common Name(s) Sycamore / Great Maple / Harewood Plant Type Perennial tree Native Area Central / Southeastern Europe Hardiness Rating H7 Foliage Deciduous Flowers Visually insignificant, pendent, lime-green, catkin-like, nectar-rich panicles When To Sow August to September When To Plant April to May When To Prune January to February The sycamore originates in a swath of land from central to southeastern Europe.1 Many centuries back, it became naturalised in the British Isles without ever really being considered invasive.2 Another name for this tree is the ‘Great Maple’, which reflects its enormous size when fully mature. In fact, these trees can reach over 30m in the wild, with some even hitting 40m. Their canopies have spreads of around 30m, whilst their branches often measure 1m across and can exceed 1.5m. “I have found Sycamore to be a very wind-tolerant tree, often forming a low, dense dome in very windy spots,” shares Horticultural Consultant Colin Skelly. “If you have a smaller garden, it can be managed through periodic pollarding or coppicing.” How To Grow A Sycamore Tree Sycamores are commonly and inexpensively grown from seed. An equally common but more costly option, though one that is easier to grow, is to purchase a bare-root or a potted sapling from a nursery specialising in trees. The advantage of the latter is that you can select a particular cultivar, such as ‘Leopoldii’ for its delightful variegated foliage or ‘Prinz Handjéry’ for its very manageable and compact size. Sycamore seeds can be collected from the ground under an existing tree in autumn. As a species that self-seeds so readily, grows in inhospitable places and has colonised new territories, sycamores can be easy to grow. That admitted, if you optimise the growing conditions, not only do you increase the chances of germination, you are more likely to develop a healthy, strong and even tree. Note that these trees’ shallow, spreading and strong roots may disturb the ground by pushing up pavers or causing a path to become uneven. They can also tap into a cistern or septic system; you should choose your planting spot with these possibilities in mind. Planting Guidelines Seeds can be sown directly into the open ground in autumn or started in pots in spring. The former method is the quick and careless one that you well may attempt for any old sycamore seeds you have collected. The latter is the stricter method that is preferable for planting the seeds of special cultivars. To promote germination for spring sowing, soak the seeds overnight or for up to 24 hours in tepid water. Prepare clay pots with potting mix or seed-starter mix. Sow seeds by placing them on the soil and lightly covering them with the growing medium to about 1cm. Keep the pots in full sun and keep them moist. When the seedlings have 6-8 true leaves, transplant them into the open ground in the right kind of soil. Dig a hole 2-3 times as big as the width and the depth of the pot, then dampen the ground. Before you remove the sapling from the pot, be sure that you know where the soil line is. If you need to, mark it on the incipient trunk. Gently remove the sapling from the pot, placing it in the hole as you spread out the roots. Examine it to make sure that its soil line is set to the surface of the ground. Backfill the hole, tamping down the soil to eliminate air pockets, watering lightly as you do so. Try to ensure that the sapling is perfectly straight as you backfill. Fill up the hole so that the soil level is not any higher than what it was in the pot and pack in the soil. Water the transplanted sapling. How To Care For Sycamore Saplings Just like any other sapling, a sycamore sapling will require initial care. After that, except for watering under unusual circumstances, a sycamore tree does not need any care, as such. Saplings and young trees should be watered regularly. Do not allow the soil to dry out and stay dry for more than a couple of days. If you see any sign of the sapling or young tree developing a lean, stake it. If you have planted it in a spot where adverse conditions, such as loose soil or sloping grounds exist, you may wish to pre-emptively stake it. Ongoing Sycamore Care Feeding During the sapling and young tree stages, apply a bone fertiliser once in spring. Sprinkle it sparingly well away from the root crown, then work and water it in. After the tree has matured and is 6 or more years old, you may feed it annually in spring with a balanced formula. In spring you can mulch the tree to conserve moisture. An organic mulch made of bark and wood chips would be a good choice. Leave a ring of open ground around the trunk with its width being proportional to the width of the trunk. Light Requirements A sycamore sapling should preferably be planted in a position in full sun or in partial shade. Ultimately, it is the sycamore tree itself that will shield you from the hot sun during the dog days of August. Soil Sycamores do not have very specific soil requirements and will grow in most types of soil in the UK. That said, what is best for the tree is fairly fertile soil that is preferably well-drained and mostly moist. These trees will grow well in a fairly wide range of soil pH levels. Watering Fully grown sycamores have shallow but spreading and strong roots. During normal seasonal weather, they do not need watering, as rainwater and subsoil water will suffice. However, there is nothing wrong with dropping the hosepipe by the tree and turning on the faucet every now and then. In unusual circumstances, such as scorching summers or prolonged drought, watering is necessary. In such circumstances, drench the ground 1-2 times a week. The ornamental cultivars, especially the smaller ones, should be watered weekly. Pruning Sycamores do not require pruning. All that you need to do is to prune crossing branches and any branch that may be growing at an incorrect angle. For young trees, you may use an anvil lopper or a pruning saw. Pruning may also be done to keep the tree to a manageable size in a garden – this is typically done by pollarding it. Pruning should be done during dormancy, in January or February. Propagating Sycamores propagate themselves through those amusing helicopter-like seeds that rotate as they float through the air. Propagation by seed is by far the most straightforward way to get more of these plants. Besides seeds, sycamores can also be propagated by two other methods, though neither is as easy or as reliable as using seeds. The first method is by softwood cuttings taken in late spring or early summer. It is difficult to obtain softwood cuttings from a full-grown sycamore and they do not root very readily. Conversely, it is easier to obtain them from a very young tree and they also root with a relatively higher rate of success. The second method is by air layering in spring or autumn, which is a very technical and somewhat complicated method. If you intend to propagate by air layering a stem from a full-grown tree, this will be difficult but can be a reliable method of propagating this tree and offers a very high rate of success. Common Problems Aphids and gall mites are the most common problems that sycamores face, but neither is particularly destructive. Aphids are almost a natural consequence of sycamores because of their floral nectar. A host of methods to control or eliminate these pests are available. Another problem in the nuisance category is caterpillars, specifically winter moth caterpillars. On mature trees, this pest is usually ignored, but on saplings and young trees, it would be a good idea to control them using biological methods. Scale insects, particularly horse chestnut scale, are probably the most damaging pests that can attack sycamores, as they suck sap and cause minor deformities. A serious infestation would weaken the tree. To tackle scale, start early with biological controls and if that does not help, move on to pesticides. Sooty bark disease is a very serious disease that sometimes strikes sycamores that cannot be controlled by amateur gardeners. If this fungal disease is not successfully treated by a professional it can kill the tree. FAQs How Long Do Sycamores Live? A lifespan of 200-plus years is quite normal and a good many specimens have lived to 300 years. They can live for even 400 years or more.3 Are These Trees Fast-Growing Or Invasive? The species tree is definitely very fast growing, whilst oddly enough, a few cultivars, such as ‘Esk Sunset’, are very slow growing! Though they are sometimes considered a weed and gradually colonise tracts of land, they are not considered or classified as invasive in the UK. Are They Suitable For Growing In Pots? The species tree is most unsuitable for growing in pots. However, the more diminutive cultivars, such as the aforementioned ‘Esk Sunset’, can be grown in large containers, though container-growing cannot really be called suitable for any sycamore. Can You Pollard A Sycamore Tree? Yes. It is not uncommon to pollard species of sycamores in gardens, parks and other urban areas, for size and decorative effect. Smaller cultivars should not be pollarded, at least not by lay gardeners. References 1. Acer pseudoplatanus. (n.d.). Kew Royal Botanic Gardens. Retrieved March 27, 2023, from https://powo.science.kew.org/taxon/urn:lsid:ipni.org:names:781462-1#distributions 2. Sycamore (Acer pseudoplatanus). (n.d.-b). Woodland Trust. Retrieved March 27, 2023, from https://www.woodlandtrust.org.uk/trees-woods-and-wildlife/british-trees/a-z-of-british-trees/sycamore/ 3. Sycamore. (n.d.). Heart of England Forest. Retrieved April 13, 2023, from https://heartofenglandforest.org/sycamore
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18 Fantastic Flowers To Plant In June
IN THIS GUIDE 1) Garden Nasturtium 2) Cosmea 3) Hyacinth Bean 4) Common Foxglove 5) Poached Egg Flower 6) Jasmine Tobacco 7) Sunflower 8) Blue Eryngo 9) Dyer’s Tickseed 10) Orange Daylily 11) Cardinal Flower 12) Primrose Candelabra Hybrids 13) False Bishop’s Weed 14) Blanketflower 15) Dahlia 16) Greater Masterwort 17) African Marigold 18) Christmas Rose Unsure of what flowers to plant in June? Well, look no further, as this guide contains eighteen different flowering plants for you to plant in the month of June for stunning colour throughout the rest of summer. “I’d say my favourite month in the garden is perhaps June, because I’ve done all the long, hard, intensive work of preparing the garden for the season,” shares Sunil Patel from 13 Broom Acres. “I’ve cleared the borders, pruned, set out the patio pots and sowed the seeds. June is when I can let go, sit back on a lounger in the sunshine and let the garden reach its flowering peak. “It brings flowering mock oranges, delphiniums, roses, early herbaceous perennials; there’s so much to see in June that it can almost be overwhelming.” If you’re like Sunil and finished with planting but you’re looking for a small addition to your garden, you’re in luck. Annuals are commonly planted out in the early summer months, so they feature heavily on this list, but there are also some great perennial options to choose from if you’re looking for a more permanent fixture in your garden displays. 1) Garden Nasturtium BOTANICAL NAME: Tropaeolum majus HARDINESS RATING: H3 PLANT TYPE: annual / climber FLOWERS: red, orange and yellow FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer / autumn My first pick is a cottage garden classic that is beloved by gardeners in the UK. Garden nasturtiums can be planted out directly in June and can start flowering as early as August of the same year, producing gorgeous, fiery blooms that will give your displays a burst of colour. Grown as an annual, this plant has a climbing or trailing habit and will look best when it is planted somewhere that it can spread freely. This is also a wonderful companion plant for vegetables, so if you have your own patch for growing, try adding nasturtiums in between your crops. 2) Cosmea BOTANICAL NAME: Cosmos bipinnatus HARDINESS RATING: H3 PLANT TYPE: annual FLOWERS: pink and white FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer / autumn Another frost-tender annual, cosmea produces dainty pink and white blooms that grow on stems up to 2 metres tall in the late summer and autumn. These plants are easy to grow from seed, as long as they are grown in a site where they will receive full sun, and can be planted out in June for autumn blooms. Cosmos are a great plant for pollinators, so if you’re looking for annuals that will benefit the wildlife near you, this is a great pick. “If your plants are tall when planting, cutting back by a third encourages them to bush out and produce a mound of blooms,” shares Horticultural Consultant Peter Lickorish. 3) Hyacinth Bean BOTANICAL NAME: Lablab purpureus HARDINESS RATING: H1C PLANT TYPE: perennial / climber FLOWERS: purple and white FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer / autumn A unique perennial, Lablab purpureus bears white and purple pea-like blooms from August when planted in June. More commonly referred to as the hyacinth bean, this climbing perennial should be grown indoors in the UK for the majority of the year, as any cold weather will damage the plant, especially if sown directly into the ground. If you still want to enjoy these blooms in your garden the following year, I’d recommend planting hyacinth beans in pots so you can easily move them to a warmer location after the summer months. 4) Common Foxglove BOTANICAL NAME: Digitalis purpurea HARDINESS RATING: H7 PLANT TYPE: biennial FLOWERS: purple FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer Foxglove is a popular flower for wildlife gardens, as bees and butterflies love the beautiful, tubular purple flowers they share in the late summer months. Provided you are not growing from seed, you can plant foxglove in June for flowers that will appear the same year in most locations. If you’re growing them from seed, you will need to wait until the following year for them to flower, due to their two-year lifecycle. I personally think this biennial looks wonderful when planted out in a wildflower meadow with other low-maintenance flowering plants. 5) Poached Egg Flower BOTANICAL NAME: Limnanthes douglasii HARDINESS RATING: H5 PLANT TYPE: annual FLOWERS: white and yellow FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer / autumn One of my favourite annuals on this list, the poached egg flower is a hardy annual that produces bowl-shaped flowers with white tips and a yellow centre. When grown in full sun, Limnanthes douglasii produces flowers from late summer right up until the first frosts. Plant this annual in your flower borders or beds or in mixed annual container displays for beautiful results. “If combined with lots of other plants, keep it near the front of a bed to let this diminutive plant shine,” suggests Peter. “Once sown, it may freely self-seed to form a frothy ground-cover carpet.” 6) Jasmine Tobacco BOTANICAL NAME: Nicotiana alata HARDINESS RATING: H3 PLANT TYPE: perennial FLOWERS: pink, green and yellow FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer / autumn Beloved by pollinators, jasmine tobacco produces beautifully scented star-shaped blooms from August when sown in June. This plant can reach up to 1.5m in height and is best grown in a sheltered position where it can be protected from strong winds. A short-lived perennial, you can use jasmine tobacco as a bedding plant or your flower borders or beds. 7) Sunflower BOTANICAL NAME: Helianthus annuus HARDINESS RATING: H4 PLANT TYPE: annual FLOWERS: brown and yellow FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer June is not too late to plant sunflower seeds in your garden. In fact, it’s a great time to do it, as any cold weather should have completely passed! Growing up to a huge 4m in height (if sown early enough) I think sunflowers look best planted in a garden border or against a wall. Make sure you are correctly supporting your sunflowers so that there is no risk of their stems getting damaged – this is one of the most common ways in which sunflowers can fail to flower. 8) Blue Eryngo BOTANICAL NAME: Eryngium planum HARDINESS RATING: H5 PLANT TYPE: perennial FLOWERS: blue FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer / autumn With unusual blue stems, spiky silvery leaves and clusters of tiny flowers that are surrounded by blue spiny bracts, blue eryngo is a great choice for the avant-garde gardener. This perennial will flower from August when planted out in June and can produce impressive blooms year after year. Blue eryngo needs to be planted in a sheltered position where it will receive full sun, and will look great in a traditional cottage garden planting scheme. “One of my favourite things about this plant is that it’s one of few plants which can be propagated by root cuttings in winter,” shares Peter. “Young plants produced this way may be ready for life in the big wide border by June.” 9) Dyer’s Tickseed BOTANICAL NAME: Coreopsis tinctoria HARDINESS RATING: H6 PLANT TYPE: annual FLOWERS: red and yellow FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer / autumn Dyer’s tickseed is an annual that produces lovely red and yellow flowers in the late summer and autumn when planted out in June. It is a great choice for pollinators and wildlife-friendly gardens and also for growing in a wildflower meadow, as it is a relatively unfussy plant. You can also make use of the cut flowers in displays around your home, but I’d recommend letting them grow naturally so the bees can make use of them whilst they are in flower. 10) Orange Daylily BOTANICAL NAME: Hemerocallis fulva HARDINESS RATING: H7 PLANT TYPE: perennial FLOWERS: orange and red FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer Daylilies are great for June planting as they can become fully established over the winter months and then produce beautiful flowers the following summer. The orange daylily is no exception to this and will grow happily in most conditions year-round. This unfussy perennial will look great when planted with other perennials in a flower bed or can also be used for cottage garden planting. 11) Cardinal Flower BOTANICAL NAME: Lobelia cardinalis HARDINESS RATING: H3 PLANT TYPE: perennial FLOWERS: red FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer / autumn Cardinal flowers are one of my favourite plants for autumn flowering, as their deep red blooms look stunning against the fading autumn foliage of many other plants. However, they can be difficult to grow in a garden, since they love poorly-drained, loamy soil and will not grow well if these conditions are not met. So, if you have a pond or a patch of soil in your garden that tends to get waterlogged, these beautiful perennials will help to brighten those spaces. “Though they love moisture in summer, too much winter wet can kill these garden divas off, so consider lifting and potting over winter,” Peter advises. 12) Primrose Candelabra Hybrids BOTANICAL NAME: Primula Candelabra hybrids HARDINESS RATING: H5 PLANT TYPE: perennial FLOWERS: varies FLOWERING SEASON(S): spring / summer Producing small flowers in a range of different colours from bright orange to creamy yellow, candelabra primula hybrids are great for planting out in June for flowers the following spring. Preferring moist, acidic soil with a mix of clay or loam, these flowers are perfect if you are growing in garden soil that has an acidic pH. 13) False Bishop’s Weed BOTANICAL NAME: Ammi majus HARDINESS RATING: H6 PLANT TYPE: annual FLOWERS: white FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer Ammi majus, often referred to as ‘false bishop’s weed’, is a hardy annual that produces lovely clusters of white flowers in the summer after planting. I love this plant – it is relatively unfussy about its conditions and its flowering umbels bring a bright, airy look to flower beds. Try growing Ammi majus from seed in a wildflower meadow display with other annuals for a beautiful summer-flowering spectacle. 14) Blanketflower BOTANICAL NAME: Gaillardia HARDINESS RATING: H4 PLANT TYPE: perennial FLOWERS: red and yellow FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer / autumn Gaillardia is a lovely perennial that has frilly, daisy-like red and yellow flowers that can be seen as early as September when planted in June. As a half-hardy plant, you might need to keep an eye on these perennials over the cooler months of the year, and they will benefit from protective measures such as a layer of mulch placed around their stems in the winter. 15) Dahlia BOTANICAL NAME: dahlia HARDINESS RATING: varies PLANT TYPE: perennial FLOWERS: varies FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer Dahlias are stunning herbaceous perennials that are commonly grown for their showy flowers that bloom throughout the summer. There are cultivars in a multitude of colours and there are so many brilliant varieties that I couldn’t pick just one for this list. If you’re interested in planting dahlias in June, try ‘Waltzing Mathilda’, ‘Café au Lait’ or ‘Arabian Night’ for flowers that will not only delight you and your visitors, but the former will be adored by local pollinators too! 16) Greater Masterwort BOTANICAL NAME: Astrantia major HARDINESS RATING: H7 PLANT TYPE: perennial FLOWERS: pink, green and white FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer The greater masterwort produces lots of tiny pink and white bracts that look like petals, creating bundles of flower-like heads that grow from stems that are usually around 60cm tall. If planted in June, this will give this perennial time to develop over autumn and winter so it can burst into colour the following year. Given its tolerance of light shade, you can use this plant to underplant large shrubs or other flowers – including on the edge of garden beds and herbaceous borders. 17) African Marigold BOTANICAL NAME: Tagetes erecta HARDINESS RATING: H2 PLANT TYPE: annual FLOWERS: yellow, orange and white FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer / autumn A frost-tender annual, the African marigold produces glorious double flowers that can be orange, white or yellow in colour. An easy-to-care-for plant once established, these blooms are suited to cottage gardens or for their own potted displays. Marigolds are often used as companion plants because of their ability to attract and ‘trap’ pest species in the garden. However, I’d recommend growing these plants next to paths or doorways so you can enjoy their fragrant flowers and foliage during their flowering season. 18) Christmas Rose BOTANICAL NAME: Helleborus niger HARDINESS RATING: H7 PLANT TYPE: perennial FLOWERS: pink and white FLOWERING SEASON(S): winter / spring A seasonal classic to conclude these June-planting flowers, the Christmas rose is a delightful, fully hardy perennial that can be planted in early summer for flowers in the following winter. Producing gorgeous bowl-shaped flowers with white petals tinged in pink, Helleborus niger needs to be grown in part shade in a sheltered location. Try growing this plant underneath large shrubs or in flower borders with other shade-loving perennials.
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Growing Mustard Leaves From Seed: How To Choose A Variety And Sow Seeds Correctly
IN THIS GUIDE Choosing A Mustard Variety When To Sow Mustard How To Sow Mustard References Mustard leaves make a great addition to a salad and can also be used like spinach in a range of cooked recipes. Growing mustard leaves from seed is actually quite simple. In this guide, we share everything you need to know about sowing this herb in your own garden. Choosing A Mustard Variety Mustard is a member of the Brassica plant family and is related to common members of the cabbage family.1 There are many different varieties of mustard – some are grown for their leaves, others for their seed. Of the varieties grown for their leaves, there are many different cultivars that can look very different from one another and can be used raw or cooked in a range of recipes. Some are mild tasting and quite sweet, whilst others are fiercely peppery and spicy. When choosing a cultivar, make sure that you select one that suits your own particular tastes and consider how you wish to use the mustard that you grow. “White mustard, Sinapis alba, has more slender leaves than brown mustard, Brassica juncea,” shares Master Horticulturist Peter Lickorish. “Many of the popular mustard leaf varieties are cultivars of the latter.” When To Sow Mustard When you sow mustard leaves will depend on which of the above options you are considering. For summer salads, you can sow mustard leaves in early spring indoors, to plant out after the last frost date in your area. Or, you can direct sow mustard leaves in the garden where they are to grow in late spring or early summer. You should stagger your plantings and sow a batch of mustard leaf seeds every 3 weeks or so, as this way you ensure that you have mustard leaves to harvest throughout the growing season. However, those sown in the run-up to midsummer may be prone to bolting and going to seed quickly, so, usually, it is best to stop sowing during this time. “The logic is that harvest follows sowing by around 7 weeks, so plants sown in late June could be bolting in July, around the time you would be looking to harvest,” says Peter. You can then sow again from July, August or early September to get another harvest of mustard leaves before the cold weather arrives in autumn, and, if you sow in a polytunnel, mustard leaves may often overwinter and give you some leaves throughout winter and into early spring. Mustard sown outside in August, September or early October will die back over the winter months in most of the UK, but this can be beneficial where mustard is used as a green manure or winter cover crop. The frosted remains will protect the soil below. Sow mustard seeds indoors at any time and you can eat the young shoots as micro-greens. How To Sow Mustard Sow seeds around 1cm deep in pots or seed trays indoors. The easiest way is to fill a seed tray and firm the compost down, before loosely sprinkling the seeds. Covering with an additional layer of compost, back to near the top of the seed tray, will give around 1cm depth. Alternatively, sow in drills of approximately this depth in a garden bed or a raised bed if direct sowing. Water the seeds well and wait for germination to take place. This typically won’t take long at all and in summer they will often germinate after just a few days. “The speed of mustard seed germination is so quick that, if we need seedlings for students to handle at short notice for an assessment, mustard is our go-to plant,” explains Peter.” I would recommend sowing a quick crop of mustard between harvesting summer vegetable crops and sowing over-wintering veg. “You can sow thickly, and harvest some as leaves in late summer, before digging the rest in as green manure. That way, you replenish some lost nutrients between crops.” When plants reach a reasonable size, you may like to thin some varieties to create a spacing of 15-20cm apart. References 1. Petruzzello, M. (2023, March 3). List of plants in the family Brassicaceae. Encyclopedia Britannica. https://www.britannica.com/topic/list-of-plants-in-the-family-Brassicaceae-2004620
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Grow Your Own Salad Leaves With This Foolproof 5 Step Process From Emily Cupit
IN THIS GUIDE When To Sow Varieties To Sow 1) Prepare The Growing Area 2) Sow Seeds 3) Wait For Germination 4) Thin Out Seedlings 5) Harvest Your Leaves Being able to eat freshly grown salad that you have grown yourself at home is a wonderful thing. Even if you have never grown any of your own food before, you should find this a relatively easy process and you might be able to harvest fresh leaves in as little as a month or so. “Growing your own green goodies from seed is so fun and rewarding,” shares Joe Harrison, Garden Blogger & Horticulturist. “The excitement (and sometimes relief!), you feel when the first signs of life appear never leaves you, no matter how many seeds you sow over the years.” To grow your own salad leaves from seed: Prepare seed trays or small pots filled with a peat-free multipurpose compost or homemade equivalent. Scatter the salad leaf seeds and cover them with soil. Water in the seeds and wait for germination to take place. Prick out the salad leaf seedlings or thin them out. Harvest your salad leaves. Read on to learn more about each of these steps. Difficulty Easy Equipment Required Seeds, seed trays or pots, watering can, gardening scissors When To Sow All year (indoors) or March to September (outdoors) When To Sow For outdoor cultivation, salad leaves can be sown any time between March and September, but if you provide the right care, you could be sowing and growing salad leaves indoors or under cover all year round. Varieties To Sow There are a wide variety of plants that can be grown to provide leaves for salads, including some perennial plants and even some trees! Here are some of the most commonly grown options to use as salad leaves to consider: Lettuce Cabbage family plants Rocket Chard Baby leaf spinach Chicory Lamb’s lettuce Cress Sorrel 1) Prepare The Growing Area Prepare seed trays or small pots and fill them with peat-free multipurpose compost or a homemade equivalent if you are growing salad leaves in containers. Consolidate this well to prevent it sinking later. Alternatively, consider sowing seeds in spring or summer where they are to grow in the ground to fill gaps in your vegetable garden or to serve as companion crops. 2) Sow Seeds Scatter the seeds thinly over the growing medium or soil and then cover them with a thin layer of compost, approximately 1cm deep. A sieve or riddle is useful for making sure only fine material covers the seed. “I find that for most salad crops, the simplest and most productive way of growing is to treat them as cut-and-come-again crops,” shares Master Horticulturist Peter Lickorish. “This way, seeds can be sown fairly densely, and leaves harvested sporadically as needed. “If a seed packet contains 100 seeds, I would let that cover a 1.5m² to give good spacing, as a guide.” 3) Wait For Germination Make sure that the growing medium or soil is moist, but take care not to overwater, making sure that there is adequate drainage. Sow outdoors in full sun, or, when sowing indoors, place the seeds in a light, bright location. Seeds should germinate relatively quickly. “With the right growing conditions, the average amount of time a gardener will have to wait to see signs of life is around 7-14 days,” Joe says. “However, this can vary depending on the vegetable variety which has been grown and germination can be much quicker or much longer.” 4) Thin Out Seedlings If the seedlings seem crowded, you can thin them out if you wish. You can also prick out some options to grow them into fuller and larger plants, but when growing for salad leaves, you typically don’t need to do so. 5) Harvest Your Leaves Once the plants are around 10cm tall, you can use a pair of scissors to cut them all off and use the leaves in a salad. This stage can be reached in as little as 4-6 weeks, depending on which types you have chosen and where they are grown. New leaves will grow to replace those you have taken in a couple of weeks and you should get 3-4 batches of leaves from just one sowing. “My best advice is to just go for it – the worst that can happen is your seeds don’t germinate,” says Joe. “The best that can happen is you get rewarded with lots and lots of tiny greens which you can nurture and enjoy all season.”
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