Growing
Choose Shorter Cultivars When Growing Cosmos In Pots Says Elizabeth Waddington
IN THIS GUIDE Containers For Cosmos Compost For Cosmos Potting Up Cosmos Potted Cosmos Care Cosmos are pretty flowers that come in a range of hues. There are many named cultivars of cosmos, usually from C. bipinnatus, which is a variety popular for growing in gardens. Other popular varieties include C. sulphureus and C. atrosanguineus. They are commonly used in cottage gardens, in gardens with a prairie planting style and are also used to attract pollinators as a companion crop in an annual vegetable garden. Difficulty Easy Equipment Required Pots, potting compost, cosmos plant or seeds, hand trowel Cosmos can be a good choice for containers, though shorter cultivars will be easier to grow in this way. There are cosmos that grow up to 1m in height, but those closer to 30cm will be easier to grow in pots. Some cosmos cultivars that are good choices for a container garden include the Somata series, which are compact cosmos that grow to around 30cm tall. The somewhat taller Apollo series, which grows to around 65cm in height, and the Sensation series, which grows to between 0.5-1m, are also good choices. Containers For Cosmos When choosing a container for your cosmos, you should choose a pot that is at least 30cm across and has several drainage holes at the base. A heavier container will be less likely to topple or blow over as the plants grow which can be important if you are growing taller varieties. Compost For Cosmos Cosmos need a moist but free-draining growing medium that is moderately fertile. To grow cosmos successfully in pots you need to choose a compost mix or potting medium that provides these conditions. Cosmos are relatively unfussy when it comes to specific soil types or pH, but the moist conditions and good drainage are both key to success when growing these plants in a container. A good quality peat-free multipurpose compost with some added grit for drainage or a homemade equivalent will be just fine when filling containers for cosmos. Potting Up Cosmos Cosmos is relatively easy to grow from seed or, alternatively, you can purchase young bedding plants in pots. Whether you have grown your own cosmos from seed or purchased bedding plants, you should pot them up into the container in which they will spend the summer months. When potting up cosmos, make sure that the plants are placed at the same depth that they were at in their previous pots or you can risk putting them slightly deeper if seedlings have become leggy when sown indoors. How Many Cosmos Plants Per Pot? How many cosmos you can plant in a container will, of course, depend on the variety you are growing and on the size of the container that you have chosen. One thing to note is that you can get away with planting cosmos at around half the spacing usually recommended when growing in the ground to create dense and good-looking displays. Another thing that will determine how many plants you can place in a certain container is whether you are only growing cosmos or are instead creating a mixed display with other flowering plants. Cosmos can look good in mixed containers along with a range of other cheerful annuals or with different cosmos varieties. Potted Cosmos Care Cosmos are generally relatively easy plants to care for as long as you place them in the right position and care for them correctly. To make sure that your cosmos thrives, position your pots in a relatively warm spot in full sun. A south or west-facing position is ideal. Provide some support for some taller varieties of cosmos that may need it. Water your cosmos during dry spells throughout the summer months, remembering that plants in containers will typically need to be watered more frequently than those growing in the ground. Make sure that excess water can always drain away freely, as cosmos cannot cope with waterlogged conditions. Feed your cosmos in containers, once when they are in bud and then while they are in bloom, with a potassium-rich organic liquid plant feed to promote healthy flowers and prolong the flowering period. Provide this while watering every couple of weeks for the best results. If you have grown from seed, pinch out the growing tips of young plants once they have 2-3 sets of true leaves to promote bushiness of form and more abundant flower production. Deadhead cosmos when the flowers fade to promote further flower growth and prolong the period of blooming. “A common mistake when dead-heading is muddling new and spent blooms,” shares Master Horticulturist Peter Lickorish. “The ones to remove are those which are both elongated and soft, whereas new buds are firmer and more rounded.” Look out for pests and diseases. Although they are generally untroubled by much, cosmos plants can be decimated by slugs, especially during the early stages of their growth, as Peter explains further: “Slugs and snails can be pests of cosmos, but growing them in containers gives the option of lining the pot rims with copper. “Wool pellets can be used as a mulch across the top of the pot too as another form of defence.” Overwinter your cosmos in a frost-free location if you are growing a more tender perennial cosmos, like C. atrosanguineus. If you are growing this rather than an annual, you will have to give it shelter over the coldest part of the year or propagate the plants by dividing the tubers when you lift the plants to store over winter.
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How To Prepare And Sow Buddleja Seeds For New Plants (They Should Grow Very Fast)
IN THIS GUIDE 1) Prepare The Seeds 2) Sow Your Buddleja Seeds 3) Place In A Suitable Spot 4) Water Seedlings Regularly 5) Pot On Into Larger Containers 6) Care For Establishing Plants Buddlejas are renowned for the brilliant little flowers that they produce in profusion all summer long, often on conical spikes or panicles. Buddlejas are long-lived perennials, with most varieties being deciduous. As such, once you have grown a young plant, you are sure to enjoy many years of pleasure from it. If you’re wondering how to obtain a young buddleja shrub, then this is the guide for you – simply follow these steps: Prepare the buddleja seeds before sowing, ensuring they have spent an adequate amount of time below freezing point. Sow the seeds in a tray with modules filled with a damp growing medium. Place the tray in a suitable location – a propagator can be useful for providing the right growing conditions. Regularly water the buddleja seeds. Pot on and care for the seedlings, especially in the early stages of growth. Provide the right aftercare for your buddleja, guarding against frost before transplanting into open ground. This process is explained in more depth below. Difficulty Medium Equipment Required Gardening gloves, sprayer, small watering can, hand trowel When To Sow April 1) Prepare The Seeds Buddleja seeds need to be prepped before they can be sown, as Horticultural Lecturer Peter Lickorish explains: “Harvest spent flower stems in the autumn and place these in paper bags, or even better hang them, to let seeds to drop out.” In the winter, place the seeds in a seed packet or envelope if they are loose, then place them in a plastic bag. This should be kept in the freezer for 4-5 weeks. Two months before the last expected frost, remove the plastic bag and keep it in a cool place. 2) Sow Your Buddleja Seeds About 2 weeks before the last expected frost, take a modular seed tray with compartments and prepare it with a seed starter compost mix. Water so that the medium is damp, but take care not to overwater. Buddleja seeds have excellent germination rates, so only sow 1-2 per compartment. These seeds need light, consistent moisture and humid conditions to germinate. However, they are very small and lightweight, so watering might move them about. Therefore, to sow, gently nudge the seeds into the medium, but do not cover them. Thoroughly dampen the medium using a sprayer, or alternatively, water with a small watering can. 3) Place In A Suitable Spot Place the tray near a window where it will receive ample filtered, but not direct, sunlight. The ambient temperature should be around 21°C. What will be lacking in UK conditions is sufficient humidity to ensure germination at high rates. To simulate these humid conditions, improvise a low-rise tent or propagator lid over the seed tray. With the support of pencil stubs placed at the 4 corners of the seed tray, put a piece of cling film or a clear plastic sheet over and around the tray. 4) Water Seedlings Regularly Water the tray so that the medium is kept consistently moist. Watering may be done by heavily misting with a spray bottle or sprinkling over water with a small watering can, making sure to keep the rose close to the tray. “Watering young seedlings without dislodging them can be tricky,” shares Peter. “I find it easiest to place a tray or pot saucer underneath and part-fill this with water, allowing the seed tray to soak up the water it needs for a couple of hours. “Then, lift it from the water, allow it to drain, and finally return it to its original position.” The seeds should germinate in about 20 days. Once they do, remove the cling film. As the seedlings grow, start to expose them to morning sunlight. 5) Pot On Into Larger Containers After the seedlings have put out 4 true leaves, they are ready to be moved into individual pots. Prepare the appropriate number of small pots with any potting mix, prise out each little plant’s module with its soil ball from the tray and repot into a container with drainage holes. “If you have to handle the plant, hold only the leaf and not the stem, as damaging the stem could be fatal,” warns Peter. At this early stage, keep the plant where it is sheltered from winds and in partial shade. “It is important to gradually wean plants off from indoor conditions to the harsher weather outside,” Peter shares. Keep watering the young plant every other day. Gradually decrease the amount and frequency of water and start to increase the plant’s exposure to sunlight. 6) Care For Establishing Plants When autumn comes around, be sure to guard against frosts and wind. Although the vast majority of varieties are hardy to H6, even mature plants should not be kept in an unsheltered spot or exposed to hard frosts. Most buddleja varieties are incredibly fast growers. The very next year, in spring or summer, you will need to pot on the plant or transplant it in open ground. A mature buddleja plant needs to be kept well-pruned and most varieties do best in a full-sun location.
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Emily Cupit's Trusted 5 Step Process For Sowing Cosmos Seeds Each Year
IN THIS GUIDE 1) Source Or Collect Your Seeds 2) Decide Where To Grow Your Cosmos 3) Sow The Seeds 4) Prick Out & Pot On If Required 5) Harden Off & Plant Out Cosmos are herbaceous flowering plants that belong to a Mexico-native genus. The most common cosmos to grow in British gardens is C. bipinnatus, also known as cosmea or garden cosmos. This is a half-hardy annual tolerating light frosts with daisy-like blooms in a range of hues that is, luckily, relatively easy to grow from seed. To grow cosmos from seed: Choose which cosmos you will grow and source or collect the seeds. Decide where to grow your cosmos – and if you’d like to grow indoors before transplanting or grow them directly outdoors. Sow seeds outdoors between March and May – or potentially even earlier if you are growing indoors. If you have sown your seeds indoors, prick out and pot on your seedlings. Harden off and plant out your cosmos seedings after the risk of frost has passed. Read on for a more detailed description of the steps above. Difficulty Easy Equipment Required Seeds, seed trays or pots, growing medium When To Sow March to May When To Plant Out April to May 1) Source Or Collect Your Seeds First of all, you should decide which cosmos variety you would like to grow. You can choose from lots of named varietals. When you are trying to decide which cosmos you would like, you should, of course, think about the colour and form of the blooms. However, you should also consider how tall the variety will grow, since some grow much taller than others. Many cosmos are compact and grow to only around 30cm in height, while others can grow to around 1m. Cosmos seeds are widely available online and in garden centres. If you or someone you know has some attractive cosmos, you might also be able to save seeds from those plants to sow the following year. 2) Decide Where To Grow Your Cosmos Cosmos are a useful and versatile flower that can be grown in a range of settings. They will do well in moist but free-draining soil. It is best to grow them in full sun, though they do not mind too much about the soil pH or about exposure. Cosmos can work well in many beds and borders and can be a great addition to a prairie scheme or cottage garden. You might also consider growing cosmos as a companion plant in your annual kitchen garden, as many varieties are great for drawing in bees and other pollinators. 3) Sow The Seeds Sow your cosmos seeds in spring. They can either be sown indoors in March or April or they can be sown outdoors once the last frost date has passed where you live. If you are sowing indoors, which is generally the better option here to protect from pests like slugs, place the seeds on top of your seed tray or pots that are filled with suitable seed compost. Cover them over with a little layer of the medium. For best germination, keep temperatures at around 16°C. An indoor propagator can be handy, though a simple zip-lock bag can also be used to help keep seedlings warm and humidity high. If you’d prefer to directly sow your seeds outdoors, you can sow thinly in rows or broadcast cosmos seeds into a prepared bed in a suitable location. 4) Prick Out & Pot On If Required If you have sown the cosmos seeds outdoors, then you simply have to wait and care for your cosmos as they grow. If you’ve sown cosmos seeds inside, then you should prick out the seedlings from their seed trays or pots once they are big enough to deal with and pot them on. 5) Harden Off & Plant Out Then, once there is no longer any risk of frost where you live, you can harden off your cosmos, slowly acclimatising them to the outdoor conditions, before you plant them out into their final growing positions. “As the plants grow, pinching out the growing shoots after three or four pairs of leaves have formed, helps to create bushier plants with more flowers,” shares Roy Nicol, a Master Horticulturist. Once you have your cosmos in a suitable location in your garden, they may well self-seed, so you can enjoy these flowers in your garden over a number of years and won’t necessarily have to start from scratch and sow new seeds each spring.
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Here's How Horticulturists Propagate Ceanothus From Semi-Ripe Or Softwood Cuttings
IN THIS GUIDE Semi-Ripe Cuttings Softwood Cuttings Ceanothus is an attractive shrub and if you have one growing in your garden, you may well want more. These shrubs can be challenging to grow from seed, but the good news is that some ceanothus can be propagated relatively easily by means of cuttings. The method for taking cuttings depends on whether you are growing an evergreen or deciduous ceanothus. Evergreen ceanothus is best propagated by means of semi-ripe cuttings, taken between mid-summer and early autumn, whilst deciduous types are best propagated by softwood cuttings, taken in late spring. Both of these processes are relatively simple and ceanothus cuttings should create new flowering plants in around 2-3 years. I explain this relatively simple process in more detail below. Difficulty Easy to medium Equipment Required Gardening knife, secateurs, propagator When To Take Cuttings May to September Semi-Ripe Cuttings Between mid-summer and early autumn, select a healthy side shoot of current season growth from an evergreen ceanothus. Aim for around 10-15cm of growth. Peel the side shoot away from the main stem, leaving a small sliver of bark (known as a heel) attached. Dip the end of the cutting in a rooting compound for best results. Place the cutting in a heated propagator, in a container filled with a suitable potting mix, such as a blend of peat-free compost and perlite. A 1-litre pot is ideal and cuttings should be inserted to between a half and two-thirds their length. Grow on and continue to tend, watering when required, and cuttings should root well over the next growing season. Plant out well-rooted cuttings when the weather warms during the second spring. Softwood Cuttings Between late spring and midsummer, select a healthy, non-flowering stem tip of new growth from deciduous ceanothus. “For softwood cuttings, trim the bottom of the cutting to just below a node,” says Peter Lickorish, a Lecturer in Horticulture. Create a cutting around 10-15cm in length and then dip the cutting in a rooting hormone for best results. “Place it half to two-thirds deep in a finely crumbled peat-free compost,” Peter recommends. Keep the cuttings in a warm, humid environment for 4-6 weeks until they root. Once well-rooted, the cuttings can be potted on and later planted out into the garden. “Rotting and fungal problems are always concerns when taking cuttings,” Peter shares. “I find that pinching out the top bud and any tiny leaves at the top prevents these from rotting and the rot from spreading down the cutting. “Also, remove the lower half to two-thirds of the leaves on Ceanothus cuttings, by pinching them or trimming them delicately with a knife, to prevent these rotting when they touch the compost.”
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Ceanothus Leaves Turning Brown Or Yellow Are A Common Sign That Something Is Wrong
IN THIS GUIDE Brown Leaves 1) Frost Damage 2) Wind Burn 3) Water Issues Yellow Leaves 4) Over Or Under Watering 5) Nutrient Shortage Ceanothus can be relatively easy shrubs to grow. However, they can be rather picky about where they are grown and, if you place one of these shrubs in the wrong position or care for it incorrectly, there are a number of things that can go wrong. Leaves turning brown or yellow are common signs that something is wrong. Brown leaves are commonly a sign of: Frost damage Wind burn Water issues Yellow leaves can be a sign of: Waterlogged soil or water shortages Nutrient problems Read on to find out more about what might be causing this discolouration on your ceanothus leaves. Brown Leaves Brown leaves on a ceanothus plant are usually a sign that something is not right with the environmental conditions in which you are growing your plant. 1) Frost Damage Most commonly, brown leaves on a ceanothus are caused by frost damage. Ceanothus plants are somewhat hardy but can suffer damage during extreme winters or in colder and more exposed locations. Fortunately, a little frost damage can be removed and the plant should usually recover. 2) Wind Burn Brown leaves can also be caused by wind burn. It is important to grow ceanothus in as sheltered a position as possible, as winds can cause leaves to dry out more quickly than water can be replenished, causing them to brown and die back. 3) Water Issues Water shortage can be the reason for brown leaves, but it is important to work out whether that damage is caused by an actual lack of water availability or due to root damage, meaning that plants can’t take up the water they need. Root damage is frequently caused by waterlogged soil, which may also lead to a fungal infection. Ceanothus does need good drainage, so if your plant does not thrive, this is always one of the first things to look at. Yellow Leaves Yellow leaves on a ceanothus shrub are not always a cause for concern. Some leaves will naturally yellow and drop off as part of the natural life cycle of the plant. However, yellow leaves on a ceanothus shrub could also be a sign of an issue with water. ‘’While Ceanothus require watering while establishing, it’s crucial the soil drains well so the roots do not become waterlogged, and the application of a mulch of organic matter will improve the soil,” adds Master Horticulturist Roy Nicols. “Once established, Ceanothus does not require regular watering and only needs a good soak in drought conditions. “Overwatering is the most common mistake made when growing this plant.” 4) Over Or Under Watering Most commonly, yellow leaves are a sign of either overwatering or underwatering. Ceanothus are reasonably drought tolerant but can be rather fussy when it comes to their water needs. If you have yellow leaves, you might have watered too much or too little, or you might be growing your ceanothus in a spot that is not ideally suited to its growth. 5) Nutrient Shortage Yellow leaves can also be a sign of a nutrient problem. Leaves can become yellow or discoloured due to a nutrient deficiency in shallow, chalky soil. You may also have over-fertilised your plant. Of course, brown and yellow leaves can also indicate other problems such as pests or diseases. However, when looking for a cause, you should always look first at the environmental conditions to make sure the fundamentals are correct and that you are growing your ceanothus in the right place and the right way.
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Marigolds Make Amazing Companion Plants - Here's Why You Should Grow Them
IN THIS GUIDE Why Marigolds Make Great Companion Plants 1) Attracting Beneficial Wildlife 2) Trap Crop 3) Pest Repellent 4) Reduce Nematodes 5) Chopped & Dropped 6) Additional Yields 7) Ground Cover References Tagetes marigolds are attractive flowers which bloom over a relatively long period in the summer garden. There are several different types to choose from that can be grown as annuals in a UK garden. One of the great things about them is that they are pretty easy to grow from seed, fairly low-maintenance and, when positioned in the right location, they will readily self-seed and pop up again each year rather than having to be sown anew each spring. Marigolds, especially certain French marigolds, also make excellent companion plants. They can be beneficial companions for almost every crop you might grow in your kitchen garden. Why Marigolds Make Great Companion Plants French marigolds, Tagetes patula, are commonly planted in vegetable gardens because they are known to be excellent companions for a wide range of crops that are grown alongside them. The main reasons that marigolds make great companion plants is that they: Attract beneficial insects to the space. Serve as a trap crop for certain pests. Help to repel certain pest species with a secretion of limonene. May help to reduce harmful nematodes in the soil. Can be used as a chop-and-drop plant to maintain soil health. Provide a number of additional yields. Create good ground cover without increasing competition too much. We explain each of these benefits in more detail below. 1) Attracting Beneficial Wildlife Marigolds bloom over a relatively long period, providing nectar for a wide range of bees, butterflies and other pollinators. Many marigolds are therefore an excellent flower to draw pollinators into your vegetable garden where they are needed for the pollination of insect-pollinated crops. “Marigold ‘Burning Embers’ is one of my favourite varieties because the pollinators love it,” shares Ann-Marie Powell, a Garden Designer and TV Personality. “If you get the pollinators into your veg plot or patch, they will pollinate your vegetable flowers for you so you get higher yields.” Some insect-pollinated crops in a food-producing garden that could benefit from having marigolds nearby, for this reason, are tomatoes, peppers, squash, courgettes, cucumbers, as well as many fruit trees, cane fruits and berry bushes. Marigolds also attract insects that prey on pest species, such as ladybirds, hoverflies, lacewings and parasitic wasps. These keep down populations of aphids and can keep an ecosystem balanced so you don’t experience too much damage to your crops. This means that any crops bothered by aphids or other insect pests eaten by these predatory insects could benefit from having marigolds growing close by. 2) Trap Crop Marigolds can also potentially be used as a trap crop for several pest species. Trap crops attract the attention of pests, thereby keeping them off more valuable crop species in your garden. Marigolds can, in particular, be a beneficial trap crop for slugs. When placed around the edge of a kitchen garden bed as a sacrificial trap crop, they will draw slugs to them. Though some plants may be lost, you can collect slugs up before they threaten your other plants (if they are not picked off by other wildlife you should be attracting to your space). “Fascinatingly, chemicals exuded by the roots of Tagetes minuta have been shown to repel weeds such as couch grass and bindweed,” adds Master Horticulturist Peter Lickorish. 3) Pest Repellent French marigolds may also repel certain pest species. There is some evidence that suggests, for example, that they may help, at least partially, to keep cabbage moths away. Studies have also shown that the limonene they excrete can help somewhat in repelling whiteflies from the area.1 So, marigolds may be a beneficial companion for brassica (cabbage family crops) and any plants bothered by whiteflies for these reasons. 4) Reduce Nematodes One other way that marigolds are said to be useful as a companion plant is due to their ability to kill off nematodes in the soil that can pose a problem for crops. There are both beneficial and detrimental nematodes in garden soil. These are tiny, thread-like organisms and there are many nematodes that we need – and many that may become a problem for home growers. Marigolds produce compounds known as nematicides in their roots, but things are not quite as simple and clean-cut as some people believe.2 When certain nematodes attack certain French marigolds, they are killed off in that specific location and see a reduction in their numbers, but we cannot usually determine which nematodes we have in our soil, nor whether the marigolds we grow will truly be effective against them. Marigolds might also excrete a chemical that can repel nematodes in the surrounding area, though scientific consensus is lacking at present on whether or not this is the case. The science is currently inconclusive about whether companion planting with marigolds can help with nematode issues for nearby plants. What we do know, however, is that plants that follow marigolds immediately after them in rotation are less likely to be struck by nematode problems (such as root rot), especially when the marigolds’ roots are left in the ground after they have been growing in a particular area for 3-4 months. Certain varieties produce more of the nematicides and therefore can be more effective where this is a concern. They work best when planted closely spaced in a block. 5) Chopped & Dropped There is some evidence to suggest that marigolds chopped and dropped on the surface of the soil when the growing season comes to an end may also help with nematode issues. Dead plant matter won’t kill nematodes, but can promote healthy populations of soil biota that can help keep harmful nematode numbers lower overall. Also, since marigolds laid as mulch on the soil improve the soil health, this is also of benefit more broadly for a wide range of crops and other plants. 6) Additional Yields Marigolds also provide us with additional yields, which is another reason why they make a good companion plant to include in your vegetable gardens. Not only are they beneficial for other crops, they can also provide us with edible petals that can be used as a garnish. Scented French marigolds yield an essential oil that is used in perfumery and many types make wonderful cut flowers for home displays. 7) Ground Cover Marigolds also make good almost universal companion plants in a vegetable garden because when planted between or around other crops, they cover the soil, protecting it, conserving moisture and suppressing weeds. In doing so, they don’t take up too much water or nutrients that could affect the growth of other plants growing close by. They are not heavy feeders, so won’t introduce too much competition into your growing areas. Of course, you always still have to take sunlight, water and space requirements into account when planning where to put marigolds. As you can see from the above, marigolds can be a near-universal companion plant for your kitchen garden, so it is a great idea to grow them in a number of different polyculture combinations. Just make sure that your marigolds still get plenty of sun through the summer and they should thrive, helping other nearby plants to do the same. References 1. How the humble marigold outsmarts a devastating tomato pest. (2019, March 1). Newcastle University: Press Office. Retrieved March 21, 2023, from https://www.ncl.ac.uk/press/articles/archive/2019/03/whiteflieslimonene/ 2. Kruger, R., Dover, K., McSorley, R., & Wang, K. (2019, December 2). Marigolds (Tagetes spp.) for Nematode Management. University of Florida. Retrieved March 21, 2023, from https://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/publication/NG045
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Tagetes Marigolds Are Easily Grown From Seed - And Can Flower In As Little As 60 Days
IN THIS GUIDE Choosing A Variety When To Sow Tagetes Sowing Indoors Direct Sowing When we talk about marigolds in the UK, we might be talking about a number of different plants. Marigolds such as French and African marigolds are members of the Tagetes genus, but Calendula (Calendula officinalis) are also referred to as ‘Pot Marigolds’ here in the UK. In this guide, we are talking about Tagetes marigolds, which luckily, are very easy to sow. Difficulty Easy Equipment Required Seeds, seed tray, pots, growing medium When To Sow March to May When To Plant Out May to July Choosing A Variety There are several different types of marigolds that you might grow in your garden. The first thing that you will have to think about if you are considering growing these annuals from seed is which species and variety you would like to grow. French Marigolds You might consider: French marigolds (T. patula) African marigolds (T. erecta) Signet marigolds (T. tenuifolia) There are, of course, plenty of named varieties that you might choose within each of these categories. How you set about planting Marigold seeds is very much dependent on two factors: your geographical region and the Marigold type, viz. T. erecta versus T. patula – ‘African Marigold’ versus ‘French Marigold’. This is because T. patula cultivars come into flower within only 60 days while T. erecta cultivars usually need at least 75 days and even up to 100 to bloom. In conjunction with that, consider your region’s growing season – in the north and Midlands it will be shorter than in the south-west of the country. In most regions you should be able to plant T. patula cultivar seeds directly outdoors and enjoy a long blooming season. With T. erecta cultivars, your region’s growing season will dictate whether you can plant seeds outdoors or whether you should start them indoors. So, for example, in Leeds, with an average growing season of 163 days, if you sow seeds directly outdoors (not that we recommend it) you can enjoy T. patula Marigolds for three months but it would be a waste to sow T. erecta directly outdoors. When To Sow Tagetes When you will sow your marigolds will depend on whether you plan to sow them indoors or sow them directly where they are to grow in your garden. Typically, marigolds are sown between March and May. When planting indoors, you should aim to sow towards the beginning of this time period, and outdoor sowing should be carried out only after you pass the last frost date in your area. Refer back to the guidelines above and the different marigold types to plan when best to sow yours. Sowing Indoors If you decide to sow your marigold seeds indoors, prepare a seed tray or other containers filled with good quality compost that is rich, moist yet free-draining. A seed-starting compost is ideal. Scatter the marigold seeds over the surface of the growing medium, then cover them lightly (to a depth of around 5mm) with a little of your growing medium. The seeds should germinate relatively quickly, as long as you keep the trays or pots in a warm place. Marigold seeds do not need direct light to germinate but they do need the right temperature, and humidity is preferable. Soil temperature should hover around 21°C for the seeds to germinate. You can introduce humidity by covering (but not sealing) the pots with cling film or shrink wrap. You can usually expect them to germinate in 5-7 days or so. Once the seedlings are around 4-5cm tall, prick them out and pot them on into their own individual containers and grow them in a frost-free location until all risk of frost has passed in your area. Once all risk of frost has passed, you can harden off then plant out your young marigolds in the garden in a sheltered position that gets plenty of full sun. They should begin to bloom within a matter of weeks. Direct Sowing If you decide to sow marigold seeds outside where they are to grow, then you should make sure that you do so after the risk of frost has passed in your area. In late spring, prepare the area for sowing by clearing weeds and raking the soil level. “When sowing outdoors, especially in drifts, I find something called the stale seedbed technique very useful,” shares Master Horticulturist Peter Lickorish. “This means preparing the ground thoroughly a few weeks before you intend to sow, including forking and then raking to consolidate. “This gives a few weeks for any weed seeds, brought to the surface by your hard work, to germinate. “These can be lifted carefully, with minimal disturbance, and the ground can be sown into. “It should reduce the number of weed seeds which germinate later and then interlope among a drift of marigolds.” If planting into a bed or border, top dress this with well-rotted homemade compost. If you wish to grow marigolds in containers, fill these with a peat-free multipurpose mix, making sure that the soil is moist before planting. Just like when sowing indoors, cover the seeds only lightly. They should germinate well and relatively quickly. You can then simply thin the seedlings that emerge to give a final spacing of 10-20cm, depending on the specific variety that you have chosen to grow. They should also flower within weeks of sowing as long as they are in the right position and cared for correctly.
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A Light Annual Prune Can Bring Out The Best Of Your Heather - Irene Lang Shares How
IN THIS GUIDE Pruning Erica Varieties Pruning Daboecia Varieties Pruning Calluna Varieties Although heathers do not need to be pruned, a light annual prune will bring out the best in your heather. However, how and when you prune is influenced by the type of heather you are growing in your garden. Heathers are classified into three genera that boast a wide range of species: Erica, Calluna and Daboecia. Also, heathers bloom at different times of the year and, as a result, these plants are further divided into summer-flowering and winter-flowering types. Underneath we guide you on how to keep that lushness and drama going year after year. Difficulty Medium Equipment Required Gardening gloves, secateurs, pruning shears When To Prune Depends on the variety Pruning Erica Varieties Some species of Erica, specifically E. arborea, E. australis, and E. lusitanica are, rather misleadingly, known as tree heathers. Although they are not trees as such, they are bigger than other heathers and early pruning encourages somewhat tree-like branching in some varieties. Prune varieties of these heathers in their second and third years only to encourage a full, bushy form and tree-like branching. “Trimming is essential to keep plants bushy and to prevent long ‘leggy’ growth,” says Irene Lang, the Owner of Perthshire Heathers. “A light pruning after flowering is recommended.” Though some of them flower in spring and others in autumn, do your pruning in late autumn. Simply trim all the stems by up to one-fourth. These are among the only heathers that can be hard pruned, but we do not recommend any pruning after the first 3 years, except to remove spent blooms and old and dead wood. “I have found that removing older, rangy branches of E. arborea with growth only right at the top, promotes a growth response at the base of the plant and allows light in to allow it to develop,” says Horticultural Consultant Colin Skelly. “Removing one-third of the straggliest branches every year for 3 years should serve to renovate your tree heather.” Erica varieties flower on the previous year’s growth, whether they are summer-flowering types or winter-flowering ones. A light annual prune is usually beneficial. They may be pruned shortly after flowering, before fresh growth emerges. Summer-flowering types should be pruned in October and winter-flowering ones in late March to early April. Simply give the plant a light prune, trimming any stems that may be growing at awkward angles or are protruding. The objective is to shape the plants and encourage bushiness. In any case do not trim to the wood. Other Erica Hybrids Some Erica hybrids, including E. × darleyensis, E. × watsonii and E. × williamsii, can not only withstand severe pruning but can even benefit from it. In addition to the type of pruning described above for Erica heathers, every 2-3 years you can prune these hybrids and their cultivars by up to 50% of the overall plant. They will regenerate very well and produce copious blooms on fresh growth. Pruning Daboecia Varieties Daboecia varieties should be pruned in the first half of March. Trim flowering shoots to encourage fresh blooms but leave behind the previous year’s growth. Trim the stems by up to one-fourth, especially if they have become straggly. This will spur fresh growth and will also prevent the plant from becoming leggy. Do not, in any case, trim a stem down to the wood. Pruning Calluna Varieties Calluna varieties should be pruned in the first half of March. They flower on the current year’s growth. Trim the previous year’s flowering shoots but leave behind any fresh shoots that may have emerged. Avoid pruning Calluna any further.
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Grow These 18 Companion Plants With Peonies Says Little Budds Peony Farm
IN THIS GUIDE Companion Planting With Peonies Plants To Grow Alongside Peonies Plants To Grow Over Peonies Plants To Grow Under Peonies Other Considerations Plants To Avoid With Peonies Growing peonies can be a great choice for many gardens. They can work particularly well in a cottage garden scheme, but what should you grow alongside and around your prized peony plants? Companion Planting With Peonies Companion planting peonies is all about choosing plants which: Will cope with similar growing conditions to peonies (full sun or partial shade, fertile, moist yet free-draining soil). Will not compete overly with peonies or be too impacted by their growth. Which look good in planting schemes alongside these flowers. You might think about companion plants that: Bloom at the same time as peonies. Flower before your peonies emerge to ensure that your displays look good before the peony flowers. Are in flower after peony flowers finish for the year. Improve environmental conditions for peonies. “In my own garden I have a variety of perennials and bulbs growing around the peonies,” says Kate Blacker from specialist nursery Little Budds Peony Farm. “You don’t want to be disturbing soiI close by. I use delphiniums as a backdrop to show them off and fragrant roses to extend the season of the border.” “Try not to grow anything that will creep into that 1x1m space” – a rough guideline to the area peonies need to grow uninhibited. Carol Adelman from the Pacific Northwest Peony Society also grows Delphinium with her peonies: “Companion plants I grow include iris, delphinium, dianthus, heuchera, thalictrum, scabiosa, armeria, petunias, dusty miller, foxglove, and phlox.” “I interplant the peonies with spring bulbs,” says Joan, Secretary of the Canadian Peony Society. “Purple irises, including tall, bearded, and Siberian varieties, bloom at the same time and work nicely with peonies. “I also have daylilies in front of my peonies for July and August colour.” Plants To Grow Alongside Peonies Lilac Roses Hydrangeas Azaleas Alliums Day Lilies Irises Foxgloves Delphiniums Lupins Plants To Grow Over Peonies “The planting combination you choose will reflect the style of garden that you have,” shares Colin Skelly, a Master Horticulturist. “Lupins and Delphinium would lend themselves to a looser, cottage garden style whilst Alliums and Iris could be used in a more regulated, formal arrangement.” There are quite a number of trees that work well in the space above peony plants. Amelanchier Cherry Tree Plum Tree Magnolia Dogwood Plants To Grow Under Peonies Mediterranean Herbs Salvias Spring Bulbs Other Considerations Of course, these are just a handful of suggestions and there are plenty of other plants that will make excellent companion plants for peonies. Just remember to space and position plants correctly according to their size and form, and make sure you leave your peonies enough space to avoid damage or too much competition around the roots. As well as considering flowering plants, you might also consider foliage plants such as smaller evergreen shrubs, ornamental grasses or other plants like heucheras or hostas. Another thing to consider is growing more edible perennials around your edible peonies. You might also place perennial vegetables like alliums and brassicas intermingled with ornamental flowering plants. Plants To Avoid With Peonies Avoid planting any aggressive ground cover plants close to peonies, since these can compete too much with peonies and may strangle the roots and crowd the crowns of your plants. As long as you remember to keep competition in mind and think about the conditions that peonies and other plants prefer, you could not find it too challenging to develop a beautiful planting scheme with peonies and a wide range of other plants.
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