Growing
How Biennial Wallflowers Are Typically Grown From Seed (Or Via Plug Plants)
IN THIS GUIDE When To Sow Erysimum 1) Sow Wallflower Seeds 2) Place Tray In A Suitable Spot 3) Prick Out Seedlings & Pot On 4) Plant Out In Autumn / Spring Erysimum, also known as wallflowers, can be either perennial, biennial or annual and they can make great additions to many different gardens. Biennial wallflowers are the most common ones to grow. Typically called bedding wallflowers, these are usually grown from seed, though you can also purchase plug plants. To grow biennial bedding wallflowers from seed: Sow seeds into a seed tray filled with a suitable seed-starting potting mix. Place somewhere relatively cool but sheltered. After 4-5 weeks, prick out seedlings and pot on into their own individual containers. Plant out in the garden in autumn or the following spring. Read about this process in more detail below. When To Sow Erysimum Wallflower seeds are sown in the spring, typically between March and May. These plants are biennial, so you will need to tend your young plants throughout the summer, autumn and winter before you are rewarded with flowers the following spring. 1) Sow Wallflower Seeds Fill a seed tray with a suitably moist yet free-draining seed-starting compost, which is also peat-free. Then, sow your seeds sparsely into the surface of this medium, before covering them lightly with a fine layer of the potting mix. “When I first started gardening, we used to sow biennial wallflowers in seed beds outdoors,” shares Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly. “In the autumn, we would dig them up and transplant them to their final planting position. “Erysimum grown in a similar way in nurse beds are sold as bare-root perennials in the autumn from garden centres and by post. “If you want to grow quite a few Erysimum, this could be a useful technique to use at home.” 2) Place Tray In A Suitable Spot Place the tray in a cold frame or in a sheltered location outdoors and wait for germination to take place. Make sure that the medium stays moderately moist during this time. 3) Prick Out Seedlings & Pot On After 4-5 weeks, the seeds should have germinated and the seedlings will be large enough to handle. Holding each one by a leaf, gently prick them out and place them into their own individual pots to grow on until they are ready to plant out. Make sure that you tend the young plants, watering when required over the summer. 4) Plant Out In Autumn / Spring You can then plant out your young plants in autumn or keep them in their pots and plant them out the following spring. You should expect these biennial spring bedding plants to flower in the spring, around a year after sowing.
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You Can Grow Fritillaria In Pots, But Keep Them In A Greenhouse Says Dr Robert Wallis
IN THIS GUIDE Can You Grow Fritillaria In Pots? Choosing Suitable Containers Choosing A Compost Potting Up Bulbs Potted Snakeshead Fritillaries Care Snake’s Head Fritillary, Fritillaria meleagris, is a beautiful spring bulb which has very distinctive flowers, usually with a purple checked pattern. These can grow well in a range of different settings, as long as the conditions are moist but relatively free-draining and they are exposed to full sun or dappled shade. Can You Grow Fritillaria In Pots? “The vast majority of fritillarias grow quite happily in pots, as long as they are kept in a greenhouse”, shares Dr Robert Wallis from The Fritillaria Group. Robert is right: these spring bulbs can be great for growing in containers, though it is worthwhile noting that this will require a little more care than growing them in the ground. One of the key considerations is that watering needs will be higher, and balancing moisture content will be your key concern since these plants need some moisture but rarely tolerate any waterlogged soil. Another thing to think about is that F. meleagris are H5 hardy. They will make it through the winter fine when in the ground across most of the UK, but in pots, they will be somewhat more vulnerable and may need some extra insulation to protect them in the coldest parts of the British Isles. Choosing Suitable Containers When choosing a container for this plant, the most important thing is to choose a container with sufficient drainage that also does not dry out too quickly either. Terracotta pots can work well, as they can help regulate moisture content, but you can also use a range of repurposed objects as containers and up-cycling can be a great eco-friendly idea. Make sure that the pot or container you choose has good drainage at the base. “Depth is important when selecting a container,” Master Horticulturist Peter Lickorish explains. “A minimum of 30cm is ideal for most bulbs, and one nearly double this depth would be appropriate for the taller crown imperial fritillaries.” Choosing A Compost “The compost needs to be well-drained, so I’d normally use a loam-based medium with lots of added drainage material”, Robert recommends. Loam-based composts sink in pots, so it is worth firming down at intervals whilst filling pots, to prevent the level dropping too much later on. It is a good idea to add organic mulch over the top to improve drainage. Potting Up Bulbs Snake’s head fritillary bulbs should be planted at a depth of around 4 times their own height. The bulbs should be handled carefully as they can be quite fragile and you should plant them at least 10cm apart for more long-lasting container displays, or a little closer for a seasonal display. How Many Should You Plant Per Pot? You can place around 5 bulbs in a 10cm pot if you are planting on transferring the plants to your garden before they flower, or after they die back. But if planning on growing on in a container, you will usually aim for around 5-7 in a 30-40cm pot. However, remember that you can also combine fritillaries in a container for a mixed display with other plants. You can place other spring flowering or early summer flowering bulbs in layers to create a bulb lasagna, or you can plant up a container with other relatively low-growing perennials which like similar conditions and allow the snake’s heads to pop up through the other planting. Consider adding a trailing plant, like a variegated ivy, to further layer the interest. Potted Snakeshead Fritillaries Care Place your container in a sunny position, or in light, dappled shade. “Raising the container off solid surfaces using pot feet or placing pots on gravel will help ensure the much-needed drainage,” adds Peter. Water well, ensuring that the medium does not dry out, but also make sure that the medium does not become too waterlogged. “Watering is the most important factor in container cultivation”, says Dr Robert Wallis. “Although fritillaries should be kept moist during winter, water can be increased a bit as they come into growth in the spring”. “During the summer, withhold water. Overwatering is the usual cause of problems in pots”. “It results in root rots, poor growth, early dormancy and often loss of the bulbs”. If you decide to feed your container-grown fritillaries, make sure that you use an organic, potassium-rich fertiliser in spring. Too much nitrogen can encourage too much leafy growth rather than flowers. Top dress pots in spring with a mulch of potassium-rich compost or other organic material for slow-release fertility and moisture retention. Look out for slugs and snails in spring and for lily beetles in summer. Allow the foliage to die back naturally and do not remove it while it is still green. A period of photosynthesis is required for fritillaries to store nutrients required for next year’s growth and flowering. Once the leaves die back, you can cut back the stems to just above the level of the growing medium. In longer-term displays, you may decide to thin the clumps by removing bulbils from around the sides of the plants if things become a little congested. You can also easily take the small bulbils and plant them up in new containers to increase your plant collection over time.
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Propagating Chinese Money Plant - Look Out For Little Offsets At The Base Of Your Plant
IN THIS GUIDE 1) Choose Your Leaves 2) Take The Cutting(s) 3) Place Cutting(s) In Water 4) Pot Up Your Cutting(s) 5) Remove The Original Leaf The Chinese money plant is a houseplant that is pretty easy to grow successfully indoors in the UK and is highly prized for its rounded lush leaves and compact growth habit. Fortunately, it is relatively easy to propagate a Chinese money plant by looking out for the little offsets that form around the base of the parent plant and extricating them. However, on a plant where offsets have not emerged, you can also propagate these plants by means of leaf cuttings. To propagate a Chinese money plant from leaf cuttings: Identify the leaves to take as cuttings. Using a clean, sharp little craft knife or similar – cut leaves from the main stem, making sure that you retain a heel of the brown material at the end of the leaf stalk. Place the cuttings into water to root, replacing the water frequently. Once roots are 1-2 inches long, transplant them into pots filled with a moist yet free-draining growing medium. Once the new growth has reached a few inches tall, you can remove the original leaf, potting on your new little plant as required as it continues to grow. Each of these steps is explained in more detail below. Difficulty Easy to medium Equipment Required Sharp knife, pots, growing medium, glass When To Prune April-June 1) Choose Your Leaves First of all, select some leaves from an existing Pilea peperomioides plant to use for your leaf cuttings. You should select healthy leaves that are neither too young nor overly mature, but somewhere in the middle for best results. 2) Take The Cutting(s) When taking the leaves off the existing plant, it is important to understand that for cuttings of this type to root successfully, they must be removed from the parent plant with a small section of the brown stem tissue still attached. Trace the stem of the leaf down to the main brown stem and carefully use a sharp knife to remove this, with a small sliver of the brown material of the main stem intact. 3) Place Cutting(s) In Water Next, take your leaf, with its stem and the heel attached, and place the stem into a glass of water. You can use string, clips or special holders to keep the leaves themselves up and out of the water while the heel from which roots will form is in contact with the water below. Another strategy involves placing a plastic film over the top of a glass and making a small hole within it to poke the leaf stem through. Place the container with water in a light, bright location and change the water regularly to prevent any issues as you wait for roots and new growth to emerge. 4) Pot Up Your Cutting(s) After a while, you will see roots begin to grow from the cutting and new growth should emerge from the base. Once the roots are growing strongly and are around 1-2 inches long, you can remove the cutting from the water and place it into a pot filled with a suitably moist yet free-draining potting compost. 5) Remove The Original Leaf When in its new pot, the new growth at the base of the original cutting should continue to grow. Once this new growth is a few inches tall, it has become a new plant. “The water propagation system is very effective if you regularly change the water,” says Dan Ori, a Master Horticulturist. “I have had good success propagating directly into high peat-cutting composts in the past, but now I am growing peat-free, I use a dampened mix of one part fine vermiculite, one part coir and one part fine compost. “If I am not using a propagator, I place a plastic food bag over the top using an elastic band to fix the bag around the pot.” The original leaf of your cutting can, once the new plant is well rooted and growing strongly, be removed. The new plant can be potted on as necessary as it grows.
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Pot-Bound Chinese Money Plant? Repot Yours Every Few Years To Keep It Healthy
IN THIS GUIDE When To Repot Pilea Peperomioides 1) Ease Plant From Its Current Container 2) Check The Roots 3) Prepare New Pot 4) Repot And Firm In Chinese money plants are houseplants that can be remarkably forgiving and relatively easy to grow. However, one thing that you do have to think about is when you should repot your houseplant, and how to carry out this process successfully. Typically, it is best to repot these plants every 2-3 years to allow them to continue to grow strongly. Fortunately, repotting a Chinese money plant is relatively easy and straightforward. The process is simply to: Ease the plant from its current container. Check over the roots for signs of damage, pests or disease. Prepare a new container with a suitable growing medium. Place the plant into its new pot. Read on to learn more about this relatively simple process. Difficulty Easy Equipment Required Pot, growing medium When To Repot Pilea Peperomioides Chinese money plants like to be repotted when the roots have mostly filled their pot or container and should be repotted only when the roots emerge from the base of the pot. If a plant is still growing strongly and you can still see growing medium around the sides of the plant, you can leave it in place. Only when it fills the pot and potentially shows signs of poor growth or stress should you look to see whether it has become pot-bound. In general, you should consider repotting once every 2-3 years, unless there are signs that the plant is pot-bound before this time. Ideally, if you decide that it is time to repot your Chinese Money Plant, you should aim to undertake this job in spring or early summer to give it the best chance of reestablishing well in its new container. 1) Ease Plant From Its Current Container First of all, simply take your plant and ease it gently from its current pot, taking care not to damage the above-ground growth and roots. 2) Check The Roots Next, give the roots a once over to make sure that there are not any issues with root rot, pests or damage. If the roots are healthy, you can proceed. 3) Prepare New Pot It is important not to have too much empty growing medium around the root systems, as waterlogging is more likely to become an issue if this is the case. However, allowing a Chinese money plant to become badly potbound can also cause issues, also leading to waterlogged soil if roots entirely block drainage holes at the base of a container. Opt for a container that gives 1 inch of the growing medium around each side of the root system. Make sure that you fill your container with a moist yet free-draining medium. 4) Repot And Firm In Next, simply place the plant into the new container and ease in a little more of your growing medium around the sides of the roots. “As Pilea don’t like their roots being disturbed too often, repotting can be an excellent opportunity to take cuttings,” adds Dan Ori, a Horticultural Consultant. Give it a good watering and make sure you care for it correctly, placing it in the right location to give it the best chance of continued success.
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Are Leaves On Your Chinese Money Plant Turning Yellow Or Brown? Here's Why
IN THIS GUIDE 1) Underwatering Or Waterlogging 2) Incorrect Light Levels 3) Temperature Fluctuations 4) Nutrient Deficiencies 5) Pests Or Diseases Chinese money plants are popular houseplants that are relatively easy to grow and care for indoors in the UK. However, when growing these plants, there are certain things that can go wrong and brown or yellow leaves on your plant are often a sign of a problem. Most commonly, leaves turn brown or yellow if there are problems with the environmental conditions in which the plant is grown. Most commonly, brown or yellow leaves are a sign of a problem with: Water or drainage issues. Inadequate light levels. Changing and inconsistent temperature levels. Nutrient deficiencies in the growing medium. Pests or diseases. Read on to understand how you can prevent these issues or how to fix them if your leaves have already become discoloured. 1) Underwatering Or Waterlogging Many of the most common issues that crop up when growing Chinese money plants relate to water. Most commonly, overwatering is the most likely problem when plants are showing signs of stress. However, while these succulent plants are tolerant of fairly low-water conditions, a lack of water accessibility can also be the issue. If you are overwatering or underwatering, this is something that can easily be remedied, and once you are delivering the right amount of water, the plant should recover. Make sure that the container is not too large for the root system of the plant, since too large a container may promote waterlogging, as roots won’t reach the edges. Also check to make sure that the drainage of the pot you are using has not been compromised by roots blocking drainage holes. A plant becoming root-bound can affect water uptake and can also cause leaves to discolour. Waterlogged soil, caused by overwatering or a lack of drainage, can lead to root rot which can cause a range of other serious issues for your plant. “In my plant clinics held at garden centres, the most common cause of yellowing encountered in Pilea and all houseplants is waterlogging,” shares Horticultural Consultant Dan Ori. “This is normally because the plant sits in a pot cover with no drainage and when the plant is watered it is left swimming in excess water. I advise growing in a pot with drainage holes that you place in a decorative pot cover. “Let the plant dry almost completely out then you can take the pot with drainage holes out of its decorative pot cover and water until soaked through (the kitchen sink is a good place to soak it), after allowing it to drain for five minutes return it to its pot cover.” 2) Incorrect Light Levels Leaves can turn pale and droop where sunlight is insufficient. Brown spots can develop due to sunburn or sun scorch on leaves exposed to too much direct light. So, another important thing to check is that plants are getting the right amount of light. Make sure your plant is in a bright location, but one where it is out of direct sun during the brightest part of the day. 3) Temperature Fluctuations Leaves can sometimes die back or turn brown due to exposure to low temperatures. Remember, these plants are tender houseplants and should not be exposed to temperatures below around 12°C. Brown or yellow leaves can also be a sign of stress due to extreme fluctuations in temperature inside your home, or when transferred outside in summer. Make sure you place your plant indoors in a location where it is not exposed to sudden draughts and do not place it too close to a heat source, such as a stove or radiator, where temperatures swing from one extreme to the other. 4) Nutrient Deficiencies Another potential cause of yellow or brown leaves in Chinese money plants is a deficiency in certain nutrients. Although it can be challenging to determine which nutrients are lacking from the colour of the leaves alone, regular feeding can help prevent any such issues. To keep your plant healthy and happy, it is best to feed your houseplant with a weak, organic liquid plant feed every month or so during the growing season, and to repot your plant every 2-3 years with a new growing medium. 5) Pests Or Diseases Brown lumps on the leaves of your Chinese money plant can be scale insect infestation and a number of other pests that commonly plague houseplants can also leave their mark through the colour of the leaves. However, environmental issues are more common causes, so you should rule out the causes mentioned above before you delve deeper and look into other potential causes for brown or yellow leaves. Place your plant in the right location, in a suitable container with a suitable growing medium and care for it correctly, and you are far less likely to run into any issues and see signs of stress like brown or yellow leaves on your plant.
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Leaves Might Droop And Curl On A Chinese Money Plant If You Don't Fix These Problems
IN THIS GUIDE 1) Watering Issues 2) Poor Drainage 3) Poor Lighting 4) Nutrient Deficiencies 5) Temperature Issues The Chinese money plant is, generally speaking, relatively easy to grow as a houseplant in the UK. However, there are a number of problems that can arise if it is not provided with the optimal environmental conditions and cared for in the right way. Leaves often droop and curl if: Plants receive too much or too little water. Waterlogged conditions arise due to poor soil drainage. Plants are not getting enough light. They are not receiving the nutrients they require. Temperatures are too high or fluctuate wildly. Though certain other pests and diseases may be to blame, these are by far the most common causes and you should make sure that these are eliminated as potential causes before you explore further alternative problems. 1) Watering Issues Leaves that cup outwards are frequently a sign that you have watered too much and need to cut down on how much water you use or the frequency at which you water. However, leaves may also curl and droop if you have not provided enough water for your plant. Addressing any problems with your watering could help tackle the problem. This is a plant that will typically need watering weekly most of the year – but fortnightly should suffice in the winter months. If you’re ever unsure, simply place your finger 2-3cm into the growing medium and check for moisture – only water when this has dried out. Leaves may sometimes return to normal, but sometimes, you will need to look to new leaves to see whether these curl too. If they do not, this is a sign that you have adequately addressed the problem. “I always advise allowing Pilea to almost completely dry out,” shares Master Horticulturist Dan Ori. “You may notice stems going slightly limp or leaves losing lustre, this is the time to water if you have stuck your finger in the compost down to your knuckle and it is still dry. “Take the pot with drainage holes out of its decorative pot cover and water until soaked through in the kitchen sink, then allow it to drain for five minutes before returning it to its pot cover and spot in the house. “If it is struggling to soak up water, you can submerge it slowly above the pot level until bubbles stop escaping. You may need to use your hands to stop losing compost from floating out.” 2) Poor Drainage Even if you have not overwatered, you may see doming on the leaves due to waterlogging or poor drainage. You may have provided the right amount of water, but that water might not be able to drain away freely. The roots may be blocking drainage holes in the base of a pot, if the plant has become root bound, and it may need repotting. Remember that these are plants that require free-draining conditions, so always make sure these are met before looking for other solutions. 3) Poor Lighting Doming on leaves, with the centre pushing out towards a window or light source, can also be a sign of a lack of light. These plants thrive in a bright location, and while they do not want to be in direct sun during the hottest and brightest part of the day, they do like to have a reasonable amount of light. This type of domed curling is a sign of leaves reflexing to catch as much light as possible. Moving the plant to a brighter location could solve this issue. 4) Nutrient Deficiencies If, instead of curving outwards, the leaves curl the other way and are higher at the edges of the leaves than at the centre, this may be a sign of a lack of specific nutrients. Feed once a month with a weak, organic liquid plant feed, since over-fertilisation can also cause leaves to droop or curl, and repot into a new growing medium every 2-3 years. 5) Temperature Issues Another common issue that can cause leaves to curl or droop is fluctuations and swings in temperature. Temperatures that are consistently too high can cause cupping of the leaves, as can hot or cold draughts and extreme temperature fluctuations. However, temperatures that are too low (below 12°C) can also cause the leaves on your plant to show some sign of stress. Drooping, doming and cupping are all issues for which it can be challenging to find the precise cause, but looking at the environmental conditions and any elements of care where you may be going wrong is usually the best place to start.
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How To Grow Chinese Money Plant With Emily Cupit - 'A Fantastic Houseplant For Beginners'
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Common Varieties Ongoing Plant Care References Pilea peperomioides, also known by many other names including the ‘Chinese Money Plant’, is a houseplant with unusual lily-pad-like leaves. It can be somewhat costly to purchase one of these plants from a specialist plant nursery or online. Those who do purchase a plant, however, and those lucky enough to have a friend with a plant who can pass pups along, find it a rewarding and pretty easy houseplant to grow. Fortunately, have one plant and you can propagate many. These plants produce pups at the base that can easily be separated from the parent plant and grown on in their own containers. The ease of propagation and the way in which houseplant enthusiasts have passed these along has given Pilea peperomioides a number of its common names. Overview Botanical Name Pilea peperomioides Common Name(s) Chinese Money Plant Plant Type Perennial / Houseplant Native Area Southwest China Hardiness Rating H1C Foliage Evergreen Flowers Inconspicuous, tiny pale green flowers When To Plant All year round First brought to the UK at the beginning of the 20th Century, this plant from southwestern China has long been quietly popular among houseplant enthusiasts.1 Though it may surprise you, in the 1980s it was determined that this plant is a member of the nettle family – Urticaceae.2 However, it was not previously all that widely known until social media brought it to greater prominence early this century. Common Varieties The species itself has been given an Award of Garden Merit by the RHS. In recent years, a few named cultivars have emerged. Three notable named cultivars of this species are ‘Mojito’, ‘Sugar’ and ‘White Splash’. ‘Mojito’ ‘Mojito’ is a variegated variety which has pale green splashes on the usual smooth, fleshy green leaves. ‘Sugar’ is a beautiful varietal with white-speckled foliage and, as the name suggests, ‘White Splash’ has leaves that are splashed with white colouration. Ongoing Plant Care One of the reasons that this plant has been so popular with houseplant enthusiasts over the years is that although it looks quite unusual and exotic, it is actually a remarkably forgiving plant and is pretty easy to grow. “Pilea peperomioides is a fantastic houseplant for beginners or children,” shares Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly. “It looks exotic and feels like an achievement to grow, but will in fact tolerate less than favourable conditions rather well. “In some of my more tricky houseplant positions, it will hang in there where most others will abandon hope.” Light The Chinese money plant prefers a bright location, but one that is out of direct sunlight during the hottest and brightest part of the day. In winter, when growing indoors, it will do well in a bright room, though not in a south or west-facing window. Outdoors (where it can be placed in summer) it prefers a very sheltered, mild and partially shaded spot. The leaves will grow towards light, but turning your plant regularly will help to ensure that it does not end up with a lopsided appearance. You should also make sure that you wipe the dust off the leaves now and then to ensure that they can continue to receive the light they need. Humidity & Temperature Pilea peperomioides does best when it is grown in a moderately humid environment and is misted occasionally where the air is very dry. On the whole, however, misting won’t be essential most of the time in the UK, as the environment will be humid enough to satisfy the plant’s needs. it is important to keep it somewhere where temperatures do not fall below 12°C. This obviously means that your plant will need to be indoors in a heated space over the winter months, though it can potentially be placed outdoors in summer if you prefer not to keep it as a houseplant year-round. Watering This is a slightly succulent plant that likes well-drained conditions, so one of the most important things when caring for a Chinese money plant is to make sure that you provide the right amount of water. Only water when the top few centimetres of the soil have begun to dry out; making sure that any excess water can drain away freely. This plant can tolerate a lot but it cannot tolerate boggy, waterlogged conditions. Remember, you will need to water houseplants in winter far less frequently than in the summer months. So, reduce watering in response to the changing of the seasons. Soil Requirements I would recommend planting this species in a mix of rich peat-free, multipurpose compost or soil-based compost, with one-quarter perlite to help encourage drainage. Whichever mix you choose, remember that creating free-draining conditions really is the most important thing when growing this plant successfully. Fertilising For optimal plant growth, it is best to feed this houseplant once a month with a weak organic houseplant feed or a homemade alternative like dilute compost tea. Common Problems The most common problems for Pilea peperomioides arise from issues with watering. Both underwatering and overwatering can cause drooping, floppy foliage on these plants. Taking a look at the growing medium should soon reveal which is the cause. Sometimes, other environmental issues can cause problems too. For example, too little light can cause leaves to curl, whereas too much light can cause pale leaves, and in direct sun, leaves may get sunburned and develop brown spots. These plants can also suffer from scale insect infestation, which shows up, often, as brown lumps on the leaves. Wiping these away can prevent issues from affecting the plant’s vigour. Powdery mildew (a fungal issue) may also arise. This causes white patches on the foliage. Ensure good airflow and ventilation, and remove affected leaves. References 1. Pilea peperomioides. (n.d.). Kew Royal Botanic Gardens. Retrieved March 22, 2023, from https://powo.science.kew.org/taxon/urn:lsid:ipni.org:names:855664-1 2. Pilea peperomioides: Chinese Money Plant. (n.d.). Flowers of India. Retrieved March 22, 2023, from https://www.flowersofindia.net/catalog/slides/Chinese%20Money%20Plant.html
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These 45 Plants Flower In May - Here's What Flo Headlam's Growing In Her Garden
IN THIS GUIDE 1) Cornflower 2) Common Columbine 3) Amaryllis 4) Hollyhock 5) Mexican Fleabane 6) Meadow Clary 7) Bear’s Breech 8) Giant Onion 9) Garden Catmint 10) Chinese Dogwood 11) Lily ‘Star Gazer’ 12) Bluebell 13) Common Poppy 14) Large-Flowered Delphinium 15) White Waterlily 16) Flowering Grass 17) Shasta Daisy 18) Bearded Iris 19) New Zealand Satin Flower 20) Clematis ‘Apple Blossom’ 21) Bird Of Paradise 22) Garden Pansy 23) Chinese Wisteria 24) Pink Agapanthus 25) Wild Cherry 26) Sweet Pea 27) Common Yarrow 28) Jacob’s Ladder 29) Wood Avens 30) Yellow Corydalis 31) Common Solomon’s Seal 32) Arum Lily 33) Clematis ‘Lasurstern’ 34) Common Dog Violet 35) Purple Spiderwort 36) Common Lilac 37) Magnolia ‘Susan’ 38) Black Parsley 39) Blue Poppy 40) Mexican Mock Orange 41) Renard Geranium 42) Turban Lily 43) Narrow-Leaved Sundrops 44) Mediterranean Spurge 45) Rose ‘Canary Bird’ As the end of spring approaches, the chance of frost decreases and there are plenty of flowers that can finally bloom. “There is a wonderful freshness about the month of May in the garden,” shares Claudia de Yong, a Designer. “Everything appears new and presents us with a taste of what’s to come and I especially love all the fruit blossoms.” May is one of the best times of year for gardeners in the UK, as Garden Designer Flo Headlam shares: “At the moment there are some plants in my garden that are looking really well. “I’m growing a Deutzia pulchra and that is a bee magnet. I’ve got some Geum ‘Totally Tangerine’ that have been flowering for the past month and they are looking great. “My flag irises are also looking lovely right now. I’ve also got Spiraea japonica ‘Goldflame’ which is just stunning, with all the different pink, yellow and green shades that have appeared just before the flowers have come out. “My May garden is looking very fresh!” There are hundreds of other plants that will start to bloom, pollinators will be out in full force and the weather should allow for more time spent outdoors tending to and appreciating your garden. “Right now I’m growing a variety of flowers, vegetables and herbs,” shares Hannah Reid, a Professional Gardener. “The flowers are mainly edible including sunflowers, nasturtiums, calendula, marigolds and viola.” In this guide, we share fourty-five(!) of our favourite plants that are in bloom throughout the month of May. 1) Cornflower BOTANICAL NAME: Centaurea cyanus HARDINESS RATING: H6 PLANT TYPE: annual FLOWERS: blue FLOWERING SEASON(S): spring / summer SIZE: 0.5-1m in height, 0.1-0.5m spread Cornflowers are a popular garden flower and a great way to kick off this list. Bursting into a bright blue colour in May, cornflowers produce frilly flowers on the top of tall stems, that reach up to 1m in height, which tend to bloom until the first frosts in September. Plant your cornflowers in a position in full sun in wildflower displays or in your flower beds or borders. 2) Common Columbine BOTANICAL NAME: Aquilegia vulgaris HARDINESS RATING: H7 PLANT TYPE: perennial FLOWERS: blue and purple FLOWERING SEASON(S): spring / summer SIZE: 0.5-1m in height, 0.1-0.5m spread A fully-hardy perennial, Aquilegia vulgaris, also known as common columbine, is a low-maintenance plant that bears trumpet-shaped flowers in shades of blue and purple from late spring into summer. This plant looks great in cottage garden planting schemes and can also be used for underplanting larger flowering shrubs or trees. 3) Amaryllis BOTANICAL NAME: Hippeastrum HARDINESS RATING: H2 PLANT TYPE: perennial / bulb FLOWERS: varies FLOWERING SEASON(S): winter / spring SIZE: 0.1-0.5m in height, 0.1-0.5m spread Amaryllis is a bulbous perennial that bears beautiful flowers from winter that lasts until the end of May. Commonly grown as a houseplant here in the UK, these festive blooms that come in various shades can brighten up your home on the darker days of the year until the sun arrives. 4) Hollyhock BOTANICAL NAME: Alcea rosea HARDINESS RATING: H5 PLANT TYPE: biennial FLOWERS: yellow, white, red, purple and pink FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer SIZE: 1.5-2.5m in height, 0.5-1m spread With funnel-shaped flowers that grow on stems up to 2.5m tall, hollyhock is a wonderful addition to traditional cottage garden displays or for use in a mixed border. As biennials, individual plants will only bloom for a year or two, but I think the colour that they provide from May into late summer is worth it. They also self-seed fairly freely. 5) Mexican Fleabane BOTANICAL NAME: Erigeron karvinskianus HARDINESS RATING: H5 PLANT TYPE: perennial FLOWERS: pink, white and purple FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer SIZE: 0.1-0.5m in height, 0.5-1m spread Producing daisy-like flowers from as early as May, Mexican fleabane is a small, spreading perennial that is a great plant for ground cover and filling up the space in your garden beds. Not only that, but they will also provide a beautiful burst of pink, white and purple when they bloom. Grow Mexican fleabane in an exposed position in full sun. 6) Meadow Clary BOTANICAL NAME: Salvia pratensis HARDINESS RATING: H7 PLANT TYPE: perennial FLOWERS: white, blue and pink FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer SIZE: 0.5-1m in height, 0.1-0.5m spread With crinkled green leaves and unusually shaped flowers, Salvia pratensis, or meadow clary, is an easy-to-care-for perennial that produces blue or purple flowers from May onwards. Growing up to 1m tall, make sure meadow clary is positioned somewhere it will receive full sun and it will reward you with blooms all summer long. 7) Bear’s Breech BOTANICAL NAME: Acanthus mollis HARDINESS RATING: H6 PLANT TYPE: perennial FLOWERS: white and purple FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer SIZE: 1-1.5m in height, 1-1.5m spread A relatively unfussy plant, Acanthus mollis can be grown in most conditions and will look best in a mixed garden bed with other perennials. Its flowers are white and are concealed by purple bracts growing on erect racemes that can reach heights of up to 1.5m. 8) Giant Onion BOTANICAL NAME: Allium giganteum HARDINESS RATING: H5 PLANT TYPE: perennial / bulb FLOWERS: purple FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer SIZE: 1-1.5m in height, 0.1-0.5m spread Allium giganteum, a variety commonly referred to as the giant onion, produces a rounded cluster of tiny purple flowers atop tall stems from May until August that are beloved by bees and other pollinators. The giant onion can be grown in flower borders or beds and its flowers can be cut to be used for displays inside your home, or leave the seed-heads to keep their unusual forms in your borders. 9) Garden Catmint BOTANICAL NAME: Nepeta × faassenii HARDINESS RATING: H7 PLANT TYPE: perennial FLOWERS: blue FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer / autumn SIZE: 0.1-0.5m in height, 0.1-0.5m spread With flowers appearing from May that last well into autumn, garden catmint is a small, clump-forming perennial with a distinctive, pungent aroma. This small-growing plant will be a great addition to wildlife-friendly displays as it is a great plant for pollinators when in flower. It might also attract local felines so only place it in areas of your garden that you’re happy to be visited by cats. 10) Chinese Dogwood BOTANICAL NAME: Cornus kousa var. chinensis HARDINESS RATING: H6 PLANT TYPE: tree / shrub FLOWERS: cream FLOWERING SEASON(S): late spring / summer SIZE: 4-8m in height, 4-8m spread Chinese dogwood, either grown as a shrub or a tree, is a unique plant that has orange and red foliage in the autumn months. More importantly, creamy-white flowers appear in late spring and should stick around until summer. This may-flowering shrub will look great at the back of borders with its distinctive shapes and can even be used for garden hedging. 11) Lily ‘Star Gazer’ BOTANICAL NAME: Lilium ‘Star Gazer’ HARDINESS RATING: H6 PLANT TYPE: bulb FLOWERS: pink FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer SIZE: 1-1.5m in height, 0.1-0.5m spread Lots of lilies flower in May, but ‘Star Gazer’ showcases beautiful pink flowers, edged with white, that peel back to reveal brown spots in the middle of its petals. Overwintering pots in a greenhouse should bring forward flowering, to achieve May blooms. I think lilies look best in container displays, whether planted alone or as part of a lasagne bulb planting scheme. 12) Bluebell BOTANICAL NAME: Hyacinthoides non-scripta HARDINESS RATING: H6 PLANT TYPE: bulb / perennial FLOWERS: white and blue FLOWERING SEASON(S): spring SIZE: 0.1-0.5m in height, 0-0.1m spread Bluebells are popular in the UK as they are fully hardy and easy to grow and care for. Their beautiful blue flowers grow at the end of arching stems, creating the drooping effect that they are usually known for. Bluebells grow best in partial shade, making them great for planting underneath larger shrubs or in a shaded spot in your garden. 13) Common Poppy BOTANICAL NAME: Papaver rhoeas HARDINESS RATING: H7 PLANT TYPE: annual FLOWERS: red FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer SIZE: 0.5-1m in height, 0.1-0.5m spread Papaver rhoeas, the common poppy, is another flower that is favoured here in the UK. Grown as an annual, this wildflower will flower as early as May (though often you may need to wait until mid-June) and looks best in a meadow display. It will thrive and flower best if planted in a spot that receives full sun. 14) Large-Flowered Delphinium BOTANICAL NAME: Delphinium grandiflorum HARDINESS RATING: H5 PLANT TYPE: annual / perennial FLOWERS: blue, white and purple FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer SIZE: 0.1-0.5m in height, 0.1-0.5m spread Flowering from May until August, Delphinium grandiflorum is also a short-lived perennial suited to wildflower meadow planting. However, unlike the common poppy, this plant needs both full sun and a sheltered position. Make sure you meet these needs to ensure your delphinium starts flowering in May. 15) White Waterlily BOTANICAL NAME: Nymphaea alba HARDINESS RATING: H5 PLANT TYPE: aquatic FLOWERS: white FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer SIZE: 0-0.1m in height, 1-1.5m spread Perhaps the most unusual option on this list, the white waterlily produces beautiful open blooms with yellow stamen at the centre from May through to August. This aquatic plant should be grown in water that does not get disturbed, or in a pot with a waterlogged, loam-based growing medium. 16) Flowering Grass BOTANICAL NAME: Freesia laxa HARDINESS RATING: H3 PLANT TYPE: perennial FLOWERS: red FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer SIZE: 0.1-0.5m in height, 0-0.1m spread Freesia laxa, also known as flowering grass, is a frost-tender perennial that produces peachy-coloured blooms at the start of summer, sometimes as early as May. This small perennial prefers an acidic growing medium and might need some additional care over the winter months. 17) Shasta Daisy BOTANICAL NAME: Leucanthemum × superbum HARDINESS RATING: H5 PLANT TYPE: perennial FLOWERS: yellow and white FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer / autumn SIZE: 0.5-1m in height, 0.5-1m spread Leucanthemum × superbum, more commonly known as Shasta daisies, are perennials that are in bloom from May until the end of autumn. With white and yellow daisy-like flowers that grow on stems up to 1m high, these wildflowers and their long-lasting blooms are a great choice if you are after long-lasting blooms. Shasta daisies should be grown in a sheltered location and can look great in a flower bed or herbaceous border. 18) Bearded Iris BOTANICAL NAME: Iris germanica HARDINESS RATING: H6 PLANT TYPE: perennial FLOWERS: various FLOWERING SEASON(S): late spring / early summer SIZE: 0.5-1m in height, 0.1-0.5m spread With blooms that last until the start of June, the bearded iris produces frilly flowers that are often bicoloured. These gorgeous perennials prefer a growing medium and should be positioned somewhere where they will receive plenty of sun, including on their rhizomes. 19) New Zealand Satin Flower BOTANICAL NAME: Libertia chilensis HARDINESS RATING: H3 PLANT TYPE: perennial FLOWERS: white FLOWERING SEASON(S): spring / summer SIZE: 0.5-1m in height, 0.5-1m spread Producing clusters of white star-shaped flowers on woody stems at the end of spring, the New Zealand satin flower is a lovely perennial that is often used in gravel gardens. This frost-tender plant will need to be mulched over the winter months to protect it from the cold. 20) Clematis ‘Apple Blossom’ BOTANICAL NAME: Clematis ‘Apple Blossom’ HARDINESS RATING: H4 PLANT TYPE: shrub / climber FLOWERS: pink FLOWERING SEASON(S): spring / summer SIZE: 4-8m in height, 1.5-2.5m spread Clematis ‘Apple Blossom’ is a great choice for garden hedging and natural screening and can also work well in flower borders if you have the space for such a tall feature. This floriferous shrub bears pale pink blossoms from May onwards and can also be trained against a wall or trellis if you’re looking for a decorative addition to your garden. 21) Bird Of Paradise BOTANICAL NAME: Strelitzia reginae HARDINESS RATING: H1B PLANT TYPE: perennial / houseplant FLOWERS: orange and blue FLOWERING SEASON(S): winter / spring SIZE: 1-1.5m in height, 0.5-1m spread With stunning orange and blue flowers that resemble the shape of a bird’s head and beak, the bird of paradise plant is unlike any other. Its blooms appear from winter but can last until the end of May if the plant is cared for properly. Grow birds of paradise as houseplants or in a heated greenhouse where temperatures consistently remain above 10°C. 22) Garden Pansy BOTANICAL NAME: Viola × wittrockiana HARDINESS RATING: H6 PLANT TYPE: annual FLOWERS: purple, yellow and blue FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer SIZE: 0.1-0.5m in height, 0.1-0.5m spread Viola × wittrockiana, more commonly known as garden pansies, produce bicoloured flowers that come in various shades of yellow, blue and purple. These colourful flowers will complement and grow well with other May-flowering annuals on this list, such as poppies, to create a mixed annual display. 23) Chinese Wisteria BOTANICAL NAME: Wisteria sinensis HARDINESS RATING: H6 PLANT TYPE: shrub / climber FLOWERS: purple FLOWERING SEASON(S): spring / summer SIZE: 12m in height, 8m spread I love wisterias, and this species is no exception. Producing cascading purple flowers from May to August, this large shrub can grow 10-12m in height with two-thirds of the spread – more than enough to cover the outside of a home or garden wall. Grow your Chinese wisteria at the back of a garden border against a fence, wall or trellis for a floriferous backdrop like no other. 24) Pink Agapanthus BOTANICAL NAME: Tulbaghia fragrans HARDINESS RATING: H3 PLANT TYPE: perennial FLOWERS: purple FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer / autumn SIZE: 0.1-0.5m in height, 0.1-0.5m spread With star-shaped lilac flowers that provide a wonderful (distinct) aroma during flowering, pink agapanthus plants are a sweet addition to garden displays. As they are frost-tender plants, I’d recommend growing these dainty perennials in containers so they can be brought indoors during the colder months. Flowering starts in late May and can continue long into Autumn. 25) Wild Cherry BOTANICAL NAME: Prunus avium HARDINESS RATING: H6 PLANT TYPE: tree FLOWERS: white FLOWERING SEASON(S): spring SIZE: 12m in height, 8m spread A large tree, wild cherry bears clusters of white flowers in May that are followed by plump red cherries that can be harvested in the autumn months. Once planted, this deciduous tree is easy to care for as long as it receives plenty of sunshine throughout the day. However, bear in mind before planting that this tree can grow over 10 metres in height and its roots are fairly shallow, so if you don’t have the space, this is definitely not the plant for you. 26) Sweet Pea BOTANICAL NAME: Lathyrus odoratus HARDINESS RATING: H3 PLANT TYPE: annual / climber FLOWERS: purple and red FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer / autumn SIZE: 1.5-2.5m in height, 0.1-0.5m spread Frost-tender annuals, sweet pea plants produce beautifully scented flowers on tall spikes that can reach up to 2m in height. Available in various shades of purple and red, this voracious grower will enthusiastically climb vertical trellis or fencing. To increase your chances of getting flowers in May, consider an early variety such as ‘Painted Lady’ and sow in the autumn. 27) Common Yarrow BOTANICAL NAME: Achillea millefolium HARDINESS RATING: H7 PLANT TYPE: perennial FLOWERS: white, cream, yellow and pink FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer SIZE: 0.1-0.5m in height, 0.1-0.5m spread Achillea millefolium, or yarrow, is a fully hardy perennial that, when grown in full sun, will produce an abundance of bright yellow or pink flowers from as early as May right through to the end of August. It tolerates dry soil and is a magnet for insects. 28) Jacob’s Ladder BOTANICAL NAME: Polemonium caeruleum HARDINESS RATING: H7 PLANT TYPE: perennial FLOWERS: blue FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer SIZE: 0.5-1m in height, 0.1-0.5m spread With blue blooms that arrive in May, Jacob’s ladder is a fully-hardy perennial that is easy to care for once planted out. Growing up to 1m tall with half the spread, this bushy plant with cupped flowers will return year after year with minimal intervention. 29) Wood Avens BOTANICAL NAME: Geum urbanum HARDINESS RATING: H7 PLANT TYPE: perennial FLOWERS: yellow FLOWERING SEASON(S): spring / summer / autumn SIZE: 0.5-1m in height, 0.1-0.5m spread Wood avens produce lovely yellow flowers in the late spring until the first frosts. The long-lasting blooms are also great for wildlife. Grow wood avens with other low-maintenance wildflowers for natural displays. “I would caution against planting this plant unless you have the space for it,” shares Master Horticulturist Peter Lickorish. “It is a good wildflower for shade, but it self-seeds prolifically and can quickly take over mixed borders. “It’s also a very tricky plant to dig up and remove, thanks to the strength of its roots. Pick its position wisely.” 30) Yellow Corydalis BOTANICAL NAME: Corydalis lutea HARDINESS RATING: H5 PLANT TYPE: perennial FLOWERS: yellow FLOWERING SEASON(S): spring / summer SIZE: 0.1-0.5m in height, 0.1-0.5m spread Another yellow-flowering perennial, the creamy blooms from this corydalis plant can look right at home when planted in a rock or gravel garden. Corydalis lutea needs to be planted in a shaded site and will not flower well if grown in too much sun. It also goes under the name Fumaria. 31) Common Solomon’s Seal BOTANICAL NAME: Polygonatum multiflorum HARDINESS RATING: H7 PLANT TYPE: perennial FLOWERS: white and green FLOWERING SEASON(S): spring SIZE: 0.5-1m in height, 01.-0.5m spread Common Solomon’s seal is an unusual perennial that produces flowers in spring that last until the end of May, or sometimes even longer. The flowers are tubular and white with green tips, growing from long arching stems that reach up to 1m tall. With large, crinkled leaves, this plant will look great in a foliage display or in a flowering border that is in need of some green ground cover. 32) Arum Lily BOTANICAL NAME: Calla aethiopica HARDINESS RATING: H4 PLANT TYPE: perennial / aquatic FLOWERS: white and yellow FLOWERING SEASON(S): spring / summer SIZE: 0.5-1m in height, 0.1-0.5m spread With white spathes and yellow spadices that appear in late spring, this perennial can be grown in water or in a container full of a waterlogged clay or loam-based growing medium. Arum lilies need to be grown in a sheltered position and, if growing in a garden pond, has to be left somewhere where their roots are not disturbed. It is also widely sold under the name Zantedeschia aethiopica. 33) Clematis ‘Lasurstern’ BOTANICAL NAME: Clematis ‘Lasurstern’ HARDINESS RATING: H6 PLANT TYPE: climber FLOWERS: cream, purple and blue FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer SIZE: 1.5-2.5m in height, 0.5-1m spread Another purple flowering gem, C. ‘lasurstern’ is a climbing shrub that is an excellent choice for growing against a wall or trellis and can reach heights of up to 2.5m. Its star-shaped blooms appear from May and last well into the summer months. Like many clematis varieties, ‘Lasurstern’ is a relatively low-maintenance shrub once it is planted out in a suitable location. 34) Common Dog Violet BOTANICAL NAME: Viola riviniana HARDINESS RATING: H7 PLANT TYPE: perennial FLOWERS: purple FLOWERING SEASON(S): spring / summer SIZE: 0-0.1m in height, 0.1-0.5m spread Viola riviniana, or common dog violet, is a fully-hardy perennial with heart-shaped leaves and produces violet-coloured blooms from May onwards. With a preference for acidic soil, this versatile plant can be grown in full shade or full sun and is a great choice for filling in gaps in borders or beds. If it likes its spot, it will seed and spread. 35) Purple Spiderwort BOTANICAL NAME: Tradescantia pallida ‘Purpurea’ HARDINESS RATING: H3 PLANT TYPE: houseplant / perennial FLOWERS: pink FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer SIZE: 0.1-0.5m in height, 0.1-0.5m spread Purple spiderwort is best known for its – you guessed it – purple evergreen foliage that provides visual interest all year round. However, it also bears tiny, bright pink flowers from May until September which stand out against the dark leaves. Often grown as a houseplant, I’d recommend planting this spiderwort variety in a container so it can be grown outside in the summer, then moved inside during colder months for winter protection. 36) Common Lilac BOTANICAL NAME: Syringa vulgaris HARDINESS RATING: H6 PLANT TYPE: shrub FLOWERS: pink and blue FLOWERING SEASON(S): spring / summer SIZE: 4-8m in height, 4-8m spread With clusters of tiny star-shaped pink or blue blooms that grow at the end of drooping stems, lilac is a deciduous shrub that can grow up to 8m. This shrub is favoured in traditional cottage gardens, but will only grow to its best if it is planted in soil with an alkaline pH. 37) Magnolia ‘Susan’ BOTANICAL NAME: Magnolia ‘Susan’ HARDINESS RATING: H6 PLANT TYPE: tree / shrub FLOWERS: pink FLOWERING SEASON(S): spring SIZE: 2-4m in height, 2-4m spread An impressive tree, Magnolia ‘Susan’ produces deep pink flowers in April and May. It forms a distinctive shape, with large leaves and smooth, pale bark. 38) Black Parsley BOTANICAL NAME: Melanoselinum decipiens HARDINESS RATING: H3 PLANT TYPE: perennial FLOWERS: pink FLOWERING SEASON(S): spring / summer SIZE: 1.5-2.5m in height, 1-1.5m spread Black parsley is a May-flowering perennial that produces clusters of tiny pink flowers and would make a great addition to a more natural garden planting scheme. As a half-hardy perennial, I’d suggest keeping an eye on this plant over the winter months, and it definitely wouldn’t hurt to apply a thin layer of mulch before the first frosts kick in. 39) Blue Poppy BOTANICAL NAME: Meconopsis betonicifolia HARDINESS RATING: H4 PLANT TYPE: perennial FLOWERS: blue FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer SIZE: 1-1.5m in height, 0.1-0.5m spread This perennial is short-lived and is often treated as an annual here in the UK, but if you want lovely blue blooms from May into the summer months, few do this better than the blue poppy. Best grown in clay or loam soil with an acidic pH, this half-hardy plant grows best in partial shade in a sheltered location. It can be a challenge to get them to flower, but annual mulching with leaf mould can help. 40) Mexican Mock Orange BOTANICAL NAME: Philadelphus mexicanus HARDINESS RATING: H3 PLANT TYPE: shrub FLOWERS: white and cream FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer SIZE: 1.5-2.5m in height, 1.5-2.5m spread Philadelphus mexicanus, or Mexican mock orange, produces aromatic clusters of creamy-white flowers from woody stems in May that last into the summer. This bushy shrub would look great at the back of a garden bed and can even be used as a small hedge for dividing up your garden displays. 41) Renard Geranium BOTANICAL NAME: Geranium renardii HARDINESS RATING: H6 PLANT TYPE: perennial FLOWERS: white and purple FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer SIZE: 0.1-0.5m in height, 0.1-0.5m spread With white, star-shaped flowers that flaunt purple-coloured veins, the Renard geranium is a deciduous perennial that can bloom from May onwards. It grows to no more than 50cm in height and spread, making it a great choice for underplanting larger flowering shrubs and plants. 42) Turban Lily BOTANICAL NAME: Lilium pomponium HARDINESS RATING: H7 PLANT TYPE: perennial / bulb FLOWERS: orange and red FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer SIZE: 1-1.5m in height, 0.1-0.5m spread The turban lily is a unique bulbous perennial that produces downward-facing red flowers with petals that peel back to reveal orange stamen. This is a rare lily, as it is notoriously difficult to grow, but if you have the time and patience, these blooms are sure to reward if and when they finally appear. 43) Narrow-Leaved Sundrops BOTANICAL NAME: Oenothera fruticosa HARDINESS RATING: H5 PLANT TYPE: perennial FLOWERS: yellow FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer / autumn SIZE: 0.5-1m in height, 0.5-1m spread Producing beautiful, bright yellow blooms from as early as May until September, Oenothera fruticosa, also known as narrow-leaved sundrops are hardy perennials that are beloved by pollinators here in the UK. Sundrops need to be grown somewhere in full sun where they will be sheltered from any harsh winds. With less shelter, they tend to bloom later, so May flowers are not always achievable. 44) Mediterranean Spurge BOTANICAL NAME: EUPHORBIA CHARACIAS HARDINESS RATING: H4 PLANT TYPE: PERENNIAL FLOWERS: YELLOW / GREEN / RED FLOWERING SEASON(S): LATE SPRING SIZE: 1-1.5M HIGH, 1-1.5M SPREAD “Few perennials are as architectural as the Mediterranean spurge, with its blue-green leaves carried on elegant spikes throughout the year,” shares Peter. “Flowers start in mid-spring and continue into May, with a zingy yellow-green colour. “Red centres in the flowers can be picked up by planting red Camellias or peonies nearby, which will contrast delectably with the acid green of the spurge.” 45) Rose ‘Canary Bird’ BOTANICAL NAME: Rosa xanthina ‘Canary Bird’ HARDINESS RATING: H6 PLANT TYPE: shrub FLOWERS: orange and pink FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer / autumn SIZE: 1.5-2m in height, 1-3m spread To conclude this list, I’ve chosen a May-flowering classic – the rose. ‘Canary Bird’ is a large shrub rose, with creamy yellow flowers that can be relied upon to bloom in May, ahead of other roses. With a bushy habit, this rose can grow in many garden displays as long as it is planted in a sheltered location where it will get plenty of sun throughout the day.
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Exploring Snowdrop Varieties With Jane Rowlinson, Galanthus Grower At Morlas Plants
IN THIS GUIDE Nursery Varieties 1) G. nivalis 2) G. nivalis ‘Anglesey Abbey’ 3) G. ‘S. Arnott’ 4) G. nivalis ‘Alan’s Treat’ 5) G. nivalis f. pleniflorus ‘Pusey Green Tips’ 6) G. nivalis ‘Sandersii Group’ 7) G. nivalis ‘Scharlockii’ 8) G. nivalis ‘Virescens’ 9) G. nivalis ‘Green Tear’ 10) G. nivalis f. pleniflorus ‘Flore Pleno’ 11) G. nivalis f. pleniflorus ‘Bagpuize Virginia’ 12) G. ‘Atkinsii’ 13) G. elwesii 14) G. elwesii ‘Mary Biddulph’ 15) G. elwesii ‘Ransom’s Dwarf’ 16) G. elwesii (Hiemalis Group) 17) G. elwesii ‘Polar Bear’ References Snowdrops produce bashful little bells that emerge from the snowy ground by February and nod their three-petalled snowy white blooms from arching stems. A light, fresh fragrance tops off snowdrops’ delicate charms. Snowdrop bulbs are something of a collector’s item, particularly in the UK. Interestingly, the UK is only an adopted home to Galanthus plants, which were naturalised in the British Isles several centuries ago.1 “Snowdrops are one of those plants people love to collect,” shares Master Horticulturist Peter Lickorish. “Their intricate variations captivate many growers to continually seek out new varieties. Avid lovers of snowdrops may pay almost a couple of thousand pounds for a single bulb of a choice new cultivar. “I personally find they look more natural if just one variety is selected for each area of the garden, such as one cultivar for around the base of a tree, and a different one to drift through a border.” Nursery Varieties We asked Jane Rowlinson, specialist Galanthus grower from Morlas Plants, about some of her favourite snowdrop varieties – and she had lots to share with us. “My favourite yellow snowdrop is Galanthus ‘Primrose Warburg’, as it is very easy to grow and has a nice blueish tinge to the leaves. G. ‘Primrose Warburg’ “When grown in large swathes in a sunny spot it produces a stunning display. “Galanthus ‘Trumps’ is the best of the green-tipped cultivars. A very quick grower, it looks fabulous planted amongst red-stemmed cornus plants. “The best double for me has to be G. ‘White Swan’, a tall elegant growing snowdrop that is easy to grow and was the first rare snowdrop I had in my collection. G. ‘Trumps’ “Although the named cultivars are nice to grow, you still cannot beat G. nivalis for making white carpets in a garden or woodland setting. “Inexpensive to buy and easy to grow, every garden in the UK should have at least one clump of them to help the bees and to bring a spot of cheer during the winter months.” Peter also shares his favourite varieties to grow: “If you just cannot wait for snow until you see snowdrops, G. reginae-olgae is an autumn flowering cultivar, which can start blooming as early as September. “Some cultivars, such as G. ‘S. Arnott’ make good cut flowers, where their honey-like fragrance can be enjoyed for a long period in a small vase.” Below, I share seventeen of my favourite snowdrop varieties for you to hunt down and grow. All of the varieties listed below are H5 hardy (suited for all areas of Britain) and can be grown in an exposed area with any soil type. 1) G. nivalis COMMON NAME(S): common snowdrop FLOWERING SEASON(S): winter SUNLIGHT: partial shade SIZE: 0.1-0.5m in height, 0-0.1m spread As it happens, the species plant is one of the least showy in its genus, growing to around 12-15cm tall with drooping flowers that are around 2.5cm in length. What’s more, the inner tepals have green markings at the tip. The common snowdrop is one of the first snowdrops to appear and can bloom from as early as January. This plant has received the RHS Award of Garden Merit. 2) G. nivalis ‘Anglesey Abbey’ COMMON NAME(S): snowdrop ‘anglesey abbey’ FLOWERING SEASON(S): winter SUNLIGHT: partial shade SIZE: 0.1-0.5m in height, 0-0.1m spread Perhaps no other variety is as likely to produce a pure-white flower as ‘Angelsey Abbey’. This cultivar is similar to the species in every respect, except that on some plants, all flowers may be entirely white, wholly skipping the green markings. “Where this occurs, and the inner tepals almost match the outer length, this is known as a poculiform snowdrop,” explains Peter. 3) G. ‘S. Arnott’ COMMON NAME(S): snowdrop ‘s. arnott’ FLOWERING SEASON(S): winter SUNLIGHT: partial shade SIZE: 0.1-0.5m in height, 0-0.1m spread Very similar in many respects to the mother plant, ’S. Arnott’ features flowers that eventually open out almost fully, looking quite like tiny propellors aimed downward. The inner tepals have a mark like an inverted ‘V’, which often comes in a brilliant shade of green. This variety is another recipient of the RHS Award of Garden Merit. 4) G. nivalis ‘Alan’s Treat’ COMMON NAME(S): snowdrop ‘alan’s treat’ FLOWERING SEASON(S): winter / spring SUNLIGHT: full sun / partial shade SIZE: 0.1-0.5m in height, 0.1-0.5m spread Producing more of a half-open than half-closed look, ‘Alan’s Treat’ has pale green, smudge-like markings on the outer sides of the tepals and very prominently so on the outer ones. It has unusually long inner tepals and can rise up to 15cm tall. These delightful flowers emerge in February. It too can have a poculiform flower. 5) G. nivalis f. pleniflorus ‘Pusey Green Tips’ COMMON NAME(S): snowdrop ‘pusey green tips’ FLOWERING SEASON(S): winter SUNLIGHT: full sun / partial shade SIZE: 0-0.1m in height, 0-0.1m spread Among the most diminutive of snowdrops, ‘Pusey Green Tips’ reaches no more than 10cm in height. Much like ‘Alan’s Treat’, it too exhibits that half-open look. Its flowers have a pronounced, virtually vertical droop, and all 6 tepals have fairly bright green spot-like markings near the tips. 6) G. nivalis ‘Sandersii Group’ COMMON NAME(S): snowdrop sandersii group FLOWERING SEASON(S): winter SUNLIGHT: full sun / partial shade SIZE: 0.1-0.5m in height, 0.1-0.5m spread Also dubbed yellow snowdrops, these flowers are often tinged yellow at the point where the stem meets the flower. They also have distinct yellow markings near the tips of the inner tepals. Since this variety opens up a little more than usual, the yellow-marked inner tepals are often visible. It can reach 15cm tall and is one of the early bloomers. 7) G. nivalis ‘Scharlockii’ COMMON NAME(S): snowdrop scharlockii group FLOWERING SEASON(S): winter SUNLIGHT: partial shade SIZE: 0.1-0.5m in height, 0-0.1m spread This cultivar has a special feature because the pendent bells of ‘Scharlockii’ droop from a fairly long split spathe, meaning the flowers nod from in-between two green horns. The outer tepals have highly variable markings, from delicate shading in pale green to an inverted ‘V’ in mid-green. The inner ones, however, bear consistent green marks at the tip. 8) G. nivalis ‘Virescens’ COMMON NAME(S): snowdrop ‘virescens’ FLOWERING SEASON(S): winter SUNLIGHT: full sun / partial shade SIZE: 0.1-0.5m in height, 0.1-0.5m spread A cultivar that is fairly standard in respect to its size, season and floral form, ‘Virescens’ features the most unusual and delightful floral colourings. Each outer tepal carries a long and thick prominent mark quite like a brushstroke in shaded pastel green while the inner tepals are solid deep green with a narrow white border. 9) G. nivalis ‘Green Tear’ COMMON NAME(S): snowdrop ‘green tear’ FLOWERING SEASON(S): winter / spring SUNLIGHT: full sun / partial shade SIZE: 0.1-0.5m in height, 0.1-0.5m spread ‘Green Tear’ has its own claim to fame. First, though, this cultivar properly welcomes spring as it does not precede the season but rather ushers it in. The outer tepals have a streaky smudge in pale green while the inner ones bear more solid, deep green marks that may cover nearly the entire surface. What makes this variety special is that quite often two bells will dangle from each stalk. 10) G. nivalis f. pleniflorus ‘Flore Pleno’ COMMON NAME(S): double snowdrop FLOWERING SEASON(S): winter SUNLIGHT: full sun / partial shade SIZE: 0-0.1m in height, 0-0.1m spread A popular and sought-after double-form variety, ‘Flore Pleno’ is distinguished by several sets of inner tepals that look rather like frilly skirts. These ‘skirts’ are decorated with streaky smudges of green, sometimes further adorned with yellow or orange markings. Though the dimensions of the plant and flower are similar to other cultivars, it is the form and colour of the flower, an especially fragrant one, that makes this cultivar so special. This variety has received the RHS Award of Garden Merit. 11) G. nivalis f. pleniflorus ‘Bagpuize Virginia’ COMMON NAME(S): double snowdrop ‘bagpuize virginia’ FLOWERING SEASON(S): winter SUNLIGHT: full sun / partial shade SIZE: 0.1-0.5m in height, 0.1-0.5m spread More difficult to source than ‘Flore Pleno’ is another double form – ‘Bagpuize Virginia’. This big variety can reach 20cm tall. The inner tepals have double layers with notches and are marked with a bright green inverted ‘V’, while the outer ones are more discreetly marked with green spots. 12) G. ‘Atkinsii’ COMMON NAME(S): snowdrop ‘atkinsii’ FLOWERING SEASON(S): winter SUNLIGHT: partial shade SIZE: 0.1-0.5m in height, 0-0.1m spread Breaking the mould for snowdrops, ‘Atkinsii’ can reach a commanding height of up to 25cm! Matching its height, its flowers’ tepals have a plumper appearance than those of other cultivars. The outer tepals are pure white; the inner ones display a conspicuous inverted green heart. Unsurprisingly, this is another recipient of the RHS Award of Garden Merit. 13) G. elwesii COMMON NAME(S): greater snowdrop FLOWERING SEASON(S): winter SUNLIGHT: partial shade SIZE: 0.1-0.5m in height, 0-0.1m spread The informal name for species type is the greater snowdrop, as this plant can grow between 25-30cm tall. It features flowers that are just a little bigger than other snowdrops that also have green markings like an inverted ‘U’ at its petals’ tips and at the bases. Flowers often settle at a perfect half-closed, half-open form. It is among the earliest to come into bloom and varieties of this have received the RHS Award of Garden Merit. 14) G. elwesii ‘Mary Biddulph’ COMMON NAME(S): greater snowdrop ‘mary biddulph’ FLOWERING SEASON(S): winter SUNLIGHT: partial shade SIZE: 0.1-0.5m in height, 0-0.1m spread ‘Mary Biddulph’ is similar to the species with a couple of special twists. The half-open pendent flowers have a shield over them in the form of a prominent curved bract. In addition to this, the inner tepals have conspicuous green smudges that are often connected by narrow lines, as if they have been etched on. 15) G. elwesii ‘Ransom’s Dwarf’ COMMON NAME(S): greater snowdrop ‘ransom’s dwarf’ FLOWERING SEASON(S): winter SUNLIGHT: full sun / partial shade SIZE: 0.1-0.5m in height, 0-0.1m spread At only about 15cm tall, ‘Ransom’s Dwarf’ is a short variety that still produces fairly large flowers. With blooms that look a little too big for the plant, the overall effect is cute and humorous. This cultivar’s inner tepals are prominently blotched in green at the bases and tips. 16) G. elwesii (Hiemalis Group) COMMON NAME(S): greater snowdrop hiemalis group FLOWERING SEASON(S): autumn / winter SUNLIGHT: full sun / partial shade SIZE: 0.1-0.5m in height, 0.1-0.5m spread Very special in yet another way, the ‘Hiemalis Group’ features standard snowdrop flowers with green blotches at the tips of the inner tepals. What distinguishes this group of cultivars is that they are among the earliest to bloom and can produce flowers as early as November, ending its blooming season before the arrival of spring. 17) G. elwesii ‘Polar Bear’ COMMON NAME(S): greater snowdrop ‘polar bear’ FLOWERING SEASON(S): spring SUNLIGHT: full sun / partial shade SIZE: 0.1-0.5m in height, 0.1-0.5m spread Not easy to find, ‘Polar Bear’ is actually a double play in rare attributes among Snowdrops. Firstly, its flowers face upward, and secondly, the outer tepals are wide open. As a result, its flowers look like little propellors, except they are directed upwards. The inner tepals are virtually half green, which is of a deep shade. References 1. Snowdrop. (n.d.). PlantAtlas. Retrieved March 16, 2023, from https://plantatlas2020.org/atlas/2cd4p9h.ymh
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