Growing
You Can Take Cuttings From Existing Ginger Plants To Grow More - Just Follow These Steps
IN THIS GUIDE 1) Acquire Your Ginger Plant 2) Cut It Into Pieces 3) Prepare The Growing Tray 4) Plant Your New Rhizomes 5) Transplant Into Pots 6) Care For Your Plant(s) 7) Harvest And/Or Propagate Again! A common ingredient in Asian cuisine, ginger is a delightfully fresh and lightly spicy addition to curries, stews and stir-fries. Its versatility in the kitchen and its ease of cultivation make it a firm favourite with gardeners throughout the country. To propagate your own ginger, you can take cuttings from existing plants, or simply buy a healthy ginger rhizome from any supermarket or grocery store. “This is a fantastic project for a school gardening club or youth group,” Colin Skelly, Horticultural Consultant suggests. “What a great way to learn about where plants come from and what they need to grow!” It’s possible to take cuttings at any time of the year, as long as you make sure you aren’t exposing the newly propagated plants to extreme outdoor temperatures. To grow yours from cuttings, follow these steps: Choose your ginger plant (you can use supermarket-bought roots) Cut it into pieces of at least 1 inch, aiming for at least 2 eyes per section. Prepare the growing tray with sphagnum or cuttings compost. Plant your new rhizomes in the compost mix and cover over slightly. Transplant to pots once your ginger begins to develop roots and shoots. Water regularly and keep adding compost as the stem develops. Harvest for propagation (again!) or for eating. For more information on each stage of the process, please see our detailed instructions below. Difficulty Easy Equipment Required Spade or fork, knife, bleach, cuttings compost mix, module tray, pot When To Take Cuttings All year round 1) Acquire Your Ginger Plant There’s no need to trawl the internet when searching for the perfect ginger rhizome from which to propagate new plants. Simply head down to your local supermarket and select a plump, healthy-looking root section. Ideally, you should aim for one with no wrinkles and at least two eyes (protrusions from which new shoots grow). Organic ginger is best if you can get it, since non-organic varieties may carry chemicals that inhibit their growth. Wash your ginger to remove any growth inhibitors. 2) Cut It Into Pieces This step is entirely optional, but doing so will allow you to grow more plants simultaneously. Again, you want to guarantee that every section you slice has at least 2 eyes and is at least 1 inch in length. Leave the ginger for a couple of days so that the wounds callus over, which will protect it when it’s in the ground. 3) Prepare The Growing Tray Ginger thrives in well-draining terrain, so you may wish to use sphagnum moss or coconut fibre module tray as these both drain exceptionally well. Otherwise, a tray with adequate drainage holes should work fine. Partially fill the tray with a high-quality cuttings compost mix, leaving plenty of room for the ginger to sit on top. 4) Plant Your New Rhizomes Lay the ginger on top of the cuttings compost mix with the eyes facing upwards. Sprinkle around 1 inch of compost mix on top of the rhizomes, taking care to leave the eyes exposed. Position the module tray in a warm location with partial shade. The ideal temperature for the soil is around 20°C, but slightly cooler environments will suffice. Water the ginger regularly to keep the soil damp but not saturated. 5) Transplant Into Pots Before transplanting the ginger into bigger pots, you must wait for it to develop both roots and shoots. This normally takes around 2 weeks, but keep an eye on your plant(s) so that you’re ready to act when it happens. When ready, gently remove the rhizome from the module tray and place it into a pot at least 30cm deep. If planting in rows, give at least 20cm for each plant. Place 5cm of soil over the rhizome, taking care to ensure the shoot is exposed. 6) Care For Your Plant(s) Water the ginger plant regularly, always guaranteeing that the soil remains moist and not any wetter. Keep adding soil to the pot as the stem grows to ensure it remains covered. It’s possible to move it outdoors during the summer months if desired, but it will not tolerate an exposed location well. Ginger also demands warmer temperatures at all times, so it must be moved indoors when the mercury drops. 7) Harvest And/Or Propagate Again! There is no limit to the number of times you can propagate your ginger plants. When propagating an existing plant, just be sure you handle it gently during the uprooting process so as to avoid damage to the rhizome. You can chop off as many pieces of the plant as you like (either for further propagation or for use in your culinary dishes) without killing it – as long as you ensure that the original rhizome still has at least 2 healthy eyes. Then simply repeat the process above for unlimited ginger!
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Trap Crops And Dynamic Accumulators - The Flowers You Should Be Planting With Vegetables
IN THIS GUIDE 1) Comfrey 2) English Lavender 3) Sweet Pea 4) Daisy 5) Thyme 6) Cosmea 7) Marigold 8) Dwarf Perennial Lupin 9) Fennel 10) White Clover 11) Borage 12) Sunflower 13) Sweet Alyssum 14) Chamomile 15) Garden Nasturtium References If you’re growing vegetables in your garden, you might be wondering which flowering plants would work well if grown next to them. Growing flowering plants as companions to vegetables can offer a range of benefits, which, depending on the plant, can include: Boosting pollinator numbers Deterring pests such as aphids and spider mites Acting as ‘trap crops’ by attracting pests that will then ignore your vegetable crop Providing beneficial nutrients – either as dynamic accumulators, or as fertilisers which can be turned into ‘tea’ or ‘chopped and dropped’ Offering shade or beneficial soil conditions through their foliage or roots In this guide, we share fifteen plants that will provide some or all of these benefits in your vegetable plot: 1) Comfrey BOTANICAL NAME: Symphytum officinale HARDINESS RATING: H7 PLANT TYPE: perennial FLOWERS: pink, purple and creamy yellow FLOWERING SEASON(S): spring / summer Symphytum officinale, or comfrey, is a highly beneficial plant to grow with your vegetables. Although often grown as a stand-alone perennial, comfrey makes a great addition to a vegetable garden, as when it flowers, it can attract a range of pollinators to your garden. It is a favourite of Permaculture gardeners due to the many holistic benefits it provides in the garden.1 Growing comfrey means you can harvest the leaves to make comfrey tea, which can be used as an organic fertiliser for the plants in your vegetable patch that love potash – like tomatoes for example. There are endless benefits to growing comfrey varieties next to your vegetables, but keep in mind that this plant can grow quite large, so be sure to keep it in check by cutting back regularly – ideally before setting seed as Comfrey is a prolific self-seeder. 2) English Lavender BOTANICAL NAME: Lavandula angustifolia HARDINESS RATING: H5 PLANT TYPE: shrub / herb FLOWERS: purple FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer English lavender is famed for attracting bees and other pollinators, as anyone who has grown it can attest. However, its aromatic qualities are also useful for deterring some pests that might otherwise munch on your veg; it is especially useful when planted next to brassicas (such as cabbage and broccoli) to deter pests such as cabbage white butterfly. Lavender loves the sun and will do best when grown in a sheltered position with well-draining soil. 3) Sweet Pea BOTANICAL NAME: Lathyrus odoratus HARDINESS RATING: H3 PLANT TYPE: annual / climber FLOWERS: purple, pink, red blue and white FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer / autumn A nitrogen-fixing plant, Lathyrus odoratus, also known as sweet pea, is an annual shrub that will help brassicas and other leafy greens get the nutrients they need naturally.2 Sweet peas are also great plants for pollinators, producing purple flowers in the summer and autumn months, and can be grown against a trellis with climbing vegetables, like runner beans, that also like the same growing conditions. 4) Daisy BOTANICAL NAME: Bellis perennis HARDINESS RATING: H7 PLANT TYPE: perennial FLOWERS: white and pink tinges with yellow centres FLOWERING SEASON(S): spring / summer Daisies are a great choice for growing in your vegetable bed if you are limited in space. Growing to only 10cm in height and spread, these tiny perennials can cope well in a range of conditions and will attract beneficial insects to the plants growing around them. I’d recommend planting daisies around the base of your larger vegetables so they can also act as a ground cover plant and help deter weeds. 5) Thyme BOTANICAL NAME: Thymus vulgaris HARDINESS RATING: H5 PLANT TYPE: shrub / herb FLOWERS: pink and white FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer Thyme is a fragrant shrub that is said to help repel aphids, cabbage moths and other related pests from your brassicas. However, there are another few reasons that you might consider growing thyme in your garden – one of them being that they can enhance the flavour of many of your vegetables. This may be simply anecdotal, but when planted next to tomatoes, shallots, potatoes and many other delicious crops, thyme is said to improve the taste. We’ll leave that for you to decide! 6) Cosmea BOTANICAL NAME: Cosmos bipinnatus HARDINESS RATING: H3 PLANT TYPE: annual FLOWERS: white, red and pink FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer / autumn With their white and pink fragrant flowers appearing throughout the summer and autumn months, cosmos are great companion plants for a range of vegetables. By planting cosmos next to tomatoes, squash and a range of other vegetables, pollinators will frequent these plants too, resulting in a typically larger yield which can then be harvested readily.3 If you fancy brightening up your vegetable plot, why not try planting cosmea next to some beetroots, as their brightly coloured blooms will stand out against the green and purple foliage of this commonly grown garden vegetable. 7) Marigold BOTANICAL NAME: Calendula officinalis HARDINESS RATING: H5 PLANT TYPE: annual / biennial FLOWERS: orange FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer / autumn Marigolds are a great plant for your vegetable garden for many reasons. Like the others on this list, they are pollinator-friendly, but they are also effective plants for attracting pests like slugs and snails. Feeding on marigolds keeps these pests well away from your leafy greens. They are also relatively low-maintenance plants and can grow well in a range of conditions, so will be easily sown in garden beds with a range of different veggies. 8) Dwarf Perennial Lupin BOTANICAL NAME: Lupinus nootkatensis HARDINESS RATING: H6 PLANT TYPE: perennial FLOWERS: white, pink, purple and blue FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer A member of the Legume genus, Lupinus nootkatensis is another nitrogen-fixing plant that will help the plants growing closest to it to grow. Lupins are a great choice for short veggies that need some shade to grow best, such as lettuce – as their abundance of upright purple flowers and bushy green foliage can provide all the shelter they need. I’ve chosen this specific dwarf variety of lupin because although it is 1.5m tall, it shouldn’t spread any further than 1m, leaving plenty of room in your vegetable beds for productive crops. 9) Fennel BOTANICAL NAME: Foeniculum vulgare HARDINESS RATING: H5 PLANT TYPE: perennial / herb FLOWERS: yellow FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer Fennel is a perennial herb that is not usually recommended for companion planting at all. However, it is an excellent pollinator and is good at repelling flies, particularly carrot flies that can damage the roots of carrots, parsnips and celery.4 Do not let this plant go to seed, as it will germinate freely and can be a prolific spreader once established. 10) White Clover BOTANICAL NAME: Trifolium repens HARDINESS RATING: H7 PLANT TYPE: perennial FLOWERS: white and pink FLOWERING SEASON(S): spring / summer White clover is most commonly planted in vegetable gardens as a living mulch that can prevent common weeds, retain moisture in the ground and fix nitrogen from the atmosphere, enriching the soil.5 Although it is technically a weed, this plant can also bring beneficial pollinators to your vegetable patch. I’d recommend planting white clover after your vegetables are already established to prevent it stealing nutrients that might benefit your crops. 11) Borage BOTANICAL NAME: Borago officinalis HARDINESS RATING: H5 PLANT TYPE: herb / annual FLOWERS: blue FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer The leaves from borage, a relative of comfrey, can also be harvested and used in organic fertilisers, chopped and dropped directly onto the soil and grown as green manures. It is said to grow well and benefit companion veggies that thrive in conditions with high levels of Potassium, such as peas, cucumbers and beans.6 12) Sunflower BOTANICAL NAME: Helianthus annuus HARDINESS RATING: H4 PLANT TYPE: annual FLOWERS: yellow or red with brown centres FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer Sunflowers are beloved by gardeners and pollinators, and they can be a treat in your vegetable patch too! They are a great choice for planting alongside tall, climbing veggies like cucumbers, peas and corn that will need some support from stakes or a trellis when growing in your garden. In fact, these vegetables can even grow around your sunflowers and assist in supporting each other as they both grow taller. Not only that, you can harvest the sunflower seeds at the end of their flowering season and use them in your salads with the greens you’ve just grown them with. 13) Sweet Alyssum BOTANICAL NAME: Lobularia maritima HARDINESS RATING: H3 PLANT TYPE: annual / perennial FLOWERS: white FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer If aphids are a problem in your vegetable patch, growing sweet alyssum nearby might be an easy fix. This short-lived perennial produces clusters of white flowers that attract predatorial insects such as ladybirds – known for feeding on aphids and other pests. With a single ladybird able to devour up to 50 aphids each day, your leafy greens should be safer and less likely to be targeted by these frustrating, sap-sucking pests.7 14) Chamomile BOTANICAL NAME: Chamaemelum nobile HARDINESS RATING: H7 PLANT TYPE: herb / perennial FLOWERS: yellow and white FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer Chamomiles are not just attractive herbs – this hardy perennial attracts pollinators, enriches the soil with nutrients to encourage more rapid growth and can be used as ground cover to keep the soil moist. Chamomile really is a delight for all of your leafy greens. 15) Garden Nasturtium BOTANICAL NAME: Tropaeolum majus HARDINESS RATING: H3 PLANT TYPE: annual / climber FLOWERS: yellow, red and orange FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer / autumn Tropaeolum majus, more commonly known as garden nasturtium, is commonly used as a companion plant in many garden displays. However, you should also consider growing this colourful climber in your vegetable patches too. Nasturtiums not only look lovely when planted in between rows of peppers, cucumber and leafy greens, but they can also act as a trap crop, luring slugs and snails to protect surrounding crops. I have used this alongside many of my garden plants and it’s quite surprising how quickly the stems and foliage can attract and be covered by aphids. Don’t let this put you off however – surrounding plants are usually completely ignored as this is a prized treat for many garden pests! Hopefully, this list of 15 companion plants for your vegetable garden will have given you enough to work from – there are undoubtedly many more flowers that can add a whole host of benefits! References 1. Abel, A. (2020, May 22). How Permaculture Practices Can Help You Mentally and Physically During Isolation. The Permaculture Research Institute. Retrieved March 15, 2023, from https://www.permaculturenews.org/2020/05/22/how-permaculture-practices-can-help-you-mentally-and-physically-during-isolation/ 2. Wagner, S. (2011). Biological Nitrogen Fixation. The Nature Education Knowledge Project. Retrieved March 15, 2023, from https://www.nature.com/scitable/knowledge/library/biological-nitrogen-fixation-23570419/ 3. Nicole, W. (2015). Pollinator Power: Nutrition Security Benefits of an Ecosystem Service. Environmental Health Perspectives, 123(8), 123–210. https://doi.org/10.1289/ehp.123-a210 4. Carrot Root Fly. (n.d.). Bayer Crop Science UK. Retrieved March 15, 2023, from https://cropscience.bayer.co.uk/threats/pest-and-slugs/carrot-root-fly/ 5. Mathieu, H., & Howatson, S. (2020, June 8). Using clover to drive performance with reduced Nitrogen inputs. AHDB. Retrieved March 15, 2023, from https://ahdb.org.uk/events/using-clover-to-drive-performance-with-reduced-nitrogen-inputs 6. Diagnosing potassium deficiency in field peas. (2015, May 13). Department of Primary Industries and Regional Development: Agriculture and Food. Retrieved March 15, 2023, from https://www.agric.wa.gov.au/mycrop/diagnosing-potassium-deficiency-field-peas 7. Nair, A., & Mauch, T. (2022, January 31). Attract Beneficial Insects by Growing Sweet Alyssum. Iowa State University: Extension and Outreach. Retrieved March 15, 2023, from https://www.extension.iastate.edu/news/attract-beneficial-insects-growing-sweet-alyssum
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40 Daisy-Like Flowers With Growing Tips From RHS Gold Medalist Juliet Sargeant
IN THIS GUIDE 1) Daisy 2) African Daisy 3) Marguerite 4) Chamomile 5) Black-Eyed Susan 6) Hilton Daisy 7) Autumn Sneezeweed 8) Poached Egg Flower 9) Livingstone Daisy 10) Indian Chrysanthemum 11) Baby Sun Rose 12) Cupid’s Dart ‘Alba’ 13) Crown Daisy 14) Beach Aster 15) Firewheel 16) Daisy Bush 17) Cooper’s Ice Plant 18) Chocolate Daisy 19) Tickseed ‘Grandiflora’ 20) Compass Plant 21) Gazania 22) Zinnia ‘Profusion White’ 23) Mexican Flame Vine 24) Painted Daisy 25) Great Leopard’s Bane 26) Butter Daisy 27) Gaillardia 28) Shasta Daisy 29) Pot Marigold 30) Blackfoot Daisy 31) Mexican Sunflower 32) Michaelmas Daisy 33) Sunflower ‘Lemon Queen’ 34) Ox-Eye Daisy 35) Gerbera Daisy 36) Dyer’s Tickseed 37) Purple Coneflower 38) Curly Leaf Daisy 39) African Daisy ‘Flame’ 40) Florist’s Cineraria Daisies are beautiful flowers that are easily recognisable here in the UK and can bring a simple touch of colour to any garden display. Typically, daisies are made up of a central, usually colourful, disk that is surrounded by long, thin petals that often come in layers. There are lots of plants that produce flowers that resemble daisies, so if you are looking specifically for a daisy-like bloom (perhaps in a more unusual colour or shape) you’ve come to the right place. “Pollinators such as bees and butterflies are attracted to these open-structured flowers where plenty of nectar is available to them,” shares Roy Nicol, a Master Horticulturist. We share 40 plants with daisy-like flowers that you can grow in your garden (or in the home for some of our more tender plant types). 1) Daisy BOTANICAL NAME: Bellis perennis HARDINESS RATING: H7 PLANT TYPE: perennial FLOWERS: yellow, white and pink FLOWERING SEASON(S): spring / summer SIZE: 0-0.1m in height, 0-0.1m spread I had to start the list with the daisy most commonly found here in the UK. Bellis perennis is a fully-hardy perennial that is often found in fields or woodland areas and bears the classic daisy shape that the rest of the plants in this guide emulate. This small plant is unfussy and can be grown in most conditions, but will look best in a wildflower meadow. 2) African Daisy BOTANICAL NAME: Osteospermum jucundum HARDINESS RATING: H3 PLANT TYPE: perennial FLOWERS: purple FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer / autumn SIZE: 0.1-0.5m in height, 0.5-1m spread African daisies produce short-lived flowers in many colours throughout summer and autumn and have a spreading habit, growing up to 1m wide with half the height. These perennials are frost-tender, so make sure to provide some winter protection over the colder months, such as a mulch or horticultural fleece. 3) Marguerite BOTANICAL NAME: Argyranthemum frutescens HARDINESS RATING: H2 PLANT TYPE: perennial / sub-shrub FLOWERS: yellow, pink and white FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer SIZE: 0.5-1m in height, 0.5-1m spread With 2cm wide blooms that come in shades of pink and white, marguerite is an evergreen perennial that is best suited for container cultivation, so it can be moved to a warmer location during the winter. It bears striking similarities to a colourful Chrysanthemum, which is perhaps why members of this plant family are sometimes categorised in the same genus. 4) Chamomile BOTANICAL NAME: Chamaemelum nobile HARDINESS RATING: H7 PLANT TYPE: herb / perennial FLOWERS: white and yellow FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer SIZE: 0.1-0.5m in height, 0.1-0.5m spread Chamomile is one of my favourite daisy-like flowers as it is a low-maintenance perennial that is a great companion plant for lots of shrubs, trees and vegetables. Plant this deciduous herb in your vegetable gardens to act as a ground cover plant and to also repel pests by attracting beneficial pollinators. “The non-flowering cultivar Chamaemelum nobile ‘Treneague’ can be used to create a chamomile lawn where the soil is light, which is a great alternative to grass where foot traffic is low,” says Roy. 5) Black-Eyed Susan BOTANICAL NAME: Rudbeckia fulgida HARDINESS RATING: H6 PLANT TYPE: perennial FLOWERS: gold, brown and yellow FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer / autumn SIZE: 0.5-1m in height, 0.5-1m spread Producing stunning yellow florets and brown-black centres, black-eyed Susan looks like an eccentric sunflower and is a hardy perennial that can grow up to 1m tall and wide. You can plant rudbeckia in your flower borders and beds for a splash of colour, or grow this perennial in a wildflower meadow for a more natural display. 6) Hilton Daisy BOTANICAL NAME: Gerbera aurantiaca HARDINESS RATING: H3 PLANT TYPE: perennial / annual FLOWERS: red, orange, white and yellow FLOWERING SEASON(S): spring / summer / autumn SIZE: 0.5-1m in height, 0.5-1m spread The Hilton Daisy is a rare short-lived perennial that is usually grown for its bright red flowers that bloom from spring to autumn. This plant is often used as a cut flower in bouquets or indoor displays around the home. 7) Autumn Sneezeweed BOTANICAL NAME: Helenium autumnale HARDINESS RATING: H7 PLANT TYPE: perennial FLOWERS: brown and yellow FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer / autumn SIZE: 1-1.5m in height, 0.1-0.5m spread Growing on stems up to 1.5m high that are covered with thin green leaves, Autumn Sneezeweed bears flowers with frilly brown centres that are surrounded by yellowy-orange petals. This plant works well in a wildlife-friendly garden, as its open blooms are a delight for pollinators – and provide pollen late in the season when much else has died away. “An excellent cultivar used extensively in gardens is Helenium ‘Moerheim Beauty’ which has rich copper-red flowers from mid to late summer,” Roy adds. 8) Poached Egg Flower BOTANICAL NAME: Limnanthes douglasii HARDINESS RATING: H5 PLANT TYPE: annual FLOWERS: yellow and white FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer / autumn SIZE: 0.1-0.5m in height, 0.1-0.5m spread Limnanthes douglasii, more commonly referred to as the poached egg flower, is a unique daisy-like annual that has white-tipped petals and yellow centres, giving it the appearance of – you guessed it – a poached egg. As a deserving recipient of the RHS Award of Garden Merit, this plant is a delight to grow in UK gardens and would be a lovely addition to flower borders or beds. 9) Livingstone Daisy BOTANICAL NAME: CLERETUM BELLIDIFORME HARDINESS RATING: H3 PLANT TYPE: succulent / annual FLOWERS: purple, yellow, pink, orange and cream FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer SIZE: 0-0.1m in height, 0.1-0.5m spread Although technically a succulent (you can tell by its thick waxy leaves) Cleretum bellidiforme produces colourful daisies that mirror those of any usual garden flower. You can grow this plant indoors, but I’d recommend planting it outside with other summer-flowering annuals. 10) Indian Chrysanthemum BOTANICAL NAME: Chrysanthemum indicum HARDINESS RATING: H4 PLANT TYPE: perennial FLOWERS: yellow FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer / autumn SIZE: 0.5-1m in height, 0.5-1m spread The Indian chrysanthemum is a half-hardy perennial which grows best in any sheltered location that receives plenty of sun. These stand-out yellow blooms are highly fragrant and would work well planted near doors or on the edge of garden paths so you can really appreciate the lemony aroma during its flowering seasons. “In colder parts of the UK, these plants can be overwintered by lifting them in the late autumn and storing the crowns in a frost-free location in slightly damp compost,” says Roy. “In the spring, when brought into the warmth, they will re-shoot, at which point careful watering can be started.” 11) Baby Sun Rose BOTANICAL NAME: Aptenia cordifolia HARDINESS RATING: H2 PLANT TYPE: succulent / houseplant FLOWERS: pink, red and purple FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer / autumn SIZE: 0-0.1m in height, 0.1-0.5m spread Baby sun rose bears pink, red and purple flowers during summer and autumn. Another succulent, this trailing frost-tender evergreen is best grown in a container indoors in well-draining compost with added grit where it can benefit from its preferred conditions year-round. Place it outdoors in the summer to make the most of the abundance of sunshine. 12) Cupid’s Dart ‘Alba’ BOTANICAL NAME: Catananche caerulea ‘Alba’ HARDINESS RATING: H5 PLANT TYPE: perennial FLOWERS: white FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer / autumn SIZE: 0.5-1m in height, 0.1-0.5m spread With layered white petals that are tinged with purple towards the centre, cupid’s dart ‘Alba’ offers unusual-looking flowers that will bring something different to your garden beds. You can grow ‘Alba’ in a gravel or rock garden – or use the cut flowers as a living display in your home. “This short-lived perennial enjoys sunny positions in well-drained light soils,” explains Roy. 13) Crown Daisy BOTANICAL NAME: Glebionis coronaria HARDINESS RATING: H7 PLANT TYPE: annual FLOWERS: yellow, brown and white FLOWERING SEASON(S): spring / summer SIZE: 0.5-1m in height, 0.1-0.5m spread Crown daisies are another plant that looks like the inside of a recently cracked boiled egg, but these fully hardy plants can also have dark brown centres and grow on stems that can reach 1m tall. These delightful daisy-like blooms would work well in an annual wildflower display and will pair nicely with some other hardy annuals in this list. 14) Beach Aster BOTANICAL NAME: Erigeron glaucus HARDINESS RATING: H5 PLANT TYPE: perennial FLOWERS: purple and yellow FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer SIZE: 0.2m in height, 0.3m spread Erigeron glaucus, or beach asters, are hardy perennials with evergreen foliage and flowers that are great for pollinators. With an abundance of frilly purple blooms that appear in summer, this plant would look great in a low-growing garden border or used as an edging plant in a sunny position in light soil. 15) Firewheel BOTANICAL NAME: Gaillardia pulchella HARDINESS RATING: H4 PLANT TYPE: annual FLOWERS: red and yellow FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer and autumn SIZE: 0.1-0.5m in height, 0.1-0.5m spread Producing fiery flowers with red petals that are tipped in yellow, Gaillardia pulchella, also known as Firewheel, is aptly named. Usually grown as an annual here in the UK, this long-flowering plant can be a great choice for gardens that do not have as much space for planting, as these bright blooms can also work well as a stand-alone plant in a very small area. Make sure to give them plenty of sun in free-draining soil if you’d like them to flower to their full potential. 16) Daisy Bush BOTANICAL NAME: Olearia x MOLLIS HARDINESS RATING: H4 PLANT TYPE: shrub FLOWERS: white FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer SIZE: 1.5-2.5m in height, 2.5-4m spread The daisy bush is slightly different to the other plants featured in this list. It features clusters of tiny, white daisy-like flowers growing from woody stems – reaching up to 2.5m in height and almost double the width. The flowers appear in bunches during the summer months. This evergreen shrub can be used at the back of garden beds or for hedging and natural screening. “I’m growing Olearia at the moment, which is a great evergreen shrub that has a pink or white flower,” shares Garden Designer Juliet Sargeant. “It’s a Mediterranean plant that you can’t really grow in the colder areas of the UK, but I live by the coast down south and it’s proving to be a really useful plant that I would definitely recommend if you can grow it.” 17) Cooper’s Ice Plant BOTANICAL NAME: Delosperma cooperi HARDINESS RATING: H4 PLANT TYPE: succulent / houseplant FLOWERS: pink, red and purple FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer SIZE: 0-0.1m in height, 0.5-1m spread Although it is commonly grown as a houseplant, I think cooper’s ice plant would be a great choice for a dry gravel garden or rockery, as it needs a sandy growing medium that does not retain moisture. As long as this plant is grown in a sheltered position in full sun, you will be able to enjoy its colourful summer blooms for years to come. 18) Chocolate Daisy BOTANICAL NAME: Berlandiera lyrata HARDINESS RATING: H5 PLANT TYPE: perennial FLOWERS: yellow FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer SIZE: 0.1-0.5m in height, 0.1-0.5m spread The chocolate daisy (so-named as its green-grey foliage smells of chocolate) is a yellow flowering perennial that has a darker centre and a circle of red and brown stamina that line the edge of its centre. This rare flower is popular with butterflies and will make a great choice in a meadow planting scheme. 19) Tickseed ‘Grandiflora’ BOTANICAL NAME: Coreopsis verticillata ‘Grandiflora’ HARDINESS RATING: H5 PLANT TYPE: perennial FLOWERS: yellow FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer / autumn SIZE: 0.5-1m in height, 0.1-0.5m spread Another daisy-looking perennial with yellow flowers, tickseed ‘Grandiflora’ makes a lovely addition to many garden displays. Flowering throughout summer and into autumn and growing to around 1m in height with half the spread, I would plant this tickseed in garden planters or raised beds. 20) Compass Plant BOTANICAL NAME: Silphium laciniatum HARDINESS RATING: H7 PLANT TYPE: perennial FLOWERS: yellow FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer / autumn SIZE: 2.5-4m in height, 0.5-1m spread Growing up to 4m tall, the thick sturdy stems of the compass plant display large yellow daises that have more than a passing resemblance to some sunflower varieties. This hardy perennial is tall and can be grown against a wall or trellis as the backdrop to a garden bed, but avoid acidic soils. 21) Gazania BOTANICAL NAME: Gazania linearis HARDINESS RATING: H2 PLANT TYPE: perennial FLOWERS: orange, red and yellow FLOWERING SEASON(S): spring / summer SIZE: 0.1-0.5m in height, 0.1-0.5m spread Gazania linearis produces stunning daisy-like blooms in shades of orange, red and yellow throughout spring and summer and is guaranteed to liven up any garden display. As a frost-tender perennial, make sure you are protecting your gazania over the colder months. I always think container growing for less hardy plants like gazania is the way to go, as you can then move the pot indoors or to a warmer location over winter. “Last autumn I dug up a whole group of Gazanias from a border and after repotting, overwintered them in a light frost-free position,” shares Roy. “In the late spring, they were settled back into the border and flowering well by early summer.” 22) Zinnia ‘Profusion White’ BOTANICAL NAME: Zinnia ‘Profusion White’ HARDINESS RATING: H2 PLANT TYPE: annual FLOWERS: yellow and gold FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer / autumn SIZE: 0.1-0.5m in height, 0.1-0.5m spread This white zinnia variety opens its white petals to reveal a gold centre, blooming throughout summer and right up until late autumn. ‘Profusion White’ is another H2 hardy plant, but as it is usually grown as an annual here in the UK, you can grow it in your mixed bedding with other short-lived flowers. This plant holds the RHS Award of Garden Merit (AGM), meaning it has been proven to perform reliably in gardens. 23) Mexican Flame Vine BOTANICAL NAME: PSEUDOGYNOXYS CHENOPODIOIDES HARDINESS RATING: H1C PLANT TYPE: shrub / climber / houseplant FLOWERS: orange and red FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer SIZE: 4-8m in height, 1.5-2.5m spread Mexican flame vine is a shrub that will do best when grown in a heated greenhouse or as a houseplant. With bright orange blooms and fragrant flowers, this shrubby climber will need to be kept in check as it can reach staggering heights if it is not pruned back. It can also be grown to cascade down walls where an opportunity exists to plant from above. Grow Mexican flame vine in a loamy potting medium with access to bright and direct sunlight. 24) Painted Daisy BOTANICAL NAME: Tanacetum coccineum HARDINESS RATING: H7 PLANT TYPE: perennial FLOWERS: pink, yellow, white and red FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer SIZE: 0.5-1m in height, 0.1-0.5m spread This gorgeous perennial bears bright colourful daisies that are usually pink or red with yellow centres on stems that grow up to 1m tall. Painted daisies are easy to grow and have bushy foliage, making them great for planting in garden beds or borders. They also work great as a cut flower placed in a vase indoors. 25) Great Leopard’s Bane BOTANICAL NAME: Doronicum pardalianches HARDINESS RATING: H5 PLANT TYPE: perennial FLOWERS: yellow FLOWERING SEASON(S): spring SIZE: 0.5-1m in height, 0.5-1m spread Often found in woodland areas due to its ability to spread underground by its tuberous runners and preference for partial shade, rhizomatous great leopard’s bane will need to be kept in check to prevent it from spreading horizontally. Some gardeners consider it bordering on invasive, so this might be a plant like bamboo that is better grown in containers to restrict its roots. However, if you have the time and patience, its tall, yellow, daisy-like flowers will brighten up your garden in spring and can be a great cut flower for displays inside the home. 26) Butter Daisy BOTANICAL NAME: Melampodium divaricatum HARDINESS RATING: H7 PLANT TYPE: annual FLOWERS: yellow FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer SIZE: 0.1-0.5m in height, 0.1-0.5m spread The butter daisy is a fully hardy annual that is great for growing in lawns or wildflower meadows with other low-maintenance plants. It is characterised by its small, deep yellow flowers that arrive on long thin stems and its ovate green leaves. Although this diminutive flower might not be a show-stopper, it’s perfect for adding a touch of colour to underserviced areas of your garden. 27) Gaillardia BOTANICAL NAME: Gaillardia aristata HARDINESS RATING: H4 PLANT TYPE: perennial FLOWERS: red and yellow FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer / autumn SIZE: 0.5-1m in height, 0.5-1m spread Gaillardia aristata, more often called the common gaillardia, is a half-hardy perennial with many cultivars producing an abundance of large flower heads with red petals that are tipped with a bright yellow. Grow this plant in a spot that gets plenty of sun and make sure it never sits in moist soil for too long, as gaillardia prefers to grow in soil that is always well-drained. “From the North American prairies, this plant looks great when grown with tall grasses such as Calamagrostis behind it and is drought tolerant, making it useful in planting schemes in sunny positions with poor soil,” says Roy. 28) Shasta Daisy BOTANICAL NAME: Leucanthemum × superbum HARDINESS RATING: H5 PLANT TYPE: perennial FLOWERS: white and yellow FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer / autumn SIZE: 0.5-1m in height, 0.5-1m spread Probably one of the more well-known daisy-type varieties, the Shasta daisy produces showy white flowers with yellow centres on tall, sturdy stems. As long as this perennial is planted in a position where it will be sheltered from any strong winds, it will be relatively easy to grow and won’t require much additional care once established. 29) Pot Marigold BOTANICAL NAME: Calendula officinalis HARDINESS RATING: H5 PLANT TYPE: annual / biennial FLOWERS: orange FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer / autumn SIZE: 0.1-0.5m in height, 0.1-0.5m spread Calendula officinalis, or pot marigold, is beloved by gardeners because of its bright orange blooms and its low-maintenance tendencies. This annual grows well in many different garden displays, but if you grow fruit or vegetables in your beds, I’d recommend planting some pot marigolds nearby, as they are first-rate companion plants. They can act as a trap for slugs and snails and can also attract beneficial pollinators to your veg patches. “If drought-stressed, Calendula have a tendency to suffer from powdery mildew, so I’d recommend keeping them watered during dry spells,” shares Roy. 30) Blackfoot Daisy BOTANICAL NAME: Melampodium leucanthum HARDINESS RATING: H6 PLANT TYPE: perennial FLOWERS: white and yellow FLOWERING SEASON(S): spring / summer / autumn SIZE: 0.1-0.5m in height, 0.5-1m spread From the same genus as the butter daisy, this perennial is known for its long-lasting white blooms that usually flower from early April to late September. Blackfoot daisy is a great option for dry or gravel gardens as it requires well-drained soil. 31) Mexican Sunflower BOTANICAL NAME: Tithonia ROTUNDIFOLIA HARDINESS RATING: H2 PLANT TYPE: annual FLOWERS: orange FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer / autumn SIZE: 1.5-2m in height, 0.1-0.5m spread The Mexican sunflower features long, lobed petals with vertical indents and a deep orange hue. Each plant will yield tens of flowers – each up to 8cm in diameter on stems up to 2m tall. Tithonia rotundifolia will thrive if planted in a protected site with plenty of sun. “The stand-out cultivar to look for in the seed catalogue is T. rotundifolia ‘Torch’,” shares Roy. “Regular deadheading will ensure flowering right through into November until the first frosts for this cultivar.” 32) Michaelmas Daisy BOTANICAL NAME: Symphyotrichum × salignum HARDINESS RATING: H7 PLANT TYPE: perennial FLOWERS: white and yellow FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer / autumn SIZE: 1-1.5m in height, 0.5-1m spread Symphyotrichum × salignum, more commonly referred to as the Michaelmas Daisy, is a fully hardy perennial with white and yellow daisy-like flowers that bloom from late May until the start of September. It is part of the aster family, and will look best in a wildflower meadow with other low-maintenance perennials. Just make sure it is not grown in acidic soil – this plant cannot tolerate pH levels lower than 4. 33) Sunflower ‘Lemon Queen’ BOTANICAL NAME: HELIANTHUS ‘LEMON QUEEN’ HARDINESS RATING: H4 PLANT TYPE: perennial FLOWERS: yellow FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer / autumn SIZE: 1.5-2.5m in height, 0.5-1m spread A recipient of the RHS Award of Garden Merit, H. ‘Lemon Queen’ is truly a delight for both the gardeners who grow it and for the pollinators who frequent its flowers during summer. With lemony-yellow flowers growing on tall stems which will require staking in more exposed positions, this hardy perennial will make a great addition at the back of a perennial border as long as it is not grown in acidic conditions. 34) Ox-Eye Daisy BOTANICAL NAME: Leucanthemum vulgare HARDINESS RATING: H7 PLANT TYPE: perennial FLOWERS: white and yellow FLOWERING SEASON(S): spring / summer SIZE: 0.5-1m in height, 0.1-0.5m spread Ox-eye daisies are as similar to the real thing as you can get. These low-maintenance perennials produce white and yellow blooms throughout spring and summer and are great plants for filling low-effort meadow areas and as low-growing border plants for paths and edging. 35) Gerbera Daisy BOTANICAL NAME: Gerbera ‘GARVINEA SWEET SUNSET’ HARDINESS RATING: H3 PLANT TYPE: perennial FLOWERS: varies FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer / autumn SIZE: 0.1-0.5m in height, 0.1-0.5m spread Gerberas are popular perennials with a number of cultivars in the ‘Garvinea’, ‘Garvinea Sweet Series’ or ‘Everlast Series’ in eye-catching oranges, reds and yellows which bloom through the summer into the autumn. As they are hardy to -5°C, they will only survive in milder parts of the UK in well-drained soil. G. jamesonii is a tender houseplant with a hardiness rating of H1C, blooming in the same range of colours and can be grown inside on a sunny windowsill. 36) Dyer’s Tickseed BOTANICAL NAME: Coreopsis tinctoria HARDINESS RATING: H6 PLANT TYPE: annual FLOWERS: red and yellow FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer / autumn SIZE: 0.5-1m in height, 0.1-0.5m spread An easy-to-grow annual, dyer’s tickseed produces red and yellow flowers in summer and autumn that are ideal drought-tolerant plants, as they grow best in a well-drained medium. Wherever you choose to grow Coreopsis tinctoria, make sure it is planted in a spot where it will get lots of sun throughout the day. 37) Purple Coneflower BOTANICAL NAME: Echinacea purpurea HARDINESS RATING: H5 PLANT TYPE: perennial FLOWERS: brown, pink and purple FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer / autumn SIZE: 1-1.5m in height, 0.1-0.5m spread Echinacea purpurea, or the purple coneflower, is a vivid flowering plant that grows up to 1.5m in height and is a popular garden flower here in the UK. This popular daisy-like perennial is a fantastic choice for pollinators in a wildlife-friendly garden and also for more natural planting schemes where it can grow alongside other unfussy summer-flowering plants. 38) Curly Leaf Daisy BOTANICAL NAME: Arctotis revoluta HARDINESS RATING: H5 PLANT TYPE: shrub FLOWERS: yellow, white and orange FLOWERING SEASON(S): spring / summer / autumn SIZE: 0.5-1m in height, 0.5-1m spread The curly-leaf daisy is a small, low-growing shrub that produces flowers with long yellow petals and centres. Unsurprisingly, this plant also bears curly kale-like leaves that are often covered in a layer of fine hair. Although it’s not typically grown here in the UK, Arctotis revoluta is relatively easy to grow here and would make a fine addition to any garden bed or border. 39) African Daisy ‘Flame’ BOTANICAL NAME: Arctotis × hybrida hort. ‘Flame’ HARDINESS RATING: H2 PLANT TYPE: perennial FLOWERS: orange and red FLOWERING SEASON(S): summer / autumn SIZE: 0.1-0.5m in height, 0.1-0.5m spread With bright fiery blooms that appear in early summer and last for months on end, African daisy ‘flame’ is an astute choice for any garden. Although ‘Flame’ is H2 hardy, if it is given the right protection over winter it can flower for many years. Grow in a site in full sun with a well-drained growing medium in order to achieve the best results. 40) Florist’s Cineraria BOTANICAL NAME: Pericallis × hybrida HARDINESS RATING: H1C PLANT TYPE: perennial / annual / houseplant FLOWERS: red, blue, white, purple and pink FLOWERING SEASON(S): winter / spring SIZE: 0.5-1m in height, 0.5-1m spread Finishing this list is a stunning houseplant that is easy enough to grow indoors for even the most novice gardener. Florist’s Cineraria produce beautiful bicoloured flowers that gradate with a range of different colours from purple to red, to blue and white. When grown in a container, you can place this houseplant outdoors in late spring.
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From Overwatering To A Lack Of Light: The Typical Reasons For Yellowing Leaves On Yucca
IN THIS GUIDE 1) Overwatering 2) A Lack Of Light 3) Pests 4) Old Age If there was ever a list of plants for a neglectful gardener the yucca plant would probably be at the top. This plant is incredibly low maintenance and thrives when watered very sparingly. In fact, if you notice something amiss with your yucca, it’s probably because you are actually doing too much! If you aren’t blessed with green fingers and are absent-minded about watering and caring for your houseplants, this resilient plant is definitely for you. Yucca plants grow slowly and can grow as high as 10m in height, producing impressive green sword-like leaves that can be a real showstopper. One of the first signs that something is wrong with your yucca plant is if you notice those gorgeous green leaves starting to turn yellow. In this article, we will look at all the reasons why your yucca plant is yellowing and what you can do to fix it. 1) Overwatering Perhaps the most common cause of yellow leaves on yucca plants is down to overwatering. Watering your plants too much or too often will lead to root rot. Be sure to plant your yucca in sandy, well-draining soil so that the water drains easily and the soil doesn’t stay wet for too long. You should also avoid using organic mulch so excess moisture is not retained at the roots. 2) A Lack Of Light Another common reason for a yellowing yucca is insufficient light. Yuccas are used to hot, dry, and even arid conditions in full sunlight, so you really need to find a spot where your plant can benefit from as much light as possible. Ideally, your yucca should be placed in direct sunlight where it can receive light all day long. South-facing windows will usually be best for this. “If planting on a south-facing windowsill, make sure to monitor compost moisture regularly as in hot weather it may dry out very quickly,” says Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly. “Temperatures will fluctuate rapidly, so keep an eye on your Yucca when first putting it in position and move it to a west or east-facing window if leaves start to yellow as this may provide still bright but more stable conditions. “The RHS recommends a south-facing window in winter and east or west facing windows in summer.” 3) Pests Yucca plants are actually usually pretty pest-free, however, you may occasionally encounter spider mites which will cause the leaves to yellow. Thankfully, spider mites are easy to get rid of. Simply wipe down the leaves every couple of days with a wet cloth and the problematic pests should disappear. Alternatively, you can pop the plant under a shower or sink to wash the bugs away. 4) Old Age With age, the yucca’s leaves may begin to yellow. All you need to do is gently remove the yellowing leaves, making way for fresh new green ones to appear. As you can see, there are plenty of solutions for yellowing yuccas and, by following this advice, you will be able to enjoy your happy and healthy yucca for many years.
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Don't Overwater Yucca: 'Remember These Species Are Adapted To Arid Environments'
IN THIS GUIDE Spring & Summer Watering Autumn & Winter Watering Overwatering References Yucca is an evergreen shrub that is part of the asparagus family. This plant is native to parts of North America, Mexico as well as Central and South America and is used to hot, dry conditions.1 For this reason, yucca plants will not always survive British winters and are therefore best grown as indoor plants. Yucca is fairly drought resistant, but it is important you understand when to water and how often and how much in order to get the most out of this plant. Spring & Summer Watering Yucca will complete the majority of its growth in the spring and summer months and watering during this time should be regular but sparing. Overwatering can drown the plant’s roots which can ultimately kill the plant off. I would recommend watering your yucca plant moderately every 2-3 days, only watering again when the topsoil has completely dried. “Remember that Yucca species are adapted to arid environments and can cope with dry conditions,” shares Colin Skelly, a Master Horticulturist. “That doesn’t mean that they’ll tolerate prolonged periods without water without wilting or yellowing or browning of leaves. To keep them looking good you’ll need to keep an eye on the moisture in the top few centimetres of compost.” I’d also recommend adding a liquid fertiliser every couple of weeks, making sure you moisten the soil before applying it. Autumn & Winter Watering During the autumn and winter months, yucca plants require a lot less water. You should only need to water your yucca 1-2 times a month and should only do so if the top 3cm of soil is completely dry. When watering, do so to moisten the entire soil clump. If your yucca plant is placed in full sunlight, it may require slightly more frequent watering. Likewise, if it is in a shadier spot it will require a bit less. From October to April you should refrain from adding fertiliser. Overwatering The last thing you want to do is overwater your yucca plant. If you notice yellow leaves, root rot or if the trunk feels spongy to the touch, then you have probably watered your yucca too much. If you manage to catch this problem in the early stages then be sure to cut your watering right back and allow the soil to completely dry out. If it has got as far as root rot, then the only way to try and save the plant is by removing the plant from the pot, giving the roots a good wash until the soil is gone and then removing the damaged roots with a sterilised set of shears, leaving only the healthy roots behind. You can then repot the plant in a sterile plant pot with fresh, well-draining soil and keep all your fingers and toes crossed! References 1. Yucca filamentosa. (n.d.). Lady Bird Johnson Wildflower Center – the University of Texas at Austin. Retrieved March 27, 2023, from https://www.wildflower.org/plants/result.php?id_plant=YUFI
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Yucca Are Generally Trouble-Free, But Brown Spots Might Need Further Investigation
IN THIS GUIDE 1) Overwatering 2) Fluoride Or Salt Toxicity 3) Diseases & Pests Hardy yuccas are famous for their easy-going temperament and ability to withstand the harshest conditions. “Generally Yuccas are very versatile plants, and apart from frost damage in very cold winters, the hardy species rarely suffer plant health problems,” says Master Horticulturist Peter Lickorish. However, that doesn’t mean that they’re completely indestructible and you may find your plant is suffering from one or more maladies. One of the most common and clearest symptoms that all is not well with a yucca is the appearance of brown spots on its leaves, browning at its extremities or a general brown or yellow hue to the foliage. If you notice such signs on your plant, it’s a good idea to investigate the issue further and take remedial action before it worsens. Here are some of the likeliest causes of discolouration, along with some pointers on how to address them. 1) Overwatering Given that their natural habitat is normally a desert, it’s understandable that yuccas don’t take too kindly to overwatering. They’re considered to be succulent plants, which means they can store water in their foliage, so it’s highly unlikely that you’ll be underwatering them. Overwatering, on the other hand, is very easily done and will drown the plant’s roots, leading to a fungal infection which can manifest itself in the shape of brown spots. To check your yucca’s root health, gently unearth them. They should be white and firm to the touch. If they’re black, discoloured or squishy, you should carefully cut away the damaged parts and repot the remainder of the plant in a new container with good draining soil. In the future, only water when the top 5cm of the soil is dry. 2) Fluoride Or Salt Toxicity If the water with which you irrigate your yuccas has an excess of fluoride, it can cause their leaves to develop brown tips. These can initially appear as small brown spots on the fringes of the leaf, but will soon take over the whole extremity. Although this is not actually detrimental to the plant’s health, fluoride toxicity can be unsightly, but a simple switch to distilled water and the problem will resolve itself in time. Salty water, however, can be a death sentence for yucca plants. If the soil in your garden has high salinity or you water the plant using a softener, the yucca may develop brown spots, tips or stunted growth. In serious cases, a white crust may appear atop the soil. You should immediately attempt to flush the soil out using water free from salt but it’s possible that the plant may be too far gone to save. 3) Diseases & Pests Fungal spores of Coniothyrium concentricum can spread quickly from leaf to leaf and manifest themselves in the shape of brown spots with a yellow halo, though they rarely take over a whole leaf. This contrasts with the more general browning often resulting from overwatering. Nonetheless, you must take prompt action to prevent them from propagating further. To do so cut back damaged leaves to the stem and clear any fallen leaves from the base of the plant. Preventing water from sitting on the leaves and ensuring good drainage is key too. Potted outdoor plants could be moved to a porch, for example. Meanwhile, pests are another problem for yucca plants, especially mealy bugs. Although these normally leave behind white spots rather than brown ones, the latter could indicate an infestation as well. Treat them by removing the damaged leaves and spraying the plant with plant oils.
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Pruning Yucca Also Offers An Opportunity To Propagate New Plants - Gardeners Share How
IN THIS GUIDE Pruning Clump-Forming Types Pruning Trunk-Forming Types Yuccas are interesting succulent plants which come in a range of different varieties. Tender types are often grown as houseplants, while hardy types can be grown outside in a suitably free-draining and mild spot. There are two main reasons why you might want to prune your yucca plant. The first might be to gain new yucca plants by propagating an existing yucca whilst the second is to reduce the size of a plant that has grown too large for its location. Read on to understand how to prune the two different types of yucca. Difficulty Medium Equipment Required Gloves and a spade When To Prune March-April Pruning Clump-Forming Types Clump-forming yuccas are most commonly propagated by dividing offsets from a parent plant. To do so: Look carefully around the base of the plant for small suckers. Carefully move aside the soil or growing medium to expose the rhizome that links it to the parent plant. Cut through this rhizome with a sharp knife. Place the offset to dry for a couple of days. Once it is dry, place it in a propagator or cover it and place it out of direct sunlight but in a warm, bright location. Wait for the offset to root. Pot on or plant out the new yucca plants. Pruning Trunk-Forming Types If you have a trunk-forming yucca, these can grow extremely tall. If you have one which has grown too large for its location, you might simply wish to transplant it to a new spot, but you can also take the slightly risky option and prune the plant dramatically by cutting off the top to the desired height, removing half of the plant. “I would perform this task in early spring to optimise the possibility of the stem regeneration,” says Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly. “The pruned top stems can be planted in a semi-shady spot outside or into pots in a semi-shaded position, depending on size.” If the plant is healthy and happy, it should sprout new growth. Mulching around the base of the plant with organic matter should help increase the chances of a successful recovery. You can also take the top half of the yucca and treat it like a massive cutting by replanting it, and with careful tending, it may develop new roots and resume its growth. However, this is a job best not attempted by beginners and you should note that there are no guarantees that the original plant that you have divided will recover, and if it does, it may not be the most attractive specimen for several years.
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Preventing Root Rot In Yucca: Start With The Conditions In The Soil And Improve Drainage
IN THIS GUIDE Identifying Root Rot Preventing Root Rot In The Ground Preventing Root Rot In Pots Attempting Recovery When growing yucca, root rot is one of the most common problems you might encounter. As the name suggests, this is when the roots begin to decompose and is often caused by the conditions in the soil or growing medium – or fungi. When the roots of a plant decompose, this means that it is unable to obtain the water and nutrients it needs. Though it can be serious, careful planning, correct placement and proper care of your yucca can help you to avoid this issue in the first place, whether you are growing your yucca in a container or in your garden. Even if this problem does occur, you may still be able to nip the problem in the bud and remove the affected roots so that the rest of the plant can recover. Identifying Root Rot Since roots are hidden below the surface of the soil or growing medium, the first signs that root rot may be likely or may already have occurred will be observed in the leaves of the plant. Yellowing, limp leaves can often be a sign that overwatering or waterlogged soil is an issue. Leaves may also turn brown and drop off, as root damage means that the plants cannot take up water as they should. Preventing Root Rot In The Ground If you suspect root rot, think about the environmental conditions and whether these are suited to the type of yucca you are growing. If you are growing yucca in the soil in your garden, the first thing to consider is your soil type. Clay soils are far more prone to waterlogged soil and so may not be ideal for growing these plants. You can take steps to improve the drainage in the area by tackling compaction and by adding plenty of organic matter to the area. If a spot is becoming waterlogged, you can transplant your yucca to a more suitable, free-draining location before root rot becomes a major issue. “If you are limited on your range of site options, first dig in plenty of organic matter and form a raised mound for planting into,” says Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly. “This should give a sufficiently raised free-draining root zone.” Preventing Root Rot In Pots Root rot in yucca plants that are grown in containers is also unfortunately rather common, but you can make this problem much less likely to occur by: Choosing the right container – one which is only a little larger than the existing root system of the plant and which has good drainage. Selecting the right growing medium – ideally a peat-free, loam-based potting mix with 20-30% by volume of horticultural grit added to improve drainage. Watering well – only when the top couple of centimetres of the potting mix are dry. Attempting Recovery If root rot has begun, you may still be able to prevent the problem from getting worse. Lift the plant or take it from its container, identify damaged root sections and cut them off, then transplant or repot your yucca to save it.
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Dying Yucca Plant? Check These 3 Important Factors As Potential Causes
IN THIS GUIDE 1) Assess The Light Levels 2) Check That The Soil Is Not Waterlogged 3) Inspect Water & Humidity Levels Yuccas are generally relatively easy to care for, but, as with most other plants, things can sometimes go wrong. If your yucca plant is not thriving and seems to be dying, it can be disappointing, however, you should not give up on your plant right away. If you act quickly, there could still be time to turn things around and save your plant. If a yucca seems to be dying, this is most commonly down to mistakes you have made or problems with the environmental conditions in which the plant is growing. Reviving a dying yucca plant often involves these three steps: Looking at light levels and addressing any problems. Tackling overwatering or waterlogging issues. Providing sufficient water and humidity where a lack of these is the problem. Read on to find out about each of these in more detail. 1) Assess The Light Levels Yucca growing outside prefer a full sun location, but can sometimes cope with light shade. Those grown indoors need as light and bright a position as possible. Yuccas that do not get enough light can develop weak and spindly growth and leaves may often droop and, if the problem persists, will die and drop off. Moving your plant to a lighter and brighter location will often be sufficient to allow it to recover. “The trick with indoor Yuccas is to find a bright spot but one that doesn’t get baked in a south-facing window,” says Horticultural Consultant Colin Skelly. “An east or west-facing window is usually a good option. A bathroom or kitchen can be a good option if your Yucca is suffering from brown leaf tips due to low humidity.” 2) Check That The Soil Is Not Waterlogged One of the most common problems when growing yuccas are wilting, yellowing and root rotting, often caused by overwatering or poor drainage. Waterlogged soil is one of the biggest issues for these succulent plants. Make sure you only water your yucca plant when the top couple of centimetres of the growing medium is dry in summer, and water even more sparingly in the winter months. If overwatering is the problem, hold off watering for a while and the plant may recover. If drainage is the issue, check carefully to make sure drainage holes are not blocked. Make sure that you are not growing your yucca in too large a container and also that it is not in need of repotting. If the soil is waterlogged, remove the plant from its pot, check for root rot and cut off any affected areas. Repot your Yucca in a new peat-free, loam-based growing medium, making sure that you add grit for drainage. If the problem is not too advanced, your plant may well recover. 3) Inspect Water & Humidity Levels Another water-related issue might be that you have simply not watered your yucca enough. Though these succulents need good drainage, they do also need some water and should not be allowed to dry out entirely. Make sure you are watering when the top couple of centimetres of the growing medium is dry in summer, and when the top 5cm or so of the growing medium is dry in winter. Giving your yucca a good drink (but making sure excess water can drain away freely) will often allow the plant to recover. Misting in dry indoors conditions can help make sure you don’t get brown leaf tips as a result of low humidity.
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