Growing
'Hellebore Tends To Thrive In Dappled Shade' - Here's How To Best Care For Yours
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Planting Hellebore Care Habitat & Growing Conditions Common Problems References Hellebore plants are very popular in the UK and they can be found in countless gardens across the country. Hellebore is the name given to a species of perennial flowering plants. There are 15 accepted species which fall under the Hellebore umbrella – each of which with its own unique appearance and care requirements.1 Overview Botanical Name Helleborus Common Name(s) Christmas Rose, Lenten Rose Plant Type Perennial Flower Native Area Europe and Asia Hardiness Rating H7 Foliage Herbaceous or semi-evergreen Flowers Bowl-shaped flowers When To Sow April, May Flowering Months January, February, March, December When To Prune January, February, March The various plants that encompass the hellebore genus were first found throughout Asia and Europe.2 Although hellebore plants are similar in their appearance to roses, and in fact many are referred to using that term, they are not related to the rose family at all. ‘Christmas Rose’ Hellebore Hellebore plants have five sepals, which unlike petals, do not fall and will often remain on the plant for several months. The colour of the sepals will depend on the species; some of the colouring you’ll find on the sepals of hellebore plants include dark red, white and pink, yellow, double pink and blue-black. Something that makes hellebore plants attractive to gardeners is their ability to cope well in all conditions, with many species being evergreen and able to withstand frost and other harsh conditions very well. Planting If you want to grow your own hellebore, then the good news is that they’re quite easy to grow. They generally last throughout the year and can withstand most weather conditions, including harsh winters. The first thing you’ll need to decide on is which type of hellebore plant you want to grow. Where To Plant When choosing a position for your plants, ideally you will put them in a spot that gets at least some sunlight during the day. There are certain species of hellebore that will grow in the shade, such as Helleborus foetidus, but generally, you’ll want to ensure they get at least some sunlight during the day. Choosing the right time to plant is another important factor when growing your own hellebore. When To Plant Generally, you’ll want to plant them in either autumn or spring. It’s better to avoid planting them in the summer since they’re less likely to get the water they need to thrive. You’ll also want to consider the condition of the soil where you’re planting them. It should be moist but not waterlogged – if the soil is in poor condition or extremely dry, then you should improve it as best you can before planting your hellebore. If you’re planting multiple hellebore plants then be sure to leave a good amount of space between them. There should be at least 30cm between each one, so they have enough room to grow. Hellebore Care Feeding & Watering Once you’ve planted your hellebore, you’ll need to make sure they’re properly watered and fed. Any newly planted hellebore will need regular watering throughout their first season, from spring to summer. Even plants that are well-established will need to be watered during dry spells. Providing you plant your hellebore in good conditions, it shouldn’t be necessary in most cases to feed them. If you notice that they’re not growing well then you can use fertiliser, but often poor growth is due to the soil either being too dry or overly saturated so be sure to check if this is the problem first. Propagation There are a couple of ways to propagate hellebore plants – the first is by division. To accomplish this, you should carefully dig the plants up, keeping the roots in-tact, and then splitting the clump so that each section has at least one shoot. You can then plant the divisions, making sure to water them well after planting until they’re properly established. It will take a good while (up to 2 years) for plants that are propagated this way to flower properly but the results are worth it. The other method for propagating hellebore is using seeds. To do this you should collect the seeds from the pods once they start opening and then sow them, preferably during the summer. Habitat & Growing Conditions Many people mistakenly believe that hellebore in the wild grow in the woodland and in the shade exclusively, however, this is not the case. Hellebore can thrive in a wide variety of settings, from mountains to meadows. They are extremely hardy and can survive most weather conditions very well. In many of the places they can be found growing in the wild, hellebore will only get partial shade and can experience weeks or sometimes even months without water. “Although hellebores can be grown in sunny spots (except Helleborus foetidus), they tend to thrive in dappled shade as they dislike being either too wet or too dry,” explains Horticultural Consultant Colin Skelly. During this period, they can go dormant, yet they will still flourish again once there’s been a downpour. Growing Conditions When grown in the garden, hellebore thrives in deep soil that’s able to retain moisture without getting waterlogged due to heavy rain in the autumn and winter. Drainage is often an issue with hellebore and ideally, when planted in the garden, it would be in soil that’s mixed with sand to allow for better drainage. It’s a good idea to add mulch to the soil where any hellebore is planted – an organic leaf mulch would work best. If you want hellebore plants to flower their best, then it’s recommended that you plant them in a spot where they are fully exposed to the sun during winter and early spring. Some shade in the summer would be best but hellebore is still able to survive, even if they are fully exposed to the sun. If they don’t get enough water during this time, they’ll simply go dormant. It’s important to bear in mind that overwatering can easily kill hellebore and is much worse for them than being exposed to too much sunlight. If you’re going to feed hellebore, then it’s best to do it in late winter and use just a small amount of fertiliser. You can cut off the leaves in the winter if you want, but it’s not necessary since they will be shed during the springtime. It is a good idea to remove leaves if you notice any fungal spores on them, however. Common Problems Unfortunately, hellebore plants are prone to certain diseases, particularly if they’re not looked after properly. Leaf Spot One such disease is known as hellebore leaf spot. This is a type of fungal disease that affects the leaves and the stem, leaving reddish-brown marks. The best way to prevent the spread of leaf spot is to immediately remove any leaves that have been affected. Another good way to prevent leaf spot is to cut off any foliage at the end of the season – this stops it from spreading throughout the winter. Black Death Another common disease that hellebore suffers from is known as hellebore black death and is as serious as it sounds. There is no cure for this so if you have any plants that develop symptoms, you should dig them up immediately and destroy them. Grey Mould Grey mould is another common disease for hellebore plants. It causes the tissue to decay and a fuzzy mould to grow over the parts of the plant where the fungus is present. Hellebore plants are most prone to developing grey mould if they have an open wound or if they’re in less than optimal conditions. Humidity does play a role in the fungus developing but it can affect hellebore plants at any time of the year, including winter. Leaf Miner Hellebore isn’t just prone to diseases that are naturally occurring – it can also be targeted by insects. Phytomyza hellebore, or hellebore leaf miner as it’s also known, is a very small fly that infests certain species of hellebore plants. Aphids Another type of insect that attacks hellebore plants is known as hellebore aphid. This small insect will coat hellebore plants in a layer of honeydew that will cause the leaves and flowers to become mouldy. What makes hellebore aphids particularly harmful to hellebore plants is that they attack every part of them, including the stem, leaves and the inside of the flowers. Fighting Pests & Diseases In dealing with insects that are harmful to hellebore, you can either use insecticides or in the case of hellebore aphids, remove them by hand. It’s always important to tackle the problem of diseases and insects early on when you first notice symptoms – doing so will enable you to prevent the problem from spreading and allow your plants to flourish. References 1. Helleborus. (n.d.). Kew Royal Botanic Gardens. Retrieved March 16, 2023, from https://powo.science.kew.org/taxon/urn:lsid:ipni.org:names:33158-1 2. Species and distribution – Helleborus. (n.d.). Helleborus Gold Collection. Retrieved March 16, 2023, from https://www.helleborus.de/en/plant-facts/species-and-distribution
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Lily Of The Valley: Make Sure To Introduce This Plant Correctly Before Growing
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Habitat & Growing Conditions How To Grow Lily Of The Valley Plant Care Common Problems References Providing it’s introduced in the right way, pretty Lily of the valley (Convallaria majalis) can make an attractive and fragrant addition to your garden. Sometimes called the ‘flower of fairies’, Lily of the valley is a woodland flowering plant, characterised by its bell-shaped, white pendant blooms of 5–10mm in diameter, which appear in springtime – as well as its bright green, lance-shaped leaves. It also bears fruit – orangey-red berries which grow to approximately 5mm in diameter. Lily of the valley is a beautiful and sweet-smelling flower (the heady, floral scent is a popular choice for perfumes) and shouldn’t cause any problems if handled correctly. Overview Botanical Name Convallaria majalis Common Name(s) Lily of the Valley, Muguet, May Bells, May Lily, Mary’s Tears Plant Type Perennial Flower Native Area Europe and Asia Hardiness Rating H7 Foliage Elliptic to narrowly ovate leaves Flowers Fragrant bell-shaped flowers When To Sow July, August, September Flowering Months June, July There are 3 species of Lily of the valley – majalis, keiskei and montana – originating from Eurasia, Japan and China, and the United States respectively (although the native status of this last one is questionable).1 Despite the name, Lily of the valley is actually a member of the Asparagaceae family – otherwise known as asparagus.2 Lily of the valley consists of two basal leaves with a flowering stalk in the middle, which produces hanging strands of up to 15 flowers each. The flowers are usually white but can also rarely be pink. Lily of the valley grows to a maximum of around 20cm tall. In its natural habitat, Lily of the valley will flower in early spring for 3–4 weeks – although this may begin later during a particularly cold year or climate. The plant is perennial, meaning it lives more than two years, and in cooler climates, the leaves will stay year-round (in hot weather they tend to die off). Other names you may know Lily of the valley as include Muguet, May bells, May lily, Mary’s tears and Our Lady’s tears. Fast Spreading Note that a single Lily of the valley plant will spread quickly if allowed to do so (to the point of invasiveness) by forming underground networks of rhizomes.3 The individual pips then break the surface and grow into leafy shoots in spring, whilst remaining connected to the surrounding shoots underground – creating a colony of duplicate plants. Cloned Lily of the valley plants are sterile and won’t grow berries – multiple unique plants are required to pollinate the plants and produce the seed-filled berries. Habitat & Growing Conditions Lily of the valley is native to the Northern Hemisphere, in particular, Europe and Asia.4 Sunlight It favours a cooler, temperate climate, and environments such as forests and woodland, where the close-knit trees provide it with plenty of shade, whilst still allowing a little sunlight through. This perennial plant will not thrive in year-round hot climates, or in areas with inadequate shade. It will, however, cope fine in the summer of a temperate climate, when its leaves naturally wilt and die off after the spring flowering period. Preferred Soil The soil preference of Lily of the valley is a moist, sandy soil with a slightly alkaline pH. It also likes a lot of space, with room to expand outwards whilst growing. This is a very fast-spreading plant; the underground network of rhizomes will keep expanding and shooting new roots until it meets with some kind of barrier. For this reason, you often see large blankets of Lily of the valley covering forest floors and surrounding the bases of trees in woodland. As they need moist soil with good drainage, the best position for Lily of the valley is halfway down a slope or hillside, where they will benefit from lots of water run-off, whilst not sitting in boggy ground or stagnant water. How To Grow Lily Of The Valley These are the steps I followed to successfully grow Lily of the valley in my garden: Choose a shady spot in your garden, ideally under some trees, with good drainage. Mark out the area you want the plant to grow in and cordon it off with garden edging to prevent it from spreading out of control. Make sure to choose a place with plenty of room for the plant to grow into. You can also grow in containers should you wish to grow this plant without allowing it to spread. Prepare the soil with a layer of rich, well-fertilised soil. Plant the pips in late autumn, around November, ready for the winter dormancy period which will precede a spring flowering. Make sure to use gloves to prevent irritation. If successful you should see the first shoots of your plant begin to emerge in early spring. Plant Care Aspect Lily of the valley thrives best in areas with temperate climates and cool winters. Being a perennial plant, it’s hardy and adaptable, which makes it easy to care for – and given that the UK is one of its native habitats, it’s well-suited to life outside in your garden. To help it grow even more successfully, try to choose a shady spot to plant it, such as by a fence or under some trees, to replicate its natural environment. Ideally, it should get a few hours of natural light in the early morning, before spending the rest of the day in the shade. If you plant it in a place with too much sun, it probably won’t flower. During summer, when the temperature gets too hot, your Lily of the valley will start to wilt and the leaves will go crispy. This is a normal part of your plant’s lifecycle – when this happens, prune the crispy leaves, leaving the healthy green ones. Watering & Feeding Make sure to monitor the moisture levels in the soil and keep it well-watered in the event of a dry spell (avoiding the leaves to prevent fungus). You will probably need to water the soil well during sunny periods and summer. In terms of feeding, it doesn’t require much – aim to add a 2-inch layer of organic compost annually. Common Problems Lily of the valley is naturally resistant to most pests, but there are some species which are able (and very willing) to eat the plant, including slugs, leaf beetles and some moth and butterfly larvae. Keep an eye out for bugs such as these munching on your plant. Fungus Lily of the valley can be vulnerable to fungus, due to its preference for moist environments. Look out for yellowing on the leaves, brown spots and discoloured veins. To try to prevent this, make sure that when you water the soil, you don’t get any additional water on the leaves, and keep a decent fungicide handy, just in case. Controlling Spreading Make sure your Lily of the valley has enough space to grow – as much as you want it to. As mentioned above, I do find that healthy Lily of the valley can spread very quickly, and you will need to set boundaries if you want to restrict its growing area. “The characteristic spread of Lily of the Valley makes it ideal if you want it to colonise an area, but problematic if you either don’t want it to spread into adjacent areas or you want it to stay in one area,” shares Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly. “This makes containing it with a barrier or constant division and removal a must. “I tend to plant it in borders that are naturally contained by hard barriers where it tends to migrate the edges. “Every year I just divide and replant to redistribute it back to its starting place.” You can do this with garden edging or root barriers, available from garden centres. I have had a lot of success using root barriers for rhizomatous plants like bamboo and Convallaria majalis. If you prefer, you can also grow Lily of the valley in a large container or shallow pot, filled with a good quality potting mix and organic fertiliser, and placed on feet to ensure sufficient drainage. Growing it in this way will allow you to easily control the spread of the plant, as well as the amount of water in the soil. You should still place the pot outside, to allow the plant to benefit from the cool air and seasonal changes of its natural habitat. References 1. Convallaria majalis (European lily-of-the-valley). (n.d.). Native Plant Trust: Go Botany. Retrieved March 21, 2023, from https://gobotany.nativeplanttrust.org/species/convallaria/majalis/ 2. Convallaria majalis. (n.d.). North Carolina Extension Gardener Plant Toolbox. Retrieved March 21, 2023, from https://plants.ces.ncsu.edu/plants/convallaria-majalis/ 3. lily of the valley: Convallaria majalis (Liliales: Liliaceae). (n.d.). Invasive Plant Atlas of the United States. Retrieved March 21, 2023, from https://www.invasiveplantatlas.org/subject.html?sub=5375 4. Convallaria majalis. (n.d.-b). Missouri Botanical Garden. Retrieved March 21, 2023, from https://www.missouribotanicalgarden.org/PlantFinder/PlantFinderDetails.aspx?kempercode=c250
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Delphinium Expert Graham Austin On The Important Considerations For Growing
IN THIS GUIDE Overview How To Grow Delphinium Delphinium Care Common Problems Propagation References Delphinium, often called Larkspur, is a perennial plant bearing clusters of richly-hued flowers. It is native to the Northern Hemisphere and is found in many settings, ranging from hilly meadows to well-tended flower beds. This beautiful ornamental flower is not only fairly easy to grow, it brings both eye-catching colour and uncommon grace to a garden. In crafting this guide we interviewed delphinium expert Graham Austin, the Owner of Home Farm Plants specialist nursery. “Whilst training at a nursery, I was given the opportunity to check the delphiniums following their winter dormancy” explains Graham. “I liked how their tall spikes stood out from other perennials and my interest grew from there”. Overview Botanical Name Delphinium Common Name(s) Larkspur Plant Type Perennial Flower / Annual Flower Native Area China Hardiness Rating H5 Foliage Palmately lobed basal leaves Flowers Showy flowers in spikes, racemes or panicles When To Sow March, April Flowering Months June, July, August, September When To Prune September, October The Delphinium plant comprises a stem or ‘spike’ varying in length from about ten centimetres to over two metres, depending on the species. It has palmate leaves with well-defined lobes that are often pointed. Even here one gets variety: depending on the species each leaf has from three to seven lobes. Crowning the plant is a raceme of brilliantly-coloured flowers, closely clustered. In nature, the colours range from light blue to deep purple, making the Delphinium one of the few flowers to occur naturally in true tones of blue. Less common species and hybrids and cultivars come in many other colours including white, yellows and reds. In the vast majority of species, the flower, as we see it, comprises not only of the petals proper but also the (coloured) sepals. Five sepals – usually mistaken for petals – fan out within which four much smaller petals are set. The top sepal projects a rearward spur as if to defend the pretty flower. In many varieties, right in the centre of this delicate assembly is a decorative eye or ‘bee’ – a floral ‘beauty spot’. The distinctively-shaped bud reputedly gave the plant its name: the bud reminds one of a dolphin’s head and the top petal’s trailing spur resembles a fish’s body, leading the Hellenes to christen the plant after the Greek word for dolphin – delphíni.1 Stately and upright but swaying or even willowy in a breeze, and with a gamut of brilliant reds, purples, or blues colouring the floral crown, Delphiniums make the ideal backdrop to a garden. In fact, this beautiful plant can be made the centrepiece of a garden. How To Grow Delphinium Soil Requirements I would argue that the best type of soil for Delphinium is deep, loamy, and limey soil tending to the alkaline, though many types will grow perfectly well in neutral or acidic soils too. Adding compost to even good soil will improve results by effecting richer, more intense, blooms. If the soil’s pH is on the low side, some lime may be added to it. Most critically, the soil must have very good drainage as undrained or even poorly-drained soil will cause root rot. Aspect The plant should get about seven hours of exposure to the sun. Originally a native of hilly regions and climes, the Delphinium does best in relatively open spaces that are not very close to trees or solid man-made structures. Given its flowering height, I find that blustery sites are unsuitable for Delphiniums; however, gentle breezes that cause it to sway not only pose any danger, but they will also enhance the beauty of this ornamental plant. Delphinium thrives in cool and moist climates that drop to near freezing in the winter. Transplanting When transplanting Delphiniums, the root-ball should be just underneath the soil level. Pack the plant tightly into the soil to ensure that no air-pockets exist around the roots, and water it in generously. Delphinium plants should be spaced two or more feet apart. Delphinium Care Delphinium’s many species and types and the various zones they can be grown in make for a quite combination of factors; thus, there is no ‘one size fits all’ type of prescription. Any care and growing tips recommendations should be taken as guidelines and the gardener should be encouraged to experiment within reasonable bounds. For example, given the Delphinium type and the conditions (soil and zone), nutrients like wood ash or bone meal in varying quantities can be mixed into the soil in spring. Feeding & Watering Delphinium plants should be watered moderately three to four times per week. Watering should be at soil level – avoid watering from above the plant to minimise the possibility of powdery mildew or even stem rot or crown rot from setting in. Make sure that the water drains well as Delphiniums have a very low tolerance for waterlogged soil. About once a month I sprinkle some 10-10-10 or all-purpose fertiliser around the stalk but do not push it into the soil. “Delphiniums are heavy feeders, so give them general feed in the spring and just before flowering”, advises Graham. “After pruning, give them another feed with general fertiliser to encourage a second autumn flowering”. For English Delphinium varieties, use 12-12-12 fertiliser. Mulching Periodically mulch the plant during the flowering season by spreading a small amount of the plant’s own mulch at the base of each plant. After autumn comes around and the flowers die, apply several inches of a heavier mulch at the roots. At the end of winter, remember to clean out the mulch shortly before you expect spring frost otherwise there is a risk of stem rot. Pruning Trimming and thinning are very important for a Delphinium plant’s beauty and well-being. After the plant’s first flowering of the season and just before summer, Graham Austin recommends that you trim most or all of the flower stalks – but not the rest of the crown – in between the lower-most flower and ground level. This gardener’s trick will probably cause the plant to bloom once again in late summer or early autumn. Cut spent flower spikes (deadhead them) down nearly to the ground or to the level of any emerging side shoots. Annual thinning is of utmost importance as uncontrolled blooming may well cause the plant, especially cultivars and hybrids, to self-destruct. Thin the shoots when they are four inches tall; leave two spikes for a one-year plant, three for a two-year plant, and so forth. You can have five to seven spikes on mature plants and over 20 on eight-plus-year plants. As for the plant’s stalks, every three or four years these can be dug up, divided into separate clumps and re-planted. After the plant’s first frost, cut the stems down to ground level. Some gardeners do so every year and, depending on the zone, climate, and type of Delphinium, this is good practice. Common Problems While some Delphinium varieties attract aphids, mites and leaf miners, the most common and main threat to this plant is from snails and slugs. According to Graham: “Slugs are the main problem people seem to have. We recommend using horticultural grit in and around the plant (as the slugs don’t like the texture when crawling on it) and thinning the plant by taking out the weaker stems and only leaving the strongest. “This lets the air circulate through the plant keeping it drier, therefore less slugs. As another solution, “nematodes can also be used and work well from April onwards, once the weather is slightly warmer.” “Nematodes species used to control slugs can be very effective when stored and applied correctly, and in my opinion, are the only effective control in borders, if you exclude slug pellets,” says Dan Ori, Master Horticulturist. In the growing season, you can sprinkle red cayenne pepper on fresh young growth. Propagation You can multiply your Delphinium plants (or oblige your neighbours!) by selectively cutting stalks when they are shoots so as to plant and root them. Buying potted young cuttings, as opposed to seeding Delphiniums, gives you a head start in growing them without the trouble associated with germinating them from seed. Delphiniums can be grown from seeds. However, unlike many plants, Delphinium seeds start losing viability quite soon, from one to two years. Seeds germinate best when planted in early spring or autumn, though they can be planted year-round. Do not plant seeds of cultivars and most hybrids directly into a flower bed but plant them in pots or flats indoors. On the other hand, you could also look to plant the seeds of naturally-occurring Delphiniums directly into a prepared flower bed. References 1. The Stories Behind 10 Flower Names. (2022, April 13). Merriam Webster. Retrieved March 15, 2023, from https://www.merriam-webster.com/words-at-play/10-flower-names-with-interesting-stories-behind-them
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Growing Venus Fly Trap: Keep Your Plants Happy With These Secrets From Carnivorous Pros
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Habitat & Growing Conditions How To Grow A Venus Fly Trap Plant Care Repotting Guidelines Leaves Turning Black References There are few plants more curious and captivating than the Venus Fly Trap; a carnivorous plant that snares flies and other small insects in its jaws, before devouring them. The Venus Fly Trap (Dionaea muscipula) attracts flies and crawling insects (such as spiders and beetles) using colour and sweet nectar in its traps.1 When the fly touches the plant’s sensitive hairs, it triggers the jaws to snap shut, ensnaring the fly and beginning the process of dissolving it into tasty, protein-packed plant food. For this guide, we interviewed Kenny Coogan from the International Carnivorous Plant Society. “Venus Fly Traps are intriguing and attractive. They can do great on windowsills with artificial light and others make a fine garden or patio plant” says Kenny. Kenny Coogan “Carnivorous plants use modified leaves to trap their prey. Regardless of your aesthetics, there is a carnivorous plant for you!” Overview Botanical Name Dionaea muscipula Common Name(s) Venus Fly Trap Plant Type Carnivorous Native Area South-Eastern United States Hardiness Rating H3 Foliage Leaves ending in traps Flowers Flowers in summer (though not usually desired) When To Re-Pot February, March Flowering Months June, July, August When To Prune June (remove flowers), July, August With their bright green colour and red-mouthed traps, these fascinating plants make a fun addition to any household, and can hold particular appeal to kids (and big kids alike!). Not only that, but they can serve a practical (though somewhat limited) purpose too: helping to control the number of flies and bugs in your home. “I love Venus fly traps as they are really happy in a sunny position and need watering, but other than that, they are not the complex beings that we see them as,” Michael Perry, Mr Plant Geek, shares. “They are also hardy outside and are really nice for a pond outdoors, which is something that people often don’t consider.” Growing a Venus Fly Trap is an all-round rewarding experience – and the great news is, it’s not difficult; these plants are hardy and can thrive in the UK’s seasonal climate. Habitat & Growing Conditions The Venus Fly Trap’s natural habitat is limited to small areas of North and South Carolina in the USA, where it thrives in boggy conditions along the coastline.2 Their native sandy soil is moist and acidic, but not nutrient-dense – which is why they get most of their nutrients from ingesting bugs instead. The temperature in Carolina fluctuates between 1-32°C from winter to summer, and therefore Venus Fly Traps are perfectly at home in the UK’s climate.3 You will just need to protect your Venus Fly Trap from the harsher elements, either using a greenhouse, conservatory or terrarium. Winter in the Carolinas runs from November to February, and during this time, the Venus Fly Trap enters a dormancy period (think of it like hibernation). The plant’s leaves turn brown/black and it will die back (but don’t worry, it will recover). You need to make sure to recreate this cold period for your plant – if you’re growing it in a greenhouse, it can stay where it is for British winter, but if it’s on a window sill in a heated home, you will need to move it somewhere cooler, such as a garage. Bear in mind it will still require sunlight, and you should make sure the temperature doesn’t regularly drop below freezing. “I grow carnivorous plants, including a Venus fly trap, in pots outside using a peat-free ericaceous compost that is very moisture retentive,” says Colin Skelly, a Master Horticulturist. “I found that they didn’t thrive indoors, but outdoors they are perfectly happy in the summer months. I put them into a greenhouse in winter and this is enough to allow them to enter dormancy but avoid frost damage.” How To Grow A Venus Fly Trap You can buy seeds or fully grown Venus Fly Traps from garden centres, flower shows or carnivorous plant specialists, as well as online suppliers. Fully grown Venus Fly Traps will usually be sold during peak season (mid-spring to mid-autumn), as this is when the plants look their best. There are several variants of Venus Fly Trap available; if you’re just starting out, we recommend choosing one of the hardier varieties, such as the King Henry or Dingley Giant. “The typical Venus flytrap has green on the outside of the lobes and pink to red on the inside,” says Kenny. “Some breeders have chosen plants with more red or even purple on the outside, whilst others have selected traps that look like they have melted due to radiation. Some are extra toothy; others are extra-large. “Others have petioles that resemble reptile skin. Some have fuzzy pom-poms instead of traps! Once you get comfortable growing the typical flytrap, you will want to start adding other cultivars to your collection.” Choose a plant which looks vibrant in colour and has no (or very few) dead leaves, and make sure it’s potted in suitable soil. If you’re planning to grow multiple carnivorous plants, consider joining the UK Carnivorous Plant Society or the International Carnivorous Plant Society. Growing From Seed If you’re growing your own Venus Fly Trap from scratch, here’s an overview of the equipment you need and the process you should follow: Surface sow the seeds in a 10cm plastic pot which has good drainage and is filled with suitable compost. Place the pot inside a tray or container and use stones to keep the pot secure (and give it a decorative look). Keep the outer pot filled with 1–2cm of pure water, allowing the plant to draw in as much water as it needs. You will need to make use of a grow light and keep the plant indoors. If it’s summertime, you can also leave it outside in direct sunlight. Make sure to choose a bright yet sheltered spot. Once your plant has grown, you can start to feed it a small number of insects (one per week), to give it an added boost of nutrients. Your plant will flower in spring, but unless you want to harvest the seeds, you should prune the flower stalk as soon as you can identify it as such, to avoid draining your Venus Fly Trap of nutrients unnecessarily. Keep an eye out for signs of greenfly, as Dionaea are unable to protect themselves from these pests and will require your intervention. Plant Care Sunlight Venus Fly Trap needs direct sunlight in order to grow their strong, fly-imprisoning leaves. They will typically flourish in a terrarium under a powerful fluorescent grow light (providing you respect their winter dormancy period), which is what Kenny recommends: “Venus flytraps do not always do well on a windowsill – even if it is sunny. “With today’s grow light technology it is possible (and easy) to grow carnivorous inside with the addition of artificial light.” They ideally need 12 hours of direct sunlight a day to grow to their full potential – although they can survive on less. Potting Medium You can pot your Venus Fly Trap with carnivorous plant compost from specialist suppliers or garden centres, or you can make your own by combining sphagnum peat moss with perlite or horticultural sand (ratio 2:1). Avoid conventional potting compost and fertilisers, as the concentration of minerals can be harmful to your Venus plant, which naturally grows in nutrient-poor soil. Watering Venus plants need pure water to grow properly – they are used to acidic environments and the alkaline minerals found in tap or bottled water can make growing conditions difficult for them. Kenny explains: “Carnivorous plants do not do well with salts, minerals, and chlorine. Most city and well water are above their tolerance threshold. You can use rainwater, distilled water, or reverse osmosis.” The easiest solution is to collect rainwater (there’s generally plenty of that going spare in the UK!) or use a reverse osmosis system as mentioned. “Another aspect of water is Venus flytraps like to be kept moist to wet,” says Kenny. “If you grow these plants, using a water tray method is recommended. This involves sitting pots that have drainage holes in a saucer or tray that holds water. “When the tray empties, but before the pots and substrate go dry, refill the tray.” Aim to keep the soil wet in summer and just damp in winter – but never let it dry out. Feeding Insects Only once you’ve taken care of all your Venus Fly Trap’s basic needs, can you start to think about feeding it insects, if you think it needs it. Basic care dictates you should aim to feed a healthy, indoor plant (outdoor plants will catch their own food) one small insect, once a week; making sure to feed a different trap each time. You can feed it live or (freshly) dead flies, or buy dried mealworms or crickets for this purpose. Aim for a size of around one-third that of the trap, and make sure not to feed it anything other than bugs. See our full guide to feeding Venus Fly Traps for more information. Bear in mind that these plants can go for many months without eating and be fine (up to 6-8 months says Kenny). It’s also important to remember that, however tempting it may be, you should not tease a Venus Fly Trap by tickling its hairs to trigger the closing of its traps. Although this will work, it’s not good for the plant, as it uses a lot of energy – and it won’t have caught anything to replenish any spent nutrients. Do this too much, and your plant will eventually die. Repotting Guidelines If you buy a Venus Fly Trap from a garden centre or similar, it will come potted in a suitable compost, and shouldn’t need to be re-potted that year. However, as your plant grows year-on-year, you may need to relocate it periodically into bigger pots, to give the roots more aeration. Check out our video with Megan Webb on how to repot (and potentially divide your existing plant) for more information: If your Dionaea muscipula has outgrown its current pot, aim to complete the repotting process around the end of February/beginning of March, just after the winter dormancy period. Make sure to use specialised carnivorous plant compost in the new, larger pot. Leaves Turning Black If the leaves of your Venus Plant are slowly turning black during winter, don’t panic. Winter Dormancy “Many carnivorous plants that people grow, including Venus flytraps, go through dormant periods,” explains Kenny. “I fear that many people witness this and throw out completely healthy plants thinking that they have died! With proper care, they should come back in the spring.” This is a perfectly normal part of the winter dormancy period, as your plant dies back to its rhizome. Traps and leaves will die, and you should simply prune off the dead or dying leaves at the base once they begin to brown. It’s important to remove these black leaves as soon as possible, to prevent mould, which can spread to the rest of the plant. You should move your plant to a cooler location, and significantly reduce watering whilst your plant is going through this winter dormancy process. Water the compost directly, rather than filling up the tray, and make sure to keep it damp, but not saturated. Other than that, leave your plant to do its thing, and try not to worry – if you’ve taken care of it correctly, it should be fine. Growing Conditions If your plant’s leaves are turning brown at other times of the year, this could be a sign that it is unhealthy or dying due to insufficient growing conditions. Trim the dead leaves, and make sure your plant has access to plenty of water and direct sunlight. References 1. Brewer, G. (2020, March 27). Venus flytrap: The creepy carnivorous plant. Kew Royal Botanic Gardens. Retrieved March 27, 2023, from https://www.kew.org/read-and-watch/venus-flytrap-creepy-carnivorous-plant 2. CNR Web. (2021, January 6). 5 Things You Didn’t Know About Venus Flytraps. College of Natural Resources News. Retrieved March 27, 2023, from https://cnr.ncsu.edu/news/2021/01/five-things-you-didnt-know-about-venus-flytraps/ 3. Climate and Average Weather Year Round in Charlotte. (n.d.). Retrieved March 27, 2023, from https://weatherspark.com/y/18893/Average-Weather-in-Charlotte-North-Carolina-United-States-Year-Round
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14 Reliable Hedging Plants That Are Popular Throughout The Country
IN THIS GUIDE Hedging Varieties Hedges With Thorns 1) Hawthorn 2) Firethorn 3) Holly Hedges With Flowers 4) Pink Ramanus Rose Hedging 5) English Lavender 6) Star Jasmine Deciduous Or Evergreen? 7) Conifers 8) Portugal Laurel 9) Field Maple 10) Purple Beech Hedging Types For Shade 11) Cherry Laurel 12) Box 13) Viburnum tinus 14) Dogwood References Hedges are extremely popular in the UK and can be seen in countless gardens across the country. They come with many benefits, such as improving security, attracting wildlife and beautifying your property. In this guide, we’ll be looking at the different types of hedges available as well as providing you with hedge care & trimming guidelines and some great hedge ideas for your garden. If you’re worried that you don’t have the expertise to create your own hedge, then don’t be. Thanks to modern techniques and equipment, laying a hedge in your garden is a DIY project that you should be able to accomplish in a very reasonable amount of time, depending on the size of your garden. By adding a hedge, or multiple hedges to your garden you can help to attract wildlife while also creating a uniquely beautiful appearance that’s easy to maintain and will last for years.1 Hedging Varieties The red berries of a Pyracantha plant Although there are certain hedge species that are more popular than others, there are actually a good number of hedge plants that each have their own unique properties. Below we’ll take a look at some of the different types of hedges out there, starting with hedges with thorns. Hedges With Thorns Hedge species that have thorns are very popular since they not only look great, but they also provide added protection to a property. Some of the most popular hedges with thorns are: 1) Hawthorn BOTANICAL NAME: Crataegus monogyna HARDINESS RATING: H7 MAX HEIGHT: 4-6M FLOWERS: WHITE FLOWERS IN SPRING BERRIES: RED BERRIES IN AUTUMN FOLIAGE: DECIDUOUS Hawthorn is a very popular hedging plant native to the UK. In spring it produces white, scented flowers that last through to the autumn when they are replaced by haws and the foliage drops to reveal the thorns. 2) Firethorn BOTANICAL NAME: Pyracantha HARDINESS RATING: H6 MAX HEIGHT: 2.5-4M FLOWERS: WHITE FLOWERS IN SPRING OR SUMMER BERRIES: RED OR ORANGE BERRIES IN AUTUMN FOLIAGE: EVERGREEN Firethorn is another very popular hedging plant. Its prickly branches make it ideal as an intruder deterrent, but it also looks great thanks to the year-round foliage and the mix of red, yellow and orange berries that will help to attract birds to your garden. 3) Holly BOTANICAL NAME: Ilex aquifolium HARDINESS RATING: H6 MAX HEIGHT: 10M+ FLOWERS: WHITE FLOWERS IN SPRING & SUMMER BERRIES: RED BERRIES IN AUTUMN & WINTER FOLIAGE: EVERGREEN Although holly is often associated with Christmas, it makes for an excellent hedging plant throughout the year. Holly is an obvious choice for deterring intruders since its prickly leaves are immediately apparent. That’s not the only thing that makes it an excellent choice of hedge though. Its glossy leaves provide a unique look, it’s attractive to wildlife and you can plant it pretty much anywhere and it will thrive. Hedges With Flowers If you want to add some colour to a hedge, then there are some fantastic hedge species with flowers that enable you to do this. These include – 4) Pink Ramanus Rose Hedging Beautiful rose hips in bloom during autumn BOTANICAL NAME: Rosa rugosa ‘Rubra’ HARDINESS RATING: H7 MAX HEIGHT: 1.5M FLOWERS: PINK FLOWERS IN SUMMER & AUTUMN BERRIES: RED BERRIES IN SUMMER & AUTUMN FOLIAGE: DECIDUOUS During the summer, this thorny hedge plant produces striking rose-coloured flowers that become large rose hips during the autumn, making it a striking plant throughout the year. It grows at a rate of 20-40cm per year and can prosper in most conditions, whether in sun or shade. If you prefer (depending on your colour preference) you can also get white Ramanus rose hedging. 5) English Lavender BOTANICAL NAME: Lavandula angustifolia HARDINESS RATING: H5 MAX HEIGHT: 1M FLOWERS: PURPLE FLOWERS IN SUMMER FOLIAGE: EVERGREEN Lavender is a very popular selling hedge species and is ideal for low hedging and creating pathways. The foliage of lavender is evergreen, and its distinctive purple flowers are most vibrant during the late spring/early summer. 6) Star Jasmine BOTANICAL NAME: Trachelospermum jasminoides HARDINESS RATING: H4 MAX HEIGHT: 6-8M FLOWERS: WHITE FLOWERS IN SUMMER BERRIES: GREEN BERRIES IN AUTUMN FOLIAGE: EVERGREEN Star Jasmine is another very popular plant used for hedging in the UK. It’s extremely versatile and grows year-round making it an ideal choice for a hedging plant. During the summer, it blossoms small star-shaped flowers that have a very distinctive fragrance. It grows very quickly once established. It would be ideal for bordering a lawn or as part of a feature in a garden. Deciduous Or Evergreen? One of the main things you need to decide on when choosing a hedge for your garden is whether you want it to be deciduous or evergreen… As the name would suggest, evergreen hedges grow all year round, which makes them excellent if your primary reason for having them is privacy. Because they grow year-round, evergreen hedges do require more maintenance and you’ll need to trim them at least once a year, ideally twice. Deciduous hedges are also a great choice for hedging but because they lose their leaves during the autumn/winter, they’re not ideal if privacy is your main concern. A big advantage of a deciduous hedge over an evergreen is that they allow wind to filter through much more easily. Anyone who’s lived in the UK for a while knows that high winds are not uncommon during the winter and can cause a lot of damage so having a hedge that can better withstand this is certainly a big bonus. Deciduous hedges also require less pruning and can be renovated more easily if they’re neglected for a while. A couple of great evergreen species for your garden are: 7) Conifers BOTANICAL NAME: VARIOUS HARDINESS RATING: VARIOUS MAX HEIGHT: VARIOUS Conifers are a staple of gardens throughout the UK and come in a variety of sizes and shapes, making them ideal for use in multiple settings. You can get dwarf conifers as potted plants as well as many other species that can be used for hedging, architectural features and ground cover. 8) Portugal Laurel BOTANICAL NAME: Prunus lusitanica HARDINESS RATING: H5 MAX HEIGHT: 10M+ FLOWERS: WHITE FLOWERS IN SUMMER FRUITS: DARK PURPLE FRUITS IN AUTUMN FOLIAGE: EVERGREEN Portugal Laurel is another popular evergreen choice of hedging. It has small white flowers during summer which give way to small fruits in autumn. It also has good foliage colour throughout the year. Great choices for deciduous hedge plants include: 9) Field Maple BOTANICAL NAME: Acer campestre HARDINESS RATING: H6 MAX HEIGHT: 10M+ FLOWERS: GREEN FLOWERS IN SPRING FRUITS: WINGED MAPLE FRUITS IN SUMMER & AUTUMN FOLIAGE: DECIDUOUS A compact and dense hedge species – Field Maple provides excellent coverage when planted close together. It also looks particularly impressive during the autumn as its distinctive leaves turn into beautiful shades of red and yellow. 10) Purple Beech BOTANICAL NAME: Fagus sylvatica f. purpurea HARDINESS RATING: H6 MAX HEIGHT: 10M+ FLOWERS: PURPLE FLOWERS IN SPRING FOLIAGE: DECIDUOUS With its impressive deep purple leaves, Purple Beech is an excellent choice of hedging plant if you want to achieve a distinctive look for your garden. Hedging Types For Shade If you want to plant hedges in a shaded area of your garden, then you might be worried that you’ll be limited for choice. The good news is that this simply isn’t the case – there are many species of hedge plants that thrive in the shade. These include: 11) Cherry Laurel BOTANICAL NAME: Prunus laurocerasus HARDINESS RATING: H5 MAX HEIGHT: 6-8M FLOWERS: WHITE FLOWERS IN SPRING FRUITS: CHERRY RED FRUITS THAT TURN BLACK IN AUTUMN FOLIAGE: EVERGREEN Cherry Laurel is a superb choice of hedging plant for a shaded area. It has striking polished leaves that create excellent coverage and can be planted in either sun or shade – thriving under either condition. 12) Box BOTANICAL NAME: Buxus sempervirens HARDINESS RATING: H6 MAX HEIGHT: 4-8M FLOWERS: YELLOW FLOWERS IN SPRING BERRIES: RED BERRIES IN AUTUMN The box hedge plant is perfect for use in shaded areas and the fact that it’s slow-growing (up to 10cm) per year makes it a low maintenance option while still looking good. “Box is one of my favourite hedges and used to be a reliable hedging and topiary plant in the UK,” says Horticultural Consultant Colin Skelly. “It is still sold widely but is increasingly subject to pest and diseases due to a warming climate and new pests and diseases introduced to the UK. Not least of which is Box blight, which has decimated this hedge in many gardens. “If you are going to plant it, make sure there is good airflow and mulch with wood chips to prevent splash back of fungal spores.” 13) Viburnum tinus BOTANICAL NAME: Viburnum tinus HARDINESS RATING: H4 MAX HEIGHT: 3-4M FLOWERS: CREAMY-WHITE AND PINK FLOWERS IN LATE WINTER BERRIES: RED, BLUE OR BLACK BERRIES FOLLOW FLOWERS If you’re looking for a hedging shrub that does well in the shade, then this is one of the very best. It looks great throughout the year and even sprouts an array of white flowers during winter. It also attracts an array of birds thanks to its coloured berries. 14) Dogwood BOTANICAL NAME: CORNUS HARDINESS RATING: VARIOUS MAX HEIGHT: VARIOUS If you want an unusual look for your garden, then Dogwood hedging is a great choice. Winter stem dogwood has distinctive orange stems that stand out in any setting. The fact that it grows very well in shade makes it ideal for gardens with little sunlight. References 1. Malins, E. (2019, March 18). Hedges alive with wildlife. London Wildlife Trust. Retrieved March 27, 2023, from https://www.wildlondon.org.uk/blog/edwin-malins/hedges-alive-wildlife
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TV Personality Danny Clarke On His Most Loved Trees For Small Gardens
IN THIS GUIDE How Do You Choose A Tree For A Small Garden? What Are The Best Trees For Small Spaces? 1) Japanese Apricot 2) Weeping Purple Willow 3) Cherry Amanogawa 4) Cootamundra Wattle 5) Koehne Mountain Ash 6) Eastern Redbud ‘Forest Pansy’ 7) Paperback Maple 8) Hemsley Snowball 9) Red Windsor Apple 10) Rocky Mountain Juniper ‘Blue Arrow’ 11) Cockspur Coral 12) Flamingo Willow 13) Japanese Maple ‘Elegans’ 14) Redbud ‘Ruby Falls’ 15) Blue Fan Palm 16) Mediterranean Fan Palm 17) Kousa ‘Miss Satomi’ 18) Star Magnolia ‘Jane Platt’ 19) Spindle ‘Red Cascade’ Why Plant A Tree In A Small Garden? Key Considerations If you’re looking for a tree to plant in a small garden, you probably want something that will stay small throughout its whole lifespan. Because all tree saplings start small – the problem starts when they begin to get too big, and need to be cut down or relocated to prevent damage to paths or even property. “Do not clutter small space with small items,” says Garden Designer Manoj Maldé. “Be selective and go big with pots and plants.” What’s more impressive than a tree? This guide explores the best trees for small gardens: ones that can be planted near a house, and that won’t wreak havoc when they hit full size. How Do You Choose A Tree For A Small Garden? There are a few key features to look for when deciding on a tree for an especially small garden. You’ll want something that’s easy to grow, that stays small, and, most importantly, that is safe to plant near a house. “As with anything, there are different ways of finding a tree for a small space,” shares Horticulturist Ben Raskin. “You can choose the trees that you then prune to shape (apples or pears are a classic for this) or coppice (like hazel or willow) or choose large shrubs or small trees.” It’s worth bearing in mind the eventual shape of the tree. Columnar trees and fastigiate trees are good for small spaces: they are both narrow varieties with height-to-width ratios of about 5-to-1 and 10-to-1 respectively. You’ll probably be interested in how the tree will look, especially considering you’re working with a space that may not be able to fit any others. Choosing one with bright colours or an interesting shape can be a great way to maximise the aesthetic contribution it brings to your space. Luckily nature paints a very pretty palette, and the range of trees suitable for small gardens includes many that are exceptionally colourful and beautiful. What Are The Best Trees For Small Spaces? We spoke to TV Personality and Professional Garden Designer Danny Clarke about his favourite trees for small spaces. “Some trees I would recommend for a small garden are Acers, Silver Birches, or Prunus serrula. “Silver birches and P. serrula have interest even when they haven’t got their leaves. “The silver birch has a lovely white bark and the P. serrula has a peeling bark, so you get interest and excitement all year round from those.” Here are nineteen other small flowering trees suitable for small spaces, each of which ticks all of the boxes outlined above. All trees in this list – with the exception of the cherry Amanogawa – have received the Award of Garden Merit by the RHS, which recognises the ability of a plant to thrive in the growing conditions typical to the UK. That means any tree in this list is acknowledged as being decorative, easy to grow, and resistant to disease. They are sorted by likely maximum size, with the smallest at the top. 1) Japanese Apricot BOTANICAL NAME: Prunus mume HARDINESS RATING: H5 PREFERRED ASPECT: SHELTERED; FULL SUN or partial shade MAX HEIGHT: 9M MAX WIDTH: 2.5M This tree – also called ‘beni-chidori’, an English transcription of its Japanese name – is a popular choice for gardeners thanks to its bold pink flower blossom in spring. It provides light shade making it ideal for planting under and smells lovely while blooming. This tree is great for pollinators, meaning it will attract bees, butterflies, and more to your garden. Over 10-20 years it will grow to a maximum size of 9m by 2.5m. 2) Weeping Purple Willow BOTANICAL NAME: Salix purpurea ‘Pendula’ HARDINESS RATING: H6 PREFERRED ASPECT: FULL SUN MAX HEIGHT: 4M MAX WIDTH: 2.5M “A weeping willow is way too big for my garden!” you may be thinking, but it’s OK: this variety doesn’t grow anywhere near as big as its popular counterpart. Over a period of 10-20 years, you can expect the tree to reach a height of 2.5-4m with a spread of 1.5-2.5m. The droopy canopy offers a nice difference to the more traditional tree foliage, but expect to pick catkins off of your lawn. 3) Cherry Amanogawa BOTANICAL NAME: Prunus ‘Amanogawa’ HARDINESS RATING: H6 PREFERRED ASPECT: FULL SUN MAX HEIGHT: 8M MAX WIDTH: 4M This tree boasts a lovely colour spectrum: its yellow foliage with pink blossoms in spring moves through green in the summer to a lovely orangey-red in autumn. The RHS notes that this tree lends itself particularly well to city and courtyard gardens as its form is narrow and columnar. It will grow to a height of 4-8m, and to a spread of 2.5-4m, over 20-50 years. 4) Cootamundra Wattle BOTANICAL NAME: Acacia baileyana HARDINESS RATING: H3 PREFERRED ASPECT: SHELTERED; FULL SUN MAX HEIGHT: 8M MAX WIDTH: 4M This tree – also called the golden mimosa – is an evergreen shrub that flowers vibrant yellow in late winter and early spring, providing a splash of colour to any space it inhabits. It will reach a similar size to the cherry Amanogawa blossom over a time span of 10-20 years. 5) Koehne Mountain Ash BOTANICAL NAME: Sorbus koehneana ‘C.K. Schneid’ HARDINESS RATING: H6 PREFERRED ASPECT: ANY MAX HEIGHT: 8M MAX WIDTH: 4M A tree with a quintessentially autumnal palette of brown and red foliage with white fruit. This is another tree that lends itself well to city gardens and will grow to a similar size as the cherry Amanogawa and the Cootamundra wattle over a period of 10-20 years. 6) Eastern Redbud ‘Forest Pansy’ BOTANICAL NAME: Cercis canadensis ‘Forest Pansy’ HARDINESS RATING: H5 PREFERRED ASPECT: ANY MAX HEIGHT: 8M MAX WIDTH: 8M This tree is captivating with its heart-shaped leaves that remain a deep red-purple for most of the year, presenting more autumnal shades of bronze and orange as the year progresses. The eye-catching colours, and the fact that the leaves are never green, make this a popular choice for gardeners wanting a tree that makes a design statement. Over 10-20 years this tree will grow to a maximum height and spread of 8m. 7) Paperback Maple BOTANICAL NAME: Acer griseum HARDINESS RATING: H5 PREFERRED ASPECT: SHELTERED MAX HEIGHT: 10-12M MAX WIDTH: 6M This tree originally hails from China, and its name comes from bark that peels off in papery layers. It boasts green throughout most of the year with yellow flowers in spring and red foliage in autumn. The paperback maple will grow to a maximum height of around 12m, and a spread of up to 8m. This will take 20-50 years. 8) Hemsley Snowball BOTANICAL NAME: Styrax hemsleyanus HARDINESS RATING: H5 PREFERRED ASPECT: SHELTERED; SOUTH OR EAST FACING MAX HEIGHT: 8M MAX WIDTH: 4M Another tree originally hailing from China, called “one of the loveliest of small trees” by the RHS. You can expect to see pleasant white flowers in summer. Over a span of 20-50 years, the tree will reach its maximum height and width of 8m and 4m respectively. 9) Red Windsor Apple BOTANICAL NAME: Malus domestica ‘Red Windsor’ HARDINESS RATING: H6 PREFERRED ASPECT: SHELTERED; FULL SUN MAX HEIGHT: 2.5M MAX WIDTH: 2.5M 10) Rocky Mountain Juniper ‘Blue Arrow’ BOTANICAL NAME: Juniperus scopulorum ‘Blue Arrow’ HARDINESS RATING: H6 PREFERRED ASPECT: ANY MAX HEIGHT: 2.5M MAX WIDTH: 0.5M 11) Cockspur Coral BOTANICAL NAME: Erythrina crista-galli HARDINESS RATING: H3 PREFERRED ASPECT: SHELTERED; FULL SUN MAX HEIGHT: 2.5M MAX WIDTH: 1.5M 12) Flamingo Willow BOTANICAL NAME: Salix integra ‘Hakuro-nishiki’ HARDINESS RATING: H5 PREFERRED ASPECT: FULL SUN MAX HEIGHT: 2.5M MAX WIDTH: 2M 13) Japanese Maple ‘Elegans’ BOTANICAL NAME: Acer palmatum ‘Elegans’ HARDINESS RATING: H6 PREFERRED ASPECT: SHELTERED MAX HEIGHT: 2.5M MAX WIDTH: 2.5M 14) Redbud ‘Ruby Falls’ BOTANICAL NAME: Cercis canadensis ‘Ruby Falls’ HARDINESS RATING: H5 PREFERRED ASPECT: FULL SUN MAX HEIGHT: 2.5M MAX WIDTH: 2.5M 15) Blue Fan Palm BOTANICAL NAME: Brahea armata HARDINESS RATING: H1C PREFERRED ASPECT: SHELTERED; FULL SUN MAX HEIGHT: 12M MAX WIDTH: 4-6M 16) Mediterranean Fan Palm BOTANICAL NAME: Chamaerops humilis HARDINESS RATING: H4 PREFERRED ASPECT: SHELTERED; PART SHADE MAX HEIGHT: 2.5M MAX WIDTH: 1.5M 17) Kousa ‘Miss Satomi’ BOTANICAL NAME: Cornus kousa ‘Miss Satomi’ HARDINESS RATING: H6 PREFERRED ASPECT: ANY MAX HEIGHT: 4M MAX WIDTH: 4M 18) Star Magnolia ‘Jane Platt’ BOTANICAL NAME: Magnolia stellata ‘Jane Platt’ HARDINESS RATING: H6 PREFERRED ASPECT: SHELTERED MAX HEIGHT: 2.5M MAX WIDTH: 3M 19) Spindle ‘Red Cascade’ BOTANICAL NAME: Euonymus europaeus ‘Red Cascade’ HARDINESS RATING: H6 PREFERRED ASPECT: ANY MAX HEIGHT: 4M MAX WIDTH: 2.5M Why Plant A Tree In A Small Garden? “No garden is too small for a tree”, says the Royal Horticultural Society. So while you may feel like your garden is too small for a tree, the likelihood is that there will be something suitable and that you won’t have to go without. Plants and bushes are great, but there’s nothing quite like the majesty of a tree to bring an outdoor space to life. Whether you go for one that bears fruit or something purely ornamental, a tree will contribute something quite special to your garden. They are also great for providing shade and privacy – shade can be useful when planning seating areas and similar, or for growing plants that do not thrive in full sunlight. Key Considerations When planting a sapling, leave enough space around it for the fully grown tree. This ensures that it won’t cause any problems as it grows. You should double-check that the full size of the tree – including canopy, trunk, and roots – won’t interfere with nearby property or structures. A good guideline is to plant the tree away from any buildings, one and a half times further away than its expected maximum height (so if your tree’s maximum height is 8m, plant it 12m away). It’s worth following this piece of advice even when that seems like a lot of extra space: though the width of the tree may fit comfortably into the space around it, the roots are prone to spread way beyond the confines of the canopy. Having to dig up and relocate a tree that has begun to establish itself is a big job! Despite what you might think initially, a small garden doesn’t mean that you can’t enjoy the majestic presence of a tree. There are many trees that lend themselves well to small spaces, and these span a range of shapes, sizes, colours, and histories. The nineteen trees in our list are just a small sample of the trees available for a garden where space is at a premium. Happy planting!
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Cats Pooping In Your Garden? Try These 12 Gardener-Approved Plants To Keep Them Away
IN THIS GUIDE Keeping Cats Out Which Plants Keep Cats Out? 1) Lavender 2) Rosemary 3) Rue 4) Curry Herb Plant 5) Pennyroyal 6) Scaredy Cat Plant 7) Any Plant With Thorns 8) Catnip 9) Citronella 10) Geraniums 11) Lemon Thyme 12) Oregano Other Methods To Deter Cats What If A Cat Already Pooped In My Garden? Beware Freshly Turned Soil References “How do you stop cats pooping in your garden?” It’s a question that haunts gardeners across the country, but thankfully there are some simple steps you can take to stop these feline visitors leaving unwanted contributions in your garden. This guide focuses on plants that provide a natural and inoffensive way of keeping cats out of your garden, so that you can enjoy the peace of mind of not having to clean up their mess, without causing them any long term discomfort or distress. Keeping Cats Out Unfortunately, while cats are cute, their excrement can have a real negative impact on your garden. Contaminated soil is a problem for plants and gardeners, so it’s best to prevent it from happening in the first place. Cats are also known to dig soil to prepare an area to be used as a toilet, which can be detrimental to plants or crops being grown there. Rather than inspecting flower beds every day and removing unwanted manure donations by hand, many gardeners make the decision to keep cats at bay by other means. Which Plants Keep Cats Out? The following twelve plants are renowned for their ability to keep cats away. They are best situated at entry points to your garden or mixed into the borders of flower beds. Cats will be less inclined to cross them or walk past them due to the smell or texture. They’ll be wary of jumping over, too: especially if they can’t see past the plant. 1) Lavender We’ve put this at the top of the list because the smell that cats find so unpleasant is what makes the plant so appealing for humans, making this a very popular cat deterrent. Lavender grows all year round and will provide a nice purple hue to your flower beds. The more creative chefs amongst you may be able to incorporate it into your culinary efforts as well. 2) Rosemary Following on from the pleasant smell of lavender, rosemary is another popular cat deterrent with a human appeal. It shares the same benefits as lavender – evergreen and attractive – but can be used more easily in your cooking. 3) Rue An ornamental herb that flowers with bold yellow colouring. It is quite short-lived and has a shrubby habit. The plant is said to have an offensive smell and taste for cats, so they’re unlikely to tolerate being in its presence for long! 4) Curry Herb Plant “Cats don’t like curry”, one website accurately observes in their description of this herb. Cats and other animals don’t like the smell that’s released when they brush past this plant, so they’ll take steps to avoid it. 5) Pennyroyal A member of the mint family that emits a smell similar to peppermint when crushed up or brushed past. As with the other strongly scented plants in this list, cats aren’t a fan of the smell and would rather avoid it entirely. 6) Scaredy Cat Plant A native of Africa and India, the jury is out on whether this plant works.1 If you take a chance with this plant, make sure you don’t pay over the odds from a seller trying to leverage its name and reputation. “Also, remember that it is not hardy, so will need to be brought under cover over winter,” shares Master Horticulturist Peter Lickorish. 7) Any Plant With Thorns Spiky thorns are a less subtle deterrent than smells and scents, and no cat is going to risk skewering itself to go to the toilet. If you opt for the thorny approach you have lots of options: rose bushes will give you pretty flowers if you tend them carefully while still keeping cats at bay, whereas dense shrubs like blackberry or even holly will create formidable barriers. Shrubs are especially effective as border defences: if a cat comes up against a thick wall of spiky holly on their way into your garden, it’s likely that they’ll turn around and look elsewhere instead. 8) Catnip If you want to come at things from another angle, you can plant catnip in one part of your garden to lure cats away from other areas. This plant – also known as catswort, catwort, and catmint – gives cats a natural high that most can’t resist. The dried form is popular at pet shops and is used in all sorts of cat toys, but not many people know that you can grow your own at home. If cats smell this they’ll almost certainly stop to investigate, so consider planting a little bit in a tucked away area of your garden to tempt the cats away from your prized beds. 9) Citronella “Cats are not fans of citrus scents, so this Pelargonium can deter cats from jumping into pots or small borders, but this plant is not hardy,” says Peter. “For plants to grow year-round outdoors with a strong citrus fragrance over winter, your options are sadly limited.” 10) Geraniums “Another plant using fragrance as a defence from cats, Geraniums cover the soil, further reducing the likelihood of it being used as a toilet,” Peter says. 11) Lemon Thyme “This is a compact plant, which packs a lemony punch,” explains Peter. “Suited to hot, dry conditions, it could be planted in fine gravel which cats consider a litter tray.” 12) Oregano “Chemically, oregano has similar components to the Plectranthus mentioned earlier, so another one cats are not likely to be drawn to,” says Peter. “This is maybe one for a mix of cat-deterrent plants, rather than being relied upon on its own.” Other Methods To Deter Cats Consider this section a bonus: here we’ll detail a few other ways to keep cats away from your flower beds. Laying mulch on top of your soil is an effective defence because it looks less appealing as a makeshift litter tray than fresh soil. “Choose your mulch carefully, as bark chippings may attract cats, whereas cats do not generally like pine needles,” saya Peter. “Pine needles are a useful mulch for acidifying soil if this is beneficial.” Cats aren’t fans of other surfaces like chicken wire or specially made spike mats, either: laying these down is another way to encourage them to go elsewhere. And don’t worry, although spike mats don’t sound particularly nice, they’re designed to not hurt cats. Tapping back into their sense of smell, you can use other scents to keep cats away. One fearsome example is lion dung, which tricks cats into thinking a bigger cat has already claimed this patch. No neighbourhood moggy will dare step foot in a lion’s den If you’re less interested in psychological warfare, things like citrus peelings, coffee grounds or even vinegar will put cats off. You can scatter these things, or use sprays that contain their scent. Remember that you’ll need to replenish these smells when you notice cats coming back into the garden, as they’ll fade over time. This is more likely after strong rainfall. What If A Cat Already Pooped In My Garden? If a cat has left a present before you’ve had the chance to put up your plant-based defences, there are a few steps you can take to safely remove it. You’ll need thick gloves to keep your hands clean, a digging tool, and a sealable plastic bag. Scoop the poop into the bag along with a couple of inches of soil beneath it to make sure you’ve got the lot, then tie a knot in the bag and throw it in the bin. (Note: it’s not safe to compost cat droppings, so you’ll want to throw it in your main bin). Disinfect the gloves and the digging tool before using either again, just to make sure they’re not contaminated. Beware Freshly Turned Soil “Freshly turned over soil seems to be a lure for the cats in my neighbourhood, so cultivating soil and planting immediately afterwards might be a good idea,” adds Peter. “Consider using these plants and tricks to keep bird feeders a little safer from felines, but remember that hanging them near dense cover could give cats space to hide and stalk prey.” By planting the right things in the right places, you can discourage cats from visiting your garden. References 1. Coleus caninus. (n.d.). Kew Royal Botanic Gardens. Retrieved March 14, 2023, from https://powo.science.kew.org/taxon/urn:lsid:ipni.org:names:445934-1
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Why Are There No Birds In My Garden? How You Can Lure Them With Food, Water And Shelter
IN THIS GUIDE Identifying Visiting Birds 1) Utilise A Bird Feeder 2) Use Food That Birds Prefer 3) Introduce A Bird Bath 4) Use A Nest Box 5) Attract Birds With Plants That’s It… References You may be wondering, “why are there no birds in my garden?” Fret not, even if there are none visiting at the moment, there are ways to lure them in. The first step in most cases is to provide them with something to eat. And don’t worry, you’re not stuck if you live in a city – this guide will tell you how to attract birds to an urban garden, too. This guide focuses on three main things: food, water, and shelter. And here’s what you might need: A bird feeder. A bird bath. A nest box. Bushes or shrubs with berries. Plants that attract insects. Let’s get started. Identifying Visiting Birds First up, here are some tips and resources for identifying the birds that come to visit. If you aren’t a keen ornithologist, the Royal Society for the Protection of Birds (RSPB) have a great bird identification tool.1 Just plug in the particulars of a bird, and the tool will tell you what you’re looking at. There are also tons of bird-spotting books available online, at libraries, and often at charity shops. According to the RSPB, here are the most common garden birds that you’re likely to see: Starlings House Sparrows Blackbirds Blue & Great Tits Robins Greenfinches Collared Doves 1) Utilise A Bird Feeder Let’s be honest, most creatures are motivated mainly by food – thankfully, birds aren’t much different. Setting up a bird feeder in a prime location is often a good first step in attracting birds into your garden. When setting up a feeder, finding the sweet spot is important. It should be close enough to a tree or bush that a bird can quickly make a getaway, but not too close that lurking cats could leap from their cover and attack before a feeding bird has a chance to react. With this in mind, don’t be offended if birds don’t flock to your new feeder straight away: it can take them a while to get used to things, and to feel confident (and safe!) approaching something they don’t recognise. To maximise the chance of birds visiting, keep your feeders clean. You wouldn’t eat food from a place that others had used as a toilet, so you shouldn’t expect birds to do so. How To Make A Bird Feeder If after reading the previous sections you’re scratching your head, here are some ideas on how to build a bird feeder (or set up a pre-bought one). You have almost unlimited flexibility when making a DIY bird feeder for your garden. We’ve seen guides to make them from bowls and plates, teacups, wine bottles, jars, shoes, wooden spoons, and all sorts. A DIY bird-feeder made using a plastic bottle As long as there is somewhere for a bird to stand, and somewhere for food to be stored, you’ve got a functional bird feeder. But there are a couple of things to bear in mind: Some bird feeder designs automatically replenish the seed from a container that animals can’t access. This can protect against one hungry animal clearing the lot, or from the wind distributing your feed all over the garden. An open bird feeder will attract other animals too: squirrels are notoriously fond of bird seed. “There are all sorts of ways to make a garden more wildlife friendly, but when it comes to giving advice, I am cautious about one-hit tips such as feed the birds,” shares Gardener Naomi Slade. “A garden may be created by a gardener, but it is still a community of organisms which relate to each other and interact together, so attracting other animals will also benefit your birds.” Cheeky squirrels see bird seed as easy food 2) Use Food That Birds Prefer First, a few things not to give birds: Milk. Margarine or vegetable oil. Salted, dry roasted, or otherwise flavour nuts. Desiccated coconut: this can expand and kill birds. Any cheese other than mild ones. Cooked porridge oats: they get sticky and can seal a bird’s beak! Mouldy foods: while some moulds are safe, others are deadly. It’s probably best to avoid them all rather than take the chance. Bird Seed Mix This is the first place many people look, and different mixes will contain different ingredients. Here’s what to look out for: Small seeds will attract house sparrows, finches, collared doves, dunnocks, and reed buntings. Maize is the favourite of blackbirds. Sunflower seeds and peanuts will attract greenfinches, all types of tits, dunnocks, robins, and possibly wrens. Make sure they are plain and unsalted. Barley grains and wheat are the favourite of pigeons, doves, and the occasional pheasant. Nyjer seeds, which you may not have heard of, are popular with siskins, goldfinches, sparrows, nuthatches, and even woodpeckers. And here’s what to avoid: Lentils and split peas are too big to be eaten dry by most bird species. Lumps of dog biscuits are the same: these are only suitable for birds when they’ve been soaked, which they probably won’t be in a feeder. Not all birds will be attracted to the bird mix in your feeder. Here are some other options. Fat Balls We’ve all seen birds hanging jauntily upside down from a fat ball on a winter morning. If you want to bring this unusual sight to your garden, here’s what to do. Simply hang the fat ball from a branch after removing it from its mesh bag (if relevant) and wait for the birds to come. You can make your own fat balls, too. Just pour melted fat over a selection of nuts and seeds (see previous section). You want about 1:2 parts fat:mix. Note: you shouldn’t use leftover fat from cooking, as oils from foods mix in with it and this can be problematic for birds. Do not use margarine or vegetable oil: birds need lots of saturated fat, which these products take deliberate steps to avoid. Live Food Potentially not for the faint-hearted! Buying or breeding mealworms and other types of insect can attract robins, blue tits, pied wagtails, and wrens. Just make sure the worms are fresh, otherwise you risk making the birds unwell. Because of the creepy crawlies involves, this option definitely isn’t for everyone. Pet Food Some birds love the moist chunks of dog and cat food. The theory is that it acts as a substitute for warm wiggly worms in the depths of winter, when the topsoil is too hard for birds to penetrate. Leaving a bowl of food out can attract blackbirds, magpies, gulls, and even cats! If you live in an area with lots of roaming cats you may find this option counterproductive, as birds will likely be scared off by the cats you attract. Other Foods Grated cheese can attract robins, wrens, and dunnocks. Cooked, unsalted rice is a great winter food and will be enjoyed by all species. Uncooked rice will attract bigger birds and, despite myths, will not expand in their stomach and cause them to burst. Breakfast cereal in small quantities, because large amounts quickly become soggy mush. 3) Introduce A Bird Bath Now that dinner is taken care of, you can start to think about satisfying birds’ other needs. Namely, giving them something to drink. All species need to drink water, and some birds also use it to clean themselves and bathe in. Whether you decide to buy a bird bath or build your own, it’s quite a simple job. All you need is a watertight bowl, something to raise it off the ground slightly, and some water to put in it. When choosing the bowl, make sure it has: Shallow-sloping sides (more like a dustbin lid than a washing-up bowl). A depth of 10cm maximum. A width of 30cm or more. As with bird feeders, make sure your bird bath is out of cat pouncing distance. Birds need to feel safe while bathing! Robins love to bathe in garden bird baths! You can line the bowl with small stones to give the birds a bit more purchase. Once your bird bath is ready you can expect to see blackbirds, starlings, robins, sparrows, wood pigeons, and more. 4) Use A Nest Box Another option for attracting birds is to give them somewhere cosy to sleep. You may see a nest box called a bird box or nesting box. This provision is vital for some bird species. According to the RSPB, about half of the UK’s barn owls now nest in boxes.2 Again you need to decide whether to buy or build. Building one is a simple job: you just need some wood, a saw, a hammer, and a few nails. If you decide to build, we recommend using the nest box schematics available on the RSPB website.3 A few things to consider when setting up your bird box: Make sure the box is deep enough, and that the entrance hole is high enough to protect small birds from falling out or being dragged out by a cat. Include drainage holes so that any visiting birds don’t drown. Sparrows will nest in colonies, so you can make a “sparrow terrace” by having a few nest boxes alongside each other. Face the box northeast so that it is protected from the strongest sunlight. A height of between two and four metres is suitable for most species. 5) Attract Birds With Plants We’ve covered food, water, washing, and sleep so far. One more option is to lure birds into your garden with plants. “Structural diversity and water are key to maximising insect life in the garden,” says Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly. “This means planting as many different types of trees, shrubs and perennials as possible with as long a flowering season as possible, and making sure there is water available. “This will ensure that the base of the food chain is as big as possible to provide the greatest food source possible throughout the year. “This aims to provide an ecosystem in which birds can seek plentiful food and nesting opportunities with bird feeders as a bonus rather than as an essential component.” Choosing plants with fruits and berries, or plants that attract insects, adds a few more dishes to the menu available to birds visiting your garden. The RSPB says that thrushes in particular are attracted to gardens with berries on offer. They give this list of thrush types that you can expect to see: Fieldfares Redwings Mistle Song You may see blackbirds, as well. Choosing plants that are popular with insects will attract birds, too, as it brings another food source to your garden. This can be a good workaround for people who don’t fancy buying or breeding mealworms as bird food! Here are a few suggestions for plants that tick these boxes. For insects: Yarrow Lemon balm Marigolds Dill Cosmos Alyssum Fennel Mallow Lobelia Buddleja Marjoram Lavender Dandelion And plants with berries: All types of currants Elderberries Holly Juniper Raspberry These lists are far from exhaustive! That’s It… After reading this guide you should have a firm idea of the things you can do to attract interesting birds to your garden, whether that’s a few acres of woodland or a small urban patch. The main things to focus on are food, drink, washing, and sleep. Much like humans, birds will visit places where they know they can get a good meal and somewhere comfortable to hang out. The tips in this guide have the combined advantage of making your garden a nicer space in general, too. Everyone wins! Check out Rattan Direct’s guide to the RSPB Bird Watching Weekend for more info on attracting birds to your garden!4 Good luck with your newfound bird-watching opportunities. References 1. Bird Identifier. (n.d.). The RSPB. Retrieved March 17, 2023, from https://www.rspb.org.uk/birds-and-wildlife/wildlife-guides/identify-a-bird/ 2. Providing Nest Sites For Bigger Birds. (n.d.). The RSPB. Retrieved March 17, 2023, from https://www.rspb.org.uk/birds-and-wildlife/advice/how-you-can-help-birds/nestboxes/nestboxes-for-owls-and-kestrels/providing-nest-sites-for-bigger-birds/ 3. Where To Put A Bird Box. (n.d.). The RSPB. Retrieved March 17, 2023, from https://www.rspb.org.uk/birds-and-wildlife/advice/how-you-can-help-birds/nestboxes/nestboxes-for-small-birds/making-and-placing-a-bird-box/ 4. Cliff, D. (2020, March 17). Bird Watching Weekend with RSPB. Rattan Direct Furniture Blog. Retrieved March 17, 2023, from https://www.rattandirect.co.uk/blog/bird-watching-weekend-with-rspb/
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Garden Hedgehogs Face Many Risks: Here's 12 Practical Steps To Help Protect Them
IN THIS GUIDE Habits Of A Hedgehog Why Do Hedgehogs Need To Be Protected? What Can We Do To Help Hedgehogs? 1) Move Injured Hedgehogs Out Of Harm’s Way 2) Find The Best Course Of Action To Help Injured Hedgehogs Heal 3) Be Careful Not To Cause Injuries To Hedgehogs 4) Leave Some Wild Areas In Your Garden 5) Give Hedgehogs Something To Eat 6) Build A Wooden Hedgehog Home 7) Build A More Simple Hedgehog Home 8) Don’t Disturb Nesting Hedgehogs 9) Don’t Return Stray Babies To Their Nest 10) Connect Gardens With Hedgehog Holes 11) Avoid Slug Pellets 12) Check Bonfires Carefully Before Lighting In Conclusion… References Hedgehogs are a centrepiece of British wildlife. They are an instantly recognisable part of our cultural heritage, from Beatrix Potter’s Mrs. Tiggy-Winkle right through to Sonic the Hedgehog. If you’re wondering how to attract hedgehogs to your garden, how to help them find food and shelter, and how to protect them in the wild, then this guide is for you. Here’s what we’ll cover: Hedgehog life-cycles Risks to hedgehogs Things you can do to help injured hedgehogs How to prevent hedgehog injury Making your garden safer for hedgehogs Making your neighbourhood safer for hedgehogs Let’s start with a look at what hedgehogs get up to. Habits Of A Hedgehog Overturned plant pots can make for a welcoming home If you’re not familiar, hedgehogs are spiky, nocturnal mammals.1 They’re quite small, and their spiny presence is quite rare because of their night-time habits. During autumn and early winter they’re building up fat reserves to survive the winter. Then, in the winter, they hibernate. They take shelter in a specially built nest and hang out over winter. In late March and early April, hedgehogs wake up from their hibernation and begin to search for food.2 Then in May and June hedgehogs give birth to their litters, before repeating the cycle. Why Do Hedgehogs Need To Be Protected? While hedgehogs are considered to be at least concern of extinction by the International Union for Conservation of Nature (IUCN), they are struggling.3 There are thought to be fewer than a million hedgehogs left in the UK, with 30-70% of populations disappearing since 2000 according to the Wildlife Trusts.4 Their favourite habitats – quiet, grassy places like gardens, parks hedgerows, woodlands, and grasslands – are often under threat from climate change, development, and intensive agriculture. These are the same factors we saw in our bees and butterflies guides: hedgehogs are another animal that, sadly, just can’t keep up. Despite dwindling populations overall, urban populations have actually increased. As natural habitats change, hedgehogs are relying more and more on gardens in urban and suburban areas. Thankfully they are considered “a species of ‘principal importance’ under the NERC Act, which is meant to confer a ‘duty of responsibility’ to public bodies”, according to Hedgehog Street.5 Legal protection isn’t a quick fix for the things that hedgehogs find problematic, though, so in the meantime we need to step in. What Can We Do To Help Hedgehogs? Thankfully, there are plenty of things you can do to help, both in your garden and beyond. Here we share 12 things you can do to help hedgehogs, many of which are quick and easy. They are centred around helping hedgehogs to: Heal quickly if they are injured Find enough food and drink Find somewhere safe to sleep Travel freely Avoid injury In exchange, they will help you too! Hedgehogs are known as Gardner’s Friends for good reason: “diet of common garden pests such as slugs, snails and caterpillars”.6 (Not that we help them with the expectation of something in return!) 1) Move Injured Hedgehogs Out Of Harm’s Way Because hedgehogs are nocturnal, if you see one in the daytime it usually means something’s not right. If you come across a hedgehog laying on the grass or by the side of the road, there’s a strong likelihood that it is injured or in distress. St Tiggywinkles, the renowned and adorably named wildlife hospital, give this advice for helping an injured hedgehog: “If your hedgehog is very poorly or is cold, you can also give it a hot water bottle or a drinks bottle filled with warm water and wrapped in a tea towel, to snuggle up to.” While you’re looking after an injured hedgehog, keep them sheltered in a cardboard box. Keep in mind they’re keen climbers, though: you’ll want to make sure the box has high edges. Lining the box with newspaper will give them somewhere cosy to recover. A tea towel draped over the box gives the hedgehog somewhere to hide and feel safe. Feeding them a little bit of dog or cat food will go down well, but bear in mind that they do not like bread and milk. How To Pick Up A Hedgehog It’s important to know how to pick up a hedgehog in a way that won’t injure you or it. Handle with care To avoid getting pricked, you can wear thick gardening gloves or use a towel. Put your hands flat either side of the hedgehog, and gently scoop them up. Please bear in mind that you should only pick up injured hedgehogs. You’re not picking them up to pet them, you’re trying to help them. 2) Find The Best Course Of Action To Help Injured Hedgehogs Heal Talking to a wildlife hospital or specialist hedgehog care organisation can help you find out the best course of action. Here are some people you could talk to: The Hedgehog Society St Tiggywinkles Hedgehog Bottom You may find yourself looking after a hedgehog for just a short time, or you may have to care for an overwintered hedgehog until it is strong enough to go back out in the wild. If this is the case, it’s important to stop weak hedgehogs from hibernating. A weight of below 600g by the end of December is considered risky for hibernation, as their fat reserves may not be enough to last them through the winter months.10 It’s good to try to encourage them to forage for their food and to expose them to natural light patterns, so that they don’t get too comfortable or complacent to survive when they go back outside. 3) Be Careful Not To Cause Injuries To Hedgehogs Strimmers and lawn mowers are two common causes of hedgehogs getting seriously injured, and having to be put down. When you fire them up, be careful that the areas you’re strimming or mowing are free of hedgehogs! Hedgehogs can also be injured while taking shelter in compost piles. If you have a compost pile in your garden and you plan to turn it with a pitchfork or similar, check underneath first. They can also become trapped in barbed wire, so if you use any in your garden, have it at a minimum height of 30cm. 4) Leave Some Wild Areas In Your Garden Hedgehogs like to snuffle for insects to eat, and insects are more likely to be found in wild and overgrown areas. By leaving a dedicated wild patch, you give insects somewhere to hang out in your garden. Because hedgehogs are insectivores – meaning they eat insects – they will be attracted to a garden with wild, insected areas. Insects are drawn to overgrown areas, bee hotels, log piles, and freshwater sources. If your freshwater source is a pond, make sure there is a net over the top or an exit ramp at one side. This means that a hedgehog will not drown if it falls in: because despite being good swimmers, they will get tired out and exhausted if they can’t get out. 5) Give Hedgehogs Something To Eat The foods mentioned above (cat food, dog food) can be left outside in a bowl around dusk, as can water. But remember: no bread or milk! Hedgehogs travel far and wide searching for food, and making their search easier will reduce the amount of roads they need to cross. 6) Build A Wooden Hedgehog Home If you want to go a step further in making your garden a safe space for hedgehogs, you can build them somewhere to live. The Wildlife Trusts have some great instructions for building a hedgehog home, which will look something like this11: Image courtesy of The Wildlife Trusts12 All you need to build a hedgehog home is a hammer and nails, some wood, a bit of sheeting, newspaper, and some leaves and soil for insulation. By cleaning your hedgehog home once a year in spring – after hibernation and before they start looking for a mate – you provide a safe, clean shelter for visiting hogs. Make sure the resident hedgehog has moved on before cleaning. If you clean while they’re just out hunting or exploring, they may abandon the home. 7) Build A More Simple Hedgehog Home You can also make a simpler home from a plastic container if you don’t fancy getting the tools out. Again, great instructions are provided by the Wildlife Trust.13 The same cleaning tips apply for a plastic hedgehog home: fresh bedding once a year in springtime. They can also live in compost piles: check out our guide to composting for tips on building a pile. 8) Don’t Disturb Nesting Hedgehogs Mother hedgehogs feed their hoglets for around eight weeks after birth. If their nest is disturbed in this time, the mother may abandon the hoglets, or even eat them. To avoid this gnarly fate, take very careful efforts not to touch or otherwise interfere with the nest. You can leave food nearby to reduce the distance mum has to travel when hunting, but again, be careful not to get your scent too close to the nest. 9) Don’t Return Stray Babies To Their Nest Human scent will mean the mother does not recognise the baby, and they will most likely eat the perceived intruder. If you find a stray hoglet, refer to steps 1 to 3 above. You may have to look after it indoors, or take it to a trained professional for proper care. 10) Connect Gardens With Hedgehog Holes Hedgehogs need to travel to find food, friends, and somewhere to sleep. Fences between gardens are a huge hindrance to their night-time wanderings. The average hedgehog roams up to 2 kilometres a night, which is a long way considering their small size! By giving them a way to move around the neighbourhood more easily, you help to keep them out of harm’s way. If they’re able to travel through gardens and hedges and undergrowth, they don’t have to expose themselves to busy roads. By putting hedgehog holes in your fences you’re becoming part of something bigger than yourself. Over 60,000 people are currently registered on Hedgehog Street – a campaign for connecting gardens in Britain!14 “It sounds such a simple thing but leaving the appropriate size gap under your gate or fence gravel board can make your garden instantly accessible to hedgehogs,” shares Master Horticulturist Dan Ori. “I do this in my own garden and garden projects; if you ever need to talk a gardener into making modifications to help hedgehogs just use the magic words “they eat slugs” and you will have an instant convert.” 11) Avoid Slug Pellets Remember what we said earlier: if you attract hedgehogs to your garden, they can help to control levels of slugs and various other pests that they feed on. If they eat a poisoned slug, they will suffer ill effects.15 Wood preservers on fences can be poisonous for hedgehogs too, so try to avoid these on fences near areas where hedgehogs will be. And keep in mind that hedgehogs can fall into other substances – like paint, sump oil, and chemicals in drains – if they are left uncovered. Make sure to cover anything that an inquisitive hedgehog might investigate. 12) Check Bonfires Carefully Before Lighting Hedgehogs find the stacked wood of a bonfire particularly alluring, so if you build a bonfire pile over time, check for any nesting hedgehogs before lighting it. This will help protect them against being incinerated. In Conclusion… Hedgehogs are gentle, curious creatures that spend their time snuffling for food, exploring, and finding comfortable places to hibernate. Their traditional habitats are at risk, and they have turned to urban areas as a result. This puts them in the way of risks they are not familiar with, but there are a few things we can do to make their lives easier. The steps in this guide will give visiting hedgehogs their best chance at staying safe, well fed, and sheltered in your garden. References 1. Bradford, A. (2015, June 16). Hedgehog Facts. livescience.com. Retrieved March 23, 2023, from https://www.livescience.com/51221-hedgehog.html 2. Hedgehog Hibernation. (2021, October 14). Hedgehog Street. Retrieved March 23, 2023, from https://www.hedgehogstreet.org/about-hedgehogs/hibernation/ 3. Amori, G. (2016, September 9). Erinaceus europaeus. IUCN Red List of Threatened Species. Retrieved March 23, 2023, from https://www.iucnredlist.org/species/29650/2791303 4. Henshall, M. (2022b, March 2). The State of Britain’s Hedgehogs 2022. National Biodiversity Network. Retrieved March 23, 2023, from https://nbn.org.uk/news/the-state-of-britains-hedgehogs-2022/ 5. Legal protection for hedgehogs. (2017, August 2). Hedgehog Street. Retrieved March 23, 2023, from https://www.hedgehogstreet.org/legal-protection/ 6. Martin, J. (2019, July 7). What do hedgehogs eat. Woodland Trust. Retrieved March 23, 2023, from https://www.woodlandtrust.org.uk/blog/2019/07/what-hedgehogs-eat/ 7. Home. (2022, July 19). The British Hedgehog Preservation Society. Retrieved March 23, 2023, from https://www.britishhedgehogs.org.uk/ 8. Home. (2023, January 24). Tiggywinkles – Wildlife Hospital. Retrieved March 23, 2023, from https://www.sttiggywinkles.org.uk/ 9. Home. (n.d.-c). Hedgehog Bottom – Hospital & Rescue. Retrieved March 23, 2023, from http://www.hedgehog-rescue.org.uk/ 10. Hedgehog Fact Sheet – Tiggywinkles. (2021, November 3). Tiggywinkles – Wildlife Hospital. Retrieved March 23, 2023, from https://www.sttiggywinkles.org.uk/hedgehog-fact-sheet/ 11. How to build a hedgehog home. (n.d.). The Wildlife Trusts. Retrieved March 23, 2023, from https://www.wildlifetrusts.org/actions/how-build-hedgehog-home 12. How to build a hedgehog home. (n.d.). The Wildlife Trusts. Retrieved March 23, 2023, from https://www.wildlifetrusts.org/actions/how-build-hedgehog-home 13. Make A Simple Hedgehog House. (n.d.). Retrieved March 23, 2023, from https://www.wildlifetrusts.org/sites/default/files/2018-11/SIMPLE-HEDGEHOG-HOUSE.jpg 14. Home. (2022a, March 8). Hedgehog Street. Retrieved March 23, 2023, from https://www.hedgehogstreet.org/ 15. Helping Hedgehogs. (2022, February 16). The British Hedgehog Preservation Society. Retrieved March 23, 2023, from https://www.britishhedgehogs.org.uk/helping-hedgehog/
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