Growing
Cultivation, Fungal And Pest Issues Can Sometimes Affect Yuccas - These Are The Fixes
IN THIS GUIDE 1) Cultivation Issues 2) Fungal Problems 3) Pests Yuccas are not particularly challenging plants to grow and don’t have many problems or issues. However, as with any plant, things can sometimes go wrong. Here are the most common problems and issues you are likely to encounter: Cultivation issues related to your gardening practices or environmental conditions, such as discoloured or drooping leaves. Fungal issues causing brown spots on leaves or root rot. Pest problems such as issues with aphids or snails when growing yuccas outdoors. Keep reading to understand these issues in more detail and to find out what you can do to prevent or fix them. 1) Cultivation Issues If any problems or issues do occur, they are most commonly caused by something that you, as the grower, have done or failed to do – or an issue with the location in which you have chosen to grow your plant. Brown Leaves If you see brown leaves on your yucca plant, it is not always a cause for concern. Lower leaves naturally turn brown and are shed as the plant continues to grow. However, if many leaves are brown and crispy, this is likely because your plant has not received enough water. Brown tips of leaves can suggest that the humidity was too low, while more widespread browning often means you have not been watering enough. See more on fixing brown leaves in this guide. Drooping Leaves Drooping leaves are most commonly caused by low light levels. Yuccas need plenty of light and it is very common that indoors grown plants don’t get enough. However, leaves may also droop if the temperatures have been too low during a sudden cold snap when yucca are outdoors. Indoors or out, drooping leaves can also be a sign of under-watering or overwatering. Overwatering is likely the culprit if the drooping leaves also suddenly turn yellow on your plant. We share more on fixing drooping leaves in this guide. Yellow Leaves As with brown discolouration, some yellowing on the lower leaves of a yucca plant is completely normal. However, if the leaves suddenly go yellow and seem rather limp, this is often due to overwatering, or a problem with drainage that has led to waterlogged soil. If watering has been extremely excessive, root rot can set in. Cut off affected root sections and repot your yucca once you spot the issues and it may still recover. Learn more about fixing yellow leaves in this guide. 2) Fungal Problems While cultural problems are far more common when growing yucca, you may also experience fungal issues when growing this plant. Brown Spots Fungal issues often manifest themselves as brown spots on the leaves of your plant. Simply cut off any leaves that are showing signs of infection to prevent its spread, and this should not be too great an issue. Root Rot Root rot can occur not only due to waterlogged soil but also due to fungal infection as a result of excessive water. It is not always easy to find out whether fungi are involved, but if root rot occurs, you will need to cut off all affected areas and repot in a new medium to prevent moving fungi with your plant. “Root rot will not usually happen with a potted Yucca with adequate drainage,” explains Colin Skelly, a Master Horticulturist. “Repot using John Innes No.2 with some added grit and ensure that the pot has plenty of drainage holes. If you have a drainage tray, make sure that your Yucca is not standing in a sump of water after watering.” 3) Pests Yuccas are generally not particularly troubled by pests. However, there are a few small issues that can arise when growing these plants outdoors. Aphids Sometimes, aphids can be found on yucca flowers, though should not usually affect the plant excessively. Attracting beneficial predatory insects and tolerating aphids in your space is the best way to prevent this pest from getting out of control. Snails Another issue that sometimes arises is snails damaging the yucca leaves. This is rarely a major problem but can cause your plant to look unsightly. Attracting birds and other wildlife that eat snails to your garden and cutting off any affected leaves should ensure that this does not become a bigger issue.
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Yucca Leaves Drooping? Don't Give Up On It Before Trying This Horticulturist's Advice
IN THIS GUIDE 1) Low Light Levels 2) Water Shortage 3) Overwatering 4) Cold Temperatures Yuccas can often be relatively easy and trouble-free houseplants to grow, and can also work well outside in certain areas of the UK. However, like any other plant, they can encounter issues now and then. Drooping leaves are one of the signs that your yucca is not entirely happy and you may need to carry out a little detective work to determine exactly what is wrong. Drooping leaves are often a sign that: Light levels are too low. You have not watered your yucca enough. You have watered too much or the soil is waterlogged. The yucca has been exposed to temperatures too cold for the particular variety you are growing. Read on to understand each of these issues and their solutions in more detail. 1) Low Light Levels Most yuccas need a reasonable amount of sunlight each day. Drooping leaves can be a sign that your yucca, especially if grown indoors, is not getting enough light. Move your yucca to a brighter location and it may well recover. If the issue is not resolved, the droopy leaves may eventually drop off the plant. 2) Water Shortage A yucca with drooping leaves might also be a sign that you have not given your plant enough water. Though yuccas need good drainage, you should also water freely throughout the growing season between April and September, making sure not to let the growing medium dry out entirely. During the dormant period in winter, allow the top 5cm of your potting mix to dry out and then water well, making sure that the surplus can drain away freely. If this problem is not resolved, the drooping leaves will likely turn brown and the plant may ultimately die. 3) Overwatering Drooping leaves can also be a sign that you have watered too much or that the drainage in your container is not sufficient. However, drooping leaves in this case are usually accompanied by some sudden yellowing of the leaves on your plant. If you think that overwatering may be the issue, reduce watering and allow the plant to virtually dry out. If the problem has continued long enough that the roots have rotted, remove the plant from its container and discard any rotted roots and the medium. Re-pot your yucca in a container just big enough to accommodate the smaller root ball, water sparingly, and it may recover. 4) Cold Temperatures An unexpected cold snap may also cause the leaves to droop on a yucca that is growing outdoors. Tender yucca will not be able to tolerate temperatures below 7°C at night and can only be over-wintered indoors, but even hardier options will struggle if the weather is particularly cold. Protect hardier types growing outdoors with horticultural fleece or move them to a greenhouse or other undercover area if a cold snap is forecast. “If your Yucca is outdoors and gets frost damage, don’t give up on it and dig it up immediately,” says Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly. “There is a chance that it will recover into May and June and show signs of life where there were none before.”
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8 Tender And Hardy Yucca Varieties Suited To Indoor, Patio Or Courtyard Planting
IN THIS GUIDE 1) Y. elephantipes 2) Y. gloriosa 3) Y. aloifolia 4) Y. flaccida 5) Y. filamentosa 6) Y. rostrata 7) Y. whipplei 8) Y. baccata References With their bold, spiky foliage, bell-shaped flowers and interesting forms, yuccas will make a great addition to your displays. Their exotic appearance recalls more tropical climes, while their stature and structure bring architectural drama to their surroundings. A native genus of the Americas, it’s true that most yuccas do prefer warmer and drier climes. However, many are hardy enough to withstand British weather and for those more tender species which can’t, they make excellent houseplants. With that in mind, we’ve compiled a list of some of our favourite yucca varieties for you to cultivate in your own back garden, greenhouse or home. When making your selection, be mindful of the effect you wish to create and the space available to you and you won’t go far wrong. 1) Y. elephantipes COMMON NAME(S): spineless yucca HARDINESS RATING: H2 FLOWERS: white FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer / autumn SUNLIGHT: bright, direct sunlight EXPOSURE: sheltered SOIL PREFERENCE: loam or sand; any pH SIZE: 1.5-2m in height, 0.5-1m spread Probably the most popular species of yucca sold in the UK, this large shrub or small tree is capable of exceeding 10m in height given the right conditions! Unfortunately (or perhaps fortunately, depending on the dimensions at your disposal), those conditions are not common outdoors in Britain. Therefore it makes more sense to treat spineless yuccas as houseplants. They’re hardy down to 1°C so will do well indoors, while the fact that their leaves aren’t as spiky as many other varieties means there’s no chance of them rubbing you up the wrong way. 2) Y. gloriosa COMMON NAME(S): Spanish dagger HARDINESS RATING: H5 FLOWERS: cream FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer / autumn SUNLIGHT: full sun EXPOSURE: exposed / sheltered SOIL PREFERENCE: chalk, loam, sand; any pH SIZE: 1.5-2.5m in height, 1.5-2.5m spread At the other end of the spectrum we have the Spanish dagger, which, as the name suggests, has sharp foliage. This is a hardy yucca suitable for borders or courtyard garden cultivation. It’s also a large shrub or small tree, reaching around 2.5m in height, whilst its 1m long leaves and creamy flowers catch the eye when in full bloom. Although it is suitable for growing indoors, this hardy species can do even better outside, as long as it’s placed in full sun and receives excellent drainage in its soil. It has a slow growth rate wherever it’s cultivated, though it will mature slightly faster outside. There is also a variegated version ‘Variegata’ with leaves striped and edged with creamish-yellow hues. Again, this is H5 hardy. The leaves are often harvested to make rope, clothes or other materials. 3) Y. aloifolia COMMON NAME(S): Spanish bayonet HARDINESS RATING: H3 FLOWERS: purple and white FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer / autumn SUNLIGHT: full sun EXPOSURE: sheltered SOIL PREFERENCE: chalk, loam, sand; any pH SIZE: 1.5-2.5m in height, 0.5-1m spread Continuing with the theme of Hispanic pointed objects, the Spanish bayonet is equally as prickly as its compatriot. It features one or more stems with sparse branches, crowned by a spiky rosette of razor-sharp leaves. In summer, the blossom of white and purple-tinged flowers can stretch for over 50cm. It’s a delicate creature that’s unable to withstand less than 7°C in the colder months. For that reason, it’s a good idea to treat it as a houseplant or position it in your greenhouse or conservatory in winter. 4) Y. flaccida COMMON NAME(S): Adam’s needle / golden sword HARDINESS RATING: H5 FLOWERS: white FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer SUNLIGHT: full sun EXPOSURE: exposed / sheltered SOIL PREFERENCE: loam or sand; any pH SIZE: 0.1-0.5m in height, 1-1.5m spread Despite its fearsome name, the Adam’s needle yucca is far less of a weapon than the two previous entries on this list. It’s a clump-forming shrub that dispenses with a stem altogether, instead favouring lance-like leaves. They tend to droop away at their extremities and although not soft, they’re not as sharp as others. Yucca flaccida such as ‘Ivory’ or ‘Golden Sword’ (both of which have received an RHS AGM) are also good choices for courtyard gardens or other sunny, relatively dry spots in the ground or in containers. The former has white flowers on panicles around 1.5m high, while the latter has lance-like leaves with golden stripes down their centres, and creamy white flowers on panicles around 1.5m high. Their relatively low height (just over 50cm) makes them ideal for smaller spaces, though you should be aware that both their flower panicles and their spread can exceed 1.5m. 5) Y. filamentosa COMMON NAME(S): needle palm HARDINESS RATING: H5 FLOWERS: white FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer SUNLIGHT: full sun EXPOSURE: exposed / sheltered SOIL PREFERENCE: chalk, loam, sand; any pH SIZE: 0.5-1m in height, 1-1.5m spread Easily identifiable by the thin filaments found on their long, evergreen leaves, needle palm takes both its Latin and its common name from the phenomenon. This is a small stemless shrub which forms clumps of deep green leaves which are edges with curled filaments. The clumps grow to around 75cm height, with a spread of around 1.5m. In late summer, flowers are borne on panicles that can reach up to 2m in height. While you might need to look closely to notice these defining characteristics, the tall panicles of clustered white flowers (capable of reaching over 2m in height) will be immediately obvious. Yucca filamentosa is one of the hardier species of the genus, able to withstand temperatures as cold as -15°C. That makes them the perfect plant for even the frostiest regions of the UK, though they still demand plentiful sunshine and adequate drainage. This is a good choice for dry, hot borders and courtyard gardens. “A fixture of riviera-style coastal plantings in the UK, Yucca filementosa is a great option for adding an exotic touch to your garden for all but the coldest parts of the UK,” shares Horticultural Consultant Colin Skelly. “The stems provide year-round needle-like foliage texture and the flowers are unmissable.” 6) Y. rostrata COMMON NAME(S): beaked yucca HARDINESS RATING: H5 FLOWERS: white FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer SUNLIGHT: full sun EXPOSURE: sheltered SOIL PREFERENCE: chalk, loam, sand; any pH SIZE: 2.5-4m in height, 1.5-2.5m spread The pompom-like rosette of blue-green leaves of the beaked yucca begins life on the ground. Don’t be fooled by its slow-moving growth habits, however; given time, this spectacular specimen can surpass 4m in height! Its impressive stature and interesting architecture make it one of the more striking yucca plants available. What’s more, it’s a tough customer that will fend off sub-zero temperatures with ease! If you want it to reach its full potential, you might have a long wait on your hands, as it can take over a decade to completely mature, but the good news is that it will demand little in the way of upkeep in that time. 7) Y. whipplei COMMON NAME(S): our lord’s candle HARDINESS RATING: H4 FLOWERS: cream FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer SUNLIGHT: full sun EXPOSURE: exposed / sheltered SOIL PREFERENCE: chalk, loam, sand; any pH SIZE: 0.5-1m in height, 0.5-1m spread Our Lord’s Candle is a medium-sized shrub which features long leaves with serrated edges that take no prisoners. Its foliage is a greenish-blue in colour and can take a decade to reach its full length of up to 5m (though normally far less), at which time it will flower. The blooms are comprised of masses of bell-shaped white flowers which will die once it has finished blooming. However, one or more offsets normally spring up in its place, so take care when cutting away the old plant to make way for the new. More suitable for outdoor than indoor cultivation. 8) Y. baccata COMMON NAME(S): banana yucca HARDINESS RATING: H3 FLOWERS: cream, red, purple and white FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer SUNLIGHT: full sun EXPOSURE: sheltered SOIL PREFERENCE: chalk, loam, sand; any pH SIZE: 1.5-2.5m in height, 1.5-2.5m spread So named for its small green fruit which resembles bananas, the Yucca baccata requires next to nothing in the way of maintenance and isn’t even overly bothered about irrigation. Its fruits are edible and incredibly sweet, often used to make cakes, tarts and other delectable desserts.1 As for the plant itself, it’s a slow-growing shrub capable of reaching around 1.5m in height and around the same in spread, though it will take many years to do so. It’s best suited to gravel gardens, patios or courtyard planting and should deal with the vagaries of the British climate as long as it’s afforded enough sun. References 1. Yucca baccata. (n.d.). PFAF Plant Database. Retrieved March 27, 2023, from https://pfaf.org/user/plant.aspx?LatinName=Yucca+baccata
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Crocus Are Often Grown From Corms, But Did You Know You Can Grow Them From Seed?
IN THIS GUIDE 1) Collect Seeds 2) Sow Seeds 3) Wait For Germination 4) Care For Seedlings 5) Plant Out References Crocuses are typically grown from corms, which are sold for planting in autumn. However, if you want to obtain a large number of crocuses for a larger naturalising project, then you may wish to try your hand at growing these pretty flowering plants from seed. Most spring flowering crocuses are not actually too challenging to germinate and grow on successfully. However, the process does require some patience and a bit of work, since you will need to wait. Here are the steps to follow: Collect the seeds when they become viable in May or June. Sow the seeds quickly before they lose viability. Wait for germination, which usually takes a few months. Care for the seedlings correctly when they emerge. Plant out the seedlings after 3 years in your garden. Keep reading to get more information on each of these steps. Difficulty Medium to hard Equipment Required Seeds, seed tray, soil, cold frame or greenhouse When To Sow Summer When To Plant Out Autumn 1) Collect Seeds The seeds of crocuses can be found within swollen sheaths that are located close to the ground near the base of the plant. These can be carefully collected when they ripen and are mature, which is typically around May or June with spring-flowering types. 2) Sow Seeds “For growing large numbers of any plant, seed sowing is often the best option, but make sure you factor in the cost of pots and compost and also the space that will be taken up before sowing commences,” shares Colin Skelly, a Master Horticulturist with almost 15 years of experience in the industry. It is important to sow the seeds as soon as possible after they are collected as crocus seeds can lose viability quite quickly. Sow your crocus seeds into trays of an appropriate growing medium. The medium should be moist, but it is essential to provide free-draining conditions. Sow your crocus seeds on the surface of the growing medium and cover lightly with horticultural grit. 3) Wait For Germination There are several important things to remember when trying to get crocus seeds to germinate successfully. The first thing is that damping off and other fungal issues can often become a problem, so using an anti-fungal can help mitigate risk. One idea to try is using a copper fungicide or you might also try an organic gardening trick and sprinkle cinnamon in your seed trays.1 Of course, good hygiene is essential and seed trays should be scrupulously clean. You should also take care to provide very good ventilation and free-draining conditions. Another key thing to remember is that crocus seeds need to be exposed to a period of warm and then a period of cold in order to germinate. So, after sowing, it is best to place the seeds in a protected space, but not one entirely insulated from the seasonal changes, like a cold frame or unheated greenhouse. 4) Care For Seedlings If you are successful in getting crocus seeds to germinate, shoots should appear between January and March of the following year. When new shoots appear, it is important not to let them experience sub-zero temperatures as they are very vulnerable at this stage. If you are not careful, they can be killed by being frozen when wet. Make sure they are in a location that does not drop below 1-2°C. It can be warmer but remember, the space must be well-ventilated as damping off and other fungal issues can still arise. Pot on your young seedlings into pots once they are large enough to handle, repotting them into a loam-based compost with added grit for drainage. Repot them each year with a fresh growing medium and feed them with a weak, balanced organic fertiliser, which will help encourage healthy corm formation. 5) Plant Out By their third year, the crocus grown from seed should flower and will be healthy and strong enough to be planted out into your garden. References 1. Could cinnamon oil be used as an alternative to antifungals? (n.d.). Microbiology Society. Retrieved March 14, 2023, from https://microbiologysociety.org/news/society-news/could-cinnamon-oil-be-used-as-an-alternative-to-antifungals.html
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Crocus In Pots Are Best Grown With Other Bulbs To Achieve A Cheery Spring Display
IN THIS GUIDE But Can You Plant Crocus Bulbs In Pots? Choosing A Plant Pot Compost For Crocus Planting Crocus In Pots Potted Crocus Care Crocuses are one of the most popular and cheery spring bulbs. We are all familiar with their delightful flowers popping up in sunny glades beneath deciduous trees before their leaves emerge. They also look great when naturalised on lawns or at the front of beds and borders. But Can You Plant Crocus Bulbs In Pots? Crocuses are a wonderful choice for container growing. Small and compact, they can be grown even in relatively small pots and can be grown on their own or with other bulbs for a seasonal display in spring. Combine them with other perennial plants and you might also enjoy a display that can last over a number of years. Growing crocuses in containers does require a little more thought and work than growing them in a more natural way in your garden, but it is certainly not something that is too challenging to do. Choosing A Plant Pot Crocuses have small bulbs (technically corms) that grow into small plants. Though the bulbs will remain alive and burst into new growth each year, the flowers bloom over a relatively short period. This means that crocuses are best combined in containers with other spring bulbs that bloom in the mid and late-spring season, or with other plants that extend the period for which you can enjoy an attractive display. A larger container, one around 40-50cm in width and depth, will allow you to plant crocuses as part of a spring bulb lasagne display or within another mixed display for your garden. One key thing any container bought or made must have is adequate drainage at the base, to provide the free-draining conditions that these spring bulbs require. Compost For Crocus Crocus bulbs are not particularly fussy about soil type, so you don’t need to worry too much about buying or creating a very specific compost type or blend. This is also true of other spring bulbs like daffodils and tulips, so you can simply use any peat-free multipurpose compost mix or growing medium that you either buy or make yourself, with a little grit added to the mix to improve the drainage. Planting Crocus In Pots When planting crocus, you will first have to decide which crocuses you will be growing. The most commonly grown crocuses are those that bloom in the early spring, but there are also those that bloom in autumn, and a few are alpine plants that require more specialist care. Crocuses are typically grown from bulbs planted in the autumn between September and November and you can get away with planting them right up until Christmas, though it is likely that they will bloom later than expected if you plant them this late. Crocus bulbs are typically placed around 7-12cm deep. Make sure that you identify the pointy end of each corm and that these face upwards. If you are creating a bulb lasagne, then crocus bulbs may well make up the top tier of your planting and will be the last to be put into position. How Many Can You Plant Per Pot? How many crocus bulbs you can plant in a pot will depend on a number of factors. Of course, you need to consider that pots come in many sizes. Naturally, you also need to think about how many other bulbs or plants you wish to fit into the same container. Potted Crocus Care For most crocuses, place your container in full sun, but make sure you understand the needs and environmental preferences of the particular crocus varieties that you have chosen to grow. Over the winter months, protect crocus bulbs by placing mesh over the top of the plants if squirrels or other pests become a problem. Keep soil moist by watering consistently once green growth emerges if it is dry, but take care not to overwater and always let excess water drain away freely, as Colin Skelly, a Master Horticulturist, explains: “Although pots outside will require little watering over winter and into early spring, make sure that you check the soil moisture during spells of dry weather. “If the soil dries out you may find that your crocus flowers inconsistently as the plants respond by assuming drought conditions. “I have found that this is most likely to happen in early spring as the weather warms up but you’re not quite yet in the habit of checking watering regularly.” During the colder months, water sparingly if rainfall is lacking, but generally, winter watering won’t be required outdoors. After crocuses flower, make sure you let the leaves remain and die down naturally, so they can work to gather energy that will be stored within the corm for next year. If crocuses become congested, lift and divide the existing clumps in autumn and, if desired, move some of the corms to a different container.
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Snowy Mespilus - How To Grow Amelanchier Lamarckii With Katherine Crouch
IN THIS GUIDE Overview Planting Amelanchier Juneberry Plant Care References While originally hailing from the US, this tree has settled nicely into the UK and makes a great addition to any garden, whether you plant it yourself and watch it grow over the years or you move into a place where a thoughtful previous resident did the waiting for you.1 This tree is beautifully colourful, with a clean white blossom giving way to rich green leaves that then fade out through a pleasing autumn palette. Purple-pink berries join the medley of colour in summer and these, called juneberries or serviceberries, are edible!2 Overview Botanical Name Amelanchier lamarckii Common Name(s) Snowy Mespilus / Juneberry Plant Type Perennial Native Area Canada Hardiness Rating H7 Foliage Deciduous Flowers White blossom When To Plant October to November When To Prune March When you see this tree in spring bloom it’s easy to see where the common name Snowy Mespilus comes from, as the white flowers are really a sight to behold. Amelanchier lamarckii has been awarded the Award of Garden Merit (AGM), meaning it’s particularly well suited to growing in British conditions. This makes it a fine candidate for anyone looking for a tree in their garden. “If you want a tree in your garden (which you should do), consider small-leaved ones like Amelanchier,” shares garden designer Katherine Crouch. “In the autumn gales, with any luck, the leaves will all blow next door or curl up under a hedge, meaning no masses of leaves to rake!” Canadian heritage means this tree can handle very low temperatures and it’s rare that we see cold anywhere close to those extremes! It’s noted for its ability to attract bees and other pollinators too, great if you’re looking for a little buzz. You can grow A. lamarckii in the ground or in a container and it can also be grown as a tree, a shrub or a hedge. This versatility makes it a popular choice for a range of gardeners. Planting Amelanchier Clay or loam soil is favourite for A. lamarckii, as well as a spot with plenty of space to allow the tree room to thrive. If you’re growing A. lamarckii from seed, grow in a cold frame in late summer and plant out the following spring. If you’ve bought a plant in a container, you can plant it out at any time, although October or November is preferable. If you decide to plant out from a container in spring be extra vigilant, taking care to water your Amelanchier frequently to help it get established. Find a spot with full sun or partial shade, with moist soil and good drainage. Choosing a spot with good amounts of sunshine will lead to a more vibrant autumnal colour palette. How To Plant To plant out an Amelanchier bought in a container, dig a hole of suitable size in the ground and lift it in, taking care to pack the soil around the roots tight enough that the young tree can stand up on its own firmly. The top level of the soil should be level with the rest of the bed, and you should water right away. Juneberry Plant Care Whether you’ve got an A. lamarckii plant already or you’re planning to get one, learning how to take care of it will help it to thrive long into its life. Preferred Soil & Fertilising Clay or loam is favoured by this plant, with good drainage as another important feature. This said though, they’ll do well in other types of soil too, just make sure to avoid soil with lime as this tree prefers acidic to neutral pH levels. This tree likes well-drained soil as we’ve said; areas that are left soggy will most likely damage the roots and stunt growth, potentially even killing the tree if the issue is not rectified. They will tolerate drought conditions for a length of time, but you should still take care to water as and when they need to keep them healthy. Watering With a newly-planted tree, water a couple of times a week to help it get established. After a year or so, when your juneberry is established, you won’t need to water it anymore except during the most severe drought conditions. Deliberate watering is mainly good for nurturing the plant through its fledgling years. Staking It’s okay to stake young A. lamarckii trees, but remember not to tie the stakes too tight. Your tree still needs to be able to sway in the wind as this helps to establish and strengthen the root system that will keep it anchored in the future. Also, remember to remove your stakes after a couple of years, as a stake left on for too long can cause damage to the trunk of your tree and stunt future growth. Common Problems Thankfully, this tree is fairly resistant to pests and other problems. The thing to keep an eye out for is fireblight, which is a bacterial infection that leads to damage that looks like it may have been caused by fire – hence the name. If you see any of the following symptoms, your juneberry may be infected: Wilting or dying blossoms. Slimy white liquid in wet weather. Shoots shrivelling and dying. Fox colouration beneath bark. The way to control fireblight is the immediate removal and destruction of the infected areas. Obviously, if the infection spreads to the main trunk this can be difficult to achieve. Pruning This tree has a tendency to arrive at well-organised branch structures of its own accord and requires little pruning as a result. “I am a huge fan of multi-stemmed Amelanchier lamarckii for small gardens, as there is something for every season,” shares Colin Skelly, a Master Horticulturist with years of experience, including 5 years working at The Eden Project. “You can prune out the oldest stems to keep the size of the tree limited, which also limits the shade underneath and increases the planting opportunities. “You can also fully rejuvenate the tree by pruning out 1/3 of the oldest branches every year for 3 years.” If you do decide to prune away areas, do so in late winter or early spring. Companion Planting This plant looks great with tulips around its base, or against the bright red colouration of cornus alba. References 1. Amelanchier × lamarckii. (n.d.). Kew Royal Botanic Gardens. Retrieved April 11, 2023, from https://powo.science.kew.org/taxon/urn:lsid:ipni.org:names:721221-1 2. Wong, J. (2018, August 2). Juneberry, the blossom with benefits. The Guardian. Retrieved March 9, 2023, from https://www.theguardian.com/lifeandstyle/2017/mar/26/juneberry-the-blossom-with-benefits
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Growing Pak Choi From Seed: Provide Consistent Warmth To Prevent Bolting
IN THIS GUIDE 1) Find A Spot For Sowing 2) Sow Pak Choi Seeds 3) Water Consistently 4) Thin Out Seedlings Pak Choi, also called Bok Choy, is a staple green used in Korean cooking, but you don’t have to prepare Korean dishes to enjoy this veggie, as it’s also delicious in stir-fries, salads and soups. This vegetable, especially when young, is prone to bolting in very warm or very cold weather, or when there is a sudden and sharp change. Though a few new cultivars have been bred to be bolt-resistant, relatively stable temperatures within a range of 12-25°C are most suitable, meaning it’s best grown in the late spring or early summer or late summer to early autumn in the UK. No matter which variety you choose, you can sow and grow tasty Pak Choi by following these steps: Find a suitable location for sowing and cultivate to a shallow depth. Sow your Pak Choi seeds indoors in late winter, or sow directly outdoors after the last frost. Water consistently to avoid issues with bolting. Thin out the seedlings so that plants are placed between 12-14cm apart. This process is explained in more depth below. Difficulty Medium Equipment Required Secateurs and gardening gloves When To Sow April – July 1) Find A Spot For Sowing For any Pak Choi, choose a position in full sun that is sheltered and does not have a north-facing aspect. The soil should be of a rich, fertile type, and a mixed loam is best. Cultivate it to a shallow depth and amend with some well-rotted manure or organic compost. It is not necessary to feed Bok Choy, though you can mix a small quantity of balanced slow-release fertiliser such as blood, fish and bone into the soil at the time of sowing seeds. The soil should drain very well and have a pH of slightly alkaline to neutral. 2) Sow Pak Choi Seeds Sow seeds soon after the last frost when the ground is workable and the soil has lost its chill. Seeds should be spaced depending on your variety and at what stage you intend to harvest the veggie. Sow seeds thinly 2cm deep. You could begin by spacing seeds 3-4cm apart if you intend to harvest semi-mature or mature Pak Choi. If you intend to harvest your plants at the baby stage, you could place seeds more closely together. Cover lightly with soil but do not pack it in. “Pak Choi crops are a magnet to slugs and snails, so I would advise some protection is put in place to prevent attack from molluscs,” adds Roy Nicol, a Master Horticulturist. “The soil can be treated with slug nematodes a week or so before sowing; snails also avoid ground treated in this way.” 3) Water Consistently Pak Choi does best in soil that is consistently moist but not soggy. Dry soil, especially in summer can trigger bolting. Accounting for rain, water the plants twice a week with 1-1.5cm of water. Try to water at soil level and in the early or mid morning. 4) Thin Out Seedlings When the seedlings reach 5-6cm tall, it is time to thin them out. Cut every alternate seedling at soil level with secateurs. This first round of thinning should result in seedlings spaced apart by 6-8cm. After about 3 weeks, thin a second time so that the plants are spaced apart by about 12-14cm. After another three weeks, if you intend to harvest plants at maturity, do the last round of thinning, spacing the plants 20-25cm apart.
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Basil Seeds Need Warmth And Light To Germinate - Start Yours In Early Spring
IN THIS GUIDE When To Sow Basil Seeds 1) Select Your Variety 2) Prepare Planter Trays 3) Sow Your Basil Seeds 4) Transplant Outdoors 5) Water & Fertilise Regularly A hugely popular and impressively versatile ingredient, basil is as effective in the kitchen as it is endearing to grow! As a result, it’s ever-present in the homes and gardens of budding chefs and horticulturists across Britain. Its ease of growth also makes it an excellent starting point for those not yet entirely confident in their gardening abilities. If that sounds like you, here’s a brief rundown of the steps involved in growing basil from seed: Select the variety of basil you’d like to grow. Prepare pots, planters or seed trays. Sow basil seeds and allow them to germinate in temperatures of 20°C and over. Transplant outdoors in your garden, or move into a larger pot and grow on a sunny windowsill. Water and fertilise – harvesting regularly as and when you need the leaves. If that sounds a little overwhelming for a novice gardener, don’t worry – we’ve explained each step in more detail below. Difficulty Easy Equipment Required Seed trays, compost, plastic wrap, fertiliser, pots When To Sow April or May When To Plant Out June When To Sow Basil Seeds Because basil is a Mediterranean herb, it prefers warmer temperatures and plentiful sunshine. Therefore, it’s best to grow it during April or May – the more hospitable months of the year in the UK. On the other hand, if you’re growing it indoors, it can be cultivated at any time of the year. In fact, it’s a good idea to bring at least some of your al fresco plants inside when the temperature drops to ensure you have a steady supply of leaves in winter. Those with a heated propagator will also find them extremely useful when growing basil from seed. 1) Select Your Variety Sweet basil (AKA Classic Italian Basil) is probably the type with which you are most familiar, since it’s the one commonly found in supermarkets and has the classic earthy aroma and sweetness. However, there are plenty of others to experiment with. Thai basil carries a slightly spicy kick to its sweetness, while purple varieties have a stronger odour and cinnamon ones pack an extra punch. 2) Prepare Planter Trays Use a seed tray to give your basil seeds the best chance of flourishing. If you don’t have one, a washing-up bowl with 4 drainage holes drilled into the base or small individual pots will also do the trick. Whatever you use, the drainage holes are important. Fill your containers with multi-purpose compost that’s free from peat but rich in nutrients. Firm this down gently with the flat of the hand. Moisten the soil, but don’t allow it to become saturated, as this will drown the seeds before they can germinate. 3) Sow Your Basil Seeds “Spread the seeds thinly across the top of the compost,” explains Peter Lickorish, a Horticulturist with 5 years of professional experience. “They do not need to be covered with compost, as light is needed for germination. “Vermiculite could be used to cover seeds, as it can let light through.” Cover the tray or pots or glass to preserve heat and humidity. Water the soil daily but sparingly to ensure it remains moist but not waterlogged. “Watering from a try underneath can prevent seed from being unsettled,” Peter suggests. The seed trays should be placed on a warm windowsill that maintains a temperature of around 22°C but isn’t exposed to direct sunlight. A heated greenhouse can be used from late spring. After 1-2 weeks, the first shoots should begin to appear. 4) Transplant Outdoors Once the seedlings have grown large enough to handle (at least 3cm in height), you may transplant them. This can be directly into the soil outdoors or into pots around twice the size if you plan to keep them inside. “Potting them into gradually larger pots in stages can help prevent them from sitting in damp compost,” says Peter. If planting into the ground, choose a spot sheltered from wind and frost and place the plants around 30cm apart. For indoor plants, expose them to as much sunlight as possible. 5) Water & Fertilise Regularly Basil will appreciate good nutrition, so fertilise the potted plants monthly by using nettle tea or something similar. Water well (once every 2 days in the height of summer), but avoid getting the leaves wet. This should prevent powdery mildew or other diseases from developing. Prune your plants regularly and ruthlessly. Prune them back to 20cm in height and strip away as many leaves as you need, taking care to always leave at least three pairs of offshoots from the main stem so that it can continue to thrive. “Watch out for common problems with seedlings that include slugs, snails and damping off, where stems snap and rot from excess water,” says Peter. “Try not to leave trays of seeds sitting in water for long periods and if slugs and snails are a problem with basil seedlings in a greenhouse, consider placing hollowed oranges around, in which they will accumulate and can then be disposed of.”
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Prune Your Pear Tree When Dormant In Winter, It Helps Establish A Good Form
IN THIS GUIDE Why Prune Pear Trees? When To Prune Pear Trees Pruning Young Pear Trees Winter Maintenance Winter Pruning For Mature Trees Summer Pruning Renovating An Overgrown Tree Pear trees are one of the fruit trees commonly grown in the UK that does require some pruning. However, as you will discover below, there are a number of different strategies that you can adopt, and several different levels of pear tree pruning that you might consider. Why Prune Pear Trees? Which pruning you undertake for a pear tree will depend on the age and size of the pear tree in question and also what exactly you wish to achieve. However, at least some pruning is important, because it will help to keep the pear tree in optimal health. Pear trees are pruned in order to: Establish a good form and structure on newly planted trees. Maintain good health by getting rid of dead, damaged or diseased material. Regulate the size of the tree with general maintenance pruning. Maintain a particular shape and form. Renovate a large and overgrown pear tree. When To Prune Pear Trees Most pruning on pear trees is undertaken in the winter months, while the fruit tree is dormant. However, depending on what you wish to achieve, there may be additional pruning to do in the summer too. Pruning Young Pear Trees Pruning a young, newly planted pear tree involves making sure that it gets off to a good start with a productive and healthy framework of branches. Unless you wish to train your tree into a non-standard bush form, then the process for pruning 1-2 year-old pear trees is as follows: In the first year, between November and March, cut back the primary stem just above a strong shoot around 75cm from the ground, making sure that there are 3-4 shoots that are evenly spaced below this point. Next, shorten each side branch by around half, cutting just above a bud that faces outwards. If there are any lower branches remaining, these can also be removed. In the second year, cut back the main branches by around 1/3, cutting above a healthy outwards facing bud, leaving up to 10 branches to form the permanent framework of the tree. Leave side branches growing from these main stems uncut, but remove any if they are crossing one another or growing towards the centre of the tree. Remove any strongly upright shoots from the top of your young pear. Winter Maintenance Once trees are a few years old, the most important and crucial type of pruning is general maintenance pruning. This type of pruning is carried out every winter to make sure that there is a cycle of wood that fruits well, with older and less productive branches removed. The goal is to achieve an open canopy with a framework of 5 or so main branches with an open goblet-like shape. The process is relatively simple, but it does take a little work: First and foremost, check over the tree and remove any dead, damaged or diseased material, as well as any crossing branches that are rubbing on one another. Next, it is a good idea to cut back each of the main branches by around a third, cutting back to a bud on each to make sure the tree maintains a good shape and develops new branches and fruiting spurs. Do not prune young side shoots as these can develop fruit in the second year. Remove any strong shoots that are more than 15cm long and growing towards the centre of the tree. Thin out the spurs on the underside of branches where they won’t get as much light for fruit if the tree looks to have become congested. Winter Pruning For Mature Trees With the maintenance pruning described above, the tree will get a bit larger each year. So, in addition to making sure the tree is healthy and has a good framework, you might also want to make sure that it does not get any bigger. You can do this type of pruning once the tree is the optimum size for its rootstock. Using a clean, sharp pruning saw, remove all dead, damaged and diseased material and larger crossing branches. Aim to prune back strong branches growing at the heart of the tree to keep the canopy open, but leave smaller fruiting branches, fruiting spurs and weaker lateral growth. Don’t prune the branch leaders as they can grow more vigorously when pruned. Where branches are too long, these can be cut out entirely to the trunk or, ideally, to a lower, more horizontal, outward-facing branch. You should remove at least 1/3 of the thickness. Aim to leave at least 40-45cm between the tips of branch leaders and create an open framework with gaps that a blackbird could fly through. Always cut to a branch collar point or a side branch, leaving no stubs, and don’t remove more than 10-20% of the canopy of a pear tree in one year. Excessive pruning can lead to the growth of many watershoots, so make sure you don’t overdo the pruning in a single year. Summer Pruning Some pear trees may be pruned in more specific ways to maintain a particular shape and form. Examples of this are cordon, fan and espaliered trees. For each of these, very specific pruning is required and, in addition to maintenance pruning in winter, these trees may also require some additional pruning to restrict vigorous growth in the summer too. Renovating An Overgrown Tree If you have a large, overgrown and somewhat neglected pear tree on your property, it may require somewhat more drastic pruning. Renovation is all about solving issues with an overcrowded main branch framework and taking the tree back to a healthy, open-goblet form. Renovation pruning is best carried out slowly over several years, or watershoots can become a problem. Remove no more than a quarter of the canopy in a single winter and save more work, if required, for a subsequent season. Remember, a blackbird should be able to fly between your branches. Aim to reduce overcrowding, but on the whole, avoid removing anything more than 20cm in diameter. There are many intricacies to pruning pear trees, but on the whole, as long as you aim for an open, healthy framework and don’t overdo the pruning, you should not go too far wrong.
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