Growing
Cultivate Zinnias From Seed With This 5 Step Guide From Master Horticulturists
IN THIS GUIDE When To Sow Zinnia 1) Select Your Variety 2) Prepare Your Planters 3) Sow Your Zinnia Seeds 4) Transplant Outdoors 5) Provide The Right Aftercare Natives of Mexico and the surrounding regions, zinnias are eye-catching flowers which come in a wide variety of shapes, colours and sizes, making them versatile enough to fit any existing design scheme. As annuals, zinnias will die out with the first kiss of frost in late autumn and early winter. Fortunately, you can sow new seeds and coax them into beautiful blooms in a matter of weeks with little fuss. For those not yet confident in their abilities to cultivate zinnias from seed, the following list is a straightforward and easy-to-follow guide: Select your zinnia variety. Prepare your planters (skip this step if sowing outdoors). Sow and allow the zinnia seeds to germinate. Transplant the zinnia seedlings outdoors (skip this step if sowing outdoors). Provide the right aftercare for your zinnias. That might seem a little confusing to the uninitiated, especially since there are two options to sow indoors or directly outdoors. For that reason, we’ve covered each step in greater detail below, alongside some useful information about when is best to tackle the job. Difficulty Easy Equipment Required Plant pots or bags, multi-purpose compost, fertiliser When To Sow 6 weeks before the last frost (indoors), after the last frost (outdoors) When To Plant Out After the last frost When To Sow Zinnia The time when it’s most appropriate to sow your zinnia seeds is entirely dependent on whether you intend to start them indoors or not. The only real advantage of this is that they will germinate more quickly and you’ll be able to enjoy colourful blossoms sooner. If you’re going to go down this route, it’s best to sow them indoors around 6 weeks before the last frost of the season, whenever that might be in your particular part of the country. Be mindful that zinnias don’t always take kindly to transplantation, so using a compostable planter pot or bag is advisable. Since they’re fussy about moving and the advantages of sowing indoors are minimal, I personally recommend growing your zinnias from seed directly in your garden. You can do this immediately after the last frost has passed. 1) Select Your Variety With literally hundreds of different varieties to choose from, there’s one for every aesthetic. Taller types are great for adding architectural intrigue to the rear of beds and borders, while low-growing spreaders are better at filling gaps and providing coverage. “I grow Zinnias in pots, so I choose shorter cultivars to avoid the need for supporting or staking,” says Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly. “These shorter cultivars are also perfect for growing at the front of larger containers tiered in front of taller Dahlias.” You can buy packets of seeds from your local garden centre or you can choose from a vast selection online. Alternatively, you can harvest the seeds from last year’s zinnias to create perfect replica plants. 2) Prepare Your Planters As mentioned above, zinnias are very sensitive to movement and any damage to their root systems can be terminal. As such, it’s a good idea to use compostable planters (or a similar solution) so that you can transplant the whole thing, pot and all, into the outdoor soil later on. Different varieties will require different dimensions for their root system to develop, but as a general rule of thumb, the planter should be 15cm in diameter and depth. Use an all-purpose compost with additional perlite for better drainage, taking care to ensure the pots have holes in their base as well. 3) Sow Your Zinnia Seeds If planting directly outdoors, work the soil over and, if necessary, enrich it with organic compost to enhance its nutrient levels. Sow the seeds and cover over with 0.5cm of soil, then water lightly so that the soil is moist but not saturated. If sowing indoors, cover your planters with plastic and keep the medium moist and humid until sprouts appear. Germination should take around 3-5 days, at which point the plastic can be removed and the planter can be placed on a sunny windowsill. 4) Transplant Outdoors When the seedlings have reached a few centimetres in height and show two sets of leaves, you can thin them out and move outdoors. For best results, you might want to stagger this process so that the sudden change in temperature doesn’t cause undue stress. You can begin by moving them to a shadier spot indoors, then finally move them outside when the time is right. If using a compostable planter, place the whole thing in the ground and ease some soil in around it. If not, take extra care not to disturb the roots when transplanting. 5) Provide The Right Aftercare Zinnias need regular irrigation but can’t stand waterlogged soil, so aim to keep them moist but not saturated. Always water the soil itself rather than the foliage, since wet leaves can instigate powdery mildew or other fungal diseases. Remember to collect seeds at the end of the zinnia’s lifespan if you wish to grow them again the following spring.
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Zinnias Can Be Grown In Pots - But Follow These Cardinal Rules Very Carefully
IN THIS GUIDE 1) Choose Low-Growing Varieties 2) Leave Room For Their Roots! 3) Use Well-Draining, Slightly Acidic Soil 4) Grow From Seed To Avoid Transplantation 5) Leave A Gap Between Plants 6) Keep Well-Watered 7) Add Fertiliser To Pots 8) Deadhead To Prolong Flowering With their bright colours, beautiful blossoms and popularity amongst bees, butterflies and hummingbirds, zinnias are extremely attractive flowers that can brighten up any outdoor border or bed. What’s more, they’re one of the easiest annuals to coax into impressive blooms and that’s just as true when planting in containers as it is in the ground. So, if space is at a premium in your garden, potted zinnias might be the answer. While experienced gardeners should face no problems whatsoever in cultivating zinnias in containers, amateurs might still have a few questions about the process. Here are eight of my top tips when growing zinnias in pots: 1) Choose Low-Growing Varieties So can zinnia be grown in pots? The answer is a resounding yes! All types of zinnia lend themselves to container growing, though you might find that taller varieties can become top-heavy and require staking – or that their root systems can become overcrowded. To avoid complications, I’d advise seeking out smaller, low-growing varieties of zinnia. Some good options include Sanvitalia procumbens (Creeping Zinnia), Zinnia elegans, Zinnia marylandica – while the Profusion and Dreamland Series are also good choices. 2) Leave Room For Their Roots! It’s important to note that zinnias can react negatively to transplantation, so the best course of action would be to plant them directly in the pot you intend to grow for the long term. They’re not fussy in terms of materials – plastic, terracotta, concrete or indeed any other substance will work well as long as it has adequate drainage holes. However, size is an important consideration. Zinnias need room for their roots to develop, so always choose a pot with a minimum depth of 15-20cm. The width of the pot should be the same for individual plants and bigger for multiple groupings. Elongated pots are a great option for combining different colours and varieties, but just be sure to leave a 10cm minimum spacing on either side of your seedlings. 3) Use Well-Draining, Slightly Acidic Soil Zinnias are quite resilient and will cope tolerably well in almost any type of soil, as long as it drains sufficiently. Having said that, they will perform better when the growing medium has rich organic content and is slightly on the acidic side, with a pH level of between 5.5-7.5. If you’re using soil you’ve taken from the garden, you can boost its drainage properties by adding perlite mix. You can also enrich it with aged compost, which will infuse the pot with the nutrients that the plant needs to really thrive. 4) Grow From Seed To Avoid Transplantation Zinnias are generally grown from seeds, which are thankfully quite large and easy to handle. If you’re planning to position your potted zinnias outdoors, begin the sowing process (indoors) around 6 weeks before the last frost. This will give them enough time to establish themselves indoors. If they’re going to stay inside indefinitely, you can start them at any time. Fill your container with the soil mix mentioned above, leaving a few centimetres free at the top. Sprinkle a handful of seeds onto the soil and cover them with a little more soil. Water the top of the soil lightly so that it’s moist but not saturated. Bear in mind that potted zinnias started indoors will germinate far more quickly than those planted outside in the ground. Even just a few days after sowing you might begin to see sprouts emerge. As soon as this happens, remove the plastic film and move the pot to a location where it will receive ample sunlight (at least 6 hours per day). This could be a sunny windowsill, balcony or conservatory. Once the seedlings have 2 true leaves apiece, thin them out and keep only the healthiest-looking plants. If moving outdoors, it’s a good idea to do so in stages so that the sudden change in temperature and climate doesn’t shock your young plants to death. For example, you could move it to a shadier spot indoors first to acclimatise it to lower temperatures. 5) Leave A Gap Between Plants As mentioned above, a good rule of thumb is to allow 10cm on either side of your seedlings so that the roots of the plant have enough space to develop. As a result, the number of zinnias you can plant per pot will depend entirely on the dimensions of your container. Many people simply stick to one per pot and achieve fantastic results that way. 6) Keep Well-Watered It’s important to ensure that the soil serving your potted zinnia never fully dries out, but is never waterlogged either. Instead, aim to maintain moisture levels at all times. You can check whether it needs a drink by sticking a finger into the soil and if the top 2-3cm feels dry, it’s definitely thirsty. Water the soil directly and avoid getting the leaves wet, as this can cause fungal diseases. 7) Add Fertiliser To Pots For the best results, you can fertilise your zinnia plants with a well-balanced household plant fertiliser, diluted to half its strength. Products with high phosphorous levels help the plant to process nutrients. Fertilise 1-2 times a month right through the growing season, but stop altogether as soon as autumn hits. 8) Deadhead To Prolong Flowering Deadheading is strongly encouraged for zinnias, as this will redirect energy away from the seed pods of the spent blooms and prompt it to produce more flowers. “Zinnias are one of the few plants that I would deadhead, both because the spent blooms detract from the overall appearance and because flowering will be sustained over a longer period with regular deadheading,” shares Horticultural Consultant Colin Skelly. When managed appropriately, deadheading can prolong and intensify the blooming season. It’s also a good idea to prune your zinnia plant if it looks like it’s becoming bushy or overcrowded. If there’s not enough air circulation between the foliage and the stems, you could run the risk of blight. As zinnias are annuals, there’s no need to consider overwintering. You should, however, keep your seeds handy, since you’ll need them to gain a fresh batch of beautiful flowering plants the following spring.
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All Weigelas Can Be Pruned In The Same Way - It's Best Done Straight After Flowering
IN THIS GUIDE When To Prune Weigela 1) Remove Damaged Branches 2) Prune Flowered Stalks 3) Get Rid Of Unproductive Stems 4) Remove Weak Shoots 5) Water & Feed Well Available in an array of sizes that all have a tidy, compact growth habit, weigelas are floriferous plants that produce delightful funnel-shaped blooms across spring and summer. Although they are easy to care for, to get the best out of these shrubs they should get an annual prune. Luckily, all weigelas can be pruned in the same way, and even though the process is a multi-step one, it is also pretty straightforward. You can prune weigela bushes by following these steps: Prune back any dead and damaged weigela branches with a pruning saw or bypass secateurs. Remove any flowered stalks, focusing on those which are leggy and out of place. Prune back unproductive stems from your weigela. Remove weak shoots from the previous year’s growth. Water and feed your weigela to help in its recovery. This process is explained in more depth below. Difficulty Medium Equipment Required Gardening gloves, pruning saw, loppers, secateurs When To Prune Summer When To Prune Weigela Weigelas should be pruned immediately after blooming in summer. These deciduous shrubs flower mostly on the previous year’s growth, and this growth starts forming in summer very soon after the blooming season. Therefore, delaying pruning would mean that you may remove the shoots and stems that would have borne flowers. Timely pruning will also allow these shrubs to put out fresh growth and buds that will bear flowers the following season and will be strong enough to withstand the winter frosts. 1) Remove Damaged Branches Branches and stems that are dead or damaged, either from spring frost, disease or breakage, should be pruned first. Damaged branches may be cut at their attachments or at an intermediate position so that the healthy part is left behind. Make the cut just above a node or bud. Similarly, prune or trim branches that may be crossing or rubbing against one another. Depending on the thickness of the branch, you will need a small pruning saw or bypass secateurs. 2) Prune Flowered Stalks Flowered stalks may be pruned even on young shrubs. Use small secateurs or scissors to prune such a stalk at its attachment. On mature shrubs, you may prune the stalk or its mother stem to remove its flowered growth. This may be done at its attachment or just above a node or bud on the green part of the mother stem. By no means should all such stems be trimmed; choose those that are gangly, leggy and that disturb the balance to help restore the shape of the shrub. 3) Get Rid Of Unproductive Stems On a mature shrub, prune old wood that is unproductive by cutting the stems at the base. Remove up to 25% of the total number of stems. A healthy, vigorous bush may not have very many unproductive stems but it may be congested. If so, aim to thin it by removing up to 20% of the stems. A few of these may be pruned to their respective bases while the rest should be trimmed 33-50% of their respective lengths. Cut these to just above a node or bud and try to make the cut at an angle. Secateurs or loppers of the appropriate kind may be used for this task. 4) Remove Weak Shoots You should also look over the previous year’s shoots. A few may be feeble, gangly and less than vigorous, so you should prune such shoots at their attachments. I find a pair of bypass secateurs to be perfect for this task. 5) Water & Feed Well After pruning, water the shrub well. Feed it with a granular fertiliser by working it into the soil at a healthy distance from the crown. A liquid fertiliser may be used instead. “If you experience dry weather in late summer and autumn, generous late summer mulching and watering can result in better flowering next year,” shares Master Horticulturist Dan Ori. “I like to add my granular fertiliser and mulch in early spring as it sets the plant up for the year ahead. I don’t concern myself with a late summer mulch as ours is not especially dry in my part of the UK.”
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Wonderful Weigela - 15 Favourite Types With Horticulturist Dan Ori
IN THIS GUIDE 1) W. ‘Mont-Blanc’ 2) W. ‘Bristol Snowflake’ 3) W. florida ‘Pink Princess’ 4) W. coraeensis ‘Alba’ 5) W. florida ‘Pink Poppet’ 6) W. ‘Vanicek’ 7) W. florida ‘Wine and Roses’ 8) W. ‘Slingco 1’ 9) W. ‘Red Prince’ 10) W. ‘White Lightning’ 11) W. florida ‘Variegata Nana’ 12) W. ‘Briant Rubidor’ 13) W. florida ‘Wings Of Fire’ 14) W. florida ‘Verweig’ 15) W. florida ‘Minor Black’ Marvellously floriferous, weigelas are a great plant for dressing up your garden in more tones of red and pink than you’d care to count. By mid-spring, many weigela varieties are bedecked in a profusion of clusters of small, trumpet or funnel-shaped flowers. Perfectly positioned at that fine border between being naturally neat and tidy and a little unkempt and free-growing, weigelas are bushes that are perfect for cottage gardens or to liven up borders. The deciduous shrubs we have listed below offer a wide choice of sizes and colours to choose from. No matter where you may be located in the UK, you can safely choose any and all of the following fifteen weigela varieties because each selection is hardy to H6 (temperatures down to -20°C). We have sequenced our choices by colour and tone and have finished off the list with some interesting foliage plays. 1) W. ‘Mont-Blanc’ COMMON NAME(S): weigela ‘mont-blanc’ FLOWERS: pink and white FLOWERING SEASON(S): spring / summer SIZE: 1-1.5m in height, 1-1.5m spread For pure white funnel-shaped flowers, ‘Mont-Blanc’ is a great choice, as their white petals develop pink flushes as the plant matures. “This is one of my favourite Weigelas, as the progression of ‘Mont-Blanc’s wedding dress white blooms into a subtle watercolour painted pink flower is magnificent,” says Horticultural Consultant Dan Ori. “I recommend planting ‘Mont-Blanc’ alongside Salvia ‘Hot Lips’ (red-white flower) and Salix ‘Flamingo’'(green-white-pink leaves) to play off complementary colour combinations.” The leaves are of a mid to dark shade of green, which enhances the pure white colour of the blooms. A special attribute is their light, fresh scent. This variety rises to just over 1m in height with a spread to match. 2) W. ‘Bristol Snowflake’ COMMON NAME(S): weigela ‘bristol snowflake’ FLOWERS: white FLOWERING SEASON(S): spring / summer SIZE: 1-1.5m in height, 1-1.5m spread A special feature of ‘Bristol Snowflake’ is that its flowers are almost goblet-shaped, meaning they are somewhat differently shaped than the vast majority of other cultivars. They are white with buttery eyes and rise to just over 1m with a distinctly wider spread, with displays of foliage in a mid-green shade. This shrub produces blooms from mid-spring that can last well into summer. 3) W. florida ‘Pink Princess’ COMMON NAME(S): weigela ‘pink princess’ FLOWERS: pink and purple FLOWERING SEASON(S): spring / summer SIZE: 1-1.5m in height, 1-1.5m spread Probably more lavender than pink, ‘Pink Princess’ produces the classic trumpet-shaped blooms that these heirloom plants are known for. The floral clusters of a delicate lavender-pink tone make a truly beautiful colour combination with the brilliant green shade of the foliage. This variety blooms from late spring until some time in the summer and is over 1m tall and nearly 1.5m wide. 4) W. coraeensis ‘Alba’ COMMON NAME(S): weigela ‘alba’ FLOWERS: cream and pink FLOWERING SEASON(S): spring / summer SIZE: 2.5-4m in height, 2.5-4m spread ‘Alba’ is a unique cultivar, as it produces flowers in two colours. The trumpet-shaped blooms start off creamy white and then gradually mature to a charming rose pink. This means that midway through the flowering season the bush is a wonderful sight, displaying blooms in multiple shades of cream and pink. This is a large-sized variety, growing to 3m in height with a similar spread. 5) W. florida ‘Pink Poppet’ COMMON NAME(S): weigela ‘pink poppet’ FLOWERS: pink FLOWERING SEASON(S): spring / summer SIZE: 0.1-0.5m in height, 0.1-0.5m spread Perfectly named, ‘Pink Poppet’ grows to a mere 40cm high with a spread that may be a tad wider, making it a top choice for containers. It has bright green foliage and funnel-shaped shaped flowers that are of a charming baby pink tone with darker centres. After its first bloom in late spring, it often bursts into bloom again in late summer. 6) W. ‘Vanicek’ COMMON NAME(S): weigela ‘newport red’ FLOWERS: purple and red FLOWERING SEASON(S): spring / summer SIZE: 1.5-2.5m in height, 1.5-2.5m spread ‘Vanicek’ produces goblet or funnel-shaped flowers on the pink-purple colour cusp, which often appear red when in bloom from late spring into summer. The deep green foliage is the perfect complementary colour to that of the blooms. This variety grows to around 2m tall. 7) W. florida ‘Wine and Roses’ COMMON NAME(S): weigela ‘alexandra’ FLOWERS: pink and red FLOWERING SEASON(S): spring / summer / autumn SIZE: 1.5-2.5m in height, 1.5-2.5m spread Producing tubular trumpet-shaped flowers, the attractions of ‘Wine and Roses’ start with its foliage. Of a smoky, bronzy-green hue, the leaves develop yellow and purple tints which deepen in autumn when the flowers are no more. While the flowers are around during this cultivar’s remarkably long blooming season from late spring to early autumn, they colour the shrub in a popping, almost electric, tone of magenta-pink. This plant has received the RHS Award of Garden Merit. 8) W. ‘Slingco 1’ COMMON NAME(S): weigela ‘all summer red’ FLOWERS: red FLOWERING SEASON(S): spring / summer / autumn SIZE: 0.5-1m in height, 0.5-1m spread Bearing rich, red, funnel-shaped flowers whose hues are accented by white pistils, ‘All Summer Red’ is another variety to consider if you want a splash of bold colour in your garden. It more than lives up to its name too, as this gorgeous cultivar blooms from mid-spring clear into autumn. On the small side at about 75cm tall, its bright green leaves display distinct reddish tinges during spring. 9) W. ‘Red Prince’ COMMON NAME(S): weigela ‘red prince’ FLOWERS: pink and red FLOWERING SEASON(S): spring / summer SIZE: 1-1.5m in height, 1-1.5m spread Perhaps the most popular variety here in the UK, ‘Red Prince’ has trumpet-shaped flowers of a riveting lipstick-red hue, with its white pistils making a fine counterpoint and setting off the intense red. This cultivar is 1-1.5m tall and wide and sports pointy ovate leaves of a fresh green shade. It blooms from the late spring and well into the summer. This shrub is another recipient of the RHS Award of Garden Merit. 10) W. ‘White Lightning’ COMMON NAME(S): weigela ‘white lightning’ FLOWERS: pink FLOWERING SEASON(S): spring / summer SIZE: 1.5-2.5m in height, 1.5-2.5m spread Leaves of a mid-green shade surrounded by thick, irregular, creamy-yellow borders make ‘White Lightning’ the most laid-back of my foliage selections. The white or pink-flushed goblet-shaped blooms that open from pink buds and bloom over late spring to mid-summer are the icing on the cake. This cultivar rises to just under 2m tall and has a spread of just over 1m. 11) W. florida ‘Variegata Nana’ COMMON NAME(S): weigela ‘nana variegata’ FLOWERS: pink FLOWERING SEASON(S): spring / summer SIZE: 1-1.5m in height, 1-1.5m spread ‘Nana Variegata’ is a wonderfully floriferous option with foliage interest. It is compact, growing to just over 1m high with a similar spread. Its light green leaves emerge with bright yellow edging which lightens to a creamy colour, eventually fading to white. The little funnel-shaped blooms are of a gentle pastel lavender-pink hue and they too lighten and fade to white, mirroring the foliage. These flowers are borne from late spring into summer. 12) W. ‘Briant Rubidor’ COMMON NAME(S): weigela ‘olympiade’ FLOWERS: red FLOWERING SEASON(S): spring / summer SIZE: 1.5-2.5m in height, 1.5-2.5m spread ‘Olympiade’ is a medium-sized variety reaching nearly 2m in both height and spread. The brilliant ruby red hue of its funnel-shaped flowers is the chief attribute of this cultivar, though it has a further special characteristic – the foliage. The blooms get underway first in late spring and continue into summer, where the initially bright green foliage turns lime green and then to a greenish-yellow. Some leaves even show mottled variegation in the autumn. 13) W. florida ‘Wings Of Fire’ COMMON NAME(S): weigela ‘wings of fire’ FLOWERS: pink FLOWERING SEASON(S): spring / summer SIZE: 1-1.5m in height, 1-1.5m spread A top pick for foliage colour, ‘Wings of Fire’ starts the autumn exhibition way ahead of time. By early summer, its mid-green leaves are injected with colour as various tones of yellow and bronzy-red become increasingly prominent. The leaves turn orange and coppery-red by late summer and go out in autumn in tones of ‘fire’ that are mentioned in the cultivar’s name. Funnily enough, this intense cultivar bears flowers of a sweet pink colour and is just over 1m high and wide. 14) W. florida ‘Verweig’ COMMON NAME(S): weigela ‘monet’ FLOWERS: pink FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer / autumn SIZE: 0.5-1m in height, 0.5-1m spread ‘Verweig’ foliage does not undergo spectacular colour changes, but it is aesthetically pleasing the way it is. To begin with, the leaves have a dark green centre with thick and irregular cream edging. The edging often has pink flushes or is entirely pink and its blooms are also a bright pink and are borne in late spring into summer. It forms small little hummocks of a mere 60cm tall and wide. 15) W. florida ‘Minor Black’ COMMON NAME(S): weigela ‘minor black’ FLOWERS: pink FLOWERING SEASON(S): spring / summer SIZE: 0.5-1m in height, 0.5-1m spread Consisting almost entirely of a dark chocolatey-purple hue, the glossy foliage of ‘Minor Black’ is offset by an abundance of funnel-shaped blooms in an electric purplish-pink tone that appear from late spring. One way or another, this striking variety is an outlier among weigelas in its colour palette. It reaches up to 75cm in height and has a spread of about 1m.
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V. Opulus ‘Roseum’ - You Will Need To Grow This Sterile Cultivar From Existing Plants
IN THIS GUIDE Overview How To Grow V. opulus ‘Roseum’ Red Guelder Rose Care References Viburnum opulus ‘Roseum’ is a sterile cultivar with beautiful spring blooms that are not followed by the usual red berries. Like other guelder roses, it is prized not only for its snowball flowers, but also for its maple-like leaves, which turn red in autumn. The blooms open to a light green shade which fades to white and then sometimes ages with a slight pinky blush. The flowering heads are well-loved and often used in flower arrangements of cut flowers. Overview Botanical Name Viburnum opulus ‘Roseum’ Common Name(s) Red guelder rose Plant Type Shrub Native Area Europe, North Africa, Central Asia Hardiness Rating H6 Foliage Deciduous Flowers Dense clusters of creamy white flowers that are sterile When To Plant September to November When To Prune May to June Also known as ‘Red Guelder Rose’ or ‘Red Snowball Tree’, this sterile cultivar of V. opulus is a deciduous shrub. It can be used for informal hedgerows or screening, in a woodland garden scheme, or as a stand-alone specimen in a wide range of settings. How To Grow V. opulus ‘Roseum’ This is a sterile cultivar, so seeds will not form. It can be purchased as a young shrub from garden centres or plant nurseries and online. However, if someone you know has one of these shrubs in their garden, you could save money and make an eco-friendly choice by propagating a new plant by taking cuttings (more on this below). Planting Guidelines The best time to plant V. opulus ‘Roseum’ is in the autumn, between September and November, but you can also plant it in early spring. The great news is that these plants can work well in a wide range of settings, sunlight levels and soils, so there is quite a lot of flexibility about where you might place one. Once you have decided on a position, simply make a generous planting hole and place the shrub into it. Fill in the soil back around the base so that the plant sits at the same level it was at in its previous pot or location. Water it in well, then spread an organic mulch around the base, taking care not to mound the mulch around the base of the shrub. Red Guelder Rose Care This is a fantastic, unfussy and low-maintenance plant. The only thing to remember is that this can turn into a rather large shrub, up to around 3-4m in height and width, so make sure that you have space for it in your garden if you do not plan on pruning it heavily. Aspect & Light Viburnum opulus is a woodland plant and grows best in light, dappled shade, but this shrub will flower more abundantly in full sun, though it can also tolerate deeper shade. Soil Requirements This shrub can grow well in almost any soil type, as long as it is moderately fertile, humus-rich and does not become waterlogged or compacted. Moist but well-drained conditions are required. Mulching around the plant annually in spring can help keep the soil healthy and ensure good levels of organic matter in the soil. Container Growing It is possible to prune extensively and keep these relatively fast-growing shrubs smaller, which means you can grow these shrubs in pots. However, their fast rate of growth and larger natural size means that they may not be the best choice for container growing. You may like to consider a dwarf hydrangea instead, for similar flowers but a more controllable habit and form. Pruning V. opulus ‘Roseum’ is in RHS pruning group 8 and should not require extensive cutting back unless grown as part of a hedge or hedgerow.1 Light pruning (to remove dead, damaged or diseased material) should be undertaken immediately after flowering. However, while it does not need to be pruned much – this shrub can tolerate hard renovation pruning if required. Many gardeners choose to take out some branches to lift the plant and allow for decorative under-storey planting in a woodland border style scheme. “I grow a guelder rose in a quite narrow space and remove 2-3 of the oldest branches every year after flowering,” Colin Skelly, a Horticulturist and Consultant, explains. “This keeps the size relatively compact and allows underplanting to flourish around it.” Propagating You can propagate guelder roses from softwood or semi-hardwood cuttings. Softwood cuttings are taken in the spring and early summer and are soft, flexible stems of new growth which should root readily. Semi-ripe cuttings are taken in late summer or early autumn. Common Problems This is usually a very easy plant to grow and care for, with few incidences of serious problems or diseases. Although aphids and viburnum beetle may sometimes become a problem, these are usually remedied relatively easily in an organic garden – typically by attracting natural predators and creating a natural balance. References 1. Shrubs: pruning evergreens. (n.d.-b). Royal Horticultural Society. Retrieved March 27, 2023, from https://www.rhs.org.uk/plants/types/shrubs/evergreen-pruning-guide
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Important Rhododendron Growing Guidelines With Expert Katrina Clow
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Common Varieties How To Grow Rhododendron Rhododendron Care References Rhododendrons can come in many shapes and sizes and can be good choices for gardeners with acidic soil. While some rhododendrons are invasive and not the best choice for eco-friendly spaces, many can be good choices for UK gardens where the required growing conditions are readily available. We’ve collaborated with Katrina Clow, Hon. Secretary of The Scottish Rhododendron Society, to help advise our rhododendron growing tips. “There are so many and in such variety,” says Katrina, when asked why she is so passionate about growing rhododendrons. “They have stunning foliage and the flowers come in every colour you could imagine.” Rhododendron is a large genus with over 1,200 natural species – and many more cultivars besides.1 It is in the Ericaceae (heather) plant family.2 Overview Botanical Name Rhododendron Plant Type Shrub Native Area North America, Europe and Asia Hardiness Rating H5 Foliage Evergreen (mostly) Flowers Varied colourful flowers When To Plant October / March to April When To Prune After flowering Rhododendrons are often evergreen, but can also be deciduous. The centres of diversity are in Asia, though rhododendrons are also native to parts of North America and Europe.3 “Rhododendrons are mostly native to the Himalayas and were introduced to Britain in the 18th century, hybridising since then,” says Katrina. Rhododendrons are usually shrubs, though they can also be trees, and vary considerably in size from less than 1m in height and spread, to up to (more rarely) 30m tall. Most of the rhododendrons commonly grown in UK gardens are medium-sized to large shrubs, but there are also smaller options that are popular choices for container growing. “They love the west coast of Scotland as we get high rainfall and humidity,” explains Katrina. Common Varieties We asked Katrina about her favourite rhododendron varieties to grow. “This is a very difficult question, as there are so many,” she says. “When first growing rhododendrons, you are probably attracted to the most brightly coloured hybrids, but, gradually, the charm and beauty of species rhododendrons overtakes the glamour of hybrids. “They do take longer to flower but worth the wait. “Evergreen azaleas, yakushimanum hybrids, compact hybrids and tender fragrant rhododendrons are my favourite choices.” R. luteum “A particularly striking rhododendron for me is R. luteum with intense yellow flowers, often borne before the leaves form. It is one I associate more with sunnier positions too,” says Horticulturist Peter Lickorish. “However, this and some of the other species, including R. ponticum, are classified as non-native invasive species and must be managed carefully to make sure they do not spread beyond gardens. “In some woodland, rhododendron is so fast-growing that it stops light reaching tree seedlings and lower woodland plants.” Rhododendrons are often divided into spring flowering options, which flower up to the end of April, and later flowering varieties. R. barbatum Some common early flowering rhododendrons are: R. barbatum R. calophytum R. ‘Christmas Cheer’ R. ‘Cilpinense’ R. ‘Countess of Haddington’ R. dauricum ‘Mid-winter’ R. fulvum R. grande R. ‘Praecox’ R. ‘Ptarmigan’ R. arborescens Some common late-flowering rhododendrons are: R. arborescens R. ‘Corneille’ R. ‘Cynthia’ R. decorum R. ‘Dopey’ R. luteum R. occidentale R. ‘Polar Bear’ R. viscosum R. ‘Winsome’ These really are only a small fraction of the many options that you could consider. “Species rhododendrons may take several years to flower but they are definitely worth waiting for,” says Katrina. “Hybrids, in general, are tougher and will flower sooner.” How To Grow Rhododendron Rhododendrons should usually be planted in either October or March to April. Most rhododendrons are a good choice for a partially shaded spot, either below trees (though not in deep shade) or along a border in your garden. Larger options work well in a woodland garden. However, most species and cultivars will be able to cope with a brighter and sunnier position as long as they are sheltered from any winds that are cold and dry. Dwarf alpine species of rhododendron can usually tolerate full sun and will work well in a rock garden as long as the soil remains moist, whilst compact hybrids can be grown in containers. It is best to avoid planting rhododendrons in frost pockets or anywhere where they are exposed to the sun in the early morning. “They can be grown in woodland gardens but they do require an acidic growing medium, so gardens with chalk or very free-draining conditions will not favour them,” shares Katrina. As Katrina explains, most rhododendrons require an acidic soil or growing medium, with a pH of between 5-6. The soil should be moist yet free-draining and rich in organic matter. Rhododendron Care Soil Before planting a rhododendron, it is a good idea to spread a thick layer of acidic organic matter over the soil. You should also mix organic materials into the planting hole that you have created, blending it well with the excavated soil, before firming it back in around the shrub. Soil that is not acidic will have to be amended if you want to grow rhododendrons. However, it is generally best to plant for your soil type and to grow acid-loving plants in containers if you do wish to grow them, as Garden Designer Kate Gould explains: “The great thing about growing in pots is that you can control your soil. “Say you were gardening on chalk and you wanted to grow a rhododendron, you could do so in a pot because you could fill it with acidic soil.” If you are growing rhododendron in containers, make sure that you use an ericaceous, peat-free potting mix to fill your pots. Peat-free mixes can work well for rhododendrons, but to avoid compaction issues, it is best to repot every other year into a fresh potting mix. Watering Rhododendrons have fairly high water needs and will tend to grow best where there is high natural rainfall and will grow less successfully in more arid areas. Make sure that you water regularly during dry periods, especially when growing in containers. “Flower buds begin developing in late summer, so moisture is particularly important – and sometimes in short supply – at this time,” says Peter Lickorish. “Keep plants moist, but not waterlogged,” Katrina simply states. Try to use rainwater rather than tap water to water your rhododendrons whenever possible. In hard water districts, tap water can be too alkaline and can reduce the acidity of the soil. Feeding & Fertilising Renew the acidic mulch around your rhododendron each spring, making sure that the soil or medium below is moist before doing so. It can also be beneficial to change the top 5cm of the growing medium when growing your plants in containers each winter and to feed the rhododendron over the summer months with an organic liquid feed. “Often if the soil is not acidic enough for their niche preference, leaves will turn yellow between the veins as they lack iron,” adds Peter Lickorish. “Liquid feeds with an iron content can reduce this damage.” Propagation Propagating rhododendrons is not an easy job for novice gardeners. However, it is certainly possible to obtain new plants from those you already grow. The most important thing to understand before you begin is that only some species of rhododendron will come true when grown from seed. Named cultivars have to be propagated by means of semi-ripe cuttings or through more complex methods like grafting or layering. Taking rhododendron cuttings is typically the easiest propagation method. Cuttings are taken from the current year’s stems, in late summer or autumn, once the bud has developed fully. The cuttings should be taken with a heel and the stem should be wounded slightly to encourage it to take root. Cuttings of evergreen rhododendrons can also be taken in July or August. Deciduous rhododendrons are more difficult to propagate from cuttings, which is why this is usually only done in a commercial setting. For species rhododendron which will come true from seed, seeds should be sown in January indoors, with the seeds left uncovered on the surface of the growing medium. These pots should be placed inside a heated propagator. Pruning Pruning is not usually required for rhododendrons. You may simply prune these shrubs to remove dead, damaged or diseased material and can deadhead spend flowers to improve the shrub’s appearance if you want to. “Deadhead to get good flowers the following year if you want to improve your rhododendron shrubs,” shares Katrina. You can also prune back many rhododendrons to restrict their size after flowering. Rough-barked rhododendrons will tend to respond better to hard pruning than smooth-barked types. “Pruning too late, such as in the autumn, is likely to significantly reduce flowering the following year,” according to Peter Lickorish. “Often it is preferable to prune in early summer, as long as flowering has finished, and reduce a third of the longer stems each year to restore an overgrown plant back to manageable size. “Aim to prune to a bud if possible. If you do prune back harder, be sure to mulch and water well afterwards to ensure strong new growth.” Common Problems Many problems you may experience with a rhododendron shrub are likely to be due to environmental or care issues rather than pests or diseases. For example, non-flowering shrubs may not produce blooms because of under-watering or improper pruning. Leaf drop may also be caused by a lack of water, waterlogging, extreme exposure to cold or another environmental issue. Nutrient deficiencies can cause issues like the yellowing of leaves. However, common pests and diseases can also affect rhododendrons. Common pests include vine weevils (especially when the shrubs are container-grown), leaf-hoppers and scale insects. Some rhododendron diseases include azalea gall, bud blast and honey fungus. Companion Planting “Anything you like that looks comfortable and enjoys the same conditions as your rhododendrons can be planted with them,” says Katrina, when discussing what to grow with rhododendrons. Some of her favourite plants to grow alongside them include: Snowdrops Daffodils Species tulips Erythroniums Trilliums Primroses Meconopsis Lilies Hostas Small ferns Conifers “Shrubs that like ericaceous conditions, such as enkianthus or kalmia, and trees which create light shade, like magnolias, will add structure to your planting,” Katrina adds. “There are many beautiful Rowan cultivars with different coloured berries and autumn leaf colour which can also work wonderfully. “I also like to add hydrangeas for later flowers.” References 1. About Rhododendrons. (n.d.-b). Rhododendron Species Botanical Garden. Retrieved March 23, 2023, from https://rhodygarden.org/our-plants/rhododendrons/about-rhododendrons/ 2. Rhododendron. (n.d.). University of Bergen. Retrieved March 23, 2023, from https://www.uib.no/en/universitygardens/135136/rhododendron 3. Rhododendron. (n.d.-b). Global Conservation Consortia. Retrieved March 23, 2023, from https://www.globalconservationconsortia.org/gcc/rhododendron/
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How To Grow Potted Willow (And Why Many Salix Are Not Suited To Containers)
IN THIS GUIDE Can You Grow Salix In Pots? Choosing Willow Varieties For Pots Choosing Containers For Salix Potted Willow Compost Requirements Potting Up Salix Potted Willow Care References Salix species, which we commonly call willows, sallows or osiers, are a diverse range of beautiful trees and shrubs with varied sizes and forms. Many can be coppiced or pollarded in order to provide a yield of willow ‘whips’ for a range of uses, whilst some can also be trained to create beautiful fences or other living willow structures. If you are drawn to the beauty or utility of the salix species but can’t grow them in the soil where you live or have limited space, you might be wondering whether you can grow any of them in pots. Difficulty Hard Equipment Required Pots or containers, suitable compost mix, water, salix Can You Grow Salix In Pots? The answer is a little more complex than a simple yes or no. Salix is a genus with around 400 different species, many of which can be grown in UK gardens.1 In general, willows are not necessarily the easiest plants to grow in containers, but that does not mean that there you cannot attempt to grow some salix varieties in this way. When looking at whether or not we can grow any plant in containers, we need to look at the size to which they will grow, the form of their root systems and their water requirements. First, let’s take a look at their size. Salixes can differ extremely in the size to which they will eventually grow. Some willows will grow into very large standard trees, while others will remain relatively compact or grow with a more shrubby, multi-stemmed form. Larger willow trees will not be good choices for container growing at all, but some smaller standard trees or extremely compact weeping forms can potentially be grown in containers. Shrub willows can also be an option for containers, especially when coppiced on a regular basis. However, even the types that remain compact in form and those that can be regularly cut back hard to keep them contained can be challenging to grow in containers. The first reason for this is that many willows tend to have extensive root systems that can extend into a large area below the soil. Constricting their roots can put a strain on these plants and may lead to issues when growing them in containers. Another reason is that willows often have high water needs. Even those that are small enough to grow in containers do need to be well watered throughout the growing season and it can be challenging to meet these water needs when they are grown in pots. This is not to say that it cannot be done with some varieties, but it is important to note that providing the correct care will be essential. Choosing Willow Varieties For Pots When choosing a salix for a container, it is important to understand the needs and characteristics of the specific type and variety that you wish to grow. As mentioned above, many willows are completely unsuited to container cultivation. Some that can be grown in containers are: Kilmarnock willow (S. caprea) Flamingo willow (S. integra ‘Hakuro Nishiki’) Swiss willow (S. helvetica) Woolly willow (S. lanata) Willow ‘Boydii’ (S. ‘Boydii’) “You will normally find that Salix varieties suitable for containers have been top-grafted, which is a cultivation technique where a long single-stem rootstock is cut at a desired height (typically around 1m) and a sion (cutting) is attached,” shares Horticultural Consultant Dan Ori. “The rootstock will control the vigour of the plant making it achievable to successfully grow a species like Salix caprea in a container.” Choosing Containers For Salix When choosing a container for a salix tree or shrub, it is important to select a pot that is as large as possible to accommodate the variety you have chosen. Make sure that it is heavy and sturdy enough to support a small tree or shrub and that it will not blow over in windy conditions. Willows typically need free-draining conditions but still require the soil to remain consistently moist through the growing season. So, make sure that the container does not lose moisture too quickly, but also that excess water can drain away freely at the base. Potted Willow Compost Requirements A mix of two parts soil-based compost (John Innes No 3 or equivalent) and one-part peat-free multipurpose compost is ideal when growing salix in containers. Remember that any mix that you choose must be reasonably free-draining but still retain sufficient moisture. The mix should also be reasonably rich in organic matter to provide fertility for your salix plant. Potting Up Salix Salixes can be purchased as bare-root specimens or as pot-grown plants. Typically, dwarf varieties are purchased in pots. As soon as these are purchased and reach your home, you should be sure to pot them up into their long-term containers by following the steps below. Firstly, make sure that you water the plant well. Prepare the new container, ensuring that it is large enough to accommodate the existing root system of the plant. Place a little of the growing medium at the base of this new container. Remove the plant from the pot it came in and position it in the new container on top of the growing medium you have placed there. Make sure that once the rest of the pot is filled, the salix will sit at the same depth as it sat at in its previous pot. Next, add more of the growing medium around the sides of the existing root system and firm this into place gently, making sure that you do not compact the medium too much, taking care to avoid the creation of air pockets. Finally, water in the salix; watering deeply whilst ensuring that excess water can drain away freely. Consider adding a moisture-retaining mulch of homemade compost, wood chip or other organic matter around the top of the container, but make sure not to mound this around the trunk at the base of the plant. Potted Willow Care Place your container in a location with full sun. Keep your salix well watered during the growing season, making sure that the medium does not dry out, but also making sure that the conditions do not become waterlogged. Pruning will depend on which variety you are growing. In general, only light maintenance pruning is required for tree types, but some shrubby types can be cut back harder on occasion to promote the growth of decorative stems. Look out for pests like aphids, caterpillars, willow leaf beetles and sawflies, and be aware of fungal diseases. Pot up your salix into a slightly larger container with a new growing medium every 2-3 years, especially when growing a standard tree type. References 1. Harris, S. (n.d.-c). Salix species. Oxford University Plants. Retrieved March 27, 2023, from https://herbaria.plants.ox.ac.uk/bol/plants400/Profiles/st/Salix
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Light Pruning Is Possible On Mature Willows; Pollarding Schemes Are More Complicated
IN THIS GUIDE Do Willow Trees Need To Be Pruned? When To Prune Salix How To Prune Willows Small Trees Mature Trees Coppicing, Pollarding Or Stooling References Plants in the Salix genus, commonly called ‘Willows’, are deciduous trees that can often grow well in our temperate climate. Willows can be great choices for many UK gardens, but it is important to understand how to care for them correctly – and pruning is one important area to consider. Difficulty Easy Equipment Required Secateurs, pruning shears, a saw When To Prune Winter or early spring Do Willow Trees Need To Be Pruned? Many mature willow trees fall into RHS Pruning Group 1 and do not require much pruning at all, as they naturally retain a well-shaped framework and form.1 There is a wide variety of different willows that grow in UK gardens in a range of forms and sizes. Willow species and cultivars can be extremely large trees or relatively small shrubs, with a range of sizes in between. So, when growing willow in its natural form, it is important to choose one suited to the size of your space. It can be challenging to keep a mature willow tree in check and you cannot really make major changes to the structure and size of a mature standard willow tree. “You may find it hard to find a professional who will want to undertake subtle pruning of large willow trees because the branches can snap easily,” shares Master Horticulturist Dan Ori. “If you undertake pruning never climb a tree or rest a ladder against its branches. My best advice for a large tree is to pick the right species for the spot, prune out poor growth when the tree is young, and for anything else, get a tree surgeon in. “Remember to be realistic about what can be pruned due to the snapping tendency of its branches.” A little light pruning is possible on mature trees, but it is generally best to keep this to a minimum, whilst some pruning may be undertaken to shape a young willow while it is still small. However, things get a little more complicated when we look at willows that are grown for coppice or pollarding schemes. A number of willows are not grown as standard trees with a single trunk but are instead cut back more severely, in order to encourage the formation of thin whips that can be used in a wide range of ways. When willows are grown in a pollarding type system, they are cut back hard on a regular basis every 3-4 years depending on the species chosen, the yields desired and what they are to be used for. “Coppicing is not common and it is not suitable for some willow types,” says Dan. “Coppicing is taking the tree down to a stump allowing new stems to grow from it. Some people will mistakenly refer to pollarding as coppicing due to the similar approach of cutting back hard.” Another thing to consider is that certain varieties of willow can also be trained to form structures or barriers, which will require more pruning. When To Prune Salix Willows can bleed sap when pruned during the growing season. Therefore, it is best to prune in the late winter or in early spring, either while they are still dormant or just as new growth emerges. Initial shaping and maintenance pruning on standard willow trees is generally carried out during the dormant phase and many species are also coppiced during this time. However, varieties of willow grown for colourful stems are typically pruned in early spring, just as new growth begins to emerge. The only time when a little pruning may be carried out on salix species in summer is when they are being grown as a living hedge or have been trained into another structure. In such cases, some summer pruning may be required in addition to winter pruning to keep the shape of the structures. How To Prune Willows While many willow trees won’t need much pruning at all, it is important to consider the specific salix you are growing and to make sure that you adopt the right approach for the variety, stage of growth and what you are aiming to achieve. Small Trees When shaping a young willow tree to become a standard tree, you will typically select a central leader showing strong upright growth and make sure that you prune out any competing stems. Any damaged branches should be removed, along with those that grow upwards instead of outwards or those which are overcrowded. The aim is to create a clear, evenly-spaced structure of well-placed branches. Mature Trees Mature willow trees can and should largely be left to their own devices where possible. However, it is a good idea to check over the tree in winter and to undertake simple light maintenance pruning by removing any branches that are dead, damaged or diseased and those that are rubbing against one another. Where, for aesthetic reasons, you wish to shorten branches, you can do so sparingly, as long as you always cut just above a twig or leaf bud. Weeping willow forms are particularly popular in many gardens. Weeping branches can sometimes reach right down to the ground, so you may wish to shorten these for practical or aesthetic ones. You can shorten these as required by, again, cutting just above a leaf bud. Coppicing, Pollarding Or Stooling A number of salix species are ideal for use within a coppicing or pollarding scheme and can often respond well to being cut back hard. Coppicing and pollarding are techniques often used when pruning willows to encourage the formation of new growth on multiple stems. We may wish to undertake this form of pruning in order to obtain thin willow branches, also known as whips, for use in basketry or other crafts. Some shrub willows, grown for winter stem colour, are also coppiced in order to encourage the formation of new, more colourful stems for ornamental appeal in a garden. Coppicing involves cutting back close to the ground, whilst pollarding involves cutting off branches to create whippy growth at a certain height above the ground. When coppicing, all the stems of the tree are simply cut back to within 5-7.5cm of the ground. However, pollarding allows you to cut the stubs of the previous year at your desired height. When willow trees are coppiced or stooled regularly, they should quickly spring into new growth. References 1. Shrubs and trees: light pruning. (n.d.-d). Royal Horticultural Society. Retrieved March 27, 2023, from https://www.rhs.org.uk/plants/types/trees/trees-shrubs-light-pruning
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Extend The Flowering Season Of Your Cosmos By Deadheading Spent Blooms
IN THIS GUIDE Do You Need To Deadhead Cosmos? When To Deadhead Cosmos How To Deadhead Cosmos Cosmos are attractive flowering plants that are mostly grown as annuals and used to bring a splash of cheerful colour to a garden. C. bipinnatus are the most common types and can bloom over a long period of time, potentially from May right through to October, and bring plenty of pollinators to your garden. “Cosmos flowers best when day lengths are shorter; in the UK with cold springs this generally means from late summer into autumn,” shares Master Horticulturist Roy Nicol. To make sure that you can enjoy these cosmos blooms in your garden for as long as possible, you have to ensure that you care for your plants correctly. One job not to neglect when growing cosmos is deadheading. Difficulty Easy Equipment Required Secateurs or gardening shears When To Deadhead June to September Do You Need To Deadhead Cosmos? It is not essential to deadhead many of the flowering plants that you grow in your garden, but with some, cosmos included, it really can be a good idea. Deadheading cosmos plants is a good idea because if you do not deadhead after the first flush of blooms begins to fade, the plants will focus their attention on producing seeds rather than on producing more flowers. This means that if you do not deadhead cosmos, this can significantly reduce the number of blooms you can expect – and curtail the length of time for which these annuals can be in bloom. “The fading blooms of old flowers also detract from the display as they don’t look nearly as good as the newer flowers,” adds Roy. However, one thing to note is that you might harvest your flowers before it becomes necessary to deadhead them. Cosmos make wonderful cut flowers for use in your home, so you may cut the flowering stems for use in this way before the flowers begin to fade, which is when you would usually think about deadheading. Since harvesting cosmos for cut flowers will remove the flowers and prevent the plants from flowering in exactly the same way, deadheading will not be required afterwards. When To Deadhead Cosmos If you are taking the route of cut flowers, then you can simply take flowers when you want them, cutting them with the amount of stem that you desire or require for your displays. Cosmos can flower from May or June, so if you do not harvest these blooms to use as cut flowers, those first flowers will begin to die back. You can, if you wish, simply nip off the faded flowers one by one as they fade. However, with cosmos, especially if you are growing a lot of them in a bed or border, it can be easier to wait until almost all of the flowers on a particular plant have faded. Then, you can cut back the whole of the area all at once rather than focussing on deadheading particular blooms individually. How To Deadhead Cosmos If you are only growing a few cosmos, you can deadhead by simply nipping (with a finger and thumb) or snipping off (with secateurs or gardening scissors) the faded flowering head and the top of the stem down to the next set of leaves. However, in an area where a lot of cosmos are grown in a drift, you might also decide on a simpler, less time-consuming approach. Once the flowers in an area have mostly faded, you can take a pair of shears and cut off the faded flowers, also trimming back the tops of all your plants. Cutting back the foliage as well as simply removing the blooms can promote bushier growth and encourage an abundant crop of new flowers. Whichever method you choose, you can expect to see the next flush of blooms within a couple of weeks.
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