Growing
Transplant Your Leeks Like This To Get Them Off To The Best Possible Start
IN THIS GUIDE 1) Prepare Your Growing Area 2) Make Planting Holes 3) Lower Into Holes 4) Water In Well 5) Add Organic Mulch 6) Consider Protection Whether you purchase young plants or grow your own from seed, one important thing to understand about leeks is how to transplant them into their final growing positions in your garden. Getting things right when it comes to transplanting leeks is important because it ensures that the leeks get off to the best possible start, which makes it more likely that you will obtain a good harvest of well-sized veg later in the year. Leeks are transplanted into a garden between April and June. When exactly you will transplant leeks into their final growing positions will depend on when and where they were sown, and, of course, on the conditions where you live. To transplant leeks: Prepare your growing area in a position that gets plenty of sun. Use a wooden handle or stick to make planting holes wider than the young leek plants. Lower one leek at a time into each of these holes. Water well so the holes fill back in with soil. Add an organic mulch around your plants. Consider adding cover such as netting to protect your plants while they are small. Difficulty Easy Equipment Required Wood handle or stick, cover 1) Prepare Your Growing Area Leeks like a position in full sun, with a moist yet free-draining, rich and fertile growing medium enriched with plenty of organic matter. Make sure that you prepare the vegetable patch, raised bed or deep container for your leeks so that they provide these conditions before you begin the transplantation process. 2) Make Planting Holes Using a wooden handle or a stick of a similar width, make holes in your prepared growing area to provide spaces for your young leeks to be planted. This method helps ensure that your leeks can expand, as they should widen up ready for harvesting later in the year. The holes should be around 15-20cm deep and 15cm apart, though you can space leeks more closely if you want to harvest them as baby leeks while they are still relatively small. 3) Lower Into Holes Once you have made your holes, lower one of your young leeks into one, making sure that the roots are down in the base of the hole by moving your hand with a slight twisting motion. 4) Water In Well Carefully making sure that you do not wash the tops of the young leeks below the soil, water the plants in well, filling each hole with water. Done correctly, the holes should refill with soil and hold your young leeks gently in position. 5) Add Organic Mulch To maintain fertility in your growing area, it is a good idea to add a mulch of homemade compost or another fine organic material around your leeks. The mulch will also help conserve soil moisture and suppress weeds. 6) Consider Protection Birds and other creatures can sometimes peck or uproot young leek plants from the ground. So, if this is a problem where you live, you might like to cover your leeks with cloches, row covers, netting or some other form of protection. “When my leeks first go into the ground, I do find that the odd one gets pulled out by birds,” shares Colin Skelly, a Master Horticulturist. “However, I don’t find that netting is worthwhile because the birds don’t tend to persist and, at this stage, you can just pop the leeks back in the ground. “If it was more of a problem, I would use netting, but it would come off as soon as the leeks were sufficiently rooted.”
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Sow Leek Seeds In Batches Between February And June - Gardener Shares How
IN THIS GUIDE Choosing A Variety When To Sow Leeks Where To Grow Leeks Indoor Sowing Outdoor Sowing Leeks are a wonderful vegetable to grow in the UK and, fortunately, they are not too challenging to grow from seed either. Sow leek seeds in batches between February and June and you can potentially harvest and eat leeks from late-August right through winter – to February the following year. The process of growing leeks from seed is very easy, as we explain in the guide below. Difficulty Easy Equipment Required Seeds, seed tray or pot, growing medium When To Sow February to June When To Plant Out April to June Choosing A Variety Before you can sow leek seeds you will need to determine which variety you would like to grow. There are many named cultivars to choose from. Some cultivars that have received an RHS Award of Garden Merit (AGM) include: ‘Autumn Giant Porvite’ ‘Blauwgroene Winter’ ‘Cairngorm’ ‘Jolant’ ‘Longbow’ ‘Krypton’ ‘Mammoth Blanch’ ‘Oarsman’ ‘Porbella’ ‘Stamford’ When choosing a variety, remember that some are suited to harvesting before the frosts set in, others are suited for winter growing, whilst others still mature late and are suited to harvesting in late winter and early spring. When To Sow Leeks Leek seeds can be sown indoors from February to June or outside from March to June. Sowing earlier will provide you with leeks in late summer and early autumn, and later sowing can potentially see you right through the winter months. It is a great idea to prolong the harvesting period by sowing leek seeds successionally in smaller batches over this period, in order to make sure you can enjoy homegrown leeks over as much of the year as possible. Where To Grow Leeks Leeks can be grown in the ground, in raised beds or in large, deep containers, as long as the soil or growing medium is moist but free-draining, fertile and rich in organic matter. The more rich and fertile the soil or growing medium, the better your leeks will grow. Plan to grow them in your vegetable garden, in an area with a reasonable amount of sun, and combine them with other vegetables and companion plants for the best results. Indoor Sowing When sowing leeks indoors, you should first prepare your seed trays or small pots. These should be filled with a good quality, peat-free potting compost. Place the leek seeds on the surface of this growing medium, then cover them over very lightly so that they are covered by a few millimetres of the potting mix. If growing in small blocks or modules, sow a single seed per block or module. “I sow my leeks in small modules in February, being careful to label the different cultivars,” shares Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly. “I use succession sowing and a selection of cultivars to harvest from autumn to late winter, so if I get the labels wrong, I’m in trouble. “These get thinned and then planted out into the garden as early as I can.” Once the leek seeds germinate and are large enough to handle, pot up those grown in seed trays into individual small pots. The young leeks can then be planted out into their final growing position in your garden when they are 15-20cm in height and, ideally, are approaching pencil thickness. Outdoor Sowing Alternatively, if you wish to grow a lot of leeks and do not have space to start them indoors, you might consider sowing leeks into a prepared seed bed outdoors that has been well composted or manured and raked to a fine tilth. It is best not to directly sow leeks into your main growing area, as they will take up a lot of space early in the growing season that can be used for other quick crops. Sow your seeds thinly in rows, around 15cm apart, around 1 cm deep in the seed bed area. Then, transplant your young leeks to your vegetable garden in early summer. Once you have leeks in your growing areas, be sure to tend them well over the summer and autumn months and you should be rewarded with a successful leek harvest later in the year.
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Leeks Grow In Harmony With Veg, Herbs And Flowers - These Are Their Best Companions
IN THIS GUIDE Vegetable Companions Herb Companions Flowering Companions Bad Companions Additional Considerations References Choosing companion plants for leeks and using leeks as a companion plant for other crops, can be beneficial in many ways. When we use companion plants, we are looking to promote healthy plant growth and create a functioning ecosystem in which plants and wildlife work together, with us, in harmonious balance. When choosing companion plants for leeks, we need to remember the growing conditions they require and find other plants that like the same or similar growing conditions. Our aim is also to increase the number of beneficial interactions and boost yield overall, without adversely affecting any plants through excessive competition. Thankfully, leeks grow well alongside a wide range of other plants. As alliums (members of the onion family), they can help (through their scent) to repel, confuse or distract a number of pest species. However, they can also themselves be troubled by pests and planting certain plants nearby can help deal with these specific pest issues. Vegetable Companions Cabbage (And Other Brassicas) Leeks, like other members of the onion family, can be wonderful companions for cabbage and other members of their plant family such as broccoli, kale and kohlrabi. The leeks may help repel, confuse or distract common cabbage pests like whiteflies and cabbage white butterflies. Beetroots & Chard Beetroots and chard also grow nicely alongside both brassicas and leeks. Leeks may help to deter aphids and flea beetles that might plague your beetroot crop. The beetroots also help leeks as their roots break up the soil and potentially create a more free-draining situation. Celery Celery can also help break down and loosen soil for leeks, while leeks can help to protect your celery from pests such as leaf miners and carrot root flies. You might also choose to grow leeks in rotation with other alliums such as bulb onions or garlic. Keeping these close to one another can help make crop rotation easier. However, remember that these crops share pests, so plant other companions between and among them to mask their scents, and don’t grow them too close, even when they are in the same bed. Herb Companions Many aromatic herbs can also help mask the scent of leeks and some of their other vegetable companions and keep them free from pests. Try lavender, rosemary or thyme around the edges of your bed. Some even argue (albeit anecdotally) that certain herbs like rosemary and thyme can actually improve the taste of leeks growing close by. Just remember that leeks like more moisture than these Mediterranean herbs. Flowering Companions A number of other flowering plants can also be beneficial for leeks and their vegetable companions when grown close by. “I often cook leeks in combination with herbs, but I’ve never yet tried growing them together to see if they have a beneficial impact on each other,” shares Colin Skelly, Master Horticulturist. “I’ve always found that leeks next to brassicas work well, so perhaps there is a positive association, although not enough to deter cabbage white butterflies in my experience!” Some may help with repelling, confusing or distracting pests, while others can be particularly beneficial because they attract beneficial predatory insects to help keep pest numbers down. Calendula, French marigolds and Borage are three great companion plants that will help leeks as well as many other plants in your vegetable garden and can be wonderful throughout your kitchen garden. Bad Companions While leeks can work well with the above and also with a number of other plants, there are certainly some combinations that are best avoided. Peas Peas make bad companions for leeks because they are said to have allelopathic effects on one another – i.e. they stunt each other’s growth.1 Beans The same is true for beans and other legumes that you might grow in your vegetable garden. Of course, you should also avoid planting leeks with other plants that do not like the same conditions, as caring for each will become incredibly difficult. Additional Considerations Companion planting is often said to be beneficial in a garden and some beliefs of gardeners have been borne out in scientific studies. However, it is important to realise that there is still a lot that we do not understand about plant interactions, so often, in companion planting, we do not always know how efficacious certain combinations will be. However, by experimenting with different plant combinations that may work, making educated guesses and avoiding known bad combinations, we can often achieve far better yields and results in our gardens than we could do by planting in mono-crop beds. We can also help improve things for wildlife that shares our space too, by boosting the diversity of plants growing where we live. References 1. Evenari, M. (1961). Chemical influences of other plants (allelopathy). Retrieved March 21, 2023, from https://link.springer.com/content/pdf/10.1007/978-3-662-11209-0_6.pdf
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Here's How To Plant And Grow Camellia Japonica - The RHS Award Winning Species
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Common Varieties Planting Camellia Japonica Care FAQs References Camellia japonica is a popular species of shrub with a range of interesting cultivars to choose from. Learn more about it, how to choose a variety and how to grow and care for it in this guide. These plants are beloved by gardeners, who prize their glossy evergreen foliage and their spring flowers. “I love fragrant plants that attract wildlife because I am very much a nature-friendly gardener,” shares Sue Fisher, an award-winning garden designer. “I have a Camellia shrub that is wonderful for pollinators and I love it.” Overview Botanical Name Camellia japonica Common Name(s) Common Camellia; Japanese Camellia Plant Type Shrub Native Area China, Japan and Korea Hardiness Rating H5 Foliage Evergreen Flowers Showy white or pink flowers When To Plant October to November When To Prune April to May Common camellia, also known as ‘Japanese Camellia’, is a species of flowering shrub in the Theaceae plant family. It is native to China, southern Korea and Japan, where it is known to grow in the wild in forests, specifically at altitudes between around 300-1100m.1 Although they are usually seen as smaller shrubs in gardens, in the wild they can grow into much larger shrubs or trees. “Camellias have such lovely flowers and colours, and they brighten up the dull days in the early part of the year,” says Lorraine Summers, Owner of Trehane Camellia and Blueberry Nursery. C. japonica The oldest C. japonicas in Europe are believed to have been planted in the 16th century after already being cultivated in Asia for hundreds of years before.2 Common Varieties “I always look for an RHS Award of Garden Merit if I have a choice to make between plants,” says Colin Skelly, a Horticulturist who has previous experience at The Eden Project. “It means that it has been trialled and found to perform reliably in gardens. “These plants can be considered tried and tested and a good bet if you’re making a planting decision.” Some of the notable cultivars of Camellia japonica that you can choose from that have received the RHS Award of Garden Merit are: C. japonica ‘Adelina Patti’ C. japonica ‘Alexander Hunter’ C. japonica ‘Ballet Dancer’ C. japonica ‘Bob Hope’ C. japonica ‘Drama Girl’ C. japonica ‘Gloire de Nantes’ C. japonica ‘Hagoromo’ C. japonica ‘Jupiter’ C. japonica ‘Lavinia Maggi’ C. japonica ‘Mars’ C. japonica ‘Nuccio’s Gem’ C. japonica ‘San Dimas’ C. japonica ‘Tricolor’ C. japonica ‘Tricolor’ Each of these would make an excellent starting point for growing in the UK’s climate.3 There are also numerous hybrids, such as C. japonica x williamsii, which have received an RHS Award of Garden Merit. Planting Japanese camellias are best planted out in the autumn, while the soil is still warm, so that they can establish strong root systems before the winter arrives. Most cultivars of C. japonica will do best if planted in an area with partial or dappled shade. Remember that these are relatively large shrubs, so you should allow at least 3-5m between these shrubs if you are planting more than one. Where To Grow Common Camellia C. japonica will work well in a low-maintenance garden as long as the environmental and soil conditions are appropriate. They will look great among other Asian species in a Japanese-style garden. They will also be at home in a traditional cottage garden, or in beds or borders in gardens of many other types. C. japonicas can also work well in city and courtyard gardens, and some cultivars are suitable for container cultivation. Sometimes, it is even grown as a houseplant indoors. Camellia Japonica Care Overwintering Common Camellia are hardy plants, with an RHS hardiness rating of H5. This means that they are hardy enough to make it through the coldest months in most places throughout the UK, even during severe winters. However, they should be placed in a sheltered spot, as they can be damaged by cold and drying winds. Buds and flowers may also be damaged by chilly temperatures and late frosts. Aspect Since C. japonica likes some shade, a south-facing spot may not be ideal. However, north, west and east-facing aspects can often work fine. One thing to note is that an east-facing spot where a camellia gets early morning sun is not ideal, because, in winter, this can cause the flower buds to dry out and thaw too quickly, increasing the chance of damage. Soil Requirements One of the most important things to remember when deciding where to grow C. japonicas is that these are ericaceous plants and will do best in acidic soil. If you have alkaline soil then it would be best to grow your camellias in containers filled with ericaceous peat-free compost or to choose plants better suited to the growing conditions that you can provide. The soil or growing medium should be moist but well-drained or well-drained. Watering Camellia japonicas should be watered regularly until they become established. “Camellias should be kept well-watered in August and September, as this can help to prevent bud drop in the spring,” Patricia explains. So, for the first year and a half or so, water regularly through the summer months, providing more water if the plants are grown in containers. Aim to keep the soil consistently moist at around 10cm below the surface. If in doubt, dig with a trowel to check if the soil is dry at this depth. When watering your garden, it is always best to use rainwater rather than tap water. If you have not already set up a rainwater harvesting system, make it a priority to do so right away. Watering with rainwater is especially important for camellias and other ericaceous plants if you live in a hard water area. Pruning & Training You can deadhead C. japonica when the flowers begin to fade to keep it looking fresh. However, this is not strictly necessary, as it is only for aesthetic reasons and will not have any impact on flowering the following year. Regular pruning is not needed for C. japonica, but if they grow larger than you want them to grow, you can give them a light trim after flowering has ended. If you wish to cut back harder to reduce the size of the shrub, this is best done in March, but note that hard pruning will mean that you will not have good flowering again for at least a couple of years. Feeding It can be beneficial to mulch around camellia plants with an ericaceous mulch each year in early spring. This will help retain moisture and will also provide slow-release fertility. You may also boost a plant that looks undernourished by feeding it with an organic fertiliser suitable for ericaceous plants in early spring. Be careful not to feed excessively and always stop feeding by the end of July at the latest. If you overdo the fertiliser or feed too late, this can lead to bud drop. Pot Growing C. japonica can be a good choice for container growing. Just remember that pots should be filled with an ericaceous medium that has a pH of between 5-6.5. Make sure that you choose a container a little larger than the existing root system of the plant. Common Pests & Problems Many of the common problems seen in C. japonica plants stem from a problem with environmental conditions or care. As long as you take note of all the above, place them in a suitable location and care for them correctly, they should be a relatively trouble-free plant. However, there are some problems that may arise, including: Fungal diseases (camellia gall, leaf or petal blight and root rot). Pests like vine weevil – which are more commonly seen on container-grown plants. Companion Planting Great companions for camellias are other plants which thrive in acidic soil conditions and in partial shade. In our interview, Patricia Short from the International Camellia Society suggested these companions for C. japonica: Roses Spring-flowering bulbs Cyclamen Digitalis I think that some other great choices are: Japanese maples Azaleas Rhododendrons Heathers Hellebores Heucheras Hostas Propagating C. japonica can be propagated by means of semi-ripe or hardwood cuttings, layering or grafting. FAQs How Big Does Camellia japonica Grow? C. japonica will grow into large shrubs and can ultimately be up to 10m tall and 8m wide. However, often they will remain somewhat smaller and growth can be restricted a little through light pruning if required. Fortunately, they are also pretty slow growing. If growing in pots, repotting will usually only be required every few years. Where Is The Best Place To Plant Camellias? In dappled or partial shade, in acidic soil, with a west-facing aspect. Does Common Camellia Make A Good Hedge? C. japonica can potentially be used to make a hedge in suitably shaded sot with acidic soil, but you will have to be very patient and dedicated since they grow slowly, and maintenance will take a lot of work. A different Camellia, C. sasanqua, is more commonly used to make hedges. This other plant has smaller leaves and a tighter habit of growth. References 1. Camellia japonica. (n.d.-b). NBN Atlas. Retrieved March 13, 2023, from https://species.nbnatlas.org/species/NBNSYS0500000250 2. Ancient camellias in Galicia and Portugal. (n.d.). International Camellia Society. Retrieved March 13, 2023, from https://internationalcamellia.org/en-us/articles/historical/ancient-camellias-in-galicia-and-portugal 3. AGM Plants July 2021. (n.d.). Royal Horticultural Society. Retrieved March 13, 2023, from https://www.rhs.org.uk/plants/pdfs/agm-lists/agm-ornamentals.pdf
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Feeding And Watering Guidelines For Camellia: 'Pine Wood Chip Is My Mulch Of Choice'
IN THIS GUIDE Watering Feeding Camellia can be relatively easy to care for, but things can go wrong, so it is important to carefully consider where you grow and how you tend to it to avoid the most common pitfalls. Some of the mistakes often made when growing camellias revolve around watering and feeding. Getting these two things right is crucial for growing healthy and happy plants, as I explain below. Watering When watering camellias, you need to remember that they like free-draining conditions. Do not overwater and always make sure that excess water can drain away freely. Another key thing to bear in mind is that you want to keep the conditions acidic, as camellias prefer a pH somewhere between 5-6.5. For this reason, you should water with rainwater wherever possible, especially if you have hard water where you live, as tap water can be far too alkaline in some areas. Camellias will typically need to be watered more frequently when grown in containers than when grown in the ground. You should water deeply whenever the top few centimetres of the growing medium feels dry. Plants growing in the ground will also need to be watered well during the period of establishment, especially for the first 18 months or so and during particularly dry spells in summer. “Camellias should be kept well-watered in August and September, as this can help to prevent bud drop in the spring”, explains Patricia Short from the International Camellia Society. Well-established and larger shrubs will typically require less watering and care in general. When watering, it is important to try to water the soil below the plants and not the plants themselves. This not only ensures that water gets to where it is needed but also helps to reduce the chances of a fungal infection. A mulch on top of the soil can also help prevent fungal spores from being splashed up onto the leaves. Feeding In the early spring, feed your camellias with an ericaceous organic fertiliser and add a mulch around your plants. A mulch of pine needles, coniferous bark or other similar materials can be ideal. “Feed the soil, not the plant, is a good adage to follow,” says Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly. “The mulch breaks down feeding the Camellia slowly over time, whilst also increasing moisture and reducing evaporation. “Remember to use an acidifying mulch: pine wood chip mulch is my ericaceous mulch of choice.” You can also consider using an organic liquid plant feed, though this is usually only required when growing camellias in containers. Less is more when it comes to fertilising camellias and it is more important to ensure a fertile growing medium than to feed additionally through the growing season. To maintain fertility in the growing medium, make sure you top dress the containers and repot into a new growing medium every 2-3 years. When using an organic liquid fertiliser, it is important not to overdo it, making sure that you always stop fertilising a camellia before the end of July. Feeding later in summer and into autumn can cause buds to drop from the plant the following year.
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Acidic Soil Is A Must For Camellia Plants - And Do Everything To Avoid Waterlogging
IN THIS GUIDE Preferred Soil Type Soil Moisture Potting Mix Camellia can be a relatively low-maintenance option for the garden, but it can quickly become far more work and less reliable if you do not grow it in an appropriate position. Camellias can be grown in pots or in the ground if the soil is suitable. However, it is vital to provide the right conditions when it comes to the soil or growing medium where you wish to grow these shrubs. Here are the basic things you need to know before growing: Camellias can be grown in clay, loam or sand in a garden. They absolutely must have acidic soil conditions. They cannot tolerate waterlogging. When a suitable site is not available in the soil in a garden, camellia can be grown (in ericaceous compost) in pots. Preferred Soil Type The first thing to look at if you would like to grow camellias in your garden soil is the soil type you have in your garden. Camellias will typically thrive in clay, loam or sand. Any of these above soil types, as long as it is relatively fertile, should be suitable for these shrubs. After you have determined your soil type, it is vital to look at one characteristic of the soil in particular – pH. Above all else, when it comes to choosing a site and looking at your soil, it is important to understand that these plants need an acidic to neutral soil – ideally with a pH between 5.5-6.5. Soil Moisture Another important characteristic to look at when determining whether your garden soil is appropriate for growing camellias is moisture retention and the potential for waterlogging. Camellias are actually fairly resilient and can cope with a lot. However, one thing that they cannot usually cope with at all is damp, boggy soil. “If you aren’t sure about you garden conditions yet then wait until you are before choosing to plant,” Horticulturist Colin Skelly recommends. “Take some pH tests across the garden to give you an idea of the general acidity and of any differences across the site. “Then, in the middle of winter after some wet weather, observe the ground conditions in the garden. “Ask yourself where does the water pool? Do any spots drain more freely than others? In summer, do the same. Where is the soil still moist? Where is it drier? “Camellias will suit a spot that is not boggy in winter but still relatively moist in summer.” Fortunately, even if you have a heavier clay soil that is prone to waterlogging, you can add plenty of organic matter to improve drainage. Potting Mix If you don’t have acidic and moist yet free-draining soil in your garden, some amendment might be possible, but instead it might be better to grow them in containers. If you are growing a camellia in a container, make sure that you choose a suitable peat-free ericaceous compost. Repot with fresh medium every 2-3 years to maintain the appropriate fertility and pH level and to make sure compaction does not occur.
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'Crimson King' And 'Ruby Wedding' - A Selection Of 19 Remarkable Red Camellias
IN THIS GUIDE 1) C. japonica ‘Alexander Hunter’ 2) C. japonica ‘Adolphe Audusson’ 3) C. ‘Black Lace’ 4) C. japonica ‘Black Prince’ 5) C. japonica ‘Bob Hope’ 6) C. japonica ‘Bob’s Tinsie’ 7) C. japonica ‘Coquettii’ 8) C. japonica ‘Grand Prix’ 9) C. japonica ‘Grand Slam’ 10) C. japonica ‘Jupiter’ 11) C. japonica ‘Kramer’s Supreme’ 12) C. japonica ‘Mars’ 13) C. japonica ‘Mercury’ 14) C. ‘Tom Knudsen’ 15) C. ‘Royalty’ 16) C. sasanqua ‘Crimson King’ 17) C. × williamsii ‘Freedom Bell’ 18) C. × williamsii ‘Les Jury’ 19) C. × williamsii ‘Ruby Wedding’ There are a huge variety of different camellia shrubs to choose from, with flowers coming in a range of hues. One way to start narrowing down your choices is to look at the colour of the blooms. With large dramatic flowers, red camellias can be wonderful for bringing a vibrant and exotic feel to your garden. All of these options are H5 hardy and can be grown in most soil types with an acidic pH as long as they are sited in a sheltered position. 1) C. japonica ‘Alexander Hunter’ COMMON NAME(S): camellia ‘alexander hunter’ FLOWERING SEASON(S): spring SUNLIGHT: full / part shade SIZE: 2.5-4m in height, 2.5-4m spread This large shrub with a compact growth habit and upright form can grow up to around 2-4m in height and width. Its flowers are deep crimson in colour, with single or double forms, and grow to around 10cm across. This plant is H5 hardy. 2) C. japonica ‘Adolphe Audusson’ COMMON NAME(S): camellia ‘adolphe audusson’ FLOWERING SEASON(S): spring SUNLIGHT: full / part shade SIZE: 1-1.5m in height, 1-1.5m spread Growing quite large where conditions are ideal, this camellia has a fairly compact habit of growth. Its flowers are semi-double and are a rich red in hue with yellow stamens, and can grow to around 10-12cm in diameter. This plant is H5 hardy. 3) C. ‘Black Lace’ COMMON NAME(S): camellia ‘black lace’ FLOWERING SEASON(S): spring SUNLIGHT: full / part shade SIZE: 1.5-2.5m in height, 1.5-2.5m spread A compact camellia rarely exceeding 2.5m in size, this option is one for those who love order, symmetry and precision in blooms, as Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly shares: “I love the geometry of C. ‘Black Lace’, which contrasts with single flowered species and cultivars. “I never fail to be awe-struck by the beautiful patterns of plant and flower forms. “The only downside of these and similar double forms is that the pollen and nectar are difficult for pollinators to access.” The geometric flowers are a deep red and form dramatic and orderly patterns against the deep green leaves. This plant is also H5 hardy. 4) C. japonica ‘Black Prince’ COMMON NAME(S): camellia ‘konronkoku’ FLOWERING SEASON(S): spring SUNLIGHT: full / part shade SIZE: 1.5-2.5m in height, 1.5-2.5m spread Also known by the name ‘Konronkoku’, this camellia cultivar has beautiful, rich, red, double flowers that are around 10cm across, which bloom in later spring. The shrub remains compact and grows to around 2.5m in height and width. 5) C. japonica ‘Bob Hope’ COMMON NAME(S): camellia ‘bob hope’ FLOWERING SEASON(S): spring SUNLIGHT: full / part shade SIZE: 2.5-4m in height, 1.5-2.5m spread Growing to around 3m, this camellia is another great option. It has deep red, semi-double flowers which can grow to around 12cm across. These lovely flowers bloom in the spring. 6) C. japonica ‘Bob’s Tinsie’ COMMON NAME(S): camellia ‘bob’s tinsie’ FLOWERING SEASON(S): spring SUNLIGHT: full / part shade SIZE: 1.5-2.5m in height, 0.5-1m spread A great option for smaller spaces or a container, this camellia grows to around 2.5m tall and 1m wide. It is notable for its anemone-form and double flowers with a bright red hue, which open to around 8cm across. 7) C. japonica ‘Coquettii’ COMMON NAME(S): camellia ‘coquettii’ FLOWERING SEASON(S): spring SUNLIGHT: full / part shade SIZE: 1.5-2.5m in height, 1.5-2.5m spread With light, bright red, double flowers around 10cm across, this is another stunner. It is medium-sized and quite slow growing, reaching around 2.5m in height and width if grown in optimal conditions and allowed to do so. 8) C. japonica ‘Grand Prix’ COMMON NAME(S): camellia ‘grand prix’ FLOWERING SEASON(S): spring SUNLIGHT: full / part shade SIZE: 4-8m in height, 4-8m spread A vigorous and medium-sized shrub that grows between 4-8m wide and tall, this camellia has bright red semi-double blooms which can be around 13cm in diameter. This cultivar is H5 hardy. 9) C. japonica ‘Grand Slam’ COMMON NAME(S): camellia ‘grand slam’ FLOWERING SEASON(S): spring SUNLIGHT: full / part shade SIZE: 2.5-4m in height, 2.5-4m spread Growing to around 4m in height, this camellia has dark, glossy leaves and anemone-form double or semi-double blooms with a deep red hue that open to around 12cm across. This variety is also H5 hardy. 10) C. japonica ‘Jupiter’ COMMON NAME(S): camellia ‘jupiter’ FLOWERING SEASON(S): spring SUNLIGHT: full / part shade SIZE: 2.5-4m in height, 1.5-2.5m spread Up to around 4m tall and 2.5m wide, this vigorous evergreen shrub has single or semi-double, rose-red, bowl-shaped blooms that are 9cm in diameter and have prominent golden stamens at the centre that are occasionally blotched with white. 11) C. japonica ‘Kramer’s Supreme’ COMMON NAME(S): camellia ‘kramer’s supreme’ FLOWERING SEASON(S): spring SUNLIGHT: full / part shade SIZE: 2.5-4m in height, 1.5-2.5m spread This lovely, large evergreen shrub grows with an upright and bushy form to around 4m tall and 2.5m wide. It has dark, glossy green leaves and, in the late winter to early spring, boasts large, double, peony-form flowers with good fragrance. 12) C. japonica ‘Mars’ COMMON NAME(S): camellia ‘mars’ FLOWERING SEASON(S): spring SUNLIGHT: full / part shade SIZE: 2.5-4m in height, 2.5-4m spread This large shrub with a lax habit can grow around 4m in height and width. The flowers on this camellia variety grow to around 12cm across and are deep red with prominent goldeny-yellow stamens. 13) C. japonica ‘Mercury’ COMMON NAME(S): camellia ‘mercury’ FLOWERING SEASON(S): spring SUNLIGHT: full / part shade SIZE: 1.5-2.5m in height, 1.5-2.5m spread Around 2.5m tall and wide at maturity, this compact camellia has crimson double blooms which are around 12cm across. These bloom in mid to late spring and are H5 hardy. 14) C. ‘Tom Knudsen’ COMMON NAME(S): camellia ‘tom Knudsen’ FLOWERING SEASON(S): winter / spring SUNLIGHT: full / part shade SIZE: 1.5-2.5m in height, 1.5-2.5m spread Also growing up to around 2.5m tall and wide, this is a compact hybrid camellia and is a cross between C. japonica and C. reticulata. It has deep rich green foliage and the flowers, which are of peony form, are double and deep red, blooming in winter and early spring. This cultivar is H4 hardy. 15) C. ‘Royalty’ COMMON NAME(S): camellia ‘royalty’ FLOWERING SEASON(S): spring SUNLIGHT: full / part shade SIZE: 0.5-1m in height, 0.5-1m spread This small and compact camellia rarely exceeds 1m in height and width. It has a lax growth habit, glossy dark green leaves and very large light red, semi-double flowers which are borne in mid or late spring. 16) C. sasanqua ‘Crimson King’ COMMON NAME(S): camellia ‘crimson king’ FLOWERING SEASON(S): autumn / winter SUNLIGHT: full shade / full sun / part shade SIZE: 1.5-2.5m in height, 1.5-2.5m spread Growing around 2.5m in height and width, this camellia is another great evergreen shrub for many gardens. One notable thing about this type of camellia is that it can cope in full sun as well as in shade. The light red flowers are single and fragrant, with yellow stamens at the centre. This variety is H4 hardy. 17) C. × williamsii ‘Freedom Bell’ COMMON NAME(S): camellia ‘freedom bell’ FLOWERING SEASON(S): winter / spring SUNLIGHT: full / part shade SIZE: 1.5-2.5m in height, 1.5-2.5m spread The bright red flowers on this evergreen shrub bloom from late winter. They are funnel-shaped and semi-double, and look beautiful against the deep green foliage. Another camellia variety that is H5 hardy. 18) C. × williamsii ‘Les Jury’ COMMON NAME(S): camellia ‘les jury’ FLOWERING SEASON(S): spring SUNLIGHT: full / part shade SIZE: 1.5-2.5m in height, 1-1.5m spread This camellia grows to around 2.5m tall and 1.5m wide. It flowers in early to mid spring, producing formal double blooms with a vibrant crimson hue. This variety is also H5 hardy. 19) C. × williamsii ‘Ruby Wedding’ COMMON NAME(S): camellia ‘ruby wedding’ FLOWERING SEASON(S): spring SUNLIGHT: full / part shade SIZE: 1.5-2.5m in height, 1-1.5m spread Growing to around 1.8m tall and wide, this popular camellia variety has glossy, dark green foliage and bright red flowers. The blooms are double and are anemone to peony-form.
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Sowing Camellia Seeds Requires Lots Of Patience - Here's 6 Steps If You Want To Give It A Go
IN THIS GUIDE 1) Collect Seed Pods 2) Soak Seeds Overnight 3) Sow Camellia Seeds 4) Wait For Germination 5) Trim The Taproot 6) Patiently Wait For Flowering Camellias are not the easiest plant to grow from seed, mainly due to the fact that this is a process that requires a great deal of patience. If you want to propagate new plants for your garden that look like the parent plant, you are best propagating these shrubs by taking either semi-ripe or hardwood cuttings. You can also try layering or grafting if you are a more experienced horticulturalist. However, should you wish to experiment with growing your own camellias from seed, here is the process to follow: Collect the seeds from an existing camellia. Soak the seeds overnight to increase the chances of success. Sow your camellia seeds in a seed tray or container, covering them with a light layer of compost. Water them in, then wait for germination to take place (this step requires patience as it can take months). Cut any long taproot to encourage bushier roots. Wait for your camellia seedlings to finish growing. We explore each step below. Difficulty Medium Equipment Required Seeds, seed tray, seed-starting compost When To Sow Spring or autumn 1) Collect Seed Pods The first part of the process is to collect seeds from an existing camellia. “The seed will be the result of two parents and therefore a mixture of the characteristics of both of them,” explains Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly. “Therefore, your new camellia will be a unique seedling. The chances of it being a show stopper are not high, as professionals regularly scan thousands of new deliberately crossed seedlings for new introductions. “However, having your own seedling has a charm of its own.” It may be necessary to tie a bag around a stem to collect these, though you may be able to collect them from the ground around an existing shrub. These are weighty seeds and shouldn’t be too difficult to recognise. 2) Soak Seeds Overnight The seeds that are collected should be sown as soon as possible. Many gardeners find that there is a better chance of successful germination if the seeds are soaked overnight in tepid water to break down the coating around the seeds before they are sown. 3) Sow Camellia Seeds Choose a seed tray, pot or another container, fill these with a seed starting potting mix and sow your camellia seeds. Press your camellia seeds into the surface of the compost with the eye facing downwards or to the side. Afterwards, cover them over lightly with the compost mix and water them in, allowing excess water to drain away. 4) Wait For Germination Be patient, as camellia seeds can take several months to germinate and will likely do so the following spring. Take good care of them over the winter months. 5) Trim The Taproot Once the seedling has developed shoots above the surface of the growing medium, it is a good idea to cut the long taproot that grows straight down to encourage bushier roots. This will also make sure that the plant remains as comfortable as possible in its container. Pot on your young camellia when required as it grows. 6) Patiently Wait For Flowering Remember, it will take around 5-7 years before your camellias will begin to flower, and when they do, they may not flower in the same way as their parent plant. So, you will need to wait a long time to see the results and discover whether your efforts were worthwhile.
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Don't Ignore These 5 Key Tips When Growing Camellia In Pots
IN THIS GUIDE Can You Grow Camellia In Pots? 1) Choose The Right Pot 2) Source Ericaceous Compost 3) Pot Up At The Right Depth 4) Only Use Suitable Companion Plants 5) Care For Your Potted Camellia Camellias can be wonderful shrubs to grow if you have suitable acidic soil in your garden. However, what if you don’t have acidic soil or you don’t have much space? Can You Grow Camellia In Pots? Camellia can be an excellent choice for container cultivation. Although these shrubs can often grow rather large in the garden, many are ideally suited to growing in pots. You can grow C. sasanqua for flowers in autumn or C. japonica and C. x williamsii for flowers from early spring. There are, of course, plenty of amazing named cultivars to choose from for your container garden. 1) Choose The Right Pot Camellias need a container with reasonably good drainage, so that excess water can drain away freely at the base. The container should be large enough to accommodate the camellia’s root ball, with just a little space around each side. It is best not to use a container that is much larger, but rather to put up a stage at a time. Otherwise, there is a greater chance that the conditions might become waterlogged, which is something that camellia cannot abide. Camellias are shrubs which can grow rather tall, so a heavier pot such as a ceramic or terracotta one could be a better option than one which is more lightweight and might tip over. 2) Source Ericaceous Compost One of the most important things to remember when growing camellias is that they require acidic conditions. So, when filling a pot or other container, you will need to use peat-free ericaceous compost. You can either make a peat-free ericaceous compost or buy your own. This is a specialist compost created to provide the pH levels that acid-loving plants require. The mix needs to be free-draining in order to give camellia the growing conditions they need and will ideally have a pH between 5-6.5. 3) Pot Up At The Right Depth Camellias are frequently purchased as potted plants. Once your plant arrives or you get it home, you should prepare your new container, which should be just slightly larger than the pot it came in. Place a little of your ericaceous potting mix in the base, position your new plant, put a little more of the growing medium around the sides of the plant and gently firm it in place. Water it in, allowing excess water to drain away. You might also pot up camellias you have grown from cuttings in the same way, once they have established a good root system. When potting up camellias, make sure that they sit at the same depth as they sat at in their previous position. Top the container with an ericaceous mulch. 4) Only Use Suitable Companion Plants Usually, a single camellia will be placed in a pot on its own. However, if you choose a larger container, you can also consider creating a mixed display with a camellia at the centre and some smaller acid-loving plants around the edges of the space. Just remember that camellias have shallow roots, so you should take care to avoid too much competition when choosing companion plants. 5) Care For Your Potted Camellia Place pots (for most camellia varieties) in partial or dappled shade. Avoid placing your camellia in containers in windy locations or spots that get early morning sun. Water regularly and well, but always ensure that excess water can drain away freely. Watering with rainwater is always best and avoiding tap water is especially important if you live in a hard water area. In the early spring, feed your camellias with an ericaceous organic fertiliser. You can purchase an organic option or consider making your own, but make sure that you do not feed after the end of July, as this can lead to bud drop. Whether or not you can leave your camellias in their pots in outdoor locations all winter will depend on the variety you are growing and where you live. Some camellias, such as C. sasanqua, will need protection in most parts of the UK during the coldest months if growing in a container. Since container plants are more exposed to the cold, you may also need to offer some protection to C. japonica and C. x williamsii cultivars. Move your container-grown camellias into a spot close to the house or a wall in a more sheltered location. You can also wrap your shrubs with horticultural fleece or move them into an undercover growing area or cool conservatory in the freezing cold weather. Camellia do not require regular pruning, but if your plant is getting too large for its pot, you can trim it into shape after it has finished flowering, as Colin Skelly, a Horticulturist with 14 years of experience, shares: “Camellias can grow into large shrubs, so I cut camellias in pots back hard after flowering. “I prune mine into cylinder shapes, which holds their form fairly well until flowering the following spring. “Only cut back once after flowering, otherwise you will lose flowers the following year since they flower on the previous year’s growth.” Hard pruning is also possible and is best undertaken in March, but you should note that pruning back hard means that it could be at least a couple of years before the plant flowers well again. Camellias typically need to be repotted to a larger container with new growing medium every couple of years. Follow these guidelines and you should not usually find it too much of a challenge to grow beautiful camellia shrubs in containers where you live.
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