Growing
Himalayan Balsam Is Highly Invasive And Spreading Fast: How To Halt Its Spread
IN THIS GUIDE About Himalayan Balsam Identifying Himalayan Balsam Is Himalayan Balsam Invasive? How Do These Plants Disperse Their Seeds? How To Control Himalayan Balsam Plant Disposal Composting Himalayan Balsam References Himalayan Balsam is very robust and pretty, but it is just as undesirable. Of montane origin, this tough annual rapidly grows to overhead height. It bears a profusion of unusual and undeniably lovely bright pink flowers that are set off by light green foliage on a well-branched form. Unfortunately, it is an aggressive alien species that is highly invasive throughout Europe. About Himalayan Balsam Himalayan Balsam, formally known as Impatiens glandulifera, is a very pretty and unusual flowering plant originating in the Kashmiri Himalayas north of Pakistan and India.1 Unfortunately, it is an aggressive species that can outcompete native ones and becomes invasive in temperate, tundra and similar climatic zones. Though it is an annual, it is vigorous and propagates exceptionally efficiently, as its nectar draws swarms of bees which, in turn, cross-pollinate the flowers very effectively. It also produces equally copious amounts of seeds, which are dispersed by seedpod explosions (ballochory). A large number of seeds are then scattered around each mature plant, so it is little wonder that Himalayan Balsam steadily colonises good-sized swaths of the ground by forming monoculture thickets. This species itself does not need much sunlight, but because of its own height and its survival strategy of forming dense thickets, it starves other shorter native species of much-needed sunlight, gradually eliminating them. It is also indifferent to the soil, growing in poor as well as rich soils, and light as well as heavy soils, with about equal facility. Identifying Himalayan Balsam It is not for nothing that Himalayan Balsam is often called ‘Policeman’s Helmet’, as the flower’s shape really does bring to mind a bobby’s hat, except for the fact that its colour varies from pale pink through to white. This uncommon flower is somewhat like a flared tube with two flaps. The flowers are borne on racemes and occur in profusion in the summer and autumn on a tall, well-branched shrub that reaches up to 2-3m tall. The flowers emit a strong, sickly-sweet scent. If you see such a flowering plant and further notice that it has light, bright green leaves that are elongated and lanceolate with visible veining and are borne on stems that have a reddish tone, it is very likely Himalayan Balsam. You would encounter Himalayan Balsam on riverbanks, alongside watercourses, near rubbish tips and in waste ground. It also grows on forest and woodland edges, in fields and meadows and around ditches. Is Himalayan Balsam Invasive? Yes. In fact, it has been flagged by the United Kingdom’s Department for Environment, Food & Rural Affairs and the Animal and Plant Health Agency since 2nd August 2017 as a non-native invasive plant species in England and Wales.2 It also appears in the EU Regulation on Invasive Alien Species which remains applicable to the United Kingdom.3 Efforts to halt its spread are underway in several regions of the country and it is often referred to as a weed. “The classification of Himalayan Balsam as an invasive non-native plant species means it must not be planted in the wild and if identified on a homeowner’s land it must be stopped from spreading to neighbouring land,” shares Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly.4 How Do These Plants Disperse Their Seeds? They disperse their seeds by a rather dramatic method of seed capsule explosion called ballochory.5 The pretty flowers develop into seedpods or capsules in autumn. Over time, as moisture from a capsule evaporates, it keeps deforming and eventually explodes noisily, scattering its seeds nearby and even up to 7m metres away. Drying capsules can also explode if they are physically disturbed, sometimes merely touched, by wildlife. Unfortunately, these cunning colonisers also have a secondary method of seed dispersal! As mentioned, Himalayan Balsam plants are fond of growing by riverbanks and watercourses. When such riverine members’ seedpods explode, many seeds fall into the waterway and the flowing water then carries the seeds far and wide. The seeds that are subsequently deposited on the ground then grow into new plants a great distance from the original. This method of seed dispersal is known as hydrochory.6 How To Control Himalayan Balsam From a professional and scientific standpoint, Himalayan Balsam is best controlled systemically by reducing the nutrient-richness of riparian areas and the ground around those waterways that have been invaded by this invasive plant. Doing so affords native species a better chance to compete. Some local plants are able to gut it out in poorer soils a little better than Himalayan Balsam, whereas the latter positively flourish in rich soils near waterways. In the United Kingdom, various regional conservation organisations schedule balsam bashing events, usually in June.7 A group of volunteers walks through areas known to be colonised by the plant, uprooting, cutting and otherwise destroying its stands. Out in the open, strimming is also used and it too is an effective method of control. It is possibly the most efficient method to deal with dense thickets before the plants have started to set seed. Plants should be cut off at the base of the stem. As an individual gardener, your best bets are to uproot the plants and use particular kinds of weedkillers. Both the RHS and the Centre for Ecology & Hydrology recommend uprooting and cutting as the primary methods of effective control.8 The downside to cutting any part of the plant is that if this is done above the first node on the stem, especially before June, nothing will be achieved, as the plant’s strong roots will ensure its survival. All that will happen is that the plant will become bushy. Pulling up these plants, preferably as early as possible in the season, is a better method of control than cutting it. If you pull them up after they have started forming seed capsules, watch out for inadvertent seed dispersal! Lay the uprooted plants on plastic sheets. I. glandulifera can also be controlled by chemical means. Use contact weedkillers on them before they form seed capsules, remembering that the earlier this is done, the better. Recent botanical research has uncovered a very effective and targeted biological control for Himalayan Balsam, a rust fungus named Puccinia komarovii var. glanduliferae.9 This is a Himalayan rust fungus that infects and kills Himalayan Balsam with near-total specificity. It has been discovered and even tested and was subsequently found to attack a few other Balsam impatiens, though it does not affect Western ornamental impatiens, the popular bedding plants. Research is ongoing to identify and isolate a strain of this rust fungus that will be specific exclusively to I. glandulifera. Plant Disposal Burning I. glandulifera is an effective method of halting its spread and destroying it, but burning plants and plant material is subject to somewhat differing regulations in England and Wales, Scotland, and Northern Ireland. Generally, you are required to notify appropriate local authorities in advance of burning plant material, ensure that the burning does not cause pollution or nuisance and that only white smoke, not black, is produced. I’d suggest that before burning any plant material, you acquaint yourself with the local rules and regulations by paying a visit to the website of your district council or environmental office. Composting Himalayan Balsam You might be able to compost your Himalayan Balsam depending on the stage of the plant’s lifecycle. As it is an annual, there is nothing to fear from its roots and you can just let them dry out in the sun. The concern is that its seedpods and seeds may get into the compost heap. The tough seeds may well germinate in the compost or wait until the compost is used, as seeds are viable for around 18-24 months. Either way, a compost of this kind would facilitate the spread of this invasive plant. Keeping these facts in mind, you may compost Himalayan Balsam at any stage of its lifecycle up until the time that buds have started to flower. If any flowers of a plant have withered, do not compost them. You never know if you will be adding seedpods and seeds to your compost. You can search for seedpods and remove them or compost only the foliage, but that would hardly be worth the time and effort. Considering how aggressive and invasive the plant is and the problems that are being faced in trying to limit its spread, I’d suggest that you play it safe and avoid composting Himalayan Balsam. Also, be aware that many localities prohibit the dumping of this and other similar plants into rubbish skips. References 1. Himalayan balsam. (n.d.). The Wildlife Trusts. Retrieved March 17, 2023, from https://www.wildlifetrusts.org/wildlife-explorer/wildflowers/himalayan-balsam 2. Himalayan balsam. (n.d.-b). Public Information on Invasive Species in Wales. Retrieved March 17, 2023, from https://www.gov.wales/sites/default/files/publications/2022-03/himalayan-balsam-public-information-controlling-invasive-species-wales.pdf 3. Invasive alien species. (n.d.). European Commission: Environment. Retrieved March 17, 2023, from https://environment.ec.europa.eu/topics/nature-and-biodiversity/invasive-alien-species_en 4. How to stop invasive non-native plants from spreading. (2022, February 2). GOV.UK. Retrieved June 13, 2023, from https://www.gov.uk/guidance/prevent-the-spread-of-harmful-invasive-and-non-native-plants#:~:text=Types%20of%20invasive%20non%2Dnative%20plants,-The%20most%20commonly&text=Giant%20hogweed,New%20Zealand%20pygmyweed 5. Seed dispersal: 5 ways trees spread seeds. (2019, August 23). Woodland Trust. Retrieved March 17, 2023, from https://www.woodlandtrust.org.uk/blog/2019/08/seed-dispersal/ 6. Craft, C. (2016). Hydrochory. Science Direct, 3–22. https://doi.org/10.1016/b978-0-12-407232-9.00001-4 7. The Big Balsam Bash 2022. (2022, April 14). Groundwork. Retrieved March 17, 2023, from https://www.groundwork.org.uk/bigbalsambash2022/ 8. Himalayan Balsam. (n.d.). Peak District: Gov. Retrieved March 17, 2023, from https://www.peakdistrict.gov.uk/__data/assets/pdf_file/0019/48016/himalayan_balsam_control.pdf 9. Tanner, R., Ellison, C., Kassai-Jáger, G., Varia, S., Djeddour, S., Singh, M., Csiszár, Á., Csontos, P., Kiss, L., & Evans, H. C. (2015). Puccinia komarovii var. glanduliferae var. nov.: a fungal agent for the biological control of Himalayan balsam (Impatiens glandulifera). European Journal of Plant Pathology, 141(2), 247–266. https://doi.org/10.1007/s10658-014-0539-x
Learn more
10 Wonderful White Flowering Trees For Blockbuster Garden Displays
IN THIS GUIDE 1) Robinia pseudoacacia 2) Aesculus californica 3) Crataegus monogyna 4) Catalpa bignonioides 5) Syringa reticulata 6) Cornus kousa 7) Malus sylvestris 8) Lagerstroemia ‘Natchez’ 9) Cercis canadensis f. alba ‘Royal White’ 10) Prunus × yedoensis ‘Somei-Yoshino’ References Trees with white flowers are an unmistakable focal point of any garden. Depending on the type of tree and its surroundings, it can evoke emotions of elegance, drama or romance. It’s no surprise then, that by planting one of the following trees from the list of recommendations I’ve compiled, you can bring some blockbuster beauty into your garden. When selecting a tree, be mindful of its dimensions when mature, its environmental requirements and how it will integrate with your existing display. If you get these criteria right, you are bound to have a magnificent head-turner in your space. 1) Robinia pseudoacacia COMMON NAME(S): black locust / false acacia HARDINESS RATING: H6 FLOWERING SEASON(S): spring / summer EXPECTED SIZE: 20-30m in height, 10-20m spread Despite the unpleasant connotations of its name, the Black Locust tree is a beauty to behold. A native of North America, it has been naturalised in the UK for almost 4 centuries and copes well with our temperate climate, bringing stately grace through its clusters of white flowers in May and June, which are a magnet to bees.1 Later, in autumn, its seed pods will also draw in hummingbirds. It can grow to anywhere between 10-30m tall, though vigorous pruning will keep it in check if need be. However, it does boast a prodigious growth rate, leading some to classify it as a weed outside of its home environment. You should also be aware that its branches can bear sharp bracts that are capable of tearing clothes. “This tree has a tendency to die back and drop branches, so it is best to not plant it near a path or seating area,” shares Horticultural Consultant Dan Ori. 2) Aesculus californica COMMON NAME(S): california buckeye HARDINESS RATING: H6 FLOWERING SEASON(S): spring / summer EXPECTED SIZE: 8-12m in height, 10-18m spread This medium-sized tree shouldn’t exceed more than 12m in height and can resemble a shrub due to its growth habits. As such, it’s the perfect choice for slightly smaller spots which are simply in need of filling out. The flowers, which burst forth every spring and last all the way through summer, are robust conical creations that are largely white in colour, but with yellow throats that turn pink later in the season. California Buckeye trees also bear conkers and fruit. 3) Crataegus monogyna COMMON NAME(S): common hawthorn / hedgerow thorn HARDINESS RATING: H7 FLOWERING SEASON(S): spring EXPECTED SIZE: 4-8m in height, 4-8m spread Hawthorns are another medium-sized specimen, with the common hawthorn reaching a slightly smaller height than the Californian Buckeye. Their flowers are daintier in their dimensions, with a profusion of small white blossoms appearing in spring and giving way to red berries in the summertime. These splashes of colour, alongside the fact that the foliage on a Hawthorn tree often begins life as a reddish-brown before maturing to green, make it ideal for adding extra tones to your garden’s palette. Like the Black Locust, it can also have spiny branches, so take care when handling it or passing nearby, and be on the lookout for signs of powdery mildew since Hawthorns are highly susceptible to this disease. 4) Catalpa bignonioides COMMON NAME(S): indian bean tree / catawba HARDINESS RATING: H6 FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer EXPECTED SIZE: 10-18m in height, 6-12m spread The Indian Bean Tree goes by many names, including the common Catalpa and the Southern Cigar tree. Whatever you call it, it’s an impressive specimen which can grow nearly as wide as its height – up to almost 20m at full maturity in optimum conditions. The tree is remarkable for its heart-shaped foliage and its trumpet-like blooms, which won’t blossom for the first six or seven years after planting, but should appear regularly thereafter. They’re mostly white but do have yellow and pink ornamental colourings at their epicentre. As they like to spread their limbs and because the petals and seedpods are prone to falling to the ground, it is advisable to plant them away from buildings and walkways. 5) Syringa reticulata COMMON NAME(S): japanese tree lilac HARDINESS RATING: H7 FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer EXPECTED SIZE: 6-8m in height, 4-6m spread One tree which is good for lining pathways is the Japanese Tree Lilac. In my experience, this tree never exceeds 10m in height, but it’s an obedient creature and can be easily kept in line if you wish to restrict its growth further. It also provides good density, making it an ideal screening option. The panicles of soft, feathery flowers appear in May and ooze an exquisite aroma, which is another string to its bow. These blossoms are complemented by the dark green foliage behind them which, along with its attractive bark and olive tree-like dimensions, makes it a highly sought-after specimen. 6) Cornus kousa COMMON NAME(S): kousa / Szechuan strawberry HARDINESS RATING: H6 FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer EXPECTED SIZE: 4-8m in height, 4-8m spread Kousa Dogwood is another tree of relatively modest dimensions, rarely surpassing 10m in height. It also has eye-catching architecture, with its slender trunk suddenly giving way to a profusion of tangled branches, making it resemble a bouquet of flowers or a collection of balloons. Its aesthetic qualities are at their most powerful in the summer months when the delicate flowerheads, composed of interestingly shaped white petals, cover its foliage at will. It is disease resistant and hardy in most climates but, like others on this list, can be susceptible to powdery mildew. 7) Malus sylvestris COMMON NAME(S): crab apple / wild crab HARDINESS RATING: H6 FLOWERING SEASON(S): spring EXPECTED SIZE: 8-12m in height, 4-8m spread Crab apples are a diverse species, with cultivars available in a range of sizes and shades. That means those gardeners in search of one which produces white flowers should have no trouble in satisfying their requirements, regardless of the space available to them. For the best results, select one which doesn’t succumb to disease easily. Whichever specific Crab apple you opt for, you’ll be richly rewarded with a sturdy tree that offers an intriguing triangular shape and a strong blooming habit. As an added bonus, it also produces fruit which lasts through the year up to winter and will be a welcome source of sustenance for birds once the weather turns. 8) Lagerstroemia ‘Natchez’ COMMON NAME(S): Natchez crape HARDINESS RATING: H3 FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer / autumn EXPECTED SIZE: 4-8m in height, 4-8m spread This Lagerstroemia was specifically engineered to be more resistant to powdery mildew in the US, with its name a nod to the indigenous tribes in the area of its provenance.2 It will handle UK temperatures just fine, but be aware that it may not flower strongly in weaker summers. Having said that, even a barren blooming season is not a cause for despair with a Natchez Crape. That’s because it’s lauded for its fine architectural shape, textured bark and, best of all, the stunning collage of colours it runs through in the autumn months. If the flowers blossom, so be it, but they’re not the be-all and end-all for this smaller option. 9) Cercis canadensis f. alba ‘Royal White’ COMMON NAME(S): white-flowered eastern redbud ‘royal white’ HARDINESS RATING: H5 FLOWERING SEASON(S): spring EXPECTED SIZE: 4-8m in height, 4-8m spread Another option on the smaller side, the ‘Royal White’ Redbud doesn’t usually grow past 8m, though it might reach that height in a surprisingly short time due to its vigorous growth habit. Its pleasing architectural shape is reminiscent of a vase, which is apt because of the gorgeousness of the flowers it bears. Interestingly, ‘Royal White’ Redbuds don’t bear flowers and foliage at the same time. This means that when in bloom, its delicate white blossoms will completely cover its spindly branches, giving it a truly unique appearance. Later, when these have faded, they’ll be replaced by heart-shaped leaves that are just as easy on the eyes. 10) Prunus × yedoensis ‘Somei-Yoshino’ COMMON NAME(S): Yoshino cherry / Japanese flowering cherry HARDINESS RATING: H6 FLOWERING SEASON(S): spring EXPECTED SIZE: 5-10m in height, 5-10m spread Yoshino is a species of Japanese Cherry Blossom which is everything you could want and more in a tree of this kind. It’s a knockout addition to any garden, with its foliage starting life with red hues that soften to green, whilst its flowers appear before many of its counterparts in March or April. The subtle almond fragrance they exude completes the package. Yoshino Cherry Trees normally grow to about 10m in height and spread and they aren’t fussy about the type of soil you give them or the diseases which try to bring them down. They do, however, demand at least 6-8 hours of sunlight a day, so make sure your specimen is planted in an appropriate location. References 1. Robinia pseudoacacia. (n.d.). Kew Royal Botanic Gardens. Retrieved March 27, 2023, from https://powo.science.kew.org/taxon/urn:lsid:ipni.org:names:30034699-2 2. Gilman, E., & Watson, D. (1993, November). Lagerstroemia x ‘Natchez.’ US Forest Service. Retrieved March 27, 2023, from https://hort.ifas.ufl.edu/database/documents/pdf/tree_fact_sheets/lagxe.pdf
Learn more
20 Exceptional Evergreen Climbers With Options For Every Garden
IN THIS GUIDE 1) Akebia quinata 2) Ceanothus americanus 3) Clematis armandii 4) C. cirrhosa 5) Cotoneaster 6) Euonymus fortunei 7) Garrya elliptica 8) Hedera colchica 9) H. helix 10) Holboellia latifolia 11) Hydrangea seemannii 12) Lonicera henryi var. subcoriacea 13) L. japonica 14) Muehlenbeckia complexa 15) Passiflora caerulea 16) Pileostegia viburnoides 17) Pyracantha 18) Solanum crispum 19) Stauntonia hexaphylla 20) Trachelospermum jasminoides References If you are looking for an evergreen climber for your garden then look no further, because I’ve compiled a list of 20 great options for you to consider. While not every option will necessarily suit every garden, situation and aspect, you should find something that will suit your needs below. 1) Akebia quinata COMMON NAME(S): chocolate vine / akebia HARDINESS RATING: H6 FLOWERING SEASON(S): spring SUNLIGHT: full sun / part shade SOIL REQUIREMENTS: all soil types; any pH This rather unusual climber, also known as the chocolate vine, could be an evergreen climber option for warmer and more sheltered gardens in the British Isles. The exotic reddish-maroon flowers have a spicy fragrance and are most colourful when grown in a location in full sun. If the summer is particularly warm, then after the flowers can come large, sausage-shaped fruits. These fruits are edible, though with a rather insipid taste.1 The soft young shoots of the plants are also edible and are used in salads.2 2) Ceanothus americanus COMMON NAME(S): Indian tea / mountain sweet / wild snowball HARDINESS RATING: H7 FLOWERING SEASON(S): spring SUNLIGHT: full sun / part shade SOIL REQUIREMENTS: sand or loam; any pH With stunning blue flowers that are occasionally pink or white, C. americanus offers several evergreen options for your garden. Though these are wall shrubs rather than climbers, they look wonderful trained against a wall or fence. There are options which bloom in spring, summer or autumn. One option, for example, is the AGM-winning variety ‘Cascade’, which, like other ceanothus, has beautiful blooms and looks lovely against a sunny and sheltered south-facing wall or fence. 3) Clematis armandii COMMON NAME(S): armand clematis HARDINESS RATING: H4 FLOWERING SEASON(S): spring SUNLIGHT: full sun SOIL REQUIREMENTS: all soil types; alkaline to neutral pH This large and vigorous evergreen climber is a clematis with star-like creamy flowers borne in the spring from March to April. These blooms have an almond-like fragrance. This is another option that will do well in full sun in a sheltered spot out of drying winds. This climber will also do best in a position with a south or west-facing aspect, in moist but well-drained soil. It can grow around 5m tall with a spread of around 3m once it reaches maturity if it is happy in the location in which it is positioned. 4) C. cirrhosa COMMON NAME(S): evergreen clematis HARDINESS RATING: H4 FLOWERING SEASON(S): winter / spring SUNLIGHT: full sun SOIL REQUIREMENTS: chalk, loam, sand; any pH This clematis is also evergreen and grows to around 3m tall with a spread of up to 2.5m. The flowers it produces in late winter and early spring are around 6.5cm across and are a creamy yellow shade, sometimes with red mottles inside. These are then followed by silky seed heads that are also extremely ornamental. This is another climber that prefers a position in full sun, with a south or west-facing aspect. It will flower best in a position that is as warm and sheltered as possible. In colder areas, it might also be grown in a container and overwintered undercover. 5) Cotoneaster COMMON NAME(S): cotoneaster HARDINESS RATING: H6 FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer SUNLIGHT: full sun / part shade SOIL REQUIREMENTS: all soil types; any pH Though cotoneasters are not truly climbers, a number of species can be coaxed to cover walls or fences and can look lovely when pinned into place and enticed to do so. C. horizontalis is the species that is most commonly used for this purpose, but this can be an invasive plant, so opting for a different cotoneaster could be a better choice. For example, you might consider the AGM awarded C. conspicuus ‘Decorus’, also known as the Tibetan cotoneaster, which is also suitable as a wall shrub. “Cotoneaster looks great trained vertically and forms a tight structure with its branches,” shares Colin Skelly, a Horticultural Consultant. “They may lose most of their leaves by the end of the winter but will quickly return in spring. “Their flowers are a valuable resource for pollinators early in the season but its red berries are also popular with birds in autumn.” 6) Euonymus fortunei COMMON NAME(S): spindle / winter creeper HARDINESS RATING: H4 FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer SUNLIGHT: any SOIL REQUIREMENTS: all soil types; any pH These extremely popular evergreen shrubs are climbing if planted against a wall and are a popular choice for year-round colour and appeal in UK gardens. There are several different cultivars to choose from, including popular variegated varieties such as ‘Emerald Gaiety’ and ‘Silver Queen’. Plant these Euonymus in full sun or, better yet, partial shade, in moist but well-drained soil and you will find they make an excellent foliage plant year-round and nicely cover a wall or fence. 7) Garrya elliptica COMMON NAME(S): silk tassel bush / fever bush HARDINESS RATING: H4 FLOWERING SEASON(S): winter / spring SUNLIGHT: full sun / part shade SOIL REQUIREMENTS: all soil types; any pH Also known as the silk tassel bush, this is an impressive wall shrub or small tree that can grow to 4.5m tall in milder gardens. The leaves are a dark green on top and felted grey underneath. Long, greyish-green catkins appear in January and February, bringing interest early in the year. Plant this against a wall with any aspect, in full sun or partial shade. However, make sure that the soil is well-drained, as even though it is unfussy about certain things, this plant cannot cope with waterlogged soil. 8) Hedera colchica COMMON NAME(S): Persian ivy HARDINESS RATING: H5 FLOWERING SEASON(S): autumn / winter SUNLIGHT: any SOIL REQUIREMENTS: all soil types; any pH Persian ivy is a self-clinging climber that is extremely vigorous and can spread over a large area. It has dark green leathery leaves that are up to 20cm in length and small yellowish-green flowers that are followed by black berries. This type of ivy can grow in a range of conditions, but will thrive especially in a humus-rich and fertile alkaline soil. It can be a versatile option, growing well in anything from full sun to deep shade. Just make sure that you grow it in a place where it will not damage the materials on which it grows. 9) H. helix COMMON NAME(S): common ivy / ivory / bindwood HARDINESS RATING: H5 FLOWERING SEASON(S): autumn SUNLIGHT: any SOIL REQUIREMENTS: all soil types; any pH Another ivy, of course, is common ivy, also known as English ivy. This is another vigorous and self-clinging climber with glossy evergreen leaves. Often, those leaves have pale, white veins and they may also have autumn colour or variegation. Once mature, plants can cover extremely large areas and bushy, non-clinging branches will be produced, which have diamond leaves and flower clusters of greenish-yellow flowers that are followed by autumn berries. 10) Holboellia latifolia COMMON NAME(S): broad-leaved sausage vine HARDINESS RATING: H4 FLOWERING SEASON(S): spring SUNLIGHT: any SOIL REQUIREMENTS: all soil types; any pH A more unusual and perhaps less familiar evergreen climber is the broad-leaved sausage vine. Vigorous and quick when climbing over walls or fences with its glossy green leaves, sometimes tinged purple-bronze in new growth, it can produce fragrant flowers in spring. The flowers are made up of greenish-white males and purplish females, all with an elongated sausage-like shape. This can be grown on a wall with any aspect, even in the deep, cool shade, but they will not produce flowers successfully without some sun. 11) Hydrangea seemannii COMMON NAME(S): seemann’s hydrangea HARDINESS RATING: H4 FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer SUNLIGHT: any SOIL REQUIREMENTS: clay, loam, sand; any pH A woody evergreen wall shrub with aerial roots and thick, leathery leaves around 15cm long, this climbing hydrangea bears attractive white flowers and bracts with domed heads in the summer. Though these climbers will tolerate only a few degrees of frost, they can cope in many UK gardens, as long as the soil is well-drained and has plenty of well-rotted organic matter. 12) Lonicera henryi var. subcoriacea COMMON NAME(S): Henry’s honeysuckle HARDINESS RATING: H5 FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer SUNLIGHT: full sun / part shade SOIL REQUIREMENTS: all soil types; any pH This vigorous honeysuckle can grow up to 8 metres long. It has dark green lanceolate leaves and red and yellow tubular flowers which are borne in the summer months and are followed by black berries. It will grow in full sun but will do best in partial shade when it is provided with an east, north or west-facing aspect. This climber requires fertile and well-drained soil that is rich in organic matter. 13) L. japonica COMMON NAME(S): Japanese honeysuckle / gold and silver flower HARDINESS RATING: H5 FLOWERING SEASON(S): spring / summer SUNLIGHT: full sun / part shade SOIL REQUIREMENTS: clay or loam; any pH Another evergreen honeysuckle, Japanese honeysuckle is even more vigorous and large, growing to around 10m in height. It has dark green leaves up to around 8cm long and bears its blooms over a long period from spring to late summer. The flowers are very fragrant, white, ageing to yellow and purple flushed, and are followed by bluish-black ornamental berries. Again, this climber grows best in part shade, but can tolerate full sun as long as the soil is moist but free-draining and fertile. 14) Muehlenbeckia complexa COMMON NAME(S): necklace vine / Australian ivy HARDINESS RATING: H3 FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer SUNLIGHT: full sun / part shade SOIL REQUIREMENTS: chalk, loam, sand; any pH Also known as ‘Necklace Vine’ or ‘Australian Maidenhair Vine’, this climber has small evergreen leaves that it can keep year-round in a suitably mild and sheltered position. Creating dense tangles of slender, wiry stems, the plant can spread up to 3m wide. Grow this climber in full sun or light shade with shelter from cold winds in moist but well-drained soil. This plant is H3 hardy, so is really only an option for year-round growing in a mild or a coastal part of the UK. 15) Passiflora caerulea COMMON NAME(S): blue passion flower / blue crown HARDINESS RATING: H4 FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer / autumn SUNLIGHT: full sun / part shade SOIL REQUIREMENTS: chalk, loam, sand; any pH Another option for milder gardens, or to bring undercover to overwinter indoors, is the blue passion flower. This is a very quick-growing and vigorous climber and care is required, as it may be too vigorous and even invasive in some locations. However, it is not only a dramatic and impressive ornamental with summer flowers but also bears edible fruits thereafter, so it could be well worth considering. It may only be semi-evergreen in some locations but can be fully so in milder areas. 16) Pileostegia viburnoides COMMON NAME(S): climbing hydrangea HARDINESS RATING: H5 FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer / autumn SUNLIGHT: any SOIL REQUIREMENTS: all soil types; any pH This is a slow-growing, self-clinging climber that can eventually reach 8m in height with a spread of 1.5m. It has narrow, oval leaves that are around 15cm long and bears panicles of small, white flowers in summer and into autumn. This is a versatile evergreen climber that can grow in full shade, partial shade or full sun. It can grow on a wall which has any aspect, as long as it does not get very cold and the soil is fertile and well-drained. 17) Pyracantha COMMON NAME(S): firethorn HARDINESS RATING: H6 FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer SUNLIGHT: full sun / part shade SOIL REQUIREMENTS: all soil types; any pH Pyracanthas can often make excellent evergreen wall shrubs to cover a wall or fence. They are well known for their pretty flowers and for the attractive red, orange or yellow berries they bear throughout autumn and winter. Pyracantha wall shrubs can be great choices for cities as they are tolerant of pollution. They work well in full sun or partial shade and moist but well-drained fertile soil. 18) Solanum crispum COMMON NAME(S): potato tree HARDINESS RATING: H4 FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer / autumn SUNLIGHT: full sun SOIL REQUIREMENTS: chalk, clay, sand; alkaline to neutral pH This climbing shrub can also be evergreen or semi-evergreen in milder areas, though will lose its leaves in colder gardens. Large and vigorous, it has ovate leaves and fragrant purple flowers with yellow at the centre that are borne in summer in large, open clusters. This wall shrub will do best in moist but well-drained soil that has an alkaline or neutral pH. Grow it in full sun with shelter from cold and drying winds. An east or south-facing aspect is best. 19) Stauntonia hexaphylla COMMON NAME(S): stauntonia vine HARDINESS RATING: H3 FLOWERING SEASON(S): spring SUNLIGHT: full sun / part shade SOIL REQUIREMENTS: chalk, loam, sand; any pH Stauntonias are vigorous evergreen climbers that can also work well in milder UK gardens. This option bears fragrant pink flowers that are 2cm long, which can sometimes be followed by edible purplish fruits that grow to around 5cm across. Grow this climber in any aspect, in full sun or partial shade. Ensure the soil it grows in is well-drained and place it in a sheltered position that is as mild as possible, as this option is only H3 hardy. 20) Trachelospermum jasminoides COMMON NAME(S): star jasmine / Chinese ivy HARDINESS RATING: H4 FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer SUNLIGHT: full sun / part shade SOIL REQUIREMENTS: chalk, loam, sand; any pH Last but certainly not least, you might consider star jasmine. This evergreen climber is a favourite for milder gardens and also for conservatory or greenhouse cultivation, with dark green leaves that turn bronze in winter and white fragrant flowers that are borne from mid to late summer. It should be grown in well-drained soil in full sun or partial shade, with shelter and protection from cold, drying winds, or indoors in full light out of the direct sun. The options above are, of course, not your only choice, but if you are looking for evergreen climbers, then checking out those listed above is a great place to start. References 1. Akebia quinata. (n.d.). North Carolina Extension Gardener Plant Toolbox. Retrieved March 15, 2023, from https://plants.ces.ncsu.edu/plants/akebia-quinata/ 2. Akebia quinata. (n.d.-b). The Agroforestry Research Trust. Retrieved March 15, 2023, from https://www.agroforestry.co.uk/product/akebia-quinata/
Learn more
Winter Growing Leeks With Late-Cropping Varieties: Choose A Suitable Site And Get To Work
IN THIS GUIDE Why Are Leeks Good For Winter Growing? Choosing Winter Varieties Sowing Winter Leeks Choosing A Growing Site Transplanting Before Winter Harvesting Winter Leeks Leeks are a perfect winter vegetable, as there are many different varieties that will do very well in a UK garden over the winter months. These are hardy plants that can actually taste better after they have been exposed to frost. The key to being able to harvest leeks all through the winter lies in: Choosing the right varieties of leek for winter growing. Timing things correctly when it comes to sowing leeks in and for winter. Choosing the right place to grow your leeks. Transplanting leeks to growing areas at the right time and using the right method. Caring for leeks well over the summer and autumn months. Making sure leeks can be harvested as needed during the coldest months. Leeks do have a long growing season and take a long while to grow. They will occupy your garden during summer as well as throughout autumn and winter. However, the investment in space and time is well worthwhile, as you will be able to continue harvesting leeks from your garden, potentially right through the winter months. Why Are Leeks Good For Winter Growing? Leeks are a great choice for sowing in the late winter or leaving in the ground throughout the winter of the following year. With the former option, you can sow leeks inside in February to harvest in late summer or early autumn, but note that you will not typically place leeks outside in their final growing positions until April or May. With the latter, it is important to understand that the plants are not actually in active growth during the winter months. Rather, they grow to maturity over the summer and then are kept in the ground in winter until they are ready to harvest. If you wish, it is possible to do both. You can start sowing leeks inside in February to harvest at the beginning of the leek harvesting season and then sow further batches of seeds during spring and early summer in order to continue to harvest leeks right through to the next year. Choosing Winter Varieties In order to be able to harvest leeks throughout a long harvesting period, it is important to choose the right varieties. There are leeks that are ideal for early sowing and harvesting, leeks that are great for harvesting in the mid-winter period, and leeks that are ideally suited to leaving in your garden right through to spring. When choosing which leeks to grow, make sure that you look at whether they are considered early, mid or late-season varieties. You should also check how well they can cope with the winter conditions where you live. According to the HPAA, some late-cropping varieties which would be suited to winter growing include: Below Zero F1 (incredibly hardy to cold conditions) Giant Winter Leek Musselburgh (again very hardy – crops from December through to March) Tadorna Leek (another that crops from December to March) Sowing Winter Leeks Typically, you can expect to start harvesting leeks around six months after they are planted. This means that, if you want your leeks ready to harvest in winter, you should not sow too early. ”I sow my winter leeks in June and then into the ground in July, making sure that they have sufficient water in early growth,” shares Colin Skelly, a Master Horticulturist. “Autumn is normally a good growing period as it gets wetter and stays warm. “Sow too early and even a winter leek cultivar can tend to bolt (start to flower), which can still be used if harvested quickly, but messes up your harvesting plans! “A very mild winter can still do this even if your timing is perfect.” Remember, those planted in winter will typically be harvested in late summer or autumn. Sow and plant in spring if you want to enjoy a later harvest. Leeks can potentially be sown right up until June, though here in the UK it is generally best to sow earlier in spring to allow the plants as much time as possible to mature before cold weather arrives once more. Choosing A Growing Site Choosing the right spot to grow leeks in is always important, but it is especially important to think about where you grow leeks if you want them to remain in the ground for as long as possible over the winter months. Plant your leeks in a location with full sun and make sure that the soil or growing medium is rich, fertile, and moist yet free-draining with plenty of organic matter. Choosing a more sheltered position might help if you wish to keep them in place over winter, though, in general, they won’t mind an exposed location. Even though winter leeks are hardy down to around -10°C, in particularly cold areas or in extremely cold winters, it is important to make sure that you have planted your leeks in a good spot and not in a frost pocket or particularly cold location. Transplanting Before Winter Once you have decided where to grow your leeks for the rest of the growing season, you should take the leeks you have grown from seed and transplant them to their final growing area in your vegetable garden. See this guide for tips on transplanting leek seedlings outside. The healthier your leeks are before winter arrives, the more likely they are to stand in your garden to be harvested as you need them through the winter months. Harvesting Winter Leeks To make sure that you can continue to harvest leeks through winter, you should ensure that the soil around them does not freeze solid and make harvesting difficult. You can help to avoid this by adding a thick layer of carbon-rich mulch, such as dried leaves or straw, around your plants. Alternatively, you can remove leeks from a growing area and heel them into another part of your garden where the ground will not freeze as readily.
Learn more
Leeks Are Good For Harvesting From Late Summer To Mid Winter - Learn How In This Guide
IN THIS GUIDE When To Harvest Leeks How To Harvest Leeks Storing Your Leeks Leeks are a crop that you could harvest from late summer right through to the following February if you choose the right varieties and sow or plant out at the right times. This is a great autumn and winter vegetable to grow in your garden. When and how to harvest leeks are important things to understand in order to grow them in your garden. First of all, to get a harvest of leeks, sow your seeds in winter or spring. After around 6 months, you can harvest your leeks by simply using a garden fork to pry the vegetables up from the ground. Difficulty Easy Equipment Required Garden fork or another similar gardening tool When To Harvest August to December When To Harvest Leeks You can expect to harvest leeks from late August onwards, around 6 months from planting. Most gardeners (myself included) will leave leeks in the garden until they have been exposed to frosts, as this can improve their flavour. When you will harvest leeks will dictate which varieties it will be best to grow. Some are best for late summer or autumn harvesting, whilst others are great for mid-winter. Some are even ideal for seeing you through until spring. Leeks are then usually left in the ground and harvested as needed from October through to December. It is best to leave leeks in the ground until they are required because they do not keep long fresh in storage. Leeks are typically hardy in the UK and can cope with whatever weather conditions we typically experience – including low temperatures, windy and wet conditions, and snow. In fact, snow can sometimes be beneficial, acting as a blanket to protect the roots of the plants. If you live in a cold winter area and the ground freezes solid over the winter, you can consider lifting and heeling them back into the soil in a warmer area where they can be retrieved more easily as needed. You can also use a mulch of straw or dried leaves to help reduce ground freezing. How To Harvest Leeks When harvesting leeks, use a fork or other gardening tool to pry them up. Don’t try to pull them up by hand or they may break off below the ground. Leeks can get quite stuck in the growing medium, especially if your soil has a high clay content, so easing them out gently so that they do not break is the way to go. “I use a garden fork to gently ease them out of the ground and then use a hand fork to carefully knock away soil from the roots,” explains Horticultural Consultant Colin Skelly. “You don’t want soil entering the top of the leek as this will make washing them far more arduous. “Try to harvest in drier weather if possible as this will mean less soil sticking to the leek.” Once you harvest your leeks, whether you do so all at once or little by little over the coldest part of the year, you should find plenty of ways to cook with them, as this versatile vegetable works very well in a wide range of recipes. Storing Your Leeks Most of the time, you should not experience pest or disease problems when keeping leeks in the garden over winter to be harvested slowly over time. However, if you do find that you are having issues with winter damage, then you might also consider covering your winter crop with row covers or cloches to protect them. However, if you prefer or would like to grow something else in the space in your garden, you can harvest a number of leeks all at once and preserve them by chopping them up and freezing them for later use. Alternatively, you can store leeks in damp soil or sand in a cool cellar or pantry for a few months. They will, as mentioned above, typically store best in the ground outside where possible until it is time to harvest.
Learn more
You've Grown The Common Sunflower - Now Try One Of These Varieties Too
IN THIS GUIDE 1) Helianthus annuus 2) H. annuus ‘Valentine’ 3) H. annuus ‘Garden Statement’ 4) H. annuus ‘Sunsation Yellow’ 5) H. annuus ‘Pacino Gold’ 6) H. annuus ‘Little Leo’ 7) H. annuus ‘Titan’ 8) H. annuus ‘Giraffe’ 9) H. annuus ‘Russian Giant’ 10) H. annuus ‘Kong’ 11) H. annuus ‘Helios Flame’ 12) H. annuus ‘Copper Queen’ 13) H. annuus ‘Velvet Queen’ 14) H. annuus ‘Ruby Sunset’ 15) H. annuus ‘Claret’ 16) H. annuus ‘Black Magic’ 17) H. annuus ‘Sunbelievable Brown-Eyed Girl’ 18) H. ‘Loddon Gold’ 19) H. scaberrimus 20) H. maximiliani References Sunflowers produce their floral reward very promptly after planting and in profusion, but they also have other pleasing characteristics. For example, as the flowers are a source of nectar, they will draw butterflies and bees to your garden in abundance. When they have withered, they form sunflower seeds which can be used for all your culinary needs and as a source of food for the wildlife in your garden. Most of all though, it’s the very large flowers, their uncomplicated daisy-like form, the brilliant yellow colour, and their height that make sunflowers so attractive. Underneath, I talk you through my favourite 20 sunflower varieties, selected for a wide choice of flower forms and colours, that can be found easily here in the UK. Other than where noted, they flower through most of the summer and are annuals. 1) Helianthus annuus COMMON NAME(S): common sunflower / comb flower HARDINESS RATING: H4 FLOWERS: yellow and brown SIZE: 2.5-4m in height, 0.5-1m spread Native to a swath of land from the central belt of the United States to that of Mexico, the common sunflower is found on prairies, grasslands and disturbed ground. This tough annual self-seeds readily and has become naturalised in many geographic regions outside North America. The plants are typically about 3m tall. The large leaves are well known for being hairy and heart-shaped, whilst the flowers are huge at 25-30cm across. On the species plant, the disc florets are in varying rich shades of brown and the ray florets are a bright, sunny yellow. 2) H. annuus ‘Valentine’ COMMON NAME(S): sunflower ‘valentine’ HARDINESS RATING: H4 FLOWERS: yellow and brown SIZE: 1-1.5m in height, 0.1-0.5m spread Rising to just over 1m and with flowers measuring 15-17cm in diameter, ‘Valentine’ produces amongst the lightest-coloured sunflowers – or the darkest, depending on your point of view. The rays are a pale, lemony yellow, sometimes even a pale cream. However, the disc is dark brown, sometimes virtually black! Either way, this is definitely the sunflower with the most contrasting colours and it has been credited with the RHS Award of Garden Merit. 3) H. annuus ‘Garden Statement’ COMMON NAME(S): sunflower ‘garden statement’ HARDINESS RATING: H4 FLOWERS: yellow and brown SIZE: 1.5-2m in height, 0.5-1m spread About 90cm tall, ‘Garden Statement’ is a relatively new cultivar that is rapidly gaining popularity. It has light, bright, lemony-yellow rays of a crinkly texture and a disc that is a chocolate brown shade. Though this cultivar has a narrowish profile, quite interestingly, it has the bonus of being a multi-stalked type, making it more of a typical garden plant. 4) H. annuus ‘Sunsation Yellow’ COMMON NAME(S): sunflower ‘sunsation yellow’ HARDINESS RATING: H4 FLOWERS: yellow and brown SIZE: 0.5-1m in height, 0.1-0.5m spread Technically qualifying as a dwarf variety at 75cm tall, ‘Sunsation Yellow’ boasts the plus point of a relatively long blooming season that goes well into autumn. Its 15-17cm wide flowers are a proper lemon yellow, with rich, chocolate-brown discs. This plant has received the RHS Award of Garden Merit. 5) H. annuus ‘Pacino Gold’ COMMON NAME(S): sunflower ‘Pacino gold’ HARDINESS RATING: H4 FLOWERS: yellow SIZE: 0.5-1m in height, 0.5-1m spread Only about 65cm tall, ‘Pacino Gold’ is another dwarf variety. A clear plus point is that this branching variety is especially floriferous. It has very bright sunny yellow rays centred by an amber disc so that the entire flower is rather lighter in shade than those of most varieties. 6) H. annuus ‘Little Leo’ COMMON NAME(S): sunflower ‘little leo’ HARDINESS RATING: H4 FLOWERS: yellow SIZE: 0.5-1m in height, 0.5-1m spread Unquestionably a dinky dwarf variety at only 50cm, ‘Little Leo’ lives up to its billing. It is a branching or multi-stalked type and the flowers are a bright sunny, sulphur yellow. It blooms from early to mid-summer and lasts well into autumn. 7) H. annuus ‘Titan’ COMMON NAME(S): sunflower ‘titan’ HARDINESS RATING: H4 FLOWERS: yellow SIZE: 2.5-4m in height, 0.5-1m spread At the opposite end of the size spectrum, ‘Titan’, a giant sunflower variety, grows between 3-4m high. Its flowers, held aloft, have a light brown disc surrounded by bright sunny-yellow to sulphur-yellow petals. These flowers are truly made for titans, having a mind-boggling width of nearly 50cm. 8) H. annuus ‘Giraffe’ COMMON NAME(S): sunflower ‘giraffe’ HARDINESS RATING: H4 FLOWERS: brown and yellow SIZE: 4-8m in height, 0.5-1m spread Reaching a staggering height of about 4.5m, which is taller than some trees, the aptly-named ‘Giraffe’ is a giant sunflower. A point worth noting is that its stem, besides being long, is also quite strong. Not only is this cultivar super tall, but its flowers are also massive, often 30cm in diameter or even more. They bloom from mid-summer to early autumn. 9) H. annuus ‘Russian Giant’ COMMON NAME(S): sunflower ‘Russian giant’ HARDINESS RATING: H4 FLOWERS: yellow and brown SIZE: 2.5-4m in height, 0.5-1m spread While ‘Russian Giant’ is the least tall of our giant sunflower selections at 2.5-3m tall, it produces truly giant flowers at 30cm across. The rays’ colour varies from sunny yellow to sulphur yellow to a stunning golden shade. The disc is uniformly chocolate brown. This cultivar seems to be especially attractive to bees, butterflies and birds. 10) H. annuus ‘Kong’ COMMON NAME(S): sunflower ‘kong’ HARDINESS RATING: H4 FLOWERS: yellow SIZE: 2.5-4m in height, spread At 4m high, ‘Kong’ is not quite as tall as the fabled giant gorilla, but it is very much a giant among its kith and kin. A real plus point is that this giant cultivar is a branching type, so it bears multiple flowers on each stem. The big 16-18cm flowers are centred by a rich brown disc surrounded by equally rich deep yellow rays. 11) H. annuus ‘Helios Flame’ COMMON NAME(S): sunflower ‘helios flame’ HARDINESS RATING: H4 FLOWERS: yellow and brown SIZE: 1.5-2m in height, 0.1-0.5m spread ‘Helios Flame’ is a rarity among sunflowers, being properly bi-coloured. The near-black discs are surrounded by rays that are delicious mahogany at their medial halves, bleeding with streaks into a brilliant, popping yellow. The flowers are held on very sturdy stems. This cultivar is of medium height, towering at about 1.8m. 12) H. annuus ‘Copper Queen’ COMMON NAME(S): sunflower ‘copper queen’ HARDINESS RATING: H4 FLOWERS: orange and brown SIZE: 1.5-2.5m in height, 0.5-1m spread Of an intermediate height of 1.8m, what distinguishes ‘Copper Queen’ from the others on this list is the colour of its rays – they are out-and-out orange. The central disc is very dark brown, adding to the dramatic hue of this cultivar’s flower. It has a longer blooming season than most other varieties. 13) H. annuus ‘Velvet Queen’ COMMON NAME(S): sunflower ‘velvet queen’ HARDINESS RATING: H4 FLOWERS: gold and orange SIZE: 1-1.5m in height, 0.5-1m spread Reaching a height of around 1.5m and producing flowers of average size and which has a corresponding average blooming season, ‘Velvet Queen’ is actually a very special cultivar. The reason is that it produces fantastic flowers that are of a riveting coppery red hue with a distinctly velvety sheen. 14) H. annuus ‘Ruby Sunset’ COMMON NAME(S): sunflower ‘ruby sunset’ HARDINESS RATING: H4 FLOWERS: red SIZE: 1-1.5m in height, 0.5-1m spread Also of a nondescript height nearing 1.5m and also producing flowers of an average size, ‘Ruby Sunset’ is also very much a special cultivar. Again, it is because of the intense hues. Centred by a rich brown disc, the flowers are a thrilling coppery ruby-red. 15) H. annuus ‘Claret’ COMMON NAME(S): sunflower ‘claret’ HARDINESS RATING: H4 FLOWERS: black, brown and red SIZE: 1-1.5m in height, 0.1-0.5m spread Dark drama is the name of the game here. To start with, the stems bearing the flowers of this variety are a dark bronzy-green colour. Then, the flowers are in a shade that varies from that of a red bordeaux to that of a tawny port. What’s more, these thrilling blooms are centred by a black disc. The flowers are of a sizeable width of 12-15cm and the plant rises to around 1.6-1.8m. ‘Claret’ has received the RHS Award of Garden Merit. 16) H. annuus ‘Black Magic’ COMMON NAME(S): sunflower ‘black magic’ HARDINESS RATING: H4 FLOWERS: black and purple SIZE: 1-1.5m in height, 0.1-0.5m spread Probably more difficult to source than most of our other selections, ‘Black Magic’ produces a take-your-breath-away flower. Surrounding a hard black disc, the rays start black, then fade to a maroon, finishing a coppery-red at the tips. At 1.2m tall, this cultivar is quite compact. It is of a branching type and shows off its incredible, one-of-a-kind flowers nearly all summer long. 17) H. annuus ‘Sunbelievable Brown-Eyed Girl’ COMMON NAME(S): sunflower ‘sunbeliv01’ HARDINESS RATING: H4 FLOWERS: brown, red and yellow SIZE: 0.5-1m in height, 0.5-1m spread A relatively new cultivar appearing around 2018, ‘Sunbelievable Brown Eyed Girl’ took the bronze medal at that year’s Chelsea Flower Show and it is easy to see why.1 It produces a gorgeous flower, is prolific and floriferous, and it blooms all summer and autumn long! The lovely bi-coloured flower is centred by a black-brown disc. The petals start amber-mahogany and transition to bright sunny yellow. Of an unusually bushy form, this dwarf variety is 60cm tall with an equal spread. It is a sterile, seedless variety that is grown from cuttings. 18) H. ‘Loddon Gold’ COMMON NAME(S): sunflower ‘Loddon gold’ HARDINESS RATING: H5 FLOWERS: yellow SIZE: 1-1.5m in height, 0.5-1m spread Is that a sunflower or a marigold? ‘Loddon Gold’ is a clump-forming perennial and has a very convenient height of 1.5m. Its coarse leaves are more ovate than cordate. As for the flowers, they are 10-12cm across and are of a rich golden-yellow tone. They are dome-shaped, have narrow rays, and are in a fully double form. This plant is a recipient of the RHS Award of Garden Merit. 19) H. scaberrimus COMMON NAME(S): showy sunflower HARDINESS RATING: H5 FLOWERS: yellow SIZE: 1.5-2.5m in height, 1-1.5m spread ‘Showy Sunflower’ is another option for those who prefer perennials and this species also has a clump-forming habit. Its leaves are different too, as they are serrated and elliptic. The plants rise to about 2m tall. This species’ flowers appear in late summer to late autumn. They are in semi to double form. The rays are a light bright yellow and, at another point of departure, the light brown discs are quite small and not as prominent as in most other varieties’ flowers. They are nearly 12cm across. 20) H. maximiliani COMMON NAME(S): maximilian sunflower HARDINESS RATING: H4 FLOWERS: yellow SIZE: 1.5-2.5m in height, 1-1.5m spread A different species of sunflower, the Maximilian sunflower is a clump-forming perennial. It is quite tall and can grow beyond 2m in height. Unlike other sunflowers, this variety has lanceolate leaves. The rays are a very light yellow with small, light brown centres. On this species, flowers are held along the length of the stems. They are also scented, delicately but distinctly, which is an unusual trait among sunflowers. “As a perennial rather than an annual, this species has the edge in terms of annual gardening labour,” says Colin Skelly, a Horticultural Consultant. “It doesn’t have the large discs associated with many of the annuals, but it more than makes up for it with multiple smaller discs that are hugely popular with pollinators in late summer. A great perennial for the back of the border.” References 1. Rice, G. (2018b, September 28). Graham Rice’s new plants blog: new everblooming sunflower. Royal Horticultural Society. Retrieved March 24, 2023, from https://www.rhs.org.uk/plants/plants-blogs/plants/august-2018/helianthus-annuus-sunbelievable
Learn more
Sunflower Seeds Can Be Sown Directly Into Open Ground, But Will Need Protecting
IN THIS GUIDE 1) Select A Spot For Sowing 2) Prepare The Planting Site 3) Sow The Sunflower Seeds 4) Protect The Seedlings As They Grow 5) Thin Out Your Young Plants 6) Seedling Aftercare Brilliant and cheerful, sunflowers are among the easiest plants to grow from seed. Sunflower seeds germinate very reliably and can be sown directly in open ground, making these plants among the top contenders for introducing family members, especially children, to the pleasures of gardening. Regardless of the variety, sunflowers tend to be heavy feeders and drinkers, so, even though the plants are tough and vigorous, their needs will require aspiring gardeners to learn about plant care and requirements. You can grow sunflowers from seed by following these steps: Select an ideal spot for planting your sunflower seeds. Prepare the ground with rich and fertile soil. Sow your chosen variety of sunflower seeds. Protect the seedlings as they grow. Thin out your young sunflower seedlings. Provide the correct aftercare for your sunflowers. This process is explained in more depth below. Difficulty Easy Equipment Required Gardening gloves, pots, seeds, suitable compost, trowel, bamboo canes, cotton string When To Sow April to May 1) Select A Spot For Sowing In warmer regions of the UK, sunflower seeds may be sown outdoors in the second half of April. In colder regions, wait until the weather warms up in May. Sunflowers need sun, so choose a spot that receives several hours of sunlight per day. A southern aspect is best, but east or west-facing aspects will work too. It is advisable for the growing site to be sheltered from blustery winds. 2) Prepare The Planting Site Most annual sunflowers will grow in almost any type of soil, but for them to flourish, they need rich and fertile soil that is kept moist but drains very well. Start with a mixed loam and enrich it with humus, compost and well-rotted manure, incorporating these into the ground at about a 1:3 ratio with the soil. Do not use chicken manure for these plants. To facilitate drainage, add some grit, sand or perlite to the soil, especially if the ground is clayey. Though not strictly necessary, till the ground with a rake or a hoe to break up clods and make a friable soil. The best soil pH is in the neutral to slightly alkaline range, between 6.6-7.8. Sunflowers will not thrive in acidic soil, so if your soil has an acidic pH, you should correct this before growing them. 3) Sow The Sunflower Seeds At the planting site, make a very shallow furrow using a gardening trowel or a stick. Sunflower seeds germinate reliably, so you may as well sow them thinly. Space them by about half the spread of the variety you are growing. If in doubt, sow seeds at around 20cm apart. Sunflower seeds need darkness to germinate. Cover the seeds with a 1cm layer of soil and gently pat it down, but do not firm it up. Moisten the ground well using a watering can fitted with a rose. Keep the ground moist and, if necessary, water daily. 4) Protect The Seedlings As They Grow Sunflower seedlings and young plants are prime targets for various garden pests, but none more so than slugs and snails, which can destroy many small plants overnight. “Aside from slugs and snails, mice would make a tasty meal of any sunflowers I direct sowed into the soil,” says Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly. “I sow in pots in a greenhouse or cold frame, using mesh to protect the compost from unwanted snack-seeker, and plant out when the young plants are robust enough to be transplanted.” Other pests that are a threat to emerging sunflowers include squirrels and birds. If you know of slug and snail activity in your garden, protect seedlings proactively. Consider protecting seedlings with mesh netting to protect them from pests. It will need to be a stiff type of netting and its edges will have to be wedged into the ground all around so that slugs and snails cannot work their way in. It can be removed after the young plants are sufficiently mature and can withstand an attack from these garden pests. 5) Thin Out Your Young Plants About 3 weeks after germination, the young plants should be thinned as necessary. For all adjacently-sown seeds that have germinated, one young plant will need to be removed. It should be the one that is weaker and slower-growing. Water the ground first and then, after a short while, uproot the chosen plants. 6) Seedling Aftercare Sunflowers thrive in moist soil, so be sure that the ground does not dry out. If there has been no rainfall, water the ground well. In hot and dry weather, you may need to water every other day. Other than watering, sunflowers do not need any aftercare, with one exception. Some taller varieties that have an upright habit may droop or keel over. If your varieties show signs of doing so, insert long canes into the soil a few centimetres from the stem. Tie the stem loosely to the cane at two levels. I prefer to use cotton string and avoid string or twine made of synthetics for this purpose.
Learn more
Depending On Your Sunflower Type, Deadheading Might Extend The Flowering Season
IN THIS GUIDE Why Deadhead Sunflowers? 1) Sanitise Your Tools 2) Get The Timing Right 3) Identify The First Set Of Leaves 4) Make The Incision 5) Sweep Any Debris 6) Repeat Later In The Season Many people regard deadheading as a tiresome and unnecessary activity, and it is true that your sunflowers will survive just fine if you skip it. However, there are a host of benefits to be enjoyed by spending a few minutes doing so once or twice during the blooming season. All it requires is just a small investment of time, following these individual steps: Sanitise your tools (ideally with rubbing alcohol). Get the timing right – lop off flowers when they look tired and past their best. Look for the first set of leaves below the flower head. Make the incision just above these leaves – ensuring you don’t cut away any foliage. Sweep up the sunflower debris. Repeat again later in the season on your plants. For those who still don’t feel confident taking on the task from these instructions alone, I’ve delved into each step in greater detail below. Difficulty Easy Equipment Required Pruners, gardening gloves, cloth, isopropyl alcohol When To Deadhead Summer to Autumn Why Deadhead Sunflowers? The main advantage of deadheading is bringing a halt to seed production. Why is this desirable? Well, it will divert the plant’s energies back towards blooming, ensuring a longer flowering season. “Large single-headed sunflowers will not need deadheading, but many sunflowers will typically have many smaller flowers that will benefit after the first, often larger, flowers have bloomed,” says Colin Skelly, a Horticultural Consultant. “Deadheading will extend the season and provide many smaller flower heads for seed saving or wildlife.” It will also prevent self-seeding which will make the sunflower less attractive to pests. Finally, deadheading also carries the benefit of keeping your sunflower display neat and tidy. 1) Sanitise Your Tools Speaking from personal experience, there’s nothing worse than trying to extend your plant’s blooming cycle, but actually endangering its life through the spread of bacteria! For that reason, sanitising your tools is of paramount importance. 2) Get The Timing Right Successfully deadheading sunflowers involves removing fading blooms before they have a chance to produce seeds. This means being ruthless with any flowers that don’t quite look their best, that have been gnawed at by pests or that are jostling for space with other healthier blossoms. On the other hand, if you wish to save the seeds for propagation or bird-feeding purposes, you can wait until the reverse of the sunflower head has turned yellow. Save these after pruning and hang them upside down in a dry location with good ventilation to allow the seeds to fully mature. 3) Identify The First Set Of Leaves Once you have identified the sunflower you’re going to deadhead, look down its stem to locate the first set of leaves that sprout from the stem beneath the flower head. This is where you’ll make the cut. If the sunflower in your care is a multi-stemmed variety, you’ll need to repeat this process with every individual sunflower and look down at it to ascertain where it splits off from the main stalk. 4) Make The Incision With one hand, grasp the stem firmly but gently to ensure you don’t accidentally uproot or otherwise damage the plant. With the other, use your pruners to make the incision just above the leaf node. You should make the incision at a 45° angle or one close enough to that gradient. This will prevent rainfall from accumulating atop the stem and from adversely damaging the plant’s health. 5) Sweep Any Debris Once you have finished deadheading, it’s highly important to remember to sweep up all the flower heads, stems and foliage that have fallen from it during the process. There are a number of reasons why this is a sensible addition to your routine. Firstly, disposing of the debris will make the plant look tidier and more attractive, as well as improve air circulation and reduce the chance of fungal infections. What’s more, it will also give you access to any seeds inside the spent flower heads if you wish to harvest them, or at least some good-quality organic material for composting if you don’t. 6) Repeat Later In The Season Depending on the cultivar of sunflower you have selected, the growing conditions in your garden, and the climate in that particular year, you might find that deadheading your sunflowers just once is enough to ensure they enjoy a long and happy blooming season. However, robust plants in optimal conditions will replace the blooms you have removed with reasonable rapidity. For this reason, I always like to perform an initial deadheading round in mid to late summer, before repeating the process again in autumn. That way, I keep my plants looking impressive for as long as possible.
Learn more
17 Pretty Poppy (Papaver) Varieties - No They're Not All Red!
IN THIS GUIDE 1) P. rhoeas 2) P. somniferum 3) P. nudicaule 4) P. alpinum 5) Meconopsis betonicifolia 6) M. ‘Strathspey’ 7) M. grandis ‘Betty Sherriff’s Dream Poppy’ 8) Romneya coulteri 9) P. commutatum 10) P. somniferum ‘Black Paeony’ 11) P. rhoeas ‘Picotee Mixed’ 12) P. orientale ‘Beauty of Livermere’ 13) P. orientale ‘Black and White’ 14) P. orientale ‘Flamingo’ 15) P. orientale ‘Pinnacle’ 16) P. orientale ‘Carmen’ 17) P. rhoeas ‘Supreme’ References Poppy species and their derivatives combine for a total numbering many hundreds. The great majority of these varieties are annuals or biennials, whilst some are deciduous perennials. Many plants that we call poppies fall within the genus Papaver, but there’s a twist here. The common name ‘poppy’ has a one-to-one correspondence with the botanical family Papaveraceae, meaning that many genera and all their respective varieties are encompassed within the common name. This is the reason that you will find plants of different genera in our list underneath. However, the large majority of garden poppies are cultivars of Papaver orientale and, therefore, its cultivars make up the majority of our cultivar selections. 1) P. rhoeas COMMON NAME(S): common / field / flanders poppy HARDINESS RATING: H7 FLOWERS: red The bowl-shaped flowers, tissue-thin translucent petals, and the glowing vermilion hue are the familiar elements from which the common poppy is composed. The leaves are very pretty too, being pinnate and of a cool green shade. This annual is 70-80cm tall. The flowering season is variable, but it typically occurs in June and sometimes runs into July. Those lapel pins and small artificial flowers you can see around Remembrance Day in the UK are modelled on this poppy species, which still blankets some World War I battlegrounds and burial grounds during the summer.1 2) P. somniferum COMMON NAME(S): opium poppy HARDINESS RATING: H5 FLOWERS: purple, pink, red and white Listed objectively because of its unquestionable beauty, the opium poppy, for better or for worse, is very easy to grow and bears very decorative flowers. In single or semi-double form, they are open and cup-shaped, with fringed and frilly petals. In nature, this annual is found in tones of pink, magenta, purple and red. Its flowers have a yellow boss and its petals have a dark blotch at the base. The plant grows to 1-1.2m high. 3) P. nudicaule COMMON NAME(S): Icelandic poppy / arctic poppy HARDINESS RATING: H7 FLOWERS: orange, red, yellow and white The Poppy species that looks most like a wildflower is perhaps the Icelandic poppy. The plants are relatively diminutive at 30-45cm and the bowl-shaped flowers are only about 5cm wide, occurring in light and bright tones of yellow, orange, white and scarlet, without any dark marks or blotches on the petals. They have a prominent centre of bright yellow stamens. This arctic native is in bloom throughout much of the summer. Belying its wildflower looks, this delightful poppy is a perennial, albeit a short-lived one. 4) P. alpinum COMMON NAME(S): alpine poppy HARDINESS RATING: H6 FLOWERS: orange, white, red and yellow Giving stiff competition to any other poppy in the wildflower department, the alpine poppy grows to a height of only around 20cm. Its blooms are quite like meadow wildflowers, as they are bowl-shaped and occur in shades of pure white and in gentle, bright tones of yellow, orange and scarlet. Its unusual tufted habit, in addition to its other qualities, makes this short-lived perennial simply fantastic for rockeries. It blooms for most of the summer. 5) Meconopsis betonicifolia COMMON NAME(S): Himalayan poppy / blue poppy HARDINESS RATING: H4 FLOWERS: blue Even though it is as hard to find as it is hard to grow, the Himalayan poppy still makes a name for itself because of the breathtaking blooms it produces. “I could not live without my meconopsis (Himalayan blue poppy),” says Caroline from The 3 Growbags. “It’s an absolute jaw-dropper and loves the Highland soil and climate. Laura bought me mine so they’ll always be special, however, neither of my sisters are able to grow this stunner where they live which, from a sibling rivalry point of view, is very satisfying.” The salver-shaped flowers have a delicate appearance courtesy of their frilly, crinkled petals, which are a light and limpid blue-to-lilac hue. These 8cm blooms are centred by a boss of yellow stamens. Measuring over 1m tall, this species is tall for a poppy. The large leaves are worth a mention, as they have a visible nap and are properly bluish-green. 6) M. ‘Strathspey’ COMMON NAME(S): Himalayan poppy ‘strathspey’ HARDINESS RATING: H5 FLOWERS: blue and purple A relatively recent cultivar of Meconopsis, ‘Strathspey’ produces one of the most intensely coloured poppies of all the varieties on this list. These salver-shaped blooms are of a deep royal purple to a dramatic dark violet hue and present a satiny sheen. They have wonderfully contrasting golden-yellow centres. These perennials are 70-80cm tall. The blooming season starts in late spring and continues into mid-summer. 7) M. grandis ‘Betty Sherriff’s Dream Poppy’ COMMON NAME(S): Himalayan blue poppy ‘Bobby Masterton’ HARDINESS RATING: H5 FLOWERS: blue This hard-to-grow poppy will have your guests enquiring about its mouthful of a name, for its flowers are an impossible sky-blue tone, sometimes with light purple flushes or streaks. They are made all the more striking because of the gauzy petals that appear translucent because of their light limpid shade. The flowers’ form is rather open and salver shaped and the central stamens are usually inconspicuous. The foliage brings a dash of interest, as young leaves display a purplish blush. This short-lived perennial can grow up to 1m in height. It flowers in the early part of summer and is a recipient of the RHS Award of Garden Merit. 8) Romneya coulteri COMMON NAME(S): Californian tree poppy HARDINESS RATING: H5 FLOWERS: white and yellow Very much a real poppy considering that it belongs to the family Papaveraceae, the Californian tree poppy, not to be confused with Californian poppies, is very popular in the UK – and for good reason. The crinkly-petalled, bowl-shaped flowers can reach up to 15cm across and are a snowy-white colour with a conspicuous bright golden centre. This perennial rises to 1.5-2m. The flowering season is very variable and greatly depends on region and climate, but it covers a good part of the summer. This variety has been awarded the RHS Award of Garden Merit. 9) P. commutatum COMMON NAME(S): caucasian scarlet poppy HARDINESS RATING: H5 FLOWERS: red and black The caucasian scarlet poppy produces 7cm-wide flowers of a brilliant hue that ranges from scarlet to deep red. Each petal has a big black blotch near its base. One of the showier poppies, this species’ flowers are properly bowl-shaped. Their blooming schedule covers the bridge season of late spring to early summer. The longish leaves are both pretty and unusual for they are pinnatifid – partially pinnate-cut. This annual reaches up to 40cm in height and is another recipient of the RHS Award of Garden Merit. 10) P. somniferum ‘Black Paeony’ COMMON NAME(S): opium poppy ‘black paeony’ HARDINESS RATING: H5 FLOWERS: black The most eye-catching and dramatic of all the poppies is, undoubtedly, the ‘Black Paeony.’ The fully double-form flowers, which resemble peonies, are composed of glossy, silky ruffled petals. These flowers are huge at 10-12cm in diameter and they range in colour from deep purple with white streaks to virtually black. Even the foliage is worth a mention, for the leaves are cordate, have wavy margins and are of a silvery sea-green tone. This annual is about 90cm tall and blooms from mid-summer and may continue to flower until early autumn. 11) P. rhoeas ‘Picotee Mixed’ COMMON NAME(S): poppy ‘picotee mixed’ HARDINESS RATING: H7 FLOWERS: pink, red, orange and white One of the most elegant and refined poppies, ‘Picotee Mixed’ has semi-double or double picotee flowers that are bowl-shaped, and whose tidy petals appear as if someone carefully arranged them! These bicolour flowers are white with orange, pink or red tinges and streaks that appear progressively darker and more solid at the outer edges. Ideal for the summer garden, these annuals bloom for most of the season. They attain heights of 50-60cm. 12) P. orientale ‘Beauty of Livermere’ COMMON NAME(S): oriental poppy ‘beauty of livermere’ HARDINESS RATING: H7 FLOWERS: red Verily living up to its name, this ‘Goliath Group’ cultivar boasts a flower that is a staggering 20cm wide and is an intense red colour. This colour is then accentuated by a conspicuous black spot at the base of each petal. These spectacular blooms are borne on stems up to 1m high. This increasingly popular perennial’s flowers span the late spring to early summer bridge season. “Oriental poppies are fantastic perennials that can be used in different garden styles and come in a range of captivating colours like ‘Beauty of Livermere’,” says Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly. “Unlike many other poppies, their perennial characteristics mean that you don’t have to prepare the ground for them every year.” 13) P. orientale ‘Black and White’ COMMON NAME(S): oriental poppy ‘black and white’ HARDINESS RATING: H7 FLOWERS: black and white You can’t get more basic than ‘Black and White’, but you can’t get more riveting either, for this stunner exhibits the ultimate contrast: pure white and hard black. The bowl-shaped flower is composed of gently ruffled petals that are pure white but with a very large black basal blotch. It is then centred by a dark maroon boss. This perennial reaches 50-60cm in height and produces flowers through much of the middle part of summer. This plant has received the RHS Award of Garden Merit. 14) P. orientale ‘Flamingo’ COMMON NAME(S): oriental poppy ‘flamingo’ HARDINESS RATING: H7 FLOWERS: orange and white ‘Flamingo’ produces a double-form picotee flower that is big and bowl-shaped. It is composed of crinkly, ruffled petals that are white with a light, but wide and irregular, orange border rippling along their wavy edges. The overall effect is simply sumptuous. This perennial rises to nearly 80cm and conveniently produces flowers over the bridge season, spanning from spring to summer. 15) P. orientale ‘Pinnacle’ COMMON NAME(S): oriental poppy ‘pinnacle’ HARDINESS RATING: H7 FLOWERS: orange and white A special cultivar because of the unusual, eye-pulling colour combination, ‘Pinnacle’ has a bowl-shaped flower made up of crinkly, ruffled petals. These petals are white on their inner halves and in tones of orange on their outer halves. They can seem to glow in the early morning or evening sunlight. The flower has a browny-black boss. This perennial grows to 70-75cm tall and also flowers during spring and summer. 16) P. orientale ‘Carmen’ COMMON NAME(S): oriental poppy ‘carmen’ HARDINESS RATING: H7 FLOWERS: red ‘Carmen’ bears bowl-shaped flowers that are especially large, with petals that are only lightly ruffled. They vary in colour, occurring in tones of vermilion and scarlet. The petals have very small black spots at their bases and the flower has a brown-black boss. This perennial also flowers over the spring-summer bridge season. It grows to only about 40cm in height. 17) P. rhoeas ‘Supreme’ COMMON NAME(S): poppy ‘supreme’ HARDINESS RATING: H7 FLOWERS: red, pink, white and orange A Chelsea near-miss from 2021, ‘Supreme’ is sure to prove a smash hit with gardeners.2 The fully double-form flowers are semi-dome-shaped and huge at up to 15cm wide. These picotee and bicoloured flowers are composed of frilly, ruffled petals that are variably flushed, tinged, margined or gradated, either delicately or boldly. Colours cover baby pink through cherry pink to the rose-red spectrum. Best of all, this captivating cultivar may be the longest bloomer amongst poppies, as it flowers all through summer, potentially seeping into spring and autumn. An annual, it grows to 70-75cm in height. References 1. Imperial War Museums. (n.d.). Why We Wear Poppies On Remembrance Day. Retrieved March 23, 2023, from https://www.iwm.org.uk/history/why-we-wear-poppies-on-remembrance-day 2. Rice, G. (2018, January 3). Graham Rice new plants blog: Supreme new poppy. Royal Horticultural Society. Retrieved March 23, 2023, from https://www.rhs.org.uk/plants/plants-blogs/plants/january-2018/papaver-rhoeas-supreme
Learn more
