Growing
Commercial Growers Share 20 Lovely Lavender Types They Swear By
IN THIS GUIDE Expert Chosen Varieties 1) L. angustifolia ‘Beechwood Blue’ 2) L. angustifolia ‘Hidcote’ 3) L. angustifolia ‘Imperial Gem’ 4) Lavandula angustifolia ‘Batlad’ 5) Lavandula angustifolia ‘Clarmo’ 6) L. angustifolia ‘Miss Katherine’ 7) Lavandula angustifolia ‘Scholmis’ 8) L. angustifolia ‘Nana Alba’ 9) L. x chaytoriae ‘Richard Gray’ 10) L. x chaytoriae ‘Sawyers’ 11) L. dentata var. dentata ‘Royal Crown’ 12) L. ‘Goodwin Creek Grey’ 13) L. x intermedia ‘Alba’ 14) L. x intermedia ‘Hidcote Giant’ 15) L. x intermedia ‘Sussex’ 16) L. pedunculata subsp. pedunculata 17) L. ‘Ballerina’ 18) L. stoechas ‘Pretty Polly’ 19) L. ‘Willow Vale’ 20) L. stoechas subsp. stoechas f. rosea ‘Kew Red’ A favourite with many gardeners, it’s easy to see why lavender, with its beautiful appearance and delightful scent, is such a popular flower and herb to grow. However, choosing a lavender is not always as straightforward as it may at first appear, since there are a number of different types, species and cultivars to choose from. If you are choosing a lavender shrub to grow, the first thing to understand is that some lavender is hardier and better suited to UK conditions than other lavender. In addition to hardiness, you might also want to think about other specifics, such as blooms, colour, appearance and fragrance. Expert Chosen Varieties We spoke with some of our lavender experts about their favourite lavenders to grow. “‘Folgate’ is my favourite,” shares Charlie Byrd from Cotswold Lavender. “It’s the first variety we grew and is brilliant. “It’s easy to grow and early flowering with an upright growth habit and in the summer evenings, it almost glows.” ‘Folgate’ “With hundreds of varieties, there are so many to choose from including white, pink and, of course, purple flowering varieties,” explains Nick & Lyndsay Butler, owners of Lavender Fields. “It is exciting when you are constantly learning and discovering new varieties every year, but there really are too many to choose from! “We love to grow lavenders that are less common and a lot of people that visit us are amazed to find out there is more than one variety.” ‘Edelweiss’ “One of our favourites is a variety called ‘Edelweiss’,” they share. “This is an intermedia variety and is probably the most strongly scented lavender we have ever come across. “It is white flowering and grows up to 1m. “In terms of a purple variety, it would have to be ‘Havanna’, which is much like ‘Hidcote’ but slightly smaller. ‘Rosea’ “It is possibly one of the deepest purple lavenders you will find but has a much larger flowering head than ‘Hidcote’. “Finally, if we were to pick a pink flowering variety, it would be ‘Rosea’, which is known for providing beautiful creamy pink flowers and is something very different to the norm.” To help you mull over your choices further, here are some of my favourite Lavender varieties to grow: 1) L. angustifolia ‘Beechwood Blue’ COMMON NAME(S): English lavender ‘Beechwood Blue’ HARDINESS RATING: H5 FLOWERS: purple and blue FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer This is an English lavender, and therefore H5 hardy. Along with all the other Lavandula listed below, it will thrive in full sun, in a sheltered spot with free-draining soil. This cultivar grows to around 45cm in height and boasts an abundance of purple-blue flowers in the summer months. 2) L. angustifolia ‘Hidcote’ COMMON NAME(S): English lavender ‘Hidcote’ HARDINESS RATING: H5 FLOWERS: purple FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer ‘Hidcote’ is another English lavender and it is one of the most popular varieties to grow in the UK. This small evergreen shrub has narrow, silvery leaves and small flowers in a deep violet-purple hue that have a strong fragrance. These are borne in spikes that grow around 3-4cm in length. 3) L. angustifolia ‘Imperial Gem’ COMMON NAME(S): English lavender ‘Imperial Gem’ HARDINESS RATING: H5 FLOWERS: purple FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer With slightly paler purple flowers, this English lavender also bears its fragrant flowers in the summer months. “Lavandula ‘Imperial Gem’ is one of my favourite Lavender cultivars,” shares Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly. “It is compact and its stems are in good proportion to its overall size, making it perfect for edging paths.: Like the above options, it is H5 hardy, so can survive winter in many a garden in the British Isles. 4) Lavandula angustifolia ‘Batlad’ COMMON NAME(S): English lavender HARDINESS RATING: H5 FLOWERS: purple and blue FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer This lovely English lavender bears pale to mid-lilac-coloured flowers each summer. Bushy and compact, as you would expect an English lavender to be, it also likes full sun and a sheltered spot and, as with all of the above, it is H5 hardy. 5) Lavandula angustifolia ‘Clarmo’ COMMON NAME(S): English lavender HARDINESS RATING: H5 FLOWERS: pink FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer A dwarf lavender which will grow no taller than around 30cm high, this option has pinkish-purple flowers above its greenish-grey foliage. Since it is compact in size, this can be a good choice for pots, for the front of a border, or for orderly low hedging. Again, this is an English lavender which is H5 hardy. 6) L. angustifolia ‘Miss Katherine’ COMMON NAME(S): English lavender ‘Miss Katherine’ HARDINESS RATING: H5 FLOWERS: pink FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer A taller lavender growing to around 75cm tall, this option has flowers that are fragrant, with a light pink hue that sets them apart from many of the blue and purple options on this list. Again, this English lavender is H5 hardy and needs a sheltered spot in full sun with well-drained soil. 7) Lavandula angustifolia ‘Scholmis’ COMMON NAME(S): English lavender HARDINESS RATING: H5 FLOWERS: blue FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer This is another compact dwarf lavender that is well suited to use at the front of a bed or border, in low hedging, bed edging or in pots. It will tend to grow to around 30cm tall, bearing its violet-purple flowers in the mid and late summer. This lavender is also H5 hardy. 8) L. angustifolia ‘Nana Alba’ COMMON NAME(S): dwarf white English lavender HARDINESS RATING: H5 FLOWERS: white FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer A lavender variety that stands out for the colour of the blooms, this cultivar of English lavender has pure white flowers. This is another compact variety that will typically grow to a height of only around 30cm. The white flowers look great above the narrow greyish-green leaves when they bloom in the late summer. Again, this lavender is a hardy option. 9) L. x chaytoriae ‘Richard Gray’ COMMON NAME(S): lavender ‘Richard Gray’ HARDINESS RATING: H4 FLOWERS: purple FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer This hybrid Lavandula is a little less hardy than the English lavender varieties listed above. However, it is still moderately hardy, with an RHS hardiness rating of H4. It grows to around 50cm tall and has spikes of deep purple flowers. 10) L. x chaytoriae ‘Sawyers’ COMMON NAME(S): lavender ‘Sawyers’ HARDINESS RATING: H4 FLOWERS: purple FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer Another hybrid type of Lavender, this Lavandula has flowers of a slightly lighter hue than the above and grows just a little taller, with stems typically reaching around 60cm in length. The flowers are borne in the mid-summer. This option is also H4 hardy, meaning that, while not as hardy as English lavender types, it is still hardy enough to survive during winter across most of the UK. 11) L. dentata var. dentata ‘Royal Crown’ COMMON NAME(S): lavender ‘Royal Crown’ HARDINESS RATING: H3 FLOWERS: purple FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer This is what is commonly known as a French lavender. It is more tender than any of the options mentioned thus far, with a H3 hardiness rating. This means that, in all but the most sheltered or coastal gardens in the UK, it will require some winter protection. However, it has great drought resistance, so could be a good option for dry, southern areas. It will grow around 60cm tall and has small purple flowering spikes topped by larger paler purple bracts. 12) L. ‘Goodwin Creek Grey’ COMMON NAME(S): lavender ‘Goodwin Creek Grey’ HARDINESS RATING: H4 FLOWERS: purple and blue FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer A hybrid Lavandula, this option grows into a shrub just shy of 1m high, typically around 90cm. It has silvery green leaves and flowering stems up to around 30cm long which are topped by spikes of dark violet-blue flowers around 10-14cm in length. The flowers bloom in midsummer and sometimes bloom at other times too in a mild climate. It is H4 hardy. 13) L. x intermedia ‘Alba’ COMMON NAME(S): lavender ‘Alba’ HARDINESS RATING: H5 FLOWERS: white FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer This is another white-flowered lavender. It is an evergreen hybrid type that grows to 1m or more in height. Again, the white flowers are a little different to the many shades of purple on offer and look lovely against the grey-green leaves of the plants. Sometimes also referred to as ‘Dutch white’ this variety is H5 hardy. 14) L. x intermedia ‘Hidcote Giant’ COMMON NAME(S): lavender ‘Hidcote Giant’ HARDINESS RATING: H5 FLOWERS: blue FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer Also growing to around 1m tall, this Lavandula has narrow greyish-green foliage and bears long-stemmed spikes of violet-blue flowers in summer. Again, this option is H5 hardy and is typically not a lavender that you will have to worry about too much over the winter months as long as the drainage is sufficient. 15) L. x intermedia ‘Sussex’ COMMON NAME(S): lavender ‘Sussex’ HARDINESS RATING: H5 FLOWERS: purple FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer Also sometimes called ‘Arabian Night’ this variety is another hybrid lavender. It forms a shrub around 75cm in height and, in the mid and late summer, bears beautiful flower spikes of a dark blue-purple hue. Again, this cultivar is H5 hardy. 16) L. pedunculata subsp. pedunculata COMMON NAME(S): French lavender HARDINESS RATING: H3 FLOWERS: purple FLOWERING SEASON(S): spring / summer This is a ‘French’ lavender that is also known as butterfly lavender to some. It is a bushy evergreen shrub with silvery green leaves and small violet-purple flowers in oval-shaped heads with large purple bracts at the top of each head. Note that this is a more tender type, which will need some winter protection in all but the mildest and most sheltered of southern and coastal gardens. It is H3 hardy. 17) L. ‘Ballerina’ COMMON NAME(S): lavender ‘Ballerina’ HARDINESS RATING: H4 FLOWERS: purple, white and pink FLOWERING SEASON(S): spring / summer / autumn This is a hybrid French lavender that was introduced from New Zealand. It has an upright growth habit, silvery green foliage and purple flowers borne on stems in dense spires, with conspicuous bracts at the top which are white that turn more purplish with age. Though this is a hardy plant, it will need a sheltered spot in full sun. When provided with the right growing conditions, it can bloom over a long period from late spring right through the summer months. 18) L. stoechas ‘Pretty Polly’ COMMON NAME(S): Lavender ‘Pretty Polly’ HARDINESS RATING: H4 FLOWERS: purple and white FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer / autumn This attractive French lavender grows to around 45cm tall. It has flowers that are a deep purple and the heads, which flower between early summer and early autumn, are topped by white bracts with a green line down the middle of them. This option is H4 hardy and, like other Lavandula stoechas, it has very good drought resistance. 19) L. ‘Willow Vale’ COMMON NAME(S): French lavender ‘Willow Vale’ HARDINESS RATING: H3 FLOWERS: purple FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer This French lavender grows to around 75cm in height. It has yellowish-green leaves and erect stems that bear dense clusters of deep violet flowers, above which very notable reddish-purple bracts stand out. This is an option for milder and warmer gardens and will often need protection in winter in the UK as it is only H3 hardy. 20) L. stoechas subsp. stoechas f. rosea ‘Kew Red’ COMMON NAME(S): French lavender ‘Kew Red’ HARDINESS RATING: H4 FLOWERS: pink FLOWERING SEASON(S): spring / summer Last but not least, this unusual French lavender variety differs from many others in the colour of its blooms and bracts. The shrubs grow around 50cm tall and bear on them deep pink to red flowers with deep purple calyces below pale pink bracts. This is another lavender that needs a sheltered spot out of the winds and as warm and mild a position as possible, though it is still H4 hardy. Of course, this list by no means exhausts the number of lavenders that you could potentially grow. You might also consider many other varieties, especially if you bring plants indoors over the winter months because, if you do, you can also consider some other more tender lavender varieties. However, I would argue that these options are among the best for growing in UK gardens.
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Specialist Orchid Sellers Share 10 Essential Watering Tips To Keep Your Plant Happy
IN THIS GUIDE 1) Water Weekly In The Growing Season 2) Reduce Watering In Winter 3) Maintain Moist (But Not Waterlogged!) Conditions 4) Opt For A Clear Container 5) Use Rainwater 6) Use Water At Room Temperature 7) Water From Above Or Below 8) Do Not Wet The Leaves Or The Crown 9) Don’t Feed Every Time You Water 10) Only Mist The Foliage And Aerial Roots References Orchids are impressive and popular for growing indoors. The most popular are moth orchids, also known as Phalaenopsis, which are epiphytic plants from tropical climes that make wonderful house plants and cope well in centrally heated spaces.1 Though they can grow very well in our homes, caring for orchids like these correctly is essential and, when it comes to orchid care, watering is one of the most important things of all. “If there’s one factor that can make or break your orchid growing experience, it’s water,” says Daniel Toor, the Owner of The Dark Orchid. The key to success with any orchid is keeping the roots neither too wet nor too dry, but there are other things to consider. Here are 10 tips to help you make sure that you water moth orchids correctly: Water weekly during the growing season. Reduce watering in winter and pay attention to light levels and temperatures. Maintain moist but not waterlogged conditions. Consider a clear container so you can see if the soil is moist more clearly. Use rainwater to water orchids wherever possible. Make sure that the water you use is at room temperature. When watering, water from above or below. Do not wet the leaves or crown when watering. Don’t feed every time you water. Mist foliage and aerial roots but not the flowers. You’ll find more detail on each of these points (including commentary from expert orchid growers) below. Difficulty Easy Equipment Required Watering can, rainwater When To Water Weekly (growing season), fortnightly (winter) 1) Water Weekly In The Growing Season When growing moth orchids, the amount that you water will vary depending on a number of different factors. However, as a general rule of thumb, you can expect to water your moth orchid once a week through most of the year and a little less during the coldest months. “Water and feed once a week in the summer but every 10 days in the winter, ensuring the plant is removed to the kitchen draining board so that all excess water will run away,” says Malcolm Moodie from the Solihull & District Orchid Society. 2) Reduce Watering In Winter In the winter months, you are likely to have to water your orchid a little less frequently, but you will still have to keep an eye on your orchid to make sure that the roots are not allowed to dry out entirely. Remember, the amount of water required will vary somewhat based on environmental factors like light levels and temperatures. 3) Maintain Moist (But Not Waterlogged!) Conditions Your goal when growing moth orchids is to keep the roots happy and healthy. The roots do need access to moisture consistently, but they cannot tolerate getting entirely dried out, nor can they handle being waterlogged either. As an orchid parent, your goal is to make sure that you keep the roots in the ‘Goldilocks zone’ – just right. 4) Opt For A Clear Container Getting the watering right is the most challenging thing about growing most houseplants and moth orchids are, of course, no exception. Working out when to water involves examining your orchid. “The biggest problem tends to be with people overwatering orchids in the home,” says Sara Rittershausen from Burnham Nurseries Ltd. “Watering too often means that the roots don’t dry out enough and then they can rot and not function, leading to the plant dehydrating. “Always check the pot once a week but only water when dry until you get to know how often your orchid needs to be watered.” Choosing a clear container for your moth orchid can be a good idea because it can help you to see when the compost is moist and when it dries out through its colour. This can help with keeping the moisture levels just right for the orchid roots. “Clear pots make the process of knowing when to water far easier,” shares Horticultural Consultant Colin Skelly. “There is a distinct contrast between moist and dry compost, providing a visual marker which is particularly important in winter to avoid overwatering.” Some roots can also photosynthesise, which is another reason to choose a clear receptacle. 5) Use Rainwater Chlorinated tap water is not good for orchids, so it is best wherever possible to use rainwater to water your moth orchids. “Try to use rainwater, if possible, especially in hard water areas,” says Malcolm. If this is not possible, then it is best to boil tap water before you use it. 6) Use Water At Room Temperature It is also important not to use water that is too frigid to water your delicate orchids. “Bring your rainwater into the house 24 hours before use to ensure the water is at the same temperature as the plant,” adds Malcom. Make sure that the water you use is at room temperature before you water. 7) Water From Above Or Below You can water moth orchids from above, making sure that you discard any water that ends up in the saucer or plant tray below the container. Alternatively, you can fill a bowl or sink and place your orchid in it for a period of time, before returning it to its usual position. 8) Do Not Wet The Leaves Or The Crown However, whether watering from above or below, make sure that you do not get water splashing onto the leaves or the crown, as this can increase the likelihood of a number of issues, including fungal problems. Make sure you get the water to the roots where it is needed. 9) Don’t Feed Every Time You Water Orchids require feeding for best results and specialist orchid feeds are often given when watering. However, if you feed every time you water, this can lead to a build-up of salts that can be detrimental to your orchid. So, make sure that every fourth time you water, you do so without feeding so that you flush salts through. Remember, feeding should also only be in summer and you do not need to feed much, if at all, over the winter months. 10) Only Mist The Foliage And Aerial Roots In hot weather, mature moth orchids may need to be misted daily in order to increase humidity where this may be low. “Do not water too often and mist regularly to create humidity,” says Sara. When misting, make sure that you mist the foliage and aerial roots and avoid misting the flowers, as this can cause spotting or patchiness to develop on the petals of the blooms. References 1. Research Guides: Phalaenopsis (moth orchid). (n.d.). New York Botanical Gardens. Retrieved March 29, 2023, from https://libguides.nybg.org/phalaenopsis
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Fuchsia Grown From Seed Is Very Challenging But It Can Be Done - Here's How
IN THIS GUIDE Sow Fuchsia In Early Spring 1) Collect Your Seeds 2) Separate The Seeds From The Berries 3) Let The Seeds Dry 4) Sow Your Fuchsia Seeds 5) Place On A Sunny Windowsill To Germinate Fuchsias are well-loved and attractive flowering plants which can be great choices for many gardens. There are some that are hardy and some that are too tender for year-round growing outdoors. Whichever fuchsia you grow, there are several ways to propagate your plants and obtain more new plants for your garden. Fuchsias are most commonly propagated by means of cuttings, which is a very easy and reliable process, but you can also grow these plants from seed. Growing fuchsia from seed is far more challenging and does not always yield such positive results. However, growing fuchsia from seed is possible and can be interesting if you like to experiment in your garden and get new varieties of these plants. “If you wish to grow a particular cultivar then cuttings are the route to take for propagation,” adds Colin Skelly, a Horticultural Consultant. “If you have a species or are willing to experiment with the results of seed from cultivars (which will not come true) then harvesting seeds is an interesting option.” Fuchsia seeds are usually sown indoors in spring, around March or April. The process is relatively simple, though results can vary: Collect fuchsia seeds from the plant you wish to propagate. Separate the seeds from the sticky flesh of the fuchsia berries. Spread out the seeds to dry. Sow the seeds on the surface of seed-starting compost. Grow on the seedlings indoors. Difficulty Medium Equipment Required Seeds, pots, compost When To Sow March to April Sow Fuchsia In Early Spring Fuchsia seeds can be sown as soon as they are collected in the autumn, but in the UK, it is generally recommended to store the seeds over winter and sow them in the spring indoors, usually in March or April. 1) Collect Your Seeds It is sometimes possible to purchase fuchsia seeds, but if you already have some fuchsias in your garden, you might also consider collecting your own seed to sow. “Choose your variety in the knowledge that some will happily grow four feet or more in a season and keep this in mind when choosing the position for your fuchsia,” warns Gail Barber from the Sutton Coldfield Fuchsia Society. If you wish, you might carry out cross-pollination between specific fuchsias in the early summer to experiment with making your own fuchsia varieties. To collect the seeds, you will need to tie muslin bags over the berries that form from the flowers. For one thing, this will allow the fruits to mature fully without being eaten by birds and for another, it will prevent the loss of the seeds if the berries drop off. 2) Separate The Seeds From The Berries Once you have the ripe berries, which are soft and fully mature, take each one and, using a sharp knife, carefully scrape out the seeds from within. This is a fiddly process and a messy one as the fruit pulp is very sticky. 3) Let The Seeds Dry Once you have separated the seeds from the flesh of the fruits, spread these out on a piece of kitchen paper to dry. They will typically dry out in a warm room in around a week or so. Once they are dry, the seeds can be placed in airtight containers and placed in a dry, dark spot until spring. 4) Sow Your Fuchsia Seeds In March or April, take the seeds you collected (or seeds that you have purchased) and sow them on the surface of a good quality seed-starting potting mix, ideally topped with sharp sand. Sow seeds on the surface of this medium and firm them gently into place, but do not cover them, as light is required for germination. “Fuchsias grown both in pots and hardy varieties in the ground are more than happy with these conditions,” says Gail. Soak the pots and allow them to drain, making sure that excess water can drain away freely, then place your pots into a propagator in which temperatures of at least 18°C can be maintained. 5) Place On A Sunny Windowsill To Germinate Place your propagator on a sunny windowsill or in a greenhouse, maintaining bottom heat and ensuring that adequate ventilation is provided and maintained. Keep the potting medium moist but take care to avoid waterlogged conditions. Water from the base to avoid disturbing the seeds. Seedlings may take a variable length of time to germinate. It can be as little as a few weeks or as much as 4 months or so. Seedlings can be pricked out and potted on when the first few leaves appear. Young fuchsias often flower in their first year, but tend to do better from their second year. In some cases, overwintering in a frost-free location before planting out the following spring can be beneficial.
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Gail Barber Shares 3 Common Problems When Growing Fuchsia (And How To Fix Them)
IN THIS GUIDE 1) Environmental Problems 2) Pests 3) Diseases References Fuchsias can be extremely attractive plants. They fall into one of two categories: hardy fuchsias, which can be grown outside year-round in British gardens, and tender fuchsias, which are typically overwintered indoors or under cover. Whichever fuchsia you are growing, these plants tend to be fairly easy to grow, but you may encounter a range of growing problems and issues, including: Environmental problems such as sunlight and water (or a lack thereof). Issues with pests such as aphids, red spider mites and whitefly. Diseases such as fuchsia rust and grey mould. Fortunately, many of these problems are relatively easy to overcome. Below, we will take a brief look at some common issues and how to tackle them if you encounter them when growing fuchsias where you live. 1) Environmental Problems “Like many plants, the easiest way to kill a fuchsia is to give it too much or not enough water,” explains Gail Barber from the Sutton Coldfield Fuchsia Society and Gardening Guild. “Fuchsias are not fussy plants. However, if they are growing in pots, especially small pots, they must not be allowed to sit all day in scorching sunshine. “Move the plants into the shade in hot weather, keeping the compost damp but not soaking.” One other important thing to remember when growing fuchsia is the hardiness of the particular variety that you are growing. Tender fuchsia will not typically survive low winter temperatures in most British gardens. Hardy fuchsias may sometimes die back over winter but will survive below ground and should grow back in the spring if they do so. “The more you handle your plants, the easier it will become to know the weight of the pots, whether they are too dry, whether the leaves look healthy or if there’s a new problem you haven’t noticed before,” says Gail. 2) Pests “Like any plants, they do have their pests and diseases,” warns Gail. “Plants, especially those grown in greenhouses, can suffer from aphids, red spider mites and whitefly. “Keeping a check on your plants is the best way to deal with these.” We explore these pests in more detail below. Aphids & Whitefly Aphids, greenhouse whitefly and other sap-sucking insects can sometimes be minor pests when growing fuchsias. The latter is typically only an issue when growing fuchsias undercover. Outdoors in your garden, sap-sucking insects are best handled by attracting their predators such as ladybirds and lacewings in order to keep their numbers down in an organic garden. In a greenhouse, you might introduce parasitic wasps or other biological controls. Keeping the undercover growing area clean over winter and maintaining good ventilation within the space can also help prevent pest populations and the spread of diseases like sooty moulds due to these pests. Your goal should not be to eliminate them altogether but to keep their numbers down so that they are not a serious issue for your fuchsias and other plants. Vine Weevil Grubs “Plants grown outside in a healthy balanced garden face fewer threats from pests,” says Gail. “However, vine weevil is the nemesis of many gardeners, with their grubs eating the roots of not only fuchsias but hostas, primulas and heucheras to name a few.” Vine weevil grubs can eat the roots of fuchsia plants, especially those growing in containers. “Plants look completely normal, until one day they fall over after the grubs having eaten through their roots,” Gail explains. “These can be controlled by the use of nematodes.” Check for these regularly where they have been a problem, ensuring good hygiene in undercover growing areas and container gardens. Aim to encourage natural predation of these pests too by attracting things like birds, shrews, hedgehogs, frogs, toads and ground beetles to your garden. Capsid Bugs Capsid bugs may also be found causing problems for fuchsias. As these bugs feed between May and early September, signs of damage will arise on the plants. Leaves can become misshapen with brown spots and flower buds on fuchsias may fail to develop and drop off. However, a mild infestation need not always be a massive problem. Again, the best strategy to prevent their numbers getting out of control is to encourage natural predators like birds, hedgehogs and ground beetles to take up residence nearby. Mealybugs If you are growing fuchsias in a greenhouse then you may have a problem with mealybugs, which are common on houseplants and greenhouse container plants too. These bugs weaken plants and the honeydew they excrete allows the growth of sooty moulds. Large populations of these pests can stunt the growth of your fuchsias and reduce vigour. Sometimes, leaves may drop early. Check plants before bringing them into your greenhouse or garden, keeping new plants quarantined to make sure mealybugs or other pests are not introduced. In some cases, biological controls can be considered to tackle a serious greenhouse infestation, though small populations can usually be tolerated. “I have used biological controls for mealybugs in the past,” shares Colin Skelly, a Master Horticulturist. “I used an Australian ladybird larvae that is a voracious predator of mealy bugs. The temperatures need to be warm when introduced as they will become dormant in cooler weather.” Fuchsia Flea Beetle These metallic blue beetles make holes and small brown patches in the leaves of fuchsia plants and are active from April to September. They are around 5mm long, which is larger than most other flea beetles found in Britain. Small amounts of leaf loss will not usually be a major problem, so small populations of these flea beetles can typically be tolerated as part of the garden ecosystem. These beetles are a food source for beneficial wildlife like birds, frogs and ground beetles, so making sure you have plenty of these around should keep this minor pest in check. Red Spider Mite Red spider mites are sap-sucking mites that can cause mottled leaves and leaf drop on fuchsia plants. A heavy infestation can even kill the plants. Undercover, red spider mites can be difficult to control and they breed rapidly in warm conditions. Raising the humidity in a greenhouse, cleaning regularly, avoiding overcrowding and clearing out badly infected plants can help to reduce this problem. In extreme cases, biological controls like predatory mites and predatory midges might be introduced. Fuchsia Gall Mite A relatively new pest for fuchsia growers to worry about is the fuchsia gall mite, which was first found in mainland Britain back in 2007 and which has now spread throughout southern England and northwards into Wales.1 It can cause swollen and distorted growth at the shoot tips on fuchsias, often with red or yellowish-green discolouration. The flowers can also be deformed or may fail to develop altogether. The mites themselves are too small to be seen without a microscope. This mite does not kill fuchsias but it can affect their growth and appearance. If you encounter this problem, choose less susceptible varieties of fuchsia. In some cases, a predatory mite can also be introduced as a biological control. 3) Diseases Fuchsia Rust One fungal disease of fuchsias is fuchsia rust. This causes orange pustules to develop on the undersides of the leaves of fuchsia plants. It may also cause leaves to drop off and can reduce the vigour and general health of fuchsia plants. Pick off any affected foliage from your fuchsias promptly if you notice this problem and give your fuchsias a feed to boost their vigour and resilience. Grey Mould Another common fungal problem that can affect fuchsias is grey mould, which causes soft decay of plant tissues, causing stems and leaves to turn brown and develop fuzzy, greyish-brown mould. It is worst where fuchsias are growing undercover and where conditions are overcrowded and humid. Ensure good ventilation and spacing for good airflow between plants. Practice good hygiene with your plants and remove any affected material immediately to carefully reduce the spread of this problem. References 1. Fuchsia gall mite / RHS Gardening. (n.d.). Royal Horticultural Society. Retrieved March 29, 2023, from https://www.rhs.org.uk/biodiversity/fuchsia-gall-mite
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Propagate Cucumbers From Seed: It's Best To Start Them Between February And April
IN THIS GUIDE When To Sow Cucumber Seeds 1) Acquire Your Seeds 2) Choose A Suitable Spot 3) Sow Cucumber Seeds 4) Pot Up Or Plant Out Cucumbers taste amazing when you have grown them yourself at home and doing so is well worth the effort. Even a single plant, when properly placed and cared for, can be amazingly productive, often giving you more cucumbers than you can eat over the summer months. Fortunately, growing your own cucumbers is not hugely challenging. Although you can purchase young plants rather than propagating your own, it is relatively easy to grow your own cucumber from seed, as well as being an eco-friendly and sustainable choice. Cucumbers are typically sown indoors between mid-February and late April or, with some varieties suited to outside cultivation, in late May or early June. To grow cucumbers from seed: Choose and source your cucumber seeds. Decide where to sow and grow your cucumbers. Sow seeds either indoors or directly where they are to grow. Pot up cucumber seedlings as required or plant out indoor-sown cucumbers outdoors in early June. Difficulty Easy Equipment Required Pots or seed discs, seed-starting compost, cucumber seeds When To Sow February to April (indoors), May to June (outdoors) When To Sow Cucumber Seeds Cucumber seeds should usually be sown indoors or undercover in a heated propagator. When precisely you sow indoors will depend on where you decide to grow your crop. If you plan to grow your cucumbers in a heated greenhouse, then you should sow between mid-February and mid-March. If you are growing your cucumbers in an unheated greenhouse or polytunnel, sow them sometime in April. If you plan on growing suitable cucumber varieties outdoors then it is also best to sow in late April. 1) Acquire Your Seeds If you want to grow cucumbers from seed then one of the first decisions that you will have to make is which particular cucumber varieties you will grow. Remember, there are many different varieties to choose from. Some are best suited to growing in a greenhouse or polytunnel, while others are suited to outdoor cultivation. It is important to make sure that you choose the right variety or varieties for you and your intended growing location. 2) Choose A Suitable Spot Remember, you can grow cucumbers in a heated greenhouse space, in an unheated greenhouse or polytunnel, or outdoors in your garden. It is important to make this decision before you start sowing because, as mentioned above, it will dictate the timing for sowing the seeds. You will also need to decide whether you will sow your seeds indoors or directly outside where they are to grow. If you are growing outside, then you might still sow indoors or you might sometimes direct sow if you live in a milder area. However, sowing indoors is generally the best policy for most of us in the British Isles. 3) Sow Cucumber Seeds Cucumber seeds that you decide to sow indoors should be sown 1-2cm deep in small pots or in the ground if directly sowing. The seeds should be sown on their side. Make sure that you keep the seeds in moist seed-starting compost and at temperatures of 21°C for successful germination. Although a sunny windowsill will often do, a heated propagator can increase your chances of success. 4) Pot Up Or Plant Out If you have sown indoors, then you should pot up your cucumber seedlings into pots at least 25cm in diameter that are filled with good quality, peat-free potting compost. Typically, you will do this in late March if growing in a heated greenhouse or in late May in an unheated undercover growing area. Alternatively, you can plant cucumbers into the ground or raised beds either under cover or outdoors. Undercover, you may plant out into the greenhouse or polytunnel beds or borders in May or early June. Outside, you will typically wait until early June and may see better results if you first warm the soil with row covers or cloches. “Given the need to delay sowing due to the need for soil temperatures to increase, sowing indoors, even on a windowsill, will produce more reliable germination than growing outside,” shares Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly. “They will also be far less prone to suffering damage at an early stage of growth due to slugs and snails.” Wherever you choose to sow and grow your cucumbers, take good care of your plants and you will surely be rewarded with a bounty of cucumbers for your salads throughout summer and often well into autumn.
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Sow Aubergines Between January And March Indoors - Emily Cupit Shows How
IN THIS GUIDE When To Sow Aubergines 1) Choose & Source Your Aubergine Seeds 2) Decide Where To Sow & Grow 3) Prepare The Containers For Sowing 4) Sow Your Aubergine Seeds 5) Pot Up Seedlings Or Plant Out Growing your own aubergines from seed is certainly not the simplest of gardening jobs. However, as long as you can provide plenty of sunshine and warmth for this heat-loving crop through the summer months, it is possible. New cultivars make it a little easier for gardeners in the British Isles to grow aubergines at home. Sow aubergine seeds indoors early in the year for the best chances of a successful harvest later in the year. Seeds are typically sown between January and March indoors, or occasionally, in the very warmest areas, in April outside where they are to grow. To grow aubergines from seed: Choose and source your aubergine seeds. Decide where to sow and grow your aubergines. Prepare the sowing areas. Sow your aubergine seeds in a heated propagator or warm location indoors. Grow on indoors then pot up or plant out between April and early June (depending on growing location). Difficulty Medium Equipment Required Pots, seed-starting compost, aubergine seeds, heated propagator (optional) When To Sow January to March (indoors), March to April (outdoors) When To Sow Aubergines Aubergines, even those best suited to UK cultivation, do need as long a growing season as possible. Therefore, it is usually best to sow the seeds early in the year, most commonly indoors. When precisely you should sow depends on where your aubergines will be growing. If you will be growing in a heated greenhouse, January sowing is typically recommended. For an unheated greenhouse or polytunnel, sometime in February or early March is generally best. If you plan to grow aubergines outside, then waiting until early March to sow your seeds is generally recommended. 1) Choose & Source Your Aubergine Seeds Of course, if you want to grow aubergines from seed then the first step will be to source your seeds in the first place. Choosing an aubergine variety suited to growing in the cooler British climate is important. Some good options include ‘Bonita’, ‘Clara’, ‘Garline’ and ‘Kaberi’, all of which have an Award of Garden Merit from the RHS. You can see that I have chosen to grow ‘Black Beauty’. 2) Decide Where To Sow & Grow Once you have your seeds and ideally before you even consider growing aubergines, you need to think carefully about where you will sow and grow these plants. It is important to make sure that you have a suitable spot for sowing and a suitable location to grow the crop. To sow aubergines, you need to have a location for sowing where temperatures can be maintained between 18-21°C. Typically, this will be a location within your home in a heated space or in a heated propagator – a piece of equipment that will greatly increase your chances of successful germination. To grow aubergines, you need to have a warm spot too. Aubergines are sun and heat-loving plants that will do best during warm summers or undercover here in the UK. They will usually perform best in a greenhouse or an unheated polytunnel, though aubergines can be grown outside in the mildest and warmest regions of the south. 3) Prepare The Containers For Sowing Once you have a plan in place for where you will sow and grow aubergines where you live, you can think about sowing your seeds. As mentioned above, when you sow will depend on where you plan to grow. But in all cases, aubergine seeds are sown in pots or modules filled with a suitable peat-free seed starting compost. Prepare your containers, growing medium and heated propagator (if you have one), ensuring that they are ready for sowing. 4) Sow Your Aubergine Seeds Sow the seeds into moist seed-starting compost, covering them lightly. Remember to place them in a propagator or another spot with temperatures between 18-21°C. Keep them in this warm location until they germinate, then move to a sunny windowsill or under grow lights so they do not get leggy from lack of light. 5) Pot Up Seedlings Or Plant Out Grow aubergine seedlings indoors, then pot up in 9-23cm pots when the pots are filled with roots that are just beginning to emerge from the holes at the base. This is typically done in April if you are growing in a heated greenhouse, in early May if sowing undercover but in an unheated space and in late May or early June if they are growing outdoors. Aubergines can also be planted in the ground in the very warmest, sunniest and most sheltered areas in the south. “Growing in a polytunnel or greenhouse will dramatically increase the prospects for aubergines in most UK locations,” shares Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly. “They prefer stable, warm conditions with plenty of light and will not like prolonged spells of wet, cool weather that are a feature of UK summers.” Only plant out once there is absolutely no risk of frost and, ideally, warm the soil with cloches or row covers before planting.
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If You Must Prune Viburnum It's Possible - But Remember They Flower On 2 Year Old Wood
IN THIS GUIDE When To Prune Viburnum 1) Pruning For Maintenance 2) Annual Pruning 3) Pruning For Renovation Do you like the sound of a vigorous, hardy, fragrant, low-maintenance bush offering an array of choices in size, blooming season, foliage type and berry colour? If you do, a viburnum is right for you. There are so many types of viburnums that vary from small shrubs that are a mere few centimetres high to large specimens that reach nearly 4m in height – with spreads to match. Although virtually all viburnums need next to no pruning, most varieties can tolerate hard pruning. There are 3 main reasons why you might prune viburnum, which are: For maintenance. For annual shaping. For renovation. Underneath, I have outlined these 3 styles of pruning in more detail and identified the species or hybrid groups that should be pruned in a particular style. Learn more about pruning viburnum below. Difficulty Medium Equipment Required Gardening gloves, secateurs, pruning shears, anvil loppers or pruning saw When To Prune Varies When To Prune Viburnum “Pruning of viburnums is something that one should avoid by all means,” shares Gary Ladman from Classic Viburnums. “There are enough viburnums available that you should be able to find one that fits the site rather than pruning to make it fit. “Another consideration is that viburnums flower on two-year-old wood. “With continuous pruning, the majority of your branches will consist of one-year wood, resulting in a lack of or less flowering.” However, if you have to prune, it is possible. The main rule when it comes to pruning viburnum is that most regular styles of pruning should be done immediately after the flowering season is over. This is because viburnum forms buds on the previous season’s growth and not on the current season’s growth, so if you delay pruning to a favourable season, it would be too late, as the buds will have already formed. Be aware that the drawback to pruning immediately after flowering is that you will lose some quantity of colourful berries, for which many viburnum varieties are deservedly prized. 1) Pruning For Maintenance Pruning V. plicatum, V. × juddii and their respective cultivars should be limited to only this type of pruning. As a general rule, V. carlesii, V. tinus, V. opulus, V. davidii and their cultivars should also be pruned in this style, but they may be hard pruned as and when necessary. All other variety groups may, of course, be pruned in this fashion in addition to the style of pruning described for them. Dead, damaged, or diseased branches should be pruned. This is the only type of pruning that may be done at any time of the year. Soon after the flowering season, trim, rather than prune, what few overly long, untidy or protruding stems there may be. Cut them just above a node. 2) Annual Pruning An annual prune is beneficial for V. farreri, V. × bodnantense, V. tinus, V. rhytidophyllum and their respective cultivars. These are especially strong-growing and vigorous shrubs and, therefore, are more likely to get out of shape, outgrow their space or become overgrown compared with other viburnum types. Take either or both of the following steps as appropriate soon after the flowering season is over. Trim branches to restrict the shrub from growing out of its allocated space and also to maintain a pleasing shape. Prune up to 1/3 of the branches to 30-50% of their lengths using pruning shears, making the cuts just above a node. When trimming, be mindful that withered blooms will form berries, so you may wish to pick and choose the branches accordingly. The second step is to prune up to 1/3 of the oldest, most unproductive stems by cutting them at the base. Use a pruning saw or anvil loppers as appropriate. 3) Pruning For Renovation Many viburnum species and their respective cultivars may be hard pruned to renovate them if required. These are V. farreri, V. opulus, V. davidii, V. carlesii, V. tinus, V. × bodnantense and their respective cultivars. If any of these varieties of viburnums are hopelessly overgrown, unkempt or have an abundance of lanky, straggly stems, it may be hard pruned to regenerate it. V. opulus, V. davidii and their respective cultivars respond especially well to this style of pruning. Renovation pruning is a 2-year process. Unlike other types of pruning, renovation pruning should be done in spring. The deciduous varieties, such as V. opulus and V. farreri, should be pruned in February to March, whilst the evergreen ones, such as V. davidii and V. tinus are best pruned in March or April. Using a pruning saw or anvil loppers, simply cut back about half the stems to about 20cm from the ground. Do not prune stems from one side or another as the shrub will look unsightly after pruning. Instead, pick and choose stems so as to minimise the negative aesthetic impact. Also, it is desirable to prune a greater number of stems from the interior or centre of the shrub in the first year to reset it for an ultimately pleasing and aesthetic shape. Water well after pruning and be sure that the plant’s watering needs throughout the year are met. Lightly feed the shrub with a balanced or nitrogen-oriented fertiliser after pruning. The following year, cut back the other half of the branches to about 20cm from the ground. Follow the same watering and feeding guidelines as you did in the first year.
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5 Common Begonia Problems & Solutions With Specialist Grower Janeen Randle
IN THIS GUIDE 1) Begonia Tubers Not Sprouting 2) Drooping Flower Buds 3) Spots On The Begonia Leaves 4) Whitefly Damage 5) Scale Insects On Begonia Foliage Other Issues To Look Out For Begonias are rich bloomers that can add a colourful, tropical vibe to your garden, patio or home. Not only are begonias gorgeous to look at, but they are also super easy to grow and require little maintenance. That said, there are a few problems you may run up against, including: Begonia tubers not sprouting. Drooping flower buds. Brown spots on the leaves of the begonia, often caused by watering issues. Damage caused by whiteflies. A scale insect infestation. Mealybug infestations that leave a woolly substance. Powdery mildew covering leaves and flowers. In this article, we take a look at these issues that you might face and look at how to solve and avoid them. 1) Begonia Tubers Not Sprouting You need your begonia tubers to sprout before you plant them in pots and containers. So, if you have followed all the steps for starting begonia tubers and they still aren’t sprouting, you can try soaking them in lukewarm water for around half an hour. Then, you should place them back in a polybag in a warm spot, such as an airing cupboard. 2) Drooping Flower Buds Your begonia’s buds may drop from over or under-watering. Most begonias grow best when you let the soil or compost dry out slightly in between watering. That said, you shouldn’t let the soil dry out completely, as this will cause the buds to start to drop. Likewise, over-watering your begonias can cause bud drop, so always check the soil or compost before you water. A sudden change in temperature can also be problematic for buds. When you are moving your begonia tubers from the warm place where you’ve stored them, be sure to heat the soil that you will be planting them in for 24 hours beforehand so it doesn’t give them too much of a shock. 3) Spots On The Begonia Leaves Finding brown or transparent spots and blotches on your begonia leaves is usually due to improper watering. If you splash the petals when you water, your begonias will soak in excess water and cause unsightly stains. Avoid this problem by shielding the flower heads when misting and watering the plant at the base. Definitely avoid using overhead sprinklers. 4) Whitefly Damage Whiteflies are a common problem with begonias and leave white, powdery dust on the leaves. A whitefly infestation can cause the leaves to yellow and to have a mottled appearance. You may also visibly see the little beasties flying around the plant if the infestation is particularly severe. You can use sticky traps to remove whitefly or opt for an insecticide spray. 5) Scale Insects On Begonia Foliage If your begonias have white, cotton-like lumps or ugly, brown bumps on them, then the problem is probably scale. Scale insects are unusual little creatures which appear to be inanimate and will eventually lead your begonia foliage to yellow and wilt or become discoloured and deformed. You can get rid of these pesky pests with a toothbrush. Dip it in soapy water and gently brush the affected areas. You can also spray the plant with neem oil to see off any remaining offenders. Other Issues To Look Out For Begonia expert Janeen Randle from the Melbourne Begonia Society shares a couple more issues to be wary of when growing begonias: “The most common problem and the most difficult to keep on top of is the mealybug, which is caused by a woolly substance that is secreted around the bug’s egg masses. “A cotton bud saturated with methylated spirit usually controls a single infestation. “If all plants are affected, spraying with repeat treatments may be necessary.” Another issue Janeen says might affect your begonias is powdery mildew. “Good air circulation is necessary to fix this problem, but you could also spray the plant with a good fungicide if needed.”
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Feeding And Mulching: Experts Weigh In On Meeting Roses’ Nutritional Needs
IN THIS GUIDE When To Feed Roses Why You Should Fertilise Roses The Importance Of Choosing Organic Options Healthy Soil Equals Happy Roses Feeding Roses Growing In The Ground Feeding Roses Growing In Containers Mulching Roses References Roses are among the most popular flowers grown in the UK and consistently top charts of peoples’ favourite flowers. Fortunately, these favourites come in a wide range of varieties to suit almost any garden and they are generally relatively easy to grow. “The sheer amount of blooms and all the variations in fragrance, flower form and all the variations make me so passionate about growing roses,” says Stewart Pocock, a Partner at the specialist nursery Pocock’s Roses. “They are a truly diverse genus of plants.” Meeting roses’ nutritional needs and feeding roses what they need is one key concern for those who grow them. Feeding roses is something we’d typically consider before planting each year in the spring. Here are some of the key pieces of information you need to know: Feed roses each year in March-April. Mulch after feeding with a rich organic matter. Choose organic options to avoid harm to the environment and wildlife. Container-grown roses need feeding more than those in the ground. Read on for more information about keeping roses in top condition. Difficulty Easy Equipment Required Fertiliser, mulch, watering can When To Feed Spring or throughout the flowering season When To Feed Roses Roses are typically provided with a growing medium or soil that provides a good proportion of the nutrients that they need. Choosing the right site to grow roses is, therefore, the number one thing that can be the difference between success and failure. That said, roses are hungry plants, which do require a lot of nutrition to grow and flower well. This means that they perform best when they are fed at least once a year and mulched well with organic matter after feeding. Roses in the ground should usually be fed and mulched in March or April each year. Those in containers will require more work and are typically provided with a liquid plant feed every second week from the middle of spring to late summer. Why You Should Fertilise Roses “The most important thing when caring for roses is to feed them at least twice a year to help keep them strong and healthy,” says Chris Styles, a partner at Style Roses. “Regular fortnightly spraying during active growth before you see problems is recommended. You can alternate with natural bee-friendly products like Sulphur Rose, Uncle Tom’s Tonic and SB Plant Invigorator. “These fertilisers will vastly improve the performance of your roses and eliminate most disease issues.” Roses can often survive without any feeding at all when they are growing wild in a healthy soil. Our own native rose varieties are extremely resilient and hardy and can cope with a wide range of soil conditions. However, most of the roses grown in UK gardens are hybrid types or those that have been bred over generations to have the optimal visual appeal. These plants are somewhat fussier than wild roses and are very hungry plants that often need additional feeding to perform at their best. In many instances, where the soil is healthy and fertile, a good quality organic mulch can be sufficient to keep roses growing and blooming well. “Alongside a good watering and feeding regime, a good mulch also provides a barrier from pests and diseases,” says Ben Stirton, the nursery manager at Country Garden Roses. However, where the soil may be lacking in nutrients or where the growing conditions are not ideal, feeding is often essential to get the right results. The Importance Of Choosing Organic Options Unfortunately, for many gardeners, the usual response when growing roses is to reach for non-organic, synthetic fertilisers. These can sadly often do more harm than good and are a poor choice for wildlife and the environment. What’s more, roses themselves may suffer or fail to thrive due to over-feeding with synthetic fertilisers. Whenever you are seeking sustainable and eco-friendly options for feeding roses, it is important to restrict yourself to organic options. Healthy Soil Equals Happy Roses The key thing to remember about feeding roses is that roses take their nutrition from the soil or growing medium in which they grow and they need a good quality and fertile soil or growing medium to thrive. One interesting thing that goes on below the soil around roses is that roses form a symbiosis with mycorrhizae, which form fungal networks stretching out from the roots of the roses into the surrounding soil.1 This type of connection occurs with many plants and it significantly increases the amount of soil the plants can access for nutrients and water, expanding their root system.2 Often, ensuring healthy soil means building healthy fungal networks that aid roses and other plants meaning that less intervention from us is required. When feeding roses, the first step is always to ensure that you have healthy soil that is rich in organic matter and supports and sustains a wide variety of life, including the microbial life that helps roses and other plants to thrive. “Using mycorrhizal fungi granules at planting time on all roses makes a huge difference to the establishment and the performance of roses,” says Chris. We can maintain healthy soil by disturbing it as little as possible, protecting it with living roots, ground cover and mulches, and, of course, by gardening organically at all times. Feeding Roses Growing In The Ground When roses are growing in the soil, they can tap into the resources present in the soil in which they grow since, thanks to mycorrhizae, they can draw on nutrients even beyond their own root systems. This means that they can often be content with much less feeding than roses that are grown in containers, confined beds or planters. However, as mentioned above, especially where the soil may leave something to be desired, feeding can definitely be important in order to achieve the right results. Often, feeding roses more than once a year is recommended, but if your soil is healthy, it is generally only necessary to feed once a year in the spring by sprinkling organic fertiliser around the base of the plants. “Feed in spring with a slow-release fertiliser, such as osmocote,” Stewart suggests. It can be helpful to understand which nutrients might be lacking in your soil in order to understand which organic fertiliser you might add and you can often use things from your home to make your own feeds rather than buying anything. “I feed my roses annually with a granular feed like national growmore, tonk’s rose feed or fish blood and bone,” shares David Allison from the NSALG. “I then add a high potash liquid feed during the season to encourage good strong colours in the blooms.” To name a few examples, you might add: Egg shells for calcium. Banana peels for potassium and magnesium. Fish bones for a number of micro-nutrients and phosphorus. These and other organic additions can be added to a planting hole when planting new roses or crushed, chopped and spread around the roses in spring before you mulch around the area with your primary slow-release feed and mulch material. “From late May onwards, feed weekly with either a liquid rose fertiliser or a liquid tomato fertiliser,” adds Stewart. “We use Uncle Tom’s rose tonic regularly and this helps immensely with flower production.” Feeding Roses Growing In Containers “Roses have a big appetite and if you satisfy the need for food and water, you will get more flowers,” Philip from Harkness Roses says. Roses growing in containers, as mentioned above, need more feeding than those growing in the soil because they do not have the wonderful web within the soil to fall back on. Therefore, they will be more dependent on us, as gardeners, to meet their needs. “Use good quality compost and add a slow-release fertiliser in spring,” says Philip. “During the growing season, use a liquid feed once every two weeks or so.” The fortnightly feed for roses before buds form should be a general-purpose, relatively balanced organic liquid fertiliser, such as compost tea. You can make your own compost tea as long as you make your own compost at home. Once the flower buds form, it is then best to switch to a potassium-rich organic liquid plant feed. This is also something that you can make yourself at home, using any potassium-rich leaves from plants like comfrey or other dynamic accumulators of potassium. Mulching Roses Mulching roses is, for me at least, the most important stage when it comes to caring for roses and making sure that they have the nutrition they need throughout the year. I always mulch roses with good quality homemade compost or manure after any other fertilisers are added in the spring. I replenish this mulch each spring, on the surface of the soil or on top of the growing medium in containers. “A good pruning regime and an annual mulch of organic matter which will do three things,” says David Allison. “It will provide nutrients to the roots as it decomposes, act as a weed suppressant and help to retain moisture in the soil.” The mulch not only protects the soil and provides slow-release fertility throughout the summer as the mulch breaks down, but it also helps to suppress weed growth, thereby ensuring that roses do not have as much competition to contend with and are able to grow strong. References 1. Mycorrhizal Fungi. (n.d.). David Austin Roses. Retrieved March 20, 2023, from https://www.davidaustinroses.co.uk/products/david-austin-mycorrhizal-fungi 2. Mahr, S. (n.d.-e). Mycorrhizae. Wisconsin Horticulture. Retrieved March 20, 2023, from https://hort.extension.wisc.edu/articles/mycorrhizae/
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