Growing
Easy-To-Follow Fertilising Guidelines For Apple Trees That Will Boost Growth
IN THIS GUIDE General Feeding Guidelines How To Feed Apple Trees Fertilising apple trees can be difficult as it requires a consideration of a lot of different variables to get it right. As for the kind of fertiliser, granular, powder, liquid, spikes or pellets can all be used, which might add to the confusion! Though a one-size-fits-all regimen for feeding apple trees is not realistic, this gardening task can certainly be simplified. In this guide, I’ll offer general guidelines and some specifics that are a happy medium between various alternatives which should help make this process simpler for you. General Feeding Guidelines Here are some important guidelines when fertilising your apple tree: The younger the tree and the narrower the trunk, the less it should be fertilised. Do not feed saplings for up to 2 years and only start feeding when the tree is a minimum of 3 years old. The proportional increase of fertiliser should be capped at seven years which is when an apple tree reaches full maturity. Fertilise once just before the tree comes into bud. Exactly when this occurs will depend on your tree’s flowering group and your location in the UK. As a general rule, use a high-potash formula, a nitrogenous formula, or both as appropriate. Avoid using pure nitrogen for annual fertilising. Well-rotted chicken manure may be used to improve the soil or as an alternative to nitrogenous fertiliser. For culinary or cooking apple variety trees, you may apply 30-40% more fertiliser than for dessert or eating varieties. How To Feed Apple Trees I’d suggest that you do not fertilise an apple tree during its first two years, but you can still mulch it, as Tom Adams, Owner of Tom Adams Fruit Tree Nursery, shares: “Make sure your young tree is staked, well mulched and protected from anything that might want to eat the bark, such as rabbits or sheep. “Having good healthy soil is one of the most important factors when caring for apple trees.” Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly explains when you need to mulch your apple trees: “Most loam or clay soils will have sufficient nutrients in the soil to grow apple trees; think of mulching as providing a healthy meal and fertiliser – a bit like a power drink! “Mulching early in the season when a lot of energy is being expended by the tree can provide a boost but don’t overdo it as this can be harmful to overall soil health. “Fungi, microbes and bacteria populations that keep the nutrient cycle turning – think of annual mulching as feeding the soil, which in turn will feed your apple.” Apple trees do best in moderately fertile, loamy soil that is not overly rich. You may also work in some bonemeal into the soil, but only sprinkle a pinch or two outside the drip line at least 40cm from the trunk. This one-time application will enhance the soil’s phosphorous levels. This type of very limited application of bonemeal early in the tree’s lifecycle will promote healthy rooting and, resultantly, strong roots in the mature tree. However, be aware that over-application or repeated application of bonemeal and other strong fertilisers can cause root burn or fertiliser burn, which can even prove fatal for young or diseased trees. From the tree’s third year onwards, fertilise it on the cusp of winter and spring and then again in early summer. “Make sure to put some good compost on top of your tree, mulch it well with hops or well-rotted woodchip, and give it a sprinkle of nutrients if you can,” recommends Julie Bellemann, one of the co-op members from the not-for-profit plant nursery Sheffield Fruit Trees. “Seaweed powder, rock dust and mycorrhizal all work really well. “Taking your time and planting it well with appropriate mulch and fertiliser will make sure your apple tree has the best possible chance of surviving and giving bigger and healthier yields.” When planting an apple tree, make a shallow, narrow trench around the tree about 10cm outside the drip line. This can easily be done using a narrow-blade gardening hoe if the tree is growing on bare ground. Making a round trench is critical if the tree is growing in grass. In this case, a shovel will be needed as it might be necessary to dig up the grass. Work the fertiliser into the soil and give the ground a good soaking or prepare a solution and then pour it around the tree, after which it should be watered in.
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8 Reasons Your Apple Tree Isn't Fruiting According To A Permaculture Gardener
IN THIS GUIDE 1) Immature Tree 2) Extreme Cold 3) Bird Or Insect Damage 4) A Lack Of Pollination Partners 5) A Lack Of Insect Pollinators 6) Biennial Cropping 7) Incorrect Pruning 8) Environmental Issues References Apple trees are arguably the easiest fruit tree to grow in the UK. They are relatively low maintenance and tend to require little ongoing care once established. However, as always in a garden, there are things that can go wrong, with problems that are within our control, and some that are not. If an apple tree fails to fruit, there are a number of potential causes, including: Too young to fruit. Damage to blossoms due to cold weather. Bird or insect damage. Lack of pollination partners. Poor weather. Biennial cropping. The tree was pruned incorrectly. Environmental problems or unsuitable growing conditions. In my forest garden where I have 6 apple trees growing, I have only encountered the second of these issues once on one of my trees. One year, we had a sudden cold spell in spring with hard frost that damaged the blossoms and meant a year of non-fruiting. In that particular instance, the reason for non-fruiting was very clear, but the cause of an apple tree failing to fruit is not always quite as easy to discern. We’ll take a look at each of the reasons listed above, to help you work out what might be the problem with a non-productive tree. 1) Immature Tree The first thing to consider if an apple tree has not fruited is that it may simply still be too young to do so. It will typically take a few years before apple trees begin fruiting, though precisely how long this takes will depend on the variety and rootstock chosen, as well as a range of other factors. If a young apple tree is not fruiting, you may simply have to wait a little longer until it is mature enough to do so. 2) Extreme Cold As mentioned above, this is the only issue I have encountered in my own forest garden. A sudden and unexpected late cold snap in the spring can damage the blossoms and prevent them from being pollinated and setting fruit. Unfortunately, if you are not forewarned, then there is little you can do to prevent this. However, if you get a forecast, you might be able to protect the blossoms by covering them. Damage to blossoms by the cold is more common with earlier flowering fruit trees, but it can occasionally occur in some areas with apple trees too. 3) Bird Or Insect Damage Blossoms on an apple tree can also potentially be damaged by birds or insects early in their growth, sometimes while in the bud before the flowers even open. One way to forestall this issue is to make sure that there are plenty of food sources (natural and at feeders) for the birds in your garden in late winter and early spring, as birds will only tend to go for buds when there are no other food sources available. 4) A Lack Of Pollination Partners Even when blossoms form as they should, issues with pollination can also lead to the non-fruiting of an apple tree. Pollination is a very important thing to consider when choosing an apple tree for your garden. Some apple trees are self-fertile and will fruit even without another apple tree close by, but many apple trees will only fruit with another apple tree in the right pollination group close by. A few need more than one other apple tree to fruit well. If you have planted an apple tree that is not self-fertile on its own, you may need to place another apple tree in your garden before fruits will form successfully. “Apple trees often need a tree from the same or adjacent pollinating group to ensure they are in flower at the same time or overlap,” explains Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly. “I have had an issue with a triploid cultivar ‘Blenheim Orange’, which is in pollination group 3. “I have one other apple from group 2 but this has not been sufficient to pollinate the triploid cultivar, which often needs 2 other cultivars in order to be pollinated and set fruit. “I have added 2 new cultivars in groups 3 and 4 this year, so hopefully I’ll be enjoying a crop this year!” 5) A Lack Of Insect Pollinators Another issue that can lead to poor or non-existent pollination is a paucity of insect pollinators in your garden during the blossoming period. It is vitally important to attract pollinators to your garden to obtain the best yields. You can help by providing pollinators with nectar during the period immediately prior to the time when your apple tree blooms. However, poor weather during the pollination period can restrict pollinator activity and lead to a poor harvest – or even no harvest at all. Placing an apple tree in a suitably protected and sheltered spot can ensure pollinators can do their work even when the weather is wild. 6) Biennial Cropping Biennial bearing is a problem that can arise with apple trees which means that they can produce abundant fruit one year and little to none the next. Some varieties are more likely to have this problem than others. If apple trees do not fruit for one year, they have resources that go into producing a large number of blossoms the following year. Then, the abundant yield reduces the vigour of the tree and leads to lower amounts of blossom and fruit the following year. If you do nothing to redress this problem, this pattern can continue over multiple years. When I had a non-bearing year due to spring frost on one of my apple trees, I was able to prevent overly abundant cropping by rubbing off fruit buds the following year in early spring. This brought the tree back into regular production. 7) Incorrect Pruning Pruning incorrectly or failing to prune an apple tree can also lead to a lack of fruit production. It is important to make sure that you understand regular maintenance pruning and any other specific pruning required for the form and variety of apple trees you have chosen.1 Renovation pruning can be carried out on neglected apple trees and this can often bring them back into full and healthy production.2 8) Environmental Issues Remember, in order to fruit, an apple tree requires sunlight, water and nutrients in sufficient quantities. A lack of light, drought in spring or early summer and poor, infertile soil can all lead to a lack of fruiting. So, it is important to look at environmental conditions and fertility to make sure an apple tree fruits well over the years. References 1. Apples and pears: winter pruning. (n.d.). Royal Horticultural Society. Retrieved April 11, 2023, from https://www.rhs.org.uk/fruit/apples/winter-pruning 2. Apples and pears: renovation pruning. (n.d.). Royal Horticultural Society. Retrieved April 11, 2023, from https://www.rhs.org.uk/fruit/apples/renovating-old-trees
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Why Experts Say Not To Use Pesticides On An Apple Tree Woolly Aphid Infestation
IN THIS GUIDE What Is Woolly Aphid? Is It A Problem? Woolly Aphid Solutions Why Not To Use Pesticides References If you see a white fluffy substance on your apple tree, you may at first suspect a fungal problem. However, what can look like a whitish mould or fungus is more likely to be a sign that your apple tree has a woolly aphid infestation. A white waxy fluff or fur-like substance on apple trees is excreted by small sap-sucking insects known as woolly aphids. They excrete this substance that gives them their characteristic woolly or furry coating in the spring and summer months, when they begin sucking sap from beneath the bark. What Is Woolly Aphid? Woolly aphid is the name given to the insect Eriosoma lanigerum.1 It is a sap-sucking bug found only on apple, cotoneaster and pyracantha trees and shrubs. On other plants, a white waxy deposit can be a sign of scale insects, other aphids, or mealybugs in greenhouses or polytunnels, but when white fluff is seen on an apple tree, the woolly aphid is the most likely culprit. Woolly aphids spend the winter on apple trees as nymphs that hide in fissures in the bark or in the crevices of branches. In spring, these blackish-brown sap-suckers become active again, concentrating their efforts where the bark is thinner and around old pruning cuts. They start to suck sap from the tree and begin to excrete the woolly white substance. By the middle of summer, the population of these insects will often have increased and the insects will often spread onto new, younger shoots. Soft lumpy growths will often develop in the bark of these shoots as the woolly aphids feed, due to chemicals excreted by these insects into the bark. In mid-summer, winged forms of these aphids will then develop, and these will then fly off to search for new host plants to colonise. Is It A Problem? The first thing to understand as an organic gardener is that woolly aphid should not be viewed as a problem per se, but rather as an integral part of the garden ecosystem. Like other aphids, these creatures are a food source for a range of wildlife and even pest species can be crucial in maintaining natural biodiversity within a space. Get rid of aphids altogether and you will also get rid of the diverse life that preys upon them. Reduced biodiversity can reduce the resilience of the system as a whole, and losing natural predators means that, ironically, getting rid of aphids altogether could lead to a boom in their numbers, creating a more serious problem in future, as Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly shares: “During my career, there has been a shift from viewing what were considered pests towards viewing them as part of the garden ecosystem. “It does take some restraint to avoid wanting to remove ‘pests’ but they are part of the food chain. “If you like the more charismatic wildlife in your garden, such as birds, then you need to build the food chain and expand the relationships in it rather than breaking the chains and reducing them.” However, the reason that woolly aphids are considered a pest is that as they feed and create lumps and bumps on the bark, they leave these areas of the tree more vulnerable to more serious issues. The lumps created in the bark by the chemicals that these insects excrete can split once the frosty weather of winter arrives, creating points of entry for disease. These wounds can unfortunately allow in the fungal disease known as apple canker, which can create dead sunken areas and eventually kill off whole branches of a tree. So, though the aphids themselves will not threaten the tree greatly, their actions can allow in diseases that pose far more of a threat. Woolly Aphid Solutions A serious infestation of woolly aphids is, of course, not desirable, because of the damage they do to the bark and the potential for disease to gain access through these points. However, as mentioned above, this does not mean that we should aim to eradicate them entirely. Keep Population In Check Where we can, we should aim to accommodate pest species in our gardens and value them for their contribution to the ecosystem as a whole. You can certainly have both apple trees and woolly aphids in your garden. The key is, rather than trying to get rid of woolly aphids, to embrace them in smaller numbers and take steps to try to keep their population in check. The main way in which you will do so in an organic garden is by encouraging healthy populations of the creatures that like to eat aphids and that prey on them to keep their numbers down. Encourage Natural Predation To control aphids in your space, creatures like ladybirds, lacewings and hoverfly larvae will act as natural predators as they love to feast on aphids. Creating an environment for these creatures to thrive includes avoiding the use of pesticides and herbicides and planting to attract them. Leaving wilder and less managed areas of space in your garden is always a great idea if you want as broad a range of different beneficial species as possible. Creating guilds of beneficial companion plants around a fruit tree can aid the fruit tree in numerous ways and increase the yield that you are able to achieve. One type of companion plant to include within a fruit tree guild are plants that help to bring in insects to the space to aid in pollination and pest control. Research has also shown that earwigs can also help to reduce aphids on fruit trees, and they won’t do fruit trees like apple trees any harm.2 You can increase the number of earwigs in your garden or orchard by providing a habitat for them. Create brush piles and provide shelters like flower pots with hay stuffed loosely inside to do this. Scrub Small Trees If you spot an infestation on a small tree, it is possible to further control the population by simply scrubbing the areas where the colonies are seen using a brush with stiff bristles. If you decide to take this step, it is best to do so in spring or early in the summer before the population booms. Keep in mind that you should tolerate some aphids as part of the ecosystem in a healthy and organic garden, so don’t go too crazy with this method. Why Not To Use Pesticides Pesticide sprays, even organic ones, are unlikely to be effective on taller trees unless you can reach the entirety of the plant, and winter washes don’t control these aphids because they overwinter in fissures where the wash will not easily reach. Remember, pesticides can also cause harm to beneficial wildlife, and synthetic pesticides are never, ever to be used in an organic garden. Woolly aphids rarely become a major problem for apple trees, so as long as you control their population by boosting biodiversity and welcoming a range of wildlife where you live, you should be able to tolerate these insects and simply let them get on with their lives. References 1. Lordan, J., Alegre, S., Gatius, F., Sarasúa, M. J., & Alins, G. (2015). Woolly apple aphid Eriosoma lanigerum Hausmann ecology and its relationship with climatic variables and natural enemies in Mediterranean areas. Bulletin of Entomological Research, 105(1), 60–69. https://doi.org/10.1017/s0007485314000753 2. Earwigs Management Guidelines. (n.d.). UCIPM. Retrieved March 9, 2023, from https://ipm.ucanr.edu/PMG/PESTNOTES/pn74102.html
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You Can Grow Apple Trees In Pots - But The Rootstock, Shape And Form Are Important
IN THIS GUIDE Can You Grow Apple Trees In Containers? Suitable Containers Container Compost Potting Up Potted Apple Tree Care References Apples are a great choice if you want to grow a fruit tree in your garden and they are the easiest fruit tree for beginners in the UK to grow. Even with a very small garden, you might be able to grow an apple tree where you live, as long as you choose the right variety. Apple trees are certainly easier to grow in the ground and will require far less care and attention when grown in this way. If you do have space to grow an apple tree in the ground, then I would recommend that you choose a spot carefully so that the tree you choose won’t take up too much space. But, of course, not everyone will be able to plant a tree in the ground in their garden and might be wondering if they can grow an apple tree in a pot or container. Can You Grow Apple Trees In Containers? The answer is yes, but there are certain caveats and you will need to carefully consider the apple tree variety that you choose, as some will be far easier to grow in pots than others. There are several things you will also need to think about before growing an apple tree in a container, including: Rootstock The first thing to think about if you would like to grow an apple tree in a container is the rootstock. Apple trees that you can buy, either as pot-grown patio trees or bare-root specimens, are grafted. They are made up of a rootstock (the bottom portion), which dictates the size and vigour of the tree, and the scion (the upper part), which determines the size, number and taste of the fruits. The best choice when growing an apple tree in a container is a dwarfing rootstock, as this restricts the size to which the tree will grow and makes it easier to grow in a container. M27 is the rootstock most commonly used for patio apple trees to be grown in containers in the UK. When grown on this rootstock, apple trees can be restricted to grow no more than around 1.5m in height. M9 and M26 rootstocks are also often used, producing trees that can grow to around 2.5m or so in height. Shape & Form Another thing to think about when choosing an apple tree to grow in a container is whether you will purchase one that is already trained into a particular form, such as a columnar, cordon or fan. Shaping and training can restrict the size and vigour of an apple tree and can be important when growing an apple tree in a container. You can purchase pre-trained specimens or buy young trees and undertake training and pruning yourself. Duo Fruit Trees When choosing apple trees to grow in containers or in small spaces in general, you can also purchase plants which have more than one variety of fruit grafted onto one rootstock. One option to consider if you are growing an apple tree in a container is a duo fruit tree that bears both eating and cooking apples. This is an interesting space-saving idea to contemplate before you decide upon a particular individual cultivar. “Apples with two or more cultivars grafted onto a rootstock will normally be from compatible pollination groups,” shares Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly. “This means that the flowers will emerge at similar times to enable pollination. “Where single cultivar trees are being selected, make sure to buy them from compatible pollination groups.”1 Suitable Containers When choosing a container for a patio tree of any kind, including apple trees, it is important to choose one that is as large and sturdy as possible. It must be large, strong and heavy enough not only to accommodate the root system of the tree you have chosen but also to avoid issues with toppling or blowing over as the tree grows. The container you choose should have good drainage at the base, to allow excess water to drain away freely. Apple trees need moderately free-draining conditions, though it will also be important to provide sufficient moisture throughout the year. Container Compost Since patio apple trees will remain in a container over multiple years, it is important to choose the right growing medium to ensure that fertile conditions can be maintained. For an apple tree grown in a pot, a loam or soil-based compost mix is ideal. You can choose a peat-free multipurpose compost with added John Innes, or create your own mix with soil or loam, homemade compost and leaf mould. Potting Up Whether you have purchased a bare-root or a pot-grown apple tree, it is important to pot up your tree as soon as possible into the container in which it will continue to grow. Place the apple tree into the container on top of a small amount of your growing medium. Make sure that it is upright and that the tree is planted to the soil mark or the depth that it was at in its previous pot. Then, fill in more of the growing medium around the sides of the root ball. Once you have planted the apple tree in its container, water it well, then mulch around the top of the container with organic matter. This helps to retain moisture and add fertility over time, as long as you make sure that the mulch does not mound up around the trunk, as this can cause rotting in wet conditions. Typically, you can increase the yield and performance of an apple tree by creating guilds of beneficial companion plants around its base. When growing in a large container, you might create a small guild within the same container. However, it is generally easier to plant certain companions in other pots close by. You might consider planting a pot with spring bulbs to entice early pollinators to the area, or you might also grow alliums and aromatic herbs for pest control and beneficial wildlife attraction nearby. Potted Apple Tree Care As mentioned above, caring for apple trees in containers will take a little more work, time and attention than growing an apple tree in the ground, but it is still not too daunting a process, as long as you remember these basic elements of care. Place your container in a suitable spot. Sweeter dessert apples or eating apples tend to require a position in full sun, where fruits will develop and ripen most successfully, whilst crab apples and tarter cooking apples can often cope with dappled or partial shade. Make sure that you water well and consistently during the spring and summer, paying particular attention to hydration when the weather is warm and dry. Remember, any plants growing in a pot will typically need watering more frequently than plants growing in the ground. In certain areas and with specific varieties, you may need to protect the tree blossom against a late frost with some form of cover, such as the use of horticultural fleece. Feed your apple tree by replenishing the mulch on the top of your container each year in spring and, if the growth seems poor, add organic fertiliser. Repot your tree with new compost every 2-3 years to ensure that the fertility remains sufficient for its needs. Take good care of an apple tree in a container and it can provide you with fairly small but worthwhile apple harvests for a number of years to come. References 1. Flowering times of apples. (n.d.). RHS Pollination Groups. Retrieved April 11, 2023, from https://www.rhs.org.uk/advice/pdfs/applepollinationgroups.pdf
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Top Reasons For Curled Leaves On Apple Trees, According To A Qualified Arboriculturist
IN THIS GUIDE 1) Underwatering 2) Extremities In Temperature 3) Nutrient Deficiencies 4) Pests 5) Diseases You will typically find apple trees relatively easy to grow, and once established, caring for them won’t take up a lot of your time. However, like any plant, apple trees can experience problems due to environmental issues, insufficiency of care or some other natural cause. Leaf curl is a sign that something has gone wrong, but getting to the bottom of what precisely has caused the issue is not always easy. Apple trees can experience leaf curl due to a range of factors, but some of the most common causes are: Water shortages Temperature extremes Nutrient deficiencies Pests Diseases Examining each of these areas should help you to identify why your apple tree is experiencing stress. 1) Underwatering The leaves on an apple tree may often curl due to the plant trying to conserve moisture due to a lack of watering. It could also be caused by some issue that prevents the plant from taking up water from the soil as it should, or because of a cold, drying wind that causes the tree to lose even more water from its leaves. In most cases, providing more water will allow the tree to recover. 2) Extremities In Temperature Extremely high temperatures in summer can also lead to leaf curl. Although extremely high temperatures are not that common here in the UK, heat waves are increasing in prevalence in the summer, and during these heat waves, apple tree leaves may curl. These trees typically prefer not to be exposed to temperatures above around 30°C. In high temperatures, apple trees will not be able to cool themselves as effectively through transpiration. Adding a thick organic mulch around trees and providing shade for young trees in summer can help them make it through a heat wave more safely. 3) Nutrient Deficiencies Nutrient deficiencies are relatively rare when an apple tree is grown in reasonably fertile soil, so this is a problem that you are more likely to encounter when growing apple trees in pots. Nutrient deficiencies might occasionally be caused by soil pH problems. When an apple tree is grown in too acidic or alkaline conditions, this can affect the availability of essential plant nutrients. The best way to make sure that an apple tree in the ground gets the nutrients it needs is to use companion plants and organic mulches to provide optimal soil conditions. When growing in pots, additional organic fertiliser may sometimes be required and the tree will have to be repotted with a new growing medium every couple of years. 4) Pests A more common cause of leaf curl on apple trees is infestation with pests – particularly sap-suckers like aphids. As aphids suck sap from an apple tree’s leaves, they deplete water and plant sugars, which can cause them to curl, discolour and even drop off in extreme cases. It is important to understand that it is a good thing to have some aphids in your garden, as aphids are an element in the ecosystem and provide food for a range of species. The key is to keep them under control, which we can ensure by increasing biodiversity as much as possible through planting and other choices in our gardens. Attracting predators that eat aphids to the space requires some aphids to be around, but those creatures, once they are present, will help keep aphid and other pest numbers down and protect an apple tree and other plants. 5) Diseases Unfortunately, leaf curl on apple trees can also be a symptom of a number of fungal and bacterial diseases that can affect these plants. “Although I like to leave leaves for habitat around the garden, I recommend removing and composting fallen leaves from around your fruit trees and roses in the autumn/winter,” advises Dan Ori, qualified Arboriculturist. “If you haven’t collected up any old fruit on the ground you should remove them also; we remove these fallen fruits and leaves to reduce populations and opportunities for harmful insects, fungal issues, and diseases.” See this guide for more information on many common apple tree diseases and how to treat them. Ensuring that your apple tree is as healthy as possible by providing the right environmental conditions and care, companion planting with beneficial plants and mulching to promote healthy soil should help you make sure your apple tree can survive, even when diseases and other issues do arise.
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Key Guidelines For Apple Tree Care Shared By Orchard Growers
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Where To Grow Apple Trees Choosing Your Apple Type Planting Apple Trees Apple Tree Care Growth Timelines References Apple trees are one of the simplest fruit trees to grow in the UK and offer a plethora of benefits to the garden space. I am lucky enough to have 6 mature apple trees in my forest garden orchard and these trees were one of the things about this property that led us to make it our forever home. Whether you have space for a single tree in your garden, wish to plant a whole orchard, or want to make an eco-friendly and sustainable forest garden of your own, apple trees can be a great choice. “If I had to choose a plant I couldn’t live without, it would have to be apple trees because I love my orchard,” shares Garden Writer Naomi Slade. “The trees are beautiful in blossom and in fruit, the apples are delicious and if you go away for a while they are unlikely to die.” As well as drawing on personal experience, for our apple tree guides I have collaborated with some experienced fruit tree specialists: Julie Bellemann – Co-op Member at Sheffield Fruit Trees Tom Adams – Owner of Tom Adams Fruit Tree Nursery “I’m passionate about growing apples because they represent a local distinctiveness and heritage that is being lost through the dominance of supermarkets and their drive towards monoculturalism,” says Tom. “I’m passionate about growing food in a way that works with and benefits the local environment and community.” Overview Botanical Name Malus domestica Common Name(s) Apple Tree Plant Type Tree Native Area Central Asia Hardiness Rating H6 Foliage Deciduous Flowers White or pink blossom Harvesting Months August-October Apple trees, Malus domestica, are thought to be hybrids of orchard origin. “The origin of Malus domestica is still in dispute among academics, however, it is generally agreed that Malus sylvestris and Malus pumila are genetic progenitors,” says Dan Ori, qualified Arborist.1 Apple trees derive from a common root in central Asia, but many different varieties are now found around the world, which, while they share certain things in common, can have extremely diverse characteristics.2 These are deciduous trees that blossom between April and June, fruiting from late summer to the end of autumn. These trees are easily grown, wildlife-friendly and productive, potentially offering very high yields. It’s no wonder that they are one of the most commonly cultivated fruit crops in temperate climate zones. Where To Grow Apple Trees You can grow an apple tree in an open situation, against a wall or fence or even in a container as long as you choose the right rootstock. Choosing the right rootstock is important, Dan says, because “they control the vigour of the tree…and ensure you have an appropriate size tree.” In addition: Rootstocks and cuttings give you a true clone of the desired plant, seeds do not. Rootstocks can be used to grow on a soil type that might normally be difficult if the plant was growing on its own roots. Rootstocks can be selected to improve disease resistance. It is therefore incredibly important that you match the conditions available to you with the right rootstock. Another of the most important things to think about when choosing where to grow an apple tree are light levels and the soil. For best fruit production, it is also worth noting that an apple tree should be exposed to around 1,000 hours of temperatures below 7°C in winter, at least 6-8cm of rainfall per year and reasonably warm summer temperatures. When choosing where to place an apple tree, it is important to offer it protection from late spring frosts and cold winds, especially those from the north and east. Suitable conditions for apple trees are pretty easy to provide in most of the UK. However, it is important to understand that choosing the right apple tree for where you live will be key to obtaining good yields. Choosing Your Apple Type Some apple tree varieties will thrive in southern areas, while others can cope with cooler and wetter conditions and will be better suited to more northern sites. When choosing an apple tree, it is important to consider: The rootstock that is chosen, as well as the named variety. Environmental needs of the variety in question. Pollination requirements. The properties of the fruit. “Make sure that you are choosing the right varieties and rootstocks for your situation,” says Tom. Thinking about the above will help you find an apple tree that can be grown in your own particular garden and that will meet your own requirements and desires. Planting Apple Trees Once you have chosen an apple tree variety to grow, there are 2 ways that you can purchase it. You can buy an apple tree as a bare-root plant (the cheaper option) or purchase a pot-grown specimen. Bare-root apple trees are planted during the dormant period, between November and March. Pot-grown trees can be planted at any time, but are also ideally planted during the winter months, as this is when they stand the best chance of establishing successfully where they are to grow. How To Plant Choose an appropriate location for the apple tree you have chosen. “It’s always a good idea to grow your apple trees in a diverse habitat to encourage predators and pollinating insects,” Tom says. Arborists used to advise 20-30 years ago that you dig a hole as deep as the roots of the apple tree you are planting and 3 times the diameter of the existing root system. However, “consensus among experts [nowadays] is to dig a hole the same depth and just slightly wider than the existing roots,” recommends Dan Ori. “[My] top tip – digging a square hole should produce better roots and a healthier tree; as the tree roots spread and hit the solid face of a square hole they are more likely to penetrate it and spread, rather than curl around the edge which could happen with a round planting hole”. Place the tree into the hole, spreading out the roots as you go, and make sure the tree is at the same level in the soil and is standing upright. Carefully firm the soil back around the roots, tamping it into place gently but firmly. Water the tree and add an organic mulch around, but not touching, the trunk of the tree. Apple Tree Care Light Apple trees grow and fruit best in a spot in full sun. Eating apples or dessert apples tend to need a sunny spot for the best ripening and flavour, whilst some tarter cooking and crab apples can be more tolerant of a partially shaded spot. Soil Requirements These fruit trees are more tolerant of soil type and conditions than many other fruit trees that might be grown in the UK and can do well in almost any fertile soil. However, they will do best where there is moist yet well-drained loamy soil, rich in organic matter. “Heavy and waterlogged soils should be avoided as apple tree roots will struggle to access essential nutrients in wet heavy soils,” advises Dan. “This poor nutrient uptake is due to anaerobic soil conditions and this, in turn, will potentially be causing poor tree health and susceptibility to disease.” The ideal soil will have a pH that is neutral, but it can tolerate higher or lower levels of soil acidity. Watering Once established, apple trees in the ground will typically only require watering during extremely dry periods. However, as young trees become established, they will need to be watered more frequently. Water well, but make sure excess water can drain away. Companion Planting You can ensure the health of an apple tree and improve yields if you plant a guild of companion plants around it. In an apple tree guild, we should place plants that offer benefits to the apple tree without increasing competition too much. We will often typically include: Dynamic accumulator plants that take nutrients from deep below the soil surface or which are good at gathering particular nutrients, and make them available in upper layers of the soil for the apple tree to use. These may also be chopped and dropped as mulch around the tree. Nitrogen-fixing plants that can cooperate with bacteria to replenish nitrogen in the soil. Attractant plants that bring in pollinators and other beneficial wildlife. Repelling plants that help an apple tree by distracting, confusing or repelling certain pests. Ground cover plants that protect the soil, conserve moisture and suppress weeds. Some plants can fall into more than one of these categories and are therefore great companion plants to place surrounding an apple tree. Some great companion plants for apple trees are: Comfrey – dynamic accumulator, attractant plant. Yarrow – dynamic accumulator, attractant plant. Borage – dynamic accumulator, attractant plant. White Clover – nitrogen fixer, attractant plant, ground cover plant. Mint – pest repellent, ground cover plant. Woodland Strawberries – attractant plant, ground cover plant. Daffodils (or other spring bulbs) – attractant, suppresses grass growth into guild area. Of course, these are just a few examples. Propagation Apple tree propagation is typically not an activity for beginners, as grafting is usually involved. Growth Timelines How Long Does An Apple Tree Take To Grow? It can take 2-6 years (depending on a number of factors) for an apple tree to start bearing fruit. “You can expect the first fruit on dwarf M27 rootstock from 2 years and vigorous M25 rootstocks from 5-6 years,” says Dan. “Large trees can take decades to reach their ultimate size and dwarf trees may reach their ultimate height in 3-10 years.” The time it takes an apple tree to mature and reach its optimal size can also vary greatly depending on the variety and rootstock chosen. And How Long Do They Typically Live For? Apple trees generally live for between 20-50 years, but this is a number that can vary dramatically, depending on various factors such as the cultivar and its growing conditions. They will typically have a productive fruiting life of 12-50 years, according to Arborist Dan Ori. “Most UK commercial apple trees grown for fruit are the M9 rootstock, these become less productive after 12 years, and are almost always pulled up and planted with new trees. “But don’t worry if you have an M9 at home, you will still get plenty of fruit past 12 years.” References 1. Coart, E., Van Glabeke, S., De Loose, M., Larsen, A. S., & Roldán-Ruiz, I. (2006). Chloroplast diversity in the genus Malus : new insights into the relationship between the European wild apple ( Malus sylvestris (L.) Mill.) and the domesticated apple ( Malus domestica Borkh.). Molecular Ecology, 15(8), 2171–2182. https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1365-294x.2006.02924.x 2. Malus domestica. (n.d.). Kew Royal Botanic Gardens. Retrieved March 9, 2023, from https://powo.science.kew.org/taxon/urn:lsid:ipni.org:names:726282-1
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Gothic Gardens: 30 Plants With Black Flowers Or Foliage For An Unusual Aesthetic
IN THIS GUIDE 1) African Mask 2) Black Bamboo 3) Columbine ‘Black Barlow’ 4) Black Bat Flower 5) Black Bearded Iris 6) Elephant Ear ‘Black Coral’ 7) Elderberry ‘Black Beauty’ 8) Calla Lily ‘Black Forest’ 9) Black Haworthia 10) Black Hollyhock 11) Pepper ‘Black Pearl’ 12) Coleus ‘Black Prince’ 13) Black Scallop 14) Black Velvet Petunia 15) Ninebark ‘Diabolo’ 16) False Shamrock 17) Fringe Flower 18) Coneflower ‘Green Wizard’ 19) Hibiscus ‘Midnight Marvel’ 20) Black Willow 21) Sunflower ‘Moulin Rouge’ 22) Black Mondo 23) Nemophila ‘Penny Black’ 24) Persian Lily 25) Tulip ‘Queen Of Night’ 26) ZZ Plant ‘Raven’ 27) Rex Begonia 28) Primrose ‘Silver Lace Black’ 29) Dahlia ‘Yellow Hammer’ 30) Aeonium ‘Zwartkop’ References When most of us think of plants and flowers, we think of greenery serving as a backdrop for bright colours and pastel tones. We rarely contemplate black blossoms or foliage, but the darker-toned members of the plant kingdom can be equally impactful in an outdoor or indoor display. While black flora is often associated with mourning, grief and loss, it can also symbolise mystique, elegance and intrigue. It also serves as a magnificent foil for some of the livelier tones in your garden, so the next time you’re planning an arrangement or border, keep these black flowers and foliage options in mind. “Black foliage can lend a really unfamiliar and exciting look to planting,” shares Colin Skelly, a Horticultural Consultant who specialises in garden design. “Combined with bright flowers and large leaves it can create a really exotic look. “I have used dark-leaved Colocasia in a pond surrounded by tree ferns to create a very otherworldly feel.” 1) African Mask BOTANICAL NAME: Alocasia × amazonica HARDINESS RATING: H1A PLANT TYPE: perennial / houseplant SUNLIGHT: part shade Elephant ear plants are striking enough in their own right, but this variety is something else. The foliage is as similarly oversized as other species in the genus, but its dark colourings, accentuated excellently by the whitish-greenish veining on the leaves, guarantee it’ll be a talking point wherever it’s grown. 2) Black Bamboo BOTANICAL NAME: Phyllostachys nigra HARDINESS RATING: H5 PLANT TYPE: bamboo SUNLIGHT: full sun / part shade Bamboo already provides excellent screening material, but the black variety of this sturdy grass is an even more attractive option. You can use it to create privacy in your garden or set it up as a backdrop for brighter colours to really pop in front of. 3) Columbine ‘Black Barlow’ BOTANICAL NAME: Aquilegia vulgaris ‘Black Barlow’ HARDINESS RATING: H7 PLANT TYPE: perennial FLOWERING SEASON(S): spring / summer SUNLIGHT: full sun / part shade Often mistaken for a dahlia, ‘Black Barlow’ is actually a columbine that has been specifically bred as a cut flower. With their double blooms, its blossoms resemble spiky pompoms and the dark plum (bordering on black) of the petals is perfectly offset by the brilliant yellow and green of the stigma and anthers. 4) Black Bat Flower BOTANICAL NAME: Tacca chantrieri HARDINESS RATING: H1B PLANT TYPE: perennial / houseplant SUNLIGHT: part shade This rare orchid earned its name because it apparently resembles a bat in flight, but it looks more like an extra-terrestrial creature if you ask me. Its black petals play host to a cluster of buds, while an abundance of drooping filaments shoot forth from its stamen. This plant is as creepy as it is compelling. 5) Black Bearded Iris BOTANICAL NAME: Iris ‘Black Dragon’ HARDINESS RATING: H7 PLANT TYPE: perennial FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer SUNLIGHT: full sun / part shade This bearded lovely does genuinely appear to be truly black. However, pay special attention to its changing hues when the light catches it just so and you’ll notice it carries undertones of purple and green. It’s a real showstopper, especially when paired with contrasting white or pastel blooms. 6) Elephant Ear ‘Black Coral’ BOTANICAL NAME: Colocasia esculenta ‘Black Coral’ HARDINESS RATING: H1B PLANT TYPE: perennial / houseplant SUNLIGHT: full sun / part shade Another variety of elephant ear, ‘Black Coral’ doesn’t have the attention-grabbing variegation of ‘African Mask’, but it does have the same floppy structure and velvety texture to its foliage. The leaves here are a more uniform dark purple, with the veins picked out in slightly lighter shades, and it will turn even darker the more sunlight it receives. It’s also slightly hardier making it a little less susceptible to colder conditions. 7) Elderberry ‘Black Beauty’ BOTANICAL NAME: Sambucus nigra ‘Black Beauty’ HARDINESS RATING: H6 PLANT TYPE: shrub FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer FRUIT SEASON(S): autumn SUNLIGHT: full sun / part shade ‘Black Beauty’ is a dark-toned elderberry variety that is a feast for all the senses. Its black foliage contrasts pleasingly with the delicate white and pink flowers that burst forth each spring, while its lemony aroma will tantalise the nostrils in summer. By autumn, the tangy black berries it produces complete the effect. 8) Calla Lily ‘Black Forest’ BOTANICAL NAME: Zantedeschia ‘Schwarzwalder’ HARDINESS RATING: H4 PLANT TYPE: houseplant / perennial FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer SUNLIGHT: full sun / part shade Forget the gateau, the gorgeously chocolatey leaves of the canna lily ‘Black Forest’ is the only sweet treat needed on any horticultural menu. This tropical stunner is prized just as much for its striking foliage as it is for its blood-red flowers, which fade to burnt orange as the summer wears on. 9) Black Haworthia BOTANICAL NAME: Haworthia coarctata HARDINESS RATING: H2 PLANT TYPE: succulent / houseplant FLOWERING SEASON(S): spring / summer SUNLIGHT: full sun / part shade Succulents are famously easy houseplants to care for and Haworthia is no exception – but the chunky, interconnected segments of its foliage certainly are exceptional. In April or May you can expect tiny florets of white to appear, adding even further intrigue to this fascinating little customer. 10) Black Hollyhock BOTANICAL NAME: Alcea rosea ‘Blacknight’ HARDINESS RATING: H5 PLANT TYPE: perennial / biennial FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer SUNLIGHT: full sun Hollyhock is often favoured for the stature it can bring to the rear of a border, but the variety ‘Blacknight’ is an even more dramatic backdrop. The black flowers can reach up to 10cm in diameter and unfurl from the base of the plant’s towering spikes upwards, mesmerising gardeners and pollinators alike. 11) Pepper ‘Black Pearl’ BOTANICAL NAME: Capsicum annuum ‘Black Pearl’ HARDINESS RATING: H1C PLANT TYPE: annual FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer FRUIT SEASON(S): summer SUNLIGHT: full sun While most capsicum (pepper) plants are cultivated specifically for their fruit, ‘Black Pearl’ is something of an outlier. The small pearl-like fruits, which start out black and mature to a ripe red, are technically edible, but are incredibly spicy.1 Instead, simply marvel at the glossy black foliage. 12) Coleus ‘Black Prince’ BOTANICAL NAME: Solenostemon ‘Black Prince’ HARDINESS RATING: H1C PLANT TYPE: houseplant / perennial / sub-shrub FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer SUNLIGHT: full sun / part shade Not to be confused with the Echeveria of the same name, this dense, low-growing shrub is characterised by strikingly black leaves, the toothed edges of which are highlighted in lime green. That contrast is surprising in the natural world and provides year-round interest for any corner of the garden. 13) Black Scallop BOTANICAL NAME: Ajuga reptans Black Scallop HARDINESS RATING: H7 PLANT TYPE: perennial FLOWERING SEASON(S): spring SUNLIGHT: full shade / full sun / part shade Sometimes known as Carpet Bugle, black scallop is adept at thriving in conditions where other plants falter, such as in the shade of trees or larger plants. For that reason, the creeping spread of its glossy black foliage is often favoured as ground cover in areas lacking lustre and life. As a fully-hardy perennial that can survive in pretty much any level of sunlight, this unfussy plant is ideal for adding low-maintenance darkness to any area of your garden. 14) Black Velvet Petunia BOTANICAL NAME: Petunia Black Velvet HARDINESS RATING: H2 PLANT TYPE: annual FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer / autumn SUNLIGHT: full sun This hybrid species has barely been around for a decade, which may make it more difficult to acquire. Having said that, its status as the world’s first black Petunia has contributed to its growing popularity in recent years, so you might still be able to enjoy its gothic charms and velvety texture in your garden.2 15) Ninebark ‘Diabolo’ BOTANICAL NAME: Physocarpus opulifolius ‘Monlo’ HARDINESS RATING: H7 PLANT TYPE: shrub FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer SUNLIGHT: full sun / part shade This dense shrub is a great option for hedging or screening around the garden, and though its leaves are actually a rich purple in colour, they appear to be black from a distance. That dark canvas is the ideal counterpoint to the coral-coloured flowers that spring forth profusely during the growing season and the bright red berries which follow later in the year. 16) False Shamrock BOTANICAL NAME: Oxalis triangularis HARDINESS RATING: H3 PLANT TYPE: houseplant / bulb FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer / autumn SUNLIGHT: part shade The trio of triangular leaves which perch atop each stem of the false shamrock give it its moniker. In the wild, however, that foliage is light green in colour, but breeders have selectively cultivated strains of the plant to produce black leaves with purple highlights. 17) Fringe Flower BOTANICAL NAME: Loropetalum chinense HARDINESS RATING: H4 PLANT TYPE: shrub FLOWERING SEASON(S): winter / summer SUNLIGHT: full sun / part shade The spidery tassels or ‘fringes’ of the flower heads which dangle from the Chinese Loropetalum shrub are what give the plant its common name. While the blossoms are certainly eye-catching enough in their own right, their appeal is only enhanced by the purplish-black foliage behind them. 18) Coneflower ‘Green Wizard’ BOTANICAL NAME: Rudbeckia occidentalis ‘Green Wizard’ HARDINESS RATING: H7 PLANT TYPE: perennial FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer / autumn SUNLIGHT: full sun Black-eyed Susan is perhaps the most famous rudbeckia cultivar, but despite its name, the ‘Green Wizard’ takes the black features of its counterpart to a whole other level. The large, cylinder flowerhead is a deep black in colour, flecked with spots of yellow at its apex, while the green sepals at its base can easily be mistaken for leaves. 19) Hibiscus ‘Midnight Marvel’ BOTANICAL NAME: Hibiscus ‘Midnight Marvel’ HARDINESS RATING: H3 PLANT TYPE: perennial FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer / autumn SUNLIGHT: full sun / part shade The scarlet flowers of this hibiscus cultivar survive for just one day, but the blooming season outlasts that of many others of its genus. What’s more, each flower can reach up to 22cm in diameter, while the vibrancy of their colourings is accentuated by the black backdrop of the foliage behind them. 20) Black Willow BOTANICAL NAME: Salix gracilistyla ‘Melanostachys’ HARDINESS RATING: H5 PLANT TYPE: shrub FLOWERING SEASON(S): spring SUNLIGHT: full sun Sometimes known as black pussy willow, this shrub features thick upright stems with eye-catching catkins of the darkest black, topped by a red tip. Their unusual appearance has made them popular as an ornamental flower at the rear of borders, next to fencing or in cut bouquets. 21) Sunflower ‘Moulin Rouge’ BOTANICAL NAME: Helianthus annuus ‘Moulin Rouge’ HARDINESS RATING: H4 PLANT TYPE: annual FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer SUNLIGHT: full sun Imagine if Baz Lurhmann teamed up with Tim Burton and the pair reworked Vincent Van Gogh’s famous sunflower masterpiece and you might come close to a visual representation of the ‘Moulin Rouge’ cultivar of the genus. The rusty black at the centre of the flower head softens to a reddish tint at their extremes for a truly unique effect. 22) Black Mondo BOTANICAL NAME: Ophiopogon planiscapus ‘Nigrescens’ HARDINESS RATING: H5 PLANT TYPE: perennial FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer FRUIT SEASON(S): autumn SUNLIGHT: full sun / part shade ‘Nigrescens’ goes by many names – including ‘Ebony Knight’ and ‘Black Dragon’ – and all of them pertain to the unusual colouring of its leaves. The foliage is purplish-green in dark or shaded areas, but expose it to full sunlight and watch them turn a profound black. This perennial is perfect for rock gardens and raised beds. 23) Nemophila ‘Penny Black’ BOTANICAL NAME: Nemophila menziesii ‘Penny Black’ HARDINESS RATING: H5 PLANT TYPE: annual FLOWERING SEASON(S): spring / summer SUNLIGHT: full sun / part shade The dark purple petals of this low-growing annual, which invariably come ringed in fives around their central stamen, look black even from close range, while the white edging at their tips adds to the effect further. Their trailing habit means they’ll look especially fetching when dangled over the side of a hanging basket. 24) Persian Lily BOTANICAL NAME: Fritillaria persica HARDINESS RATING: H4 PLANT TYPE: perennial / bulb FLOWERING SEASON(S): spring SUNLIGHT: full sun The Persian lily is available in a wide array of colours, but the cultivar bearing dark plum (verging on black) blossoms is perhaps one of the most highly prized. It’s not difficult to see why, either; the cascading bell-shaped flowers dangle serenely from the spikes of the plant, bringing plenty of style and shock to their surroundings. 25) Tulip ‘Queen Of Night’ BOTANICAL NAME: Tulipa ‘Queen of Night’ HARDINESS RATING: H6 PLANT TYPE: bulb / perennial FLOWERING SEASON(S): spring SUNLIGHT: full sun Although not a true black (think more maroon than obsidian), the ‘queen of night’ tulip is the darkest variety of this Dutch symbol there is. The single flower heads sit proudly atop the towering stems, while the lush greenery of the foliage and the dainty pale yellow of the anthers are pleasing contrasts to the ruby richness of the flowers. 26) ZZ Plant ‘Raven’ BOTANICAL NAME: Zamioculcas zamiifolia Raven HARDINESS RATING: H1B PLANT TYPE: houseplant / perennial SUNLIGHT: full shade / part shade ‘Raven’ is the only black variety of Zamioculcas zamiifolia in existence. The leaves may begin life green, but they’ll mature to a dusty black over time, taking on a shiny wax to their surface that makes the plant quite the sight to behold. 27) Rex Begonia BOTANICAL NAME: Begonia rex HARDINESS RATING: H1B PLANT TYPE: houseplant / perennial FLOWERING SEASON(S): winter SUNLIGHT: part shade The broad, heart-shaped leaves of rex begonia come in a wide variety of different colours, including black, pink and black or the quite incredible white and black variegated appearance above. Low-maintenance but high on impact, they’re the ideal addition to your home – inside or out. 28) Primrose ‘Silver Lace Black’ BOTANICAL NAME: Primula ‘Silver Lace Black’ HARDINESS RATING: H6 PLANT TYPE: perennial FLOWERING SEASON(S): spring / summer SUNLIGHT: part shade Primroses are often regarded as the quintessential British cottage garden flower, but the ‘silver lace black’ cultivar shakes things up a little bit. Their dainty, daisy-like petals are a brownish-black, fringed at the edges in white, while the bright yellow stamen sets off the effect with no little panache. 29) Dahlia ‘Yellow Hammer’ BOTANICAL NAME: Dahlia ‘Yellow Hammer’ HARDINESS RATING: H3 PLANT TYPE: perennial FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer / autumn SUNLIGHT: full sun Dwarf dahlias like ‘Yellow Hammer’ are compact creatures, meaning they’re a great choice for mixed borders and raised beds. The bright yellow blossoms of this cultivar are attractive enough to begin with, but the stark contrast of the bronzed black foliage really takes things up another level. 30) Aeonium ‘Zwartkop’ BOTANICAL NAME: Aeonium ‘Zwartkop’ HARDINESS RATING: H1C PLANT TYPE: succulent / houseplant FLOWERING SEASON(S): spring SUNLIGHT: full sun These succulents can thrive outdoors as well as inside the home, as long as you live in a part of the country that receives enough sunshine. If they fail to get their quota of sun, the fleshy foliage will resemble a reddish-purple shade, but with enough UV, the leaves are fully black. References 1. Capsicum annuum “Black Pearl.” (n.d.). Missouri Botanical Garden. Retrieved March 13, 2023, from https://www.missouribotanicalgarden.org/PlantFinder/PlantFinderDetails.aspx?taxonid=260123 2. Clarke, T. (2010, November 25). World’s first black flower created. Channel 4 News. Retrieved March 13, 2023, from https://www.channel4.com/news/worlds-first-black-flower-blooms
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Cercis Siliquastrum ‘Judas Tree’ - A Nitrogen Fixer Suited To Milder Gardens
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Growing From Seed Planting A Judas Tree Ongoing Care Dwarf Judas Trees References Cercis siliquastrum, the ‘Judas Tree’, is a wonderful choice for milder gardens in the south of the UK. If you can provide relatively warm, sunny and sheltered conditions then this is an excellent ornamental and productive tree to consider. Interestingly, though often grown merely as an ornamental specimen, this tree is also a very useful one. As a member of the legume family along with peas and beans,, it is a tree that hosts bacteria which can take atmospheric nitrogen and make it available in the soil, commonly known as a ‘nitrogen fixer’.1 The blooms in spring are also beneficial in bringing in and providing nectar for bees and other pollinators, so, where suitable conditions can be provided for flowering, this might be a good choice for a wildlife-friendly garden. “In the autumn an attractive feature of the Cercis are the masses of flat, purple seed pods hanging from its branches,” shares Master Horticulturist Roy Nicol. Overview Botanical Name Cercis siliquastrum Common Name(s) Judas tree Plant Type Tree Native Area France to East Mediterranean Hardiness Rating H5 Foliage Deciduous Flowers Rosy-pink pea flowers followed by purple pods When To Plant March-May or September-November When To Prune June Cercis siliquastrum, also known as the Judas tree or European Redbud, is closely related to other common garden trees. The tree is native to the region between France and the Eastern Mediterranean, which gives some clues as to the environmental conditions that it prefers,namely warm and sunny without excessive rain or severe winter cold.2 Growing From Seed Cercis siliquastrum is usually grown from saplings or young trees which are purchased. However, if you are patient and up for a challenge, you could consider collecting the seeds from an existing tree to sow. Seed is collected in the autumn and, after soaking in water for 24 hours, sown in a cold frame so that germination occurs in the spring. Alternatively, they can be sown during spring in pots of peat-free, multi-purpose potting mix or a homemade equivalent in warm conditions at around 18°C. The seeds do germinate fairly readily. However, note that you should expect growth to be just 2-6 inches over the first year. Patience is most certainly required because it will typically take 15 years before your tree grown from seed will begin to flower. With this in mind, it’s clear to see why the majority of Judas trees are purchased as container-grown specimens. Planting A Judas Tree You can plant out one of these trees anytime, though the best times are typically spring or autumn when moisture levels and temperatures are such that transplantation shock should be reduced. C. siliquastrum does not like much root disturbance, so you should take care to treat a new tree carefully and plant it out as quickly and smoothly as possible. It can be beneficial to add mycorrhizal fungi to the hole where you are planting your tree to aid in the establishment. Preferred Aspect Judas trees prefer a site in full sun, where conditions are warm and sunny through the summer months, but they can cope with partial shade. Although they are H5 hardy and can cope with winter conditions, they do need Mediterranean-like summer conditions to flower well. For this reason, they tend to do better towards the southern end of the British Isles and will not do so well up north. Soil Requirements The soil can be of almost any type and pH but it must be free-draining and well-drained. Growing C. siliquastrum amid other Mediterranean species, including Mediterranean herbs, could be an excellent choice for a sunny and sheltered spot, as it could bring that Mediterranean feel to your southerly UK garden. You might also consider an olive tree for year-round appeal and shrubs like Teucrium fruticans to further complement this look. Ongoing Care Judas trees, when grown in a suitably sunny, warm location with free-draining soil, will require a little care until established, but should be fairly low-maintenance afterwards. Feeding & Mulching Upon planting, it is important to add an organic mulch of compost, well-rotted manure, or leafy greens and wood chips or bark. This will add fertility as well as retaining soil moisture and suppressing weeds. This mulch should be replenished each year in early spring. Watering Although these trees are reasonably tolerant of dry conditions once established, they do need to be watered well and regularly after planting until their root systems have developed. Pruning Cercis siliquastrum is in RHS pruning group 1, so not much pruning (if any) is required. You may, however, give the tree a tidy-up and light prune after flowering. When pruning, it is important to remember that this tree flowers on year-old wood, so don’t inadvertently miss out on the beautiful flowers due to incorrect pruning. Common Problems The most common issues that arise will be due to a problem with environmental conditions. Further north, summer temperatures may not be high enough for the wood to ripen and the tree to flower successfully the following spring. Problems with watering or soil drainage can cause verticillium wilt and other fungal issues. Luckily, this tree is usually untroubled by pests. “Scale insects are sometimes an issue and can normally be tolerated without causing ongoing damage to the tree, but if required, organic sprays containing natural pyrethrum could be used to control them,” adds Roy. Dwarf Judas Trees If you are looking for an even more compact tree for a small space, then cultivars of the related C. canadensis such as ‘Ruby Falls’ or ‘Lavender Twist’ could be good choices. These types can remain less than 2m in height with a 1.5m spread. References 1. Rhizobium: nitrogen fixing bacteria. (n.d.). Milne Library. Retrieved March 14, 2023, from https://milnepublishing.geneseo.edu/botany/chapter/rhizobium/ 2. Cercis siliquastrum —The Judas Tree. (n.d.). Arboretum Foundation. Retrieved March 14, 2023, from https://www.arboretumfoundation.org/wp-content/uploads/2010/11/anderson_judas-tree.pdf
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Mountain Clematis - A Vigorous Choice Ideal For Covering A Garden Structure
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Common Varieties Planting Mountain Clematis Clematis montana Care Common Problems References The most vigorous of climbers in all of the Clematis family, Clematis montana is an excellent choice for covering a fence, wall or other upright structure in foliage and flowers with minimum fuss. Not only do they grow extremely quickly, reaching more than ten metres in length if left unchecked, but they also flower profusely. “Asking yourself what you want a clematis to do is the most important question,” says Ken Black, the owner of Ken Black Clematis, a plant nursery that specialises in these beautiful climbers. “If you want one that is vigorous to cover a shed, garage, large wall or fence, a Montana will do this, and provide flowers in May.” This means that they’ll put on a beautiful show during the blooming months, with pink or white blossoms swarming their vines in a highly pleasing manner. They’re not just pretty faces, either. The subtle vanilla aroma which accompanies their appearance is as attractive to humans as it is to pollinators, so expect plenty of bees, birds and butterflies to descend on your garden as well. “If you want a scented clematis, then a Clematis montana might be the one for you,” says Fiona Woolfenden, the secretary of the International Clematis Society. “Buy these clematis when the plant is in flower so you can smell the scent or from a reputable nursery who says that the plant they have is scented.” Overview Botanical Name Clematis montana Common Name(s) Mountain Clematis / Himalayan Clematis / Anemone Clematis Plant Type Perennial / Climber Native Area Asia Hardiness Rating H5 Foliage Deciduous Flowers Abundant single or double white or pink flowers cluster on the vine When To Plant March-April When To Prune March-August According to Kew, Clematis is a genus of 384 accepted species.1 The name of the species Montana refers to the mountainous regions of Asia to which this plant is native to.2 Mountain clematis are favoured in gardens around the UK as a means of quickly and effectively covering a vertical structure, though they can also be used as makeshift ground cover. Having said that, their rapid climbing ability and the profusion of flowers they produce each spring are certainly their main strong suits. Common Varieties C. montana is a popular climber throughout the UK and various cultivars have been specifically bred for horticultural use in garden displays. The most popular among them include: C. montana ‘Elizabeth’ With pale pink blossoms that exude a deliciously sweet scent, ‘Elizabeth’ is ideal for covering the wall or fence adjoining a walkway so that they can be enjoyed to their fullest. During the flowering season, it blossoms so profusely that leaves are a rare sight. C. montana ‘Freda’ Roughly half the size of most clematises, ‘Freda’ is perfect for smaller spaces and its conservative growing habits mean there’s no danger it will get out of hand. What’s more, its cherry-pink petals fade to white in the centre with yellow stamen, making it one of the more striking flower heads in the C. montana family. C. montana var. grandiflora This oversized clematis boasts flowers up to 7cm in diameter and, if left unchecked, will reach up to 12m in both height and spread. Its brilliant white flowers are not as fragrant as some other species, but their purity and panache will shine in any garden display. Planting Mountain Clematis It’s a good idea to soak your clematis plant in water for at least a quarter of an hour before planting to ensure it’s fully hydrated. “My grandfather told me: ‘careful planting is the key to success’ – and I’ve never forgotten it,” shares Peter Skeggs-Gooch, the owner of Thorncroft Clematis & Climbers. “Preparation of the hole and added material to improve the soil are the most important factors.” Dig a hole that’s big enough for the root ball to sit a few centimetres below the surface of the soil and make sure the base and sides are malleable enough to allow for easy drainage. Organic compost can help to give the plant the best chance of establishing itself quickly, so a handful of this at the bottom of the hole is a good idea. “Large flowered clematis are greedy plants and need to be fed regularly,” explains Fiona Woolfenden. “It is best to give them a top dressing of compost every year in the spring and a handful of slow-release fertiliser such as chicken manure pellets. “Feed during the summer with tomato feed to keep the blooms going.” Clematis montana Care C. montana is incredibly easy to grow in the UK and can handle most temperatures and humidity levels. It may struggle if exposed to temperatures below 10°C on a consistent basis, but generally speaking, it’s happy enough in most locations. Aspect Since it works best when trained up a fence or trellis and prefers as much sunlight as you can give it, it’s advisable to plant it next to the south-facing side of the structure you wish to adorn with its beautiful blooms. “When considering a planting position, always think where the plant will want to go rather than where you want it to go,” advises Colin Skelly, a Horticultural Consultant with over a decade of experience in the industry. “It will always grow towards the maximum available light, so place the plant so that it can grow where it will want to. “This will avoid the need to cut back C. montana, which will not require hard pruning unless it outgrows its desired position. “C. montana var. grandiflora is something of an exception, as it will grow happily in shadier areas.” Overwintering Depending on the cultivar chosen, mountain clematis usually has an RHS hardiness rating of H5. That means it can withstand most British weather quite comfortably, but if the temperature does manage to drop beneath -15°C where you live, you may look to mulch around the base. Soil “Although they tolerate cold and winds they are not used to boggy or overly wet conditions and will not thrive if they do not have good drainage,” explains Ken Black. If your garden suffers from particularly poor soil, you may want to consider enhancing it with organic compost. Watering Water newly planted specimens regularly until the roots are established. After it has reached maturity, it shouldn’t require any irrigation other than that it receives from precipitation. Container Growing Although clematis plants are normally grown directly in the ground, it’s entirely possible to cultivate them in a container. Choose one which is around 50cm wide and at least as deep and add stones to the base to aid drainage. Other than that, plant your mountain clematis in the same way you would if planting in the ground, using the guidelines mentioned above. “Don’t put a clematis in a small pot straight in the garden as the slugs and snails will enjoy it more than you!” Fiona warns. “Clematis in small pots, typically bought very cheaply in a supermarket, need to be grown in a pot for a year or so until they have a good root system.” Pruning In general, it’s not necessary to prune your mountain clematis plants at all. “Before planting, make sure that you have the space for your clematis, especially C. montana types, which can grow to be huge,” says Fiona. “Check how large the plant could get by looking at the plant label or consulting online.” If certain vines and branches are becoming overgrown and unsightly, you might want to trim them back when the blooms fade. You can also deadhead old blooms in autumn to encourage better growth next year. Propagation There are two ways to propagate mountain clematis – from softwood cuttings or by layering. If following the former, cut a branch from the main plant of about 7cm in length in April or May. Remove most of the foliage and plant the cutting upright in a rooting mixture, then cover it with a plastic bag or place it in a propagator. Keep it warm and moist (but out of direct sunlight) until it has rooted, which normally takes around 5 weeks. If layering, select a healthy stem which can reach the ground. Bend it down to reach the soil and make a small nick in the stem near the tip, applying rooting hormone to the incision. Bury the stem in a hole and use a stake or twine to secure it in place. Water the trench and do not remove the stem from the main plant until it has established its own shoots. Common Problems “Many gardeners think they have clematis wilt when they see a plant with a stem with flowers and leaves that have drooped,” says Fiona Woolfenden. “Wilt is actually very rare these days and what is much more common is that one or more of the stems of the plant has been damaged by snails or slugs, an animal or even a careless gardener! “If only one stem has drooped, follow it back and see if you can find a damaged part on the plant. “The damage can be just a small crack or bend in the stem or where a snail has stripped the outer layer off the stem. “In these cases, cut the stem below the damaged part and it will regrow. “If all the stems have drooped and you cannot see any damage, cut all the stems down and, as long as you planted it deep, it should regrow next year. “Do not compost the stems you removed if you think the plant does have wilt.” References 1. Clematis. (n.d.-b). Kew Royal Botanic Gardens. Retrieved March 14, 2023, from https://powo.science.kew.org/taxon/urn:lsid:ipni.org:names:329401-2 2. Clematis montana. (n.d.). North Carolina Extension Gardener Plant Toolbox. Retrieved March 14, 2023, from https://plants.ces.ncsu.edu/plants/clematis-montana/
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